S UAV E sauvignons Reporting on this latest addition to The Drinks Business Global Masters series, Gabriel Stone reports how the quality and style range of some of the wines had our judges talking 28 SAUVIGNON BLANC is undoubtedly one of the biggest success stories for the wine industry in recent years. While Sancerre has long been a staple of fridges and wine lists around the world, the vivacious, aromatic expressions unleashed by the New World in particular have catapulted this grape variety to a whole new level of consumer awareness. The latest report to July 2014 from the Wine & Spirits Trade Association shows that, in the UK at least, Sauvignon Blanc remains on a firm upward trajectory. What’s more, commanding a well above average off-trade retail price of £6.08 per 75cl bottle (compared to £5.27 for Chardonnay), this is far more than just a volume driver. As such, Sauvignon Blanc represented an obvious candidate for the latest extension to The Drinks Business Global Masters Series. What’s more, with no fewer than 17 different countries represented among the medallists, the blind tasting format flagged up both the high quality and truly international offer from this grape variety today. This diversity of origin extended right up to the very highest medal categories. While New Zealand scooped a predictably large proportion of gold medals awarded, it shared this podium with Spain, France, Australia, South Africa, Chile and the US. Meanwhile it was a Sauvignon Blanc from Spain – hardly the first place most people would associate with this grape – that took home the only Master of the competition. Regardless of origin, the judges offered a clear view of what they look for from Sauvignon Blanc. “It needs to be alive, tight and mouth-watering,” summed up Sarah Knowles, buyer for The Wine Society. Expanding on this view, Clive Barlow MW, director of merchant and consultancy business Press Wine Services, remarked: “There always needs to be harmony between crisp acidity and fruit, whatever that fruit style may be.” Despite the proliferation of Sauvignon Blanc in the marketplace, he also warned: “It’s not a forgiving variety. You’ve got to be careful or you can lose some aromatics.” s auvign o n blan c mast ers success stories As the discussion developed, there was an acknowledgement of the significant impact that one country in particular has had on this variety’s profile. “New Zealand has been so successful it’s shaped the market,” remarked Barlow. However, he stopped short of suggesting that competitors need to pursue this country’s trademark highly aromatic expression in order to succeed. Rather, he continued, “New Zealand raised the profile of the variety. It made people realise there’s more out there and maybe helped to break that Pinot Grigio stranglehold.” In particular Barlow pointed to the boost this raised awareness has given to the Loire. “People know it’s not the New Zealand style but they’re still happy to buy it,” he reported. “New Zealand has moved people towards a grape that they might not otherwise have tried. The Loire is still the home of Sauvignon Blanc and sells really well.” ‘It’s not a forgiving variety. You’ve got to be careful or you can lose some of those aromatics’ Despite the success of these two regions, for those in search of a bargain, Laithwaites’ global buyer & winemaker Robin Langton waved the flag for a completely different corner of the world. “New Zealand is still the category leader but Chile is better value for money,” he insisted. “Under £10 Chilean Sauvignon Blanc over-delivers quality to price.” For all this area of strength, that was not to suggest that the country should restrict its focus to the entry level. While Langton praised Leyda as offering “benchmark” expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, the competition also threw up a pleasant discovery for presenter and consultant Sam Caporn MW: “One real surprise was a 2006 Sauvignon from Chile that had passed the test of time really very well,” she reported. oak worries If there was one particular area of contention among the judges, it was the issue of using oak to vinify Sauvignon Blanc. Described as “a car crash” by Hugo Rose MW, chairman of the Wine Investment Association, others offered a more nuanced view. “Undoubtedly there are some great oaked Sauvignon Blancs around the world,” commented Knowles. “When it’s done well it’s great, but when done badly then it’s the worst wine in the bottle. There’s no middle ground.” For Langton, this approach to Sauvignon Blanc requires intelligent handling by the producer. “It’s about winemakers trying to take the wine somewhere other than just tank-fermented and clean,” he observed, but warned that with a variety as “unforgiving” as Sauvignon Blanc, “if you’re going somewhere else it’s easy to overdo it.” Above all, Langton maintained: “As soon as you use new oak the aromatics almost fight each other.” One enthusiastic advocate of barrels for this variety was Caporn. “I really liked the oaked styles,” she declared. “When done well it adds a layer of complexity and interest that is otherwise quite hard to find in Sauvignon Blanc.” HigH-end appeal? This connection between oak and more ambitious expressions of Sauvignon Blanc led naturally to a debate about the appeal of this variety once you venture up above the £10 or even £20 mark. It may command a higher than average price point in the UK but, with a few notable exceptions, Sauvignon Blanc is rarely viewed as being in the same aristocratic league as Riesling or Chardonnay. Nevertheless, there were plenty of examples reaching right up to the About the competition 4 The Global Sauvignon Blanc Masters is a competition created and run by the drinks business, and is an extension of its successful Global Masters series for major international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 4 With Sauvignon Blanc entries from around the world, in total nearly 150 wines were judged blind by a group of Masters of Wine and senior buyers using Schott Zwiesel Cru Classic glasses supplied by Wine Sorted. 4 Wines were awarded Gold, Silver and Bronze medals, with only the very highest scoring entires being given the accolade of a Master. 4 The wines were tasted over a single day at Broadway House in Fulham, London. £30 mark that won acclaim from the judges, although there was a general consensus that Sauvignon Blanc’s natural comfort zone lies below £20. “The most impressive category in my view was £10£20,” remarked Rebecca Palmer, associate director and buyer for Corney & Barrow. “This is the range that seemed to offer the best quality and value on the style catwalk, with wines that spanned the spectrum 4 29 sauvign on blanc mas t ers 100% Sauvignon Blanc – Unoaked Company Unoaked under £10 Quinta de Maipo Four Seasons Wines Marisco Vineyards Viña Valdivieso Viña Casa Silva Lismore Wines NZ Sumaridge Estate Wines Te Pa Family Vineyards Viña MontGras Gruppo Mezzacorona Australian Vintage Santa Carolina/Ehrmanns Viña Siegel DGB Bottle Green Viña Casa Silva Viña Casa Silva Mt Beautiful Les Vignobles Foncalieu Cono Sur Viña Valdivieso Vinimark Bergsig Estate Santa Rita Estates Santa Rita Estates Brand Phoenix Crown Cellars/Carlsberg Australian Vintage Viña San Pedro Tarapaca Weingut Gross Miguel Torres Chile Wine Country Vintage Medal Palo Alto Sauvignon Blanc Ritu Sauvignon Blanc The Ned Sauvignon Blanc Valdivieso Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Casa Silva Cool Coast Sauvignon Blanc Flying Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc Te Pa Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Amaral Castel Firmian Sauvignon Blanc McGuigan Classic Santa Carolina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Siegel Special Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Franschhoek Cellar, Statue de Femme Sauvignon Blanc The Long White, Spring Creek Vintners Reserva Cuvée Colchagua Sauvignon Blanc Doña Dominga Coasta Sauvignon Blanc Mt Beautiful Sauvignon Blanc Le Versant Sauvignon Cono Sur Reserva Especial Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Porcupine Sauvignon Blanc, Boekenhoutskloof Bergsig Sauvignon Blanc Carmen Wave Sauvignon Blanc Doña Paula Los Cardos Sauvignon Blanc First Cape Vineyards, Special Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc Cono Sur Las Ondas Sauvignon Blanc Nepenthe Altitude Sauvignon Blanc Castillo de Molina Reserva, Elqui Valley Jakobi Sauvignon Blanc Cordillera Sauvignon Blanc Chile India New Zealand Chile Chile New Zealand South Africa New Zealand Chile Italy Australia Chile Chile South Africa New Zealand Chile Chile New Zealand France Chile Chile South Africa South Africa Chile Argentina South Africa Chile Australia Chile Austria Chile 2014 2014 2014 2013 2014 2014 2014 2014 2014 2013 2013 2014 2014 2014 2013 2014 2014 2013 2013 2013 2006 2014 2013 2014 2014 2013 2014 2014 2014 2013 2013 Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Unoaked £10-£20 Craggy Range Saint Clair Family Estate Framingham Wines DGB Cono Sur Pernod Ricard Crown Cellars/Carlsberg Bottle Green Andeluna Cellars Matahiwi Estate Babich Wines Accolade Wines Nederburg Wines Accolade Wines DGB Pernod Ricard Marisco Vineyards Carolina Wine Brands Viña Errazuriz Tarras Wines Forrest Wines Saint Clair Family Estate Weingut Gross Diemersdal Wine Estate Diemersdal Wine Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Avery Vineyard, Marlborough Pioneer Black 3, 43 Degrees Sauvignon Blanc Framingham Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Boschendal Elgin Sauvignon Blanc 20 Barrels Sauvignon Blanc Brancott Estate Terroir Series Sauvignon Blanc Invenio, Sauvignon Blanc Vistamar Sepia Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Andeluna 1300 Sauvignon Blanc Matahiwi Estate Sauvignon Blanc Babich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Mud House Sauvignon Blanc Nederburg Private Bin D234 Sauvignon Blanc Mudhouse Woolshed Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Boschendal 1685 Sauvignon Blanc Brancott Estate Letter Series “B” Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc The King’s Favour Sauvignon Blanc Viña Casablanca Nimbus Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Max Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Tarras Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Forrest Sauvignon Blanc Saint Clair Marlborough Premium Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Steirische Klassik Diemersdal Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Diemersdal 8 Rows Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand New Zealand New Zealand South Africa Chile New Zealand France Chile Argentina New Zealand New Zealand New Zealand South Africa New Zealand South Africa New Zealand New Zealand Chile Chile New Zealand New Zealand New Zealand Austria South Africa South Africa 2013 2014 2014 2012 2014 2013 2013 2013 2014 2014 2014 2013 2014 2013 2014 2013 2013 2013 2014 2013 2013 2014 2013 2014 2014 Gold Gold Gold Gold Gold Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver from exuberant, self-assured Kiwis to the more restrained and savoury.” By contrast, she found that when venturing above the £20 mark “some were simply too fullbodied to do the variety any favours.” For Caporn, “you get what you pay for if you spend over a tenner as you get deeper concentration, better flavours, length and complexity.” However, at the very top end she echoed Palmer’s view, suggesting: “Over £20 it was harder to see the value 30 ‘I really liked the oaked styles. When done well it adds a layer of complexity and interest that is otherwise quite hard to find in Sauvignon Blanc’ and a couple of wines were actually penalised for that.” Nevertheless, while the £10-£20 price bracket proved a particularly prolific source of top medals, the healthy cohort of £20-£30 gold medal winners indicated both strong interest from winemakers in making these upmarket styles and the qualitative success of many such endeavours when sensitively handled. 4 Cultivating and processing grapes scientifically in order to produce a wine with unmatched sensory dimensions and health-promoting properties: this is the vision of Prof. Dr. Michael Popp, pharmacist and CEO of Bionorica SE. At his country estate “Es Castellet” nestled in the Tramuntana Mountains of north-western Mallorca, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes flourish on the Steep and narrow ancient stone terraces that give this exclusive wine its name: “Stairway to Heaven”. These terraced plots are optimal for the production of great wines. Sundrenched by day, this Cliffside perch stores the heat to insulate the vines during the cool nights. Complementing the beneficial climate are fertile soil an natural drainage. Dense planting guarantees highest-quality grapes, which – in keeping with the vineyard´s demanding standards – are carefully hand-picked and subject to a strict selection process while still on the mountainside. The wines are matured in barriques made of French and Hungarian oak and fermented in innovative oak and steel tanks. Bodega Castell Miquel Ctra. Alaró – Lloseta Km 8,7 07340 Alaró / Mallorca – Spain Tel. 0034 971 510 698 Contact: [email protected] www.castellmiquel.com VIGNON B L AU GOLD 2014 MASTER NC S A Castell Miquell – the wine with positive health benefits. O E GL BAL S TH 031_db_Nov_Vinorica_Layout 1 31/10/2014 10:56 Page 1 GOLD THE G LO RIESLING AL B TERS AS M VIGNON B L AU MASTER NC S A O E GL BAL S TH 035_db_nov_Adverts_Layout 1 31/10/2014 16:59 Page 1 SILVER 2014 2014 20 Barrels Limited Edition, 2014 “A distinctive wine. Pleasingly pungent with attractive white blossom aromatics, lots of fruit, refreshing acidity and a good length” the drinks business Global Masters judging panel Reserva Especial, 2013 “A lovely palate, slightly honeyed with peach and pineapple. A long, fresh finish with a touch of grip” the drinks business Global Masters judging panel the drinks business is proud to announce the launch of the Chianti Masters. Arguably the most iconic of all Italian wines, the competition will recognise and reward only the finest Chianti on the world stage. As part of the drinks business Masters series, wines from the Chianti region will be judged exclusively by style and price by a panel of leading industry experts. The judging panel will be composed exclusively of Masters of Wine, Master Sommeliers and senior wine buyers. The wines will be tasted blind and only the best wines will be awarded medals ranging from Bronze through to Gold, with the opportunity for truly exceptional wines to be awarded the title of “Master”.The results will be published to an international audience both in print and online. To enter your Chianti, please contact Chloé Beral on [email protected] or by phone on +44 (0) 207 803 2437 Deadline for entry is Friday 5 December 2014 inks busin dr s es THE CHIANTI MASTERS 2015 th e www.conosur.com CHIANTI 2015 sauvign on blanc mas t ers 100% Sauvignon Blanc – Unoaked Company Unoaked £10-£20 (cont’d) Crown Cellars/Carlsberg Viña Garcés Silva Cortes de Cima Aresti Chile Wine Accolade Wines Vinivola LA Cetto Nederburg Wines Viña Quintay Foucher Lebrun Viña Garcés Silva Babich Wines Foucher Lebrun Quinta de Maipo Spier Wines Pernod Ricard Cono Sur DGB Kingsland Spier Wines Aaldering Vineyards & Wines Paul Cluver Estates Wine Country Vintage Medal Cloud Island, Sauvignon Blanc, ZGM Boya Sauvignon Blanc Cortes de Cima Sauvignon Blanc Aresti Trisquel Sauvignon Blanc Flagstone Free Run Sauvignon Blanc L. A. Cetto Sauvignon Blanc Nederburg Manor House Sauvignon Blanc Q Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Pouilly Fumé “Les 2 Collines” Amayna Sauvignon Blanc Babich Family Estates Wakefield Downs Sauvignon Blanc Sancerre Blanc “Foucher Lebrun” Gran Devoción Sauvignon Blanc Spier 21 Gables Sauvignon Blanc Brancott Estate Flight Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 20 Barrels Sauvignon Blanc Boschendal Sauvignon Blanc Reserve De Grendel Sauvignon Blanc Spier 21 Gables Sauvignon Blanc Aaldering Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Chile Portugal Chile South Africa Mexico South Africa Chile France Chile New Zealand France Chile South Africa New Zealand Chile South Africa South Africa South Africa South Africa South Africa 2013 2013 2013 2014 2011 2013 2014 2013 2013 2013 2013 2013 2013 2013 2014 2013 2013 2014 2014 2013 2014 Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Bronze Unoaked £20-£30 Blaxland Wine Group Sunstone Vineyards & Winery Jonathan Tolley Sauvignon Blanc, Copestick Murray Sauvignon Blanc Australia USA 2014 2013 Bronze Bronze Unoaked £30+ Casa Vinicola Zonin Tenuta Ca'Bolani Aquilis Sauvignon Friuli Italy 2013 Bronze Medal 100% Sauvignon Blanc – Oaked Company Oaked under £10 Nederburg Wines Wine Name Country Vintage Nederburg Winemaster's Reserve Sauvignon Blanc South Africa 2014 Gold Oaked £10-£20 Santa Rita Estates Matahiwi Estate D'Aria Winery Te Pa Family Vineyards Viña Valdivieso Viña Valdivieso Australian Vintage Craggy Range Viña San Pedro Tarapaca Viña Leyda Backsberg Australian Vintage Santa Rita Floresta Sauvignon Blanc Holly Sauvignon Blanc The Songbird Sauvignon Blanc Te Pa Oke Sauvignon Blanc Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Nepenthe Petraea Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc, Te Muna Road Vineyard, Martinborough Tarapacá Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Lot 4 Sauvignon Blanc John Martin Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Tempus Two Copper Sauvignon Blanc Chile New Zealand South Africa New Zealand Chile Chile Australia New Zealand Chile Chile South Africa Australia 2013 2013 2014 2012 2012 2010 2013 2013 2013 2013 2013 2014 Gold Gold Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver Bronze Bronze Bronze Oaked £20-£30 Gitton Père et Fils Australia West Wine Exports Bodegas Castell Miquel Winetraders Cakebread Cellars Yarden Golan Heights Winery Vinimark Sancerre Galinot Larry Cherubino Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc Castell Miquel Sauvignon Blanc Stairway to Heaven Bellbird Spring, Block Eight Sauvignon Blanc, Waipara Sauvignon Blanc Yarden Sauvignon Blanc, Golan Heights Winery Reyneke Sauvignon Blanc France Australia Spain New Zealand USA Israel South Africa 2010 2013 2013 2012 2013 2013 2013 Gold Gold Gold Silver Silver Silver Bronze Blended offerings One final area of discussion centred on the handful of blended Sauvignon Blanc entries. There was particular enthusiasm for the results when this variety is combined with Semillon, as demonstrated so prominently by Bordeaux and 32 ‘Over £20 it was harder to see the value and a couple of wines were actually penalised for that’ Margaret River in particular. “Semillon gives you that breadth on the palate,” noted Langton as he considered the merits of this combination. However, for the moment at least, Knowles described the Sauvignon/Semillon blend as “very 4 difficult to sell.” sauvign on blanc mas t ers Blends (minimum 50% Sauvignon Blanc) – Unoaked & Oaked Company Wine Name Unoaked Blends – Minimum 50% Sauvignon Blanc Santa Rita Estates Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Country Medal Price Blend Chile Silver Under £10 Maison Ginestet Marquis de Chasse 2013 France Silver Under £10 Sumaridge Estate Wines Maritimus 2011 South Africa Silver £10-£20 Marchesi Antinori Conte della Vipera, Castello della Sala 2013 Italy Silver £10-£20 La Motte Wine Estate La Motte Pierneef Sauvignon Blanc 2014 South Africa Silver £10-£20 Maison Ginestet Ginestet 2013 France Bronze Under £10 Lapostolle/Berkmann Wine Cellars Casa Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Chile Bronze £10-£20 98% Sauvignon Blanc, 1% Semillon, 1% Chenin Blanc 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon 65% Sauvignon Blanc, 26% Chardonnay, 6% Semillon, 3% Viognier 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon 92% Sauvignon Blanc, 8% Semillon Spain Master £20-£30 Robert Mondavi - Accolade Wines Robert Mondavi Nappa Valley Fume Blanc 2012 US Gold £10-£20 Château Hostens-Picant Cuvée des Demoiselles 2012 France Silver £10-£20 Jackson Family Wines Jackson Family Wines US US Silver Silver £10-£20 £10-£20 Château Brown Atalon, Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Kendall Jackson Vintners' Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Chateau Brown 2012 France Silver £20-£30 Maison Ginestet Mascaron par Ginestet 2013 France Bronze £10-£20 Accoalde Wines Treaty Tree Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, South Africa Western Cape 2013 Chamlija Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Turkey Bronze £10-£20 Bronze £10-£20 Matanzas Creek Winery Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County 2013 Bronze £20-£30 Oaked Blends – Minimum 50% Sauvignon Blanc Miguel Torres - John E Fells Torres Fransola 2012 Chamlija Wines Jackson Family Wines Even if this style remains something of a trade secret for now, with Sauvignon Blanc’s star shining so brightly at the moment winemakers around the world have plenty of incentive to continue refining their product and pushing boundaries. Of course, many consumers will undoubtedly remain content to lap up the cheaper, crowd-pleasing expressions that occupy such a vast expanse of shelf space. However, it is reassuring to know that there are plenty of rewarding options for those who choose to explore further up the price ladder. db 4 34 US ‘I really liked the oaked styles. When done well it adds a layer of complexity and interest that is otherwise quite hard to find in Sauvignon Blanc’ 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Parellada 87% Sauvignon Blanc, 13% Semillon 55% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% Semillon 91% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Semillon 93% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon, 2% Viognier 64% Sauvignon Blanc, 36% Semillon 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Viognier 90.5% Sauvignon Blanc, 9.5% Semillon sauvign on blanc mas t ers Trade talk: Why enter wine awards? roB BuckHaven, torres senior Brand manager, joHn e fells We have to be selective about which awards we enter as there are now so many in existence. However, wine awards are a great vehicle for brand building and sales; the two are not mutually exclusive. We enter awards as our customers find any successes great to promote the wines and in turn stimulate sales. For example, we were approached to submit Torres Fransola into the db Masters by several of our customers who are currently championing premium Spanish wines. Fransola’s success in the competition will act as an additional tool to support that promotional initiative. But winning an award is not enough in itself to promote a brand or see an uplift in sales. Torres sets the benchmark among wineries in how to maximise the impact of a win. The judges xxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxx 36 left to right: clive Barlow mw, director, Press Wine Services clem Yates mw, sourcing & supply director, Off-Piste Wines rebecca palmer, associate director & buyer, Corney & Barrow patrick schmitt, editor in chief, the drinks business sam caporn mw, consultant john casson mw, consultant gabriel stone, managing editor, the drinks business Hugo rose mw, chairman, Wine Investment Association sarah knowles, buyer, The Wine Society simon Howland, staff writer, the drinks business robin langton, senior buyer & consultant winemaker, Laithwaites
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