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NATIONAL LABORATORY FOR CIVIL ENGINEERING
Hydraulics and Environment Department
HARBOURS AND MARITIME STRUCTURES DIVISION
March 2014
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NATIONAL LABORATORY FOR CIVIL ENGINEERING
Hydraulics and Environment Department
HARBOURS AND MARITIME STRUCTURES DIVISION
1. INTRODUCTION
The Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil (LNEC – the Portuguese Civil Engineering
Laboratory) is a public institution of science and technology, covering the broad field of civil
engineering.
The Hydraulics Department started its activities in 1948, two years after LNEC was created, and
includes the Harbours and Maritime Structures Division (NPE, its Portuguese acronym) which is
responsible at LNEC for the research in the area of Port Engineering. Although most of the
division work has been based on scale model testing of maritime structures, its activity domains
also include the modelling of wave propagation from offshore to sheltered regions and of the
wave effects on both moored and free sailing ships.
This paper aims to describe the major research areas of the Harbours and Maritime Structures
Division of LNEC as well as to illustrate the activities in those areas with some recent studies
carried out at NPE. After this introduction, there is a brief description of the division history
which is followed by a not so brief account of today’s activities in the division research areas.
Then relevant studies carried out at NPE are described and the paper ends with some final
remarks.
2. A BRIEF HISTORY
Two years after LNEC’s foundation, the Hydraulics Section of LNEC was created. Four years
later this section became the Hydraulics Division comprising two sections: the Fluvial Hydraulics
Section and the Maritime Hydraulics Section. It was from the evolution of the latter section that
the present day Harbours and Maritime Structures Division emerged.
It was in the early fifties of the past century, with the scale model tests for the Lobito harbour
(Angola, a former Portuguese territory in Africa) and for the Figueira da Foz harbour (in
mainland Portugal) that in the then Maritime Hydraulics Section a long cycle of scale model test
for port, harbour and coastal protection works began. During this cycle, which lasted up to the
late sixties, several model testing technologies were developed.
From 1968 on, the inclusion of a mathematician in the division staff made it possible to further
the knowledge on the characterization of sea waves and on the simulation techniques for
irregular sea waves. A direct consequence of this work was the construction in 1971 of the first
irregular wave flume of LNEC, a turning point in the technological capabilities of the then
Harbours and Beaches Division in what concerned wave generation. This enabled 2-D scale
model tests for stability and overtopping of breakwaters being carried out with similarity
conditions that are closer to the real working conditions of these structures. It must be pointed
out that both the flume and the actuator characteristics were designed at LNEC.
Something similar happened in 1982, when the division purchased its first irregular wavemakers for three dimensional scale model testing: these wave makers were totally designed at
LNEC. They have been continuously used for stability and overtopping tests and for wave
penetration tests of several harbour and coastal protection structures deployed both in Portugal
and abroad.
From 1983 to 1987, due to the international discussion prompted by the collapse of the Sines
west breakwater on the scale effects in the model testing of this kind of structures a new, larger,
irregular wave flume was designed (flume + wave maker) and built (only the flume) at LNEC.
In the early nineties, two large irregular wave makers for 3-D scale model testing with larger
geometrical scales were designed at LNEC. The use of these wave makers enables the
reproduction in the wave basin of larger depths, something which is quite relevant for the
physical modelling of the maritime regions of Madeira and Azores, two Portuguese archipelagos
in North Atlantic.
Based upon LNEC’s wave maker design experience, new wave makers were designed at LNEC
and purchased, sponsored by the Portuguese Innovation Agency, AdI (MEDIRES research
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project) and by the National Science Foundation, FCT (Portuguese Scientific Re-equipment
project).
Open software to compensate wave reflection by the wave maker was purchased from the
University of Gent and was recently included in the NPE testing facilities.
It must be pointed out that almost all the maritime structures designed in Portugal were tested
through scale models built in the wave basins and / or the wave flumes of LNEC.
In 1986, following a Ph.D. thesis on the behaviour of rubble-mound breakwaters, a new activity
area related to the systematic inspection of maritime structures was started. In this inspection
most of the maritime structures of the present Portuguese Port and Maritime Transport Institute
have been inspected on a regular basis.
Together with the scale modelling activity, the Harbours and Maritime Structures Division
developed much activity in numerical modelling which led, for instance, to dropping physical
modelling for studies of harbour resonance and of the behaviour of moored ships, and to the
development of a new activity area related to the numerical modelling of ships navigating in
confined waters.
3. RESEARCH AREAS
The Harbours and Maritime Structures Division (NPE) was founded in 1949 and its activity
consists of applied research and research under contract in the fields of design, safety and
exploitation of maritime works, particularly harbours, port structures, underwater structures and
coastal defense structures.
In addition to physical modelling, which predominates, numerical modelling, field observations
and office studies are currently applied methodologies.
NPE performs commissioned studies in the following areas:



Sea wave characterization;
Hydraulic and structural behaviour of harbour, coastal protection and underwater
structures;
Ship behaviour in harbour approaches and when moored.
NPE also conducts studies for the improvement of simulation techniques in physical models.
Each subject area occupies a work group composed of a variable number of researchers and
technicians, according to work necessity.
Up to the present, NPE has performed more than a hundred and fifty research studies under
contract, of which about forty for foreign clients, in Europe, Asia, Africa and South America.
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Sea wave characterization







Sea wave prediction
Stochastic modelling of sea waves
Sea wave simulation
Propagation and deformation of sea waves (refraction, diffraction, reflection)
Wave penetration in harbours
Harbour resonance
Long period waves
Structural and hydraulic Behaviour of harbour infrastructures, coastal protection
structures and underwater structures



Physical modelling of maritime structures
o Stability and overtopping tests
o Wave tests
o Special structures tests
Semi-submerged structures inspection and diagnosis
Wave-structures interactions
AMAZON
Overtopping physical and numerical modelling
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Ship behaviour in harbour approaches and when moored

Simulation of ship navigation in coastal zones and in harbour approach channels
3623200
3623100
CoordY (m)
3623000
3622900
boundary
ship axis
3622800
ship trajectory
Tideal trajectory
3622700
337600
337700
337800
337900
338000
338100
338200
CoordX (m)
Moored ship dynamics
Risk Management in Maritime Infrastructure


Risks:
o risk of coastal flooding;
o risks in harbour infrastructure related to:
 harbour structures
 cargo loading and unloading
 harbour navigation
 moored vessels
o risks in coastal structures, submarine outfalls and water intakes;
Computer tools:
o Tools for risk assessment and mapping
o Forecast and alert systems
o Test beds
o Tools for design and assessment of the safety of maritime structures using
probabilistic and optimization methods
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338300
Risk Management
The ability of LNEC to carry out high level consultancy comes from the continuous work of its
researchers to keep abreast of the knowledge in their expertise areas. This work is sponsored
mainly by LNEC itself, through its four-year research plans or partially by the Portuguese
Research Council or by the European Union structural funds.
The programmed research areas of the Harbours and Maritime Structures Division are
- Stochastic modelling of sea waves;
- Deterministic modelling of waves and currents;
- Navigation and moored-ship behaviour;
- Behaviour of maritime structures.
- Risk Management in Maritime Infrastructure
In the following sections a brief description is made of the work being carried out in these areas.
3.1 Stochastic modelling of sea waves
In spite of the availability of mathematical models able to simulate either in a deterministic or in
a probabilistic way the propagation and deformation of sea waves from offshore to the coast,
there is not yet an acceptable mathematical formulation for the behaviour of maritime structures
at the coast under sea-wave action. Hence, the need for scale modelling these waves to get
statistical information which is hard or even impossible to obtain deterministically is the main
purpose of this research topic. The simulation techniques used are usually stochastic and the
treatment is called of short term, since it is related to the production of wave records that are
compatible with the stationarity hypothesis, in contrast to the long-term treatment, in which one
studies the general wave regime during many years at a given location.
In this research area two components are considered:
a) short-term simulation of sea waves. This component deals with the generation of seawave records compatible with the stationarity hypothesis and it aims at the theoretical
development of methodologies for physical and numerical simulation of sea wave
records and wave generation and data acquisition in wave flumes and wave basins.
Within the scope of this component an integrated software package code-named SAM
(the Portuguese acronym for sea-wave simulation) was developed, Capitão (2002), and
is in operation in the scale model tests carried out in LNEC wave flumes and wave
basins. This package deal with both the production of sea-wave time series to control the
wave maker, in order to produce the desired spectrum or record, and with the data
acquisition and processing of the data collected at wave flumes and wave basins. Figure
2 presents a view of SAM’s interface.
b) long-term sea-wave regimes. This component deals with the long-term treatment in
which the general sea-wave regime at a given location along time is studied. Its
objectives are to complete and to update the definition of the general observed and
extreme sea-wave regimes at the west and south coasts of mainland Portugal.
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Still within the scope of this component, there is work going on to include the numerical model
SWAN, Booij et al. (1996), in the numerical procedure TRANSFER (Coli et al. 2002) that was
developed at LNEC to transfer sea-wave regimes.
3.2 Deterministic modelling of waves and currents
The main objective of this research area is the development and fine tuning of tools /
procedures / numerical models to evaluate the sea-wave regime at coastal regions. For this,
use is made of numerical models that deal with wind-wave generation, such as the alreadymentioned numerical model SWAN, as well as of models for sea-wave propagation and
deformation from offshore to sheltered regions.
Many wave propagation problems in coastal regions can be described by the mild-slope
equation, the scalar equation first introduced by Berkhoff (1972). This equation, which is valid
for both short and long monochromatic waves, evaluates the combined refraction and diffraction
of surface waves propagating over mild-slope bottoms, like those encountered in harbours and
other sheltered zones. At LNEC there are two numerical models which use this equation.
The first one is a numerical model which is freely available on the internet: REFDIF, Dalrymple
& Kirby (1991). It is based on the parabolic version of the mild-slope equation, a feature that
makes it well suited to model coastal areas with a couple of tens of kilometres.
The second model, DREAMS, Fortes (1993), solves the elliptic version of the mild-slope
equation, by using the finite element method. The model can be applied to wave penetration or
resonance studies in harbours or sheltered zones.
However, the mild slope equation does not account for non-linear effects that are particularly
important in the nearshore region, namely strong interactions of waves with the seabed
topography, wave skewness and asymmetry of the wave profile and generation of harmonics.
Nadaoka et al. (1994) present the so-called time-dependent nonlinear mild-slope equation, a
weakly nonlinear and dispersive equation. This equation can describe the combined effects of
nonlinear refraction and diffraction of surface waves over gently-varying depths. At LNEC, there
is a finite-element model FEM_NMSE, Fortes (2001), which is based upon the two- and threedimensional versions of the time-dependent mild-slope equation. Some results were obtained
for nonlinear waves propagating along a wave flume with sloping bottom and they are quite
similar to those published in the literature.
Another approach is to use the Boussinesq-type models that can provide a quite accurate
description of the nonlinear wave phenomena in the nearshore zone. One of these models is
the nonlinear FUNWAVE model which was developed by Kirby et al. (1998) and is based on the
fully non-linear Boussinesq equation developed by Wei et al. (1995). This equation which can
be applied from shallow to intermediate water depth is capable of simulating wave-wave
interactions in shallow water, nonlinear shoaling, wave reflection, wave breaking and swash
oscillations.
The coupling of the several numerical models is being investigated now to allow for the
propagation of sea states from offshore to sheltered regions. This implies the harmonization of
the information transfer among those models and the definition of procedures to facilitate that
transfer.
Since some of the numerical models employed imply the solution of sets of linear equations with
large matrices, there has been some effort in the implementation of more efficient storage
procedures and of iterative methods to solve those equations as well as in the formulation of the
finite-element problem using element-by-element approaches (Santos et al. 2003).
3.3 Navigation and moored ship behaviour
At LNEC, there is a numerical model to simulate the ship manoeuvres at entrance channels and
port areas, Santos (1991). This numerical model, code-named SIMNAV, computes the time
evolution of the ship’s position and heading, taking into account the movements on the
horizontal plane only.
SIMNAV is based on the model of Inoue et al. (1981) and it considers several sources for the
longitudinal and transversal forces, as well as for the yawing moment, that act on the ship: fluid
reaction to the hull movement; the existence of rudder; propeller thrust; wind; waves (horizontal
drift force and yawing moment); currents; tugs.
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The wave forces included in the model are the mean drift forces that can be computed for a
given wave frequency by using the WAMIT numerical model (Newman & Lee 2002) for the
water depth range at the study region.
This numerical model can be used to study two kinds of problems:
- The assessment of the navigation conditions at a given entrance channel, to check its
dimensions;
- The selection of the best layout for an entrance channel.
In the first case, for a given layout and for a set of test conditions, experienced operators make
several voyages. From the statistical treatment of the deviations between the ship trajectories
and the layout axis, exceedance levels can be set for each of the stretches into which the layout
can be divided and from that analysis the most adequate width for a given stretch can be
established.
In the second case, it is more interesting to control the numerical model with an auto-pilot.
Depending on the voyage characteristics, one can select the use of a simple position control
(the ship must be as close as possible to the ideal trajectory) or of a velocity and position control
(in each stretch of the ideal trajectory the ship should have the desired advance speed).
To study the behaviour of moored ships there is at LNEC a numerical package code-named
MOORNAV, Santos (1994). Use is made of the impulse response approach, Cummins (1962),
whose implementation implies the solution, in the frequency domain, of the radiation and
diffraction problems of the free-floating ship. The solution of the linearized radiation and
diffraction problems is obtained by the WAMIT model, which evaluates the potential associated
to each of those problems by means of a panel method.
The impulse-response functions as well as the infinite frequency added-mass coefficients
associated to each of the six degrees of freedom of the free-floating ship are obtained by
Fourier transforming the frequency domain results of the radiation problems. The time series of
the wave forces acting on the ship result from the superposition of the forces due to each of the
incident wave components. That time series, together with the impulse-response functions, the
added-mass coefficients and the characteristics of the mooring system (mooring lines and
fenders) make possible the assembly and solution of the equations of motions for the moored
ship. This is a package which has proved well and is now being modified to include the effects
of all the harbour boundaries in the ship behaviour, instead of the single fully reflective boundary
close to the ship. It is worth mentioning that the numerical models and the scale model testing
technology to study the moored ship behaviour are tools that, in Portugal, are available only at
LNEC.
3.4 Behaviour of maritime structures
This is the research area that is responsible for most of the consultancy activity of the Harbours
and Maritime Structures Division. A great part of that activity is based upon scale-model tests
carried out at the Maritime Hydraulics Testing Hall, Figure 3.
This testing hall has an area of 6,500 square metres and is mostly occupied with testing flumes
and basins for hydraulic model studies. Basins are used for three-dimensional studies of
structure stability and wave penetration. Flumes are used for stability and overtopping tests of
maritime structures.
The main testing facilities at NPE are described in point 6.:
The objectives of the research in this area are to understand and to quantify the wave
propagation and dissipation in maritime structures, to develop methods for the hydraulics and
structural design of these structures and to develop tools for the diagnosis of structures already
in operation.
Some work has been carried out in the characterization of the forces exerted by sea waves on
pipelines protected by rubble-mound structures. Several tests were carried out in collaboration
with the University of Cantabria (Spain) which aimed to analyse the influence of water depth,
wave period, wave height and wave type (regular or irregular) on the forces on the pipeline and
on the armour stability.
Still in this area of forces on structures caused by sea-wave action, one must mention the
analytical models developed for simple schematic perforated breakwater geometries that can be
used in the preliminary design of this type of structures.
The diagnosis of maritime structures in operation is a research topic that emerged as a followup of the contract for the systematic inspection of the rubble-mound structures of the present
Portuguese Port and Maritime Transport Institute, a work that LNEC is carrying out since 1986
and that has focused only on the visual inspection of the emerged parts of the structures. It is
now intended to incorporate in the forecast of the structure evolution the information that can be
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obtained in the surveys of the envelope of both the emerged and submerged parts of the
structures’ armour layer.
In this diagnosis the methodologies for the probabilistic design of rubble-mound structures are
used. At LNEC, there is already a numerical package that uses level II probabilistic methods to
verify the safety of these structures with relation to the hydraulic instability failure mode of the
armour layer (Sousa et al. 2004).
The formulae implemented in that package do not take into account the existence of any initial
damages in the structure, hence they are not the most adequate for the diagnosis of an
operating structure which has not undergone recent repair or maintenance works. More
promising formulae are those of Melby and Kobayashi (1999) for which the damage evolution of
a rubble-mound breakwater at the end of a constant characteristics storm depends on both the
structure initial status and the storm characteristics. Since those formulae are only valid for rockarmoured rubble-mound breakwaters, long duration scale-model tests have to be undertaken in
order to establish the formulae coefficients for other armour layer elements.
Also connected to this area, there has been some work at LNEC, in collaboration with Liverpool
University, on the probabilistic assessment of overtopping risks in urban environments. Tools
are being developed to support the evaluation of maritime structure overtopping, a task that has
been carried out at LNEC with scale-model tests only.
3.5 Risk Management in Maritime Infrastructure
The objective of this research area is to develop, test and validate methodologies, tools and test
beds for risk management in maritime infrastructure, covering both long-term and short-term
(emergency) risk management.
The risks addressed by the team are:
i) Risks in harbour infrastructure related to:
a. Harbour structures
b. Cargo loading and unloading
c. Harbour navigation
d. Moored vessels
ii) Risk of coastal flooding
iii) Risks in coastal structures, submarine outfalls and water intakes.
The main computer tools and underlying methodologies are:
i) An integrated decision-support tool for harbour management, which includes:
a. Forecast service to account for the sea-wave effects inside harbour areas, namely
on the port infrastructure, navigation and operations;
b. Risk assessment (both qualitative and quantitative) and mapping, using GIS
capabilities;
c. Early-warning system to issue warnings to the responsible port institutions;
ii) Two test beds in Sines Harbour and in Praia da Vitória Harbour (Azores), Portugal, to
deal with risk in port infrastructure, navigation and operations;
iii) A tool to store and to analyse data from the Portuguese Programme for Systematic
Observation of Breakwaters, which aims to:
a. store the data collected during LNEC’s campaigns of visual observation of the
emerged part of the breakwaters’ armour layer in the Portuguese coast;
b. carry out a risk assessment of the safety of the structure (both qualitative and
quantitative);
c. provide information to support the decision-making process on the need for repair
works or other mitigation actions;
iv) Tools for design and assessment of the safety of submarine outfalls and water
intakes using probabilistic and optimization methods.
The work is performed in straight collaboration with stakeholders and relevant private/public
authorities who play an active role in risk management in maritime infrastructure, such as
harbour authorities.
The whole work takes into account the impact of climate changes through consideration of
different scenarios and application of probabilistic and optimization models, an approach which
is mandatory in an era of global warming, rising sea levels and increased storminess that may
induce changes in frequency, severity and duration of hazards and extremes, and ultimately
cause changes in risk situations.
Some members of the team have specific academic/professional training on risk management
and on geographical information systems.
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4. STAFF
The Harbours and Maritime Structures Division presently has researchers and technicians,
listed in the table below, and also a variable number of research PhD and MSc. students.
Name
Position
Conceição Juana Fortes
Senior Research Officer
Head of NPE
Maria Teresa Henriques Secretary
Maria Teresa Reis
Research Officer
Rui Capitão
Research Officer
Maria da Graça Neves
Research Officer
Rute Lemos
Higher Research
Technician
Luís Gabriel Silva
Senior Technical Officer
Branca Branco
Technician
Liliana Pinheiro
Fellow Research Trainee
Ana Passarinho
Grant Holder
Joana Simão
Grant Holder
André Ramos
Grant Holder
5. SOME RELEVANT STUDIES
RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT
Current relevant studies
Project Name
Entity
RADE - REMOTE ACCESS TO DATA AND EXPERIMENTS”
Project “Modelling of sea waves and currents”
Project “Navigation and Maritime Structures’ Behaviour”
DESTAQ - Development of Velocity Measurement Advanced Techniques
for the Interaction Analysis between Detached Breakwaters and Harbour
Structures
SPACE – A Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic Model Development and
Validation for Coastal Engineering Applications
HIDRALERTA - FLOOD FORECAST AND ALERT SYSTEM IN
LNEC/NPE
LNEC/NPE
LNEC/NPE
FCT – National
Research Council
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FCT – National
Research Council
FCT – National
COASTAL AND PORT AREAS
HYDRALAB IV – “More than Water” Integrated Infrastructure Initiative
Wave-structure interaction
Research Council
European Union
LNEC/NPE
Relevant studies concluded in the last 10 years
Project Name
Entity
GUIOMAR – Geographical User Interface for Coastal and Marine
Modeling
MOIA – Operational Model for Harbour Management
FCT – National
Research Council
FCT – National
Research Council
FCT – National
Research Council
FCT – National
Research Council
FCT – National
Research Council
FCT – National
Research Council
BRISA – Breaking waves and Induced SAnd transport
Non-linear transformations of maritime waves in harbour areas
Wave-group propagation and long period waves at the coast
Stochastic modelling and simulation of sea waves
Selected commissioned studies (2003-2013)
The most commissioned projects are briefly described in the following table:
Lages harbour - Flores
Island - Azores
(Portugal), 2003/2004
Rehabilitation of the
breakwater of Lajes
harbour. Stability and
overtopping twodimensional scale model
tests.
Lagoa harbour - S. Miguel
island-Azores (Portugal),
2003/2004
Improvement of the wave
conditions into Lagoa
fishing harbour. Stability
and overtopping threedimensional scale model
tests of the new maritime
Works and wave conditions
study.
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Praia da Vitória harbour Terceira island - Azores
(Portugal), 2003/2004
Rehabilitation of the South
breakwater of Praia da
Vitória harbour. Stability
and overtopping twodimensional scale model
tests.
Melilla harbour (Spain)
2003/2004
New protection works of
Melilla harbour (Spain).
Stability and overtopping
two-dimensional scale
model tests for three
different cross-sections.
Punta Langosteria
harbour (Spain), 2004
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional tests of a
winter head for the new
breakwater to protect the
Punta Langosteria harbour.
Figueira da Foz harbour
(Portugal), 2004/2005
Rehabilitation works of the
South breakwater´s head,
which protects the entrance
of Figueira da Foz harbour.
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional scale
model tests.
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Luanco harbour (Spain),
2004/2005
New Luanco´s harbour
(Spain). Stability and
overtopping twodimensional and
three-dimensional scale
model tests. Wave
conditions study.
CEODouro - Douro river
mouth (Portugal),
2004/2006
3D scale model tests for a
wave energy power plant
for the river Douro’s mouth,
in the North of Portugal.
The main goal of the 3D
tests was to study the
hydrodynamic
characteristics of the plant
and to validate the relevant
parameters, such as the
maximum levels attained by
the free surface and by the
pressures developed in the
air chambers.
Figueira da Foz harbour
(Portugal), 2005/2006
Extension of the North
breakwater of Figueira da
Foz harbour. Stability and
overtopping threedimensional scale model
tests.
Póvoa de Varzim harbour
(Portugal), 2005/2006
South breakwater root of
the Póvoa de Varzim
harbour. Stability and
overtopping twodimensional scale model
tests.
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Vila do Porto harbour Sta. Maria island - Azores
(Portugal), 2004/2005
New recreational and
pleasure of Vila do Porto
harbour. Stability and
overtopping threedimensional scale model
tests of the protection
works of Vila do Porto
harbour. Wave conditions
study.
Socorridos, Madeira
(Portugal), 2005/2006
New multi-purpose terminal
of Socorridos. Stability and
overtopping threedimensional scale model
tests and wave conditions
study.
Vila Franca do Campo
fishing harbour - S.
Miguel - Azores
(Portugal), 2006/2007
New Vila Franca do Campo
fishing harbour. Stability
and overtopping three-dimensional scale model
tests of the protection
works. Wave conditions
study.
Ericeira harbour
(Portugal), 2005/2006
Rehabilitation works of the
breakwater of Ericeira
fishing harbour. Stability
and overtopping threedimensional scale model
tests.
S. Mateus harbour Terceira island – Azores
(Portugal), 2006/2007
Improvement of the wave
conditions inside the
fishing harbour basin.
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional scale
model tests of the new
maritime works. Sea wave
conditions study.
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Sines harbour (Portugal),
2006/2007
Extension of the West
breakwater of the Sines
harbour to permit reutilization of a petrol
terminal. Stability and
overtopping twodimensional scale model
tests of three different
cross-sections.
S. Pedro do Estoril
artificial surfing reef
(Portugal), 2009
3D scale models tests for
the implementation of
artificial surf reefs at São
Pedro do Estoril. Analysis
of local surfing conditions.
Amboim Harbour
(Angola), 2009-2010
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional scale
model tests. Sea wave
conditions study.
Expansion of Porto
Novo Harbour, Santo
Antão Island, Cape
Verde (2010)
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional scale
model tests.
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Sal-Rei harbour
protection breakwater
(Cabo Verde), 2010
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional scale
model tests. Pressure
transducer tests.
Detailed Modelling
Studies for Colwyn Bay
Coastal Defence Scheme,
(Wales), 2010
Two-dimensional physical
model tests of the armour
stability and wave
overtopping of eight
different cross-sections of
the rock revetment.
Rabo de Peixe Harbour –
Azores (Portugal), 2011
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional scale
model tests. Sea wave
conditions study.
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Tanger Fishing Harbour,
Morocco, 2012
Stability and overtopping
two-dimensional scale
model tests of the new
Tanger fishing harbour.
Velas Harbour, S. Jorge
Island, Azores (Portugal),
2012
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional scale
model tests.
Poças Harbour, Flores
Island, Azores (Portugal),
2012
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional scale
model tests. Sea wave
conditions study.
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Nacala a Velha Harbour
(Angola), 2012
Stability and overtopping
two-dimensional and threedimensional scale model
tests.
Angeiras Harbour
(Portugal), 2012
Stability and overtopping
three-dimensional scale
model tests. Sea wave
conditions study.
Marina Luanda, Angola
(2013)
Stability and overtopping
two-dimensional and threedimensional scale model
tests.
Sea wave conditions
studies.
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6. EQUIPMENT AND FACILITIES
The Harbours and Maritime Structures Division (NPE) owns the following infrastructures and
equipment:
EXPERIMENTAL FACILITIES
NPE owns a testing hall for hydraulic tests with an area of 6,500 square meters. This hall is
mostly occupied with testing flumes and basins for hydraulic model studies. Basins are used for
three-dimensional studies of structure stability and wave penetration. Flumes are used for
stability and overtopping tests of maritime structures.
The main testing facilities at NPE are:









Wave basin, 16.2 x 6.8 m²;
Wave basin, 38.1 x 15.7 m²;
Wave basin, 44.0 x 23.0 m²;
Wave basin, 30.0 x 19.6 m²;
Four mobile, 6.0 m long, irregular wave generators for use in the wave basins
(maximum water depth: 50 cm);
Two mobile, 6.0 m long, irregular wave generators for use in the wave basins
(maximum water depth: 80 cm);
Regular wave flume, 60 cm wide, 38.0 m long Irregular wave flume, 1.6 m wide, 49.4 m
long, fitted with a wind generating system;
Irregular wave flume, 3.0 m wide, 73.0 m long, with an enlarged, 11.0 x 3.0 m², section
in which it is possible to perform three-dimensional stability tests. This flume is
equipped with a rolling platform crane and it can be divided in three sections;
Large 3-movement rolling platform, which serves 30% of the testing hall.
Wave tanks
Wave flumes
Page 20 of 32
Three motor pump groups for the basin irregular wave generators, which make it possible to
perform three simultaneous three-dimensional tests.
In the testing hall there is a Control Room where a centralised control of the entire irregular
wave flumes and basins resides. This Control Room also receives all electric signals that
convey information from models (resistive probes, force and movement sensors, video,
intercoms). Also in the Control Room resides a computer software package, named SAM, which
includes a set of methods for the characterization and numerical and physical simulation of sea
waves (including wave groups) and processing wave data either from nature or from the wave
flumes and tanks. The software package SAM was recently upgraded with a new sub-module
containing an active wave absorption system which, since was written in LabVIEW language,
was easily embedded into the already existing SAM 3 module. This new sub-module enables
real-time paddle compensation of unwanted reflected waves produced by either the model
being tested or the paddle itself which used to compromise the accuracy of the physical tests
performed in a laboratory environment.
Numerical and physical simulation of waves in flumes/tanks using SAM software.
Page 21 of 32
The table below lists a few more numerical simulation computer programs developed at LNEC.
Program Name
Brief description
ADAPTA
Graphical fit of extreme distributions of wave regimes
ANOI
Wave record analysis
BACKTRACK
Refraction wave propagation model
DREAMS
Refraction-diffraction-reflection wave propagation model
INTERPOL
Interpolation program for the TRANSFER methodology
MOORNAV
Dynamic analysis of moored ship behavior
PARASODE
Probabilistic risks related to overtopping of breakwaters and to dune
erosion
REFRAC
Regular wave propagation model
REFSPEC
Irregular wave propagation model
SIMNAV
Ship maneuvering model
SMB
Wind-wave generation model
Two main software packages were developed at LNEC:
Software Package
Brief description
SOPRO
Characterization of sea waves close to coastal protection structures
and within ports and assessment of their effects on ships manoeuvres
SAM
Numerical and physical wave simulation, data acquisition in scale
model tests and wave generation and absorption control
COMPUTER HARDWARE
At NPE there exist an extensive number of PCs for individual use, all with printers. Two of the
PCs are reserved for secretarial use and the others are linked together through the LNEC
intranet and with a number of other peripheral hardware (printers, plotters, cameras, data
acquisition boards, video equipment, etc.).
There exist also 2 powerful workstations running UNIX and LINUX operating systems to help
the more computing demanding of numerical studies. In the Control Room there are several
PCs, three of them with a data acquisition controller board.
Page 22 of 32
TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE
NPE is assisted by LNEC’s Computing Resources Division, the Centre for Scientific
Instrumentation and the General Maintenance Division, all residing in LNEC’s premises. In
addition, NPE has the support of all of LNEC's operative departments and of the Library,
Printing Office, and Translation Office.
This is the research area that is responsible for most of the consultancy activity of the Harbours
and Maritime Structures Division. A great part of that activity is based upon scale-model tests
carried out at the Maritime Hydraulics Testing Hall.
7. EXTERNAL COLABORATION
NPE cooperates scientifically with a number of both national and international institutions in its
field of expertise. Below are a listed a few selected institutions:
National Institutions
 Faculty of Sciences from the University of Lisbon (Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade
de Lisboa);
 The University of Algarve (Universidade do Algarve);
 Department of Mechanical Engineering of the New University of Lisbon (Universidade
Nova de Lisboa).
 Department of Civil, Electrical and Mechanical Engineering of the Higher Technical Institute
– IST– of the Technical University of Lisbon (Universidade Técnica de Lisboa);
Foreign Institutions
 Several European institutions that participate in the “Integrated Infrastructure Initiative
HYDRALAB III and IV”, where LNEC is also a participating fellow, namely: DHI (Denmark),
HR Wallingford (United Kingdom), Deltares (Holland), Marintek (Norway), IFREMER
(France), Cedex (Spain), etc.;
 Oceanographic and Coastal Engineering Group – GIOC – from the Cantabria University
(Universidad de Cantabria, Spain);
 Maritime Engineering Laboratory of the Polytechnic University of Valencia (Universidad
Politecnica de Valencia, Spain);
 Federal University of Rio de Janeiro (Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Brasil).
 Leeds University (United Kingdom).
 The Foundation of the University of Rio Grande (Fundação Universidade do Rio Grande,
Rio Grande do Sul, Brasil);
8. SOME OF THE MOST RELEVANT AND RECENT (2008-2013)
PUBLICATIONS CONCERNING MODEL SCALE TESTS
2008
Papers in journals
FORTES, C.J.E.M.; NEVES, M.G.; PINHEIRO, L., CAPITÃO, R.; MENDES, L., MONTEIRO, P.;
PALHA, A (2008) - Modelação numérica e física de um recife artificial para surf na praia de S.
Pedro do Estoril. Revista da Engenharia e Vida, Maio.
NEVES, M.G.; REIS, M.T.; LOSADA, I.; HU, K. (2008). Wave overtopping of Póvoa de Varzim
breakwater: physical and numerical simulations. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean
Engineering, ASCE, Vol. 134(4), pp. 226-236. ISSN: 0733-950X.
REIS, M.T.; NEVES, M.G.; HEDGES, T.S. (2008). Investigating the lengths of scale model tests to
determine mean wave overtopping discharges. Coastal Engineering Journal, World Scientific, Vol.
50(4), pp. 441-462. ISSN: 0578-5634.
Page 23 of 32
Papers in conferences
FORTES, C.J.E.M.; NEVES, M.G.; REIS, M.T.; SANTOS, J.A.; CAPITÃO, R.; LEMOS, R.;
PINHEIRO, L.; PALHA, A.; SOUSA, I. (2008) - Physical modelling of wave propagation and
breaking in a flume using different geometric model scales. Proc. CoastLab08, 2nd International
Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection, 2 a 5 de Julho,
Bari, Itália, pp. 237-248.
FORTES, C.J.E.M., NEVES, M.G., MENDONÇA, A., PINHEIRO, L., LEITE, L., MENDES, L.,
MONTEIRO, P., PALHA, A., BICUDO, P., CARDOSO, N. (2008) - An artificial surfing reef in São
Pedro do Estoril beach, Portugal. Numerical and physical modeling studies. 30th International
Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2008, ASCE, Hamburgo, Alemanha, 31 de Agosto a 5
de Setembro (com referee).
FORTES, C.J.E.M.; NEVES, M.G.; PINHEIRO, L.V.; LEITE, L. (2008) - Physical model studies of
an artificial surfing reef in S. Pedro do Estoril beach. Mediterranean Days of Coastal and Port
Engineering. Palermo, Itália, 7 a 9 de Outubro.
FORTES, C.J.E.M.; PINHEIRO, L.; LEMOS, R.; PALHA, A.C.; SANTOS, J.A. (2008) – Modelação
numérica e física da propagação da agitação sobre uma praia com inclinação constante. II
Conferência Nacional de Métodos Numéricos em Mecânica de Fluidos e Termodinâmica,
Universidade de Aveiro, 8 e 9 de Maio.
OKAMOTO, T.; FORTES, C.J.E.M. (2008) – Experimental verification of the maximum vertical
speed of free surface as the wave breaking index. COASTLAB 2008 – Second International
Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection. Bari, Itália, 2 a
5 de Julho de 2008.
PINHEIRO, L. V.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; WALKLEY, M. A. (2008) - Numerical and Physical Wave
Propagation in Vila do Porto Harbour. Mediterranean Days of Coastal and Port Engineering.
Palermo, Itália, 7 a 9 de Outubro.
REIS, M.T.; NEVES, M.G.; FORTES, C.J.E.M. (2008). - Influence of physical model scale in the
simulation of wave overtopping over a coastal structure. Proc. PIANC Mediterranean Days of
Coastal and Port Engineering, 7 a 9 de Outubro, Palermo, Itália.
REIS, M.T.; NEVES, M.G.; HU, K.; TEN VOORDE, M. (2008). Numerical and physical modelling of
wave overtopping over a porous breakwater. Proc. 18th International Offshore (Ocean) and Polar
Engineering Conference (ISOPE), Vancouver, BC, Canada, July 6-11, 2008 (CD-Rom). (com
arbitragem científica)
Technical reports
LEMOS, R.; SILVA, L. G. - Porto da Horta (Ilha do Faial – Açores). Ensaios de agitação em
modelo reduzido, relatório 118/2008 - NPE, Março de 2008. Pág. 40; Qua.: 8; Fig. 4; Fot.: 10
LEMOS, R.; SILVA, L. G. - Ensaios em modelo reduzido da reconstrução do molhe Oeste do porto
de Sines, relatório 141/2008 - NPE, Março de 2008. Pág. 95; Qua.: 9; Fig. 3; Fot.: 103.
LEMOS, R.; SILVA, L. G.; NEVES, M. G. - Correcção do cais para ferries do Porto de Vila do Porto
(Ilha de Santa Maria – Açores). Ensaios em modelo reduzido, relatório 236/2008 - NPE, Junho de
2008. Pág. 65; Qua.: 11; Fig. 9; Fot. 12.
SILVA, L. G.; RITA, M. M. - Quebra-mar do porto da Ericeira - Parecer, Abril de 2008. Pág. 9;
Qua.: 0; Fig. 0; Fot.: 12.
2009
Papers in journals
REIS, M.T.; NEVES, M.G.; HU, K. (2009). Wave overtopping of a porous structure: Numerical and
physical modelling. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 56, pp. 539-543. ISSN: 0749-0258.
LEMOS, R.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; GIL, L.; NEVES, M.G. (2009) – The Influence of the Geometric
Scale Model on the Physical Modelling of the Wave Propagation and Breaking in a Flume. Journal
of Coastal Research, SI56, 1000-1004. ISSN: 0749-0258.
Papers in conferences
FORTES, C.J.E.M.; NEVES, M.G.; LEMOS, R.; REIS, M.T.; SANTOS, J.A.; PINHEIRO, L. (2009).
Projecto COMIBBS: Modelação física da propagação de ondas em frente a uma estrutura costeira.
Proc. 6ªs Jornadas Portuguesas de Engenharia Costeira e Portuária, AIPCN/PIANC, Funchal, 8 e
9 de Outubro de 2009.
FORTES, C.J.E.M.; NEVES, M.G.; SANTOS, J.A., LEMOS, R. (2009) - Composite modelling
methodology for the simulation of wave propagation reaching coastal defences. Preliminary
application. 4th International Short Conference/Course on APPLIED COASTAL RESEARCH. LIM
– Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC). Barcelona, Espanha, 15-17 de June
Page 24 of 32
OKAMOTO, T.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; NEVES, M.G. (2009) – Análise das velocidades horizontais na
simulação da rebentação sobre um perfil barra-fossa. III Conferência Nacional em Mecânica de
Fluidos, Termodinâmica e Energia (MEFTE – BRAGANÇA 09), Bragança, 17 e 18 de Setembro de
2009
REIS, M.T.; NEVES, M.G.; HU, K.; LOPES, M.R.; SILVA, L.G. (2009). Final rehabilitation of Sines
west breakwater: physical and numerical modelling of overtopping. Proc. 9th Coasts, Marine
Structures and Breakwaters: Adapting to Change, 16 a 18 de Setembro, Edimburgo, W. Allsop
(Ed.), Thomas Telford, London, Vol. 2, pp. 636-647; discussão: pp. 671-672. ISBN: 978-0-72774131-8 (com arbitragem científica).
Technical reports
LEMOS, R.; SILVA, L. G. - Porto da Madalena (Ilha do Pico – Açores). Ensaios em modelo
reduzido, relatório 26/2009 – NPE, Fevereiro de 2009. Pág. 145; Qua.: 50; Fig. 11; Fot.: 46.
OLIVEIRA, F.; FREIRE, P.; SANCHO, F.; SILVA, L. G.; GRAHAM, S.; HU, K.; WINFIELD, P. Detailed Modelling Studies for Colwin Bay Coastal Defence Scheme. Inception Report, September
2009. Pág. 77; Qua.: 3; Fig. 40; Fot.: 0.
SILVA, L. G. - Ensaios em modelo reduzido de estabilidade e galgamentos do prolongamento do
molhe Norte da entrada da Ria de Aveiro, relatório 133/2009 – NPE, Abril de 2009. Pág. 35; Qua.:
11; Fig. 14; Fot.: 13.
SILVA, L. G. - 1ª Fase da expansão do porto de Palmeira (Ilha do Sal – Cabo Verde). Ensaios de
estabilidade e galgamentos em modelo reduzido. Ensaios adicionais, relatório 276/2009 – NPE,
Setembro de 2009. Pág. 15; Qua.: 4; Fig. 2; Fot.: 9.
SILVA, L. G. - Porto da Horta (Ilha do Faial – Açores). Ensaios de estabilidade e galgamentos de
troços singulares do quebra-mar Norte, relatório 145/2009 – NPE, Maio de 2009. Pág. 55; Qua.:
10; Fig. 9; Fot.: 52.
SILVA, L. G. - 1ª Fase da expansão do porto de Palmeira (Ilha do Sal – Cabo Verde). Ensaios de
estabilidade e galgamentos em modelo reduzido, relatório 228/2009 – NPE, Julho de 2009. Pág.
65; Qua.: 18; Fig. 5; Fot.: 70
SILVA, L. G. - Jamestown Harbour (Santa Helena Island). Wave disturbance tests, relatório
310/2009 – NPE, Outubro de 2009. Pág. 25; Qua.: 12; Fig. 3; Fot.: 8
SILVA, L. G. - Ensaios em modelo reduzido de estabilidade e galgamentos do prolongamento do
molhe Norte da entrada da Ria de Aveiro. Ensaios adicionais, relatório 317/2009 – NPE, Outubro
de 2009. Pág. 20; Qua.: 7; Fig. 3; Fot.: 8.
SILVA, L. G.; NEVES, M. G. - Porto da Horta (Ilha do Faial – Açores). Ensaios esquemáticos para
avaliação da reflexão e da transmissão de uma estrutura transparente, relatório 235/2009 – NPE,
Julho de 2009. Pág. 20; Qua.: 3; Fig. 3; Fot.: 5.
2010
Theses
LEMOS, R.- Verificação de Fórmulas para a Evolução da Erosão em Quebra mares de
Taludes. Tese de Mestrado em Engenharia Civil. Instituto Superior de Engenharia de Lisboa,
Lisboa, Janeiro de 2010.
Papers in conferences
D’ALESSANDRO, F.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; ILIC, S.; JAMES, M.; SANCHO, F.; SCHÜTTRUMPF,
H.;TOMASICCHIO, G.R. (2010) – Wave storm induced dune erosion and overwash in largescale flume experiments. Proceedings of thw HYDRALAB III Joint User Meeting, Hannover,
February. ISBN-978-3-00-030141-4
LEMOS, R.; SANTOS, J.A. - “Measuring Armour Layer Erosion in Scale Model Tests”CoastLab2010 – Barcelona – Espanha, Outubro de 2010
LEMOS, R.; SANTOS, J.A. – “Verificação de fórmulas para a Evolução da Erosão em taludes de
Quebra-mares”- XXIV Congresso Latino-americano de Hidráulica. Punta del Este - Uruguai,
Novembro de 2010
MENDONÇA, A.; PROENÇA, B.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; NEVES, M.G. (2010) - Modelação numérica
e física de um recife artificial para surf na praia de S. Pedro do Estoril. Revista Gestão Costeira,
Volume 10, N. 1 - Março. APRH/UNIVALI. ISSN: 1646-8872.
REIS, M.T.; NEVES, M.G.; SILVA, L.G.; WILLIAMS, A.; HU, K.; WINFIELD, P. (2010). Physical
model tests of new linear defences for Colwyn Bay. Proc. CoastLab10, 3rd International
Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection, 28 de
Setembro a 1 de Outubro, Barcelona, Espanha.
Page 25 of 32
Technical reports
LEMOS, R.; SILVA, L. G. - Porto Amboim harbour (Angola). Wave disturbance scale model tests,
relatório 406/2010 – NPE, Dezembro de 2010.Pág. 20; Qua.: 1; Fig. 5; Fot.: 0.
LEMOS, R.; SILVA, L. G. - Porto Amboim harbour (Angola). Stability and overtopping scale model
tests of a new breakwater. Complementary tests, relatório 407/2010 – NPE, Dezembro de
2010.Pág. 20; Qua.: 6; Fig. 10; Fot.: 0.
LEMOS, R.; SILVA, L. G.; NEVES, M. G. - Porto Amboim harbour (Angola). Stability and
overtopping scale model tests of a new breakwater, Relatório 307/2010 – NPE, Setembro de
2010.Pág. 105; Qua.: 39; Fig. 38; Fot.: 0.
NEVES, D.; ENDRES, L.A.M.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; OKAMOTO, T. – Metodologias de análise dos
ensaios em modelo físico. Relatório BRISA 02/2010 Novembro de 2010.
NEVES, D.; ENDRES, L.A.M.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; OKAMOTO, T. – Análise da rebentação de
ondas. Compilação e tratamento dos dados obtidos nos ensaios em modelo físico. Relatório
BRISA 05/2010 Dezembro de 2010.
NEVES, M. G.; SILVA, L. G. - Ensaios em modelo reduzido da Marina Pêro de Teive (Ponta
Delgada – Açores). Avaliação das pressões na laje do novo Terminal de Cruzeiros, relatório
141/2010 – NPE, Abril de 2010.Pág. 20; Qua.: 3; Fig. 5; Fot.: 0.
REIS, M. T.; NEVES, M. G.; SILVA, L. G. - Detailed Modelling Studies for Colwyn Bay Coastal
Defence Scheme. Physical model tests of new linear defences, relatório 214/2010 – NPE, Junho
de 2010. Pág. 65; Qua.: 18; Fig. 15; Fot.: 18.
SILVA, L. G. - Porto da Horta (Ilha do Faial – Açores). Ensaios de estabilidade e galgamentos de
um perfil alternativo para o Quebra-mar Norte, relatório 143/2010 – NPE, Abril de 2010.Pág. 25;
Qua.: 7; Fig. 2; Fot.: 16.
SILVA, L. G. - Ensaios em modelo reduzido da marina Pêro de Teive (Ponta Delgada - Açores,
relatório 241/2010 NPE, Julho de 2010.Pág. 60; Qua.: 26; Fig. 8; Fot.: 19.
SILVA, L. G.; REIS, M. T. - Construção da expansão do porto de Sal-Rei – 1ª fase (Ilha da
Boavista – Cabo Verde). Ensaios bidimensionais em modelo reduzido, Parecer Técnico, Maio de
2010. Pág. 10; Qua.: 0; Fig. 0; Fot.: 8.
SILVA, L. G.; REIS, M. T. - Construção da expansão do porto de Sal-Rei – 1ª fase (Ilha da
Boavista – Cabo Verde). Ensaios bidimensionais em modelo reduzido, relatório 242/2010 - NPE,
Julho de 2010. Pág. 25; Qua.: 2; Fig. 2; Fot.: 23.
SILVA, L. G. - Molhe Norte do Douro. Parecer sobre anomalias no seu funcionamento, relatório
333/2010 – NPE, Outubro de 2010. Pág. 40; Qua.: 4; Fig. 3; Fot.: 23. CD.
SILVA, L. G.; NEVES, M. G. - Expansão do porto de Porto Novo (Ilha de Santo Antão – Cabo
Verde). Ensaios em modelo reduzido, relatório 410/2010 – NPE, Dezembro de 2010. Pág. 50;
Qua.: 9; Fig. 11; Fot.: 70.
SILVA, L. G. - Expansão do porto de Porto Novo (Ilha de Santo Antão – Cabo Verde). Ensaios em
modelo reduzido, Parecer Técnico, Julho de 2010. Pág. 23; Qua.: 0; Fig. 5; Fot.: 27.
SILVA, L. G.; NEVES, M. G. - Expansão do porto de Porto Novo (Ilha de Santo Antão – Cabo
Verde). Ensaios em modelo reduzido, relatório 410/2010 – NPE, Dezembro de 2010. Pág. 50;
Qua.: 9; Fig. 11; Fot.: 70.
2011
Chapters in books
GERRITSEN, H.; SUTHERLAND, J.; SANTOS, J.A.; VAN DEN BOOGAARD, H.; CAÍRES, S.;
DEIGAARD, R.; DIXEN, M.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; FREDSOE, J.; FREIRE, P.; VAN GENT, M.;
GIRONELLA, X.; GRUNE, J.; GRUNNET, N.; JENSEN, P.M.; LEMOS, R.; NEVES, M.G.;
OBHRAI, C.; OLIVEIRA, F.; OLIVEIRA, T.; OUMERACI, H.; PALHA, A.; PINHEIRO, L.; SCHMIDTKOPPENHAGEN, R.; SCHMIDTKE, U.; REIS, M.T.; RITA, M.M.; SANCHO, F.; SIERRA, J.-P.;
SOUSA, I.; SUMER, B.M. (2011). Chapter Six (Composite Modelling) in Users Guide to Physical
Modelling and Experimenation: Experience of the HYDRALAB Network. IAHR Design Manual, L.E.
Frostick, S.J. McLelland & T.G. Mercer (Eds.), CRC Press/Balkema, Leiden, The Netherlands, pp.
171-219 (ISBN 978-0-415-60912-8).
KIRKENGAARD, J.; SANCHEZ ARCILLA, A.; BTETELER, M.; CAPITÃO, R.; DOORN, N.;
FORTES, C.J.E.M.; SCHÄFFER, H.; SCHMITT-KOPPENHAGEN; STANSBERG, C.;
SUTHERLAND, C. (2011). Chapter Two (Waves) of the Users Guide to Physical Modelling and
Experimentation. IAHR Design Manual, CRC Press, ISBN 978-0-415-60912-8, P. 19-38.
WOLTER, G.; ALLSOP, W.; HAMM, L.; MÜHLESTEIN, VAN GENT, M.; BONTHOUX, L.;
KIRKENGAARD; CAPITÃO, R.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; GIRONELLA, X.; PINHEIRO, L.; SANTOS, J.;
SOUSA, I. (2011). Chapter Three (Breakwaters) of the Users Guide to Physical Modelling and
Experimenation. IAHR Design Manual, CRC Press, ISBN 978-0-415-60912-8, P. 39-66.
Page 26 of 32
Papers in journals
MENDONÇA, A.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; CAPITAO, R.; NEVES, M.G.; MOURA, T.; ANTUNES DO
CARMO, J. (2011) - Wave hydrodynamics around a multi-functional artificial reef at Leirosa.
Journal of Coastal Conservation. ISSN: 1400-0350.
REIS, M.T.; NEVES, M.G.; LOPES, M.R.; HU, K.; SILVA, L.G. (2011). Rehabilitation of Sines West
Breakwater: wave overtopping study. Maritime Engineering Journal, Proc. ICE, Vol. 164(MA1), pp.
15 32. ISSN: 1741-7597.
Papers in conferences
LUÍS, L.; FREIRE, S.C.; REIS, M.T.; RODRIGUES, E.; SILVA, G. (2011). Ampliação do porto de
pesca de Rabo de Peixe, São Miguel, Açores. Estudos, projectos e ensaios físicos tridimensionais.
Proc. 7ªs Jornadas Portuguesas de Engenharia Costeira e Portuária, AIPCN/PIANC, Porto, 6 e 7
de Outubro de 2011.
LOPES, H.G.; PINTO, F.T.; VELOSO GOMES, F.; CABRAL, J.P.; SANCHÉZ, R.M.; NEVES, M.G.;
REIS, M.T. (2011). Análise Bidimensional do Comportamento Hidrodinâmico de Estruturas
Costeiras Através de Ferramentas de Processamento de Imagem. Proc. 7ªs Jornadas
Portuguesas de Engenharia Costeira e Portuária, AIPCN/PIANC, Porto, 6 e 7 de Outubro de 2011.
MASE, H.; YASUDA, T.; MORI, N.; MATSUSHITA, H.; REIS, M.T. (2011). Effects of wave
steepness and wave breaking on stability of wave dissipating blocks. Proc. 6th International
Conference on Coastal Structures, 5 a 9 de Setembro, Yokohama, Japão. (com arbitragem
científica).
NEVES, D.R.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; ENDRES, L:A:M:; OKAMOTO, T. (2011) – Modelação física da
propagação e rebentação de ondas num canal. 7as Jornadas Portuguesas de Engenharia
Costeira e Portuária, Porto, 6 e 7 de Outubro.
REIS, M.T.; NEVES, M.G.; LOPES, M.R.; SILVA, L.G. (2011). Estudos de galgamento do Molhe
Oeste do Porto de Sines. Proc. 7ªs Jornadas Portuguesas de Engenharia Costeira e Portuária,
AIPCN/PIANC, Porto, 6 e 7 de Outubro de 2011.
SILVA, L.G. (2011). Estudos de hidráulica marítima em modelo físico reduzido realizados no
LNEC. Passado, presente e futuro. Proc. 7ªs Jornadas Portuguesas de Engenharia Costeira e
Portuária, AIPCN/PIANC, Porto, 6 e 7 de Outubro de 2011.
Technical reports
LEMOS, R.; SILVA, L. G. - Porto de Pesca Tânger (Marrocos). Ensaios bidimensionais em modelo
reduzido, Relatório 235/2011 – NPE, Julho de 2011. Pág. 50; Qua.: 12; Fig. 9; Fot.: 27.
REIS, M. T.; NEVES, M. G.; SILVA, L. G. - Construção da expansão do porto de Sal-Rei (Ilha da
Boavista – Cabo Verde) – 1ª fase. Ensaios tridimensionais em modelo reduzido, relatório 74/2011NPE, Fevereiro de 2011. Pág. 50; Qua.: 13; Fig. 10; Fot.: 33.
REIS, M. T.; SILVA, L. G.; NEVES, M. G.; LEMOS, R. - Obras de expansão do porto de pesca de
Rabo de Peixe (Ilha de São Miguel - Açores). Ensaios em modelo reduzido, relatório 247/2011NPE, Julho de 2011. Pág. 95; Qua.: 51; Fig. 11; Fot.: 62.
SILVA, L. G. - Ensaios em modelo reduzido do Porto da Madalena (Ilha do Pico – Açores),
Relatório 241/2011 – NPE, Julho de 2011. Pág. 45; Qua.: 12; Fig. 4; Fot.: 31.
SILVA, L. G.; REIS, M. T. - Construção da expansão do porto de Sal-Rei – 1ª fase (Ilha da
Boavista – Cabo Verde). Ensaios tridimensionais em modelo reduzido. Relatório de progresso,
relatório 5/2011-NPE, Janeiro de 2011. Pág. 10; Qua.: 0; Fig. 0; Fot.: 8.
2012
Papers in journals
MENDONÇA, A., FORTES, C.J.E.M., CAPITÃO, R., NEVES, M.G., ANTUNES Do CARMO, J.S.,
MOURA, T. (2012). Hydrodynamics around an Artificial Surfing Reef at Leirosa, Portugal: A Case
Study. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE
(doi:10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000128).
NEVES D. R.C.B., ENDRES L.A.M., FORTES C.J.E.M., OKAMOTO T. (2012). Directional
Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking. Ocean Engineering
Journal, Elsevier, 55, 148–160 (http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2012.07.016)
DAVYT D.P., TEIXEIRA P.R.F., RAMALHAIS R., DIDIER, E. (2012). Numerical simulation of wave
action over a wave energy device of the oscillating wave column type. Revista de Ciências Exatas
e Engenharias, ISSN 0102-7352, 21(1), pp 51-71.
OLIVEIRA, F.S.B.F., REIS, M.T., FREIRE, P., NEVES, M.G., SANCHO, F., SILVA, L.G.,
CLÍMACO, M., VICENTE, C.M. (2012). Aplicação de Modelação Numérica e Física para o Estudo
da Reabilitação e Proteção da Praia de Colwyn Bay, País de Gales, Reino Unido. Revista de
Page 27 of 32
Gestão Costeira Integrada (Journal of Integrated Coastal Zone Management), Vol. 12(3), pp. 323
342. ISSN: 1646-8872.
MASE, H.; TAMADA, T.; YASUDA, T.; HEDGES, T.S.; REIS, M.T. (2012). Wave runup and
overtopping at seawalls buit on land and in very shallow water. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal,
and Ocean Engineering, ASCE. ISSN: 0733-950X. (accepted)
Papers in conferences
FORTES, C.J.E.M., SANTOS, J.A., PINHEIRO, L.V., CAPITÃO, R., REIS, M.T., NEVES, M.G.,
SILVA, L.G., LUÍS, L., TITO, T., CARVALHO, R., VAZ, J. (2012). Port studies in Portugal:
Numerical and physical modelling tools. Proc. PIANC 2nd Mediterranean Days of Coastal and Port
Engineering, 23 a 25 de maio, Valência, Espanha, Asociación Técnica de Puertos y Costas
(ATPyC), pp. 343-364.
NEVES, D.R.C.B., ENDRES, L., FORTES, C.J.E.M., OKAMOTO T. (2011). Physical modelling of
wave propagation and wave breaking in a wave channel. Proc. 5th International Short Conference
on Applied Coastal Research (SCACR), 6 a 9 de junho, Aachen, Alemanha. (Publicado em 2012)
NEVES, D.R.C.B., DIDIER, E., REIS, M.T., NEVES M.G. (2012). Overtopping of a porous structure
using a Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics Numerical Model. Proceedings of the 4rd International
Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection, CoastLab 12,
Ghent, Belgium
CONDE, J.M.P., FORTES, C.J.E.M., DIDIER, E., NEVES, D.R.C.B (2012). A contribution to the
study of wave propagation and wave breaking: Physical and numerical modeling. Proceedings of
the 4rd International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal
Protection, CoastLab 12, Ghent, Belgium
CAPITÃO, R., CONDE, J.M. (2012). Implementing the AWASYS wave absorption system in a
peculiar wave flume. Proceedings of the 4rd International Conference on the Application of
Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection, CoastLab 12, Ghent, Belgium.
DIDIER, E., NEVES, D.R.C.B., Martins, R., Neves, M.G. (2012). Modelação de um quebra-mar de
talude impermeável: comparação entre modelo numérico SPH e modelo físico. Proc. V Seminário
e Workshop em Engenharia Oceânica – V SEMENGO, ISBN 978-85-7566-236-7, 7 a 9 de
novembro, Rio Grande, RS-Brasil, pp. 71-83.
CONDE, J.M.P, REIS R., FORTES, C.J.E.M., NEVES, D.R.C.B. (2012). Modelação Física da
Propagação de Ondas em um Canal. Proc. V Seminário e Workshop em Engenharia Oceânica – V
SEMENGO, ISBN 978-85-7566-236-7, 7 a 9 de novembro, Rio Grande, RS-Brasil.
Technical reports
LEMOS, R.L., SILVA, L.G., NEVES, G.,CAPITÃO, R. (2012) - Nacala a Velha Harbour. Twodimensional Scale Model Tests. Report 132/2012, NPE, LNEC, 2012.
REIS, M.T., SILVA, L.G. (2012). Ensaios em modelo reduzido do Porto das Poças (Ilha das Flores
– Açores). Relatório 173/2012, NPE, LNEC, 2012
LEMOS, R.L., SILVA, LG, NEVES, M.G. (2012). Porto de São Roque (Ilha do Pico-Açores).
Relatório 243/2012, NPE, LNEC, 2012.
SILVA, L.G., NEVES, M.G. (2012). Ensaios em modelo reduzido do Núcleo de pesca do Porto da
Madalena. Relatório 28/2012, DHA/NPE, LNEC, Lisboa, Fevereiro de 2012.
LEMOS, R., FORTES, C.J.E.M., CAPITÃO, R. (2012). Remote Access to Experimental Facilities.
RADE – Fourth and Fifth Experiences on Remote Access. HYDRALAB IV report, Novembro de
2012, Lisboa.
2013
Papers in journals
ROCHA, M.V.L., SILVA, P.A., MICHALLET, H., ABREU, T., MOURA, D., FORTES, C.J.E.M.,
(2013). Parameterizations of wave nonlinearity from local wave parameters: a comparison with field
data In: Conley, D.C., Masselink, G., Russell, P.E. and O’Hare, T.J. (eds.), Proceedings 12th
International Coastal Symposium (Plymouth, England), Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue
No. 65, pp. xxx-xxx, ISSN 0749-0208.
PINHEIRO L.V; SANTOS, J.A.; FORTES, C.J.E.M. (2013). “Simulação numérica do
comportamento de navios amarrados em bacias abrigadas”, VETOR - Revista de Ciências Exatas
e Engenharias, Rio Grande, v.23, n.1, ISSN IMPRESSO: 0102-7352.
ROCHA, T., FORTES, C.J.E.M., REIS, M.T., Santos, J.A., Neves, D.R.C.B., Portela L., Taveira
Pinto, F. (2013). “Avaliação Comparativa do Risco de Galgamentos na Praia da Vitória, Terceira,
Açores”, VETOR - Revista de Ciências Exatas e Engenharias, Rio Grande, v.23, n.1, pp. 104-120.
ISSN IMPRESSO: 0102-7352.
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ROCHA, M.V.L.; COELHO, C.; FORTES, C.J.E.M. (2013). Numerical modeling of groin impact on
nearshore hydrodynamics, Ocean Engineering, 74, 260–275 pp,
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2013.03.009.
DIDIER, E.;, MARTINS, R. ; NEVES M.G. (2013). Numerical and Experimental Modeling of
Regular Wave Interacting with Composite Breakwater, Journal of Offshore and Polar Engineering,
Vol. 23, Nº 1, March 2013.
MENDONÇA, A.; LOSADA, M.A.; REIS, M.T.; NEVES M.G. (2013). Risk assessment in submarine
outfall projects: The case of Portugal, Journal of Environmental Management, 116 (2013) 186-195,
Agosto 2013.
MASE, H.; TAMADA, T.; YASUDA, T.; HEDGES, T.S.; REIS, M.T. (2013). “Wave runup and
overtopping at seawalls built on land and in very shallow water”. Journal of Waterway, Port,
Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, Vol. 139(5), pp. 346-357. ISSN: 1943-5460. DOI:
10.1061/ (ASCE) WW.1943-5460.0000199.
RAPOSEIRO, P.D.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; CAPITÃO, R.; REIS, M.T.; FERREIRA, J.C.; PEREIRA,
M.T.S.; GUERREIRO, J. (2013). “Preliminary phases of the HIDRALERTA system: Assessment of
the flood levels at S. João da Caparica beach, Portugal”. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 65, pp.
808-813. ISSN: 0749-0208 DOI: 10.2112/SI65-137.1
TEIXEIRA, P.R.F.; DAVYT, D.P.; DIDIER, E.; RAMALHAIS, R. (2013). Numerical simulation of an
oscillating water column device using a code based on NaviereStokes equations, Revista Energy,
Volume 61, 513-530pp. ISSN: 0360-5442. doi.org/10.1016/j.energy.2013.08.062
MATOS, M.F.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; AMARO, V.; SCUDELARI, A.C. (2013). Análise Comparativa
da Agitação Obtida com o Modelo Numérico (SWAN) na Modelagem de Ondas do Litoral
Setentrional do Rio Grande do Norte, Brasil e Dados de Campo. Revista da Gestão Costeira
Integrada 13(3): 283-299 pp. http://www.aprh.pt/rgci/pdf/rgci-378_Matos.pdf| DOI:10.5894/ rgci378.
NEVES, M.G.; DIDIER, E.; ROBERT, M.; LOSADA, I.J. (2013). Reducción de la reflexión en el
interior des puerto de Vila do Porto, Azores. RIBIM - Revista Iberoamericana de Ingeniería
Mecánica, Vol. 17(2), 139-148 pp. ISSN 1137-2729.
MUÑOZ-PEREZ, J. J.; ROMAN-SIERRA, J.; NAVARRO-PONS, M.; NEVES, M.G.; del CAMPO, J.
M. (2013) Comments on “Confirmation of beach accretion by grain-size trend analysis: Camposoto
beach, Cádiz, SW Spain” by E. Poizot et al. (2013). Geo-Marine Letters 33(4). ISSN: 1432-1157 .
doi:10.1007/s00367-013-0344-0
Papers in conferences
LEMOS, R.; SILVA, L.G (2013). “LNEC experience in maritime hydraulic studies. scale model tests
and recent damage assessment techniques”. Proc. PIANC 3nd Mediterranean Days of Coastal and
Port Engineering, 22 a 24 de Maio, Marseille, França.
PINHEIRO L.V; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; SANTOS, J.A.; FERNANDES J.L.M. (2013). “Numerical
software package SWAMS – Simulation of Wave Action on Moored Ships”. Proc. PIANC 3nd
Mediterranean Days of Coastal and Port Engineering, 22 a 24 de Maio, Marseille, França.
INVERNO, J.; NEVES, M.G.; DIDIER E. (2013). “Numerical simulation of wave interacting with a
submarine outfall using IH-2VOF”. 6th SCACR – International Short Course/Conference on Applied
Coastal Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa.
RODRIGUES, S.; NASCIMENTO, M.F.; FONSECA, N.; SANTOS, J.A.; NEVES, C.F. (2013).
“Numerical simulation study on the propagation of waves generated by vessels using a modified
version FUNWAVE”. 6th SCACR – International Short Course/Conference on Applied Coastal
Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa.
VIEIRA, A.S.; MACIEL G.F.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; MINUSSI, C.R.; SOBRINHO, M. DALL’AGLIO
(2013). “Comparative analysis of the SWAN numerical model predictions and of the pressure
sensor measurements at the Ilha solteira Lake”. 6th SCACR – International Short
Course/Conference on Applied Coastal Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa.
REIS, M.T.; HEDGES, T.S.; NEVES, S.; NEVES, M.G.; HU, K.; MASE, H. (2013). “Extending the
H&R wave overtopping model to vertical structures”. 6th SCACR – International Short
Course/Conference on Applied Coastal Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa.
CAPITÃO, R.; NEVES, M.G.;.FORTES, C.J.E. M.; PINHEIRO, L. (2013). “An analysis of the
response of Sines’ terminal XXI basin to long waves’ action”. 6th SCACR – International Short
Course/Conference on Applied Coastal Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa.
LEMOS, R.; SANTOS, J.A. (2013). “Photogrammetric profile survey in scale model tests of rubblemound breakwaters”. 6th SCACR – International Short Course/Conference on Applied Coastal
Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa.
MENDONÇA, A.; SOLARI, S.; LOSADA, M.A.; NEVES M.G.; REIS, M.T. (2013). “A tool for the
design optimization and management of submarine outfall projects: application to a portuguese
case-study”. 6th SCACR – International Short Course/Conference on Applied Coastal Research, 4
a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa.
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BRAVO, A.A.; SANTOS, J.A.; REIS, M.T. (2013). “Comparison of two wave overtopping calculation
tools based on neural network analysis”. 6th SCACR – International Short Course/Conference on
Applied Coastal Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa.
REIS, R.; GABRIEL, S.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; MOURA, D. (2013). “Contribution for the assessment
of the wave characteristics at galé beach: evaluation of two modeling approaches”. 6th SCACR –
International short Course/Conference on Applied Coastal Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC,
Lisboa.
LEMOS, R.; SANTOS, J.A. (2013). “Photogrammetric profile survey in scale model tests of rubblemound breakwaters”. 6th SCACR – International Short Course/Conference on Applied Coastal
Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa.
CONDE, J.M.P.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; DIDIER E. R. LEMOS, R.; REIS, R. (2013). “Physical
modelling of bichromatic wave propagation and wave breaking in a wave flume”. 6th SCACR –
International Short Course/Conference on Applied Coastal Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC,
Lisboa.
CONDE, J.M.P.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; DIDIER E. R. LEMOS, R.; REIS, R. (2013). “Physical
modelling of bichromatic wave propagation and wave breaking in a wave flume”. 6th SCACR –
International Short Course/Conference on Applied Coastal Research, 4 a 7 de Junho, LNEC,
Lisboa.
LOPES, H.; TAVEIRA PINTO, F.; VELOSO GOMES, F.; CHINA, R.; CABRAL, J.; GADELHO, J.;
NEVES, M.G.; REIS, M.T. (2013). “Laboratory techniques – image processing tools on physical
model tests”. 6th SCACR – International Short Course/Conference on Applied Coastal Research, 4
a 7 de Junho, LNEC, Lisboa
SANTOS, F.L.; REIS, M.T.; FORTES, C.J.; LOTUFO, A.D.P.; MACIEL, G.F. (2013). “Rede
ARTMAP Nebulosa Aplicada ao Estudo de Agitação Marítima no Porto de Sines/Portugal”. Proc.
1st BRICS Countries Congress (BRICS-CCI) and 11th CBIC Brazilian Congress on Computational
Intelligence, September 8th-11th, Recife, Brazil, 2013.
PINHEIRO, L.V.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; SANTOS, J.A.; FERNANDES J.L.M. (2013). “Numerical
simulation of the behaviour of a moored ship inside an open coast harbour” V International
Conference on Computational Methods in Marine Engineering, MARINE 2013, 29 a 31 de Maio,
Hamburgo, Alemanha.
Technical reports
LEMOS, R.; FORTES, C.J.E.M.; CAPITÃO, R. (2013). “RADE – Sixth Experience on Remote
Access”. Report HYDRALAB IV no. 1/2013, LNEC, Lisboa.
LEMOS, R.; CAPITÃO, R.; FORTES, C.J.E.M. (2013). “RADE – Seventh Experience on Remote
Access”. Report HYDRALAB IV no. 2/2013, June, LNEC, Lisboa.
REIS, R.; FORTES, C.J.E.M. (2013). “Aplicação do modelo SWAN na caracterização da agitação
marítima: Praia da Galé”. Relatório EROS no. 1/2013, Janeiro, LNEC, Lisboa.
AFONSO; C.; NEVES, M.G.; REIS, M.T.; OLIVEIRA, J. (2013). Adaptações para Reforçar a
Estabilidade de Emissários Submarinos em Terrenos Lodosos. Relatório Técnico-Científico
Intercalar. Projeto nº 2012/23027 - AREDIS. WW - Consultores de Hidráulica e Obras Marítimas,
S.A. e LNEC, maio.
FORTES, C.J.E.M.; REIS, M.T.; SILVA, L.G.; PINHEIRO, L. (2013). “Caracterização das
condições de dinâmica costeira e avaliação dos impactes da construção da Marina Luanda.
Estudo III: Análise das condições de agitação marítima no interior da marina e análise da
estabilidade e galgamentos da obra principal de proteção da marina”. Relatório 192/2013 – NPE,
LNEC, Lisboa, junho de 2013.
SILVA, L.G.; REIS, M.T. (2013). “Caracterização das condições de dinâmica costeira e avaliação
dos impactes da construção da Marina Luanda. Estudo III: Análise das condições de agitação
marítima no interior da marina e análise da estabilidade e galgamentos da obra principal de
proteção da marina. Ensaios adicionais. Relatório Final”. Relatório 225/2013 – NPE, LNEC, Lisboa,
julho de 2013.
AFONSO; C.; NEVES, M.G.; REIS, M.T.; OLIVEIRA, J. (2013). Adaptações para Reforçar a
Estabilidade de Emissários Submarinos em Terrenos Lodosos. 2º Relatório Técnico-Científico
Intercalar. Projeto nº 2012/23027 - AREDIS. WW - Consultores de Hidráulica e Obras Marítimas,
S.A. e LNEC, novembro.
SILVA, L.G.; REIS, M.T.; NEVES, M.G. (2013). “Caracterização das condições de dinâmica
costeira e avaliação dos impactes da construção da Marina Luanda - Ensaios de agitação em
modelo reduzido da marina”. Relatório 404/2013 – NPE, LNEC, Lisboa, dezembro de 2013.
LEMOS, R. (2013). “Modelação computacional em MATLAB. Dos fundamentos às aplicações”.
Relatório 04/2013 – HIDRALERTA, LNEC, Novembro, LNEC, Lisboa.
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9. FINAL REMARKS
Nowadays, LNEC’s Harbours and Maritime Structures Division has a staff of 12 people, of
which 8 have a University degree and of these 4 hold a Ph. D degree. In this division there has
been a lot of high-level consultancy work related to harbour research activities commissioned by
both Portuguese and foreign institutions.
To improve the results from scale-model testing a stereo-photogrammetry tool that
compensates for the air-water interface at the flume was developed at the Institute for Systems
and Robotics, from the Lisbon Technical University, and is now in its final testing stage. It is
expected that more quantitative information related to armour layer stability can be extracted in
an easy way (without emptying the wave flume or the wave basin) during scale model tests with
rubble-mound structures.
The integration of the results from numerical and scale model tests is to be achieved through
the development of an early-warning system for the safety of navigation, port operations and
port infrastructure, that has just started.
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