SOUNDS BCN - Turisme de Barcelona

Discover the city’s
soundtrack with
our guide to the
local music scene
MA 1 5
B A 3 . L A P VIN Y
. JA
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The Best
of BCN
Time Out Barcelona in English
May 2015
Take a trip to the
neighbourhood of Horta
to discover another side
of the city p. 20
14. The rhythms of the city
Hannah Pennell reveals the who’s who and
what’s what of Barcelona’s music world.
20. A different world
You might not know much about Horta, but
Andreu Gomila tells you why it’s worth a visit.
24. 21st-century dim sum
Ricard Martín takes a tour of the city’s
newest Asian restaurants.
26. Al fresco dining
Food trucks are the latest gastro trend in
BCN – Ricard Martín gets in the queue.
28. Escape from it all
You’re in a locked room. Solve the clues to
get out. Montserrat Rossell explains.
30. Shopping & Style
34. Things to Do
42. The Arts
64. LGBT
65. Getaways
66. BCN Top Ten
Our cover
62. Clubs
54. Food & Drink
Get a fresh take on the city’s cultural offerings
when the museums open at night p. 42
Crazy name, great food. Perhaps the best way to
sum up new fusion eatery Bananas p. 54
Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected])
Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features &
web editor María José Gómez | Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent,
Josep Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Pol Pareja | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors
Marcelo Aparicio, Laia Beltran, Javier Blánquez, Òscar Broc, Ada Castells, Albert Castelltort, Nick Chapman, Irene Fernández, Ivan Giménez, Maria Gorgues, Mitchell Haines,
Eulàlia Iglesias, Ricard Mas, Iván Moreno, Montserrat Rossell, Martí Sales, Carla Tramullas, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 |
Mercedes Arconada [email protected] | Carme Mingo [email protected] | Marketing Clara Narvión [email protected] | Advertising designer Xavi Laborda |
Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona English edition Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London,
UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. | All rights
reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical,
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hot list
BCN_MAY 2015
Charles McPherson
Legendary musician
plays at Jamboree.
Food and drink
Poble Espanyol hosts
three-day beer festival.
25th F1 Grand Prix
Martha Argerich
Pirelli F1 Spanish Grand Prix
Activities to celebrate 25
years of F1 in Catalonia.
Renowned Argentinian
pianist performs.
Three days of motor
racing at the BCN circuit.
01 02
04 06 08
Spanish Golf Open. This year’s contest takes place
at the Real Club de Golf El Prat in Terrassa. THU 14
Così Fan Tutte. Mozart’s splendid opera is performed
at the equally splendid Liceu opera house. WED 20
My favourite things
Sant Ponç
Night of the Museums
Ciutat Flamenco Festival
Children’s choir sings hits
from stage and screen.
Feast day of the patron
saint of herbalists.
Spend the evening
exploring museums.
Music and dance
talents new and old.
Festa Catalana a BCN
Primavera Sound
Loop 2015
King’s Cup Final
See awe-inspiring human
towers in action.
Weekend festival with
amazing line-up.
Festival that brings the
best video art to the city.
Barça and Athletic Club
de Bilbao battle it out.
10 11 16
23 28 29 30
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People of
Aaron Feder
39 years old
B. García & M. Sales
You’re from Chicago, the home of
urban blues. How did you end up
taking the Afrobeat route?
I’ve always liked groove, rhythm,
and I worked in a record store
where I could listen to all genres –
it’s where I discovered Fela Kuti.
I’m a guitarist and it was a very
important instrument for him.
Music creating a hypnotic beat.
Yes, I listened to a lot of
improvisational rock groups,
such as The Grateful Dead and
Phish, with their long songs.
They have much in common.
With their musical heritage, can
an American connect more with
African music than a European?
Well, perhaps, through jazz and
blues. In Catalonia and Spain,
however, there are oral trends
also create a connection, like the
Central European klezmer.
Is Afrobeat still inspiring 40
years after it came into being?
Rather than ‘still’, I would say that
it has become inspirational again.
At the start of the 21st century, a
renaissance began with Antibalas,
from New York. We’re looking to do
something new, with all due
respect to Fela Kuti and Tony Allen.
Is this kind of music for people
who aren’t in a hurry?
Yes, escapist music. Like techno
Your group, Alma Afrobeat
Ensemble, was created in
Chicago. Does it do better here?
In the US, music fares a bit better,
even though there is no support.
Here there are the savings banks’
foundations and the AIE [Society
of Interpretative and Performing
Artists], for instance. Also, in
Chicago, we have a lot of African
Americans but few Africans.
There’s more here. Alma’s singers
are from Senegal and Nigeria.
or house in clubs. Pum, pum,
pum, 20 minutes with the same
tempo, making you forget the
mortgage and problems at home.
In particular, the part found in
the basement of the restaurant El
Gallo Quirico.
Illinois, home to the Ravinia
Festival, the summer residency of
the Chicago Symphony Orchestra.
You have a label that produces
discs from young Africans living
in Barcelona. A new generation?
Yes, with as much quality or even
more than in the ’90s. Barcelona’s
multiculturalism is on the rise –
you just have to look in the
schools, where kids from all over
play together. That’s how a homegrown African music scene was
born. With our label, Slow Walk
Music, we’ve brought out albums
by Nakany Kanté, Masara Traoré,
Moya Kalongo, Anita Zengeza...
Is there a ‘made in BCN’
Afrobeat, with its own sound?
I think so. Alma represents it
really well because we’re a mix of
people from different parts of the
world including Catalans, which
not all mixed groups are.
–Jordi Bianciotto
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_In Montjuïc
castle, you
can visit Ɓve
underground cells
that were used as
torture chambers
in the 19th and
20th centuries.
_ Once back out in
the fresh air, take
the path running
along the castle’s
outer wall to the
Caseta del Migdia,
a hidden café with
great views.
_For the 1964 Ɓlm
‘Circus World’,
John Wayne Ɓlmed
inside the Liceu
opera house
accompanied by
three lions.
_ On the beaches
of Barceloneta, try
to spot a game of
ta-ka-tà. Similar to
tennis, players use
their hands rather
than rackets to hit
the ball – the sound
made gives the
sport its name.
I love BCN
Poblenou cemetery
Av. Icaria, s/n
What am I
doing here?
Visit this historical cemetery to
see the elaborate architecture
erected to commemorate the dead.
Jan Fleischer
Learn to speak Barcelona with our vocab guide | By Jan Fleischer
The sardana (sar-DA-na) is a traditional Catalan circle dance with
slow bouncy steps accompanied by a band (cobla) of mainly wind
instruments. See the action every Sunday in front of the Cathedral.
Ah, springtime in Barcelona.
Everyone’s out for long meals on
beach. But what spring really means
in the city is the start of the open-air
music festival season. And what
better way to kick things off than
with the wildly popular festival that
has the Catalan word for spring right
in its name: Primavera Sound. Now
in its 15th edition, PS brings huge
names as well as up-and-comers,
local and international acts, and
even gigs in clubs around town.
the original venue, Poble Espanyol.
Now, I’ve got nothing against Poble
Espanyol, but the festival outgrew
that space in just a few years. Not
only did I have to queue so long that
I missed three bands on my list, but
once inside, the winding streets so
quaint by day became the stuff of
nightmares, with thousands
shoving their way to the next stage.
Thank the music gods the festival
changed to the sprawling Parc del
Fòrum the following year. From the
warmth of a late-May afternoon to
well into the wee hours you can
move easily from one stage to the
next, with minimal crowd anxiety.
Music lovers look forward to PS
every year because we know it’s a
stellar three days by the seaside
with some of our music heroes, and
a chance to discover new faves. We
celebrate spring with a festival that
music that turn into long nighttime
parties, only ending when the sun’s
about to come up. This is what
spring sounds like in Barcelona.
Jan cried when she saw
Patti Smith at PS2007
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The iconic
rooftop of
Gaudí’s La
Pedrera is a
48 HRS
City views
and fun for
all ages
– that’s
Down in the Born
Start at the Born Centre Cultural
(Pl. Comercial, 12), an iron and
glass structure built in 1876 as a
market. From there you can stop in
to the spectacular Santa Maria del
Mar church (Pl. de Santa Maria, 1),
a local favourite and setting for
many a wedding. Just next to that is
the Fossar de les Moreres, a
square that might not be much to
look at, but which has great
Barcelona; it was built over a
cemetery where those who died
1714 Siege of Barcelona were
buried. The square features an
memory of the fallen.
Sustenance and shopping
Stop for a break in one of the Born’s
lesser-known squares, such as
Sant Pere de les Puel·les or Sant
Agusti Vell. The Born is an area
that’s packed with boutiques where
you can pick up some designer
shoes or one-of-a-kind gifts to bring
home. As you’re strolling through
the streets, keep your eye out for
Ivori (Mirallers, 7), an exquisite
shop with local designs, On Land
(Princesa, 25), where men and
and Studiostore (Comerç, 17), with
everything from clothes and
eyewear to original cushions.
It’s time to eat
For dinner, try the Asian tapas at
Mosquito (Carders, 46) – they’ll
melt in your mouth. Always a sure
thing is eating in one of the city’s
fresh markets, such as Santa
Caterina (Av. Francesc Cambo, 16)
with its attention-drawing rooftop,
or the Mercat Princesa
(Flassaders, 21), where you don’t
have to limit your choice to just one
Once called the ‘Barrio
Chino’, the Raval has inspired
many a writer. Nowadays, it’s
a place where local
businesses thrive in the form
of unique shops and
restaurants, while still
maintaining some of its
seedy underworld glamour.
Urban culture is booming
here, alongside gems such as
the CCCB and Filmoteca.
restaurant but can graze from a
buffet of 16. To top off the night,
head in the direction of the sea and
have a drink in Absenta (Sant
Carles, 36) and you’re sure to get a
good night’s sleep, the more
upscale Zahara Cocktail Club (Pg.
Joan de Borbó, 69) or Café de los
Angelitos (Almirall Cervera, 26).
Trees and parks
Start your day with a big
breakfast among the tree-lined
streets of the Esquerra Eixample.
Velodromo (Muntaner, 213)
opens at 6am, for those of you
really keen to get going, while
Travel & Cake (Rosselló, 189),
opens every day from 9am and
has an eclectic menu of sweet
and savoury options. Once
you’ve got your energy levels up,
jump on public transport and
head up to Gaudí’s natural
wonder, Park Güell – book in
advance on to
ensure you get in to the
‘monumental’ zone and save a
euro. Bonus!
Gracious living
Grab a bite down the hill in
Gràcia, at the woodsy and
spacious Café Salambó (Torrijos,
Some historians believe that Christopher Columbus was Catalan, others that he was born in Genoa to a Catalan family.
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On top of
find key
51) or at La Pubilla (Pl. de la
Llibertat, 23), specialising in oldschool local food, or if the
weather’s nice, in a square such
as Plaça del Diamant or Plaça de
la Virreina. While you’re in the
area, have a look around for
some unusual souvenirs in the
shop-lined streets – suggestions
include Pinc Store for clothes
(Encarnació, 24) and Magnesia
(Torrent de l’Olla, 192) or Mueblé
Martínez de la Rosa, 34) for
Explore modernisme
Next stop: the Sagrada Família.
Gaudí’s masterpiece gets very
crowded, but take your time to
appreciate his vision. Once
done, walk over to Av. Diagonal
to keep the modernisme theme
going by stopping at Casa de les
Punxes (Rosselló, 260), Palau
del Baró de Quadras (Diagonal,
373) and Casa Planells
(Diagonal, 332). Alternatively,
take the metro from the Sagrada
Família (L5) down to Diagonal
and stroll down Passeig de
Gràcia to just hit the
modernisme biggies: La
Pedrera (Provença, 261), Casa
Amatller (Pg. de Gràcia, 41) and
Casa Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43).
Many visitors stick to the
central areas, but the city is so
much more. Gràcia is full of
life at all hours of the day,
Sarrià retains much of its
historical small-town feel,
while Poble-sec and Sant
Antoni are currently the places
to be, thanks to their top
cuisine and quality nightlife.
And not forgetting the hilltop
theme park of Tibidabo.
Big night out
Try the out-of-this-world double
terrace of Invisible-Pizza Ravalo
(Pl. Emili Vendrell, 1), Teresa
Carles for a healthy vegetarian
option (Jovellanos, 2), or the
Mediterranean banquet that is Lo
de Flor (Carretes, 18). After lining
your stomach, get a couple of drinks
in Negroni or Tahiti, both in the barladen C/Joaquín Costa (46 and 39,
respectively), and then ease on
Marula or other area clubs, before
calling it a night.
Mountain climbing
Head to the ‘mountain’ of Montjuïc.
Depending on what you’re in the
mood for, you can visit the Joan Miró
Foundation (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n),
the Olympic Stadium and other
nearby constructions from the
1992 Games or walk around the
plentiful gardens, including the
Jardins del Teatre Grec (Pg. Santa
Madrona, 39) and the Jardins
Laribal (Pg. Santa Madrona, 2),
including the Colla de l’Arròs rose
gardens, at their most picturesque
in late spring.
End on a beach spot
Take the cable car from Montjuïc to
Barceloneta, where you can relax
with a vermouth and a paella. Most
restaurants in Barceloneta
specialise in seafood, taking
advantage of the nearby Med. Also
due to the prime real estate, some
of the better spots aren’t cheap, but
it. Try Can Solé (Sant Carles, 4), La
Mar Salada (Pg. Joan de Borbó, 58)
or El Suquet de l’Almirall (Pg. Joan
de Borbó, 65). A great place for the
more budget-conscious, with a
huge terrace and fresh, scrummy
dishes to go with their relaxed vibe
is Santa Marta (Grau i Torras, 59).
In 1940, Himmler visited the monastery of Montserrat, allegedly because of the possibility that the Holy Grail was hidden there. Yes, that one.
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just a click away
Find more than 200 suggestions
to suit a wide range of tastes
get ready for fun!
Barcelona is a vibrant,
cosmopolitan city that offers
visitors a wealth of different
products and services. You’ll be
when you visit the
website and the Turisme de
Barcelona Tourist Information
Points around the city.
There are many ways to visit
Barcelona – in the company of
friends, or with your family or
partner – and a multitude of
reasons to come here: the
culture, cuisine, music, art...
Whether you’re planning to
see the best-known attractions
or are looking for a truly special
experience, at
suggestions to suit a wide range
of tastes.
You’re here to see Barcelona,
but how will you get around? Here
are just a few ideas. There are
guided tours on foot, by bicycle or
with special vehicles like the
Segway, which cover both the city
centre and the lesser-known
neighbourhoods; running tours
and gastronomic excursions;
panoramic hop-on hop-off bus
tours or themed routes through
workshops, wine and chocolate
tasting, or craft workshops for the
little ones; visits to historic
buildings such as the Palau de la
Música, or to museums, taking
advantage of the ArTicket or
Barcelona multi-tickets, with free
transport and discounts; and
babysitting services, wheelchair,
pram and pushchair hire, in
addition to the standard leftluggage services and airport
There are many Barcelonas to
explore. Which one is yours?
Discover the full range of
possibilities on offer by visiting
One of Europe’s leading theme
parks is just an hour away from
Barcelona. PortAventura has
six different worlds that offer
unlimited thrills and lots of
surprises for all ages. If you like
extreme sensations, take a ride
on Europe’s highest roller
coaster, Shambhala. Or if
you’ve got kids, they’ll love
SesamoAventura, where its
magical inhabitants, Bert, Ernie
and all the Sesame Street
characters, are waiting for
you. If you’re a fan of the water,
Costa Caribe Aquatic Park
will take you on an aquatic
adventure. And don’t miss
out because this year marks
PortAventura’s 20th
anniversary and it’s going to
be full of surprises!
Buy your tickets at:
BCN city of contrasts
BCN is much more
Visit some of Barcelona’s bestkept secrets: 360º panoramic
views from Torre Baró, and Civil
War anti-aircraft batteries at Turó
de la Rovira, the [email protected] innovation
district and the Encants Market.
Live Barcelona like a local!
Experience the Mediterranean
with a boat trip to Badalona, site
of one of Catalonia’s most
important archaeological sites.
Round off your visit with a
refreshing glass of craft beer,
served with a delicious tapas.
Buy your tickets at
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Get this
Book the best
Enjoy a wide range of eateries
and top dishes across the city
Find out what’s on
Buy your tickets
Get the latest info on what to do while you’re
here in town
kids shows...
date news about the best of what Barcelona has to offer. With new
events added each day, you’ll have no excuse not to have fun.
You can also buy tickets to the city’s biggest events through our website,
whether for concerts, festivals or other cultural events. What’s more, you
Discover top ideas for exploring outside Barcelona: where to eat, what to
do... at
Explore the bustling and varied neighbourhoods of Barcelona
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Found in the area of Glòries, where
modern buildings are popping up
like mushrooms, L’Auditori was one
1999. The zone is a cultural hive,
with the Catalan National Theatre
just next door, and the new designthemed DHUB a few minutes’ walk
away, but for music, it has to be
L’Auditori. Home to the Barcelona
and Catalan National Symphony
Orchestra (OBC), its extensive
programme doesn’t limit itself to
classical. In recent times, Turkish
pianist Fazil Say, and musicians
Jane Birkin, David Byrne and St.
Vincent have all passed through,
while it’s also home to a small but
well-stocked Music Museum.
By Hannah Pennell
In Catalan, Barcelona Sound
translates as So Barcelona,
which, if you say it in English, is
an apt name, because this
musical trend points to a
particular facet of the city – its
appeal to people from around
the world, and the Barcelona
Sound was essentially a mix of
musical cultures. The concept
(the 1992 Olympics doubtless
played their part) and Ojos de
Brujo and Manu Chao were just
two of those active in this fusion
that absorbed any number of
styles including reggae, ska,
Latin American, Mediterranean
and African music, hip hop,
punk, rock, electronic, rumba
14 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
The name for home-grown,
Catalan-language music, which
originated as Nova Cançó (new
song) during the ’50s, when
various artists decided to start
writing original songs in Catalan,
despite the public use of the
language being outlawed by the
Franco regime. The main
proponents were Els Setze
Jutges (The Sixteen Judges), a
group of singer-songwriters
founded in 1961 by Miquel
Porter and Josep Maria Espinàs
that included such local icons as
Lluís Llach. Toward the end of the
’60s, the ‘Nova’part gradually
fell out of use, and ‘Cançó
catalana’ (Catalan song)
became more prevalent.
It turns out Barcelona lends itself
spectacularly well to hosting music
festivals, and nowadays there’s
one or another on pretty much
year-round. While mega-events
such as Sónar and this month’s
Primavera Sound tend to grab a lot
of attention, there are also regular
get-togethers for fans of jazz,
well as those festivals where the
venue is as important as the acts
(a good example is relative
newcomer Jardins de Pedralbes).
Most last a couple of days and/or
nights, while others go on for
months and months (Festival del
Mil·lenni, we’re looking at you).
Good weather, easy access for
international acts and audiences,
and innumerable potential venues
all help this industry thrive. And
long may it continue.
In 1995, the Heliogàbal Cultural
Association (Ramon y Cajal, 80)
was created in the neighbourhood
of Gràcia to promote artistic and
cultural activities. Twenty years
later, the place is booming, having
established itself as one of the
best independent live music
venues in the city. It’s certainly not
the biggest, but it does have one
of the largest ranges of
performers with recent acts
playing acoustic guitar, rumba,
garage, Catalan pop and indie (not
all at the same time). Just over
the road, the owners recently
opened Cap Verd, a snack bar with
great food to kick off a special
musical night.
For many in Barcelona, jazz means
Jamboree. Part of the extensive
Mas i Mas group (which also own
the various Moog and Tarantos
venues), the club opened its doors
at Plaça Reial, 17, in 1960,
although the genre was already
performances in 1920. Chet Baker
and Dexter Gordon were among
early musicians on Jamboree’s
stage, while Ella Fitzgerald and
Duke Ellington celebrated its sixth
anniversary with a concert at the
Palau de la Música Catalana.
Today, it hosts two nightly concerts
every day of the year, with local and
all styles of the genre.
springs to mind when thinking of
almost 100 years, with local stars
that include Miguel Poveda and
Carmen Amaya. Flamenco makes
some locals uneasy, promoted as it
was by Franco as a symbol of
Spanish culture. But long-standing
gypsy communities, mass
immigration from southern Spain in
the ’50s and ’60s, and popular
venues (tablaos) all contribute to its
having a valid place in the city.
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If you’re looking to let your
hair down and bang your head
to heavy guitar licks, these
are the places to go. Open
since 1976, Magic Club
(Pg. Picasso, 40) has two
until 6am. Sala Rocksound
(Almogàvers, 116) is one of
a few venues offering live
rock gigs, while Bollocks Bar
(Ample, 46) is renowned for
cheap booze and a mannequin
of Iron Maiden’s Eddie hanging
off the wall.
Get your groove on at Ocaña
(Pl. Reial, 13-15), a multiƂQQTGFURQVTKIJVKPVJGEKV[
centre also good for dining
and cocktails, while just a few
minutes away is the ever-sostylish-looking Dome Club
(La Rambla, 33), which
opened its doors at the end
of April. For funksters, Marula
Café (Escudellers, 49) will
keep you happy, and if you’re
heading uptown, the place the
posh kids like to go is Sutton
(Tuset, 13).
This Barcelona DJ and producer,
whose professional title is
adopted from the name of his
school (real name Oriol Riverola),
saw his stock rise with the
release of his critically lauded
2012 album, fIN. His star
continues to shine, with a recent
appearance at Coachella, a gig
supporting Jamie xx on tour, and
Talaboman, a new collaborative
project with Swede Axel Boman.
Lively Catalan group that played
close to 900 concerts around the
rumba are the seven-man band’s
key sounds, and they’ve been local
pioneers in using the internet to
promote their music, offering free
album downloads and even a video
game. This month they release a
new record, Revulsiu, and perform
at Sala Salamandra (Av. Carrilet,
301, L’Hospitalet) on Friday 15.
Many of Barcelona’s venues
for classical music are
landmarks in their own right.
The Gran Teatre del Liceu
opera house (La Rambla
51-59) and the Palau de
la Música Catalana are
doubtless already on your
to-do list if you’re a fan of
the genre. For smaller, more
intimate surrounds, try any
number of the historical
buildings in the historic centre
that include recitals in their
agendas – Palau Dalmases
(Montcada, 20) and the Reial
Cercle Artístic de Barcelona
(Arcs, 5) are just two
examples. Finally, it’s worth
checking out the programmes
of the local civic centres
(, as they host
regular cycles and events
featuring local musicians.
16 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
This Barcelona pop band sings
album, Els millors professors
europeus, was released in 2008,
winning plaudits from the critics,
while the 2011 follow-up took the
top spot in Spain’s list of record
sales a week after its release – the
Catalan-language album achieved
this. But it only took two years for
them to repeat the feat with Atletes,
baixin de l’escenari (2013).
Puig (pronounced pooch) is a
multifaceted musician from just
outside Barcelona, who is
following a 16-year career in the
group Los Sencillos with solo
success both as a recording artist
and DJ. Catch him in the latter
guise at La [2] de l’Apolo (Nou de
la Rambla, 111) with his regular
Old Wave New Wave night, this
month scheduled for Friday 8.
Staying with Apolo, in both the
main club (Nou de la Rambla, 111)
and La [2], Nitsa nights have been
spearheading indie and electronic
music since 1993 with weekend
concerts and DJ sets. Local acts
mingle with international guests –
among those on this month’s lineup are Berliner Marcel Dettmann
(Sat 8) and Detroit native Mike
Huckaby (Fri 15) along with
Barcelona’s own DJ Fra (Sat 23)
and Shelby Grey (Fri 29, Sat 30).
Constructed between 1905 and
1908, the elaborate modernista
design of this musical landmark is
the work of architect Lluís
Domènech i Montaner. He was
commissioned to create a home for
the choral group Orfeó Català, and
it was paid for by public
subscription. In its more than 100
years, not only has it hosted myriad
concerts of all musical genres, it’s
also witnessed key political
moments. In 1960, a last-minute
ban on a Catalan song at a concert
attended by Franco led to a protest
in the Palau – the incident came to
be known as ‘Els Fets al Palau’ (The
Events at the Palau).
With an oddly counter-intuitive
name for a band, Standstill
originated in the hardcore punk
underground sector of Barcelona’s
music scene. Having recorded their
changed to Spanish for their third
and later discs. In 2006, after
almost a decade in the business,
they rejigged their line-up, set up
their own label and found a new
niche in the indie rock genre.
A few years back, Barcelona had a
booming record store industry. The
thirst of locals for vinyl was such
that almost an entire street just off
La Rambla was dedicated to the
sale of LPs and singles. But today,
C/Tallers is a shadow of its former
self. The internet and ongoing
times for stockists such as Discos
Castelló (which once had six shops,
but today it’s just one, at Tallers, 7)
and Discos Revolver (Tallers, 11
and 13). They’re not ready to lift the
needle off the record just yet
though. Back catalogues are a
boon, and as vinyl comes back into
fashion, collectors are looking for
good deals on the classics.
Meanwhile, a new generation of
niche stores are trying their luck –
Ultra-Local (Pujades, 113) focuses
on Catalan indie.
When we say ‘underground’, we’re
talking about music played on the
Metro. And when we say ‘music
played on the Metro’ we’re not
talking about those sweaty men
with the accordions and speakers
with song and sound. There are 39
spots reserved for these
performers, who have to audition
to earn the right to share their
music with the travelling masses.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 17
By Marta Salicrú
Seeing the US singer and rocker
live is always an experience: the
charisma and energy she exhibits
on stage have to be seen to be
believed. Here she’ll perform her
iconic debut album Horses in its
entirety 40 years after its release,
alongside two of the original
musicians on the disc. If you prefer
the New Yorker’s poetic side, on
Saturday 30, Smith will offer an
acoustic and spoken word recital.
OMD – WED 27
Some musicians deserve the
‘one-hit wonder’ tag, but others
are baptised as such through pure
ignorance. OMD are mainly known
for ‘Enola Gay’, but during the
almost 20 years they were together,
the group accumulated such a
collection of anthems, the notion of
associating them with just one is
laughable. They’ll perform classics,
but also champion their latest
album, English Electric (2013).
Pink’s psychedelic, infectious and
mutant pop made him a star in the
indie universe after he emerged
from the underground. His
performance at Primavera Club
2012, which saw the LA native
wander the stage like a maniac,
was magnetic. He’s the most
prominent of those US musicians
who revisit ’60s genres with an
uninhibited lack of loyalty.
album destined for many a ‘best of
2015’ list. Filled with riffs both
catchy and strong, and replete with
heartbreaking lyrics, seeing it
played live will be like the good kind
of kick to the pit of your stomach.
The arrival of the Scottish group on
the mid-’90s indie scene generated
but dark chamber pop won over
legions of sensitive souls. But nine
years later, boredom led the band to
reinvent itself (without totally
abandoning its iconic sound) with
Girls in Peacetime Want to Dance
(2015), embracing Euro disco,
Balkans dance music and Brazilian
A key group in the alternative rock
scene during the ’90s and up till
their 2005 split, the female trio
returns to the stage this year. They
bring with them No Cities to Love, an
(1994), the album that saw them
embrace techno and discover their
distinctive hypnotic sound. And It’s
this milestone that brings them to
Primavera Sound. Prepare for a
dark and long session.
THU 28
musicians – and has a certain
tendency to recycle – but Antony
Hegarty is, above all, a performer, a
singer capable of delving into your
soul. Here he may give us a taste of
Swanlights (2010) – Hegarty has
described the new work as ‘an
electronic disc with its teeth
sharpened’, and plans to release it
under the alias Anohni.
Their song ‘Born Slippy. NUXX’
helped open the eyes and minds of
’90s indie kids, plunging them in
marked the 20th anniversary of
Considered to be among the fathers
of alt-rock, if you associate The
Replacements with punk, have a
listen to their 1984 Let It Be album.
It starts with ‘I Will Dare’, a jangle
pop gem that’s more The GoBetweens than The Clash, light
years from the hardcore they also
cultivated and symbolic of their
wide-ranging back catalogue.
Dissolved in 1991 and re-formed in
2012, the group playing here
includes original members Paul
Westerberg and Tommy Stinson.
18 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
Along with My Bloody Valentine
and Slowdive, this British
bearers of shoegaze, the guitarDCUGFCFQTPGFRQRVJCVƂQWTKUJGF
in the UK during the second half of
the ’80s and start of the ’90s.
Ride broke up in 1996 then reformed in 2014, and their
performance at Primavera Sound
2015 will be the only opportunity
to see them in Spain this year.
for this 15th anniversary edition of
Primavera Sound, proclaimed with
an ad that covered a building. This
the fact that the quintet released
their celebrated debut album Is
This It in 2001, the same year the
festival began. The Strokes don’t
bring any new material with them,
but they do have their 2013 album,
Comedown Machine, which
signalled a return to the sounds of
their earliest days.
20 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
orta isn’t a district, it’s a feeling, you might say,
paraphrasing some sports journalist reaching
for the easy pearl of wisdom. The fact is, as I’m
assured by Oriol, owner of the ice-cream shop
L’Eivissenca, people from Horta are not from
Barcelona. ‘We feel different,’ he says. Perhaps
it’s because the altitude keeps the area two
degrees cooler. Perhaps it’s because of the
number of people proudly sporting T-shirts that
read ‘Sóc d’Horta’ (‘I’m from Horta’). Because
the air quality is better. Because there are so
many shops that have been in business for
over 100 years. Or because it was one of the
very last outlying towns to become part of
Barcelona. I don’t know. But I’d say that Horta
is a place – and here I’m laying my reputation in
Horta on the line – that is still how many
Barcelona neighbourhoods must have been,
before they began to lose their character. A
place where passers-by greet each other on the
street and where the baker can recite the
names of whole families from memory. Civic
pride, some may call it. Or, simply, the effect of
having survived post-Olympic Barcelona.
Stepping out of Horta metro station, on line
5, onto Plaça d’Eivissa, it’s as if I’ve left
Barcelona far behind. It’s a pleasant square,
perfect really. When you sit at one of the
terraces, people look you over, as if to say, ‘He’s
not from round here’. Waiters chat in the
doorway. A mother and daughter are sharing an
irresistible-looking plate of fried squid rings,
with a tiny glass of beer each. The blackboard
outside the Frankfurt bar tempts me: squid,
mussels, patatas bravas and two tankards of
beer: €13.50. It’s true – we’re not in Barcelona
any more! If you head up the hill on C/ d’Horta,
turn right on C/ de Palafox and then left onto C/
Campoamor, you’ll be completely sure. The oldfashioned townhouses and country mansions
that line the street have a charm that’s
moment, on Plaça d’Eivissa, that Horta was a
Montmartre, a hilltop district, with its daytime
bustle and its nightlife, its terraces where
street in Barcelona, a place I’d like to live. Not
Pedralbes, Vila Olímpica or Gràcia. Horta!
People tell me Horta is ‘a village that has
everything you want from a big city.’ And with ‘a
strong identity,’ of course. They also tell me
that Hortencs, the natives, shop in the
neighbourhood and are not especially
interested in labels – I hear this at the Jamarcor
lingerie store, from Andreu and Joan, red
Lacoste polo shirts, round faces, charming,
and with retail experience in other areas – and
that they prefer to remain off the radar. They’re
happy the way they are, although they don’t
want to be completely forgotten. Horta exists,
and the rest of Barcelona needs to know about
it. ‘Maybe we do get forgotten,’ they admit. If
anyone was asking, they’d like to have some
important cultural institution, which would
mean people from elsewhere were obliged to
come here. All they need, I suggest, is
something on the scale of Sala Flyhard, the tiny
contemporary theatre space that is an
obligatory bimonthly port of call in Sants. I
mention the theatre because Horta has
theatrical traditions: it was home to some of
the actors and directors who founded the city’s
Teatre Lliure, and the impressive Cal Mariner
library, housed in a 16th-century farmhouse,
specialises in theatre. Time will tell.
Glòria, of the Pastisseria Mayol, which has
been in the area for 160 years, and may be the
oldest cake shop in Barcelona, smiles when I
ask her about Horta’s pride. ‘It still has that
village feel,’ she says. In fact, she remembers
grazing in the north of the district when she was
small. They’ve lost some things and gained
others, because today Horta must be one of
the tidiest neighbourhoods in the city. It must
be a great place to live, it occurs to me. It has
almost everything, and if you work ‘in
Barcelona’, you can be there in 20 minutes. As
well as Plaça d’Eivissa, there’s Plaça Bacardí
and even the Parc del Laberint, without
question the city’s best green space. And there
are more decent restaurants and bars, starting
with Quimet, than you can count. And the
people – especially the people.
nerve centre of neighbourhood life and
café of choice for the local intelligentsia.
For 87 years they’ve watched fashions
come and go, while staying true to the
bottle-lined walls and the memory of
their late-lamented parrot, Juanito, who
imitated the whistle of passing trams.
Their sandwiches, served on crunchy
ciabatta bread and with more than 80
Pl. d’Eivissa, 10 ⓣ 93 358 19 16
the Mayol family opened a patisserie a
little further down the road from where it
stands now. That was back in 1854.
at the head of the business, and invites
me to try a pastisset de cabell d’àngel –
pumpkin jam – scrumptious! Traditional
delights such as matons de Pedralbes
(almond-milk blancmanges), creamƁNNGFtortells (ring cakes), puff pastries
and torró de crema (bars similar to
nougat) are the big sellers.
Horta, 59 ⓣ 93 429 07 50
Jordi assures me that Hortencs drink
more red wine than white, and that their
favourite varieties are from the Penedès,
Batea and Gandesa. At the weekend,
however, the top tipple is vermouth from
Reus. Horta might not be Barcelona, but
a trend is a trend and the youth are the
same everywhere. It’s as true now as it
rolled into the bar. Insider tip: on
Saturdays they do excellent grilled
Horta, 1 ⓣ 93 429 10 38
This is surely one of the bestestablished vegetarian restaurants in
Barcelona, yet the regulars look as if
they’d prefer a traditional meaty stew to
breaded tofu. The bar area serves beers
and sandwiches suitable for omnivores,
the trip up to Horta. If they have bunyols
de carabassó (courgette fritters) don’t
think twice about ordering them!
Pg. Maragall, 217
ⓣ 93 456 10 09
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 21
Restaurants old and new
Can Gaig d’Horta, the neighbourhood’s most
famous – and Michelin-starred – restaurant,
closed its doors in 2004. And Can Joanet, a
local institution, has just followed suit. But
there’s no need for tears. As long as they have
the bucolic, emblematic Can Cortada, all will be
427 23 15). The restaurant opened 20 years
ago in a former castle built on the remains of a
Roman villa, which is listed as part of
Barcelona’s historical heritage. Their salt cod
with roquefort is more than respectable, and
they’re specialists in all kinds of grilled meats.
There are few white-tablecloth
establishments in Horta. The reigning model is
the bar-restaurant, with Quimet on Plaça
d’Eivissa as prime example, although others
lean toward hamburgers, vermouth or pizza.
One bar that’s all the rage with local youths is
Setze (Pere Pau, 16; T. 93 429 65 23). It’s been
around for three years now, and it’s still known
as ‘the new bar’. Mercè, owner and manager,
tells us it’s a hangout for ‘devils’ and drummers
rhythm section for the Catalan pyrotechnic
street celebrations called the correfoc ƁTG
run). Everything on the menu is home-made,
except the squid, which she can’t get to turn
out to her satisfaction.
Their big hit is the Setze burger, an
explosion of calories with hamburger, onion,
bacon and a fried egg. There’s also a pizza
version, with mince instead of hamburger.
Teenage rocket fuel. And while the kids
recharge their batteries, their older brothers
and sisters check in at La Bodegueta d’Horta
(Pere Pau, 4; T. 655 655 655), now entering
its third year. The serve a white Verdejo that
sends pleasant shivers down the spine
and sparks up into the brain, while the
complementary slices of cheese on toast
arrive like a welcome surge of optimism. The
same feeling appears when talking to Àlex in
Destapa’t (Chapí, 56). He opened in February
and already has a loyal clientele, fans of his
smashed eggs with ham (huevos estrellados)
and patatas bravas. A local, he spent 15 years
working in Montbau and Gràcia. He wanted
something closer to home, to be surrounded
people who share his music tastes – soul,
blues and R&B. Mission accomplished.
Gin and lemonade
The real jewel in the crown of Plaça d’Eivissa
isn’t to be found in any of the bars, but at ice
cream shop L’Eivissenca (Pl. Eivissa, 3; T. 93
429 66 52). And it’s not the ice creams,
although they’re excellent, or the orxata, it’s the
granissats de pomada, ice slushies made with
Xoriguer gin from Menorca and old-fashioned
lemonade. To keep your feet on the ground,
there’s nothing quite like the sandwiches at
Louise Se Va (Pl. Eivissa, 11; T. 93 407 20 33),
a rock ‘n’ roll cafè whose owner tried to expand
the district’s nightlife with a disco of the same
name, but which eventually came to nothing. A
22 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
pity, they tell us at Duplex (Pl. Bacardí, 8; T. 93
125 30 60). Oscar, the man behind the bar,
says the disco made Horta nights much livelier.
Now there are many who don’t even stay local
for an early drink. Their loss. Duplex has beers
from around the world and excellent gin &
tonics, with Galician Nordés top choice.
The real experts in mixed drinks of all kinds,
however, are to be found at Teràpia (Horta, 4;
T. 93 328 22 48). It’s only a few yards from
Samba Brasil (Pl. Santes Creus, 20; T. 93 420
66 53). The day I went, I witnessed, shortly
after 11pm, a troupe of samba students
looking happier than Ronaldinho in post-goal
ecstasy. And I enjoyed a capirinha neither too
sweet nor too bitter. Perfect. But it’s true, a
disco for everyone is missing. More of a sweaty
basement than a cool club. A small-town affair,
playing summer hits from 20 years ago, various
whisper in the air to remind you that round here,
everyone knows everything about everyone.
Manohra, a Thai
place to eat street
food and other
typical dishes in a
classy joint
By Ricard Martín
Photos Ivan Giménez
Mr. China
Your best bet here is to forget the disappointing
sushi and the set lunch menu – irrelevant
enticements for casual passers-by. This is a real
Chinese restaurant, where the staff are ultrafriendly but barely speak Spanish, and where
it’s worth immersing yourself in the seriously
comprehensive menu to sample specialities
dumplings stuffed with spicy pork, or BeijingUV[NGPQQFNGUKPCDGGHUCWEGOKZGFYKVJUKZ
raw vegetables. If you’re a fan of authentic
Chinese cooking, this is the place for you.
Around €12
Muntaner, 10 ⓣ 93 328 39 78
Un Capítol de Vietnam
In contrast to the scorching heat of some SouthEastern Asian food, Vietnamese cuisine is fresh
and light, with plenty of subtle steamed dishes.
While the cuisine may be less well-known than
Chinese or Thai, a visit to Un Capítol de Vietnam
will nevertheless strike some familiar notes.
Opened in 1987 by husband and wife team Cun
Pau and Xoi Kiu – refugees from the war with
24 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
Cambodia – it has a friendly neighbourhood feel
the street food classics – nems, spring rolls –
but also an arsenal of dishes for the
adventurous such as a stew with caramelised
pork belly, which is not unlike the Catalan
capipota (calf’s head and feet).
Nàpols, 266 ⓣ 93 459 39 16
Barcelona’s interior designers have committed
it’s a pleasant surprise to see one of them in
charge of a working kitchen. This is the
situation at Kiku, a new izakaya-style tavern
Elisava design school, and spent eight years
living in Japan and learning to cook. At Kiku she
sources local produce to offer a dining
Raval – all the classic izakaya dishes, from
edamame and tofu dishes to yakisoba and
gyoza, as well as sushi.
Around €20-€25. Set lunch menu: €16
Hospital, 104 ⓣ 93 329 82 77
Don’t call it fusion
– at Hisako they
get creative with
the elegance of
Japanese cooking
Find sushi a tad expensive? If so, it’s
worth knowing that Taka, the chef at
the fabulous La Cuina de l’Uribou, has
just opened SushiBou (Poeta
Cabanyes, 6), where he serves up topquality sushi at €3 for a plate of two
nigiri. Admittedly, at this price you
won’t get blueƁn belly, but you will get
exquisite salmon, gilt head bream or
tuna. For fantastic value for money,
check out Chen Ji (Alí Bei, 65), popular
with workers at the many Chinese
garment wholesalers on C/Trafalgar,
where a bowl of pork rib soup and a
plate of dim sum will only set you back
€10. At the other end of the spectrum,
Koy Shunka (Sagristans, 5) is one of
the world’s great Japanese
restaurants, and the Ɓrst in Barcelona
to receive a Michelin star.
Make a note of the name, because this new
restaurant looks set to become a cult classic.
grandmother’s name – has opened an izakaya
had worked at Carme Ruscalleda’s Michelinstarred Sant Pau and who swore that he’d never
given rise to a menu full of surprises, such as
the breaded olives stuffed with minced beef
brochettes. They’re not happy with the fusion
perfectionism applied to Catalan ingredients
with great creativity.
€20-€25. Set lunch menu €16
Londres, 91 ⓣ 629 446 503
Yubari – named after the Japanese Yubari
impression, with its high-design interior and fake
aquarium (it’s actually a video mural). As for the
food, it’s a festival of Japanese creativity with
made from soba noodles – the sushi is also
impeccable. What makes it unique in Barcelona
is the Kio Bar, where the bartender works with
the pastry chef to pair cocktails and desserts.
Around €70
Diagonal, 339, bis ⓣ 93 348 40 73
and street food, and the recently opened
Manohra is a master of both, with high stools
and tables to one side, and to the other a
raised area where diners lounge on princely
cushions. This is Joan Castells and Chenita
Ledovitse’s second venture, and it hews close
to the style of Thai food that has proved a
success with discerning Barcelona diners.
Manohra serves traditional Thai food, as
spicy, sweet, savoury and sweet-and-sour.’ Their
green papaya salad with spicy lime dressing will
Muntaner, 185 ⓣ 93 105 72 24
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 25
t was only last year that the food truck touched down in Barcelona,
and already, not even halfway through 2015, it seems destined to
Alto Market, where meals on wheels are a big attraction, with 12,000
however, there’s a vacuum. Article 39 of the city ordinance on the use of
as fairs or festivals’. He says the legislation is so strict because a
mortar businesses that give a district cohesiveness’. It’s a view radically
Yango. The chef reminds us that in Montreal – where he has a branch of
when they saw there was a demand, the trend was embraced. He
restaurants. But when asked if it would make sense to legalise them in
underused industrial zones, where there are no eateries, he admits, ‘It’s
This ultracool 1972 Citröen coffee truck lives a pampered lifestyle: it has its own
pied-à-terre from Monday to Friday, 9am-1.30pm, in the designer loft offices of
Castel Veciana architects (Pamplona, 88). The beyond-blackness of a perfect
coffee – just roasted, with a dash of fresh milk, prepared by a qualified barista on
the finest equipment – will leave you trembling with pleasure. One warning: if you
ask for a decaf they’ll laugh you out of town.
‘One argument against them is
that in Spain, people generally
like sit round a table to eat. And
it’s true. However this style of
eating isn’t setting out to
supplant traditions, but to
complement them. There are
other options that weren’t
common 30 years ago that now,
thankfully, we’ve made our own:
from shorter mealtimes to
different kinds of food. It’s true
that food trucks don’t make sense
in all places and at all times,
especially not in the Eixample, but
they’re definitely valid if they allow
26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
you to reach areas and times of
day that conventional businesses
can’t cover. Besides, we do have a
strong culture of eating out on the
street – all the gastronomic
traditions of the festa major.’
–Xavier Boneta (co-director of
Van Van Mercat).
Thai cuisine has one of the strongest street food traditions in the world: it’s only
logical that Daniel Pérez, co-owner of the outstanding El Petit Bangkok, should
put his kitchen on wheels. The repertoire of this colourful little truck might seem
short: just a classic pad thai (noodles, shrimp, tamarind, peanuts) and two
curries, one mild and one spicy. But freshly cooked in the van by expert Thai
chefs, they’ll bowl you over.
Urban pseudo-hipsters, doff your hats to La Creperie de Mariöne. Mariona Barceló,
a vintage Volkswagen fanatic, opened her crêperie-on-wheels in 2010, with ‘km 0’
products. The doyenne of Catalan food trucks now has a fleet of seven: five
creperies, one serving ice cream and drinks, and one pizzas. And forget the
standard : they offer innovative combos like their goats cheese crêpe with fig jam.
Also available for weddings!
A heavyweight on the scene, and not because their truck is especially big. A year
ago, chef Javi Ruz – who trained with the world’s best at El Celler de Can Roca – and
pastry chef and community manager Sílvia Cabra partnered up to serve the kind of
sandwiches you’d never find at a traditional Spanish fairground. Locally sourced
produce, organic Vienna buns, and the ridiculously delicious pulled pork and ginger
roll, with plum conserve and grated celery. Their van has a sister, Caravan Vermut.
‘Food trucks make sense in the
kind of urban environment you
find in the USA, where you might
have to go miles to find a
restaurant. And where people only
have 20 minutes to eat. Obviously,
if the food’s good, maybe even of
interest in its own right, it’s better
than McDonald’s. But I can’t
imagine it here. Our own homegrown food trucks have been
around forever, at funfairs and
festivals. Now they want them
everywhere? Where? In the
Eixample, where there’s a bar
serving food every five metres?
If you belong to that part of the population that can’t get enough of more-ish
smoked food, this is the truck for you. Rooftop Smokehouse started last year as a
pop-up restaurant, and they’ve since taken their food on the road in a woodpanelled truck. They travel with a great range of produce and a Penedès oak wine
barrel in which fish, octopus and duck breast take on wonderful woody flavours.
Pastrami, smoked for 12 hours, with sauerkraut and horseradish sauce... Mmmm.
You can cook reasonably good
food in a truck, but it’s not going
to be the same as a restaurant.
It’s people chasing a trend, who
feel the restaurant has had its
day. It doesn’t fit with our culture –
we can’t import everything.’
–Philippe Regol (food critic)
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 27
You have
one hour
By Montserrat Rossell
Robí, 10 (Gràcia)
Grassot, 97 (Gràcia)
Av. Meridiana, 129 (El Clot)
28 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
Rei Martí, 33 (Hostafrancs)
Valladolid, 25 (Sants)
From €20/person
Nàpols, 255 baixos (Eixample Dret)
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 29
Shopping & Style
Sant Antoni
intersection of C/Parlament and
C/Viladomat has become a golden triangle
of cool. By Eugènia Sendra
Sant Antoni is no longer just a
place to go for a late-afternoon
vermouth: shops new and old on
Parlament and Viladomat are
staking a claim. Small businesses
that are big on charm, and
showrooms for original art and
design complement the
neighbourhood’s bars and
eateries, contributing to its ongoing
renaissance: the latest news is
association, and will soon start
promoting the area in earnest.
One of the first of the new wave of
businesses to open in Sant Antoni,
almost three years ago, was Valnot
(Viladomat, 30). Restorer David
Castellet was looking for a
premises for his workshop, and
ended up in an elongated space
with a traditional mezzanine floor,
which for the previous 30 years had
been used by a varnisher, and then
a violin-maker. As he was settling in,
he discovered that El Recibidor
(Viladomat, 9) was opening a few
doors down the street: a store and
showroom with a judicious
selection of Scandinavian and
vintage furniture. They don’t step on
each other’s toes: each has their
own customers and their own style
of working, says Castellet, who is a
huge fan of the decorative rarities
he picks up at the city’s markets; in
furniture, he always looks for the
original patina, the bare wood. He
also designs his own pieces, such
as sofas made from old car seats,
and upstairs he offers courses for
those who want to restore family
heirlooms to their former glory.
At 1Unik (Parlament, 13), the
order of the day is originality, and
the philosophy is upcycling:
rescuing, restoring and reusing
discarded objects. Owner Clara
Calvo makes use of anything she
30 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
finds, from old colanders to an early
20th-century electric iron, wooden
doors and windows, ceramic door
handles and lamp bases. Furniture
and lamps assembled from
assorted parts – she calls them her
Frankenstein’s monsters, and she
also makes them to order – sit side
by side with more conventional
pieces, dreamt up
by this former architect who is
determined to single-handedly
breathe new life into the
undervalued word craftsmanship.
Dressing the family
Kids are part of the
neighbourhood’s potential client
base, as evidenced by Petit Gegant
Edited by
Eugènia Sendra
[email protected]
A lively bookshop (Passatge
Pere Calders, 9) with a fantastic
selection of authors and titles,
as well as a busy programme of
book launches, recitals and talks.
(Parlament, 6) and newcomer Big
Family Kids (Parlament, 25). The
latter is run by ex–tattoo artist Laia
Picó, who offers a range of clothes
and accessories that are fun (and
at least a little rock ’n’ roll), from
local labels and handmade
producers, at affordable prices. Her
top sellers are the Lego tableware
(compatible with Lego blocks), soft
toys from French label The
Déglingos, and music-themed
babygrows from Cantabalarana.
There are also plenty of options
for the grown-ups. Trait Store
(Parlament, 28) is a concept store
run by two fans of gadgets and
fashion who met while working at
Apple. For spring this year, Gabriel
Ortiz and João Novaes picked
Nordic labels with clean lines for
men, and Spanish designers who
pay close attention to fabrics and
design, such as Diarte and Paloma
Wool, for women. They have
sneakers from Vans, Reebok and
Converse, sunglasses from Danish
label Han Kjøbenhavn, and
Sandqvist backpacks, rounding out
a catalogue of products that
includes beard gels (from Oak
Beard Wash), watches and wireless
speakers from Nixon, magazines
like Misery Connoisseur, and
Berlin-based jewellery line Haute
Kuki & Die Markise.
Trait Store draws inspiration from
Voo, the legendary Berlin fashion
and design store, and Berlin was
also the birthplace of Velociutat
(Viladomat, 14), Carles Fernández’s
classic bike restoration project. He
has collectors’ pieces, such as a
carbon fibre Colnago that competed
in 1992, and a Raleigh ridden to
victory in the Tour de France in
1977. Fernández repairs all kinds
of bikes, with a special interest in
vintage French and German
models. Cycling togs from Le Coq,
helmets from Abus and vintage
saddles from San Marino share wall
space in his workshop, which is
presided over by the iconic photo of
Coppi and Bartali.
A ‘cultural laboratory’ (Parlament,
26) that has been pushing fresh
ideas and new talents since it
opened in 2012. Their stable of new
artists is worth keeping track of.
An art and design showroom
and store (Viladomat, 27), that
prides itself on supporting and
promoting the work of the
city’s emerging creators.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 31
Shopping & Style
Your inspiration
Vincent Ferré and César Segarra celebrate creative local souls with Hipsters from
Ferré talks about individuality,
insecurities and revealing
personalities such as Susan Sontag,
the second part of whose diaries
were published in 2013 (Penguin).
HfS sends out weekly dispatches
about the careers of different
creatives, accompanied by photos of
still lifes that inspire them (above,
taken from one on Maria Herreros).
The pair admire the creations of
Krizia Robustella and company. KR
Store (Sant Pere Més Alt, 50).
Clothes express themselves silently,
says Ferré, a fan of second-hand.
Humana (Roger de Llúria, 9).
They’re obsessed with the new
generation of creatives: ‘they’re the
way’, say Segarra and Ferré. The duo
highlight photographer Coco Capitán,
and designer Guillem Rodríguez.
Their story starts in Fotolog,
continues at Benicàssim, and was
forged once and for all in the
fashion sector, which absorbed
them without a backward glance.
Journalist Vincent Ferré (pictured,
left), editor of i-D Spain, and
photographer César Segarra
(pictured, right), who has shot
campaigns for Zara and muro.exe,
are friends and digital creatures
who admire each other’s work.
Which is how they came to take a
leap of faith and launch Hipsters
from Spain (HfS), a project that has
been running for just over a year, to
creatives from across Spain.
They’ve visited the home of
architect Benedetta Tagliabue,
viewed the biggest collection of Art
Toyz, owned by Juan Redón, and
photographed and chatted with
DJs, bloggers and designers. This
exercise in curating, which they do
philanthropically, has started to
open doors for them. ‘The only
thing that’s not serious about it is
the name’, say the pair, who pose,
speak and act in such a way that
suggests, just maybe, they want to
be hip too.
SALE SAMPLES A playful palette
Flowers, both natural
and dried, converted
into rings, decorative
pieces for the home
and delicate hair
bands are the speciality
of Suite Room. You’ll find their shop
in the Born district, where they sell
their creations alongside products
from local florist Gang and the Wool,
and scarves from Italy and India.
Flassaders, 25.
Barcelona rucksack brand Lori is
winning fans across the world,
from Australia to Germany and the
USA. While creator Marián Pérez
originally made her signature bags
just for children (and a few one-offs
specially made for select grown-ups),
she is now preparing a collection for
adults. You can spot her products a
mile off, thanks to the colourful, pretty
material she uses, and their appealing
With the arrival of Happy Socks in
Barcelona, daily footwear is no longer a
boring subject. But what about sports
fans? Will they have to stick to classic
white socks? Definitely
not. The Athletic range
combines comfort and
colour, including stripes,
spots, ethnic designs
and more. Run to get
your hands on a pair or
two. Argenteria, 59.
32 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
The latest international fashion
company to land in Barcelona is GAP,
which has set itself up on the fourth
floor of the El Corte Inglés department
store on the corner of Plaça Catalunya
and La Rambla. As well as a
range of clothes from the classic
US brand, you’ll find many other
top names such as Tommy
Hilfiger, New Balance and the
in-house Sfera label.
Plaça Catalunya, 23.
Shopping & Style
Put the rest in the shade
Acetate frames, quality lenses and European design unite in the latest
sunglasses – essential for enjoying BCN’s outdoor lifestyle. By Eugènia Sendra
At Wilde (Avinyó,
21 & Joaquín
Costa, 2) they
stock both vintage
glasses and their
own creations.
These ‘original’ vintage glasses capture the spirit of
Courrèges. €95.20. Le Swing Vintage. Rec, 16.
The combination of acetates in this Kerbs design goes
beyond elegant. €180. Alfred Kerbs. Avinyó, 21.
Etnia Barcelona’s Wild Love Africa collection have
animal magic. €169. Santa Eulalia. Pg. de Gràcia, 93.
They have a ’30s air but were created by Kenzo Takada
for Masunaga. €490. Les Lunettes. Pg. de Gràcia, 53.
The stripes and colours create a carefree luxe design
from Illesteva. €268. DM Optics. Gran de Gràcia, 6.
Komono opts for quality finishes and trendy
colours. €89.95. 12 Pulgadas. Duran i Bas, 1.
This extreme example of retro-futurism is for
sophisticates only. €270. Wilde. Joaquín Costa, 2.
A hint of colour + a classic shape = top Sheriff&Cherry
shades. €125. Studiostore. Comerç, 17.
BCN company Palens specialises in artisan
wooden frames. €125. B-Lab. Ample, 9.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 33
Things to Do
Edited by
Maria Junyent
[email protected]
This two-storey temple to the
comic is a Barcelona classic. The
ground floor is dedicated to
Spanish and European comics
along with essential merch for
fans who need figurines to feed
their habit (pictured top and
bottom right). The first floor
focuses on Japan and the States,
as well as a space dedicated to
vintage US comics with editions
that date from the ’20s to the
’80s. Via Laietana, 29 (Gòtic).
It doesn’t matter if you grew up
worshipping Stan Lee or Frank
Miller, following the sagas of
Godzilla or Star Wars, or if you can
argue till you’re blue in the face
over the work of Art Spiegelman,
Daniel Clowes or Jacques Tardi.
Norma is a comic aficionado’s
Barcelona loves comics. The city is
stuffed full of places to get your hands
on vintage and new graphic novels,
comics and related paraphernalia.
By Liz Claverí
paradise, whichever genre,
character or artist you’re devoted
to (pictured above left). There’s a
floor aimed at cinephiles, and the
window displays aren’t afraid to
put Jack Skellington right next to
Spriou. Holy battle of good versus
evil! Pg. de Sant Joan, 9 (Eixample
Your eyes will stand out on stalks
as you enter this small cave packed
with stories about bears hunting
salmon and the latest graphic
novels from the hottest authors. It
features everything from classic
comic books to pure artistic
illustration (pictured above centre).
Lluna, 10 (Raval). www.
For over 15 years, Universal has
been dedicated to the art of the
comic, whether it’s Japanese
manga, French comics or American
graphic novels. They also have a
big section of second-hand items,
including one-of-a-kind Marvel and
DC Comics gems. Ronda Sant
Antoni, 9 (Sant Antoni). www.
better: he doesn’t make small
talk. After perusing for half an
hour, all you have to do is pay in
civilised silence before carrying
off your newly purchased bundle
of joy. Just as it should be. Marià
Aguilló, 82 (Poblenou).
From the street it looks like
one of those video shops with
the automated rental
machines. But inside it’s
a large space all about
comics, new and
second-hand, with a
preference for US
stories of terror and
superheroes. The
owner has the power to
mind-meld with his
clients, finding the
exact books that suit
their taste, and even
34 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
Getting into gear
Formula 1 is back in town this month as the likes of Alonso, Hamilton and Vettel roar up for
the Spanish Grand Prix. By Mitchell Haines
In the beginning
This year’s event will be the 45th
staged in 1951 and saw Juan
took in the streets of the
Pedralbes neighbourhood. The
route started on Avenida del
Generalísimo Francisco Franco
(now Avinguda Diagonal) and it
featured just six corners.
the sport. Son of an English
marriage three years ago and is
believed to be worth some
US$3.8 billion (with today’s
exchange rates, that’s about
€3.5 billion to you and me).
Can you hear the drums,
Fernando Alonso delighted the
home crowd with wins in 2006
Renault and the second for
Ferrari; the latter remains his
most recent race victory in any
Grand Prix. However, no driver has
won in Montmeló more times
than Michael Schumacher, who
made it six between 1995 and
2004. Mika Häkkinen is next up
on three, while the only others to
win there more than once are
Nigel Mansell and Kimi
Locations, locations
After Pedralbes and Montjuïc in
Barcelona, Jarama near Madrid
and Jerez de la Frontera in
that’s hosted the Spanish GP is
the Circuit de BarcelonaCatalunya near the town of
Montmeló on the outskirts of
Barcelona – home to the race
event, Nigel Mansell and Ayrton
Senna famously banged wheels
become one of F1’s all-time
greatest television moments.
Watch out for drivers in the city!
Practically the entire F1 grid will
be staying in Barcelona city from
midweek until race day. McLaren
drivers Alonso and Jenson
Button could well be spotted
around the Hilton Hotel in
Diagonal Mar, while the Fairmont
Rey Juan Carlos I at the other end
of Av. Diagonal is also a favourite.
The silver-haired 84-year-old
Bernie Ecclestone started off as
a driver, later became a team
manager and then pioneered the
television production of F1 to
control all commercial rights to
Itinerant monthly market that’s on for a
whole weekend, combining second-hand
and vintage products with new artistic
works. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). May 2-3,
One for the men (and women who like a
masculine look), this is the brother event
of Brick Lane BCN, one of the city’s first
vintage markets. See
theboymarket for date and venue info.
Buy or exchange quality second-hand
books, music, clothes and accessories
at this event aiming to rein in excessive
consumption. Plaça Blanquerna. May
10, 11am-7pm.
Inaugurated in 2012 by two women, one
French and the other Italian, Fabulous
brings together vintage goods and
designer pieces. Date tbc. See Fabulous
Market BCN on Facebook for details.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 35
Things to Do
Day by day
Information and sales:
Tourist Information Points and
FREE This activity is free
* The dates of league matches
may be moved forward or back
one day, depending on TV
broadcast schedules
Friday 1
Food and drink
Biergarten. Beer festival
Trad German festival with
competitions, frankfurters,
pretzels and plenty of beer.
Main square Poble Espanyol (Av.
Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M:
Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). May 1-2
noon-2am; May 3 noon-5pm.
D’A International Festival
Annual event dedicated to auteur
cinema from around the world.
Various venues including CCCB and
Filmoteca de Catalunya. Until May
Santa Maria del Mar rooftop
Guided tours to the top of this
historic church for great city views.
(Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M:
Jaume I (L4). Mon-Fri 12pm to 5pm
(every hour, last entry 4pm). Sat,
Sun, public holidays 11am to 5pm
(every hour, last entry 4pm).€10
(general). €8 (reduced). Booking:
Torre Bellesguard |
Tours of Gaudí’s modernista
castle on the slopes of Tibidabo.
(Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo
(FGC). English: Wed to Sun 11am.
€16. €12.80 (reduced)
Secret Basilica del Pi
Night-time visits to the 14th-century
Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi.
Santa Maria del Pi Church (Plaça del
Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). May 1, 2, 7, 8, 9,
14, 15, 21, 22, 23, 28, 29 and 30.
Thu, Fri 9.20pm (English). Sat
9.50pm (English). €22 (general). €9
(in advance). adsentiabarcelona.
To space and back
3D projection shows how space
technology is now part of daily life.
CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26) M:
Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Daily 10am-8pm.
Activity included in entry fee.
Strategies for living beings
Games and models show how
shapes, colours and behaviour help
living creatures survive.
CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M:
Av. Tibidabo (FGC). May 1-Jun 21.
See web for times: cosmocaixa.
com/agenda. €4. From 5 years.
BCN Beach Soccer Cup 2015
Teams from eight top international
clubs including Barça compete in
this knockout tournament.
May 1-3. Organised by Beach Soccer
47th BCN International Polo
Six teams take part in a sporting and
social event that matches players’
skill with the power of their horses.
May 1-3. Organised by Reial Club de
Saturday 2
Interactive visit to ‘Toca, Toca’
Find out how to protect the different
ecosystems of our planet.
CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M:
Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun,
public hols 10am-8pm. €4. See web
for info:
Follow in the footsteps of the
Discover all about the three-horned,
10-tonne beast and other dinos.
CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M:
Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun,
public hols 10am-8pm. €2. See web
for info:
Human towers
FREE Castellers at Maremagnum
Human towers and pillars at
waterside shopping centre.
(Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes
(L3) & Barceloneta (L4). Every Sat
in May. 6.30pm.
Tibidabo theme park |
Enjoy a range of activities at
Barcelona’s historical theme park.
(Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Funicular del
TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Andreu). FGC:
Av.Tibidabo + tramvia blau or bus
196. Sat, Sun noon-8pm, 9pm
(closing time varies).
House-museum Casa Bloc
Workers’ apartment block, built
between 1932 and 1936, that is an
icon of rationalist architecture.
(C/ d’Almirall Pròixida, 1-3-5). M:
Torras i Bages (L1). Sat 11am,
12.30pm. €3 (advance booking
necessary). Info and booking:
Sant Pau modernista
Once a working hospital, this
network of pavilions was designed
by Lluís Domenech i Montaner.
(Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M:
Sant Pau – Dos de Maig (L5). Tours
in various languages; consult for
schedule. Mon-Fri 10.30am-1pm.
Sat, Sun, public holidays 10.30am1.30pm. €14. €9.80 (reduced).
Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia
Take a trip on a beautifully
restored three-masted schooner.
Maritime Museum (Av. de les
Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3).
Sat 9.30am. €12 adults. €6 kids.
Sunday 3
Human towers
FREE Castellers at Maremagnum
Human towers and pillars at
waterside shopping centre.
(Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes
(L3) & Barceloneta (L4). Every Sun
in May, noon.
36 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
FREE Baluard Gardens
Visit renovated gardens tucked
behind the only remaining gateway
of the city’s medieval walls. (Av. de
les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes
(L3). 1st and 3rd Sun 11am-2pm.
FREE Guided tour of Poblenou
Explore one of Barcelona’s
historical cemeteries.
(Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). 1st
and 3rd Sun 10.30am (Catalan) &
12.30pm (Spanish).
FREE Visit CCCB rooftop terrace
See Barcelona from the top of this
city centre building.
(Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat (L1,
L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3). First
Sunday of the month
* League fixture. RCD
Espanyol – Rayo Vallecano
Espanyol face the Madrid side.
Date and time TBC. More info: www. Estadi Cornellà El Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100.
Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC:
Cornellà Riera
Family planetarium
Find out how sailors use stars and
planets to navigate.
Maritime Museum (Av. de les
Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3).
11.30am, 12.45pm. €4, €2.50 kids.
Monday 4
Family al fresco
FREE Celebrating 25 years of
the Catalonia Formula 1
Special events to mark Catalonia’s
25th F1 Grand Prix. Various venues
including Pg. de Gràcia. May 4-10.
Santa Maria del Mar rooftop
See Fri 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria,
1). M: Jaume I (L4).
Things to Do
Tuesday 5
Human towers
Castellers practice
Gràcia’s Colla Castellera rehearse
their spectacular skills.
Can Musons (Alzina, 7). M: Joanic
(L4). 8pm.
Tour of Liceu opera house
Discover Barcelona’s glorious
opera house, carefully restored
(La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3).
Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. €14.
Santa Maria del Mar rooftop
See Fri 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1).
M: Jaume I (L4).
Strategies for living beings
See Fri 1. (CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26) M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Friday 8
Human towers
Wednesday 6
Castellers practice
See Tue 5. Can Musons (Alzina, 7).
M: Joanic (L4).
The Secret Pedrera
Delve into the corners of Gaudí’s
building with this night-time tour.
(Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal
(L3, L5) and Provença (FGC). WedSat 7pm-10.30pm. €30.
Palau de la Música
Tour this emblematic building of
Catalan modernisme.
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1, L4). Daily tours
10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 (reduced).
Sant Pau modernista
See Sat 2. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant
Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant
Pau-Dos de Maig (L5).
Torre Bellesguard
See Sun 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M:
Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Thursday 7
To space and back
See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Family al fresco
FREE Celebrating 25 years of
the Catalonia Formula 1
See Mon 4. Various venues
including Pg. de Gràcia.
Formula 1 Pirelli Spanish
Grand Prix 2015
F1 fever hits Catalonia. With its mix
of high- and low-speed corners,
Barcelona’s circuit pushes drivers
to the limit. See page 35.
Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya
(Camí Mas Moreneta, Montmeló).
Montmeló (RENFE). May 8-10.
More info:
The Secret Pedrera
See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265).
M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC).
Saturday 9
2nd Film Cycle at Hash
Marihuana & Hemp Museum
history and use of cannabis.
Palau Mornau (Ample, 35). M:
Drassanes (L3). Tel. 93 319 75
39. May 9-31. 10am-10pm.
Secret Basilica del Pi
See Fri 1.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 37
Things to Do
Santa Maria del Pi (Plaça del Pi, 7).
M: Liceu (L3).
Sant Pau modernista
See Sat 2. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant
Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant
Pau-Dos de Maig (L5).
House-museum Casa Bloc
See Sat 2. (C/ d’Almirall Pròixida,
1-3-5). M: Torras i Bages (L1).
Tibidabo theme park |
See Sat 2. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4).
Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor
Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia
blau or bus 196.
Explore the world of crystals
From diamonds to common
minerals, crystals are beautiful,
fascinating – and very useful.
CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M:
Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). May 9-10
10am-7pm. Included in entry fee.
BCN Int’l Motor Show 2015
The latest innovations and trends in
motor vehicles, from connected
cars to sustainability.
Fira de Barcelona (Av. Reina Maria
Cristina, 2-16). M: Espanya (L1, L3;
FGC). May 9-17. More info: www.
Bim Bom, babies at the Palau
A chance for parents and babies to
experience music together.
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1, L4). May 9 4.30pm
and 6pm; May 10 11am, 12.30pm
and 4.30pm.
Hands-on lab where kids can make
CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M:
Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun
and public holidays. €4. From 3 to 6
Sunday 10
FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc
Visit Barcelona’s hillside graveyard.
Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de
Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya
(L1, L3; FGC). 2nd & 4th Sun 11am
(Catalan) and 11.15am (Spanish).
Cosmobot 2015
The biggest robotics competition
in Spain, with entries from top
robotics researchers.
CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M:
Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). 10am7pm. Included in entry fee.
Guided tour of Torre Barró
Discover the history of a rarely
visited corner of BCN, with
spectacular views.
(Ctra. Alta Roquetes). Until May 24.
11.45am-12.45pm. €5.10. For
more info: tel.93 256 21 22 or
When stories are musical
The museum’s storyteller brings
the history and sound of each
instrument to life.
Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150)
M: Glòries (L1) , Monumental (L2)
and Marina (L4). 5.30pm
Clown festival
A celebration of clowns and
clowning with shows, workshops
and activities.
La Pedrera (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M:
Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC).
11am-7pm. €9.
Follow in the footsteps of the
See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Word games
Family show with the Rosa Fité
theatre company. In Catalan.
Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc
Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya
(L1, L3; FGC). 12.30pm. €13
adults, €8 children.
Brunch + music
Brunch Electronik Barcelona
Open-air fun with a DJ set from
Main square Poble Espanyol (Av.
Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M:
Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Noon9pm. €13-€15.
Wednesday 13
Torre Bellesguard |
* League fixture. FC
See Sun 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M:
Barcelona – Real Sociedad
Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Barça face Basque team.
Liceu opera house
Date and time TBC. Info:
Book your
See Thu 7. (La Rambla
59). M: Liceu (L3).
Camp Nou (Aristides
restaurants at
Maillol, s/n). M: Les
Corts (L3)
Monday 11
To space and back
See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Strategies for living beings
See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Santa Maria del
Mar rooftop
See Fri 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1).
M: Jaume I (L4).
Thursday 14
Spanish Golf Open
The El Prat golf course in Terrassa
hosts this key tournament.
Real Club de Golf El Prat (Plans de
Bonvilar, 17, Terrassa). May 14-17.
Drassanes, history of life
A dramatised tour brings to life the
city’s medieval Royal Shipyards.
Maritime Museu (Av. de les
Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes
(L3). 11am. €10, €7 children
Palau de la Música
See Wed 6. (Palau de la Música,
4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4).
Friday 15
The Secret Pedrera
See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265).
M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC).
Palau de la Música
See Wed 6. (Palau de la Música,
4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4).
Tuesday 12
Strategies for living beings
See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Formula 1 Test Days
After the Grand Prix, teams put
their cars through their paces on
the track.
Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya
(Camí Mas Moreneta, Montmeló).
Montmeló (RENFE). May 12-13.
More info:
38 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
The Secret Pedrera
See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265).
M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC).
Saturday 16
FREE Night of the Museums
Many of Barcelona’s museums
open late to mark International
Museum Day on May 18. See
page 42. Various museums. www. and www.
Secret Basilica del Pi
See Fri 1. Santa Maria del Pi (Plaça
del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).
Things to Do
Astronomical observation
A night of astronomy, with experts on
hand to help you spot Venus, Jupiter
and other celestial bodies.
CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M:
Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). 7pm-1am.
Delve into the universe
Nocturnal sessions at the musem’s
planetarium. CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo
(FGC). 10pm, 11pm, midnight.
Human towers
Interactive visit to ‘Toca, Toca’
See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Sunday 17
Human towers
FREE Anniversary Castellers
Vila de Gràcia
Gràcia’s castellers celebrate 18
years of human tower building. (Pl.
Vila de Gràcia). M: Fonanta (L3). Noon.
FREE Castellers at Maremagnum
See Sat 2. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M:
Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4).
FREE Diada de Can Bandarra in
Annual festival for Poble-sec’s
castellers. (C/Blesa). Noon.
The world of Playmobil
Workshops, collectibles, dioramas.
Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer
i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3;
FGC). May 16-17. 10am-8pm.
FREE Baluard Gardens
See Sun 3. (Av. de les Drassanes,
s/n). M: Drassanes (L3).
See Sun 3. (Av. Icària, s/n). M:
Llacuna (L4).
Guided Tour of Torre Barró
See Sun 10. (Ctra. Alta Roquetes).
Bubble planetarium
Kids learn about planetary orbits
and the stars in this practical
workshop.CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo
(FGC). Sat, Sun, public holidays. €4.
FREE Guided tour of Poblenou
* League fixture. RCD
Espanyol – Real Madrid
See Ronaldo, Bale et al in action.
Date and time TBC. More info: www. Estadi Cornellà El Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100.
Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà
Monday 18
Palau de la Música
See Wed 6. (Palau de la Música,
4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4).
Liceu opera house
See Thu 7. (La Rambla 51-59). M:
Liceu (L3).
Tuesday 19
Human towers
Castellers practice session
See Tue 5. Can Musons (Alzina, 7).
M: Joanic (L4).
Guided tour of Reial Acadèmia
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 39
Things to Do
Discover the history of Barcelona’s
Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
Reial Acadèmia de Belles Arts de
Sant Jordi, Casa Llotja (Pg. d’Isabel
II, 1-7). M: Barceloneta (L4). 11am.
Wednesday 20
Torre Bellesguard
See Sun 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av.
Tibidabo (FGC).
The Secret Pedrera
See Wed 6. (Provença, 261). M:
Diagonal (L3, L5), Provença (FGC).
Thursday 21
Secret Basilica del Pi
See Fri 1. Santa Maria del Pi (Plaça
del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).
Friday 22
2nd Film Cycle at Hash
Marihuana & Hemp Museum
See Sat 9. Palau Mornau (Ample,
35). M: Drassanes (L3) &
Barceloneta (L4).
Saturday 23
House-museum Casa Bloc
See Sat 2. (C/ d’Almirall Pròixida,
1-3-5). M: Torras i Bages (L1).
Human towers
Festa Catalana in Barcelona
Get to know some of Catalonia’s
most popular cultural activities,
such as human towers.(Av. de la
Catedral). M: Jaume 1 (L4). 7pm.
What are we researching today?
Free science activity included
with museum entry fee.
CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26).
M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun
public hols, 10am-8pm.
Sunday 24
FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc
See Sun 10. Cementiri de Montjuïc
(Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M:
Espanya (L1, L3; FGC)
Word games
See Sun 10. Poble Espanyol (Av.
Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M:
Espanya (L1, L3; FGC).
* League fixture. FC Barcelona
– Deportivo La Coruña
It’s almost the end of the league –
can Barça triumph? Date and time
TBC. More info: www.fcbarcelona.
cat. Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol,
s/n). M: Les Corts (L3).
Brunch + music
Brunch Electronik Barcelona
See Sun 10. Poble Espanyol (Av.
Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M:
Espanya (L1, L3; FGC)
Monday 25
Santa Maria del Mar rooftop
See Fri 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1).
M: Jaume I (L4).
Liceu opera house
See Thu 7. (La Rambla 51-59). M:
Liceu (L3).
Tuesday 26
Human towers
Castellers practice session
See Tue 5.
Can Musons (Alzina, 7).
M: Joanic (L4).
Strategies for living beings
See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
Wednesday 27
Palau de la Música
See Wed 6. (Palau de la Música,
4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4).
Saturday 30
Human towers
FREE Castellers at
See Sat 2. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M:
Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4).
‘Reclaim the street’
Human towers with the castellers
of the Sants district.
(Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: M: Sants (L3,
L5). 6pm.
Sant Pau modernista monument|
See Sat 2. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant
Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant
Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia
Pau-Dos de Maig (L5).
See Sat 2. Maritime Museum (Av.
de les Drassanes, s/n). M:
Thursday 28
Drassanes (L3). Sat 9.30am. €12
adults. €6 kids.
Primavera Sound
Barcelona’s mega spring music
festival. See page 18.
Parc del Fòrum (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume
I (L4). May 28-30. www.
Loop 2015
Independent platform for video art
unique settings.
For info about venues and timings,
Secret Basilica del Pi
See Fri 1. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3)
Friday 29
2nd Film Cycle at Hash
Marihuana & Hemp Museum
See Sat 9.
Palau Mornau (Ample, 35). M:
Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4)
To space and back
See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac
Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).
40 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
King’s Cup Final. FC Barcelona –
Athletic de Bilbao
The teams battle it out for Spain’s
top trophy. Date and time TBC. More
info: Camp
Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). M: Les
Corts (L3).
Zig Zag
Songs, games and dance introduce
young children to the world of
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1, L4). 11am, 12.30pm
and 4.30pm. €14 adults, €6 kids.
Motor sports
Urban rally
Vintage and classic motorcycles on
a 60km urban rally circuit.
Various venues.
Sunday 31
Human towers
FREE Castellers at
See Sun 3. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M:
Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4).
Basílica de la
Sagrada Família
(Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada
Família (L2, L5). T. 93 513 20 60.
9am-8pm. Guided tour/with
audio guide: €19.50.
Barcelona’s most famous
landmark, begun by Antoni Gaudí
day. Ticket sales help fund the
ongoing construction of Spain’s
most popular tourist attraction.
Basílica de
Santa Maria del Mar
(Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M:
Jaume I (L4). T. 93 310 23 90.
Mon-Sat 9am-1.30pm, 4.30pm8pm; Sun and public holidays
10.30am-1.30pm, 4.30pm-8pm.
Wheelchair access.
Known as the ‘cathedral of the
Ribera’, this church is one of the
most perfect examples of gothic
architecture, thanks to the
harmony of its proportions and
its inherent serenity.
Basílica de
Santa Maria del Pi
(Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) +
Jaume I (L4). T. 93 318 47 43.
Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 5pm8pm. €4. €3 (reduced). Guided
tour (including belltower): Sat
noon (advanced booking). €12.
€8 (reduced).
One of Barcelona’s grandest
Gothic churches, with great
views from its belltower.
Casa Batlló
(Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de
Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 216 03
06. 9am-9pm. €21.50. €18.50
(reduced). Last admission: 8pm.
More info:
The sensuality and harmony of its
interior, combined with Gaudí’s
use of colours, shapes and light
make this a must-see for admirers
of the architect’s work.
Gaudí Crypt
at Colònia Güell
(Claudi Güell, 6 – Santa Coloma
de Cervelló). M: Espanya (L1, L3)
& FGC (S4, S8, S33): Colònia
Güell. T. 93 630 58 07. Mon-Fri
10am-7pm; Sat, Sun, public hols
10am-3pm. €9 (incl. audio guide).
€7.50 (reduced).
Gaudí’s hidden treasure is a
UNESCO World Heritage Site
inside Colònia Güell, a planned
textile factory and residential
area 20 mins from Barcelona.
Gran Teatre del Liceu
(La Rambla, 51–59). M: Liceu
(L3). T. 93 485 99 14. Guided
tour: Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am.
€14. 30-minute tour: €6.
Visit one of the world’s great
opera houses: discover the
impressive concert hall and
exclusive private rooms that
make this one of Barcelona’s
most emblematic buildings.
La Pedrera
(Provença, 261–265). M:
Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202
138. 9am-8pm. Last admission:
7.30pm. €20.50. €16.50
Many Barcelona residents
regard this as Gaudí’s true
masterpiece. The roof terrace
represents modernista
Palau Güell
(Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M:
Drassanes & Liceu (L3). T. 93
472 57 75. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm.
Last admission: 7pm. Closed
Mon except public hols.
€12. €8 (reduced).
Built by Gaudí in the late 19th
century, this palace belonged to
his principal patron. The roof
terrace shouldn’t be missed.
Palau de la Música
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 295
72 00. 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11
(reduced). Under 10s free.
Step inside one of the most
beautiful modernista buildings
in the city, today a UNESCO
World Heritage Site.
Sant Pau, modernista
(Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M:
Sant Pau (L5). T. 93 553 78 01.
Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm; Sun,
public hols 10am-2.30pm. Selfguided tour: €8. €5.60 (reduced).
Guided tour: €14. €9.80 (reduced).
First Sunday of month and under
16s free. More info: www.
Tour the buildings and grounds of
Hospital Sant Pau, one of the
world’s largest Art Nouveau
monuments, recently restored
and opened to the public.
Torre Bellesguard
(Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo
(FGC). T. 93 250 40 93. Tue-Sun
10am-3pm. Closed Mon.
Panoramic tour: €7 (audio guide
to exterior, remains of Martin the
Humane’s palace, audiovisual
centre). Guided tour: €16 (tower
exterior and interior, roof terrace
access). English: Mon-Sat 11am.
Discover the modernista castle
that Antoni Gaudí built at the
foot of Tibidado mountain.
Aire de Barcelona,
Arab Baths
(Pg. de Picasso, 22). M:
Barceloneta (L4) & Jaume I (L4).
entry 10am; last entry between
10pm and midnight; Sat, Sun
and days before public holidays:
last entry between midnight and
These Arab baths revive the
ancient tradition of bathing as a
form of relaxation, in a gorgeous
Barcelona Urban Forest
(Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El
Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 117
34 26. Apr: Sat, Sun 10am-3pm,
4pm-8pm. €11-€27 (prices vary
depending on age and circuit).
Get some high-adrenaline
exercise in an urban adventure
park with over 30 attractions,
including zip lines, bungee
jumping, trampolines and more.
Gaudí Experience
(Larrard, 41). M: Lesseps (L3). T.
93 285 44 40. 10am-7pm. €9.
€7.50 (reduced).
A fascinating interactive journey
that uses 4-D technology to take
you inside Gaudí’s universe.
Poble Espanyol
(Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia,
13). M: Espanya (L1, L3). T. 93
508 63 00. Tue-Thu Sun 9ammidnight; Fri 9am-3am; Sat 9am4am. €12. €7, €8.40 (reduced).
Built for the 1929 Barcelona
Expo by modernista architect
Puig i Cadalfach, Poble Espanyol
is an open-air museum on
Montjuïc with replicas of
streets, squares and buildings
from all over Spain. Regularly
hosts live music events.
Tibidabo Amusement Park
(Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). Bus
Tibibus (T2A) from Plaça
Catalunya. M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC)
+ Tramvia Blau or Bus 196 +
Funicular del Tibidabo. T. 93 211
79 42. More info: www.tibidabo.
cat. Sky Walk: Mon-Fri 11am6pm. €12.70. Children
measuring less than 120cm:
€7.80. Amusement park: SatSun noon-8pm, 9pm. €28.50.
Children under 120cm: €10.30.
Tibidabo is one of the oldest
theme parks in the world, and
features classic rides, old
favourites and brand-new
attractions with spectacular
views over the city.
(Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2.
Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train: Port
Aventura. T. 902 20 22 20. For
prices and times contact tourist
Located one hour south of
Barcelona this theme park has
six zones (Mediterranean, Far
West, SesameAdventure,
Mexico, China and Polynesia)
cover 119 hectares, with 30
attractions, 100 processions
every day, 75 restaurants and
snack bars, and 27 craft and
gift shops.
Barcelona Zoo
(Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M:
Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/
Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 902 45 75
45. Until May 15: 10am-7pm.
From May 16: 10am-8pm.
€19.90. Children (ages 3-12):
Open for more than 100 years,
this is one of the city’s bestloved attractions. Nowadays it’s
home to more than 2,000
animals representing some 315
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 41
The Arts
Edited by
Eugènia Sendra
[email protected]
A night to remember
Ever wondered what happens in museums late at night? This month
On Saturday May 16, many
Barcelona museums will open
their doors for free late into the
night, until 1am in most cases.
La Nit dels Museus is the city’s way
of marking International Museum
Day on May 18, and lots of the
venues will be organising special
events, such as concerts and
activities related to their current
exhibitions, for the occasion. This
avoiding (most of) the usual
daytime crowds, and enjoy a
different kind of BCN nightlife.
While the big guns such as
CaixaForum and MACBA (pictured
above) are a natural pull, you could
also take this opportunity to visit
some of the more overlooked local
cultural centres. One such place is
Blueproject Foundation (Princesa,
57; www.blueprojectfoundation.
com). Located in the heart of
Barcelona, just a few steps from
the Museu Picasso, is this tworoom multidisciplinary art centre
that seeks to support young
artists. At the moment you can see
artist Lionel Esteve, ‘Un Nuage Sur
Mes Épaules’. This installation
was created specially for the
foundation’s Il Salotto exhibition
space, leveraging each of its
corners, nooks and crannies to
produce an autonomous universe
that leads the visitor into the
artist’s dreamy world. Also on show
is Luz Broto’s ‘274,59 m2’, a piece
that provides an insight into a
walled space of the titular size that
has been closed off for years in a
central part of Barcelona. And after
seeing the art, you might want to
check out their stylish vegetarian
café. Just saying.
Of course, perhaps you’re
looking for something a little bit
museum visit, in which case, allow
42 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
us to suggest the Col·lecció de
Carrosses fúnebres (Mare de Déu
de Port, 56;
exhibition of 22 funeral carriages is
the ideal place to freak yourself out
wondering what’s hiding in the dark
shadows of this curious museum,
which is located in the basement of
the company that manages the
city’s cemeteries. At possibly the
spookiest place to open late this
May 16, guided tours will be offered
hourly between 7.30pm and
10.30pm – do you dare?
Heading further out of the centre,
the Fabra i Coats Centre d’Art
Contemporani (Sant Adrià, 20; is
located in a former textiles factory
in the neighbourhood of Sant
Andreu, an area that retains the
spirit of the independent town it
once was. The centre itself seeks
to offer an insight into the
complexity of modern culture and
art. Go on May 16 and you’ll catch
the last day (or rather, evening) of
‘After Landscape. Ciutats
Copiades’, an exhibition that
includes the works of around a
dozen local and international
artists and explores the
standardisation of different urban
landscapes around the world.
Finally, we’re going right outside
Barcelona to Cornellà de Llobregat
and its water museum, Museu
Agbar de les Aigües (Carretera de
Sant Boi, 4-6, Cornellà de
Llobregat; museudelesaigues.
com), housed in a fabulous
modernista complex that was
inaugurated in 1909. The museum
walks you through the water supply
process with a focus on Barcelona
from its Roman guise to the
present – the centre was originally
inaugurated to extract water from
the Baix Llobregat aquifer and
transport it to neighbouring
Barcelona, and it continues to
serve this purpose today. We know
what you’re thinking, water supply,
that’s not the most interesting of
subjects for a Saturday night out.
But sometimes it’s worth
remembering that things we take
for granted – like water gushing out
of a tap – have their own backstory.
inspired Mateo Maté to create the
sculptural space ‘Àrea restringida
(Europa)’ (‘Restricted area
Fundació Joan Miró
Until June 7
A thousand-year-old stone and a
bullet from 1941. This is ‘The
History of Europe’, a
disconcerting work by Jimmie
Durham that shows up the
weaknesses of the continent’s
supposed identity and which
welcomes visitors to this
remarkable exhibition about
the disappointment that is the
current European project. Like an
updated Greek myth, in the new
here and now, the black-suited
men of the Troika have hijacked
(the idea of) Europe.
The Old Continent is in trouble –
a powerful economic, political and
social crisis is raging across the
region, leaving the system’s
infrastructure reeling. The dream
is over. ‘Blinda’ by Jorge García,
reflects on the walls that have
been scaled throughout Europe’s
history (from Classical Greece to
those in the North African
Spanish territories of Ceuta and
Melilla across which desperate
would-be immigrants scramble) –
on rolls of wound-up cable,
illuminated letters spell out ‘Post
Optimism’. Elsewhere in the
show, the fallacy regarding the
free movement of people has
A bleak outlook
Prophetia doesn’t offer hopeful
answers or magic potions for
confronting the current
uncertainty, but rather a direct,
no-holds-barred reading about
the weaknesses and failures of
the Union. For ‘Las diez y diez’,
Pelayo Varela has written various
extracts from the EU’s Charter of
Fundamental Rights on a wall. On
top, he’s constructed a clock
mechanism whose hands have
sharp edges underneath so that,
with the passing of time, they
scratch out various words.
Therefore the Charter, which, in its
day was democratically agreed
upon, gradually fades away.
The 20 pieces that make up
this exhibition at the Fundació
Miró, which is curated by Imma
Prieto, are imbued throughout
with the lack of excitement for a
Europe that is no longer owned
by the citizens and that, managed
from the offices of Brussels by
corrupt technocrats and
bureaucrats, is increasingly
nothing more than a questionable
–Aina Mercadé
FOOTNOTE The exhibition
includes works dating from
1989 to the present day.
Nearly 80 years after the start
of the Spanish Civil War,
Barcelona’s cultural agenda
still echoes with the effects of
Stage adaptation of Joan Sales’s 1956
Catalan novel about the experiences of
three people living through the war.
Teatre Nacional de Catalunya.
May 20-Jun 14.
Take a guided tour (in English) around
this section of Montjuïc cemetery,
dedicated in part to those killed during
air raids on the city. May 8, 4pm; May
24, 11am.
Barcelona lawyer Ventura Garcés
(1930-2008) are on public display.
And for the occasion, just eight
pieces have been selected from
more than 500. What’s the point,
you might think, it’ll take me longer
to get there than to look at the art.
But personally speaking, I love
spending no more than half an hour
surrounded by a few really good
artworks and giving them all my
attention. Curator Daniel Giralt/KTCENGJCUOCFGCOCIPKƁEGPV
SUSY GÓMEZ, S/T 113, 2001
Small is beautiful
minimal assemblage. A Joan Ponç
work proves we don’t value him
nearly enough, while a 1988 Tàpies
is elegant and generously sized. A
more-than-monumental Guinovart
could cause you to burst into song
in front of it. Julian Schnabel,
Antoni Lleura (two works), Jaume
Plensa and Miguel Ángel Campano
complete the roll call. –Ricard Mas
Col·lecció Ventura Garcés
Can Framis. Roc Boronat, 116.
In the MNAC’s permanent collection,
discover how the Spanish Republic
employed artists and their various
techniques in the propaganda war
against Franco.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 43
The Arts
Friday 1
Spanish guitar masters
Concert in emblematic church
performed by Barcelona Guitar Trío.
Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del
Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23.
Palacio del Flamenco
A full cast of guitarists, singers
and dancers, and the rhythms of
the cajón, heels and palms, take
you on a journey into the world of
(Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5,
FGC). Daily 6.25pm, 8.15pm &
10.30pm. Options: show only; show
+ one drink; show + different menu
options (including tapas. €45-€160.
45th Anniversary Tablao
celebrates almost half a century.
(Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu
(L3). Daily 8.15pm, 10pm. €42.50.
Grand Flamenco Gala
Passionate performance that
presents the key styles of the
classic Spanish music genre.
Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115).
M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). 7pm.
Live Flamenco – Tacones
Cantaors Miguel de la Tolea and
Duende, with dancers Costi El Chato
and Yolanda Cortes Santiago.
Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M:
Liceu (L3). 8.30pm, 9.30pm, 10.30
pm. €10 (on the door). €8 (web).
Charles McPherson & Bruce
Barth Trio
Tenor saxophonist McPherson is a
living legend of jazz: he performs
with pianist Bruce Barth’s trio.
Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu
(L3). 8pm, 10pm. €15 (on the door).
€12 (web).
Saturday 2
Tablao Flamenco Nervión
City centre restaurant hosts
(Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I (L4). Thu,
Fri, Sat 8pm-10pm. Show + drink
€16.90; show + supper €27.90.
Live Flamenco – Tacones
See Fri 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça
Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3).
Maestros of Spanish Guitar
Performance of traditional music
from Barcelona 4 Guitars.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 6pm. €30-€35.
Teatime classical music
Jordán Tejedor, violin, and Laia
Martín, piano, perform music by
Messiaen, Poulenc and Granados,
among others.
MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M:
Jaume I (L4). 6pm.
Charles McPherson & Bruce
Barth Trio
See Fri 1. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17).
M: Liceu (L3).
Sunday 3
Spanish guitar masters
See Fri 1. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).
FREE Shhh – we’re making music
Instruments from the museum in
expert hands: today Alfonso
Aldeanueva plays Joan Manén’s
Etienne de Marie violin.
Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150).
M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) &
Marina (L1). 5.30pm.
I Due Foscari
Concert version of Verdi’s sixth
opera, based on Byron’s play
about a dying Doge of Venice. With
the Liceu Symphony under
Massimo Zanetti and Plácido
Domingo as Francesco.
Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla,
51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 5pm. €9€199
Grand Flamenco Gala
featuring singer Fefa Gómez.
Palau de la Música Catalana, (Palau
de la Música 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1- L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49.
Blues – Jazz
under Miquel Ortega performs
Vives’ Bohemios and other works.
Palau de la Música Catalana
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm.
€25, €30.
Tuesday 5
Spanish guitar masters
See Mon 4. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).
Catalan artists
Soprano Elena Copons sings
works by Toldrà, Mompou,
Granados and others.
Palau de la Música Catalana
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1, L4).
8.30pm. €12.
Mataró Rumba All Stars
Al fresco jazz as part of the Vermut
Jazz season. L’Auditori (Lepant,
150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental
(L2) & Marina (L1). 12.45pm.
Vivaldi obsession
Recorder virtuoso Dorothea
Oberlinger leads the Zeffro wind
ensemble in a Vivaldi-fest.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M:
Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) &
Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €17.
A Jimmy McGriff Tribute
Blackcelona Hammond Groove
Experience pays homage to the
master of the Hammond B3 organ.
Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu
(L3). 8pm, 10pm. €12 (on the door).
€10 (web).
‘Pictofonies’ – music and
Music and art combine.
Reial Acadèmia Catalana de les
Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1).
M: Barceloneta (L4). 8pm.
€5, €12.
Monday 4
Spanish guitar masters
Luis Robisco in concert.
Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi,
7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23.
Bach in Barcelona
Every Monday and Wednesday
lunchtime, cellist Jurgen van Win
performs Bach’s Suites in a 11thcentury Benedictine monastery.
Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp
(Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel
(L2,L3). Mon & Wed 1pm. €16.
[email protected] T.
679 305 718.
Bohemios by Amadeu Vives
The Vallès Symphony Orchestra
44 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
The most authentic
contemporary flamenco at
Tablao Cordobés
most emblematic tablaos.
(La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3)
& Liceu (L3). Daily 6.30pm, 8.15pm,
10pm and 11.30pm. €44-€78.50.
Johnny Big Stone & The Blues
Workers feat. Paul Orta
Live blues, jazz, boogie-woogie and
Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda
Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3). 9pm (double session). Cover
charge €8.
The Arts
Wednesday 6
Shostakovich: concerto for
trumpet and piano
Martha Argerich and the Orquestra
da Camera perform Shostakovich’s
Concerto No. 1 and Beethoven’s
4th Symphony. Palau de la Música
Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1,L4).8.30pm.€21-€94.
Bach in Barcelona
See Mon 4. Monestir de Sant Pau
del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M:
Paral·lel (L2,L3).
Spanish guitar masters
Russian guitarist Ekaterina Záytseva,
based in Barcelona, is considered
one of the best of her generation.
Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi,
7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23.
Toni Solà Trio
Local jazzman takes the stage.
Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda
Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3). 9pm (double session). Cover
charge €8.
Thursday 7
Alisa Weilerstein
Cellist Weilerstein performs works
by Britten, Golijov, Bach and Kodály.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20, €30.
Spanish guitar masters
See Wed 6. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).
Flamenco – Jazz
Flamenco jazz for cocktail hour.
Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda
Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3). 9pm (double session). Cover
charge €8.
Grand Flamenco Gala
See Fri 1. Teatre Poliorama (La
Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;
Friday 8
Maestros of Spanish Guitar
Barcelona-born guitarist Manuel
González has a well-established
international career.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 6pm. €30-€35.
Voices inside the Pedrera
Discover the interior of La Pedrera
accompanied by a capella vocal
group Amacord.
La Pedrera auditorium (Pg. de
Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5).
9pm. €22.
Saturday 9
Maestros of Spanish Guitar
Manolo Gonzalez plays. Santa
Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7).
M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23.
Tchaikovsky’s fourth
Clarinettist Kari Krikku performs
Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece with
the OBC under Pablo González.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries
(L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina
(L1). May 9 7pm; May 10 1pm.
Teatime classical music
‘Lyrical recital’with soprano
Marina Serra and pianist Marina
MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M:
Jaume I (L4). 6pm
Palacio del Flamenco show
See Fri 1. (Balmes, 139). M:
Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC).
Flamenco gala
Featuring special appearance of
guitarist Pau Vallet.
Palau de la Música (Palau de la
Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,
L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49.
The most authentic
contemporary flamenco at
Tablao Cordobés
See Tue 5. (La Rambla, 35). M:
Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3).
Musical pairing
Schubert with Empordà
Tasting of Catalan wines and
Schubert’s famous Trout Quintet.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries
(L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina
(L1). 1pm. €25.
Sunday 10
Catalan legends
The BCN Municipal Band plays
works that bring to life Catalan
folk tales.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries
(L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina
(L1). 12.45pm.
My favourite things
The Orfeó Catalan’s Children’s
Choir performs popular songs
from kids’ cinema.
Palau de la Música Catalana,
(Palau de la Música 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1- L4). 9.30pm.
€15, €20.
A talented traditionalist with a flair for
innovation, the US trumpeter has played
with greats like Wynton Marsalis and
Nancy Wilson. Jamboree, Fri 8. 8pm,
10pm. €20, €25.
Scandi-pop tales of nostalgia,
heartbreak and friendship from the
Swedish singer-songwriter here for the
Viking Music cycle. L’Auditori, Fri 15.
9pm. €20.
Husky-voiced purveyor of bittersweet but
beautiful alt-country Americana, Hinson
is celebrating the 10th anniversary of his
debut album. Bikini, Sun 17. 8pm. €22.
The Manchester-based indie electronic
duo recorded their latest disco/electropop album Super Critical in Ibiza.
Razzmatazz, Fri 22. 1am. €13, €17.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 45
The Arts
Diana Palau & Joel Moreno
Al fresco jazz as part of the Vermut
Jazz season.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries
(L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina
(L1). 12.45pm.
Flamenco gala
Featuring dancer Eli Ayala.
Palau de la Música (Palau de la
Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,
L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49.
Monday 11
Bach in Barcelona
See Mon 4. Monestir de Sant Pau
del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M:
Paral·lel (L2,L3).
Spanish guitar masters
See Wed 6. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).
Scott Alan: Barcelona & Friends
US composer Alan debuts in Spain
with some top local musical
theatre talents.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries
(L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina
(L1). 9pm. €20.
Fran Suarez Trio
Live jazz in central cocktail bar.
Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda
Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3). 9pm (double session). Cover
charge €8.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35.
Tuesday 12
Thursday 14
The story that takes us to
today’s Gubaidulina
Flute and piano concert.
Reial Acadèmia Catalana de les
Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1).
M: Barceloneta (L4). 8pm.
€5, €12. For more info visit:
Spanish guitar masters
See Wed 13. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).
Wednesday 13
Spanish guitar masters
Award-winning guitarist, and
Barcelona native, Xavier Coll
performs in this beautiful setting.
Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del
Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23.
Murray Perahia, Palau 100
The great American pianist returns
to perform music by Bach, Haydyn,
Beethoven, Franck and Chopin.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 8.30pm. €12-€80.
Christina Pluhar’s Arpeggiata
A journey around the musical
traditions of the Med, from Greece
and Turkey to Portugal.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries
(L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina
(L1). 8.30pm. €10-€48.
45th Anniversary Tablao
See Fri 1. (Rambla, 35). M:
Drassanes/Liceu (L3).
Grand Flamenco Gala
See Fri 1. Teatre Poliorama (La
Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;
Live Flamenco
Enjoy Spanish music and dance.
Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17).
M: Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm,
9.30pm, 10.30 pm. €10 (on the
door). €8 (web).
Geni Barry Trio
Jazz with cocktail accompaniment.
Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda
Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3). 9pm (double session). Cover
charge €8.
Eduard Iniesta
Catalan specialist in fretted
instruments, from lutes to
bouzoukis, accompanied by National
Classical Orchestra of Andorra.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 8pm. €13.
A coffee with...
Baroque concert cycle, celebrating
the great academies and musical
coffee houses of the period: May’s
concert features the music of Jean
Baptiste Lully.
Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150).
M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2)
and Marina (L1). Noon.
Family concert
A bridge of songs
Children’s choirs from
across Catalonia in a
festive concert of songs
traditonal and modern.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150).
M: Glòries (L1),
Monumental (L2) & Marina
(L1). 12.30pm. €10.
Book your
restaurants at
Anton Jarl Quartet
Jazz with cocktail
Milano Cocktail Bar
(Ronda Universitat, 35). M:
Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double
session). Cover charge €8.
Friday 15
Spanish guitar masters
Pedro J. González is a Barcelonabased guitarist known for his fusion
Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del
Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23.
Montserrat choir
The famous boys’ choir performs
music by Vivancos, Pärt, Poulenc,
Elgar and others. Palau de la
Música Catalana (Palau de la
Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,
L4). 8.30pm. €13.
Lieder Càmera choir
21st-century sacred music
including new work Sanctus
Missae by Josep Vila i Casañas.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries
(L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina
(L1). 7.30pm. €12.
Rock – Funk – Blues
Julian Kanevsky
Argentinian guitarist and soughtafter session musician peforms
with his power trio.
Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel (L2,
L3). 9pm. €15.
Pop – Rock – Rumba
Grand Flamenco Gala
See Fri 1. Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla
115) . M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC).
Hugely popular Spanish singer hits
town. Palau Sant Jordi (Passeig
Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya (L1, L3,
FGC). 9.30pm. €24-€120.
Saturday 16
Maestros of Spanish Guitar
Performance of traditional music
from Barcelona 4 Guitars.
46 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
Roberto Fonesca, piano
Solo concert by one of the
most outstanding pianists of
the new generation of Cuban
The Arts
musicians as he tours Europe.
Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu
(L3). 8pm, 10pm. €20 (on the door).
€15 (web).
45th Anniversary Tablao
See Fri 1. (Rambla, 35). M:
Drassanes/Liceu (L3).
Sunday 17
Musical residences
Chamber concert with cellist
Oscar Alabau and pianist Albert
Guinovart. La Pedrera auditorium
(Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal
(L3, L5). 6pm. €12.
25th anniversary of Palau
Chamber Choir
The Choir performs
Monteverdi’s Madrigali i Scherzi
Palau de la Música Catalana
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm.
Walk Jazz
Free open-air music.
Exterior space at L’Auditori
(Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1),
Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1).
Lluís Coloma Trio
Another local jazzman plays.
Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda
Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3). 8.30pm (double session).
Cover charge €8.
Monday 18
Bach in Barcelona
See Mon 4. Monestir de Sant Pau
del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M:
Paral·lel (L2,L3).
Matosinhos String
Portuguese group perform
Mozart, Ravel and Vianna da
Motta.Palau de la Música
Catalana (Palau de la Música,
4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4).
8.30pm. €13.
Maestros of Spanish
See Sat 9. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7).
M: Liceu (L3).
Live Flamenco
Another Spanish cultural
Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17).
M: Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm,
9.30pm, 10.30 pm. €10 (on the
door). €8 (web).
Tuesday 19
One of the Six Parisian Quartets
Chamber concert by Clàssic BCN.
Reial Acadèmia Catalana de les
Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). M:
Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €5, €12.
Jan Lisiecki , piano
Works by Bach, Paderewski,
Mendelssohn and Chopin.
Palau de la Música Catalana
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm.
€15, €25.
3x3 = Sitkovetsky piano trio
One of Europe’s most dynamic
groups perform Brahms,
Mendelssohn and Schubert.
Auditori (Lepant, 150). M:
Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2)
and Marina (L1). 8.30pm.
Wednesday 20
Maestros of Spanish
See Sat 9. Santa Maria del Pi
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 47
The Arts
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7).
M: Liceu (L3).
Grand Flamenco gala
Featuring dancer Nacho Blanco.
Palau de la Música (Palau de la
Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,
L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49.
Pat Martino
Jazz guitar great whose
career spans over 50
years, Martino performs
with Pat Bianchi and
Carmen Intorre Jr.
Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17).
M: Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm.
€30 (on the door). €25
solo album Allau d’estrelles
Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M:
Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €12 (on
the door). €10 (web).
J.T. Lauritsen
Norwegian bluesman plays.
Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda
Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya
(L1, L3). 8.30pm (double
session). Cover charge
Book your
restaurants at
Obeses 3D & BCN
Municipal band
Pop phenomenon Obeses
present new album Monstres i
Auditori (Lepant, 150). M:
Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2)
and Marina (L1). 9pm. €15.
Così Fan Tutte, W.A.
Popular Italian-language opera
buffa whose theme can be
Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla,
51-59). M: Liceu (L3). May 20, 21,
22, 24, 26, 27, 28 and 30. 8pm.
Sun 5pm. €9-€199.
Thursday 21
Spanish guitar masters
See Wed 13. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu
Pianist Ivo Pogorelich plays Liszt,
Schumann, Stravisky and
Palau de la Música Catalana
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8.30pm.
Xavier Baró
scene, Baró presents his new
Friday 22
Spanish guitar masters
See Sat 9. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7).
M: Liceu (L3).
Voices inside the Pedrera
See Fri 8. La Pedrera (Pg. de
Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5).
El amor brujo 1915-2015
The Orquestra Camera Musicae
under Tomàs Grau, in a
programme that looks at the
of Manuel de Falla.
Palau de la Música Catalana
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8.30pm.
Concert in Jeans 3.0
Hispanian Sympony Orchestra
perform music by Beethoven.
Palau de la Música Catalana
(Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:
Urquinaona (L1,L4). 9pm. €5€35.
Mozart’s 40th symphony
The Barcelona Symphony and
Catalan National Orchestra
performs Stravinsky’s ballet
Pulcinella and Mozart’s 40th.
Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries
(L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina
(L1). May 23 7pm; May 24 11am.
Pop – Songwriter
Mikel Erentxun
Spanish rock musician Erentxum
presents new disc Corazones.
Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel
(L2, L3). 9pm. €20, €25.
Saturday 23
Teatime classical music
‘From Blues to folk dance.’ with the
Aldamena Duo (sax and piano).
MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume
I (L4). 6pm.
Vivaldi’s Four Seasons
The Leon Janacek Chamber
Orchestra perform Vivaldi’s Four
Seasons, as well as Piazzolla’s.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1,L4). 9pm. €18-€48.
The musicians of Bremen
Classic folk tale brought to life on
stage for young audiences.
Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla,
51-59). M: Liceu (L3). May 23-24.
11am. €13.
45th Anniversary Tablao
See Fri 1. (Rambla, 35). M:
Drassanes/Liceu (L3).
Sunday 24
Beethoven’s Ninth
The Vallès Symphony Orchestra,
the Orfeó Manresa and the Lieder
Camera choir perform Beethoven’s
48 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
ninth symphony.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1,L4). 6pm. €18-€68.
Kids – Sounds from
here and there
Pere Martínez and Rosalía Vila,
voices, lead a small family concert.
Palau de la Música (Palau de la
Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,
L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49.
Palacio del Flamenco
See Fri 1. (Balmes, 139). M:
Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC).
Elisabet Raspall & Dani
Free al fresco jazz as part of the
Vermut Jazz 2015.
Exterior space at L’Auditori (Lepant,
150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental
(L2) and Marina (L1).
Monday 25
Spanish guitar masters
See Fri 15. Santa Maria del Pi
Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).
45th Anniversary Tablao
See Fri 1. (La Rambla, 35). M:
Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3).
Tuesday 26
Piano trios
Pianist Ayako Fujiki leads concert.
Reial Acadèmia Catalana de Belles
Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). M:
Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €5, €12.
The Arts
Cameron Carpenter
Young US organist takes the stage.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20.
presents new album Vertebrates.
Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu
(L3). 8pm, 10pm. €12 (on the
door). €10 (web). www.masimas.
Wednesday 27
Friday 29
Grand Flamenco Gala
See Fri 1. Teatre Poliorama (La
Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3; FGC).
Spanish guitar
See Wed 6.
Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi,
7). M: Liceu (L3).
Live Flamenco
Enjoy Spanish music and dance.
Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M:
Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 9.30pm,
10.30 pm. €10 (on the door). €8
Don Giovanni by Mozart
Concert version of classic work.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 7.30pm. €25-€175.
Bach in Barcelona
See Mon 4. Monestir de Sant Pau
del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M:
Paral·lel (L2,L3).
Thursday 28
Enrique Bagaría
Talented young Barcelona pianist
performs Haydyn, Brahms and
Schumann. Auditori (Lepant, 150).
M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2)
and Marina (L1). May 23 7pm; May
24 11am. €10-€56.
Flamenco – Jazz
See Thu 7. Milano Cocktail Bar
(Ronda Universitat, 35). M:
Catalunya (L1, L3).
David Mengual & Free Spirits
The boldest, most contemporarysounding big band in Spain
Mahler’s last
Mahler’s symphony from the
Barcelona Symphony and Catalan
National Orchestra. L’Auditori
(Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1),
Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1).
May 29 8.30pm: May 30 7pm; May
31 11am. €10-€56.
Ballads – Boleros
classical music
‘Quintoneando,’ with the De Vellut
duo (violin and accordion).
MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume
I (L4). 6pm.
Dvorak’s New
The Vallès Symphony Orchestra
performs music by Vivancos,
Brahms and Dvorak.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1,L4). 7pm.
Sunday 31
Cantatas for the Holy
The Madrigal Choir with soprano
María Hinojosa, perfom Bach
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 7.30pm. €20.
FREE Shhh – we’re
making music
See Sun 3.
Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150).
M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2)
and Marina (L1).
Vivaldi’s Four Seasons
Les Orpheistes Symphony
Orchestra with violonist Mario
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1,L4). 6pm. €22-€49.
Dani del Toro & Julian
Spanish and British musicians
join forces.
Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda
Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3). 9pm (double session). Cover
charge €8.
Tamara – 15th
One of Spain’s best-known
voices celebrates 15 years
on stage.
Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel
(L2, L3). 9pm.
€20, €25.
Saturday 30
Modern music
Afters: Izah
Music inspired by the preceding
concert, with ‘new princess
of soul’ Izah.
L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries
(L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina
(L1). 9.30pm. €15.
Spanish guitar
Barcelona Guitar Trio perform.
Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau
de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). 9pm.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 49
The Arts
Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona
(Pl. Pons & Clerch, 2). M: Arc de
Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256
34 20. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Closed
Sun and public holidays.
Antoni Capella, society
photographer Until Oct 3. Catalan
snapper whose subjects included
the Liceu and Ràdio Barcelona.
Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de
(Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) &
Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 256 22
55. Mon-Fri 9am-8.45pm; Sat 9am1pm. Closed Sun & public holidays.
FREE Apel·les Mestres. A
complete artist and multi-faceted
man May 7-Oct 31. Examining the
rich creative output of this Catalan
artist (1854-1936) who was a
painter, poet, playwright and
musician, among his other skills.
Blue Project Foundation
(Princesa, 57). M: Arc de Triomf (L1)
& Jaume I (L4). T. 93 182 43 71. TueSun, 10am-8pm. Mon, closed. €3.
Un nuage sur mes épaules Until
Jun 7. First solo exhibition in BCN
for French artist Lionel Esteve.
Luz Broto Until May 24. Young
Catalan artist displays her work.
(Av. Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 6-8).
M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 476
86 00. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Adults
€4. Under 16s free.
Pixar: 25 years of animation
Until May 3. A behind-thecomputer look at the megasuccessful animation company.
Moche culture from ancient
Peru. Gold, myths and rituals Until
Jun 7. Artworks created almost
2,000 years ago by the Moche
people from northern Peru,
revealing how they saw the world.
Three narratives. Memory Until
Jun 21. Works from the “la Caixa”
contemporary art collection.
FREE I see what you can’t Until
May 24. The creative world of
people diagnosed with autism.
FREE Windows of the world Until
in Africa, Asia and South America.
Can Framis. Fundació Vila Casas
(Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries
(L1), Poblenou (L4) & Llacuna (L4).
T. 93 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am6pm; Sun 11am-2pm. Closed Mon,
public holidays and Easter
weekend. €5. Reduced: €2.
Permanent exhibition
Contemporary paintings shown in a
former cotton factory in Poblenou.
The Art of Collecting Until Jul 19.
Eight carefully chosen pieces from
the collection of Ventura Garcés.
See page 43.
The Chromatic Cosmogony of
Manolo Ballesteros Until Jul 19.
Recent paintings by local artist.
Castell de Montjuïc
(Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya
(L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. OctMar: Mon-Sun and public holidays
10am-6pm. €5. Reduced: €3.
Montjuïc, the construction of a
castle Permanent exhibition.
Doble Creu Sculpture by Carles
Berga. Permanent exhibition.
Montjuïc Stone Barcelona Until
Jun 15. Exploration of how the city
was built using this local material.
(Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun &
public holidays 11am-8pm. 5-6 Jan
11am-3pm. Closed Mon (except
public holidays). €6. Reduced entry
for pensioners and students on Wed
(except public holidays): €4. Under16s & unemployed: free.
Sebald Variations Until Jul 26.
Author W.G. Sebald is acclaimed
for his turn-of-millennium works.
(Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo
(FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun
and public holidays 10am-8pm.
Closed Mon (except public
holidays). €4 (permanent and
temporary exhibitions). Under 16s
free. First Sun of month free.
Permanent exhibition
Barcelona’s science museum that
covers more than 50,000m2.
Sputnik. The Soyuz 2 Odyssey
Until May 31. Delving into the
mystery of what happened to
cosmonaut Colonel Ivan
Istotxnikov, who disappeared from
his spacecraft in October 1968.
Year 2100 experiment No end
date. What might life be like in the
year 2100 and the 22nd century?
El Born Centre Cultural
(Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I
(L4) & Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256
68 51. Tue-Sun and public
holidays, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon
(except public holidays). €6.
Reduced: €4. Under-16s free. Sun
3pm-8pm free. First Sun every
month free, 10am-8pm.
El Born Centre Cultural Under the
cast-iron structure of one of the
city’s 19th-century markets lie
extensive remains from the
Barcelona 1700. From stones to
people. Permanent exhibition
18th-century Barcelona was
dynamic and forward-looking, but
marked by the wars that affected
the city from 1691 to 1714.
Until it is done! The siege of 1714
No end date. Examining the 14month siege of Barcelona that
ended with capitulation to Bourbon
troops on September 11, 1714.
The Spark of the Revolution Until
May 31. Commemorating the
375th anniversary of the Reaper’s
Revolt, a key moment in Catalan
history that sparked the 12-year
Reaper’s War (1640-1652) with
the Spanish regime of Philip IV.
Espai VolART-Fundació Vila
(Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona
(L1, L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri
5pm-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm,
5pm-8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm.
Closed Mon and public holidays.
€1. Reduced: 50¢.
Retrospective May 7-Jun 28
Time travel May 7-Jun 19
Fundació Antoni Tàpies
(Aragò, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia
(L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. TueSun 10am-7pm. Closed Mon. €7.
Students and pensioners, €5.60.
Maria Lassnig Until May 31. Work
by the Austrian artist, who passed
away last year.
50 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
Antoni Tàpies. Collection # 10
Until May 31. Another range of
works by the late Catalan artist.
Fundació Joan Miró
(Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M:
Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 443
94 70. Oct-Jun: Tue-Sat 10am7pm; Thu 10am-9.30pm; Sun &
public holidays 10am-2.30pm.
Closed Mon (except public
holidays). €11. Temporary
exhibition: €7. Espai 13: €2.50.
Permanent exhibition Most
important public collection of
works by the Catalan artist.
Prophetia Until May 4. Various
artists look at the development of
the European project.
In Cycling Mode: The Wilson
Exercises Until Jun 21.
Collaborative project between US
artist Anna Craycroft and
Spaniard Marc Vives.
Fundació Suñol
(Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal
(L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. Mon-Fri
11am-2pm & 4-8pm; Sat 4-8pm.
Closed Sun and public holidays. €4.
Reduced: €2.
Permanent exhibition Collection
of works belonging to Josep Suñol
that includes art by Warhol, Dalí,
Tàpies, Picasso, Miró and Man Ray.
Italia. I Sei Sensi Until Jan 9,
2016. Re-examination of late 20thcentury Italian works held in the
collection of the Suñol Foundation.
José Guerrero. The Presence of
Black (1950-1966) May 7-Sep 5.
Celebrating the 100th anniversary
of the birth of the Granada artist,
focusing on the period he spent in
America when he started exploring
themes of abstraction.
Hash Marihuana & Hemp
(Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). T.
93 319 75 39. Every day 10am10pm. €7.50. Under-13s free.
Permanent exhibition The past,
present and future of the cannabis
plant and its various uses.
Jardí Botànic
(Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: Espanya
(L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. Apr,
May, Sep: daily 10am-7pm. Closed
May 1. €3.50. Reduced: €1.70.
Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Plants from
Mediterranean climate zones all
over the world.
Salvadoriana. Barcelona’s cabinet
of curiosities Until Feb 2016.
Reconstruction of one of BCN’s
earliest natural history collections.
Bonsai Until Jun Mini tree display.
La Pedrera – Fundació Catalunya
(Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal
(L3, L4; FGC). T. 902 202 138. 9am8.30pm. €3.50. Reduced: €1.70.
Leopold Pomés. Flashback Until
Jul 12. Retrospective of work from
second half of 20th century by
multi-faceted creative.
La Virreina Centre de la Imatge
(La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93
316 10 00. Tue-Sun and public
holidays, 12pm-8pm.
Maillol and Greece
Sculptor Aristides Maillol (1861-1944) was born close to
Perpignan, but spoke Catalan and said he regarded
FREE Sophie Calle. Modus Vivendi Catalonia as his true homeland. In 1908, he visited
Until Jun 7. French photographer
known for her insight into concepts Greece on a trip that inspired his own artistic style.
Museu Frederic Marès (Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). T. 93 256 35 00.
of privacy and human vulnerability.
MACBA. Museu d’Art
(Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat
(L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93
412 08 10. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm;
Sat 10am-9pm; Sun, public holidays
10am-3pm. Closed Tues (except
public holidays). Whole museum
ticket: €10. Reduced: €8.
Collection 2014: The
Immaterial Legacy Until May 25.
Changes in art and society between
the late ’70s and early ’80s.
Car je est un autre. Pep
Dardanyà Until May 24.
Questioning the touching-up of
photos, used so often in
Osvaldo Lamborghini Until Jun 1.
Looking back on the life and work
of this Argentinian writer.
Past disquiet Until Jun 1. Reexamination of the international art
show held in 1978 in support of
Iman Issa Winner of last years
Hans Nefkens prize.
Bouchra Khalili Until Jun 28.
Casablanca-born artist who
explores themes of clandestine
existences and political minorities
through video, mixed media,
photos and prints.
Sergi Aguilar Until Nov 1.
Retrospective of work by
Barcelona sculptor from past 40
park, and visits are covered by
general conditions for admission.
Access with ticket only. More
MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art
(Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I
(L4). T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun,
10am-8pm. €7. Reduced: €5.
Permanent exhibition The Casa
de la Guarda, Park Güell and
modernista Barcelona.
21st-century art. Permanent
exhibition from the museum’s
collection with almost 300
paintings and 80 sculptures.
MUHBA Plaça del Rei
(Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93
256 21 22. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm;
Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €7.
Reduced: €5. Under-16s free.
Free admission Sun from 3pm.
MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents
de Barcelona
(Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93
332 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm,
4pm-7pm; Sat 11am-8pm; Sun,
public holidays 10am-2pm. Closed
Mon (except public holidays). €8.
Reduced: €6.
Permanent exhibition The
fascinating world of creativity and
MUHBA Park Güell
(Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). T.
93 256 21 22. Daily, 8.30am9.30pm. The Casa de la Guarda
museum in Park Güell is part of
the ‘monumental area’ of the
Permanent exhibition An
archaeological tour of the
Roman colony of Barcino, the
origins of the city we know
Haggadot Until Jul 5. 15thcentury Barcelona and
Catalan haggadots (illlustrated
Jewish texts), considered the
Barcelona in late antiquity
times No end date. Exhibition of
MUHBA Refugi 307
(Nou de la Rambla, 169). M:
Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 22.
Sun: guided visits by appointment
The Arts
only. 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm.
Closed public holidays. €3.40.
MUHBA Refugi 307 400 metres of
underground passageways bear
witness to the city’s suffering
during the Civil War.
MUHBA Santa Caterina
(Pl. de Joan Capri). T. 93 256 21 22.
Mon-Sat 10am-2pm. Closed Sun
and public holidays.
FREE Permanent exhibition.
Archaeological display among the
foundations of the Santa Caterina
MUHBA Turó de la Rovira
(Marià Labèrnia s/n). T. 93 256 21
22. Mon-Fri 5pm-8pm; Sat, Sun
Permanent exhibition Barcelona
to the limit.
Museu Blau
(Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc
del Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum
(L4). T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Sat 10am7pm. Sun & public holidays 10am8pm. Closed Mon (except public
holidays). €6. Reduced: €2.70.
Museum & Botanical Gardens €7.
Reduced €5.
Planet life Permanent exhibition
about the history of live and
evolution of our planet.
Poisoned. The most venemous
animals in nature Until Dec
Discover how natural poisons can
both kill and save.
Museu de Badalona
(Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1).
Badalona. M: Pep Ventura (L2). T. 93
384 17 50. Tue-Sat 10am-2pm,
5pm-8pm; Sun & public holidays
10am-2pm. €6.48. Reduced:
Permanent exhibition Visit the
underground remains of Baetulo, a
Roman City.
Intimates. History of underwear,
19th-21st century Until Jun 14
Checking out what we’ve been
wearing under our clothes for the
past few hundred years.
Museu de Montserrat
(Abadia de Montserrat. 08199
Montserrat). Monistrol de
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 51
The Arts
Montserrat. T. 93 877 77 45.
Mon-Sun 10am-5.30pm. €7.
Reduced: €4.
Permanent Exhibition Paintings by
El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet,
Degas, Pissarro, Dalí and Picasso.
The sacredness of JiménezBalaguer Until Jul 5. Retrospective
of work by Catalan artist that dates
from 1956 to 2014.
Temptations Until Jul 12. Exploring
the history of Catalonia’s sacred
spot through old postcards and the
experience of artist Lluís Hortalà,
who has spent many hours
climbing the Montserrat range.
MEB: Museu de l’Eròtica
(La Rambla, 96). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3). T. 93 318 98 65. Mon-Sun 10
am-12pm. Adults €9. Reduced: €8
Permanent exhibition The
history of eroticism.
Museu de la Moto de
(C/ de la Palla, 10). T. 933 186 584.
Until Jun 14: Tue-Sat 10.30am2.30pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun
10.30am-2.30pm. Closed Mon.
The history of the motorbike in
Catalonia 36 of the most
representative models.
Bultaco, a legendary motorbike
Until Nov. The musem pays homage
to one of the greatest Spanish
motorbike manufacturers.
Museu de la Música
(L’Auditori. Lepant, 150). M:
Glòries (L1) & Marina (L1). T. 93
256 36 50. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm;
Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €5.
Reduced: €3.50. Free admission
Sun from 3pm.
Permanent exhibition Take a
trip through the different eras of
musical history.
Phonos, 40 years of
electronic music in Barcleona
Until Sep 27. The Phonos
laboratory was created in 1974
and became a Spanish pioneer
in electro music, through
experimentation and
Voices of the Mediterranean.
Until Jul 26. Bringing together
examples of voices from countries
around the Med, including Italy,
Croatia, Greece, Egypt and Algeria.
Apr-Oct: Daily 10am-7.30pm (some
parts of tour are closed on match
day). €23. Children: €17. Under 6s
& FCB members, free.
Museu de la Xocolata
(Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de Sant
Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf (L1). T.93
268 78 78. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm;
Camp Nou Experience Discover
Sun 10am-3pm. €5.
100 years of the club’s history
Groups: €4.
and visit the stadium.
Book your
Museu del Mamut
restaurants at
(Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I
The story of
(L4). T. 93 268 85 20. Monbarcelona
chocolate, from its
Sun 10am-9pm. €7.50.
origins to its arrival
Reduced: €5. Children (6-15):
in Europe.
Museu de les Cultures del Món
(Montcada, 12-14). M: Jaume I (L4).
T. 93 256 23 00. Tue-Sat 10am7pm; Sun and public holidays
10am-8pm. Closed Mondays
(except public holidays). €5.
Reduced: €3.50.
Permanent exhibition Art,
books, and other objects gathered
on expeditions to Asia, Africa,
Oceania and the Americas.
Museu del Disseny
de Barcelona
de les Glòries Catalanes, 37-38). M:
Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 68 00. TueSun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. More
From the world to the museum.
Product design, cultural heritage
Permanent exhibition. Daily objects
considered from a museum
Dressing the body. Silhouettes
and fashion (1550-2014)
Permanent exhibition. How women
change their shape with clothes.
Extraordinary! Decorative and
applied arts collections (3rd-20th
century) Permanent exhibition.
Pieces of art from across the
centuries including ceramics,
textiles, furniture and clocks.
Graphic design: from trade to
profession Permanent exhibition.
Tracing the professionalisation of
graphic design.
Design for life Until May 17.
Looking at how design can provide
the answer to everyday problems.
Museu del Futbol Club
(Aristides Maillol, s/n. Gates 7 or 9).
M: Les Corts (L3). T. 902 18 99 00.
Permanent exhibition
See remains of woolly mammoths
and other Ice Age animals.
Museu del Modernisme
(Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia
(L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 96. MonSat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm.
€10. Reduced: €7.
Permanent exhibition
350 works by 42 of the most
important artists of the Catalan
modernisme movement.
Museu Egipci de Barcelona
(València, 284). M: Passeig de
Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01
88. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm;
Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm.
€11. Reduced: €8.
Permanent exhibition Almost a
thousand exhibits provide a
glimpse into life in Ancient Egypt.
Tutankhamun. Story of a
discovery No end date.
Remembering the archeological
expedition of 1922 that uncovered
the pharaoh’s tomb.
Museu Marítim de Barcelona
(Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M:
Drassanes (L3). T. 93 342 99 20.
Daily 10am-8pm. €5. Reduced: €4.
Tenas and the sea Until Jun 14.
Artworks by Catalan artist Josep
Tenas (1943-1996) whose
paintings often featured the sea
or themes related to it.
Museu Nacional d’Art de
(Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1,
L3, FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat
10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays
10am-3pm. Closed Mon (except
public holidays). €12. Admission to
roof terrace €2. Free entry Sat
afternoon, from 3pm. Temporary
shows: ask at museum.
Permanent exhibition World’s
most important collection of
Romanesque art and Catalan
Gabriel Casas Until Aug 30. Works
from the ’30s by photographer
Casas, an early proponent of the
New Vision movement.
Metal stories. Art and power in
European medals Until Oct 18.
Medal-making across the continent
between the 1600s and 1800s.
Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport
Joan Antoni Samaranch
(Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M:
Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 292
53 79. Oct-Mar: Tue-Sat 10am6pm; Sun, public holidays 10am2.30pm. Closed Mon (except public
holidays). €5.10. Students: €3.20.
Under-7s and over-65s: free.
Museu Frederic Màres
(Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T.
93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm;
Sun, public holidays 11am-8pm.
Closed Mon (except public
holidays). €4.20. Reduced: €2.40.
Permanent exhibition Explore
in-depth the worlds of sport and
the Olympic Games.
‘Summits of my life’ by Kilian
Jornet Until Jul 27. Catalan
mountain skier and runner who
has won numerous competitions
in the disciplines as well as the
Mont Blanc Ultra-trail three times.
Permanent exhibition Located in
space that once housed part of
the Palau Reial Major, its
collection includes a range of
valuable artworks and objects.
Maillol and Greece Until Jan 31.
How a trip to Greece inspired
sculptor Aristides Maillol. See
page 51.
Museu Picasso
(Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4).
T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun 9am-7pm;
Thu 9am-9.30pm. Closed Mon
(except public holidays). €14
(combined ticket for museum +
temporary exhibition). Collection
only: €11. Temporary exhibition
only: €6.50.
52 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
The Arts
Permanent exhibition More than
3,800 works from different periods
in Picasso’s life.
Picasso/Dalí, Dalí/Picasso View
works by the two great 20thcentury artists in parallel.
Palau Robert
(Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal
(L3, L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat
10am-7pm; Sun, public holidays
FREE 100 years of the
professional librarian Until May 10.
Study of the work of these
indispensable bibliophiles.
FREE Catalunya Moto Until Oct 25.
Show that looks at the history of
motorcycles in Catalonia, covering
themes of industry, society,
competition and technology.
FREE RCR Architects. Shared
creativity Until Sep 13. Exploring 25
years of the Olot architectural studio
and the innovative, shared creativity
of founders Rafael Aranda, Carme
Pigem and Ramon Vilalta.
Pis-museu Casa Bloc
(Pg. Torras i Bages, 91). M: Torras i
Bages (L1). Guided tours in Catalan,
Spanish and English: reservations
must be made in advance before
Thu. Guided tours: Sat 11am &
12.30pm. Information line: Tue-Fri
10am-1pm; Thu 3pm-5.30pm.
Individual visits: €3. Info: tel. 93 256
68 01 or
Casa Bloc A symbol of rational
social housing in Barcelona.
Reial Monestir de Santa Maria
de Pedralbes
(Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina
Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34. TueFri, 10am-5pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun,
10am-8pm. Public holidays, 10am2pm. Closed Mon (except public
holidays). €4.40. Reduced: €3.10.
Permanent exhibition Murals
under the magnifying glass –
paintings from the Sant Miquel
Permanent exhibition Plants,
remedies and apothecaries –
the monastery’s medieval
Petras albas. The Pedralbes
Monastery and the Montcada
family Looking at the reasons
why Catalan queen Elisenda de
Montcada decided to create a
monastery in Pedralbes.
El Molino
(Vilà i Vilà, 99). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3).
Tel. 93 396 71 91. www.
Thur-Sat, 5-9pm. Tickets available
via Ticketea, Atrapalo, Telentrada,
El Molino Show-Time Thu
9.30pm. Fri 6.30pm, 9.30pm. Sat
6.30pm, 9.30pm. €33. Special
offer: 2 tickets + bottle of cava
€50. Cabaret and burlesque show
in Barcelona’s historical nightspot.
Rumba Experience Wed, Thu
6.30pm. €22.50. Rumba as you’ve
never seen it before, where
audience participation is required.
Teatre Gaudí Barcelona
(Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). M:
Sagrada Família (L2, L5) & Sant
Pau/Dos de Maig (L5) T. 93 603
51 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona.
before performances start.
Mares i Filles Until Jun 14. WedSat 10pm. Sun 8pm. €20. Catalan
musical looking at a motherdaughter relationship and their
respective needs to lead their own
lives separate from the other.
El Viatge d’Orfeu Wed-Sat 8pm.
Sun 6pm. Take a trip with this
production that mixes theatre,
dance and music. In Catalan.
Teatre Lliure: Gràcia
(Montseny, 47). M: Fontana (L3) &
Joanic (L4). T. 93 238 76 25. www.
open Mon-Fri 5-8pm. Weekends
and public holidays from 5pm
El curiós incident del gos a
mitjanit Until May 10. Wed-Sun
8.30pm; Sun 6pm. €23.20-€26.
Stage play based on Mark
Haddon’s bestseller The Curious
Incident of the Dog in the NightTime. In Catalan.
Teatre Lliure: Montjuïc
(Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46). M:
Espanya (L1, L3, FGC) & Poble Sec
(L3). T. 93 289 27 70. www.
Weekdays 9am-8pm (Plaça Margarida
Xurgú) and 3 hours before shows start
(Sala Fabià Puigserver).
Frank V (Operata d’una banca
privada) Until May 17. Wed-Fri
8.30pm; Sat 9pm; Sun 6pm. €15€29. Catalan-language satirical
musical about the world of
banking. Performance on May 9
has English surtitles.
Cleòpatra May 6-24. Wed-Fri 9pm;
Sat 6pm, 9.30pm; Sun 6.30pm.
Part of a series of three plays
exploring the extremes people will
go to in the name of money. Sex,
drugs, corruption – they’re all here.
In Catalan and Spanish.
Un enemic del poble May 28-30.
Thu, Fri 8.30pm; Sat 9pm; Sun 6pm.
New version of Ibsen’s An Enemy of
the People. Saturday night show
has surtitles in Spanish and
English. In Catalan.
Teatre Nacional de Catalunya
(Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries (L1). T.
93 306 57 00. Ticket
3-8.30pm; Sun 3-5pm.
L’Hort de les Oliveres May 13-26.
Thu-Sat 8pm; Sun 6pm. €28.
Reduced €14. Family drama
inspired by Shakespeare, Chekov
and the Bible. In Catalan.
Incerta glòria May 20-Jun 14.
Wed-Sat 8pm; Sun 6pm. Play
based on eponymous novel about
Spanish Civil War by Joan Sales,
which has recently been
translated into English as
Uncertain Glory. In Catalan.
La nostra mort de cada dia May
28-31. Wed-Sat 8pm; Sun 6pm.
Black comedy that sees Death
visit a middle-class family in an
attempt to spirit away the
youngest daughter, but the other
members do all they can to stop
the scheme. In Catalan.
Teatre Poliorama
(La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1,
L3).T. 93 317 75 99. www.
Tue-Fri from 5pm. Sat & Sun from 4pm.
El Cavernícola May 6-31. Wed-Fri
9pm; Sat 8pm & 10pm. Sun 7pm.
€15-€20. Spanish version of
Defending the Caveman, the
longest-running solo show in
Broadway, featuring Spanish actorsinger Nancho Novo.
Teatre Tívoli
(Casp, 8). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Pg.
de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 902 888
Ticketmaster, Atrapalo, Grup Balanyà
(on days with a programmed
performance, from 5pm).
Sister Act, the Divine musical
Wed, Thu 8pm; Fri, Sat 5.30pm &
9.30pm; Sun 6pm. Until May 10.
€25-€65. Musical adapted from
singer who takes refuge from the
Mob in a convent. In Spanish.
Teatre Victòria
(Av. Paral·lel, 65-67). M: Paral·lel (L2,
L3). T. 93 329 91 89. www.
Fri, from 5pm. Sat, Sun, from 4pm
until performance starts.
Mar i Cel Thu 8.30pm; Fri 9.30pm;
Sat 5.30pm & 9.30pm; Sun 6pm.
€29-€46. Dagoll Dagomm’s popular
musical, a story of corsairs and
captives. In Catalan.
Mercat de les Flors
(Lleida, 59). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93
329 91 89.
Ticket offices open one hour before
performances start.
Evolucions/Dansa urbana.
Catalan and international hip hop
Until May 3. Celebration of different
urban dance acts.
The show must go on May 8-10. Fri,
Sat 8.30pm. Sun 6pm. €12. Iconic
work by Jérôme Bel performed by
local dancers.
As if nothing... May 16, 8.30pm.
€12. Joint project from Heine Avdal
and Yukiko Shinozaki that explores
the use and purpose of empty
Ciutat Flamenco Festival 2015
May 21-24. A search for the
talent with both improvised and
choreographed sets of
music and dance.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 53
Food & Drink
Edited by
Ricard Martín
[email protected]
Go Bananas!
A little bit frivolous, a little bit sophisticated, but in no danger of taking itself seriously.
That’s Bananas, the latest addition to the Born’s nightlife scene. By Laura Conde
prawns, egg and vegetable) rub
shoulders with croquetas,
tartares, steaks of aged beef,
salads and tatakis. Like the
interior design, the menu
shamelessly and fearlessly
mixes styles and ideas. The
desserts follow the same
philosophy, from coconut milk
and mango rice pudding to
cheesecake, and the extensive
wine list, with more than 70
vintages to choose from, places
particular emphasis on Catalan
After dinner – which can end
at the hour of your choosing
because the kitchen opens
Once upon a time there was a
restaurant called Café Kafka,
and it was a sort of intellectualbohemian refuge right smack in
the middle of the Born
neighbourhood. One fine day,
little Kafka had a brother and,
as tends to happen in families,
the new arrival turned out to be
the opposite of his older sibling
in every way. The classic pattern
of responsible elder brother /
naughty little brother is
repeated by these two with
sober, cosmopolitan Kafka and
the irreverent and delightful
Bananas. The two brothers,
however, get along just fine,
thank you very much and, blood
being thicker than water, they’re
not only related, but they also
share a kitchen.
In fact, and here I’m going to
paraphrase Jodorowsky –
regardless of how bad that
might sound so soon after
mentioning Kafka – two
This is one
of the few BCN
examples of
kitsch done in
good taste
brothers’ personalities can be
shaped by their names. On the
one hand, Kafka – need we say
more? And on the other,
Bananas, a crazy whirl of high
spirits, a labyrinthine maze of
corridors and one of the few
examples to be found in
Barcelona of a kitsch aesthetic
that’s been executed with good
taste, if such a thing is even
At Bananas the menu is a selfproclaimed Mediterranean
fusion affair, in which
Indonesian / Malaysian
specialities like mee goreng
(noodles served with chicken,
54 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
non-stop – comes music and
cocktails. Any sense there may
have been of sophistication
here flies out the window and
the space is transformed into
something akin to the Marx
Brothers’ ship cabin in A Night
at the Opera, while a series of
multicoloured mojitos (they
serve mint, strawberry and
mango flavours) orbit the room,
mingling with equally colourful
daiquiris. All this to the pulsing
rhythms of selected Latin
tunes, and a dance floor where
you can get on down in the
absolute confidence that you
won’t have to listen to the wails
of Shakira.
Fusina, 7 (Born).
T. 93 488 46 60. P: €25-€30.
by the way, so it includes a wideranging buffet of hot and cold
dishes rather than eggs benedict
and bellinis). And a few weeks
ago, they inaugurated the Majestic
Fashion Tea, a French-style
afternoon tea based on eclairs,
champagne and the world of la
mode. Just the thing for a
glamourous break from your
sightseeing and shopping:
elegant sophistication that’s
about as far as you can get from
the Anglophile, hipster and
futuristic spirit imbued in the
post-lunch ventures of places
like the Barceló Raval hotel.
Once settled into the
comfortably anachronistic world
of the Majestic, it’s time to take
some strategic decisions. First of
all, decide between the two tea
options on offer: eclair + hot drink
+ home-made fruit cake (€16); or
glass of Ruinart champagne +
savoury eclair + eclair from ‘The
Fashion Menu’ + home-made fruit
cake + macaron + hot drink (€31).
That’s not the last decision you’ll
have to make, however, because
all the eclairs are inspired by the
collections of five designers, so
you’ll need to choose between
Brunello Cucinelli, Bulgari, Jimmy
Choo, Rosa Clarà and Salvatore
Ferragamo. But once all that effort
is over, it’s time to relax and let
Gràcia classic is also a place of
your spirit and stomach be
old-school glamour, a fact
impressive buildings in Barcelona.
in particular, its individuality.
Michelin-starred chef Nandu
Jubany is in charge of the hotel’s
Pg. de Gràcia, 68-70.
restaurant and has created an
innovative menu that includes one Majestic Fashion Tea,
daily 4pm-7pm.
of the city’s best brunches (that’s
the Barcelona version of brunch,
A majestic afternoon
Fashion, champagne and Parisian glamour
in the heart of Barcelona. By Laura Conde
For many Catalans, the Majestic
Hotel & Spa will always be
associated with political group
CiU, as it’s the place where its
leaders have long gathered to
celebrate electoral victories,
appearing before joyful supporters
on the building’s main balcony.
However, from the outside, it’s not
obvious that this Passeig de
Young ace
Bancal del Bosc 2012
DO Montsant. Vol. 14.5%.
Expressive minerals from forestrich lands make this Montsant
wine a winner. Fruity flavours
predominate and it’s powerful on
your palate, while the aftertaste is
sexy and delicious.Set on a
25-hectare property in a protected
mountainous region, Vinyes
Domènech have a bioclimatic
building whose architecture is
integrated into the surrounds: it
makes use of rainwater
and natural springs,
and 90 percent of its
electricity comes from
renewable energy. In
2012, a lack of rainfall
resulted in the
concentrated flavours
in the bottle – the
velvety touch and
spontaneity of the
young grenache
vines will set your
tongue a-tingling.
Want to buy?
Head to Lafuente
(Aragó, 241)
where a bottle
costs €10.15
This is the daytime
version of cocktail
bar Sifón, just
next door. Create
your midday meal
from a list of six
dishes of which you
can choose two, with no
restrictions on which comes first,
plus a lovely glass of wine and
fantastic desserts. All for just €10.
Espalter, 4. T. 93 329 68 32
In the heart of the Sants
neighbourhood, this tapas
bar gets back to the roots of
Catalan tradition with an
added playful and creative
touch. And they actually do it
very well. Their signature dishes
include their take on familiar tapas
– such as patatas bravas whipped
up and served in a glass – and a
highly recommendable set lunch
menu. Galileu, 30. T. 93 140 18 53
Fancy a sandwich, salad or crepe for
lunch or dinner? The place to head is
Guixot, which specialises in jazzing
up such simple fare with
delicious combos (e.g.
the Gòtic sandwiches,
with chicken, brie,
avocado, aubergine
and mayo), all in a
relaxed atmosphere
with great service.
Riereta, 8. T. 93 329 95 53
This phenomenal vegetarian restaurant,
owned by the presidents of Slow Food
Barcelona, serves a creative, well-made and
affordable set lunch menu from which
you can choose one, two or three
courses. At night they bring out
the big guns – home-made pasta
and international dishes. Most of
the ingredients come from their
own garden just outside the city.
The excellent flavours shine from the
first bite. Palau, 5. T. 93 318 69 26
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 55
Food & Drink
Long live the queen!
says they work with a catalogue of
ten different Bloody Marys. And
they suggest a well-paired tapa for
some of the more sophisticated
variants. The Bloody Caesar is an
insane experiment that has the
very refreshing tuna tapa. It’s an
orgiastic drink that goes down like
water. And I’m about to keel over in
pleasure when Luca serves burrata
alongside a Bloody Mary with
also a capful of guacamole that
goes with a mezcal Bloody Mary,
Combining the elegance of three
which I don’t order out of prudence.
DTQYP%JGUVGTƁGNFUQHCUCPFCDC[ This is ecstasy dressed in red, a
window overlooking the quiet street winning proposition, a modern
of Ferrer de Blanes, the Bloody
cocktail bar indeed. –Òscar Broc
Mary Cocktail Lounge enhances its
ambience with retro music, low
lighting and an angled bar lined
Ferrer de Blanes, 3 (Gràcia).
with bottles. Bartender Luca, one
of the trio behind this new venture, Tue-Sat 5pm-3am.
Alta Italia
Portal Nou, 19 (Sant Pere).
T. 93 423 59 96. P: Around €25
People who know Italy well say
the best service and the best
food are usually to be found in
the trattoria, a word derived from
the term trattore, ‘host,
innkeeper’. They are
unpretentious places, family-run,
where la mamma is in charge of
the kitchen and il patrone the
dining room, with the children
drafted as waiters. In the Born,
Nicola Villano and Adriana
Guilardino, Neapolitan and
Piedmontese respectively, have
successfully reproduced an
institution essential to Italian
town and village life, especially at
midday, even though their
The Neapolitan-Piedmontese
connection is a coincidence that
works in the diner’s favour,
style these are two of the most
different and yet most
complementary cuisines in Italy:
from the south, pasta and
seafood, and from the north,
But during the week – when they
offer a €12 set lunch menu, with
courses to choose from, dessert,
wine and bread included – it’s the
predominates, thanks to the
arrival of Simone Mándico, an
excellent Neapolitan chef who’s a
56 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
dab hand with pasta (generally
handmade every day by Adriana)
and seafood – and dishes that
combine both, like their fabulous
spaghetti alle vongole. From time
to time, la mamma also makes
agnolotti, a speciality from Asti,
made al plin – Piedmontese for
‘pinch’ – using the thumb and
from leftover stock, in the same
way Catalans make canelons.
As well as the vitel tonnè (‘beef
Piedmontese classic) and the
bollito misto (a traditional stew
from Turin), the star dish of this
cauda, raw and crunchy fresh
vegetables, served with a warm
sauce made of anchovies, garlic
and olive oil, which Adriana will
prepare to order for a minimum
number of diners, making it ideal
for sharing with friends. Ordering
à la carte, you can have a lunch or
dinner for €25.
–Marcelo Aparicio
(For 2)
2 Set menus ........................€24.00
TOTAL (with VAT) ...............€24.00
Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink
critics review anonymously and
pay their own bills.
Into the Ɓre
Boned, trimmed and dressed
This year Dani Lechuga’s Caldeni, the epitome of a steakhouse for
the 21st century celebrates its 10th anniversary. By Pau Arenós
Three years after opening
Caldeni, Dani Lechuga decided
to focus on meat. Nothing to do
with the family name – ‘Lechuga’
means lettuce in Spanish – but it
did run in the family. With a
relative in the beef import
business, he was guaranteed a
supply of top-quality product.
This October will mark the
10th anniversary of the
restaurant, which last year was
joined by Bardeni, a ‘meat bar’.
Side by side with a shared
kitchen. The economy doesn’t
allow for more: any new venture
has to be carefully considered to
guarantee its survival.
The chef is convinced he
made the right decision with the
meat, and that specialising
gives you visibility. ‘We serve
clean cuts. We offer a different
way of eating meat, without
bones or tendons.’ If the raw and
Espai Kru is a 21st-century
seafood restaurant, says
Lechuga, Caldeni could be the
equivalent for hooves and horns.
His initial idea for the premises
next door was to open a
butcher’s, a place to bone, trim
and dress. He’s still thinking
about installing a climatecontrolled cooler (but where?) to
Look out for:
The wine list, which has no
brutal mark-ups.
Recommended for:
Anyone looking for an honest
Stay away if:
You suffer from high blood
are also butchers, like Renzo
Garibaldi (of Osso in Lima) are
characters to watch, because
nostalgia for the Palaeolithic era
is growing by the day. The ‘paleo’
diet is a tough bone to chew.
Lechuga leaves the Nebraska
a 24-month-old animal. Making
the sauce is a two-day process,
and it has 32 ingredients.’
Academic cooking attracts him
too. It’s as tender as a wellfattened gourmet’s cheek.
I demand precision with
regard to breeds and ageing: ‘I
can’t be exact because each
piece is different.’ A dark and
bloody world. ‘Talking about beef
is complicated. How long to age
it? It depends. Some overdo it,
they sell rotting meat. Ageing is
for loins and ribs. At three weeks
they’re fantastic.’ Thanks to his
contact in the industry, he can
pick and choose: ‘Out of a
hundred, I’ll take one. Or none.’
The oxtail cannelloni with
sinful. He demonstrates a good
sense of what’s in with the beef
carpaccio, dressed like a
ceviche. The fricassee – Angus
shoulder! – with Mexican tacos
is a dish developed for Bardeni. I
drink Trio Infernal’s Riu 2011, a
Minus points for the octopus
(too tough) with calçot onions
and egg yolks, which is like an
omelette. But the previous
courses were brilliant: surf and
turf cod cheeks and suckling pig,
and peas that could make a
grown man weep. Some of the
desserts are refreshing,
combining pineapple-carrotcoconut, and others are lighter
versions of classic desserts,
such as Black Forest gâteau in
the form of chocolate pa de
pessic sponge with cherry and
beetroot sorbet
Which new pastures should
Lechuga head for next? It would
room for a grill: smoke makes a
great accompaniment to beef.
And continue his research,
become an authority in the world
of beef, create something
him sought-out for his
ruminative wisdom. So that
when we think of cuts of beef,
we’d think of Lechuga.
València, 452 (Sagrada Família).
T. 93 232 58 11.
€45 (not including wine).
Set menus: €26, €40, €55 & €65.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 57
Food & Drink
Croquetas: little rolls of goodness
You often pay
per croqueta –
expect them
to be around
€1 each.
Careful thought goes into the fillings of their
croquetas, which can include octopus, olives or
pig’s trotters and chickpeas. Viladomat, 59.
In the upper reaches of Gràcia, close to Fontana
metro, hunt out this tapas bar with a range of
splendid croquetas. Sant Lluís, 9.
Cultures collide here with the chicken tandoori
croqueta created by the Argentinian chef of
this restaurant in the Sants district. Béjar, 66.
This trendy bar is known for some top croquetas,
especially these ham-heavy ones, which they call
croquetón Vic. Còrsega, 343.
In this restaurant a short walk from Camp Nou,
chef Sergi Amor lovingly crafts amazing oxtail
(cua de bou) croquetas. Joan Güell, 189.
Chef Joan Solá uses a range of breadcrumbs
according to the filling, of which our fave is the
baby squid (calamarsons). Sepúlveda, 173 bis.
Croquetas made with meat cooked in broth (carn
d’olla) are a local tradition – this place serves
some of BCN’s best. Pg. Sant Gervasi, 65.
Head north to taste... well, we don’t know. Here
the croqueta flavours change daily. But they’re
always good! Varsòvia, 148.
Try their squid (calamar) croqueta, which some
compare to eating black rice (arrós negre) in
croqueta form. That’s a good thing. Blai, 53.
58 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 59
Food & Drink
Catalan cuisine
7 portes
The eponymous Seven Doors
open on to as many dining
salons, all kitted out in elegant
19th-century décor. Longaproned waiters bring regional
zarzuela with half a lobster, a
for example, or rabbit and
snails), a wide array of fresh
seafood, and heavier dishes
such as herbed black-bean
stew with pork sausage, and
Reservations are available only
for certain tables; otherwise,
get there early.
Passatge Isabel II, 14.
T. 93 319 30 33.
M: Barceloneta (L4)
Barcelona has a wealth of
eateries that have improved over
the years. Many are back on the
map after having been forgotten,
and some have the added bonus
of having modernised without
going over the top, to catch up
with the demand for the quality
products that their clients want.
One such case is Agut.
Gignàs, 16. T. 93 315 17 09.
M: Drassanes (L3), Jaume I (L4)
Bar Velódromo
This classic serves quality dishes
from early morning until the wee
hours. With Jordi Vilà (one of the
city’s masters in the kitchen) at
the helm, they produce an
endless succession of dishes
and tapas that will teach you
about Catalonia’s gastronomic
heritage. The full menu is
available all day, so if you fancy
some Iberian ham at 7am or a
croissant for a midnight snack,
just say so.
Muntaner, 213. T. 93 430 60 22.
M: Hospital Clínic (L5)
Freixa Tradició
The return of Josep Maria Freixa
to his family home, now that
Ramón has gone off to enjoy
fame in Madrid, has resulted
in an authentic festival of
traditional cuisine: pig’s
trotters with prunes and pine
This space was once occupied by a convent and, in more
recent times, a huge restaurant. It’s just been converted
into a two-part enterprise – one a place for classic tapas
(enter from Doctor Dou, 1), while the other is ideal for
enjoying a vermouth. Carme, 42 (Raval). T. 93 481 36 20.
macaroni in Barcelona.
Sant Elies, 22. T. 93 209 75 59.
M: Sant Gervasi (FGC)
Restaurant Gaig
It’s currently all the rage for
Barna’s top chefs to set up
more-affordable offshoots, and
this one is under the guiding
hand of Carles Gaig. The chef’s
philosophy, as at Petit Comitè,
is a return to grandmotherly
Catalan basics, and the
favourite dish here is the
canelons – hearty, steaming
shredded beef and topped with
a fragrant béchamel. The
various dining rooms manage
to be both modern and
wonderfully comfortable.
Còrsega, 200.
T. 93 453 20 20.
M: Hospital Clínic (L5)
Casa Lepoldo
Rosa Gil, the heart and soul of
this lovely eatery, has carried
out a veritable revolution here,
and with excellent results. The
cuisine has improved – which is
really saying something. They
have two standout dishes: the
capipota and the oxtail.
Sant Rafael, 24.
T. 93 441 30 14.
M: Paral·lel (L2,L3)
Wine bars
Bar Nostàlgic
Although located in the
fashionable Sant Antoni market
area, this bar does not mimic
the Nordic aesthetic of most
new local establishments. They
serve a good selection of
wines, particularly from
Catalonia, plus they have good
beer on tap and an impressive
list of gins, malt whiskies and
special rums. Gin and tonics,
spritz... they make it all,
including tapas to please even
the most sybaritic palates.
Viladomat, 38. M: Sant Antoni (L2)
Can Cisa/Bar Brutal
This restored neighbourhood
bar combines a classic bodega
at the entrance with a wine bar
at the back. They stock 300
wines, all from organic or biodynamic producers around the
world, without chemicals or
60 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
additives, at accessible prices.
Princesa, 14. T. 93 319 98 81.
M: Jaume I (L4)
Casa Mariol
At the Casa Mariol Wine Bar,
which is part of the bodega of the
same name, you’ll have the
chance to get to know suau, which
is a version of a drink (a blend of
soda and coffee) that was
popular in the Ribera de l’Ebre
region decades ago. You can also
taste cask wines from the Ebre,
accompanied by a nice clotxa
(bread stuffed with herring,
onions, tomatoes and garlic), and
then top it all off with delicious
cakes from Batea (a town also in
the Ebre).
Rosselló, 442.
T. 93 436 76 28.
M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5)
Magatzem Escolà
It looks like a hoarder’s
paradise of wine bottles, but
the shop’s staff know exactly
great variety of products, which
is the result of a company that
really knows its business and
has spent more than half a
century dedicated to wine
distribution. Watch out for their
wine tasting and cocktail
Comercial, 13.
T. 93 167 26 55.
M: Barceloneta (L4)
This is one of the largest
information centres for wine not
only in Europe but the world over.
It’s also a wine bar and
restaurant. The latter – which
focuses on traditional cuisine
with a creative touch – is
excellent, by the way.
Diputació, 249.
T. 93 272 61 87.
M: Universitat (L1,L2)
Els pescadors
Josep Maulini and his wife have
turned this into a lovely spot,
combining antique furniture with
modern décor, and retaining its
air of a small-town bar. One
delicious recommendation:
Food & Drink
grilled sardines in sauce, though
they don’t always have them. Rice
dishes are a staple on the menu,
and never disappoint.
Plaça Prim, 1.
T. 93 225 20 18. M: Poblenou (L4)
Piazze d’Italia
A temple of southern Italian
cuisine with an innovative and
provocative twist. The pizza
chef makes the dough spin and
before transforming it into an
outstanding crust. Dare to try
their sweet Nutella pizza, which
is completely over the top, but
not to be missed.
Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 59 77.
M: Rocafort (L1)
Rías de Galicia
This restaurant is the setting for
the Iglesias family’s wonderful
seafood. The menu includes
Cantabrian lobster with garlic,
John Dory and txangurro crab
cannelloni. And when it’s
in season, they have the
Don’t go
exquisite Bordeaux
hungry. Book
restaurants at
Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 70.
M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC)
Tabarca Langosta’s Club
Tino Martínez, sailor and chef
extraordinaire, has opened an
unusual restaurant in
Barcelona specialising in
lobster: he has recovered the
from the island of Tabarca, and
he does so with a menu that
includes lobster and rice
cooked in the lobster stock.
Comte Borrell, 160. T. 661 074
704. M: Universitat (L1,L2)
La Bella Napoli
There can be few Barcelona
residents who haven’t tried the
wonderful pizzas served in this
place with an authentic Italian
atmosphere, with noisy,
cheerful waiters. Book a table if
you’re going at the weekend.
Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56.
M: Paral·lel (L2,L3)
La Bricciola
A real Italian trattoria with good
pizzas and fantastic pasta.
Features a good wine list and
some great Italian grappa.
Olzinelles, 19. T. 93 432 19 33.
M: Mercat Nou (L1)
This restaurant-trattoria is a
direct relative of Un Posto al Sol
on C/Urgell, and they both make
really good pizzas.
Princesa, 59. T. 93 315 22 97.
M: Jaume I (L4)
Bar del Pla
somewhere between
a French bistro and a
tapas bar, the Bar del
Pla serves tapas and small
plates (divine pig’s trotters with
foie, superb pa amb tomàquet).
Drinks include Mahou on tap (a
because it’s from Madrid), plus
some good wines by the glass.
Montcada, 2.
T. 93 268 30 03.
M: Jaume I (L4)
El Jabalí
This deli bar, which is
reminiscent of Paral·lel in its
heyday, is a great place to eat
wonderful tapas – try the
patatas bravas, the chicken
salad and the cured sausage –
while sipping on good wine. It’s
also a nice place to sit on the
terrace and do some serious
people watching.
Ronda Sant Pau, 15.
T. 93 441 10 82.
M: Paral·lel (L2,L3)
Tapas 24
Another nu-trad tapas bar
focusing on quality produce.
Among the oxtail stews, fried
prawns and cod croquettes,
however, fans of chef Carles
snacks more in keeping with
his signature style. The McFoie
Burger is an exercise in fastfood heaven, as is the bikini, a
small version of his take on the
ham and cheese toastie.
Diputació, 269.
T. 93 488 09 77.
M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4)
SE Asian
Bangkok Cafè
Squeezed into a matchbox-sized
space, this tiny Thai restaurant
serves delicious curries with a
With its few tables and high level
of success, make sure you
reserve (way) in advance.
Evarist Arnús, 65.
T. 93 339 32 69.
M: Plaça del Centre (L3)
A simple, unpretentious
restaurant with lovely décor and
a wide selection of Indonesian,
Thai and Malaysian dishes. Try
the €14 sampling menu and
take a gastronomic tour.
València, 454.
T. 93 231 60 15.
M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5)
El Petit Bangkok
Authentic Thai specialities
include nem sausages and a
range of curries and wok
dishes. Serious connoisseurs
of Thai food consider this one of
the best restaurants in the city.
Vallirana, 26. T. 616 185 196.
M: Padua (FGC)
Gado Gado
In the Gothic quarter, the longestablished Betawi is a popular
choice for Indonesian food, with
fresh spices and dishes that
balance sweetness and heat.
Their other restaurant, in
Gràcia, also serves Thai
specialities. Try the eponymous
gado gado salad, with a rich
peanut sauce, or bakmi goreng,
traditional stir-fried noodles
with egg and vegetables, or
their delicious curries.
Or, 21. T. 93 179 85 58.
M: Joanic (L4)
Delicious Vietnamese and Thai
specialities fused with other
world cuisines, as in their
mackerel ceviche with daikon
radish and sprouts. Fantastic
beef tartare with sweet basil and
matchstick fries.
París, 162. T. 93 419 49 33.
M: Diagonal (L3,L5), Provença (FGC)
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 61
Edited by
Ricard Martín
[email protected]
The future they promised us
Performing on the same night at Razzmatazz are two DJs who played key roles in the
evolution of cosmically inspired dance music. By Javier Blánquez
Ten years ago, there were some
people willing to imagine how
the future might be. The future
that of our species as a
collective project. Then the dark
arrived, hope turned to
pessimism and the music that
envisaged conquests in space,
voyages and unknown
pleasures became no more
than simple escapism from a
dark reality. Norwegian HansPeter Lindstrøm exploded onto
with ‘I Feel Space’, an invitation
to explore the solar system and
beyond that suddenly brought
disco music with sensual
textures and ambitious
proportions back into style, as if
he was a young Cerrone, or
Moroder’s heir. With time,
Lindstrøm has established
himself as ‘one of those
musicians you have to follow’.
He always has original ideas, a
fantastic feel for melody and a
healthy concern for imagining
unexpected possibilities.
Hard to miss,
Redshape plays
The Loft at Sala
Razzmatazz on May
8 at 12.30am
Expect the unexpected
Lindstrøm will perform on Friday
8 in the Lolita space of
Barcelona mega-club Sala
Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122),
and it’s hard to imagine
a better venue for getting on
board his spacecraft and
heading off with him to the
stars. Doubtless he’ll have
some surprises up the sleeve
of his spacesuit – his last
album Smalhans (which
featured food-inspired cosmic
music) dates from 2012, and
he’s been very quiet ever since.
It remains to be seen whether
he’ll take us back to a sweet
past or propel us forward to an
exciting future.
62 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
Redshape is a DJ who shares
Lindstrøm’s approach, but in
techno format. The German
producer for a long time
remained anonymous, with his
face hidden behind a red plastic
mask like the one in Edgar Allan
Poe’s short story ‘The Masque of
the Red Death’. He was
eventually revealed to be
Sebastian Kramer, a techno
veteran from Berlin who
visualised odysseys to deep
space, following a very similar
line to the hardest sound
pioneers from Detroit,
particularly Underground
Resistance. With lightning
sequences and rigid rhythms,
Redshape’s music has always
Lindstrøm has a
healthy concern
for imagining
been loyal to a concept of techno
as a mental and physical
experience. The happy
Or if you prefer, coincidence is that Redshape
and Lindstrøm are set to
Lindstrøm is in the share a time and a place in
Lolita room on May Barcelona, even though
they’ll play in separate
8 at 12.30am
rooms – the German will be in
The Loft, much better suited to
his assaults of rage and energy.
And will Redshape also bring
fresh surprises? His live
performances tend to follow the
same format – with
a lot of machinery on-stage, very
manual, very physical – but the
sound always changes.
Sometimes it’s retro and
sensual, and sometimes a
radical futurism.
The French high-octave DJ ensemble return once more to
Barcelona. Renowned for their mighty onstage energy,
more similar to a rock concert than turntable set, they are
regulars on the festival scene with their notably original
live performances. Razzmatazz, Friday 29, 1am.
Nasty Mondays
Tattoos, sweat and rock ’n’ roll:
the city’s wildest Monday night
party. Miss it at your peril.
Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla,
113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Mon
midnight. €15 (on the door). €14
Raw Rebels
Dance to the best beats of the
’40s, ’50s and ’60s, with local
and international DJs, in the
heart of the city.
Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça Reial,
7). M: Liceu (L3). Tue 12.30am.
€5. Price includes one drink.
Caníbal Sound
Live acts, DJs and roots music
make for an underground vibe at
this long-running club night.
Sala Apolo (details above). Wed
12.30am. €12 (on the door). €9
(advance). Price includes one
This is the hard rock version of
karaoke, with dressing up and
obsessive fans, all under the
watchful eye of MC, US comedian
and actor, Rachel Arieff.
Sidecar Factory Club (details
above). Thu 10pm. €8. Price
includes one drink.
Take a trip down memory lane
without forgetting to live in the
moment, with hits from the
’70s right up to the present day.
Sala Apolo (details above). Thu
12.30am. €10 (on the door). €8
(advance). Price includes one drink.
The Bus Music Club
Session celebrating noncommercial, non-mainstream
and underground music.
Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122).
M: Bogatell (L4). Thu midnight.
€15 (on the door). €13 (advance).
Price includes one drink.
Happy Techno
The beat will get you at this
weekend party dedicated to newage and old-school dance music.
City Hall (Rbla Catalunya, 2-4). M:
Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Sat
12.30am. €12-€18 (depends on
arrival time and if you sign up on
guest list). Price includes one drink.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 63
Edited by
Martí Sales
[email protected]
Modern space whose food focus is
Italian and Catalan. Along with pizzas
for all tastes, they like to play with
combos such as duck and pear ravioli
in Martini sauce. Casanova, 42
Put it in your diary
If you’re looking for a night out, Barcelona’s gay scene has a
host of regular events for all tastes and types. By Martí Sales
Tuesdays aren’t always the most
fun night of the week, we know that.
So if you’re looking for something a
bit different to do that day and want
to meet new people, head to this
Sant Antoni bar that serves a slice
of omelette with every drink you
order, while for true egg lovers,
there’s also a special supper
based around the humble truita
(omelette in Catalan).
La Penúltima. Riera Alta, 40.
Every Tue, 7pm.
Fancy learning to dance the tango?
Head to El Rouge on Tuesday and
Thursday at 8pm, where
instructors Carmen María Hergos
and Dafne Saldaña will teach from
a gender-breaking perspective.
Later, at 9.30pm, the milonga
(where people dance the tango) is
open for whoever wants to try out
their new moves without having to
adhere to any socially ascribed
El Rouge. Poeta Cabanyes, 21.
Saturday night party for women will
brother event Pervert, so there’s
sure to be a lot of skin and even
more darkness.
Bloc. Ronda Sant Pere, 19-21. May
9, midnight.
the disco of mega-club Arena hosts
a party aimed at women. Featuring
screenings, give-aways and
striptease, this month’s is a
special one as they’re celebrating
13 years of fun and frolicking.
Arena Classic. Diputació, 233. May
7, 11pm.
Liven up your Sunday evening with
the good folk of La Ká, a monthly
event that has just celebrated its
second birthday. This month’s
party is titled ‘Let’s talk about sex
II’, as they revisit the theme of one
of their most popular parties to
date. Expect pole dancing,
competitions and music from the
resident DJs.
Sala Plataforma. Nou de la Rambla,
145. May 17, 7pm. www.facebook.
Organised by the Matinée group,
this month the reins of this regular
64 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
Spacious, modern and elegant,
Bench is all about creative
Mediterranean cuisine. They use
fresh market produce with top-notch
originality and served with a near
perfect presentation. Aribau, 33
Not all gay-friendly restaurants are
in the Gaixample. This cosy Italian
restobar is close to the Sagrada
Família and serves excellent homemade dishes. Roger de Flor, 246
The great outdoors
Around the Barcelona region this month, towns take advantage of the warmer
weather to stage a variety of open-air fairs and festivals. By Nick Chapman
1. Terrassa
travels back in
time at the Fira
2. Standing by
for take-off at
Aerosport 2015
to Granollers for
the Fira de
1. Fira Modernista de Terrassa
Travel back 100 years to the heyday
of Catalan modernisme, at a fair
that centres on the extravagant
parabolic arches and domes of La
Masia Freixa, a masterpiece of
modernista architecture in
Terrassa’s Sant Jordi park. This is
the venue for a period market with
stalls selling all kinds of artisanal
goods and foods, produced used
the same techniques as at the
beginning of the 20th century.
The market is complemented by
workshops and demos of
traditional trades presented by
master craftspeople – everything
from ironmongery and ceramics
to glass-blowing. This year the fair
pays special homage to the
empresario Josep Oller i Roca, the
founder of the original Moulin
Rouge in Paris, who was born in
Terrassa in 1839.
one of the most exciting
adventure sports around. There
are exhibitions of the many
ingenious ways would-be aviators
have devised to get airborne,
including microlights, paramotors,
gliders and gyrocopters, as well
simulators and the latest related
products on the market. You’ll
2. Aerosport 2015
also have the chance to see some
Spain’s only festival of light and
sport aircraft and aviation takes
near Igualada. Aimed equally at
professionals, enthusiasts,
3. La Fira de l’Ascensió
novices and the merely curious,
The Granollers Fira de l’Ascensió
is the biggest trade fair in the
Vallès Oriental, a showcase
for an industrious region and its
many and varied commercial
activities. Last year 60,000
people visited over 170
exhibitors’ stands, representing
sectors as diverse as cars,
agriculture and livestock, as
well as to sample quality local
gastronomy, from traditional
dishes to cured meats, sausages
and cheeses. There are stands
offering handmade goods, craft
products and personalised
clothes, as well as activities
including a huge selection of
tabletop games, open to all.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at & 65
Top Ten
These were always a classic on
the city’s balconies until the
whose name sounds like the title
great number of them, and many
homes, material ones.
needs a last-minute solution.
all night and has saved the skin
of more than one forgetful lover
seeking forgiveness for some
unconfessable transgression.
Bertrana (1867-1941), but, as
is Girona and not Barcelona, we
still wanted to mention her here.
halfway along Passeig de Sant
the eye by a member of the
council’s Parks and Gardens
the fact that the Catalan for
RCPUKGUKUpensaments, which
also means thoughts? Or just
Forget romantic bouquets. This
Violant d’Hongria
She is Barcelona’s giantess
(many Catalan high days and
holidays are marked by
characters from all classes) and
became queen consort of the
Catalan-Aragonese crown, of
countess of Barcelona, lady of
Mercat de les Flors
was culture councillor at
the start of the 1980s, she
decided to convert the Palace
of Agriculture from Barcelona’s
the vestibule hosts a fantastic
Miguel Barceló creation.
Ateneu Flor de Maig
Torrent de les Flors
The name of this Gràcia street
comes from Don Manuel
Torrente y Flores, the self-made
businessman who gave over
lands for the urbanisation of the
International New Rose
(found in the fancy Pedralbes
neighbourhood), this contest is
held to honour the world’s best
roses. Le Petit Prince would be
garden, but it’s worth seeing,
and smelling, it.
Flors Navarro
66 Buy tickets & book restaurants at &
in Poblenou. Since 2012, the
local neighbour organisations.
how to manage the whole kit
and caboodle.
By Ada Castells