Les Dentelles de Montmirail
797
792
793
O
Rocher du Grand Travers
I ParkingforChair
deGigondas
h'U •' - . " • " •
794 I
Chaine du Grand Travers
Rocher du Cayron
Rocher du Cayron Chaine du Grand Travers
Rocher du Cayron
A pleasant location featuring a collection
of slabby routes on good compact rock.
Approach - See page 190.
Ga+
y Chicos
6a+
V Agrhume
©Loloa
6c+
9 Virgule
5+
3 Dessine-Moi Une Grenouille . . .
©L'Astronef
6b
SHSdlfil
© Funambulle
8JG0S1
OvolauVent
£§l[Hiil
OfialduRoc
Gc
7a
6c
CD Cachemire
® (ES1I
I 6a
The start used to come in from the right (hence the oddlypositioned bolt) but chipped holds now lead directly.
*> Les Jardins Suspendus
Salsa
6b
© Folle Envie
6b+
!£> Les Quatres Saisons...
6b
Carence
Photo opposite.
7a
Le Grand Mouvement..
1
1
6b+
©Captive
{&GH
L'lmpermanence
Ninos
La Terre Apres la Bombe
'& Unknown
L'Homme Volant
7a
©Voyage-Voyage
6b+
© L'Encre de Tes Y e u x . . . {S [S
'& Frankie Goes to Virginie
1
Cuba Libre
& Chan Chan
u) Talons Aiguille et Bas Reside
£) Conpadres
Adam Gill on Carence (6b) - opposite
196 I
Chainedu Grand Travers
Rocherdu Grand Tr
her du Grand Travers Chaine du Grand Travers
lljj
Rocher du Grand Travers
Good rock and short, friendly routes following
good lines plus a sunny aspect make this a
popular spot for groups and families.
Approach •
Warning - At time of writing, the threat of a
rockfall posed by some large boulders at the top
of the crag (belays of routes 16-18 are on these
blocks) has closed the left-hand side of the crag.
La Dalle de I'Arbre
Ambiance et Cotillon
P.E.G.C. 13
La Petpluoktoncul
La Jacqueline
La Jolie Dalle
©La Fastoche
La Bonbulu
La Leonne
Le Faux Pas D'Artif
La Leon
L'Ave Haineux
5
6b
©LaLyon
61)4-
® Cracoucass
. S t a r t en Feu
6a+
5
La Sophie
5
Le Golot Critique
5+
La Fissure
6a
La Danone
6a
La Gauche de la Droite
D L'Annie
L'lvaldi .................. i r |_
© L'Octobule
...............
SI
I 6a
I 5+
77)e fi/ia/ ftVe routes 0/Ve pleasant easy climbing on the end wall.
© La Niquedouille ............ o?H _
An easy initial slab leads to a prominent crackline.
© La Garce ................. iSl_
I 5
I 4+
Scramble up past a detached block at 3m then follow the corner/
crack up leftwards.
© Le Vivier ................. {J}|_
I 4+
Start left of the big tree, four bolts lead up past another tree, then
continue to the top.
Super Mollasson
A very amenable line.
5
6a
© L'Enfance de I'Art..
5+
©LaG.G
5
©LaD7
© Les Mollasons ............... I_
I3
The final, ultra short, route on the right-hand side of the crag.
Orpierre
200 I
Chaine de Gigondas
Diedre de Savoie
5+
Diedre de Provence
Hamdulilha
6b
7b+
0 Oceane
5+
Vipere a Sonnette
6a
•*• Diedre de Provence .
1)6a, 2)6a. Photo opposite.
6a+
Apollo 13
7a
'Tibet Libre .
1)4+, 2)6b+, 3)7b+
Jomo .
1)5+, 2)4+
Montelimar. . .
Approach from Jomo.
6a+
01 Le Seme Guignol...
1)6a, 2)6a+
6a
© Le Jouret la Nuil...
1)5, 2) 6a
© Solstice d'Ete .
(D Dur la Reprise.
5+
5+
6b+
6b
O Super Cog
Lufalukejelcus.
1)5, 2)6b+
6a+
1) 6a+, 2) 6a+
5+
Faute de Prises . .
5+
La Route de la Vie.
' Tierra del Fuego
1
5
La Savoyarde
1)5,2)4+
1
Bismilha. .
Williwaux
Ourdes96..
6b+
7a
© Fleche a Jojo
1) 6b, 2) 5+
Nanie.
1)6a+, 2)5
© Homme a Lunettes...
dre de Provence
Chaine de Gigondas
6b
6a+
7c
Start as for Nanie or Mauvais.
© Mauvais Jour
1)6b+, 2)7a
De Champeville
7a
5+
Approach up Nanie which is 6a+.
€> Tour de Chauffe.
© La Griffe du Lion
© Petit Pilier .
Je Suis un Communiste . . .
7a+
I 7a
I 6b
I 6c+
Photos on page 190 and 203.
6c+
6a+
Diedre de Provence
A mixture of routes following strong natural
lines. Diedre de Provence is well worth doing
and is probably the most popular route here.
Approach - See page 190 for main approach.
Head left when you reach the top of the
approach path.
A team enjoying the classic Diedre de Provence (6a) opposite.
202 I
Chaine de Gigondas
Arete Lagarde
L'Aiguillette Lagar
£
1) 5, 2) 5. Can be done in 1 long single pitch.
Crack en Stock..
E2D
5
6b
O Week-end a Vichy
4+
v Tout Crapato
C'est C a n o n . . .
Aliens Z'Enfants
Archimede . . .
6a
6b+
O Oral au Moral .
Tintin Sous la Dentelle
1)4+, 2)5+
&
1)4+, 2)4+
Spartacus
5+
Boule et Bill
1)5,2)5+
Lucky Luke . . .
Rantanplan...
Petite Emetine
1)3,2)5,2)4+
Super Lolo
La Belle Alexandra
1)5,2)5
Arete Est de L'Aiguillette Lagarde
Directe de L'Aiguillette
Kebra le Loub
Arete Quest de L'Aiguillette
Garganta
1)5+, 2)5+
e Socle...
Tischmacher
> Filler Clair .
Citron Hallucinogene
6a+, 2 ) 6 b , 2 } 7 a
3D Vibration
1) 6a+. As for Citron.... 2) 6b+, 3} 6b
;' 24
25
26
L'Aiguillette Lagarde
IA wealth of short, slabby routes at the top of the
I approach path ensures popularity. The longer routes take
I striking lines to the very top of the crag.
I Approach - See page 190 for main approach.
| This is the area just right at the top of the approach path.
Diedre de Pfovence
o o Eliffll
E33 " o
«J Emprise Directe
i)7b, 2)7a+
35 Baleine Sous Caillou
/o
&[HS1[
SI
1)6c, 2)6c
Avt
.en
SH
(D Groupe Electrogene
SI
©Jardinland
Si I
® Radio Moquette
uH
3) CeSoirou Jamais
Morizot-Parat
iSl
'1)4, 2)5+, 3} 5+
© Larguez Tout
& k_l I
iSI
Super Regina
wl
Fleurde Lotus
iSI
Ludwig
' DokterGigi
'*
UJI
S? ISlI I
' Prince des Tenebres
SIS
> Mr. Wonderful
1© Lobotomitique.
1
|O Nulle Part D'Ailleurs
' Face Est
1
Les Copains D'Abord
I© L'luresse de la Victoire
I'Aigiiillrtti- Lagarde
1
ID ATitre Provisoire
,&) Surplomb Variation ..
sBfiienNeVa
^© Managa
i) Le Dauphin D'Argent ....
l)6b+,2)6b
';© Glasnost
|y«K
U? Croqueuse D'Hommes ...
' Banana Split
;0 Arete Sur Image
* Temps Decadents
Uj
|1}6b+, 2)5
St) Pierrelatine
Diedre des Parisiens . . .
O Referentiel Bondissant
y Terre Etrangere
l)7a+, 2)6a
f'*|l)5+,2)5+
{$
Petits Moutons
|1)6C, 2)6c
l*£> Voie du Surplomb . . .
,l)6c, 2)6a+
$3
$
F""1
Ht
$3
fp~
Le Mythe de la Beaute du Diable UJ
10 Hamburger
Morizot-Parat
IA number of impressive wall climbs, many
I stretching to the summit ridge, make this feel a bit
I more adventurous than the average sport crag.
I Approach - See page 190 for main approach.
I Walk right from the L'AiguiNette Lagarde sector.
6a
Soleil Couchant
La Dalle du Banlieusard
i?3
[ZZD
.Q
Kj
O
\
Ch
o
Traversee
Chainedu Clapis
\<r\(
Chagrin d'Humei
Chagrin d'Humeur
Diane
...................
5+
Orange Mechanique,
6a
1)6a, 2)5+
A long trad route for which few details are known.
Brazil
Nike..
6a
There are two continuation routes above Diane.
Jardin.
5+
Silence
0 Qa Bade un Max
6a
©TablierRose
..............
{|}|
6c
1)5+, 2) 6c
O Rape
6b
6a
Mid d'Ecureuil
5+
Cheeseburger...
1)6a,2}6a+
Comme un Oiseau Sans Ailes . .
a+, 2)6a+
6b
6c
(D Charter Pour Ouaga
2} 6a, 3) 6c
7a
© Oes Gestes Pour le Faire . .
6a
6a
7a+
1
N'Accablez Pas I'Os
7a
Chagrin d'Humeur
5+
1)5+, 2)5+
© Belote et Rebelote.
1)6b, 2)6a
Planplanette
6b •
6a
1}6a, 2)6a
1)5+, 2)6b+, 3}7a
6a+
W Ventre Gris
Bb
1) 6a. As for Nid d'Ecureuil. 2) 6b, 3) 6b
• Electric Soupgon
Jeu d'Artifice
O Pan Bagnat.
1) 5+, 2) 7a+. The second pitch can be gained from the left.
6b
© Chateau de Sable.
l)6a, 2)6b
©Semenova
WlluL
7a
A steep alternative finishing pitch.
6b
Q) Bayonnette . .
1)5+,2}6b
Nikita
&C
Baramine et Belles Ecailles . . .{?f|
© Sucre d'Orge.
1)5,2)6b
The first sector you come across is a popular spot, with
plenty of slabby routes up excellent rock. It might not be
a good spot on a cool windy day as the wind funnels
through the notch in the chain.
Approach - See page 190 for main approach.
These walls are left of the notch.
6a+
5+
6b
© Croissant Chaud
iSl
6b
1) 6a. Can continue direct for a good 6b+ alternative. 2) 6h
;© Expo Systeme
[l)6a+, 2)6b+
61)4-
Attention Fragile
6b+
w Trainee Marron
1)5+, 2}6b+
SJ|
6a
1) 6a. Start up Croissant Chaud.
2) 6a. Can be done in one long run out.
Vires Rouges
Some brilliant technical wall climbs with some
almost-as-good steep slabs to go at. This
sector is often more sheltered from the wind
than the previous one.
Approach - See page 190 for main approach.
This wall is just right of the notch.
Vires Rouges
Chaine du Clapis
B1.3
O L'Eliminante
(E> Panique Rend Sourd
0) Panique el Lime ..
& Vil le Coyote
Photo this page.
Bougede La
^
© Le Pire Ami du Loup
Les Novis
^2
^2
La Poire
i2
L'Oreille Absolue
(D Tern pete de Cerveau.. 1)6a+, 2)7b
t> Le Philanthrope
1)7a,2)6c+
1
Andropete
' Grottea Gateau
^2
> Reved'6
© Rapt a la Trnnqonneuse ... ^ 2
1}6a+. 2)6b, 3)6b+
© New Baby
1)6a+, 2)6b+
w Vires Rouges
&
1} 4+, 2) 6a+. Can split at a belay on New Baby, 3) 6b
6c+
L Enter des Roudoudous
, 2)6a
6a+
Fonction Nerf d'Acier
O Georgette a Plat
O Macroscope
Roudoudous Directos
l)6b, 2)6b+
, 2)6b+
;hris Keag on Vil Itt Coyote (6a) - this page.
272 I
Chaine du Clapis
Vistemboir
A justifiably popular sector with a number of good two
and three pitch routes that feel quite airy. Bring a 60m
rope and lots of quickdraws and you can try and link
some of the pitches.
Approach - See page 190 for main approach.
Follow the path right aiong the crag base.
Ophilippus
, 2)6a, 3)6b+
The next seven routes all share the first pitch of Philiippus, 5.
Esoleroc
1) 5, 2) 6b+, 3) 6a+. There may be a 4th pitch.
6b+
O Les Memoires de Darwin . .
1)5, 2) 6c
0 Un Minou aux Yeux d'Ocean
1)5, 2)7a, 3)6b
:4 -- "-
\^f WS/-L ''^
O Piano Postiche
1)5, 2)5+, 3) 7a
Luna Speed
1)5, 2)5+, 3)6b+
Vistemboir
1)5, 2)4+, 3} 5+, 4 ) 5 +
EgoTne
..................
1)4+, 2 ) 5 +
Solidarnosc
Approach from Ego'ine. 1) 5+, 2) 6a
Les Conquistadors
..........
Approach from Ego'ine. 1) 5+, 2) 6a
© Megalomane Gaga
1 ) 6 b , 2 } 4 + , 3)6a, 4)6a+
..........
© Megalomane
...........
1) and 2) as for Megaiomane Gaga. 3) 6a, 4) 6b
Benedetti
1)5+, 2)6a+, 3)6a
................
9 Melomane Gaga (P1)
Three more pitches - see previous page
<2
Karsherigene
Tintin au Bidet
No Commenf
La Planete aux Scorpions . . . .
©Plume
6b+
© L e Local Loco
Profenator
ID Rire en Dedans
Tous des Gosses
LeZan
El Mon Capo
Camouflage
Au Pays du Soleil Brulant
Photo on page 21 3.
©LeZain
O Unanime
C'etait un Roaw
Benedetli (P1)
Three more pitches - see previous page
Full Double Full
$ Hymnosens
On I'Appelle Fossile
O L'Enfant de Sable
Urgence du Pire
Pebroune
route continues for two pitches on old gear.
Ultimatum
Gogol Blues
La Vie au Chon
Sacrepuscule
Nebuleuse (P1)
The route continues for four pitches on old gear.
LeZebre
Hula Hop
La Loi du Caniveau
Le Marquis
©Germinal
LeLelo
Les Demons du Temps Immobile
Crise d'Autorite
Nebuleuse
A wide wall with mostly single pitch routes that don't get a
huge amount of attention. The quality generally improves
as you move further to the right.
Approach - See page 190 for main approach.
Follow the path right along the craq base.
O Petit Verin
Detour au Purgatore . . .
Masculin Singulier ____
Giilou
The most impressive sector at the Dentelles with plenty
of big, steep, hard routes to choose from if you are up to
them. Sheltered from the rain, the routes here tend to stay
well-chalked-up, making them look all the more inviting.
Approach - See page 190 for main approach.
Follow the path right along the crag base.
O Bassora Fiesta
Q) Regards de Profanes . . id
0 Over the Topinambours .
«
ChaineduClapis
© C'etait un Petit Bonheur wL5i bti i
&l9ll£ll
i 7b+
7b
© Complicite d'un Paradoxe.. Ufffll
© Le Lezard de Balthazar .
© Outrage
® 1 Gitlou
<2
The original start is up the previous route. The start shown is
Garagiste aux Mains Blanches, the grade is unchanged.
/\7b+to the first belay.
© Rien a Cirer
© Ocunu Beach
La Transformation du Boulanger
© Est-Ouest
Pas de Doute
© Saddam Kiki
Osmose
Moxita
I 7c
; Two more pitches can be climbed at 5+, A1 if you want to get to
thfitoo of the wall.
I 8b
7c
7b+
7c
© Qa Cracotte
7b
© Gigondas New York . . . S
7b+
i?
© J'ai Deux Amours
i£
© Bird's Beach
7b
Ticket Pour un Aller Simple
Lune de Miel
In sharp contrast to the wall to the left, the routes
here are slabby and technical. The rock is perfect
and the routes are absorbing.
Approach - See page 190 for main approach
Follow the path right along the crag base.
^^•ifcs^ , • -^^-M^^^f^:^^^
&&*& < •
1^^^^^^^^-^^^ :fe^?^^
O Loin de la Foute
l)7a. Continue past the first belay. 2)7a+
O Petits Doigls de Fee . . . £J
, 2)7b+
7b+
la Ballade du Mahabhartata
1)61)+, 2»6a+, 3)6b
O
Les Chemins du MerveilleuxS
Courte Echelle
Crenoline
O Mini Prises, Max! Vols
1)7b, 2)7b, 3)5+
Lune de Miel
1) 6a+, 2) 6a, 3) 6a. Photo opposite.
O Invitation a la Danse . .
Mandragore
1)6a+, 2)5+, 3)5+
•T rj^KT^
220 |
ChaineduClapis
Blocus
Blocus
A concentration of great slab routes, the best of |
which run for two pitches or more.
Approach - See page 190 for main approach.
Follow the path right along the crag base.
£$
AgadirRiena Dire
W
L'Ombre d'un Doute
©L'arlaCroft
(D pjgne de Coucou
Revede Singe
1)6a,2)5+
•:".^
**f
Les Vautours
Blocus ChaineduClapis
S^IE
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w
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^
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t^ 'j^^ >' V * W7 T •
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1
f7,4f';f i -v w V x - ' - ' - - --f ' •'
t^>A/** fW&f&'^A
6a
1)5+, 2 ) 5 , 3 ) 6a
** Gueule de Loup
^i
Italian Shoes
&l
..$?'
wl
1)6a+, 2)5+
© Turbostyle
&ISIZ
6b+
1)6b+, 2 ) 5
. © Pinpin et Yeye
-syrvva
,-; ^
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^W^vSTl
^?*«,V \V'
'"* **• **
*.-*»*'- < „ •::
^Gargolot
t*1)Bh.2)5+
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iUSIISC
;^
55lSdl_
iSL
>.® Scorpigouille
'*1)6a, 2)5+
1)5+, 2) 5+
^^
;r
t-^r —
iSL
, 25 Douce Romance ., C$.
.1V *;'
,>;'
6a
/ *'
»^>
rA
' .-
U Histoire d'Aulx
| ?SL
'' 1)6a+, 2)5+
**
© Pilier Central Direct
.'1)5+,2)5+,3)6b
^•L> •*!
t's'' t^%>
.*
&OHL
® Dernier Tango au Clapis
j1)6a, 2)6a
: is possible to scran
down from the second
belays on routes 27-31
•lit hardly worth it.
SJL
-"Jv
j-^i j
'•^ Tango Direct
WL
©Mad Max
&[BL
' 1)6b,2)6a
\ ®Blocus .....J..,
rS.
it
S51BC
6a
.1)63,2)63,3)5
Sans Issue
1 6a+
La Berlue
6c+
Malpertuis
6c
Perverse Devers
M*
Nucleus
^ Roc d'Azur ..$:
La Nova
£31
11) 5+. Start up Nucleus to maintain the grade. 2) 5+, 3) 6a+
6b+
O Coup de Boule
! 1) 6c+. Start up Malpertuis.
2) 6b+
61)
S^l
*f ® Extreme Droit
@l
I 6a
I 5+
> ! 1)6a,2)5+
1
J
Further to the right, there is a notch in the crag where
the wind often whistles through. Beyond here the
development is much less evident, though the rock is
good. The areas to the right are seasonally restricted
and not covered in this guide.
Tfte nexf roufe is started by scrambling up an easy ramp to the
upper right-hand side of the wall.
Soupgons
Picots de Rose
.0 Une Ideeeen I'Air ..
5+
Hugo Delire.
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 6a
Saint Christophe
Cascad
Cascade
A sheltered, sunny spot with a
collection of routes covering the grade'
*j spectrum. The low grade slabby
pitches at the base of the wall are
popular with groups, so if there's a
minibus at the parking area, you may I
find it wise to move onto somewhere
else if you're looking for 4s and 5s.
Approach - See page 190.
lFrom the limited parking on the bend,
to|low the road which almost leads to
the base of the crag. A path leads off
under the wall from here.
Cascade
Saint Christophe
Gougniaffier
Quelques Gouttes
0 Les Pieds dans le Plat
O Pekin
1) 7c. Continue on from Les Pieds... 2) 6c
Mori aux Dents
Les Ratasi . . ,
O Unknown
1)6c+, 2}7a+
Diedre a Sec
Restosec
Alexandra
J) Sale Verdure
® Pascal leRappeur..
Rideau de Pluie
Adheresec
v) Concretion
©Unknown .
1)7b+, 2)7b
W Unknown. . _____
May be 7c+ to the tirst belay.
Unknown. . "
© Project
® La Main Droite du Diable
Unknown
Unknown
) Diedre des Cascades
1) 6b+, 2} 6a
Unknown
Unknown
Varvava
Unknown
A finish to the Diddre des Cascades
Unknown
Saint Christophe
Le Grand Toit
r-T^.
' V
"!-*&> .gjt
-'mss*^*?****'
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Le Grand Toit
Saint Christophe
Le Grand Toit
The right-hand side of the Cascade area has a huge
roof and some good blocky walls crossed by a series of
horizontal breaks. The routes here tend to be short and
powerful. It is a bit of a sun-trap but good in the winter.
Approach - See page 190.
From the limited parking on the bend, follow the road
which almost leads to the base of the crag. A path leads
off under the wall from here.
J!*«5*«,
-ft'i--'>
?5*7;
ffffgHH P?H f>
''**£?
^*s
\ \ M 8 \ i '• >
, , \i \
Approach the roof routes from here I
?
© Unknown.
ffi[H[
ffi Unknown
7b+
O Unknown.
UJlfil
© Unknown
6a+
O Unknown.
&M
©Unknown
6c
0 Unknown.
© Unknown.
6a
O Unknown.
r
\
•i
•
• '
7a
6c+
7a
6c+
6C+
De Brame.
, 8b
O Com me une mouche.... UJ
The centre of the huge roof.
wlfil
© Unknown
&Hl
O Unknown
[
O Unknown
®E0H[
O Unknown
7c+
W Unknown
iJHllll
I 7a+
The same lower-off is passed on the right. This one tackles the
left-hand edge of the big roof.
?
7a+
7b
7b
7b
ffi Unknown
7b
tiy Unknown.
Start up the previous route.
7b
0DDH[
© Unknown
&ODH[
©Unknown
Start up the previous route.
© Thick + Soft
ffilllll
I 6c
Climb up to a hanging corner then follow the bolts out left.
© Unknown
{SlUl
I 6c
Start up the previous route but go direct from the corner.
6b+
© Unknown
i$
Start up Pek Machine and break out right.
6b+
W Pek Machine
The next line is fairly direct.
tU
Saint Christophe
Tyrolienne
Saint Christophe
I 229
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Tyrolienne
jjJust below the parking for Saint Christophe, Tyrolienne is [
I a sort of miniature crag. The rock is good, but the routes
I are very short. A good, low-stress venue for novices.
(Approach - See page 190.
I From the upper parking, below St. Christoph, follow a
I short path to the clifftop, then descend down the left|hand side (looking in) of the crag to reach the base.
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South Face Saint Christophe
Saint Christophe
An attractive roadside venue wifh a range of good
one and two-pitch routes on very good rock. The crag
is quite exposed, so best avoided on windy days.
yj Approach - See page 190.
A path leads direct from the upper parking to the crag.j
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