Rennes Atalante - Atalante Saint Malo

Special edition
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
Rennes Atalante
NEWS
Cosmetics I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
Beauty and
innovation: Bretagne,
the winning formula
Adding value to apples
Ma Pomme en Ville launches the production
of apple extracts
B
Project engineer with CBB
Développement
o overcome the problem of a lack of
apple-based cosmetic ingredients
(appleseed oil, single variety organic
apple water) and develop research projects aimed at extracting the active molecules contained in apples (phloridzin,
quercetin, natural waxes on skin etc.),
Ma Pomme en Ville has begun producing
apple extracts. In 2014, Ma Pomme en Ville launched
production of cold-pressed appleseed
oil on an industrial scale, using cider
apples from Bretagne and Normandy.
To do so, the company established one
partnership with the Val de Rance ciderVéronique Brégeon, who creates Ma Pomme en Ville,
making cooperative for sourcing and
with Charles Brégeon, in charge of development, in front
of their range of products based on apples.
another with the NewONat company
specialising in the extraction and purification of plant extracts. The result will be
would become the creams we know today.
Europe’s only appleseed oil and it meets
Numerous ingredients with a range of cosEcocert specifications. Organic production
metic virtues can be extracted from apples.
should be available in a year or two. At the
Some nourish the skin (appleseed oil), others
same time, a programme has been set up to
act as an anti-aging anti-oxidant (polypheenrich the oil with polyphenols; it is scheduled
nols), hydrate and remineralise the skin
for launch in the near future and will produce
(apple water), protect it (apple skin wax),
an anti-aging cosmetic product.
provide anti-glycaemic properties and fight
Set up in 2008, Ma Pomme en Ville markets
orange peel skin (phloridzin). the first cosmetic brand to add value to the
To develop the company further, Ma Pomme
cosmetic properties of apples - IsB... cosmeen Ville also intends to study the production
tics. It should be remembered that apples
of phloridizin from the seed pod and achieve
formed the basis of cosmetics in the Middle
accreditation from the food industry for its
Ages. Ointments were made from apples
appleseed oil.
(“ungentum pomatum”); at a later date, they
www.isb-cosmetics.com
Charles Brégeon
Stay
+33 (0)6 25 55 31 62
connected
[email protected]
to the Rennes Atalante News
Join the 1 350 members of the
Rennes Atalante community on
LinkedIn.
Join us on Twitter Rennes Atalante SP
@hightech_pole.
Upload the free RNS Atalante
mobile application.
View the videos:
Rennes Atalante Web TV,
YouTube and Dailymotion.
© Rennes Atalante
T
© CBB Développement
retagne, a land of innovation situated
between land and sea, enjoys a positive
image, especially when it comes to naturallysourced cosmetic products, and its image is
already being further enhanced by a number of
major players in the plant-based cosmetics sector
such as the Yves Rocher Group, marine therapy
centres and marine cosmetic.
With more than 3% of the nation’s cosmetics
turnover, Bretagne is now one of the main
regions in France active in this sector. A census
currently being undertaken indicates that
Bretagne’s cosmetics sector involves more than
200 stakeholders over Bretagne as a whole and
covers a wide range of businesses from packaging
to end products, including R&D, customisation,
testing or the development of active ingredients.
With an eye to the future and the international market, stakecholders have decided to give
priority to innovation, notably by integrating
biotechnologies into their strategies and adding
value to local biomasses through the dynamic
regional Capbiotek program. In just a few
years, the region has become France’s 3rd largest
biotech region, leading the way in marine
biotechnologies and blue cosmetics. The success
of the Cosm’ing conference that attracts the
top names in biotechnologies and cosmetics to
Saint-Malo, the strong Breton presence in major
professional cosmetics exhibitions, the emergence
of numerous R&D projects involving companies,
Biogenouest network platforms and technical
or research centres and, last but not least, the
development of business incubators specifically
for these sectors in Rennes and Saint-Malo are a
reflection of their dynamism and strength.
Most players in the global cosmetics market
looking for innovative solutions that combine
natural products and
efficacy have understood
Bretagne’s importance and
many of the products being
marketed at the present
time contain a portion of
Breton expertise.
Why not use it in your
products? Innovate by integrating a bit of “Bretagne”
Roland Conanec
in your formulae! Deodorant Efficacy Tests
Green Chemistry
Aroma Consult
Omega Cat System is innovating for the
perfume industry
tests the efficiency of
deodorant products
mega Cat System produces and markets
new environmentally-friendly catalysts for
olefin metathesis, a very common reaction in
R&D chemistry that is also very widely used in
the pharmaceuticals sector (Hep C antiviral)
and in developing added value for agricultural resources (candle wax, lubricants, surfactants). It consists of combining two molecules
to obtain a more complex compound with new
properties.
“The advantage of the reaction is that it
enables us to work more quickly while reducing
pollution. Thanks to this, the number of production stages and the corresponding energy
consumption are both decreased. We also use
fewer solvents and fewer raw materials,” explained Frédéric Caijo, the company’s manager
and founder.
To add value to CNRS / ENSCR patents, Omega
Cat System is currently able to transform terpenes, naturally fragrant substances that can
be used in the perfume industry. The transformation of plant oils into products of interest is
another area being explored by the start-up,
particularly for use in cosmetics. To assist it
in these projects, the company is looking for
industrial partners that could deploy the promising technology. Omega Cat System, set up in
2010 within the Ecole nationale supérieure de
chimie de Rennes (ENSCR, national chemistry
college in Rennes) and the Institut des sciences
A
© Aroma Consult
roma Consult is a olfactometry
laboratory specialised in odour.
Our staff of 8 engineers based in Rennes
(France) daily works for deodorant &
antiperspirant efficacy testing offering
great value during the R&D of new
products. Aroma Consult offer specialist
services to evaluate performance and
inform R&D and marketing activities.
Efficacy tests are designed to answer
questions such as: Is sweat odour masked by the product? How does performance vary with time? How long is the
fragrance present (product longevity)?
Aroma Consult, a subsidiary of Odournet
group, is in France the only accredited Cofrac
laboratory for measuring and olfactory analysis.
www.aromaconsult.com
www.odournet.com
ébastien Cougoulic
S
+ 33 (0)6 10 09 53 99
[email protected]
2
• • • Rennes Atalante News
+33 (0)2 99 38 85 60
Frédéric Caijo (R.), Manager, and Marc Mauduit,
Scientific Adviser, are the co-founders of Omega Cat
System.
chimiques de Rennes (Institute of chemical
sciences in Rennes, joint CNRS research unit
6226), topped the awards list in 2012 in the
national competition for assistance with the
setting-up of innovative technology companies.
It was also named “Top innovative company in
the cluster” by the Industries and Agricultural
Resources business cluster in Picardy. This
award reflects the technology’s usefulness in
adding value to agricultural resources.
Last but not least, in 2014 it was the Société
chimique de France that rewarded the work
done by the two researchers who founded the
company. On this occasion, they received an
award from the Industrial Chemistry Division.
www.omcat-system.com
[email protected]
Cosmetic Design
ABC Texture launches a range of siliconfree blurs
A
BC Texture is launching a range of cosmetics in response to the trend for siliconfree blurs. The range includes a foundation,
an enhancer, eyeliner and an illuminator. The
product, which lies somewhere between beauty
care and make-up, was first developed across
the Pond, based on software that can remove
imperfections. The products are among the
cosmetics specially created to give the skin a
more beautiful look, eliminating shine, smoothing out irregularities, filling wrinkles and attenuating pores. As a result, the skin is visibly
smoothed. The most important aspect of a blur
is its optical effect, obtained by means of the
© ABC Texture
In order to answer these questions,
Aroma Consult carry out in-vivo
studies utilising human test subjects.
Our tools to conduct these studies
include washing rooms to allow controlled product application, screened and
trained sniffing panel to evaluate the
sweat odour (odour referenced against
n-Butanol & H2S; panel trained using
artificial sweat), test subject panel
(approx.200); panel individually assembled for each study (selected by sex,
age, smoker / non-smoker, athlete…).
The company also has advanced and
innovative data collection techniques,
evaluation of the statistical significance
of results.
With our extensive experience in the
field of deodorant efficacy testing,
Aroma Consult can undertake studies
to internationally accepted designs or
develop bespoke studies.
Frédéric Caijo
© Omega Cat System
O
Within ABC Texture’s laboratory, engineers combine
the beneficial properties of raw materials and formulate new products while retaining the efficacy of
each individual active ingredient.
Cosmetics Special Edition I April 2014
specific treatment of light. It does not reflect
light in its entirety. Instead, light is divided up
by the particles it contains.
Working from Dinard (France), ABC Texture is a
co-contract cosmetic company with a reputation
for excellence in the formulation of beauty care
products, makeup and sun protection. Thanks
to an in-house programme monitoring trends in
France and other countries, the laboratory regularly formulates new products. It develops new
textures and shades based on sensory marketing i.e. the sensations of touch and application
such as the richness of a cream, the fluidity of
a foundation and the smoothness of a powder.
The company also places great importance on
sustainable development. It operates from a
“high environmental quality” building and has
signed the UN’s Global Compact.
Founded by Louisette Bourdin in 2004, the
company now employs 18 staff and achieves
turnover of €2.2 million, 15% of which comes
from international sales.
www.abctexture.com
Louisette Bourdin
+33 (0)2 99 20 03 63
[email protected]
Organic cosmetics
Preclinical Development
Bretagne Beauté Bio is bottling Bretagne!
C.Ris Pharma
B
evaluates the activity
and toxicity of new
molecules
© Bretagne Beauté Bio
retagne Beauté Bio
The marine resources are
designs and markets
harvested off the Molène
organic
cosmetic
proarchipelago in a marine
ducts (holding Ecocert and
biosphere reserve that is
Cosmebio
accreditation)
the only one of its kind in
under the Britanie brand.
the world. It has been listed
They include shower gels,
as a “Man & Biosphere” site
shampoos, soaps etc. To
by Unesco. The algae are
ensure that the company
harvested and processed
stands out from the crowd, it
in situ, using innovative
decided to add value to the
ecological processes. New
work of manufacturers, subproducts for the body are
contractors and suppliers in
scheduled for release in
Brittany and to focus on the Stephanie Seznec, head of
2014 to expand the brand’s
olfactory characteristics of Bretagne Beauté Bio, has
five product ranges.
announced the opening of its
the Breton landscapes. To first store in Dinard.
Bretagne Beauté Bio was
do this, Britanie products
set up in Saint-Malo in November 2010 by Stéphanie Seznec who has
use locally-sourced natural resources. The
fifteen years’ experience in the pharmaceuessential oils come from the southernmost
ticals and cosmetics industry.
tip of Finistère where the plants are harvested and distilled on site by a botanist-farmer.
www.britanie.fr
+33 (0)2 23 52 40 76
[email protected]
Toxicological evaluation
Eurosafe evaluates the safety of cosmetics
E
urosafe, a contract research company specialising in the safety testing
of cosmetic products and ingredients for
use in cosmetics, has recently developed
an evaluation method inspired by sensory
analysis for the application, durability and
results of makeup products.
Created by the recent merger of three
contract research companies (Eurosafe,
Proclaim and Safecos), Eurosafe is a CRO
specialising in three sectors of activity –
Dominique De Javel
toxicological and regulatory expertise, invitro testing and tests on volunteers. With
regard to the last of these activities, it studies the safety and efficacy of cosmetic products as well as customer satisfaction. A
multi-skilled team offers standard and customised trials under expert medical control
(dermatologist, ophthalmologist, gynaecologist etc.) or professional control (beauty
consultant, hairdresser etc.).
www.eurosafe.fr
+33 (0)2 99 23 63 56
[email protected]
Marine active ingredients for cosmetics
Codif Recherche et Nature is launching
active ingredients for makeup
C
© Codif Recherche et Nature
be firmly in the spotlight at
odif Recherche et Nathe In-Cosmetics exhibition,
ture, a specialist in the
where visitors will also be
design and manufacture of
able to see examples of use
natural active ingredients
and formulation.
using innovative plant and
From its premises in Saintalgae growing processes, is
Malo, Codif Recherche et Nalaunching a new range of
ture (30 staff, €8 million turactive ingredients designed
nover in 2013) has accessed
for makeup. These developthe global market for active
ments reflect the emergence,
molecules for the cosmetics
over the past few years, of
sector by implementing an
makeup products with claims
Codif Recherche & Nature
R&D strategy based on the
that were previously reserved works with a distribution
use of high technology to enfor the healthcare category network located on five
hance the marine resources
– anti-aging, hydrating, suns- continents and in nearly
thirty countries.
and develop 100% natural
creen etc.
products to feed into the pipeline of compaSome of the company’s ingredients have
nies seeking new molecules.
been adapted for use in the formulation
of makeup (face, eyes, lips) and they will
www.codif-recherche-et-nature.com
Gabrielle Moro
+33 (0)2 23 18 31 07
.Ris Pharma, a contract research
company specialising in the preclinical in-vitro and in-vivo development of
active molecules, offers a wide range of
services for the pharmaceutical industry,
food processing and the cosmetics sector.
The company’s expertise is based on
various types of studies. Firstly, the
company conducts efficacy studies using
various types of primary human cells
(evaluation of antioxidant properties, in
vitro evaluation of melanin synthesis,
collagen secretion, anti-acne properties
etc.). There are also toxicology studies
with Good Laboratory Practice (GLP)
accreditation (studies of mutagenesis,
geotoxicity, phototoxicity, sterility,
pyrogenicity etc.) and, lastly, bio-testing
(stability, metabolism, identification of
impurities etc.).
© C.Ris Pharma
Stéphanie Seznec
C
[email protected]
Cosmetics Special Edition I April 2014
C.Ris Pharma has laboratories specialising in
molecular and cell biology, microbiology and
biochemistry.
Since it was set up in 2003 C.Ris Pharma
has expanded but it still complies with its
commitment to service quality as regards
testing and customer relations (permanent links to the technical team, regular
reports on ongoing trials etc.), suggesting
customised solutions and the best strategy
for a successful outcome to companies’
projects.
C.Ris Pharma, founded and chaired by
Pierrick Auvray, works from a building
in the Atalante Saint-Malo Park that
brings together laboratories specialising in
molecular and cell biology, microbiology,
biochemistry and analytical chemistry.
The company has a staff of 18.
www.c-rispharma.com
Pierrick Auvray
+33 (0)2 99 19 69 70
[email protected]
• • • Rennes Atalante News
3
Clinical Evaluation
Amarok Biotechnologies: Biological
SLB Pharma manages
clinical trials
testing Lab and
Contract Research
Organization
LB Pharma, a research and development
services company, assists companies
producing pharmaceuticals, medical devices,
cosmetics and nutritional products by conducting clinical evaluations of their products. The
company has experience and specific skills in
the regulatory requirements for “borderline”
products. It can provide project management
at every stage, from initial design to the use of
results, drawing on its expertise in methodology, logistics solutions and medical networks.
One of SLB Pharma’s objectives is to facilitate
access to clinical trials, particularly for cos-
S
A
marok Biotechnologies is a French
private laboratory created in 2011,
based in Saint-Malo, specialized in
tailor made services.
Amarok Biotechnologies propose biological testing services for evaluation
and validation of in-vitro diagnostic
systems (reagents, automatons and
methods). It actually develops services
for challenge tests and microbiological
investigations using rapid methods.
In partnership with a clinical research
organization they offer solutions for
clinical investigations.
H
© Amarok Biotechnologies
TL-Javenech, a company specialising in
the design, development, purification and
manufacture of marine-based biotech molecules for the pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and
nutritional supplements markets will soon be
launching a new molecule of particular interest
to the cosmetics industry - heparosan. Obtained
by a process of fermentation, the polysaccharide, which is already naturally present in the
human body, is totally non-toxic. The new molecule is currently being listed in the cosmetic
reference guide. It has interesting pharmacological properties, particularly for the skin. It has
been demonstrated to restore the expression of
receptors involved in the internalisation of hyaluronic acid. It also stimulates the regeneration
of the expression of collagen-VII and laminin,
two molecules that exist in the dermal-epiderSylvie Ranson
+33 (0)2 99 99 37 37
Rennes - Saint-Malo Science Park
Publication manager: Yann-Yves Le Goffic
Chief editor: Corinne Bourdet
Writting: Véronique Dubois, Raphaëlle Lebreton
Printed at 500 copies
by Média Graphic - Rennes / ISSN: 1268-4090
Stéphanie Lebreton +33 (0)2 99 12 19 62
[email protected]
mal junction. As to heparosan, it improves the
restoration of tight junctions after UV irradiation. All these properties make it a very useful
active ingredient for the restoration of the epidermal barrier function and in the prevention
of sun damage. The ingredient is currently available on request as a sample for laboratory use.
Heparosan will complete the range of cosmetic
products supplied by HTL-Javenech, a range
which includes highly polymerised DNA, a collagen related to type V, fibrillin, protamine sulphate and a combination of collagen and highly
polymerised DNA.
www.htl-bio.com
An attractive region
© Sacib
Idéa35 and Saint-Malo Agglomération are
seeking to attract cosmetics companies
The Odyssée complex in the Atalante Saint-Malo
Technology Park.
www.rennes-atalante.com
www.slbpharma.com
[email protected]
incent Genty
V
+33 (0)2 99 81 08 09
[email protected]
Tél. +33 (0)2 99 12 73 73
Fax +33 (0)2 99 12 73 74
metics companies looking to evaluate and/or
demonstrate the benefits of their active ingredients scientifically.
HTL-Javenech is developing a new structural
molecule for the cosmetics industry
www.amarokbiotech.com
15 rue du Chêne Germain
35510 Cesson-Sévigné
France
Stéphanie Le Breton, who founded the company in
Rennes in 2007, with her three colleagues.
Molecular farming
Vincent Genty, Amarok Biotechnologies’
founder and ceo.
Amarok biotechnologies offers
Research and Development outsourcing services conducting programs
organized step by step with go/no-go
decision meetings for a more efficient
and costless management. Of course
each realization is ran under total nondisclosure agreement. They are actually
looking for a major partnership in
developing biological research development programs to create natural and
biological actives. These activities are
realized under ISO9001 process.
© SLB Pharma
biotech Service
A
t the end of 2013, the economic development agency Idéa 35 and Saint-Malo Agglomération (the district council) joined forces to
locate and attract cosmetics firms, highlighting
the strengths that make Bretagne the world
leader in marine and plant-based cosmetics.
The prospecting campaign coincided with the
inauguration of the Odyssée complex in the
Atalante Saint-Malo Technology Park. It consists
of a 2,700 sq. metre tertiary hub designed for
companies specialising in adding value to ma-
rine resources, cosmetics, and information and
communication technologies. The 70-hectare
Park has been built to very high environmental
standards and it will boast a number of advantages that place it ahead of competitors, such
as very fast broadband and piped seawater.
The proximity of the sea, Saint-Malo harbour
and large regional companies naturally gave
the Park its initial area of specialisation, bringing added value to marine resources with support from the Mer Bretagne and Valorial competitiveness clusters. A number of significant local
stakeholders are already taking advantage of
these services. One such is the international
Roullier Group (plant, animal and human nutrition, employing 6,000 staff including 1,200 in
Saint-Malo), which will be building its global
R&D centre in Saint-Malo this year with a view
to bringing most of its research and innovation
together on one site.
www.atalante-stmalo.fr
hristine Alami
C
+33 (0)2 23 15 17 23
[email protected]