HAB Turbo conversion kit, Ready2fly Yak-130

HAB Turbo conversion kit, Ready2fly Yak-130
The engine will be installed like this, we need to remove some foam and trim the right hand side of
the plywood mount. The following pictures will be guidance.
1. Remove the right hand side wall in the engine compartment with a sharp knife of your choice
2. Cut the plywood engine mount
3.1. Remove marked area using a sharp knife of your choice
3.2. Remove marked area using a sharp knife of your choice
3.3. Remove marked area using a sharp knife of your choice
3.4. Remove marked area using a sharp knife of your choice, cut from the angle best suited
**Optional, add thin CA glue around the mount for extra support**
4.1 Assemble the engine mount. Look closely to the drawing and make trail fitting before gluing.
Some parts are asymmetrical.
4.2 Final assembly should look like this. Engine and tube holders are fastened with M3 screws. They
will act like self-threading screws, no need to tap the holes.
4.3 Fit the CNC cut engine mount, mark the mounting holes, predrill and use your favorite servo
mounting screws to fit it. Two screws per side are needed. Depending on how you cut the foam it can
be tight to reach the screws. Hint! Hex screws can be tightened at an angle with the right tool.
5.1. Add aluminum tape FIRST to the right hand side elevator, like this…
5.2. …then to the right hand side exhaust, all way around including the engine bay area around the
thrust tube
5.3. Use the rest of the aluminum tape to cover the engine bay, focus around the exhaust of the
engine and the top side. Not much is really needed due to venturi effect cooling the fuselage.
6.1. Install engine mount and thrust tube. Align the thrust tube with the large ring on the engine
mount. When this is aligned you will have the correct angle of the tube. Don’t glue the guiding
smaller rear ring just yet. (Not in picture)
6.2.1. Rotate the rear smaller ring to align the tube. The small notch will be pointing more or less
upwards. Install the engine too and use the large ring as guidance together with a visual check,
looking in to the exhaust.
6.2.2. When aligned secure the small rear ring with thin CA glue. It glues to the aluminum tape. Hint!
Due to the offset engine the tube will not be aligned to the centerline of the plane.
7.1. Cut the hatch to fit properly. I attached one way of doing it.
7.2. Sand the plastic and rub the EPO then glue the plastic parts to the hatch with CA glue.
8.1. Fuel tank goes where the EDF flight pack used to be. Cut away the foam as of the picture. It is
easier than it looks as the foam bits removed are only fixed at the very top!
8.2. Take some time and route the wires properly. LED module, Gear sequencer and all wires do fit
nicely underneath the no longer needed battery tray. Takes some time, but looks so much better.
8.3. First route all wires and tubes (not in the picture) then install the fuel tank and secure with EPO
left overs.
9. The rest is pretty much a basic turbine install and which parts chosen are up to you. Choose
batteries of your preferred size to fit where there is room and to get the proper CG. One flight with
the kolibri is about 8min long and uses 85mAh from the 2S turbine pack. A 3S Rx pack will use about
the same capacity for one flight.
Electric breaks are a good option when flying with a turbine.
Made for HAB Electronic AB [email protected] by Henrik Torphammar, 2014 Rev 1

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