Better Work Jordan Newsletter No. 13, March - May 2014 Jordan In this issue: Buyers stress importance of ethical growth for Jordan’s garment industry (page 1) Promoting worker health in Jordan’s largest industrial zone (page 2) International buyers stress importance of ethical growth for Jordan’s garment industry Representatives of nine international clothing brands discussed the future of Jordan’s garment industry at Better Work Jordan’s (BWJ) Sixth Annual International Buyers’ Forum As Jordan’s garment industry continues a strong trend of recordbreaking export growth, representatives of nine international clothing brands visited the country to attend BWJ’s Sixth Annual International Buyers’ Forum. The forum provided an opportunity for international brands, garment factories and government officials to reflect on the progress made in improving working conditions as well as the challenges ahead for the Jordanian garment industry. The forum, held in April, was a two day event bringing together brands including Wal-Mart, Gap, Sears, Jones Apparel, Hanesbrand, L.L. Bean, Li & Fung, Under Armour and Nike. The first day of the forum was a closed session for buyers’ representatives, giving them an opportunity to highlight their priority issues. During this session, buyers established consensus on how to approach several key issues (continued on page 2) One year on: Jordan’s collective bargaining agreement for the garment industry (page 4) Global training summit drives innovation at Better Work (page 5) Spreading the message on workplace cooperation (page 6) Financial literacy: worker training that really pays (page 6) Upcoming public training (page 8) 1 “...the industry should continue to improve working conditions in order to sustain strong growth.” International buyers stress importance of ethical growth for Jordan’s garment industry (continued from page 1) including wage discrimination, regulating conditions in subcontracting factories, dormitory standards and recruitment of foreign workers. During the second day of the forum, all key stakeholders reached initial agreement on an action plan to address key issues related to the working conditions in the industry. According to the Programme Manager of BWJ, Phillip Fishman “The Jordanian garment industry is emerging as a supplier of high-quality garments, particularly in the field of athletic wear. Buyers of high-quality garments expect higher labour standards from their suppliers, so the industry should continue to improve working conditions in order to sustain strong growth.” In 2013, Jordan’s garment exports reached a record high of US$ 1.3 billion, marking the second consecutive year in which the country achieved record garment export figures. During the first quarter of 2014, garment exports showed a 14 per cent increase over the same period in 2013. Promoting worker health in Jordan’s largest industrial zone A new fitness center in the Al-Hassan Industrial Zone is helping garment workers live healthier lives For garment workers around the world, a typical workday involves many hours spent sitting or standing at their workstations, performing tasks that require high-speed, repetitive movements. “In Jordan, migrant garment workers spend up to twelve hours a day at their workstation, making the same movements over and over” said Mervat Al-Jamhawi, of the General Trade Union of Workers in Textile, Garment and Clothing. “This can have a serious impact on their health.” A large body of scientific research shows garment workers can be at risk of developing serious work related injuries – including shoulder, neck and back disorders – if the right precautions are not taken. According to the International Labour Organization, muscoskeletal disorders such as these are among the world’s most common occupational diseases. At the Al-Hassan Industrial Zone in the north of Jordan, garment workers expressed an interest in using a newly established Workers’ Centre in the zone as a space to exercise. In the absence of recreational spaces and activities for garment workers in the industrial zone, the Workers’ Centre was (continued on page 3) 2 Promoting worker health in Jordan’s largest industrial zone (continued from page 2) recently established as a multi-purpose recreational and training space by several industry stakeholders including the Better Work Jordan (BWJ) programme. “The fitness area in the Workers’ Center was initially intended to be a room for screening movies” says Phil Fishman, Programme Manager of BWJ. “But when the center opened, it quickly became clear that what workers wanted is a place where they could exercise. Yoga and dance classes for workers are being held at the gym, and workers also have access to a weight lifting room. Just a few weeks after opening, dozens of garment workers are already using the center. Emily Hylton, who is responsible for coordinating the center’s activities, said that workers are very enthusiastic about these services. “Many of the workers that use the fitness center come every day after work” she said. For Indika, a 29-year-old Sri Lankan worker, exercising daily at the center’s fitness helps him shake off the stress of his work. “I hardly move at all during the day, and when I do it’s just to visit the canteen or bathroom. But since the center opened, this has all changed. I used to feel tired all the time but now I feel so much better especially during the long working hours.” Lifting weights beside him was Poraush, a 27-year old security guard from India. He said he is trying to get in shape for his wedding day in November back in his home country. “Before the gym in the center opened, I used to exercise in my dormitory, which was too crowded and lacked the proper equipment.” The limited resources of the center make it challenging to meet the high level of demand for exercise classes and equipment from the thousands of garment workers in the industrial zone. “We want to expand the fitness center, but exercise equipment is expensive” said Mervat Al-Jamhawi, who works actively with the Workers’ Center. “We are working to find support for the fitness center so more workers can benefit from these facilities.” “Many of the workers that use the fitness center come every day after work.” 3 One year on: Jordan’s landmark collective bargaining agreement for the garment industry Working to ensure implementation of Jordan’s collective bargaining for the garment industry Jordan’s collective bargaining agreement (CBA) for the garment industry is one of the most comprehensive in this sector globally, containing provisions on dormitory standards, annual seniority bonuses, dispute settlement, trade union recognition and employer rights. It came as a response to a series of longstanding disputes between workers and their employers over wages, working conditions and dormitory standards. One year after the signing of this landmark agreement (CBA), the General Trade Union of Workers in Textile, Garment and Clothing has made significant strides towards ensuring that the CBA is implemented, yet much remains to be done. Having established worker committees in around half of Jordan’s garment factories, union leaders are now hoping to expand their networks at the factory level by building stronger local cadres. During a workshop hosted by Better Work Jordan (BWJ) in May, union leaders discussed how to better involve migrant workers in the trade union and strengthen solidarity between garment workers. Mohammad Al-Hadidi, of the General Trade Union of Workers in Textile, Garment and Clothing, stresses the importance of educating workers about the agreement. “The only way to effectively monitor what is happening in the factories is through communication with workers” he said. “Workers need to know what is in the agreement so they can report violations to us.” Union leaders attend BWJ workshop on implementation of the collective bargaining agreement The union has partnered with BWJ to raise worker awareness of the collective agreement by distributing copies of the agreement to workers in Arabic as well as translations into the various languages spoken by migrant workers. The union has also held a series of meetings with workers to explain the terms of the collective agreement. With the current CBA set to expire in 2015, employers and workers have also been preparing for the next round of collective bargaining. According to the Programme Manager of BWJ, Phillip Fishman, “There are several important issues in the sector that could be addressed through the next round of collective bargaining, such as the provision of medical insurance.” BWJ has also been involved in promoting effective implementation of the CBA by training government labour inspectors on how they can play an active role. In May, BWJ organized a workshop that trained seventeen labour inspectors how to adjudicate upon the CBA in the case of disagreements between the employers’ association and the trade union. Click to watch the video on Jordan’s collective bargaining agreement for the garment industry 4 Global training summit drives innovation at Better Work Better Work staff from around the world exchanged knowledge and developed new skills at a five day training summit held in Bangkok, Thailand Over twelve years after Better Factories Cambodia was launched, the Better Work programme has established itself as a successful and scalable model for monitoring and improving working conditions in the garment industry and has grown its operations to provide services in eight garment producing countries. As the programme continues to grow, Better Work services are evolving to become more effective and efficient, with Enterprise Advisors and Training Officers being trained to take on new roles. In April, Better Work Jordan (BWJ) staff joined Better Work colleagues from around the world at a summit for Enterprise Advisors and Training Officers held in Bangkok, Thailand. Over 90 members of staff from seven country programmes attended the five day summit, which covered topics such as factory selfassessment, grievance mechanisms and industrial relations. “Moving forward, BWJ is going to focus more on promoting knowledge sharing among factories and training several factories on a specific issue at the same time” said Tareq Abu Qaoud, Technical Officer at Better Work. “This will make the Better Work model less labour intensive, and give the opportunity to the factories to learn from each other in the common challenges they are facing.” He added, “Many factories that have been in the Better Work programme for a number of years have demonstrated significant improvement, but a minority is resistant to change. We are developing a model that takes these differences into account, so that the programme can tailor Better Work assessment, advisory and training services to the circumstances of each individual factory.” Zainab Yang, BWJ’s Enterprise Advisory Team Leader, stressed the importance of attending the summit with colleagues from different countries. “The summit is an open space for collective learning, a chance to learn from the experiences of other country programmes and bring back unified practices to Jordan” she said. 5 Spreading the message on workplace cooperation in Jordan’s garment factories The export-oriented garment industry in developing countries is known for its fast pace of production and the pressure on workers and supervisors to meet high production targets. In this often stressful work environment, pressure to meet targets can often lead to verbal and physical abuse on the factory floor. According to a survey of garment workers in Jordan carried out by Better Work, 49.9 percent considered verbal abuse to be a concern in their factories. Not only does verbal abuse violate workers’ rights, newly published Better Work research from Vietnam has found that it also decreases worker productivity and harms overall business performance. managers how to avoid passive or authoritarian styles of leadership and strike a fair balance between the interests of the company and the interests of staff. increase in factory productivity and product quality as well as a decline in staff absenteeism. BWJ has delivered supervisory skills training to over 150 supervisors and middle managers and plans to have trained a total of 500 supervisors and middle managers by the end of the year. Workers in Jordan’s garment factories are also receiving training on workplace communication that encourages them to try to understand workplace issues from the perspective of management and find common ground with their managers. An impact evaluation of this training programme carried out by the International Finance Corporation in partnership with Harvard University found that the training yields business benefits for employers, including an BWJ’s Training Officer, Farah Al-Azab, has delivered this programme to over 580 workers. She believes that if workers and managers try to find common ground, many workplace issues can be resolved without conflict. To address this pervasive challenge, Better Work has developed several training courses focusing on effective communication in the workplace and creating a positive working environment. Better Work’s Supervisory Skills Training programme is one of the most successful courses in its curriculum globally, teaching supervisors and middle Workers participate in BWJ training Financial literacy: worker training that really pays With their limited income and low levels of education, it is no surprise that garment workers in developing countries often lack the tools to cope with the financial challenges in their dayto-day lives. such as budgeting, determining spending priorities and making a savings plan. BWJ’s Training Officer, Farah AlAzab, has delivered this training to over seventy garment workers. does not keep anything for her everyday expenses” she said. “If these women become desperate, it can lead to serious problems such as becoming heavily indebted to other workers or to shopkeepers.” To help address this issue, Better Work Jordan (BWJ) has launched a financial literacy training programme for garment workers. The programme uses an interactive approach to empower workers with the knowledge they need to make the right financial decisions and covers topics She has seen many cases of garment workers who have suffered because of financial mismanagement. “There have been many cases, especially with female migrant workers, where a worker who supports her family in her home country sends all her money to them and The financial strains faced by garment workers are often caused by poverty, but Farah Al-Azab notes that some of the situations they encounter can be avoided. “Workers can avoid getting into debt if they learn to budget and plan their finances properly” she said. 6 Better Work Jordan is funded and supported by: United States Agency for International Development (USAID) Jordanian Ministry of Labour The Better Work global programme is supported by (in alphabetical order): Australian Agency for International Development (AusAID) Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development, Germany (BMZ) International Finance Corporation (funds provided by IrishAid and The Walt Disney Company) Netherlands Ministry of Foreign Affairs State Secretariat for Economic Affairs, Switzerland (SECO) United States Council Foundation, Inc. (funds provided by select USCIB member companies) Participating Buyers Ann Inc. American Eagle Outfitters, Inc. Columbia Sportswear Company Gap, Inc. Hanesbrands Jones Apparel Group, Inc. Li & Fung L.L. Bean New Balance Nordstrom, Inc. Patagonia, Inc. Santex Sears Holding Corporation Puma PVH Ralph Lauren Swiss Post Target Wal-Mart Stores, Inc. Participating Suppliers Al Tayaseer Manufacturing Co. Al Areen for Garment Manufacturing L.L.C. Al Hadaf Manufacturing Co. Al Hanan for Clothes Manufacturing Al-Kawthar Garment Industry &Trade Co. Ltd. Al Masera Textile Al Tafilah Apparel Co. Ltd. Apparel Concepts L.L.C. Aseel Universal Garments Manufacturing Co. Ltd. Atateks Foreign Trade Atlanta Garment Manufacturing Company Business Faith Garment Manufacturing Co. Camel Textile International Corp. Casual Wear Century Miracle Century Wear Classic Fashion Apparel Industry Ltd Co. Classic Fashion Apparel Industry Ltd Co. (Satellite Unit) – Kerak EAM Maliban Textile Jordan Ltd. EAM Maliban Textile Jordan Ltd. (Satellite Unit) Elzay Ready Wear Manufacturing Co. Fine Apparel Ltd. Galaxy Apparel Industry Harthi Textile Industrial Hi-Tech Textile L.L.C. Haifa Apparel Horizon Clothing Manufacturing Co. International British Garments Manufacturing Co. Ltd. International Elegance Garment Manufacturing Co. Ivory Garments Factory L.L.C. Jerash Classic Garments Manufacturing Co. Jordan Star Jordanian Modern Textile Kareem Manufacturing Company Modern Apparel Co. Ltd. Mousa Ready Garment Mustafa and Kamal Ashraf Trading (Jordan) Garment Ltd. Needle Craft Ltd. Jordan. Oasis Textile International Co. Ltd. Paramount Garment Ltd. Prestige Apparel Manufacturing Ltd. Qadri Group Rainbow Textile Rich Door Textile Factory. Rich Pine International Group Ltd. Sana Factory Saysaban Garment Manufacturing Co. Southern Garment Manufacturing Co. Ltd. Standard Jeans Apparel Manufacturing Co. Standard Jeans Apparel Manufacturing Co. (Satellite Unit) Standard Textile Jordan Sterling Apparel Manufacturing Sterling Apparel Manufacturing – Al Qastal Sterling Apparel Manufacturing (Satellite Unit) Straight Line The Sun Jordan Textiles Co. Ltd. Third Dimension Apparel L.L.C. Trans World Apparel Manufacturing Co. Ltd Tusker Apparel Ltd. Co. United Creations L.L.C. Vega Textile Ltd. Victorious Apparel Manufacturing Co. Ltd. W&D Apparel (Jordan) Corp. 7 UPCOMING PUBLIC TRAINING Better Work Jordan offers a range of targeted training programs to managers, supervisors and workers, both in the classroom and at the factory. Our trainings focus on improving compliance with labour standards, productivity and quality through building effective workplace cooperation. For more information, please contact our offices. OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH MANAGEMENT About the course: This course helps participants understand that OSHM should be an integral part of factory management. The training gives guidance on how to improve safety and health within factories to meet both national and international standards. Participants will engage in a series of practical activities that will not only benefit safety and health within the enterprise, but also offer low-cost suggestions for improving working conditions and increasing productivity. Target participants: Factory management, OSH committee members and trade union/worker representatives Duration: 2 days Cost per participant: 80 JDs INTRODUCTION TO HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGEMENT About the course: This course is designed to help factories overcome non-compliance in human resources and bridge the gap between BWJ standards and current practices in garment sectors. The training programme covers: Human Resources roles, workplace cooperation, compliance with national labour legislation and personnel administration. Factories are guided to create concrete action plans, and encouraged to implement them. BWJ Enterprise Advisors monitor factories’ progress through regular visits. Target participants: Human resource managers, Human Resource Officers, Compliance Officers Duration: 4 days Cost per participant: 160 JDs ADVANCED HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGEMENT About the course: This course provides participants with in-depth training on the following human resource management topics: »» Conflict resolution and industrial relations »» Performance appraisal »» Continuous improvement »» Training/capacity building of employees »» Competency mapping and job descriptions »» Succession planning »» Compensation and benefits Target participants: Human resource managers, Human Resource Officers, Compliance Officers Duration: 5 days Cost per participant: 200 JDs SUPERVISORY SKILLS TRAINING About the course: This course enables participants to gain valuable leadership and management skills to further enhance dialogue between the company and its employees. The content of the course will cover the following topics: »» How to be a professional supervisor »» Building good relationships »» Influencing skills »» Managing people »» Videotaped practice Target participants: Factory supervisors and managers Cost per participant: 90 JDs (45 JDs to be paid by the factory and 45 JDs sponsored by The Walt Disney Company) Duration: 3 days This newsletter is published by Better Work Jordan, a joint programme between the International Labour Organization (ILO) and International Finance Corporation (IFC). The opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect the official views of the ILO, nor those of the IFC. For more information about Better Work Jordan, visit www.betterwork.org/jordan or contact us at [email protected] 8
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