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Undertow, average velocity over one wave period, is dominating in the velocity field in
surf zone. It is essential in order to estimate sediment transport as well as beach
topography. The objective of the study is to investigate interaction between cross-shore
beach profile and undertow in surf zone.
In surf zone velocity field consists of steady current, irrotational wave motion,
rotational wave motion and turbulence. Laboratory measurement in surf zone is
complicated to distinguish components of velocity field. Laser Doppler
Velocimeter(LDV), Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter(ADV) etc, are used to record
velocity data, but are not efficient after breaking because of bubbles in vortex. Vortex
size and velocity of particles in vortex are essential to understand velocity filed. One
way is to trace the movement and estimate the density of bubbles in order to quantify
vortex size and velocity of bubbles in vortex.
Figure: Vortex size is estimated in surf zone captured by High Speed Camera