2015/9/25
遊牧知としての馬乳酒
名古屋大学・篠田雅人
内モンゴル大
現代の儀式に用いられる馬乳酒
モンゴル相撲の勝者に与えられる
勝ち馬の尻にかけられる
遊牧民はある寅の日を選び、年初めの馬乳を絞り、親類・友
人・近所の人に特別な料理をふるまい、この日を祝う。
2015/9
遊牧知
Traditional herders’ knowledge
モンゴルの食生活に関する遊牧知
モンゴルの遊牧知：寒冷・乾燥フロンティアという
アネクメーネ近傍に暮らし続ける知恵
遊牧知の中でも特に重要な点：
いかに水・食料を得て、→馬乳酒製造に関する遊牧知
→冬営地の立地選択に関する遊牧知
寒さをしのぎ、
草原を荒廃させない
遊牧知研究：科研費基盤B（2011-2014、代表：森永由紀）
馬乳酒研究：科研費基盤B（2015-2018、代表：森永由紀）
(Batoyun et al.,2015)
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2015/9/25
背景：馬乳酒研究
• Airag is a mildly alcoholic, sour‐tasting drink that is made from
fresh mare (female horse) milk.
• It is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B12, C, D and E, ethyl alcohol, lactic
acid, and carbonic acid (Abdel‐Salam et al. 2010). One liter of airag can
supply daily vitamin C requirement (Konagaya 2005).
• Some herders drink airag instead of eating meals during summer
(Ishii and Samejima 1999). Mongolian man can drink 4‐10 liters of airag a
day. It is identified that 4 liter of airag (1600 kcal) is enough for
daily food intake (Konagaya 2005).
• Mare's milk has similar to that of human milk, suitable for infants
(Malacarne et al. 2002).
問題提起：馬乳酒研究
意義：馬乳酒研究
•
•
•
•
•
環境：小さい環境負荷
防災：ゾド対策
資源：微生物の多様性の保全
経済：地方振興
伝統：優れた効能をもつ文化遺産の保護
伝統的馬乳酒製法の普及により遊牧社会の
健全な発展に寄与することが期待できる
Q1 誰が馬乳酒を作るのか？
Q1 誰が馬乳酒を作るのか？
→地域性に関するモンゴル全国アンケート
Q2 名産地での馬乳酒の製造法の記録と検証
Q3 なぜMogod/Saihanの馬乳酒はおいしいのか？
Q4 誰が馬乳酒を作るのか？ ユーラシア大陸篇
Q5 馬乳酒で地方経済の振興はできるのか？
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2015/9/25
Method: Activity level of airag production
Result: Regionality of airag production
• Questionnaire survey with 10 questions.
• Collecting information from 2045 herders in all 329
counties of Mongolia.
• Activity level of airag production is defined asking
“Do herders in your county make airag?”
almost none do
a few herders do
Inactive regions
some herders do
most herders do
Active regions
A distinct regional difference in airag production
Horse density (head/km2)
Mare percentage
Result: Airag producing season & labor
Airag production
Horse
density
No production
1.5a
Low level
2.1a
Medium level
2.3a
High level
3.6c
Airag level
Mare
(%)
19.7a
27.0b
31.9c
36.6c
馬乳酒造りの盛んな地
域では、夏のあいだ莫
大な労働を製造に注ぐ
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2015/9/25
Result: Container
Result: Quality & quantity of airag
• The taste of airag is known to differ depending on region (even at household level)
and season.
100
80
What are the important factors for quality and quantity of airag?
(%)
60
40
20
Others
Enamel-ware
Aluminum-ware
Anduu
Arhad
Iron-ware
Beton-ware
Wooden bucket
Huhuur
Plastic
0
Traditional containers are replaced with plastic.
Discussion: Factors limiting airag production
lack of skill
lack of skill
lack of labor (cow milk products)
lack of water
cold
lack of grass
lack of skill
lack of labor (farmer)
lack of skill
lack of water
lack of grass
hot
few horses
goat & sheep milk
Discussion: Airag and Ethnic group
no tradition
lack of skill
fast horses
lack of skill
lack of grass
lack of water
Regionality of airag production can be explained by eco-climatological conditions
along with additional factors such as culture and ethnicity.
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2015/9/25
馬乳酒の質をきめる要素は何か？
Airag
pH
Temperature
Alcohol %
Elements (Prof.Ishii’s lab)
taste
color
Skills
Starter
Container
Mixing time
Adjustment of temperature
Rate of milk and yeast
Livelihood Interview, video
Culture Interview, video
自然環境
技術
• 発酵
イースト
乳とイーストの割合
容器
攪拌（時間・時刻・方法）
• 馬群の飼養
Q2 名産地での馬乳酒の製造法の記録と検証
•
•
•
•
•
•
天候
植生
土壌
ミネラル
水（表層水・地下水）
ウマ
⇒ Q２
⇒ Q３
Recoding skills
Study site
Mogod
Horse:50
(Mare:11)
Sheep:80
Goat:61
Cattle:10
Milking mares
3 hourly stirring
Saihan
Mogod
Drinking raw mare milk
Children also help
Mogod is famous for airag,
where a herder’ family was
selected for this research.
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2015/9/25
Result: Airag production
Airag measurements
pH, temperature & alcohol in Huhuur & Plastic
Total: 5139 litre
Fermenting temperature
Huhuur
(Cow’s skin container)
Plastic
25 June to 20 Sept. 2013 How airag ferments?
Dunk analysis
What kind of grasses are eaten by horse, cow and sheep and goat?
発酵過程
（乳酸+アルコール発酵）
乳酸菌
•
•
イースト菌（酵母菌）
糖類から乳酸を生成する細菌類
乳酸の生成によりpHを低下させて
腐敗菌の増殖を抑え、食品に風味
を与える
•
糖分を分解してアルコールを生
成する
撹 拌
空気供給・発酵活発化
9/25/2015
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2015/9/25
Weight measurement
Tracking routes with GPS
Baby & mother horses
Vegetation survey points
2015/9/25
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2015/9/25
Q3 なぜMogod/Saihanの馬乳酒はお
いしいのか？
⇒名産地の自然環境の特徴は何か
Vegetation survey
Coverage, height & aboveground biomass of each species at different
distances from milking of four directions.
9/25/2015
Meteorological observations
Result: Yeast comes from outside
Air temperature
Air pressure
Relative humidity
Wind speed direction
Wind direction
Solar radiation
Snow depth
Precipitation
Hotonto, Arhangai
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2015/9/25
イーストをホトントから持ってきて、
アイラグをモゴッド/サイハンで造ると美味しい
Q4
誰が馬乳酒を作るのか？
ユーラシア大陸篇
春はホトントで早く暖かくなり、草が生え仔馬が早く育つ
⇒ホトントでアイラグ作りが早め（5月）に始まる
夏はモゴッドで雨が多く、草が盛んに生える。涼しくて
過ごしやすく、発酵にも適温
⇒モゴッドで豊富な草を食べながらおいしいアイ
ラグが作られる
冬はホトントで寒くて雪が多いので、モゴッドの方が過ご
しやすい
馬乳酒はなんと呼ばれているか？
Wikipediaより
Kumis is also transliterated kumiss, kumiz, koumiss, kymys, kymyz, kumisz, kymyz, or qymyz (Kazakh: қымыз, [qəmə́z]; Turkish: kımız; Tatar: кымыз; Kyrgyz: кымыз, [qɯmɯ́ z]; Bashkir: ҡымыҙ qımıź [qɯmɯð]; Yakut: ымыс; kymys; Tuvan: хымыс; Uzbek: qimiz, [qɨmɨz]). The Russian word (Russian: кумыс, [kʊmɨs]) comes from the Turkic word qımız. The word kumis derives from the Syro‐Aramaic khamets ("sour, fermented"), which is the same word as the Hebrew khametz חָ מֵ ץ
")leavened"), evidently spread to Central Asia during the period of strong Nestorian‐Aramaic cultural influence in the 8th and 9th centuries. Kurmann derives the word from the name of the Kumyks, one of many Turkic peoples, although this appears to be a purely speculative claim.
In Mongolia, the drink is called airag (Mongolian: айраг [ˈai ̯rəɡ])
or,in some areas, tsegee. William of Rubruck in his travels calls the drink cosmos and describes its preparation among the Tatars
馬乳酒を作る地域
遊牧民
元遊牧民
馬乳酒の痕跡
非遊牧民酪農家
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2015/9/25
Kumys in Russia (Ulaan Ude)
THE ASTANA TIMES
April 17, 2014 Kazakhstan
• Kumis has been widely known since ancient times. Avicenna (Ibn Sina), the 11th century great philosopher and physician praised its therapeutic effects a thousand years ago. • Today, the beverage is enjoying a new wave of interest across Europe and it is being brewed in Germany, Austria, Italy, Belgium, the Netherlands, Ukraine, Mongolia and Yakutia in Siberia.
Kumys in Germany: Zollman kumys farm
Milking: 3 times/day by machine
Started in 1959 from 3 horses
Exporting kumys to European countries
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2015/9/25
モンゴル：理想的な牧畜と馬乳酒
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