www.cossma.com PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS photo: Graja, Shutterstock.com each other in many ways as building blocks, and also improve their own functional features. They are also extremely versatile in their physical form and characteristics. There are for example volatile substances, liquid emulsifiers, oils, waxes, powders, elastomer gels, resins, macro and micro emulsions and dispersions. New multifunctional ingredients contain, for instance, silicone segments alternating with organic polymers such as Belsil P 1101 from Wacker, which when used for hairstyling offers good elastic curl retention and a silky feel. The product is also highly suitable for long-lasting nail polish. Or a basic silicone framework is combined with the chemistry of alkylglucosides in the Belsil WO 5000 emulsifier, also from Wacker. The hydrophilic moisturiser and skin conditioner EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning in 2013 won a prize for the best new ingredient2. It produces a fresh, silky feel, is suitable for use in make-up, gives body to the formulation and is relatively compatible with organic ingredients. Silicones and their critics I n times of BB and CC creams the “5-in-1” or the “48 hour” claims play a multifunctional and particularly valuable role as ingredients for cosmetics. No other type of compound used in cosmetics is to be found in so many different sectors as organically modified silicones with their tailored, combined effects. Current cosmetic trends at a glance A trend analysis by Dow Corning2 has indicated that the four main themes of Pro Studio (professional applications), Luminance (external glow), Multi-Task and Jelly (new textures) will dominate the market. Long lasting pigment-rich products will be the subject of strong demand as well as those that offer a lighter, even skin tone. Softfocus effects are becoming ever more 26 COSSMA 9 I 2014 important and new, refreshing, fruity textures are on the way. For 2016 BASF sees trends of Colorful Self, Ancient Wisdom (beauty of simplicity), Woman of Power (sensual yet strong) and Third Act (celebrating pro-ageing)3. This will all drive the requirements placed on the performance of cosmetic products. Especially in the make-up sector we can find everything imaginable, from the “nude look” and up to dramatic “metallic looks” and futuristic nail polish colours. In all of these trend-setting sectors special silicones can be successfully applied. The “construction kit” for a large number of jobs The secret of silicones (or to be more precise “polyorganosiloxanes”) is in the fact that they can combine with The fact is that synthetically produced silicones and hybrid materials act as a spur for those seeking something new. Supporters of natural cosmetics nevertheless complain that silicones are in fact artificially produced chemicals. Other people criticise the fact that, unlike hydro-carbon compounds, silicones are not biodegradable, or only their organic components are. Small amounts in the product – but a big impact On the other hand silicones are often used in only small amounts in a formulation, and yet have an important effect on the quality of cosmetic products. Other than the limitations that are part of the chemical structure of silicones, the particularly good surface www.cossma.com PRODUCTION activity and their suppleness and softness can be attributed even to the simplest polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone). What other ingredients can promise to offer a de-foaming, water-repellent action and at the same time a reduction in the tackiness of emulsions, and that calls for a concentration level of only about 1%? What type of emulsifier can, at concentration levels below 3%, best stabilise highly fluid lotions or ensure that a sun cream stays stable at up 60 ºC? Among the organomodified silicones the Abil product range by Evonik, is a very high performance range, as seen in the Abil EM 180. This high molecular W/O silicone emulsifier, for warm and cold processing, is characterised by the fact that it needs only a very low dose and yet covers a very broad range of applications. Even at high temperatures it remains stable and is compatible with electrolytes and active components in the product5. Typical requirements and claims There is a constantly growing market for hair colorants, hair care and styling products calling for modern conditioners and styling aids. And of course it is all about protecting hair that is damaged by styling tongs and UV radiation, aiming to keep its colour, and for unstressed silky hair to hold a nice style. Good wet and dry combing performance, anti-static action of conditioners that do not weigh down the hair, low stickiness, and rapid drying of styling polymers, are all additional requirements that emulsions using amino-functional silicones can fulfil. PEG-free micro-emulsions like Abil ME 45, which contain a hydrophobic silicone quat, are suitable for clear shampoos and conditioners. They are easy to process and remain colourstable. Hair conditioners, hair and body shampoos, leave-in conditioners, styling products and hair colorants are all applications for this product6. Wacker’s macro-emulsion Belsil ADM 6300 E offers improved combability and antistatic effects. Dow Corning’s CE-8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion has an action that makes the hair feel “like a river of silk”, and meets all of the requirements with regard to gloss, colour protection photo: Piotr Marcinski, Shutterstock.com INGREDIENTS and effective conditioning. Silsoft* AX-E from Momentive Performance Materials contains 45% of an emulsified amino-functional silicone and is top of the hair heat protection products7. The specific advantage of silicones in hair and skin care often lies in the fact that not only do they perform the task required, but also they have an immediate positive, sensory feel when applying cosmetic products. Downloads Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00299 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face Optimum pigment distribution, a glowing skin and a silky softness are essential features of facial care products. Silicone waxes like Evonik’s AbilWax range improve the spread of emollients and UV filters, silicone resin fix fragrances on the skin, and silicone elastomer blends offer exciting new textures. At the same time silicones like Dow Corning’s EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic Powder also add a visual soft-focus ef- fect because they can fill wrinkles and also absorb oils and sebum. Sun protection products should have as high a protective factor with the lowest concentration of filters. They should also repel sand and be waterproof, spread well and have a pleasant skin feel. Easy to apply spray products are setting the trend. For sunscreens silicone waxes, emulsifiers and organo- silicone gels, such as Velvesil* 034 from Momentive Performance Materials, are used. Silicones in colour cosmetics play a prominent role because here the demands for colour, hold and skin and eye tolerance are all very high. The products give volume and allow a longlasting effect. For lipsticks Belsil REG 1100 from Wacker is frequently used, whilst silicone resins are used for eye-shadow and mascara. Phenyl-modified silicones such as Dow Corning’s 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid or Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker reduce the white specks and tackiness of AP/deo products. These silicones, thanks to their high refractive index compared with simple dimethicones, give a light gloss and shimmer and can hence be used mainly in colour cosmetics and hair care. Dow Corning are following new ways with silicones in the problem of hair removal, above all in the Indian market2. Thanks to its better spreadability silicone means less product to be applied, and after use there is a velvety light skin feel. The source material can be found on the Internet (see Internet panel) COSSMA 9 I 2014 27 www.cossma.com Current job vacancies Are you a specialist in a certain field? Do you know the cosmetics industry like the back of your hand? Are you a marketing professional, an experienced formulator or a well-rounded technologist? And are you looking for new challenges in your work? Then take a look at the vacancies on this page – maybe is there! There are more interesting jobs advertised on the COSSMA web site at Go to for more information about the job vacancies on this page www.cossma.com/ Jobs Wir sind ein unabhängiges Unternehmen, das sich seit mehr als 20 Jahren mit der Entwicklung kosmetischer Produkte beschäftigt (Schwerpunkt: Reinigung und Pflege von Haut und Haar). Zu unseren Kunden gehören mittelständische Unternehmen mit Marken im gehobenen Preissegment. Als Dienstleister ist die Kundenzufriedenheit der Maßstab unseres täglichen Handelns. Zum nächstmöglichen Termin suchen wir eine/-n ● Ein abgeschlossenes Studium (Diplom / Master) in Biologie, Biochemie, Chemie oder einem ähnlichen Fach ● Idealerweise eine Promotion ● Einige Jahre Berufserfahrung im Bereich Produktentwicklung Kosmetik ● Erfahrung in Mitarbeiterführung ● Gute Englischkenntnisse in Wort und Schrift ● Sicherheit im Umgang mit MS-Office (Word/Excel) ● Die fachliche und disziplinarische Leitung der Produktentwicklung vom Rezepturentwurf bis zur Produktionsreife. ● Sie sind verantwortlich für die termingerechte Realisierung und koordinieren die Abläufe zwischen Entwicklung, Projektmanagement, Materialwirtschaft und Produktion. ● Ihr Fachwissen und Ihre soziale Kompetenz machen Sie zu einem professionellen Ansprechpartner für die Mitarbeiter/-innen aus den Bereichen Produktentwicklung, Projektmanagement und Materialwirtschaft. ● Sie besitzen die Fähigkeit, komplexe wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse in allgemein verständliche Texte umzuwandeln (z.B. für Produkthandbücher, Broschüren). ● Gelegentliche allgemeinverständliche Vorträge (auch in englischer Sprache) vor Außendienstmitarbeitern und Importeuren unserer Kunden runden Ihr Aufgabengebiet ab. ● Regelmäßige Fortbildungen (Fachliteratur, Messebesuche, Kongresse) sind für Sie selbstverständlich. ● Zielorientierte Führung und Weiterentwicklung der unterstellten Mitarbeiter/-innen. ● Gründliche Einarbeitung durch den derzeitigen Stelleninhaber ● Langfristige berufliche Perspektive ● Strukturierte Arbeitsabläufe ● Kooperative Mitarbeiter/-innen ● Modern eingerichteten Arbeitsplatz ● Offene und vertrauensvolle Unternehmenskultur Wenn Sie sich angesprochen fühlen, dann zögern Sie nicht, uns Ihre aussagefähigen Bewerbungsunterlagen zuzusenden mit Angabe des frühestmöglichen Eintrittsdatums und Ihrer Gehaltsvorstellungen. DR. SACHER KOSMETIK GMBH ● z. Hd. Frau Hütsch ● Am Münsterwald 9 ● 52159 Roetgen Tel. (0 24 71) 13 42 0 – 0 ● E-Mail: [email protected] ● www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de good reasons for reading ! Discover today your competitors plans for tomorrow G COSSMA! On-line and right up to date I H COSSMA! Search and download from our archives J K COSSMA! free e-paper COSSMA! Free-of-charge small ads (value 156 Euros) Order today, at www.cossma.com/subscription via the hotline: +49 (0)721 165 131 Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany [email protected] Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103 www.cossma.com E 51 2 8 0 COSMETICS S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y MARKETING All-in-one wrinkle and lip filler Can they compete? A special demand placed on SMEs Silicones as a multitalented cosmetics ingredient Make-up removers: New ways to test their efficacy VIP of the Month Dr. Jan Jänichen of Dr. Straetmans provides an update on the subject of preservatives Focus: Facial care 9 / 2 0 14 www.cossma.com
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