ENGLISH EDITION! OFFICIAL GUIDE OF BCN BARCELONA BEATS Discover the city’s soundtrack with our guide to the local music scene 4,95€ MORE: TIMEOUT.COM/ BARCELONA Y MA 1 5 6 0 #0 20 N S C D B UN O S 2 D? RN OUN A RE T U S NA IN ELO EGAT L C R B A 3 . L A P VIN Y E R H I S T OR EE I NG FO T A H B P 1. W AT JAM . SHOP 4 Z Z . JA CHECK OUT THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF HORTA PLUS! HEAD OFF INSIDE F1, FOOD TRUCKS PULL UP, STREET OF STYLE... 2 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com The Best of BCN Time Out Barcelona in English May 2015 Take a trip to the neighbourhood of Horta to discover another side of the city p. 20 Features 14. The rhythms of the city Hannah Pennell reveals the who’s who and what’s what of Barcelona’s music world. 20. A different world You might not know much about Horta, but Andreu Gomila tells you why it’s worth a visit. 24. 21st-century dim sum Ricard Martín takes a tour of the city’s newest Asian restaurants. 26. Al fresco dining Food trucks are the latest gastro trend in BCN – Ricard Martín gets in the queue. MARIA DIAS 28. Escape from it all You’re in a locked room. Solve the clues to get out. Montserrat Rossell explains. Regulars 30. Shopping & Style 34. Things to Do 42. The Arts 64. LGBT 65. Getaways 66. BCN Top Ten Our cover IRISNEGRO IVAN GIMÉNEZ 62. Clubs MIQUEL COLL MOLAS 54. Food & Drink Get a fresh take on the city’s cultural offerings when the museums open at night p. 42 Crazy name, great food. Perhaps the best way to sum up new fusion eatery Bananas p. 54 Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected]) Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features & web editor María José Gómez | Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent, Josep Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Pol Pareja | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors Marcelo Aparicio, Laia Beltran, Javier Blánquez, Òscar Broc, Ada Castells, Albert Castelltort, Nick Chapman, Irene Fernández, Ivan Giménez, Maria Gorgues, Mitchell Haines, Eulàlia Iglesias, Ricard Mas, Iván Moreno, Montserrat Rossell, Martí Sales, Carla Tramullas, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 | Mercedes Arconada [email protected] | Carme Mingo [email protected] | Marketing Clara Narvión [email protected] | Advertising designer Xavi Laborda | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona English edition Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. | All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015 BCU-Welcome Barcelona Global Design Development, SL – GdD® Impressió.KVQITCƁC4QUÅU Distribució S.A.D.E.U. Dipòsit legal B-26040-2014 ISSN 2385-5142 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 3 The hot list BCN_MAY 2015 FRIDAY SATURDAY Charles McPherson Biergarten Jazz Legendary musician plays at Jamboree. Food and drink Poble Espanyol hosts three-day beer festival. MONDAY WEDNESDAY FRIDAY 25th F1 Grand Prix Martha Argerich Pirelli F1 Spanish Grand Prix Sport Activities to celebrate 25 years of F1 in Catalonia. Concert Renowned Argentinian pianist performs. Sport Three days of motor racing at the BCN circuit. 01 02 NICK REUCHEL 04 06 08 DON’T MISS! SUNDAY Spanish Golf Open. This year’s contest takes place at the Real Club de Golf El Prat in Terrassa. THU 14 Così Fan Tutte. Mozart’s splendid opera is performed at the equally splendid Liceu opera house. WED 20 MONDAY SATURDAY THURSDAY My favourite things Sant Ponç Night of the Museums Ciutat Flamenco Festival Music Children’s choir sings hits from stage and screen. Traditions Feast day of the patron saint of herbalists. Culture Spend the evening exploring museums. Music and dance &KUEQXGTƂCOGPEQ talents new and old. SATURDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY Festa Catalana a BCN Primavera Sound Loop 2015 King’s Cup Final Traditions See awe-inspiring human towers in action. Music Weekend festival with amazing line-up. Art Festival that brings the best video art to the city. Football Barça and Athletic Club de Bilbao battle it out. 10 11 16 21 23 28 29 30 4 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 5 People of Barcelona Aaron Feder Musician 39 years old BCN: ET R C E S TOP B. García & M. Sales You’re from Chicago, the home of urban blues. How did you end up taking the Afrobeat route? I’ve always liked groove, rhythm, and I worked in a record store where I could listen to all genres – it’s where I discovered Fela Kuti. I’m a guitarist and it was a very important instrument for him. Music creating a hypnotic beat. Yes, I listened to a lot of improvisational rock groups, such as The Grateful Dead and Phish, with their long songs. They have much in common. With their musical heritage, can an American connect more with African music than a European? Well, perhaps, through jazz and blues. In Catalonia and Spain, however, there are oral trends UWEJCUƂCOGPEQCPFTWODCVJCV also create a connection, like the Central European klezmer. Is Afrobeat still inspiring 40 years after it came into being? Rather than ‘still’, I would say that it has become inspirational again. At the start of the 21st century, a renaissance began with Antibalas, from New York. We’re looking to do something new, with all due respect to Fela Kuti and Tony Allen. Is this kind of music for people who aren’t in a hurry? Yes, escapist music. Like techno MARIA DIAS Your group, Alma Afrobeat Ensemble, was created in Chicago. Does it do better here? In the US, music fares a bit better, even though there is no support. Here there are the savings banks’ foundations and the AIE [Society of Interpretative and Performing Artists], for instance. Also, in Chicago, we have a lot of African Americans but few Africans. There’s more here. Alma’s singers are from Senegal and Nigeria. or house in clubs. Pum, pum, pum, 20 minutes with the same tempo, making you forget the mortgage and problems at home. AN OBJECT: THE ROMAN WALL In particular, the part found in the basement of the restaurant El Gallo Quirico. PLACE OF ORIGIN: HIGHLAND PARK (USA) Illinois, home to the Ravinia Festival, the summer residency of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra. You have a label that produces discs from young Africans living in Barcelona. A new generation? Yes, with as much quality or even more than in the ’90s. Barcelona’s multiculturalism is on the rise – you just have to look in the schools, where kids from all over play together. That’s how a homegrown African music scene was born. With our label, Slow Walk Music, we’ve brought out albums by Nakany Kanté, Masara Traoré, Moya Kalongo, Anita Zengeza... Is there a ‘made in BCN’ Afrobeat, with its own sound? I think so. Alma represents it really well because we’re a mix of people from different parts of the world including Catalans, which not all mixed groups are. –Jordi Bianciotto 6 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com _In Montjuïc castle, you can visit Ɓve underground cells that were used as torture chambers in the 19th and 20th centuries. _ Once back out in the fresh air, take the path running along the castle’s outer wall to the Caseta del Migdia, a hidden café with great views. _For the 1964 Ɓlm ‘Circus World’, John Wayne Ɓlmed inside the Liceu opera house accompanied by three lions. _ On the beaches of Barceloneta, try to spot a game of ta-ka-tà. Similar to tennis, players use their hands rather than rackets to hit the ball – the sound made gives the sport its name. I love BCN Poblenou cemetery Av. Icaria, s/n What am I doing here? Visit this historical cemetery to see the elaborate architecture erected to commemorate the dead. Jan Fleischer MARIA DIAS Spring sound WTF IS... Learn to speak Barcelona with our vocab guide | By Jan Fleischer Sardana The sardana (sar-DA-na) is a traditional Catalan circle dance with slow bouncy steps accompanied by a band (cobla) of mainly wind instruments. See the action every Sunday in front of the Cathedral. Ah, springtime in Barcelona. Everyone’s out for long meals on VGTTCEGUCPFVJGKTƁTUVFC[UCVVJG beach. But what spring really means in the city is the start of the open-air music festival season. And what better way to kick things off than with the wildly popular festival that has the Catalan word for spring right in its name: Primavera Sound. Now in its 15th edition, PS brings huge names as well as up-and-comers, local and international acts, and even gigs in clubs around town. /[ƁTUV25YCUDCEMKPCV the original venue, Poble Espanyol. Now, I’ve got nothing against Poble Espanyol, but the festival outgrew that space in just a few years. Not only did I have to queue so long that I missed three bands on my list, but once inside, the winding streets so quaint by day became the stuff of nightmares, with thousands shoving their way to the next stage. Thank the music gods the festival changed to the sprawling Parc del Fòrum the following year. From the warmth of a late-May afternoon to well into the wee hours you can move easily from one stage to the next, with minimal crowd anxiety. Music lovers look forward to PS every year because we know it’s a stellar three days by the seaside with some of our music heroes, and a chance to discover new faves. We celebrate spring with a festival that IGVUVJKUEKV[YCTOFC[UƁNNGFYKVJ music that turn into long nighttime parties, only ending when the sun’s about to come up. This is what spring sounds like in Barcelona. Jan cried when she saw Patti Smith at PS2007 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 7 The iconic rooftop of Gaudí’s La Pedrera is a must-visit. 48 HRS IN BARCELONA City views and fun for all ages – that’s Tibidabo! 14:00-16:30 Down in the Born Start at the Born Centre Cultural (Pl. Comercial, 12), an iron and glass structure built in 1876 as a market. From there you can stop in to the spectacular Santa Maria del Mar church (Pl. de Santa Maria, 1), a local favourite and setting for many a wedding. Just next to that is the Fossar de les Moreres, a square that might not be much to look at, but which has great UKIPKƁECPEGVQVJGRGQRNGQH Barcelona; it was built over a cemetery where those who died ƁIJVKPIVQFGHGPFVJGEKV[KPVJG 1714 Siege of Barcelona were buried. The square features an GVGTPCNƂCOGVQJQPQWTVJG memory of the fallen. 17:00-19:30 Sustenance and shopping Stop for a break in one of the Born’s lesser-known squares, such as DID YOU KNOW? Sant Pere de les Puel·les or Sant Agusti Vell. The Born is an area that’s packed with boutiques where you can pick up some designer shoes or one-of-a-kind gifts to bring home. As you’re strolling through the streets, keep your eye out for Ivori (Mirallers, 7), an exquisite shop with local designs, On Land (Princesa, 25), where men and YQOGPDQVJECPƁPFPGYVJTGCFU and Studiostore (Comerç, 17), with everything from clothes and eyewear to original cushions. 20:00-23:30 It’s time to eat For dinner, try the Asian tapas at Mosquito (Carders, 46) – they’ll melt in your mouth. Always a sure thing is eating in one of the city’s fresh markets, such as Santa Caterina (Av. Francesc Cambo, 16) with its attention-drawing rooftop, or the Mercat Princesa (Flassaders, 21), where you don’t have to limit your choice to just one 09:00-11:30 COOL HUNTING Once called the ‘Barrio Chino’, the Raval has inspired many a writer. Nowadays, it’s a place where local businesses thrive in the form of unique shops and restaurants, while still maintaining some of its seedy underworld glamour. Urban culture is booming here, alongside gems such as the CCCB and Filmoteca. restaurant but can graze from a buffet of 16. To top off the night, head in the direction of the sea and have a drink in Absenta (Sant Carles, 36) and you’re sure to get a good night’s sleep, the more upscale Zahara Cocktail Club (Pg. Joan de Borbó, 69) or Café de los Angelitos (Almirall Cervera, 26). Trees and parks Start your day with a big breakfast among the tree-lined streets of the Esquerra Eixample. Velodromo (Muntaner, 213) opens at 6am, for those of you really keen to get going, while Travel & Cake (Rosselló, 189), opens every day from 9am and has an eclectic menu of sweet and savoury options. Once you’ve got your energy levels up, jump on public transport and head up to Gaudí’s natural wonder, Park Güell – book in advance on www.parkguell.cat to ensure you get in to the ‘monumental’ zone and save a euro. Bonus! 12:00-14:00 Gracious living Grab a bite down the hill in Gràcia, at the woodsy and spacious Café Salambó (Torrijos, Some historians believe that Christopher Columbus was Catalan, others that he was born in Genoa to a Catalan family. 8 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN BARCELONA. HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S ESSENTIALS On top of Montjuïc, find key Olympics landmarks. 51) or at La Pubilla (Pl. de la Llibertat, 23), specialising in oldschool local food, or if the weather’s nice, in a square such as Plaça del Diamant or Plaça de la Virreina. While you’re in the area, have a look around for some unusual souvenirs in the shop-lined streets – suggestions include Pinc Store for clothes (Encarnació, 24) and Magnesia (Torrent de l’Olla, 192) or Mueblé Martínez de la Rosa, 34) for homewares. 14:30-18:00 Explore modernisme Next stop: the Sagrada Família. Gaudí’s masterpiece gets very crowded, but take your time to appreciate his vision. Once done, walk over to Av. Diagonal to keep the modernisme theme going by stopping at Casa de les Punxes (Rosselló, 260), Palau del Baró de Quadras (Diagonal, 373) and Casa Planells (Diagonal, 332). Alternatively, take the metro from the Sagrada Família (L5) down to Diagonal and stroll down Passeig de Gràcia to just hit the modernisme biggies: La Pedrera (Provença, 261), Casa Amatller (Pg. de Gràcia, 41) and Casa Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). WANDER OFF Many visitors stick to the central areas, but the city is so much more. Gràcia is full of life at all hours of the day, Sarrià retains much of its historical small-town feel, while Poble-sec and Sant Antoni are currently the places to be, thanks to their top cuisine and quality nightlife. And not forgetting the hilltop theme park of Tibidabo. 19:30-02:00 Big night out Try the out-of-this-world double terrace of Invisible-Pizza Ravalo (Pl. Emili Vendrell, 1), Teresa Carles for a healthy vegetarian option (Jovellanos, 2), or the Mediterranean banquet that is Lo de Flor (Carretes, 18). After lining your stomach, get a couple of drinks in Negroni or Tahiti, both in the barladen C/Joaquín Costa (46 and 39, respectively), and then ease on FQYPVQVJGFCPEGƂQQTUCV#RQNQ Marula or other area clubs, before calling it a night. 10:00-12:00 Mountain climbing Head to the ‘mountain’ of Montjuïc. Depending on what you’re in the mood for, you can visit the Joan Miró Foundation (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n), the Olympic Stadium and other nearby constructions from the 1992 Games or walk around the plentiful gardens, including the Jardins del Teatre Grec (Pg. Santa Madrona, 39) and the Jardins Laribal (Pg. Santa Madrona, 2), including the Colla de l’Arròs rose gardens, at their most picturesque in late spring. 13:00-15:00 End on a beach spot Take the cable car from Montjuïc to Barceloneta, where you can relax with a vermouth and a paella. Most restaurants in Barceloneta specialise in seafood, taking advantage of the nearby Med. Also due to the prime real estate, some of the better spots aren’t cheap, but KH[QWoTGHGGNKPIƂWUJVJG[oTGYQTVJ it. Try Can Solé (Sant Carles, 4), La Mar Salada (Pg. Joan de Borbó, 58) or El Suquet de l’Almirall (Pg. Joan de Borbó, 65). A great place for the more budget-conscious, with a huge terrace and fresh, scrummy dishes to go with their relaxed vibe is Santa Marta (Grau i Torras, 59). In 1940, Himmler visited the monastery of Montserrat, allegedly because of the possibility that the Holy Grail was hidden there. Yes, that one. Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 9 Tourism Desk Barcelona... just a click away Find more than 200 suggestions to suit a wide range of tastes PortAventura, get ready for fun! Barcelona is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city that offers visitors a wealth of different products and services. You’ll be UWTRTKUGFCVYJCV[QWECPƁPF when you visit the bcnshop.com website and the Turisme de Barcelona Tourist Information Points around the city. There are many ways to visit Barcelona – in the company of friends, or with your family or partner – and a multitude of reasons to come here: the culture, cuisine, music, art... Whether you’re planning to see the best-known attractions or are looking for a truly special experience, at bcnshop.com [QWoNNƁPFOQTGVJCP suggestions to suit a wide range of tastes. You’re here to see Barcelona, but how will you get around? Here are just a few ideas. There are guided tours on foot, by bicycle or with special vehicles like the Segway, which cover both the city centre and the lesser-known neighbourhoods; running tours and gastronomic excursions; panoramic hop-on hop-off bus tours or themed routes through URGEKƁEFKUVTKEVUEQQMKPI workshops, wine and chocolate tasting, or craft workshops for the little ones; visits to historic buildings such as the Palau de la Música, or to museums, taking advantage of the ArTicket or Barcelona multi-tickets, with free transport and discounts; and babysitting services, wheelchair, pram and pushchair hire, in addition to the standard leftluggage services and airport transfers. There are many Barcelonas to explore. Which one is yours? Discover the full range of possibilities on offer by visiting bcnshop.com. One of Europe’s leading theme parks is just an hour away from Barcelona. PortAventura has six different worlds that offer unlimited thrills and lots of surprises for all ages. If you like extreme sensations, take a ride on Europe’s highest roller coaster, Shambhala. Or if you’ve got kids, they’ll love SesamoAventura, where its magical inhabitants, Bert, Ernie and all the Sesame Street characters, are waiting for you. If you’re a fan of the water, Costa Caribe Aquatic Park will take you on an aquatic adventure. And don’t miss out because this year marks PortAventura’s 20th anniversary and it’s going to be full of surprises! Buy your tickets at: bcnshop.combcnshop.com BARCELONA AND BEYOND BCN city of contrasts BCN is much more Visit some of Barcelona’s bestkept secrets: 360º panoramic views from Torre Baró, and Civil War anti-aircraft batteries at Turó de la Rovira, the 22@ innovation district and the Encants Market. Live Barcelona like a local! Experience the Mediterranean with a boat trip to Badalona, site of one of Catalonia’s most important archaeological sites. Round off your visit with a refreshing glass of craft beer, served with a delicious tapas. Buy your tickets at bcnshop.com bcnshop.com 10 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 11 Get this timeout.com/barcelona Book the best restaurants MARIA DIAS MARIA DIAS Enjoy a wide range of eateries and top dishes across the city Find out what’s on Buy your tickets Get the latest info on what to do while you’re here in town 6JGCVTGƁNOFCPEGHGUVKXCNUEQPEGTVU kids shows... 1PQWTYGDUKVG[QWoNNƁPFFGVCKNUCDQWVYJCVoUQPTKIJVPQYCPFWRVQ date news about the best of what Barcelona has to offer. With new events added each day, you’ll have no excuse not to have fun. You can also buy tickets to the city’s biggest events through our website, whether for concerts, festivals or other cultural events. What’s more, you ECPIGVFKUEQWPVUIGV[QWTVKEMGVUGCTN[CPFDGPGƁVHTQOURGEKCNQHHGTU Discover top ideas for exploring outside Barcelona: where to eat, what to do... at www.timeout.com/barcelona/getaways. Explore the bustling and varied neighbourhoods of Barcelona at www.timeout.com/barcelona/by-area. 12 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 13 BARCELONA MUSIC GUIDE AUDITORI Found in the area of Glòries, where modern buildings are popping up like mushrooms, L’Auditori was one QHVJGƁTUVVQDGDWKNVDCEMKP 1999. The zone is a cultural hive, with the Catalan National Theatre just next door, and the new designthemed DHUB a few minutes’ walk away, but for music, it has to be L’Auditori. Home to the Barcelona and Catalan National Symphony Orchestra (OBC), its extensive programme doesn’t limit itself to classical. In recent times, Turkish pianist Fazil Say, and musicians Jane Birkin, David Byrne and St. Vincent have all passed through, while it’s also home to a small but well-stocked Music Museum. BARCELONA SOUND EVERY CITY HAS ITS OWN RHYTHM, ITS OWN HARMONY. HERE IN BARCELONA, MUSIC IS NOT JUST IMPORTANT – IT’S FUNDAMENTAL. AND IT’S EVERYWHERE. READ ON TO LEARN ABOUT PEOPLE AND PLACES THAT KEEP THE BEAT ALIVE IN BCN. By Hannah Pennell In Catalan, Barcelona Sound translates as So Barcelona, which, if you say it in English, is an apt name, because this musical trend points to a particular facet of the city – its appeal to people from around the world, and the Barcelona Sound was essentially a mix of musical cultures. The concept ƁTUVOCVGTKCNKUGFKPVJGOKFoU (the 1992 Olympics doubtless played their part) and Ojos de Brujo and Manu Chao were just two of those active in this fusion that absorbed any number of styles including reggae, ska, Latin American, Mediterranean and African music, hip hop, punk, rock, electronic, rumba CPFƂCOGPEQ 14 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com CANÇÓ The name for home-grown, Catalan-language music, which originated as Nova Cançó (new song) during the ’50s, when various artists decided to start writing original songs in Catalan, despite the public use of the language being outlawed by the Franco regime. The main proponents were Els Setze Jutges (The Sixteen Judges), a group of singer-songwriters founded in 1961 by Miquel Porter and Josep Maria Espinàs that included such local icons as Lluís Llach. Toward the end of the ’60s, the ‘Nova’part gradually fell out of use, and ‘Cançó catalana’ (Catalan song) became more prevalent. ELS SETZE JUTGES PRIMAVERA SOUND FESTIVALS HELIOGÀBAL It turns out Barcelona lends itself spectacularly well to hosting music festivals, and nowadays there’s one or another on pretty much year-round. While mega-events such as Sónar and this month’s Primavera Sound tend to grab a lot of attention, there are also regular get-togethers for fans of jazz, IWKVCTƂCOGPEQCPFIQURGNCU well as those festivals where the venue is as important as the acts (a good example is relative newcomer Jardins de Pedralbes). Most last a couple of days and/or nights, while others go on for months and months (Festival del Mil·lenni, we’re looking at you). Good weather, easy access for international acts and audiences, and innumerable potential venues all help this industry thrive. And long may it continue. In 1995, the Heliogàbal Cultural Association (Ramon y Cajal, 80) was created in the neighbourhood of Gràcia to promote artistic and cultural activities. Twenty years later, the place is booming, having established itself as one of the best independent live music venues in the city. It’s certainly not the biggest, but it does have one of the largest ranges of performers with recent acts playing acoustic guitar, rumba, garage, Catalan pop and indie (not all at the same time). Just over the road, the owners recently opened Cap Verd, a snack bar with great food to kick off a special musical night. FLAMENCO DANI CANTÓ JAMBOREE JAMBOREE For many in Barcelona, jazz means Jamboree. Part of the extensive Mas i Mas group (which also own the various Moog and Tarantos venues), the club opened its doors at Plaça Reial, 17, in 1960, although the genre was already YGNNGUVCDNKUJGFJGTGYKVJKVUƁTUV performances in 1920. Chet Baker and Dexter Gordon were among early musicians on Jamboree’s stage, while Ella Fitzgerald and Duke Ellington celebrated its sixth anniversary with a concert at the Palau de la Música Catalana. Today, it hosts two nightly concerts every day of the year, with local and KPVGTPCVKQPCNRGTHQTOGTUTKHƁPIQP all styles of the genre. JORGE MARTÍN $CTEGNQPCKUPQVVJGƁTUVRNCEGVJCV springs to mind when thinking of ƂCOGPEQDWVVJGEKV[JCUC ƂCOGPEQJGTKVCIGFCVKPIDCEM almost 100 years, with local stars that include Miguel Poveda and Carmen Amaya. Flamenco makes some locals uneasy, promoted as it was by Franco as a symbol of Spanish culture. But long-standing gypsy communities, mass immigration from southern Spain in the ’50s and ’60s, and popular venues (tablaos) all contribute to its having a valid place in the city. MIGUEL POVEDA SCOTT CHASSEROT Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 15 MORE! ROCK ON If you’re looking to let your hair down and bang your head to heavy guitar licks, these are the places to go. Open since 1976, Magic Club (Pg. Picasso, 40) has two FCPEGƂQQTUVJCVUVC[QRGP until 6am. Sala Rocksound (Almogàvers, 116) is one of a few venues offering live rock gigs, while Bollocks Bar (Ample, 46) is renowned for cheap booze and a mannequin of Iron Maiden’s Eddie hanging off the wall. LA PEGATINA DISCO TIMES Get your groove on at Ocaña (Pl. Reial, 13-15), a multiƂQQTGFURQVTKIJVKPVJGEKV[ centre also good for dining and cocktails, while just a few minutes away is the ever-sostylish-looking Dome Club (La Rambla, 33), which opened its doors at the end of April. For funksters, Marula Café (Escudellers, 49) will keep you happy, and if you’re heading uptown, the place the posh kids like to go is Sutton (Tuset, 13). KEEP IT CLASSICAL JOHN TALABOT This Barcelona DJ and producer, whose professional title is adopted from the name of his school (real name Oriol Riverola), saw his stock rise with the release of his critically lauded 2012 album, fIN. His star continues to shine, with a recent appearance at Coachella, a gig supporting Jamie xx on tour, and Talaboman, a new collaborative project with Swede Axel Boman. LA PEGATINA Lively Catalan group that played close to 900 concerts around the YQTNFKPVJGKTƁTUVFGECFG5MCCPF rumba are the seven-man band’s key sounds, and they’ve been local pioneers in using the internet to promote their music, offering free album downloads and even a video game. This month they release a new record, Revulsiu, and perform at Sala Salamandra (Av. Carrilet, 301, L’Hospitalet) on Friday 15. Many of Barcelona’s venues for classical music are landmarks in their own right. The Gran Teatre del Liceu opera house (La Rambla 51-59) and the Palau de la Música Catalana are doubtless already on your to-do list if you’re a fan of the genre. For smaller, more intimate surrounds, try any number of the historical buildings in the historic centre that include recitals in their agendas – Palau Dalmases (Montcada, 20) and the Reial Cercle Artístic de Barcelona (Arcs, 5) are just two examples. Finally, it’s worth checking out the programmes of the local civic centres (www.bcn.cat), as they host regular cycles and events featuring local musicians. 16 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com MANEL This Barcelona pop band sings GPVKTGN[KP%CVCNCP6JGKTƁTUV album, Els millors professors europeus, was released in 2008, winning plaudits from the critics, while the 2011 follow-up took the top spot in Spain’s list of record sales a week after its release – the ƁTUVVKOGKP[GCTUVJCVC Catalan-language album achieved this. But it only took two years for them to repeat the feat with Atletes, baixin de l’escenari (2013). MIQUI PUIG Puig (pronounced pooch) is a multifaceted musician from just outside Barcelona, who is following a 16-year career in the group Los Sencillos with solo success both as a recording artist and DJ. Catch him in the latter guise at La [2] de l’Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 111) with his regular Old Wave New Wave night, this month scheduled for Friday 8. NITSA Staying with Apolo, in both the main club (Nou de la Rambla, 111) and La [2], Nitsa nights have been spearheading indie and electronic music since 1993 with weekend concerts and DJ sets. Local acts mingle with international guests – among those on this month’s lineup are Berliner Marcel Dettmann (Sat 8) and Detroit native Mike Huckaby (Fri 15) along with Barcelona’s own DJ Fra (Sat 23) and Shelby Grey (Fri 29, Sat 30). PALAU DE LA MÚSICA STANDSTILL PALAU DE LA MÚSICA Constructed between 1905 and 1908, the elaborate modernista design of this musical landmark is the work of architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. He was commissioned to create a home for the choral group Orfeó Català, and it was paid for by public subscription. In its more than 100 years, not only has it hosted myriad concerts of all musical genres, it’s also witnessed key political moments. In 1960, a last-minute ban on a Catalan song at a concert attended by Franco led to a protest in the Palau – the incident came to be known as ‘Els Fets al Palau’ (The Events at the Palau). STANDSTILL With an oddly counter-intuitive name for a band, Standstill originated in the hardcore punk underground sector of Barcelona’s music scene. Having recorded their ƁTUVVYQCNDWOUKP'PINKUJVJG[ changed to Spanish for their third and later discs. In 2006, after almost a decade in the business, they rejigged their line-up, set up their own label and found a new niche in the indie rock genre. RECORD STORES A few years back, Barcelona had a booming record store industry. The thirst of locals for vinyl was such that almost an entire street just off La Rambla was dedicated to the sale of LPs and singles. But today, C/Tallers is a shadow of its former self. The internet and ongoing ƁPCPEKCNETKUKURWVRCKFVQVJGIQQF times for stockists such as Discos Castelló (which once had six shops, but today it’s just one, at Tallers, 7) and Discos Revolver (Tallers, 11 and 13). They’re not ready to lift the needle off the record just yet though. Back catalogues are a boon, and as vinyl comes back into fashion, collectors are looking for good deals on the classics. Meanwhile, a new generation of niche stores are trying their luck – Ultra-Local (Pujades, 113) focuses on Catalan indie. UNDERGROUND ULTRA-LOCAL RECORDS When we say ‘underground’, we’re talking about music played on the Metro. And when we say ‘music played on the Metro’ we’re not talking about those sweaty men with the accordions and speakers QPYJGGNUTCVJGTVJGQHƁEKCN DWUMGTUYJQƁNNVJGEKV[oU/GVTQ with song and sound. There are 39 spots reserved for these performers, who have to audition to earn the right to share their music with the travelling masses. Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 17 PRIMAVERA SOUND TOP TEN! By Marta Salicrú #01 #06 PATTI SMITH – FRI 29 & SAT 30 Seeing the US singer and rocker live is always an experience: the charisma and energy she exhibits on stage have to be seen to be believed. Here she’ll perform her iconic debut album Horses in its entirety 40 years after its release, alongside two of the original musicians on the disc. If you prefer the New Yorker’s poetic side, on Saturday 30, Smith will offer an acoustic and spoken word recital. #02 OMD – WED 27 Some musicians deserve the ‘one-hit wonder’ tag, but others are baptised as such through pure ignorance. OMD are mainly known for ‘Enola Gay’, but during the almost 20 years they were together, the group accumulated such a collection of anthems, the notion of associating them with just one is laughable. They’ll perform classics, but also champion their latest album, English Electric (2013). ARIEL PINK – FRI 29 Pink’s psychedelic, infectious and mutant pop made him a star in the indie universe after he emerged from the underground. His performance at Primavera Club 2012, which saw the LA native wander the stage like a maniac, was magnetic. He’s the most prominent of those US musicians who revisit ’60s genres with an uninhibited lack of loyalty. album destined for many a ‘best of 2015’ list. Filled with riffs both catchy and strong, and replete with heartbreaking lyrics, seeing it played live will be like the good kind of kick to the pit of your stomach. #04 BELLE & SEBASTIAN – FRI 29 The arrival of the Scottish group on the mid-’90s indie scene generated ƂQQFUQHKOKVCVQTUCPFKVUFGNKECVG but dark chamber pop won over legions of sensitive souls. But nine years later, boredom led the band to reinvent itself (without totally abandoning its iconic sound) with Girls in Peacetime Want to Dance (2015), embracing Euro disco, Balkans dance music and Brazilian percussion. #05 #03 SLEATER-KINNEY – FRI 29 A key group in the alternative rock scene during the ’90s and up till their 2005 split, the female trio returns to the stage this year. They bring with them No Cities to Love, an Dubnobasswithmyheadman (1994), the album that saw them embrace techno and discover their distinctive hypnotic sound. And It’s this milestone that brings them to Primavera Sound. Prepare for a dark and long session. #07 ANTONY AND THE JOHNSONS – THU 28 *GOC[PQVDGVJGOQUVRTQNKƁEQH musicians – and has a certain tendency to recycle – but Antony Hegarty is, above all, a performer, a singer capable of delving into your soul. Here he may give us a taste of YJCVYKNNDGJKUƁTUVCNDWOUKPEG Swanlights (2010) – Hegarty has described the new work as ‘an electronic disc with its teeth sharpened’, and plans to release it under the alias Anohni. #08 UNDERWORLD – SAT 30 Their song ‘Born Slippy. NUXX’ helped open the eyes and minds of ’90s indie kids, plunging them in VQFCPEGƂQQTJGFQPKUO.CUV[GCT marked the 20th anniversary of THE REPLACEMENTS – THU 28 Considered to be among the fathers of alt-rock, if you associate The Replacements with punk, have a listen to their 1984 Let It Be album. It starts with ‘I Will Dare’, a jangle pop gem that’s more The GoBetweens than The Clash, light years from the hardcore they also cultivated and symbolic of their wide-ranging back catalogue. Dissolved in 1991 and re-formed in 2012, the group playing here includes original members Paul Westerberg and Tommy Stinson. 18 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com #09 RIDE – FRI 29 Along with My Bloody Valentine and Slowdive, this British HQWTUQOGYCUQPGQHVJGƂCI bearers of shoegaze, the guitarDCUGFCFQTPGFRQRVJCVƂQWTKUJGF in the UK during the second half of the ’80s and start of the ’90s. Ride broke up in 1996 then reformed in 2014, and their performance at Primavera Sound 2015 will be the only opportunity to see them in Spain this year. #10 THE STROKES – SAT 30 6JG[YGTGVJGƁTUVITQWREQPƁTOGF for this 15th anniversary edition of Primavera Sound, proclaimed with an ad that covered a building. This QXGTVJGVQROQXGYCULWUVKƁGFD[ the fact that the quintet released their celebrated debut album Is This It in 2001, the same year the festival began. The Strokes don’t bring any new material with them, but they do have their 2013 album, Comedown Machine, which signalled a return to the sounds of their earliest days. PLAÇA D’EIVISSA I HORTA U B Y A N DR E A GOMIL APH Y P HO T O G R S D IA MAR IA C/ DE CHAPÍ 20 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com H orta isn’t a district, it’s a feeling, you might say, paraphrasing some sports journalist reaching for the easy pearl of wisdom. The fact is, as I’m assured by Oriol, owner of the ice-cream shop L’Eivissenca, people from Horta are not from Barcelona. ‘We feel different,’ he says. Perhaps it’s because the altitude keeps the area two degrees cooler. Perhaps it’s because of the number of people proudly sporting T-shirts that read ‘Sóc d’Horta’ (‘I’m from Horta’). Because the air quality is better. Because there are so many shops that have been in business for over 100 years. Or because it was one of the very last outlying towns to become part of Barcelona. I don’t know. But I’d say that Horta is a place – and here I’m laying my reputation in Horta on the line – that is still how many Barcelona neighbourhoods must have been, before they began to lose their character. A place where passers-by greet each other on the street and where the baker can recite the names of whole families from memory. Civic pride, some may call it. Or, simply, the effect of having survived post-Olympic Barcelona. Stepping out of Horta metro station, on line 5, onto Plaça d’Eivissa, it’s as if I’ve left Barcelona far behind. It’s a pleasant square, perfect really. When you sit at one of the terraces, people look you over, as if to say, ‘He’s not from round here’. Waiters chat in the doorway. A mother and daughter are sharing an irresistible-looking plate of fried squid rings, with a tiny glass of beer each. The blackboard outside the Frankfurt bar tempts me: squid, mussels, patatas bravas and two tankards of beer: €13.50. It’s true – we’re not in Barcelona any more! If you head up the hill on C/ d’Horta, turn right on C/ de Palafox and then left onto C/ Campoamor, you’ll be completely sure. The oldfashioned townhouses and country mansions that line the street have a charm that’s KORQUUKDNGVQƁPFKP$CTEGNQPC+H+HGNVHQTC moment, on Plaça d’Eivissa, that Horta was a Montmartre, a hilltop district, with its daytime bustle and its nightlife, its terraces where RGQRNGUVQRVQEJCVPQY+HGGN+oOQPVJGƁPGUV street in Barcelona, a place I’d like to live. Not Pedralbes, Vila Olímpica or Gràcia. Horta! People tell me Horta is ‘a village that has everything you want from a big city.’ And with ‘a strong identity,’ of course. They also tell me that Hortencs, the natives, shop in the neighbourhood and are not especially interested in labels – I hear this at the Jamarcor lingerie store, from Andreu and Joan, red Lacoste polo shirts, round faces, charming, and with retail experience in other areas – and that they prefer to remain off the radar. They’re happy the way they are, although they don’t want to be completely forgotten. Horta exists, and the rest of Barcelona needs to know about it. ‘Maybe we do get forgotten,’ they admit. If anyone was asking, they’d like to have some important cultural institution, which would mean people from elsewhere were obliged to come here. All they need, I suggest, is something on the scale of Sala Flyhard, the tiny contemporary theatre space that is an obligatory bimonthly port of call in Sants. I mention the theatre because Horta has theatrical traditions: it was home to some of the actors and directors who founded the city’s Teatre Lliure, and the impressive Cal Mariner library, housed in a 16th-century farmhouse, specialises in theatre. Time will tell. Glòria, of the Pastisseria Mayol, which has been in the area for 160 years, and may be the oldest cake shop in Barcelona, smiles when I ask her about Horta’s pride. ‘It still has that village feel,’ she says. In fact, she remembers IT’S A VILLAGE THAT HAS EVERYTHING YOU’D WANT FROM A BIG CITY, AND A STRONG IDENTITY UGGKPIƂQEMUQHUJGGRCPFJGTFUQHIQCVU grazing in the north of the district when she was small. They’ve lost some things and gained others, because today Horta must be one of the tidiest neighbourhoods in the city. It must be a great place to live, it occurs to me. It has almost everything, and if you work ‘in Barcelona’, you can be there in 20 minutes. As well as Plaça d’Eivissa, there’s Plaça Bacardí and even the Parc del Laberint, without question the city’s best green space. And there are more decent restaurants and bars, starting with Quimet, than you can count. And the people – especially the people. CLASSICS HORTA DNA QUIMET D’HORTA 6JKUKU*QTVCoUWPQHƁEKCNVQYPJCNNVJG nerve centre of neighbourhood life and café of choice for the local intelligentsia. For 87 years they’ve watched fashions come and go, while staying true to the bottle-lined walls and the memory of their late-lamented parrot, Juanito, who imitated the whistle of passing trams. Their sandwiches, served on crunchy ciabatta bread and with more than 80 ƁNNKPIUJCXGPGCTOCIKECNRTQRGTVKGU Pl. d’Eivissa, 10 ⓣ 93 358 19 16 www.quimethorta.com PASTISSERIA MAYOL 9JGPƂQEMUQHUJGGRUVKNNTQCOGF*QTVC the Mayol family opened a patisserie a little further down the road from where it stands now. That was back in 1854. )NÎTKCVJGQYPGTKUVJGƁHVJIGPGTCVKQP at the head of the business, and invites me to try a pastisset de cabell d’àngel – CPnCPIGNoUJCKToRCUVT[ƁNNGFYKVJ pumpkin jam – scrumptious! Traditional delights such as matons de Pedralbes (almond-milk blancmanges), creamƁNNGFtortells (ring cakes), puff pastries and torró de crema (bars similar to nougat) are the big sellers. Horta, 59 ⓣ 93 429 07 50 BODEGA MASSANA Jordi assures me that Hortencs drink more red wine than white, and that their favourite varieties are from the Penedès, Batea and Gandesa. At the weekend, however, the top tipple is vermouth from Reus. Horta might not be Barcelona, but a trend is a trend and the youth are the same everywhere. It’s as true now as it YCU[GCTUCIQYJGPVJGƁTUVDCTTGNU rolled into the bar. Insider tip: on Saturdays they do excellent grilled breakfasts. Horta, 1 ⓣ 93 429 10 38 www.bodegamassana.com LA VITAMÍNICA D’HORTA This is surely one of the bestestablished vegetarian restaurants in Barcelona, yet the regulars look as if they’d prefer a traditional meaty stew to breaded tofu. The bar area serves beers and sandwiches suitable for omnivores, CPFVJGKTUGVNWPEJOGPWCNQPGLWUVKƁGU the trip up to Horta. If they have bunyols de carabassó (courgette fritters) don’t think twice about ordering them! Pg. Maragall, 217 ⓣ 93 456 10 09 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 21 CHECK OUT THE LABYRINTH PARK (PG. CASTANYERS, 1) AND SEE HOW LONG IT TAKES YOU TO GET OUT OF THE MAZE DUPLEX Restaurants old and new Can Gaig d’Horta, the neighbourhood’s most famous – and Michelin-starred – restaurant, closed its doors in 2004. And Can Joanet, a local institution, has just followed suit. But there’s no need for tears. As long as they have the bucolic, emblematic Can Cortada, all will be ƁPG #XFGNo'UVCVWVFG%CVCNWP[CUP6 427 23 15). The restaurant opened 20 years ago in a former castle built on the remains of a Roman villa, which is listed as part of Barcelona’s historical heritage. Their salt cod with roquefort is more than respectable, and they’re specialists in all kinds of grilled meats. There are few white-tablecloth establishments in Horta. The reigning model is the bar-restaurant, with Quimet on Plaça d’Eivissa as prime example, although others lean toward hamburgers, vermouth or pizza. One bar that’s all the rage with local youths is Setze (Pere Pau, 16; T. 93 429 65 23). It’s been around for three years now, and it’s still known as ‘the new bar’. Mercè, owner and manager, tells us it’s a hangout for ‘devils’ and drummers sVJGITQWRUVJCVRTQXKFGVJGƁTGYQTMUCPF rhythm section for the Catalan pyrotechnic street celebrations called the correfoc ƁTG run). Everything on the menu is home-made, except the squid, which she can’t get to turn out to her satisfaction. Their big hit is the Setze burger, an explosion of calories with hamburger, onion, bacon and a fried egg. There’s also a pizza version, with mince instead of hamburger. Teenage rocket fuel. And while the kids recharge their batteries, their older brothers and sisters check in at La Bodegueta d’Horta (Pere Pau, 4; T. 655 655 655), now entering its third year. The serve a white Verdejo that sends pleasant shivers down the spine and sparks up into the brain, while the complementary slices of cheese on toast arrive like a welcome surge of optimism. The same feeling appears when talking to Àlex in Destapa’t (Chapí, 56). He opened in February BODEGA MASSANA and already has a loyal clientele, fans of his smashed eggs with ham (huevos estrellados) and patatas bravas. A local, he spent 15 years working in Montbau and Gràcia. He wanted something closer to home, to be surrounded people who share his music tastes – soul, blues and R&B. Mission accomplished. Gin and lemonade The real jewel in the crown of Plaça d’Eivissa isn’t to be found in any of the bars, but at ice cream shop L’Eivissenca (Pl. Eivissa, 3; T. 93 429 66 52). And it’s not the ice creams, although they’re excellent, or the orxata, it’s the granissats de pomada, ice slushies made with Xoriguer gin from Menorca and old-fashioned lemonade. To keep your feet on the ground, there’s nothing quite like the sandwiches at Louise Se Va (Pl. Eivissa, 11; T. 93 407 20 33), a rock ‘n’ roll cafè whose owner tried to expand the district’s nightlife with a disco of the same name, but which eventually came to nothing. A 22 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com pity, they tell us at Duplex (Pl. Bacardí, 8; T. 93 125 30 60). Oscar, the man behind the bar, says the disco made Horta nights much livelier. Now there are many who don’t even stay local for an early drink. Their loss. Duplex has beers from around the world and excellent gin & tonics, with Galician Nordés top choice. The real experts in mixed drinks of all kinds, however, are to be found at Teràpia (Horta, 4; T. 93 328 22 48). It’s only a few yards from Samba Brasil (Pl. Santes Creus, 20; T. 93 420 66 53). The day I went, I witnessed, shortly after 11pm, a troupe of samba students looking happier than Ronaldinho in post-goal ecstasy. And I enjoyed a capirinha neither too sweet nor too bitter. Perfect. But it’s true, a disco for everyone is missing. More of a sweaty basement than a cool club. A small-town affair, playing summer hits from 20 years ago, various IGPGTCVKQPUUJCTKPIVJGFCPEGƂQQTCPFC whisper in the air to remind you that round here, everyone knows everything about everyone. The Asian new wave Manohra, a Thai place to eat street food and other typical dishes in a classy joint ASIAN CUISINE IS WELL ESTABLISHED IN BARCELONA, BUT A STEADY FLOW OF TOP-NOTCH NEW RESTAURANTS MEANS WE NEED TO KEEP OUR EYES ON IT SO AS TO NOT MISS OUT. AND IT’S NO FLEETING FASHION: THESE DAYS EVEN SOME CATALAN GRANNIES KNOW THEIR RAMEN FROM THEIR YAKISOBA. By Ricard Martín Photos Ivan Giménez Mr. China REAL CHINESE Your best bet here is to forget the disappointing sushi and the set lunch menu – irrelevant enticements for casual passers-by. This is a real Chinese restaurant, where the staff are ultrafriendly but barely speak Spanish, and where it’s worth immersing yourself in the seriously comprehensive menu to sample specialities [QWYQPoVƁPFGNUGYJGTGKP$%0(QTGZCORNG CPWVTKVKQWUXGIGVCDNGUQWRYKVJUJGNNƁUJ dumplings stuffed with spicy pork, or BeijingUV[NGPQQFNGUKPCDGGHUCWEGOKZGFYKVJUKZ raw vegetables. If you’re a fan of authentic Chinese cooking, this is the place for you. Around €12 Muntaner, 10 ⓣ 93 328 39 78 Un Capítol de Vietnam FRIENDLY NEIGHBOURHOOD HAUTE CUISINE In contrast to the scorching heat of some SouthEastern Asian food, Vietnamese cuisine is fresh and light, with plenty of subtle steamed dishes. While the cuisine may be less well-known than Chinese or Thai, a visit to Un Capítol de Vietnam will nevertheless strike some familiar notes. Opened in 1987 by husband and wife team Cun Pau and Xoi Kiu – refugees from the war with 24 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Cambodia – it has a friendly neighbourhood feel YKVJUQOGJKIJENCUUVQWEJGU[GUVJG[JCXGCNN the street food classics – nems, spring rolls – but also an arsenal of dishes for the adventurous such as a stew with caramelised pork belly, which is not unlike the Catalan capipota (calf’s head and feet). €20-€25 Nàpols, 266 ⓣ 93 459 39 16 www.capitol3bcn.com Kiku JAPANESE IN THE BARRIO CHINO Barcelona’s interior designers have committed UQOCP[CVTQEKVKGUKPVJGPCOGQHƁPGFKPKPI it’s a pleasant surprise to see one of them in charge of a working kitchen. This is the situation at Kiku, a new izakaya-style tavern VJCVCFLQKPU$CT4CXCN.GVKEKC5QNGTKUCPGZRGTV KPDQVJFKUEKRNKPGUUJGITCFWCVGFHTQOVJG Elisava design school, and spent eight years living in Japan and learning to cook. At Kiku she sources local produce to offer a dining GZRGTKGPEG[QWYQPoVƁPFCP[YJGTGGNUGKPVJG Raval – all the classic izakaya dishes, from edamame and tofu dishes to yakisoba and gyoza, as well as sushi. Around €20-€25. Set lunch menu: €16 Hospital, 104 ⓣ 93 329 82 77 HISAKO Don’t call it fusion – at Hisako they get creative with the elegance of Japanese cooking MANOHRA BARCELONA ASIAN FOR BEGINNERS Find sushi a tad expensive? If so, it’s worth knowing that Taka, the chef at the fabulous La Cuina de l’Uribou, has just opened SushiBou (Poeta Cabanyes, 6), where he serves up topquality sushi at €3 for a plate of two nigiri. Admittedly, at this price you won’t get blueƁn belly, but you will get exquisite salmon, gilt head bream or tuna. For fantastic value for money, check out Chen Ji (Alí Bei, 65), popular with workers at the many Chinese garment wholesalers on C/Trafalgar, where a bowl of pork rib soup and a plate of dim sum will only set you back €10. At the other end of the spectrum, Koy Shunka (Sagristans, 5) is one of the world’s great Japanese restaurants, and the Ɓrst in Barcelona to receive a Michelin star. Hisako IMPERIAL GRANDMOTHER Make a note of the name, because this new restaurant looks set to become a cult classic. 'TPGUV&CK(KDNC6CMCJCUJKs*KUCMQYCUJKU grandmother’s name – has opened an izakaya KPVJG'KZCORNG*GLQKPGFHQTEGUYKVJ,WP (WMW[COCC[QWPIEJGHHTQO*KTQUJKOCYJQ had worked at Carme Ruscalleda’s Michelinstarred Sant Pau and who swore that he’d never EQQM,CRCPGUGHQQFCICKP6JKURCTCFQZJCU given rise to a menu full of surprises, such as the breaded olives stuffed with minced beef CPFQPKQPUCPFVJGURGEVCEWNCTFKUJQHƁXG brochettes. They’re not happy with the fusion NCDGNNGVoULWUVUC[[QWoNNƁPF,CRCPGUG perfectionism applied to Catalan ingredients with great creativity. €20-€25. Set lunch menu €16 Londres, 91 ⓣ 629 446 503 Yubari CREATIVE JAPANESE Yubari – named after the Japanese Yubari ECPVCNQWRGVJGOQUVGZRGPUKXGOGNQPKPVJG YQTNFsEGTVCKPN[OCMGUCUVTKMKPIƁTUV impression, with its high-design interior and fake aquarium (it’s actually a video mural). As for the food, it’s a festival of Japanese creativity with QPGHQQVƁTON[KPVJG9GUV6T[VJGUCNVEQFYKVJ DNCEMOKUQQTVJGƁNGVUVGCMYKVJCHCMGTKUQVVQ made from soba noodles – the sushi is also impeccable. What makes it unique in Barcelona is the Kio Bar, where the bartender works with the pastry chef to pair cocktails and desserts. Around €70 Diagonal, 339, bis ⓣ 93 348 40 73 www.yubarirestaurant.com Manohra EASY-GOING CLASS 6JCKEWKUKPGOGCPUDQVJDCPSWGVUƁVHQTCMKPI and street food, and the recently opened Manohra is a master of both, with high stools and tables to one side, and to the other a raised area where diners lounge on princely cushions. This is Joan Castells and Chenita Ledovitse’s second venture, and it hews close to the style of Thai food that has proved a success with discerning Barcelona diners. Manohra serves traditional Thai food, as FGƁPGFD[.GFQXKVUGn+VCNYC[UJCUVQDCNCPEG spicy, sweet, savoury and sweet-and-sour.’ Their green papaya salad with spicy lime dressing will UGVWPGZRGEVGF\QPGUQH[QWTRCNCVGVKPINKPI €20-€25 Muntaner, 185 ⓣ 93 105 72 24 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 25 FOOD TRUCKS IN BARCELONA ‘START HER UP!’ I t was only last year that the food truck touched down in Barcelona, and already, not even halfway through 2015, it seems destined to DGEQOGCPKPUVKVWVKQP+VoUFGƁPKVGN[PQVCƂCUJKPVJGRCPLWUVNQQMCV VJGPWODGTUVJCVVWTPGFWRHQTCTGEGPVGFKVKQPQHVJGOQPVJN[2CNQ Alto Market, where meals on wheels are a big attraction, with 12,000 XKUKVQTUGNDQYKPIVJGKTYC[VQCRWNNGFRQTMDWP+PVGTOUQHTGIWNCVKQPU however, there’s a vacuum. Article 39 of the city ordinance on the use of RWDNKEVJQTQWIJHCTGUƂCVN[RTQJKDKVUUVTGGVXGPFKPI4CKOQPF$NCUK%KV[ %QWPEKNNQTHQT%QOOGTEGCTIWGUVJCVVJGEKV[EQPUKFGTUHQQFVTWEMUVQ DGnCEQORNGOGPVCT[CEVKXKV[RGTOKVVGFQPN[KPGZEGRVKQPCNECUGUUWEJ as fairs or festivals’. He says the legislation is so strict because a RTQNKHGTCVKQPQHVGORQTCT[UVCNNUYQWNFDGnFGVTKOGPVCNVQVJGDTKEMUCPF mortar businesses that give a district cohesiveness’. It’s a view radically QRRQUGFVQVJCVQHEGNGDTKV[EJGH%CTNGU#DGNNCPYJQJCULWUVRWORGF WRVJGV[TGUCPFITGCUGFVJGCZNGUQHJKUIQWTOGVUCPFYKEJVTWEM Yango. The chef reminds us that in Montreal – where he has a branch of JKUTGUVCWTCPV6CRCUsVYQ[GCTUCIQVJGTGYGTGPQTGIWNCVKQPU$WV when they saw there was a demand, the trend was embraced. He RTGFKEVUVJCVYKNNJCRRGPJGTGDWVKVYQPoVDGGCU[nDGECWUGKP /QPVTGCN[QWFQPoVƁPFCDCTQTCECHÅQPGXGT[EQTPGTUQVJG[oNNJCXGVQ DGXGT[ECTGHWNVQCXQKFWPHCKTEQORGVKVKQPo$NCUKFKUOKUUGUVJG RQUUKDKNKV[QHCEJCPIGKPVJGNCYVJCVYQWNFQRGPVJGYC[HQTOQDKNG restaurants. But when asked if it would make sense to legalise them in underused industrial zones, where there are no eateries, he admits, ‘It’s CPKPVGTGUVKPIUWIIGUVKQPYJKEJEQWNFDGEQPUKFGTGFHQTXGT[URGEKƁE CTGCUCUCEQORNGOGPVCT[FCKN[UGTXKEGo By Ricard Martín SKYE COFFEE @skyecoffeeco This ultracool 1972 Citröen coffee truck lives a pampered lifestyle: it has its own pied-à-terre from Monday to Friday, 9am-1.30pm, in the designer loft offices of Castel Veciana architects (Pamplona, 88). The beyond-blackness of a perfect coffee – just roasted, with a dash of fresh milk, prepared by a qualified barista on the finest equipment – will leave you trembling with pleasure. One warning: if you ask for a decaf they’ll laugh you out of town. FOR OR AGAINST? YES! ‘One argument against them is that in Spain, people generally like sit round a table to eat. And it’s true. However this style of eating isn’t setting out to supplant traditions, but to complement them. There are other options that weren’t common 30 years ago that now, thankfully, we’ve made our own: from shorter mealtimes to different kinds of food. It’s true that food trucks don’t make sense in all places and at all times, especially not in the Eixample, but they’re definitely valid if they allow 26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com you to reach areas and times of day that conventional businesses can’t cover. Besides, we do have a strong culture of eating out on the street – all the gastronomic traditions of the festa major.’ –Xavier Boneta (co-director of Van Van Mercat). EL PETIT BANGKOK facebook.com/ElPetitBangkok LA CREPERIE DE MARIÖNE @creperiemarione Thai cuisine has one of the strongest street food traditions in the world: it’s only logical that Daniel Pérez, co-owner of the outstanding El Petit Bangkok, should put his kitchen on wheels. The repertoire of this colourful little truck might seem short: just a classic pad thai (noodles, shrimp, tamarind, peanuts) and two curries, one mild and one spicy. But freshly cooked in the van by expert Thai chefs, they’ll bowl you over. Urban pseudo-hipsters, doff your hats to La Creperie de Mariöne. Mariona Barceló, a vintage Volkswagen fanatic, opened her crêperie-on-wheels in 2010, with ‘km 0’ products. The doyenne of Catalan food trucks now has a fleet of seven: five creperies, one serving ice cream and drinks, and one pizzas. And forget the standard : they offer innovative combos like their goats cheese crêpe with fig jam. Also available for weddings! CARAVAN MADE ROOFTOP SMOKEHOUSE @caravan_made A heavyweight on the scene, and not because their truck is especially big. A year ago, chef Javi Ruz – who trained with the world’s best at El Celler de Can Roca – and pastry chef and community manager Sílvia Cabra partnered up to serve the kind of sandwiches you’d never find at a traditional Spanish fairground. Locally sourced produce, organic Vienna buns, and the ridiculously delicious pulled pork and ginger roll, with plum conserve and grated celery. Their van has a sister, Caravan Vermut. ‘Food trucks make sense in the kind of urban environment you find in the USA, where you might have to go miles to find a restaurant. And where people only have 20 minutes to eat. Obviously, if the food’s good, maybe even of interest in its own right, it’s better than McDonald’s. But I can’t imagine it here. Our own homegrown food trucks have been around forever, at funfairs and festivals. Now they want them everywhere? Where? In the Eixample, where there’s a bar serving food every five metres? rooftopsmokehouse.com If you belong to that part of the population that can’t get enough of more-ish smoked food, this is the truck for you. Rooftop Smokehouse started last year as a pop-up restaurant, and they’ve since taken their food on the road in a woodpanelled truck. They travel with a great range of produce and a Penedès oak wine barrel in which fish, octopus and duck breast take on wonderful woody flavours. Pastrami, smoked for 12 hours, with sauerkraut and horseradish sauce... Mmmm. You can cook reasonably good food in a truck, but it’s not going to be the same as a restaurant. It’s people chasing a trend, who feel the restaurant has had its day. It doesn’t fit with our culture – we can’t import everything.’ –Philippe Regol (food critic) NO! Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 27 You have one hour LOGIC AND WIT ARE CRUCIAL TO SUCCEED AT LIVE ESCAPE TEAM GAMES WHERE YOU’RE LOCKED IN A ROOM AND HAVE 60 MINUTES TO SOLVE THE CLUES THAT REVEAL HOW TO GET OUT. IN BARCELONA, YOU’LL FIND HALF A DOZEN SUCH PLACES, ALL WHERE LANGUAGE IS NO BARRIER TO HAVING FUN. By Montserrat Rossell ROOMIN 4QQOKPYCUETGCVGFD[CHCPQHƁNOPQKT CPFCFFKEVQHQPNKPGICOGUYJGTGVJG QDLGEVKXGKUVQGUECRGCXKTVWCNTQQOCHVGT UJGNQUVJGTLQDCPFFGEKFGFVQVCMGCPGY FKTGEVKQPKPNKHG6JGCEVKQPJGTGKUUGVKPC OCƁCFGPCPF[QWoNNDGJGNRGF KH PGEGUUCT[HTQOVJGGZVGTKQTD[CIWKFG WUKPICYCNMKGVCNMKG6JGFKHƁEWNV[QHVJG ICOGKUCFCRVGFQPVJGIQCEEQTFKPIVQ RNC[GTUonNGXGNQHHTWUVTCVKQPQTCPZKGV[o $GYCTGHCNUGENWGUCPFEQPEGPVTCVGJCTF €44/team Robí, 10 (Gràcia) YYYTQQOKPGU ESCAPA SI PUEDES #V'UECRC5K2WGFGU 'UECRG+H;QW%CP VJG[oTGNQQMKPIHQTGUECRCNQIKUVUCU CWFCEKQWUCU+PFKCPC,QPGUVQVCMGRCTVKP CPCRRCTGPVOKUUKQPKORQUUKDNGFGCNYKVJ CXKTWUVJCVVJTGCVGPUVJGGPVKTGJWOCP RQRWNCVKQPYJGPVJGQPN[RGTUQPYJQECP OCMGCP[UGPUGQHYJCVoUIQKPIQPKUC TGPQYPGFCTEJCGQNQIKUVYJQoULWUV FKUCRRGCTGF)CVJGT[QWTVGCOCPFJGCF VQJKUCRCTVOGPVVQNQQMHQTENWGU €40-45/team Grassot, 97 (Gràcia) YYYGUECRCUKRWGFGUEQO CRONOLOGIC *GTGKVoUPQVCSWGUVKQPQHYJGTG[QWJCXGVQ GUECRGHTQODWVYJGP;QWoNNVTCXGNVJTQWIJ VKOGQPDQCTFCOCEJKPGVJCVDGCTUC PQVCDNGTGUGODNCPEGVQ&QEVQT9JQoU 6#4&+5%TQPQNQIKEYGTGVJGƁTUVTQQO GUECRGEQORCP[VQKPVTQFWEGCTGCNITCRJKE CFXGPVWTGsCHVGTDTGCMKPIVJTQWIJVJGVKOG URCEGEQPVKPWWO[QWYQPoVDGCDNGVQ TGVWTPVQVJGRTGUGPVWPNGUU[QWEQORNGVG VJGOKUUKQP#PGZEGNNGPVKPVTQFWEVKQPVQ TQQOGUECRGHQTUEKƁFGXQVGGU €40/team Av. Meridiana, 129 (El Clot) YYYETQPQNQIKEGU PARAPARK 6JGDTCPFDGJKPFVJGEWTTGPV'WTQRGCP TQQOGUECRGDQQOVJKU*WPICTKCP HTCPEJKUGVTKGUVQTGRTQFWEGVJGEQPEGRVQH DGKPInKPVJG\QPGoYKVJVYQICOGNGXGNU 28 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com n*CDKVCENGoCPFn'ZRGTKOGPVPWODGT o#PFVJCVoUCNNYGoTGCNNQYGFVQVGNN[QW 5KPEGVJG[CRRGCTGFKP$CTEGNQPCKP CTQWPFRGQRNGJCXGIQVCP CFTGPCNKPGDW\\HTQOVJGKTICOGUYJKEJ OCMGUHQTYJCVVJG[ECNNCnRQUKVKXG RU[EJQNQIKECNGZRGTKGPEGosCPFQPGVJCVKU JKIJN[CFFKEVKXG €47/team Rei Martí, 33 (Hostafrancs) Valladolid, 25 (Sants) YYYRCTCRCTMGU ESCAPE HUNT $CTEGNQPCoUPGYGUVGUECRGICOGsKV QRGPGFKP/CTEJsJCUCNTGCF[RTQXGFC DKIJKVKPEKVKGUHTQO$CPIMQMVQ$TWUUGNU 6JGICOGJCUDGGPCFCRVGFVQ$CTEGNQPC YKVJVJGOGUQHXCORKTGU)CWFÉCPF EJCTOKPIN[VJGEKV[UGYGTU)TQWRUQHVYQ VQUKZECPRNC[CPFKH[QWYCPVVQCFFCP GZVTCEQORGVKVKXGGFIGVQVJGICOGVYQ VGCOUECPHCEGQHHVQUGGYJKEJQPGIGVU QWVQHVJGKTTQQOƁTUV From €20/person Nàpols, 255 baixos (Eixample Dret) JVVRDCTEGNQPCGUECRGJWPVEQO Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 29 Shopping & Style VELOCIUTAT Sant Antoni renaissance VELOCIUTAT The intersection of C/Parlament and C/Viladomat has become a golden triangle of cool. By Eugènia Sendra Sant Antoni is no longer just a place to go for a late-afternoon vermouth: shops new and old on Parlament and Viladomat are staking a claim. Small businesses that are big on charm, and showrooms for original art and design complement the neighbourhood’s bars and eateries, contributing to its ongoing renaissance: the latest news is VJCVVJG[oXGHQTOGFCPQHƁEKCN association, and will soon start promoting the area in earnest. One of the first of the new wave of businesses to open in Sant Antoni, almost three years ago, was Valnot (Viladomat, 30). Restorer David Castellet was looking for a premises for his workshop, and ended up in an elongated space with a traditional mezzanine floor, which for the previous 30 years had been used by a varnisher, and then a violin-maker. As he was settling in, he discovered that El Recibidor (Viladomat, 9) was opening a few doors down the street: a store and showroom with a judicious selection of Scandinavian and 1UNIK vintage furniture. They don’t step on each other’s toes: each has their own customers and their own style of working, says Castellet, who is a huge fan of the decorative rarities he picks up at the city’s markets; in furniture, he always looks for the original patina, the bare wood. He also designs his own pieces, such as sofas made from old car seats, and upstairs he offers courses for those who want to restore family heirlooms to their former glory. At 1Unik (Parlament, 13), the order of the day is originality, and the philosophy is upcycling: rescuing, restoring and reusing discarded objects. Owner Clara Calvo makes use of anything she 30 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com finds, from old colanders to an early 20th-century electric iron, wooden doors and windows, ceramic door handles and lamp bases. Furniture and lamps assembled from assorted parts – she calls them her Frankenstein’s monsters, and she also makes them to order – sit side by side with more conventional pieces, dreamt up by this former architect who is determined to single-handedly breathe new life into the undervalued word craftsmanship. Dressing the family Kids are part of the neighbourhood’s potential client base, as evidenced by Petit Gegant Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] @eugeniasendra CULTURE HOTSPOTS LA CALDERS A lively bookshop (Passatge Pere Calders, 9) with a fantastic selection of authors and titles, as well as a busy programme of book launches, recitals and talks. facebook.com/lacalders TRAIT STORE VALNOT (Parlament, 6) and newcomer Big Family Kids (Parlament, 25). The latter is run by ex–tattoo artist Laia Picó, who offers a range of clothes and accessories that are fun (and at least a little rock ’n’ roll), from local labels and handmade producers, at affordable prices. Her top sellers are the Lego tableware (compatible with Lego blocks), soft toys from French label The Déglingos, and music-themed babygrows from Cantabalarana. There are also plenty of options for the grown-ups. Trait Store (Parlament, 28) is a concept store run by two fans of gadgets and fashion who met while working at Apple. For spring this year, Gabriel Ortiz and João Novaes picked Nordic labels with clean lines for men, and Spanish designers who pay close attention to fabrics and design, such as Diarte and Paloma Wool, for women. They have sneakers from Vans, Reebok and Converse, sunglasses from Danish label Han Kjøbenhavn, and Sandqvist backpacks, rounding out a catalogue of products that includes beard gels (from Oak Beard Wash), watches and wireless speakers from Nixon, magazines like Misery Connoisseur, and Berlin-based jewellery line Haute Kuki & Die Markise. PHOTOGRAPHY: MARIA DIAS BIG FAMILY KIDS Trait Store draws inspiration from Voo, the legendary Berlin fashion and design store, and Berlin was also the birthplace of Velociutat (Viladomat, 14), Carles Fernández’s classic bike restoration project. He has collectors’ pieces, such as a carbon fibre Colnago that competed in 1992, and a Raleigh ridden to victory in the Tour de France in 1977. Fernández repairs all kinds of bikes, with a special interest in vintage French and German models. Cycling togs from Le Coq, helmets from Abus and vintage saddles from San Marino share wall space in his workshop, which is presided over by the iconic photo of Coppi and Bartali. ESCALERA DE INCENDIOS A ‘cultural laboratory’ (Parlament, 26) that has been pushing fresh ideas and new talents since it opened in 2012. Their stable of new artists is worth keeping track of. escaleradeincendios.com [’GALERI] An art and design showroom and store (Viladomat, 27), that prides itself on supporting and promoting the work of the city’s emerging creators. www.galeribcn.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 31 Shopping & Style Your inspiration Vincent Ferré and César Segarra celebrate creative local souls with Hipsters from 5RCKPYJKEJJCULWUVOCTMGFKVUƁTUVCPPKXGTUCT[$[Eugènia Sendra FRAGILITY Ferré talks about individuality, insecurities and revealing personalities such as Susan Sontag, the second part of whose diaries were published in 2013 (Penguin). PRIVACY HfS sends out weekly dispatches about the careers of different creatives, accompanied by photos of still lifes that inspire them (above, taken from one on Maria Herreros). GET THE LOOK! A FRIENDLY PARADISE The pair admire the creations of Krizia Robustella and company. KR Store (Sant Pere Més Alt, 50). THE MEANING OF CLOTHES Clothes express themselves silently, says Ferré, a fan of second-hand. Humana (Roger de Llúria, 9). TALENT They’re obsessed with the new generation of creatives: ‘they’re the way’, say Segarra and Ferré. The duo highlight photographer Coco Capitán, and designer Guillem Rodríguez. MARIA DIAS Their story starts in Fotolog, continues at Benicàssim, and was forged once and for all in the fashion sector, which absorbed them without a backward glance. Journalist Vincent Ferré (pictured, left), editor of i-D Spain, and photographer César Segarra (pictured, right), who has shot campaigns for Zara and muro.exe, are friends and digital creatures who admire each other’s work. Which is how they came to take a leap of faith and launch Hipsters from Spain (HfS), a project that has been running for just over a year, to TCKUGVJGRTQƁNGQHWPKSWGVCNGPVGF creatives from across Spain. They’ve visited the home of architect Benedetta Tagliabue, viewed the biggest collection of Art Toyz, owned by Juan Redón, and photographed and chatted with DJs, bloggers and designers. This exercise in curating, which they do philanthropically, has started to open doors for them. ‘The only thing that’s not serious about it is the name’, say the pair, who pose, speak and act in such a way that suggests, just maybe, they want to be hip too. hipstersfromspain.com SALE SAMPLES A playful palette SECOND LIFE Flowers, both natural and dried, converted into rings, decorative pieces for the home and delicate hair bands are the speciality of Suite Room. You’ll find their shop in the Born district, where they sell their creations alongside products from local florist Gang and the Wool, and scarves from Italy and India. Flassaders, 25. BACKPACKERS UNITE Barcelona rucksack brand Lori is winning fans across the world, from Australia to Germany and the USA. While creator Marián Pérez originally made her signature bags just for children (and a few one-offs specially made for select grown-ups), she is now preparing a collection for adults. You can spot her products a mile off, thanks to the colourful, pretty material she uses, and their appealing shapes. www.loribarcelona.com SPORTY SOCKS With the arrival of Happy Socks in Barcelona, daily footwear is no longer a boring subject. But what about sports fans? Will they have to stick to classic white socks? Definitely not. The Athletic range combines comfort and colour, including stripes, spots, ethnic designs and more. Run to get your hands on a pair or two. Argenteria, 59. 32 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com CLOSING THE GAP The latest international fashion company to land in Barcelona is GAP, which has set itself up on the fourth floor of the El Corte Inglés department store on the corner of Plaça Catalunya and La Rambla. As well as a range of clothes from the classic US brand, you’ll find many other top names such as Tommy Hilfiger, New Balance and the in-house Sfera label. Plaça Catalunya, 23. Shopping & Style Put the rest in the shade Acetate frames, quality lenses and European design unite in the latest sunglasses – essential for enjoying BCN’s outdoor lifestyle. By Eugènia Sendra At Wilde (Avinyó, 21 & Joaquín Costa, 2) they stock both vintage glasses and their own creations. RETRO-FUTURISTIC BICOLOUR GLAM STANDOUT SHADES BACK TO THE ’70S These ‘original’ vintage glasses capture the spirit of Courrèges. €95.20. Le Swing Vintage. Rec, 16. GINGER LOOK The combination of acetates in this Kerbs design goes beyond elegant. €180. Alfred Kerbs. Avinyó, 21. WILD TIMES Etnia Barcelona’s Wild Love Africa collection have animal magic. €169. Santa Eulalia. Pg. de Gràcia, 93. LIMITED EDITION They have a ’30s air but were created by Kenzo Takada for Masunaga. €490. Les Lunettes. Pg. de Gràcia, 53. BETWEEN THE LINES The stripes and colours create a carefree luxe design from Illesteva. €268. DM Optics. Gran de Gràcia, 6. BELGIAN TRADITION Komono opts for quality finishes and trendy colours. €89.95. 12 Pulgadas. Duran i Bas, 1. AVANT-GARDE This extreme example of retro-futurism is for sophisticates only. €270. Wilde. Joaquín Costa, 2. STAR POWER A hint of colour + a classic shape = top Sheriff&Cherry shades. €125. Studiostore. Comerç, 17. PURPLE SUN BCN company Palens specialises in artisan wooden frames. €125. B-Lab. Ample, 9. Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 33 Things to Do Edited by Maria Junyent [email protected] @junyjuliol Drawn together CONTINUARÀ COMICS This two-storey temple to the comic is a Barcelona classic. The ground floor is dedicated to Spanish and European comics along with essential merch for fans who need figurines to feed their habit (pictured top and bottom right). The first floor focuses on Japan and the States, as well as a space dedicated to vintage US comics with editions that date from the ’20s to the ’80s. Via Laietana, 29 (Gòtic). www.continuara.org NORMA COMICS It doesn’t matter if you grew up worshipping Stan Lee or Frank Miller, following the sagas of Godzilla or Star Wars, or if you can argue till you’re blue in the face over the work of Art Spiegelman, Daniel Clowes or Jacques Tardi. Norma is a comic aficionado’s MARIA DIAS SCOTT CHASSEROT MARIA DIAS Barcelona loves comics. The city is stuffed full of places to get your hands on vintage and new graphic novels, comics and related paraphernalia. By Liz Claverí paradise, whichever genre, character or artist you’re devoted to (pictured above left). There’s a floor aimed at cinephiles, and the window displays aren’t afraid to put Jack Skellington right next to Spriou. Holy battle of good versus evil! Pg. de Sant Joan, 9 (Eixample Dret). www.normacomics.com FATBOTTOM Your eyes will stand out on stalks as you enter this small cave packed with stories about bears hunting salmon and the latest graphic novels from the hottest authors. It features everything from classic comic books to pure artistic illustration (pictured above centre). Lluna, 10 (Raval). www. fatbottombooks.com UNIVERSAL COMICS For over 15 years, Universal has been dedicated to the art of the comic, whether it’s Japanese manga, French comics or American graphic novels. They also have a big section of second-hand items, including one-of-a-kind Marvel and DC Comics gems. Ronda Sant Antoni, 9 (Sant Antoni). www. universal-comics.com better: he doesn’t make small talk. After perusing for half an hour, all you have to do is pay in civilised silence before carrying off your newly purchased bundle of joy. Just as it should be. Marià Aguilló, 82 (Poblenou). MR BROWN STORE From the street it looks like one of those video shops with the automated rental machines. But inside it’s a large space all about comics, new and second-hand, with a preference for US stories of terror and superheroes. The owner has the power to mind-meld with his clients, finding the exact books that suit their taste, and even 34 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com BATMAN IN BARCELONA (2009)/ DC COMICS Getting into gear Formula 1 is back in town this month as the likes of Alonso, Hamilton and Vettel roar up for the Spanish Grand Prix. By Mitchell Haines In the beginning This year’s event will be the 45th 5RCPKUJ)TCPF2TKZ6JGƁTUVYCU staged in 1951 and saw Juan /CPWGN(CPIKQENCKOVJGƁTUVQH ƁXGVKVNGUQPCPWTDCPEKTEWKVVJCV took in the streets of the Pedralbes neighbourhood. The route started on Avenida del Generalísimo Francisco Franco (now Avinguda Diagonal) and it featured just six corners. the sport. Son of an English ƁUJGTOCPJGDGICPJKUVJKTF marriage three years ago and is believed to be worth some US$3.8 billion (with today’s exchange rates, that’s about €3.5 billion to you and me). Can you hear the drums, Fernando? Fernando Alonso delighted the home crowd with wins in 2006 CPFsVJGƁTUVHQT Renault and the second for Ferrari; the latter remains his most recent race victory in any Grand Prix. However, no driver has won in Montmeló more times than Michael Schumacher, who made it six between 1995 and 2004. Mika Häkkinen is next up on three, while the only others to win there more than once are Nigel Mansell and Kimi Räikkönen. Locations, locations After Pedralbes and Montjuïc in Barcelona, Jarama near Madrid and Jerez de la Frontera in #PFCNWUKCVJGƁHVJNQECVKQP that’s hosted the Spanish GP is the Circuit de BarcelonaCatalunya near the town of Montmeló on the outskirts of Barcelona – home to the race GXGT[[GCTUKPEG+PVJGƁTUV event, Nigel Mansell and Ayrton Senna famously banged wheels CUURCTMUƂGYKPYJCVYQWNF become one of F1’s all-time greatest television moments. Watch out for drivers in the city! Practically the entire F1 grid will be staying in Barcelona city from midweek until race day. McLaren drivers Alonso and Jenson Button could well be spotted around the Hilton Hotel in Diagonal Mar, while the Fairmont Rey Juan Carlos I at the other end of Av. Diagonal is also a favourite. The silver-haired 84-year-old Bernie Ecclestone started off as a driver, later became a team manager and then pioneered the television production of F1 to control all commercial rights to SWINGYOURPICS VINTAGE MARKETS DEMANOENMANO Itinerant monthly market that’s on for a whole weekend, combining second-hand and vintage products with new artistic works. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). May 2-3, 11am-9pm. www.demanoenmano.org THE BOY MARKET One for the men (and women who like a masculine look), this is the brother event of Brick Lane BCN, one of the city’s first vintage markets. See facebook.com/ theboymarket for date and venue info. FLEA MARKET Buy or exchange quality second-hand books, music, clothes and accessories at this event aiming to rein in excessive consumption. Plaça Blanquerna. May 10, 11am-7pm. www.fleamarketbcn.com FABULOUS MARKET BCN Inaugurated in 2012 by two women, one French and the other Italian, Fabulous brings together vintage goods and designer pieces. Date tbc. See Fabulous Market BCN on Facebook for details. Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 35 Things to Do Day by day Information and sales: Tourist Information Points and www.visitbarcelona.com FREE This activity is free * The dates of league matches may be moved forward or back one day, depending on TV broadcast schedules Friday 1 Food and drink Biergarten. Beer festival Trad German festival with competitions, frankfurters, pretzels and plenty of beer. Main square Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). May 1-2 noon-2am; May 3 noon-5pm. Cinema D’A International Festival Annual event dedicated to auteur cinema from around the world. Various venues including CCCB and Filmoteca de Catalunya. Until May 3. www.cinemadautor.cat Tour Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Guided tours to the top of this historic church for great city views. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Mon-Fri 12pm to 5pm (every hour, last entry 4pm). Sat, Sun, public holidays 11am to 5pm (every hour, last entry 4pm).€10 (general). €8 (reduced). Booking: www.riostabarcelona.com. Torre Bellesguard | Tours of Gaudí’s modernista castle on the slopes of Tibidabo. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). English: Wed to Sun 11am. €16. €12.80 (reduced) Secret Basilica del Pi Night-time visits to the 14th-century Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). May 1, 2, 7, 8, 9, 14, 15, 21, 22, 23, 28, 29 and 30. Thu, Fri 9.20pm (English). Sat 9.50pm (English). €22 (general). €9 (in advance). adsentiabarcelona. com, www.bcnshop.com Kids To space and back 3D projection shows how space technology is now part of daily life. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26) M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Daily 10am-8pm. Activity included in entry fee. Strategies for living beings Games and models show how shapes, colours and behaviour help living creatures survive. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). May 1-Jun 21. See web for times: cosmocaixa. com/agenda. €4. From 5 years. Sports BCN Beach Soccer Cup 2015 Teams from eight top international clubs including Barça compete in this knockout tournament. May 1-3. Organised by Beach Soccer Worldwide. beachsoccer.com 47th BCN International Polo Tournament Six teams take part in a sporting and social event that matches players’ skill with the power of their horses. May 1-3. Organised by Reial Club de Polo. www.rcpolo.com Saturday 2 Kids Interactive visit to ‘Toca, Toca’ Find out how to protect the different ecosystems of our planet. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun, public hols 10am-8pm. €4. See web for info: cosmocaixa.com/agenda. Follow in the footsteps of the Triceratops Discover all about the three-horned, 10-tonne beast and other dinos. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun, public hols 10am-8pm. €2. See web for info: cosmocaixa.com/agenda Human towers FREE Castellers at Maremagnum Human towers and pillars at waterside shopping centre. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). Every Sat in May. 6.30pm. Tour Tibidabo theme park | Enjoy a range of activities at Barcelona’s historical theme park. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia blau or bus 196. Sat, Sun noon-8pm, 9pm (closing time varies). tibidabo.cat House-museum Casa Bloc Workers’ apartment block, built between 1932 and 1936, that is an icon of rationalist architecture. (C/ d’Almirall Pròixida, 1-3-5). M: Torras i Bages (L1). Sat 11am, 12.30pm. €3 (advance booking necessary). Info and booking: www.museudeldisseny.cat Sant Pau modernista monument| Once a working hospital, this network of pavilions was designed by Lluís Domenech i Montaner. (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau – Dos de Maig (L5). Tours in various languages; consult for schedule. Mon-Fri 10.30am-1pm. Sat, Sun, public holidays 10.30am1.30pm. €14. €9.80 (reduced). Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia Take a trip on a beautifully restored three-masted schooner. Maritime Museum (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). Sat 9.30am. €12 adults. €6 kids. Sunday 3 Human towers FREE Castellers at Maremagnum Human towers and pillars at waterside shopping centre. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). Every Sun in May, noon. 36 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Tour FREE Baluard Gardens Visit renovated gardens tucked behind the only remaining gateway of the city’s medieval walls. (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). 1st and 3rd Sun 11am-2pm. FREE Guided tour of Poblenou Cemetery Explore one of Barcelona’s historical cemeteries. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). 1st and 3rd Sun 10.30am (Catalan) & 12.30pm (Spanish). FREE Visit CCCB rooftop terrace See Barcelona from the top of this city centre building. (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3). First Sunday of the month Football * League fixture. RCD Espanyol – Rayo Vallecano Espanyol face the Madrid side. Date and time TBC. More info: www. rcdespanyol.com. Estadi Cornellà El Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100. Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà Riera Kids Family planetarium Find out how sailors use stars and planets to navigate. Maritime Museum (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). 11.30am, 12.45pm. €4, €2.50 kids. Monday 4 Family al fresco FREE Celebrating 25 years of the Catalonia Formula 1 Special events to mark Catalonia’s 25th F1 Grand Prix. Various venues including Pg. de Gràcia. May 4-10. Tour Santa Maria del Mar rooftop See Fri 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Things to Do Tuesday 5 Human towers Castellers practice session Gràcia’s Colla Castellera rehearse their spectacular skills. Can Musons (Alzina, 7). M: Joanic (L4). 8pm. Kids Tour Tour of Liceu opera house Discover Barcelona’s glorious opera house, carefully restored CHVGTCFGXCUVCVKPIƁTGKP (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. €14. Santa Maria del Mar rooftop See Fri 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Strategies for living beings See Fri 1. (CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26) M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Friday 8 Human towers Wednesday 6 Tour Castellers practice session See Tue 5. Can Musons (Alzina, 7). M: Joanic (L4). The Secret Pedrera Delve into the corners of Gaudí’s building with this night-time tour. (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC). WedSat 7pm-10.30pm. €30. Palau de la Música Tour this emblematic building of Catalan modernisme. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Daily tours 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 (reduced). Sant Pau modernista monument| See Sat 2. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). Torre Bellesguard See Sun 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Thursday 7 Kids To space and back See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Family al fresco FREE Celebrating 25 years of the Catalonia Formula 1 See Mon 4. Various venues including Pg. de Gràcia. Sports Formula 1 Pirelli Spanish Grand Prix 2015 F1 fever hits Catalonia. With its mix of high- and low-speed corners, Barcelona’s circuit pushes drivers to the limit. See page 35. Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya (Camí Mas Moreneta, Montmeló). Montmeló (RENFE). May 8-10. More info: www.circuitcat.com Tour The Secret Pedrera See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC). Saturday 9 Cinema 2nd Film Cycle at Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum #NVGTPCVKXGƁNOUGTKGUQPVJG history and use of cannabis. Palau Mornau (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). Tel. 93 319 75 39. May 9-31. 10am-10pm. hashmuseum.com Tour Secret Basilica del Pi See Fri 1. Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 37 Things to Do Santa Maria del Pi (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Sant Pau modernista monument| See Sat 2. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). House-museum Casa Bloc See Sat 2. (C/ d’Almirall Pròixida, 1-3-5). M: Torras i Bages (L1). Tibidabo theme park | See Sat 2. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia blau or bus 196. Explore the world of crystals From diamonds to common minerals, crystals are beautiful, fascinating – and very useful. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). May 9-10 10am-7pm. Included in entry fee. Fair BCN Int’l Motor Show 2015 The latest innovations and trends in motor vehicles, from connected cars to sustainability. Fira de Barcelona (Av. Reina Maria Cristina, 2-16). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). May 9-17. More info: www. salonautomovil.com. Kids Bim Bom, babies at the Palau A chance for parents and babies to experience music together. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). May 9 4.30pm and 6pm; May 10 11am, 12.30pm and 4.30pm. Clik Hands-on lab where kids can make VJGKTƁTUVUEKGPVKƁEFKUEQXGTKGU CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun and public holidays. €4. From 3 to 6 years. cosmocaixa.com/agenda Sunday 10 Tour FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Cemetery Visit Barcelona’s hillside graveyard. Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 2nd & 4th Sun 11am (Catalan) and 11.15am (Spanish). Cosmobot 2015 The biggest robotics competition in Spain, with entries from top robotics researchers. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). 10am7pm. Included in entry fee. Guided tour of Torre Barró Discover the history of a rarely visited corner of BCN, with spectacular views. (Ctra. Alta Roquetes). Until May 24. 11.45am-12.45pm. €5.10. For more info: tel.93 256 21 22 or www.museuhistoria.bcn.cat. Kids When stories are musical The museum’s storyteller brings the history and sound of each instrument to life. Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150) M: Glòries (L1) , Monumental (L2) and Marina (L4). 5.30pm Clown festival A celebration of clowns and clowning with shows, workshops and activities. La Pedrera (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC). 11am-7pm. €9. Follow in the footsteps of the Triceratops See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Word games Family show with the Rosa Fité theatre company. In Catalan. Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 12.30pm. €13 adults, €8 children. Brunch + music Brunch Electronik Barcelona Open-air fun with a DJ set from BONOBO (UK). Main square Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Noon9pm. €13-€15. Football Wednesday 13 Tour Torre Bellesguard | * League fixture. FC See Sun 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Barcelona – Real Sociedad Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Barça face Basque team. Liceu opera house Date and time TBC. Info: Book your See Thu 7. (La Rambla 51www.fcbarcelona.cat. favourite 59). M: Liceu (L3). Camp Nou (Aristides restaurants at Maillol, s/n). M: Les timeout.com/ Corts (L3) barcelona Monday 11 Kids To space and back See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Strategies for living beings See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Tour Santa Maria del Mar rooftop See Fri 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Thursday 14 Sports Spanish Golf Open The El Prat golf course in Terrassa hosts this key tournament. Real Club de Golf El Prat (Plans de Bonvilar, 17, Terrassa). May 14-17. www.realclubdegolfelprat.com Tour Drassanes, history of life A dramatised tour brings to life the city’s medieval Royal Shipyards. Maritime Museu (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). 11am. €10, €7 children Palau de la Música See Wed 6. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Friday 15 Tour The Secret Pedrera See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC). Palau de la Música See Wed 6. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Tuesday 12 Kids Strategies for living beings See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Sports Formula 1 Test Days After the Grand Prix, teams put their cars through their paces on the track. Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya (Camí Mas Moreneta, Montmeló). Montmeló (RENFE). May 12-13. More info: www.circuitcat.com. 38 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com The Secret Pedrera See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC). Saturday 16 Tour FREE Night of the Museums Many of Barcelona’s museums open late to mark International Museum Day on May 18. See page 42. Various museums. www. lanitdelsmuseus.cat and www. barcelona.cat/lanitdelsmuseus. Secret Basilica del Pi See Fri 1. Santa Maria del Pi (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Things to Do Astronomical observation A night of astronomy, with experts on hand to help you spot Venus, Jupiter and other celestial bodies. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). 7pm-1am. Delve into the universe Nocturnal sessions at the musem’s planetarium. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). 10pm, 11pm, midnight. Human towers Interactive visit to ‘Toca, Toca’ See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Sunday 17 Human towers FREE Anniversary Castellers Vila de Gràcia Gràcia’s castellers celebrate 18 years of human tower building. (Pl. Vila de Gràcia). M: Fonanta (L3). Noon. FREE Castellers at Maremagnum See Sat 2. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). FREE Diada de Can Bandarra in Poble-sec Annual festival for Poble-sec’s castellers. (C/Blesa). Noon. Kids Tour The world of Playmobil Workshops, collectibles, dioramas. Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). May 16-17. 10am-8pm. FREE Baluard Gardens See Sun 3. (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). Cemetery See Sun 3. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). Guided Tour of Torre Barró See Sun 10. (Ctra. Alta Roquetes). Kids Bubble planetarium Kids learn about planetary orbits and the stars in this practical workshop.CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun, public holidays. €4. (QTMKFUƁXGCPFCDQXGYYY cosmocaixa.com/agenda Football FREE Guided tour of Poblenou * League fixture. RCD Espanyol – Real Madrid See Ronaldo, Bale et al in action. Date and time TBC. More info: www. rcdespanyol.com. Estadi Cornellà El Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100. Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà Monday 18 Tour Palau de la Música See Wed 6. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Liceu opera house See Thu 7. (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Tuesday 19 Human towers Castellers practice session See Tue 5. Can Musons (Alzina, 7). M: Joanic (L4). Tour Guided tour of Reial Acadèmia Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 39 Things to Do Discover the history of Barcelona’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Reial Acadèmia de Belles Arts de Sant Jordi, Casa Llotja (Pg. d’Isabel II, 1-7). M: Barceloneta (L4). 11am. www.casessingulars.com Wednesday 20 Tour Torre Bellesguard See Sun 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). The Secret Pedrera See Wed 6. (Provença, 261). M: Diagonal (L3, L5), Provença (FGC). Thursday 21 Tour Secret Basilica del Pi See Fri 1. Santa Maria del Pi (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Friday 22 Cinema 2nd Film Cycle at Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum See Sat 9. Palau Mornau (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). Saturday 23 Tour House-museum Casa Bloc See Sat 2. (C/ d’Almirall Pròixida, 1-3-5). M: Torras i Bages (L1). Human towers Festa Catalana in Barcelona Get to know some of Catalonia’s most popular cultural activities, such as human towers.(Av. de la Catedral). M: Jaume 1 (L4). 7pm. Kids What are we researching today? Free science activity included with museum entry fee. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun public hols, 10am-8pm. Sunday 24 Tour FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Cemetery See Sun 10. Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC) Kids Word games See Sun 10. Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Football * League fixture. FC Barcelona – Deportivo La Coruña It’s almost the end of the league – can Barça triumph? Date and time TBC. More info: www.fcbarcelona. cat. Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). M: Les Corts (L3). Brunch + music Brunch Electronik Barcelona See Sun 10. Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC) Monday 25 Tour Santa Maria del Mar rooftop See Fri 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Liceu opera house See Thu 7. (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Tuesday 26 Human towers Castellers practice session See Tue 5. Can Musons (Alzina, 7). M: Joanic (L4). Kids Strategies for living beings See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Wednesday 27 Tour Palau de la Música See Wed 6. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Saturday 30 Human towers FREE Castellers at Maremagnum See Sat 2. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). ‘Reclaim the street’ Human towers with the castellers of the Sants district. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: M: Sants (L3, L5). 6pm. Sant Pau modernista monument| Sailing See Sat 2. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). See Sat 2. Maritime Museum (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Thursday 28 Drassanes (L3). Sat 9.30am. €12 adults. €6 kids. Festival Primavera Sound Barcelona’s mega spring music festival. See page 18. Parc del Fòrum (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). May 28-30. www. primaverasound.com Loop 2015 Independent platform for video art CPFCTVKUVoUƁNOURTGUGPVGFKP unique settings. For info about venues and timings, see www.loop-barcelona.com Tour Secret Basilica del Pi See Fri 1. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) Friday 29 Cinema 2nd Film Cycle at Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum See Sat 9. Palau Mornau (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4) Kids To space and back See Fri 1. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). 40 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Football King’s Cup Final. FC Barcelona – Athletic de Bilbao The teams battle it out for Spain’s top trophy. Date and time TBC. More info: www.fcbarcelona.cat. Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). M: Les Corts (L3). Kids Zig Zag Songs, games and dance introduce young children to the world of music. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 11am, 12.30pm and 4.30pm. €14 adults, €6 kids. Motor sports Urban rally Vintage and classic motorcycles on a 60km urban rally circuit. Various venues. museumoto.com Sunday 31 Human towers FREE Castellers at Maremagnum See Sun 3. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). Sights Architecture Basílica de la Sagrada Família (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada Família (L2, L5). T. 93 513 20 60. 9am-8pm. Guided tour/with audio guide: €19.50. Barcelona’s most famous landmark, begun by Antoni Gaudí KPCPFWPƁPKUJGFVQVJKU day. Ticket sales help fund the ongoing construction of Spain’s most popular tourist attraction. Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 310 23 90. Mon-Sat 9am-1.30pm, 4.30pm8pm; Sun and public holidays 10.30am-1.30pm, 4.30pm-8pm. Wheelchair access. Known as the ‘cathedral of the Ribera’, this church is one of the most perfect examples of gothic architecture, thanks to the harmony of its proportions and its inherent serenity. Basílica de Santa Maria del Pi (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) + Jaume I (L4). T. 93 318 47 43. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 5pm8pm. €4. €3 (reduced). Guided tour (including belltower): Sat noon (advanced booking). €12. €8 (reduced). One of Barcelona’s grandest Gothic churches, with great views from its belltower. Casa Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 216 03 06. 9am-9pm. €21.50. €18.50 (reduced). Last admission: 8pm. More info: www.casabatllo.cat. The sensuality and harmony of its interior, combined with Gaudí’s use of colours, shapes and light make this a must-see for admirers of the architect’s work. Gaudí Crypt at Colònia Güell (Claudi Güell, 6 – Santa Coloma de Cervelló). M: Espanya (L1, L3) & FGC (S4, S8, S33): Colònia Güell. T. 93 630 58 07. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat, Sun, public hols 10am-3pm. €9 (incl. audio guide). €7.50 (reduced). Gaudí’s hidden treasure is a UNESCO World Heritage Site inside Colònia Güell, a planned textile factory and residential area 20 mins from Barcelona. Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51–59). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 485 99 14. Guided tour: Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. €14. 30-minute tour: €6. www.liceubarcelona.cat. Visit one of the world’s great opera houses: discover the impressive concert hall and exclusive private rooms that make this one of Barcelona’s most emblematic buildings. La Pedrera (Provença, 261–265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 138. 9am-8pm. Last admission: 7.30pm. €20.50. €16.50 (reduced). Many Barcelona residents regard this as Gaudí’s true masterpiece. The roof terrace represents modernista CTEJKVGEJVWTGCVKVUƁPGUV Palau Güell (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: Drassanes & Liceu (L3). T. 93 472 57 75. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Last admission: 7pm. Closed Mon except public hols. €12. €8 (reduced). Built by Gaudí in the late 19th century, this palace belonged to his principal patron. The roof terrace shouldn’t be missed. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 295 72 00. 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 (reduced). Under 10s free. Step inside one of the most beautiful modernista buildings in the city, today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sant Pau, modernista monument (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau (L5). T. 93 553 78 01. Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm; Sun, public hols 10am-2.30pm. Selfguided tour: €8. €5.60 (reduced). Guided tour: €14. €9.80 (reduced). First Sunday of month and under 16s free. More info: www. santpaubarcelona.org. Tour the buildings and grounds of Hospital Sant Pau, one of the world’s largest Art Nouveau monuments, recently restored and opened to the public. Torre Bellesguard (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). T. 93 250 40 93. Tue-Sun 10am-3pm. Closed Mon. Panoramic tour: €7 (audio guide to exterior, remains of Martin the Humane’s palace, audiovisual centre). Guided tour: €16 (tower exterior and interior, roof terrace access). English: Mon-Sat 11am. Discover the modernista castle that Antoni Gaudí built at the foot of Tibidado mountain. Leisure Aire de Barcelona, Arab Baths (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: Barceloneta (L4) & Jaume I (L4). 6/QP(TKƁTUV entry 10am; last entry between 10pm and midnight; Sat, Sun and days before public holidays: last entry between midnight and 2am. www.airedebarcelona.com. These Arab baths revive the ancient tradition of bathing as a form of relaxation, in a gorgeous setting. Barcelona Urban Forest (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 117 34 26. Apr: Sat, Sun 10am-3pm, 4pm-8pm. €11-€27 (prices vary depending on age and circuit). Get some high-adrenaline exercise in an urban adventure park with over 30 attractions, including zip lines, bungee jumping, trampolines and more. Gaudí Experience (Larrard, 41). M: Lesseps (L3). T. 93 285 44 40. 10am-7pm. €9. €7.50 (reduced). A fascinating interactive journey that uses 4-D technology to take you inside Gaudí’s universe. Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3). T. 93 508 63 00. Tue-Thu Sun 9ammidnight; Fri 9am-3am; Sat 9am4am. €12. €7, €8.40 (reduced). Built for the 1929 Barcelona Expo by modernista architect Puig i Cadalfach, Poble Espanyol is an open-air museum on Montjuïc with replicas of streets, squares and buildings from all over Spain. Regularly hosts live music events. Tibidabo Amusement Park (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). Bus Tibibus (T2A) from Plaça Catalunya. M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC) + Tramvia Blau or Bus 196 + Funicular del Tibidabo. T. 93 211 79 42. More info: www.tibidabo. cat. Sky Walk: Mon-Fri 11am6pm. €12.70. Children measuring less than 120cm: €7.80. Amusement park: SatSun noon-8pm, 9pm. €28.50. Children under 120cm: €10.30. Tibidabo is one of the oldest theme parks in the world, and features classic rides, old favourites and brand-new attractions with spectacular views over the city. PortAventura (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train: Port Aventura. T. 902 20 22 20. For prices and times contact tourist QHƁEGUQTXKUKVRQTVCXGPVWTCGU Located one hour south of Barcelona this theme park has six zones (Mediterranean, Far West, SesameAdventure, Mexico, China and Polynesia) cover 119 hectares, with 30 attractions, 100 processions every day, 75 restaurants and snack bars, and 27 craft and gift shops. Barcelona Zoo (Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/ Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 902 45 75 45. Until May 15: 10am-7pm. From May 16: 10am-8pm. €19.90. Children (ages 3-12): €11.95. Open for more than 100 years, this is one of the city’s bestloved attractions. Nowadays it’s home to more than 2,000 animals representing some 315 species. Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 41 The Arts MIQUEL COLL MOLAS Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] @eugeniasendra A night to remember Ever wondered what happens in museums late at night? This month [QWIGVVJGEJCPEGVQƁPFQWV$[Albert Castelltort On Saturday May 16, many Barcelona museums will open their doors for free late into the night, until 1am in most cases. La Nit dels Museus is the city’s way of marking International Museum Day on May 18, and lots of the venues will be organising special events, such as concerts and activities related to their current exhibitions, for the occasion. This KUCEJCPEGVQIGVCEWNVWTGƁZYJKNG avoiding (most of) the usual daytime crowds, and enjoy a different kind of BCN nightlife. While the big guns such as CaixaForum and MACBA (pictured above) are a natural pull, you could also take this opportunity to visit some of the more overlooked local cultural centres. One such place is Blueproject Foundation (Princesa, 57; www.blueprojectfoundation. com). Located in the heart of Barcelona, just a few steps from the Museu Picasso, is this tworoom multidisciplinary art centre that seeks to support young artists. At the moment you can see VJGƁTUVUQNQGZJKDKVKQPQH(TGPEJ artist Lionel Esteve, ‘Un Nuage Sur Mes Épaules’. This installation was created specially for the foundation’s Il Salotto exhibition space, leveraging each of its corners, nooks and crannies to produce an autonomous universe that leads the visitor into the artist’s dreamy world. Also on show is Luz Broto’s ‘274,59 m2’, a piece that provides an insight into a walled space of the titular size that has been closed off for years in a central part of Barcelona. And after seeing the art, you might want to check out their stylish vegetarian café. Just saying. Of course, perhaps you’re looking for something a little bit OQTGƁVVKPIHQTCNCVGPKIJV museum visit, in which case, allow 42 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com us to suggest the Col·lecció de Carrosses fúnebres (Mare de Déu de Port, 56; www.cbsa.cat).This exhibition of 22 funeral carriages is the ideal place to freak yourself out wondering what’s hiding in the dark shadows of this curious museum, which is located in the basement of the company that manages the city’s cemeteries. At possibly the spookiest place to open late this May 16, guided tours will be offered hourly between 7.30pm and 10.30pm – do you dare? Heading further out of the centre, the Fabra i Coats Centre d’Art Contemporani (Sant Adrià, 20; www.lameva.barcelona.cat) is located in a former textiles factory in the neighbourhood of Sant Andreu, an area that retains the spirit of the independent town it once was. The centre itself seeks to offer an insight into the complexity of modern culture and art. Go on May 16 and you’ll catch the last day (or rather, evening) of ‘After Landscape. Ciutats Copiades’, an exhibition that includes the works of around a dozen local and international artists and explores the standardisation of different urban landscapes around the world. Finally, we’re going right outside Barcelona to Cornellà de Llobregat and its water museum, Museu Agbar de les Aigües (Carretera de Sant Boi, 4-6, Cornellà de Llobregat; museudelesaigues. com), housed in a fabulous modernista complex that was inaugurated in 1909. The museum walks you through the water supply process with a focus on Barcelona from its Roman guise to the present – the centre was originally inaugurated to extract water from the Baix Llobregat aquifer and transport it to neighbouring Barcelona, and it continues to serve this purpose today. We know what you’re thinking, water supply, that’s not the most interesting of subjects for a Saturday night out. But sometimes it’s worth remembering that things we take for granted – like water gushing out of a tap – have their own backstory. Prophetia CONSTITUTIONAL WHITE, KOSTAS BASSANOS inspired Mateo Maté to create the sculptural space ‘Àrea restringida (Europa)’ (‘Restricted area [Europe]’). Fundació Joan Miró Until June 7 A thousand-year-old stone and a bullet from 1941. This is ‘The History of Europe’, a disconcerting work by Jimmie Durham that shows up the weaknesses of the continent’s supposed identity and which welcomes visitors to this remarkable exhibition about the disappointment that is the current European project. Like an updated Greek myth, in the new here and now, the black-suited men of the Troika have hijacked (the idea of) Europe. The Old Continent is in trouble – a powerful economic, political and social crisis is raging across the region, leaving the system’s infrastructure reeling. The dream is over. ‘Blinda’ by Jorge García, reflects on the walls that have been scaled throughout Europe’s history (from Classical Greece to those in the North African Spanish territories of Ceuta and Melilla across which desperate would-be immigrants scramble) – on rolls of wound-up cable, illuminated letters spell out ‘Post Optimism’. Elsewhere in the show, the fallacy regarding the free movement of people has A bleak outlook Prophetia doesn’t offer hopeful answers or magic potions for confronting the current uncertainty, but rather a direct, no-holds-barred reading about the weaknesses and failures of the Union. For ‘Las diez y diez’, Pelayo Varela has written various extracts from the EU’s Charter of Fundamental Rights on a wall. On top, he’s constructed a clock mechanism whose hands have sharp edges underneath so that, with the passing of time, they scratch out various words. Therefore the Charter, which, in its day was democratically agreed upon, gradually fades away. The 20 pieces that make up this exhibition at the Fundació Miró, which is curated by Imma Prieto, are imbued throughout with the lack of excitement for a Europe that is no longer owned by the citizens and that, managed from the offices of Brussels by corrupt technocrats and bureaucrats, is increasingly nothing more than a questionable undertaking. –Aina Mercadé FOOTNOTE The exhibition includes works dating from 1989 to the present day. WAR. WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR? Nearly 80 years after the start of the Spanish Civil War, Barcelona’s cultural agenda still echoes with the effects of VJGEQPƂKEV INCERTA GLÒRIA Stage adaptation of Joan Sales’s 1956 Catalan novel about the experiences of three people living through the war. Teatre Nacional de Catalunya. May 20-Jun 14. www.tnc.cat FOSSAR DE LA PEDRERA Take a guided tour (in English) around this section of Montjuïc cemetery, dedicated in part to those killed during air raids on the city. May 8, 4pm; May 24, 11am. www.cbsa.cat (QTVJGƁTUVVKOGYQTMUEQNNGEVGFD[ Barcelona lawyer Ventura Garcés (1930-2008) are on public display. And for the occasion, just eight pieces have been selected from more than 500. What’s the point, you might think, it’ll take me longer to get there than to look at the art. But personally speaking, I love spending no more than half an hour surrounded by a few really good artworks and giving them all my attention. Curator Daniel Giralt/KTCENGJCUOCFGCOCIPKƁEGPV SUSY GÓMEZ, S/T 113, 2001 Small is beautiful minimal assemblage. A Joan Ponç work proves we don’t value him nearly enough, while a 1988 Tàpies is elegant and generously sized. A more-than-monumental Guinovart could cause you to burst into song in front of it. Julian Schnabel, Antoni Lleura (two works), Jaume Plensa and Miguel Ángel Campano complete the roll call. –Ricard Mas Col·lecció Ventura Garcés Can Framis. Roc Boronat, 116. www.fundaciovilacasas.com CIVIL WAR ART In the MNAC’s permanent collection, discover how the Spanish Republic employed artists and their various techniques in the propaganda war against Franco. www.mnac.cat Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 43 The Arts Music Friday 1 Classical Spanish guitar masters Concert in emblematic church performed by Barcelona Guitar Trío. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. &KUEQWPVCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU Flamenco Palacio del Flamenco show A full cast of guitarists, singers and dancers, and the rhythms of the cajón, heels and palms, take you on a journey into the world of ƂCOGPEQ (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Daily 6.25pm, 8.15pm & 10.30pm. Options: show only; show + one drink; show + different menu options (including tapas. €45-€160. &KUEQWPVCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU/QTGKPHQ YYYRCNCEKQFGNƂCOGPEQEQO 45th Anniversary Tablao Cordobés 6JGHCOQWUƂCOGPEQXGPWG celebrates almost half a century. (Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Daily 8.15pm, 10pm. €42.50. Grand Flamenco Gala Passionate performance that presents the key styles of the classic Spanish music genre. Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). 7pm. €20-€49. Live Flamenco – Tacones Cantaors Miguel de la Tolea and Duende, with dancers Costi El Chato and Yolanda Cortes Santiago. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8.30pm, 9.30pm, 10.30 pm. €10 (on the door). €8 (web). Jazz Charles McPherson & Bruce Barth Trio Tenor saxophonist McPherson is a living legend of jazz: he performs with pianist Bruce Barth’s trio. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €15 (on the door). €12 (web). www.masimas.com Saturday 2 Flamenco Tablao Flamenco Nervión City centre restaurant hosts ƂCOGPEQRGTHQTOCPEG (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I (L4). Thu, Fri, Sat 8pm-10pm. Show + drink €16.90; show + supper €27.90. Live Flamenco – Tacones See Fri 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Classical Maestros of Spanish Guitar Performance of traditional music from Barcelona 4 Guitars. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 6pm. €30-€35. Teatime classical music Jordán Tejedor, violin, and Laia Martín, piano, perform music by Messiaen, Poulenc and Granados, among others. MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. Jazz Charles McPherson & Bruce Barth Trio See Fri 1. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Sunday 3 Classical Spanish guitar masters See Fri 1. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). FREE Shhh – we’re making music Instruments from the museum in expert hands: today Alfonso Aldeanueva plays Joan Manén’s Etienne de Marie violin. Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 5.30pm. Opera I Due Foscari Concert version of Verdi’s sixth opera, based on Byron’s play about a dying Doge of Venice. With the Liceu Symphony under Massimo Zanetti and Plácido Domingo as Francesco. Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 5pm. €9€199 Flamenco Grand Flamenco Gala #LQWTPG[VJTQWIJƂCOGPEQUV[NGU featuring singer Fefa Gómez. Palau de la Música Catalana, (Palau de la Música 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1- L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49. Blues – Jazz under Miquel Ortega performs Vives’ Bohemios and other works. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. €25, €30. Tuesday 5 Classical Spanish guitar masters See Mon 4. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Catalan artists Soprano Elena Copons sings works by Toldrà, Mompou, Granados and others. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €12. Mataró Rumba All Stars Al fresco jazz as part of the Vermut Jazz season. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 12.45pm. Vivaldi obsession Recorder virtuoso Dorothea Oberlinger leads the Zeffro wind ensemble in a Vivaldi-fest. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €17. A Jimmy McGriff Tribute Blackcelona Hammond Groove Experience pays homage to the master of the Hammond B3 organ. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €12 (on the door). €10 (web). www.masimas.com ‘Pictofonies’ – music and painting Music and art combine. Reial Acadèmia Catalana de les Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). M: Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €5, €12. www.racba.org Monday 4 Classical Flamenco Spanish guitar masters Luis Robisco in concert. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Bach in Barcelona Every Monday and Wednesday lunchtime, cellist Jurgen van Win performs Bach’s Suites in a 11thcentury Benedictine monastery. Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). Mon & Wed 1pm. €16. [email protected]. T. 679 305 718. Bohemios by Amadeu Vives The Vallès Symphony Orchestra 44 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com The most authentic contemporary flamenco at Tablao Cordobés .KXGƂCOGPEQKPQPGQH$CTEGNQPCoU most emblematic tablaos. (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). Daily 6.30pm, 8.15pm, 10pm and 11.30pm. €44-€78.50. Jazz Johnny Big Stone & The Blues Workers feat. Paul Orta Live blues, jazz, boogie-woogie and swing. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double session). Cover charge €8. The Arts Wednesday 6 Classical Shostakovich: concerto for trumpet and piano Martha Argerich and the Orquestra da Camera perform Shostakovich’s Concerto No. 1 and Beethoven’s 4th Symphony. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4).8.30pm.€21-€94. Bach in Barcelona See Mon 4. Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). Spanish guitar masters Russian guitarist Ekaterina Záytseva, based in Barcelona, is considered one of the best of her generation. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Jazz Toni Solà Trio Local jazzman takes the stage. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Thursday 7 Classical Alisa Weilerstein Cellist Weilerstein performs works by Britten, Golijov, Bach and Kodály. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20, €30. Spanish guitar masters See Wed 6. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Flamenco – Jazz Oleándole Flamenco jazz for cocktail hour. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Flamenco Grand Flamenco Gala See Fri 1. Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Friday 8 Classical Maestros of Spanish Guitar Barcelona-born guitarist Manuel González has a well-established international career. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 6pm. €30-€35. Voices inside the Pedrera Discover the interior of La Pedrera accompanied by a capella vocal group Amacord. La Pedrera auditorium (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5). 9pm. €22. Saturday 9 Classical Maestros of Spanish Guitar Manolo Gonzalez plays. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Tchaikovsky’s fourth Clarinettist Kari Krikku performs Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece with the OBC under Pablo González. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). May 9 7pm; May 10 1pm. €10-€56. Teatime classical music ‘Lyrical recital’with soprano Marina Serra and pianist Marina Pelfort. MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm Flamenco Palacio del Flamenco show See Fri 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Flamenco gala Featuring special appearance of guitarist Pau Vallet. Palau de la Música (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49. The most authentic contemporary flamenco at Tablao Cordobés See Tue 5. (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). Musical pairing Schubert with Empordà wines Tasting of Catalan wines and Schubert’s famous Trout Quintet. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 1pm. €25. Sunday 10 Classical Catalan legends The BCN Municipal Band plays works that bring to life Catalan folk tales. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 12.45pm. Choral My favourite things The Orfeó Catalan’s Children’s Choir performs popular songs from kids’ cinema. Palau de la Música Catalana, (Palau de la Música 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1- L4). 9.30pm. €15, €20. OUT-OF-TOWNERS SEAN JONES A talented traditionalist with a flair for innovation, the US trumpeter has played with greats like Wynton Marsalis and Nancy Wilson. Jamboree, Fri 8. 8pm, 10pm. €20, €25. www.masimas.com MAIA HIRASAWA Scandi-pop tales of nostalgia, heartbreak and friendship from the Swedish singer-songwriter here for the Viking Music cycle. L’Auditori, Fri 15. 9pm. €20. www.auditori.cat MICAH P. HINSON Husky-voiced purveyor of bittersweet but beautiful alt-country Americana, Hinson is celebrating the 10th anniversary of his debut album. Bikini, Sun 17. 8pm. €22. www.bikinibcn.com THE TING TINGS The Manchester-based indie electronic duo recorded their latest disco/electropop album Super Critical in Ibiza. Razzmatazz, Fri 22. 1am. €13, €17. www.salarazzmatazz.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 45 The Arts Jazz Diana Palau & Joel Moreno Quartet Al fresco jazz as part of the Vermut Jazz season. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 12.45pm. Flamenco Flamenco gala Featuring dancer Eli Ayala. Palau de la Música (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49. Monday 11 Classical Bach in Barcelona See Mon 4. Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). Spanish guitar masters See Wed 6. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Composer Scott Alan: Barcelona & Friends US composer Alan debuts in Spain with some top local musical theatre talents. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 9pm. €20. Jazz Fran Suarez Trio Live jazz in central cocktail bar. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. Tuesday 12 Classical Thursday 14 Classical The story that takes us to today’s Gubaidulina Flute and piano concert. Reial Acadèmia Catalana de les Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). M: Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €5, €12. For more info visit: www.racba.org Spanish guitar masters See Wed 13. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Wednesday 13 Classical Spanish guitar masters Award-winning guitarist, and Barcelona native, Xavier Coll performs in this beautiful setting. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Murray Perahia, Palau 100 The great American pianist returns to perform music by Bach, Haydyn, Beethoven, Franck and Chopin. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €12-€80. Christina Pluhar’s Arpeggiata A journey around the musical traditions of the Med, from Greece and Turkey to Portugal. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €10-€48. Flamenco 45th Anniversary Tablao Cordobés See Fri 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Grand Flamenco Gala See Fri 1. Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Flamenco Jazz Live Flamenco Enjoy Spanish music and dance. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 9.30pm, 10.30 pm. €10 (on the door). €8 (web). Geni Barry Trio Jazz with cocktail accompaniment. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Eduard Iniesta Catalan specialist in fretted instruments, from lutes to bouzoukis, accompanied by National Classical Orchestra of Andorra. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8pm. €13. Jazz A coffee with... Baroque concert cycle, celebrating the great academies and musical coffee houses of the period: May’s concert features the music of Jean Baptiste Lully. Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). Noon. Family concert A bridge of songs Children’s choirs from across Catalonia in a festive concert of songs traditonal and modern. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 12.30pm. €10. Book your favourite restaurants at timeout.com/ barcelona Anton Jarl Quartet Jazz with cocktail accompaniment. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Friday 15 Classical Spanish guitar masters Pedro J. González is a Barcelonabased guitarist known for his fusion QHOQFGTOCPFƂCOGPEQUQWPFU Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Montserrat choir The famous boys’ choir performs music by Vivancos, Pärt, Poulenc, Elgar and others. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €13. Flamenco Sacred Lieder Càmera choir 21st-century sacred music including new work Sanctus Missae by Josep Vila i Casañas. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 7.30pm. €12. Rock – Funk – Blues Julian Kanevsky Argentinian guitarist and soughtafter session musician peforms with his power trio. Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. €15. Pop – Rock – Rumba Grand Flamenco Gala See Fri 1. Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla 115) . M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Melendi Hugely popular Spanish singer hits town. Palau Sant Jordi (Passeig Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). 9.30pm. €24-€120. Saturday 16 Classical Jazz Maestros of Spanish Guitar Performance of traditional music from Barcelona 4 Guitars. 46 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Roberto Fonesca, piano Solo concert by one of the most outstanding pianists of the new generation of Cuban The Arts musicians as he tours Europe. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €20 (on the door). €15 (web). www.masimas.com Flamenco 45th Anniversary Tablao Cordobés See Fri 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Sunday 17 Classical Musical residences Chamber concert with cellist Oscar Alabau and pianist Albert Guinovart. La Pedrera auditorium (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5). 6pm. €12. 25th anniversary of Palau Chamber Choir The Choir performs Monteverdi’s Madrigali i Scherzi Musicali. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. Jazz Walk Jazz Free open-air music. Exterior space at L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). 12.45pm. Blues Lluís Coloma Trio Another local jazzman plays. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Monday 18 Classical Bach in Barcelona See Mon 4. Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). Matosinhos String Quartet Portuguese group perform Mozart, Ravel and Vianna da Motta.Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €13. Maestros of Spanish Guitar See Sat 9. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Flamenco Live Flamenco Another Spanish cultural session. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 9.30pm, 10.30 pm. €10 (on the door). €8 (web). Tuesday 19 Classical One of the Six Parisian Quartets Chamber concert by Clàssic BCN. Reial Acadèmia Catalana de les Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). M: Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €5, €12. www.racba.org Jan Lisiecki , piano Works by Bach, Paderewski, Mendelssohn and Chopin. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €15, €25. 3x3 = Sitkovetsky piano trio One of Europe’s most dynamic groups perform Brahms, Mendelssohn and Schubert. Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €20-€25. Wednesday 20 Classical Maestros of Spanish Guitar See Sat 9. Santa Maria del Pi Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 47 The Arts Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Flamenco Grand Flamenco gala Featuring dancer Nacho Blanco. Palau de la Música (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49. Jazz Pat Martino Jazz guitar great whose career spans over 50 years, Martino performs with Pat Bianchi and Carmen Intorre Jr. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €30 (on the door). €25 (web). www.masimas.com Opera solo album Allau d’estrelles solitaries. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €12 (on the door). €10 (web). masimas.com Blues J.T. Lauritsen Quintet Norwegian bluesman plays. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Book your favourite restaurants at Pop timeout.com/ barcelona Obeses 3D & BCN Municipal band Pop phenomenon Obeses present new album Monstres i Princeses. Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). 9pm. €15. Così Fan Tutte, W.A. Mozart Popular Italian-language opera buffa whose theme can be UWOOGFWRCUnƁCPEÅG swapping’. Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). May 20, 21, 22, 24, 26, 27, 28 and 30. 8pm. Sun 5pm. €9-€199. Thursday 21 Classical Spanish guitar masters See Wed 13. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Petrushka Pianist Ivo Pogorelich plays Liszt, Schumann, Stravisky and Brhams. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8.30pm. Jazz Xavier Baró #EWNVƁIWTGQP5RCKPoUOWUKECN scene, Baró presents his new Friday 22 Classical Spanish guitar masters See Sat 9. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Voices inside the Pedrera See Fri 8. La Pedrera (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5). El amor brujo 1915-2015 The Orquestra Camera Musicae under Tomàs Grau, in a programme that looks at the KPƂWGPEGQH2CTKUQPVJGOWUKE of Manuel de Falla. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8.30pm. Concert in Jeans 3.0 Hispanian Sympony Orchestra perform music by Beethoven. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 9pm. €5€35. Mozart’s 40th symphony The Barcelona Symphony and Catalan National Orchestra performs Stravinsky’s ballet Pulcinella and Mozart’s 40th. Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). May 23 7pm; May 24 11am. €10-€56. Pop – Songwriter Mikel Erentxun Spanish rock musician Erentxum presents new disc Corazones. Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. €20, €25. Saturday 23 Classical Teatime classical music ‘From Blues to folk dance.’ with the Aldamena Duo (sax and piano). MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. Vivaldi’s Four Seasons The Leon Janacek Chamber Orchestra perform Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, as well as Piazzolla’s. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 9pm. €18-€48. Kids The musicians of Bremen Classic folk tale brought to life on stage for young audiences. Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). May 23-24. 11am. €13. Flamenco 45th Anniversary Tablao Cordobés See Fri 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Sunday 24 Classical Beethoven’s Ninth The Vallès Symphony Orchestra, the Orfeó Manresa and the Lieder Camera choir perform Beethoven’s 48 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com ninth symphony. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 6pm. €18-€68. Kids Flamenkids.cat – Sounds from here and there Pere Martínez and Rosalía Vila, VYQRTQOKUKPI[QWPIƂCOGPEQ voices, lead a small family concert. Palau de la Música (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49. Flamenco Palacio del Flamenco show See Fri 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Jazz Elisabet Raspall & Dani Pérez Free al fresco jazz as part of the Vermut Jazz 2015. Exterior space at L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). Monday 25 Classical Spanish guitar masters See Fri 15. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Flamenco 45th Anniversary Tablao Cordobés See Fri 1. (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). Tuesday 26 Classical Piano trios Pianist Ayako Fujiki leads concert. Reial Acadèmia Catalana de Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). M: Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €5, €12. www.racba.org The Arts Cameron Carpenter Young US organist takes the stage. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20. presents new album Vertebrates. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €12 (on the door). €10 (web). www.masimas. com Wednesday 27 Flamenco Friday 29 Classical Grand Flamenco Gala See Fri 1. Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Spanish guitar masters See Wed 6. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Live Flamenco Enjoy Spanish music and dance. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 9.30pm, 10.30 pm. €10 (on the door). €8 (web). Classical Don Giovanni by Mozart Concert version of classic work. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7.30pm. €25-€175. Bach in Barcelona See Mon 4. Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). Thursday 28 Classical Enrique Bagaría Talented young Barcelona pianist performs Haydyn, Brahms and Schumann. Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). May 23 7pm; May 24 11am. €10-€56. Flamenco – Jazz Oleándole See Thu 7. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Jazz David Mengual & Free Spirits The boldest, most contemporarysounding big band in Spain Mahler’s last symphony Mahler’s symphony from the Barcelona Symphony and Catalan National Orchestra. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). May 29 8.30pm: May 30 7pm; May 31 11am. €10-€56. Ballads – Boleros classical music ‘Quintoneando,’ with the De Vellut duo (violin and accordion). MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. Dvorak’s New World The Vallès Symphony Orchestra performs music by Vivancos, Brahms and Dvorak. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 7pm. €18-€68. Sunday 31 Classical Cantatas for the Holy Trinity The Madrigal Choir with soprano María Hinojosa, perfom Bach cantatas. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7.30pm. €20. FREE Shhh – we’re making music See Sun 3. Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). Vivaldi’s Four Seasons Les Orpheistes Symphony Orchestra with violonist Mario Hossen. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 6pm. €22-€49. Blues Dani del Toro & Julian Burdock Spanish and British musicians join forces. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Tamara – 15th anniversary One of Spain’s best-known voices celebrates 15 years on stage. Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. €20, €25. Saturday 30 Modern music Afters: Izah Music inspired by the preceding classical concert, with ‘new princess of soul’ Izah. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina (L1). 9.30pm. €15. Classical Spanish guitar masters Barcelona Guitar Trio perform. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. Teatime Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 49 The Arts Exhibitions Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona (Pl. Pons & Clerch, 2). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 34 20. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Closed Sun and public holidays. Antoni Capella, society photographer Until Oct 3. Catalan snapper whose subjects included the Liceu and Ràdio Barcelona. Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de Barcelona (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 256 22 55. Mon-Fri 9am-8.45pm; Sat 9am1pm. Closed Sun & public holidays. FREE Apel·les Mestres. A complete artist and multi-faceted man May 7-Oct 31. Examining the rich creative output of this Catalan artist (1854-1936) who was a painter, poet, playwright and musician, among his other skills. Blue Project Foundation (Princesa, 57). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 182 43 71. TueSun, 10am-8pm. Mon, closed. €3. Un nuage sur mes épaules Until Jun 7. First solo exhibition in BCN for French artist Lionel Esteve. Luz Broto Until May 24. Young Catalan artist displays her work. CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 476 86 00. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Adults €4. Under 16s free. Pixar: 25 years of animation Until May 3. A behind-thecomputer look at the megasuccessful animation company. Moche culture from ancient Peru. Gold, myths and rituals Until Jun 7. Artworks created almost 2,000 years ago by the Moche people from northern Peru, revealing how they saw the world. Three narratives. Memory Until Jun 21. Works from the “la Caixa” contemporary art collection. FREE I see what you can’t Until May 24. The creative world of people diagnosed with autism. FREE Windows of the world Until Aug 31. 5JQTVƁNOURQTVTC[KPINKHG in Africa, Asia and South America. Can Framis. Fundació Vila Casas (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries (L1), Poblenou (L4) & Llacuna (L4). T. 93 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am6pm; Sun 11am-2pm. Closed Mon, public holidays and Easter weekend. €5. Reduced: €2. Permanent exhibition Contemporary paintings shown in a former cotton factory in Poblenou. The Art of Collecting Until Jul 19. Eight carefully chosen pieces from the collection of Ventura Garcés. See page 43. The Chromatic Cosmogony of Manolo Ballesteros Until Jul 19. Recent paintings by local artist. Castell de Montjuïc (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. OctMar: Mon-Sun and public holidays 10am-6pm. €5. Reduced: €3. Montjuïc, the construction of a castle Permanent exhibition. Doble Creu Sculpture by Carles Berga. Permanent exhibition. Montjuïc Stone Barcelona Until Jun 15. Exploration of how the city was built using this local material. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & public holidays 11am-8pm. 5-6 Jan 11am-3pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €6. Reduced entry for pensioners and students on Wed (except public holidays): €4. Under16s & unemployed: free. Sebald Variations Until Jul 26. Author W.G. Sebald is acclaimed for his turn-of-millennium works. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun and public holidays 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €4 (permanent and temporary exhibitions). Under 16s free. First Sun of month free. Permanent exhibition Barcelona’s science museum that covers more than 50,000m2. Sputnik. The Soyuz 2 Odyssey Until May 31. Delving into the mystery of what happened to cosmonaut Colonel Ivan Istotxnikov, who disappeared from his spacecraft in October 1968. Year 2100 experiment No end date. What might life be like in the year 2100 and the 22nd century? El Born Centre Cultural (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I (L4) & Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 68 51. Tue-Sun and public holidays, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €6. Reduced: €4. Under-16s free. Sun 3pm-8pm free. First Sun every month free, 10am-8pm. El Born Centre Cultural Under the cast-iron structure of one of the city’s 19th-century markets lie extensive remains from the 1700s. Barcelona 1700. From stones to people. Permanent exhibition 18th-century Barcelona was dynamic and forward-looking, but marked by the wars that affected the city from 1691 to 1714. Until it is done! The siege of 1714 No end date. Examining the 14month siege of Barcelona that ended with capitulation to Bourbon troops on September 11, 1714. The Spark of the Revolution Until May 31. Commemorating the 375th anniversary of the Reaper’s Revolt, a key moment in Catalan history that sparked the 12-year Reaper’s War (1640-1652) with the Spanish regime of Philip IV. Espai VolART-Fundació Vila Casas (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri 5pm-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm, 5pm-8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm. Closed Mon and public holidays. €1. Reduced: 50¢. Retrospective May 7-Jun 28 Time travel May 7-Jun 19 Fundació Antoni Tàpies (Aragò, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. TueSun 10am-7pm. Closed Mon. €7. Students and pensioners, €5.60. Maria Lassnig Until May 31. Work by the Austrian artist, who passed away last year. 50 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Antoni Tàpies. Collection # 10 Until May 31. Another range of works by the late Catalan artist. Fundació Joan Miró (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Oct-Jun: Tue-Sat 10am7pm; Thu 10am-9.30pm; Sun & public holidays 10am-2.30pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €11. Temporary exhibition: €7. Espai 13: €2.50. Permanent exhibition Most important public collection of works by the Catalan artist. Prophetia Until May 4. Various artists look at the development of the European project. In Cycling Mode: The Wilson Exercises Until Jun 21. Collaborative project between US artist Anna Craycroft and Spaniard Marc Vives. Fundació Suñol (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm & 4-8pm; Sat 4-8pm. Closed Sun and public holidays. €4. Reduced: €2. Permanent exhibition Collection of works belonging to Josep Suñol that includes art by Warhol, Dalí, Tàpies, Picasso, Miró and Man Ray. Italia. I Sei Sensi Until Jan 9, 2016. Re-examination of late 20thcentury Italian works held in the collection of the Suñol Foundation. José Guerrero. The Presence of Black (1950-1966) May 7-Sep 5. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the birth of the Granada artist, focusing on the period he spent in America when he started exploring themes of abstraction. Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). T. 93 319 75 39. Every day 10am10pm. €7.50. Under-13s free. Permanent exhibition The past, present and future of the cannabis plant and its various uses. Jardí Botànic (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. Apr, May, Sep: daily 10am-7pm. Closed May 1. €3.50. Reduced: €1.70. Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Plants from Mediterranean climate zones all over the world. Salvadoriana. Barcelona’s cabinet of curiosities Until Feb 2016. Reconstruction of one of BCN’s earliest natural history collections. Bonsai Until Jun Mini tree display. TRIP OF A LIFETIME La Pedrera – Fundació Catalunya (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L4; FGC). T. 902 202 138. 9am8.30pm. €3.50. Reduced: €1.70. Leopold Pomés. Flashback Until Jul 12. Retrospective of work from second half of 20th century by multi-faceted creative. La Virreina Centre de la Imatge (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 316 10 00. Tue-Sun and public holidays, 12pm-8pm. Maillol and Greece Sculptor Aristides Maillol (1861-1944) was born close to Perpignan, but spoke Catalan and said he regarded FREE Sophie Calle. Modus Vivendi Catalonia as his true homeland. In 1908, he visited Until Jun 7. French photographer known for her insight into concepts Greece on a trip that inspired his own artistic style. Museu Frederic Marès (Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). T. 93 256 35 00. of privacy and human vulnerability. MACBA. Museu d’Art Contemporani (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 412 08 10. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-9pm; Sun, public holidays 10am-3pm. Closed Tues (except public holidays). Whole museum ticket: €10. Reduced: €8. Collection 2014: The Immaterial Legacy Until May 25. Changes in art and society between the late ’70s and early ’80s. Car je est un autre. Pep Dardanyà Until May 24. Questioning the touching-up of photos, used so often in advertising. Osvaldo Lamborghini Until Jun 1. Looking back on the life and work of this Argentinian writer. Past disquiet Until Jun 1. Reexamination of the international art show held in 1978 in support of Palestine. Iman Issa Winner of last years Hans Nefkens prize. Bouchra Khalili Until Jun 28. Casablanca-born artist who explores themes of clandestine existences and political minorities through video, mixed media, photos and prints. Sergi Aguilar Until Nov 1. Retrospective of work by Barcelona sculptor from past 40 years. park, and visits are covered by general conditions for admission. Access with ticket only. More information: www.parkguell.cat. MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. €7. Reduced: €5. Permanent exhibition The Casa de la Guarda, Park Güell and modernista Barcelona. 21st-century art. Permanent exhibition from the museum’s collection with almost 300 paintings and 80 sculptures. MUHBA Plaça del Rei (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 21 22. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €7. Reduced: €5. Under-16s free. Free admission Sun from 3pm. MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents de Barcelona (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 332 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-7pm; Sat 11am-8pm; Sun, public holidays 10am-2pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €8. Reduced: €6. Permanent exhibition The fascinating world of creativity and inventing. MUHBA Park Güell (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). T. 93 256 21 22. Daily, 8.30am9.30pm. The Casa de la Guarda museum in Park Güell is part of the ‘monumental area’ of the Permanent exhibition An archaeological tour of the Roman colony of Barcino, the origins of the city we know today. Haggadot Until Jul 5. 15thcentury Barcelona and Catalan haggadots (illlustrated Jewish texts), considered the ƁPGUVKPVJGYQTNF Barcelona in late antiquity times No end date. Exhibition of archaeology. MUHBA Refugi 307 (Nou de la Rambla, 169). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 22. Sun: guided visits by appointment MAILLOL A DELFOS , 1908 / HARRY KESSLER / © DEUTSCHES LITERATURARCHIV MARBACH The Arts only. 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm. Closed public holidays. €3.40. MUHBA Refugi 307 400 metres of underground passageways bear witness to the city’s suffering during the Civil War. MUHBA Santa Caterina (Pl. de Joan Capri). T. 93 256 21 22. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm. Closed Sun and public holidays. FREE Permanent exhibition. Archaeological display among the foundations of the Santa Caterina market. MUHBA Turó de la Rovira (Marià Labèrnia s/n). T. 93 256 21 22. Mon-Fri 5pm-8pm; Sat, Sun 11am-8pm. Permanent exhibition Barcelona to the limit. Museu Blau (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc del Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Sat 10am7pm. Sun & public holidays 10am8pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €6. Reduced: €2.70. Museum & Botanical Gardens €7. Reduced €5. Planet life Permanent exhibition about the history of live and evolution of our planet. Poisoned. The most venemous animals in nature Until Dec Discover how natural poisons can both kill and save. Museu de Badalona (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1). Badalona. M: Pep Ventura (L2). T. 93 384 17 50. Tue-Sat 10am-2pm, 5pm-8pm; Sun & public holidays 10am-2pm. €6.48. Reduced: €2.16. Permanent exhibition Visit the underground remains of Baetulo, a Roman City. Intimates. History of underwear, 19th-21st century Until Jun 14 Checking out what we’ve been wearing under our clothes for the past few hundred years. Museu de Montserrat (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199 Montserrat). Monistrol de Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 51 The Arts Montserrat. T. 93 877 77 45. Mon-Sun 10am-5.30pm. €7. Reduced: €4. Permanent Exhibition Paintings by El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, Degas, Pissarro, Dalí and Picasso. The sacredness of JiménezBalaguer Until Jul 5. Retrospective of work by Catalan artist that dates from 1956 to 2014. Temptations Until Jul 12. Exploring the history of Catalonia’s sacred spot through old postcards and the experience of artist Lluís Hortalà, who has spent many hours climbing the Montserrat range. MEB: Museu de l’Eròtica (La Rambla, 96). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). T. 93 318 98 65. Mon-Sun 10 am-12pm. Adults €9. Reduced: €8 Permanent exhibition The history of eroticism. Museu de la Moto de Barcelona (C/ de la Palla, 10). T. 933 186 584. Until Jun 14: Tue-Sat 10.30am2.30pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2.30pm. Closed Mon. The history of the motorbike in Catalonia 36 of the most representative models. Bultaco, a legendary motorbike Until Nov. The musem pays homage to one of the greatest Spanish motorbike manufacturers. Museu de la Música (L’Auditori. Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1) & Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €5. Reduced: €3.50. Free admission Sun from 3pm. Permanent exhibition Take a trip through the different eras of musical history. Phonos, 40 years of electronic music in Barcleona Until Sep 27. The Phonos laboratory was created in 1974 and became a Spanish pioneer in electro music, through experimentation and composition. Voices of the Mediterranean. Until Jul 26. Bringing together examples of voices from countries around the Med, including Italy, Croatia, Greece, Egypt and Algeria. Apr-Oct: Daily 10am-7.30pm (some parts of tour are closed on match day). €23. Children: €17. Under 6s & FCB members, free. Museu de la Xocolata (Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de Sant Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf (L1). T.93 268 78 78. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Camp Nou Experience Discover Sun 10am-3pm. €5. 100 years of the club’s history Groups: €4. and visit the stadium. Book your Permanent Museu del Mamut favourite restaurants at exhibition (Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I timeout.com/ The story of (L4). T. 93 268 85 20. Monbarcelona chocolate, from its Sun 10am-9pm. €7.50. origins to its arrival Reduced: €5. Children (6-15): in Europe. €3.50 Museu de les Cultures del Món (Montcada, 12-14). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 23 00. Tue-Sat 10am7pm; Sun and public holidays 10am-8pm. Closed Mondays (except public holidays). €5. Reduced: €3.50. Permanent exhibition Art, books, and other objects gathered on expeditions to Asia, Africa, Oceania and the Americas. Museu del Disseny de Barcelona 'FKƁEK&KUUGP[*WD$CTEGNQPC2N de les Glòries Catalanes, 37-38). M: Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 68 00. TueSun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. More information: museudeldisseny.cat From the world to the museum. Product design, cultural heritage Permanent exhibition. Daily objects considered from a museum perspective. Dressing the body. Silhouettes and fashion (1550-2014) Permanent exhibition. How women change their shape with clothes. Extraordinary! Decorative and applied arts collections (3rd-20th century) Permanent exhibition. Pieces of art from across the centuries including ceramics, textiles, furniture and clocks. Graphic design: from trade to profession Permanent exhibition. Tracing the professionalisation of graphic design. Design for life Until May 17. Looking at how design can provide the answer to everyday problems. Museu del Futbol Club Barcelona (Aristides Maillol, s/n. Gates 7 or 9). M: Les Corts (L3). T. 902 18 99 00. Permanent exhibition See remains of woolly mammoths and other Ice Age animals. Museu del Modernisme Català (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 96. MonSat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. €10. Reduced: €7. Permanent exhibition 350 works by 42 of the most important artists of the Catalan modernisme movement. Museu Egipci de Barcelona (València, 284). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01 88. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm; Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. €11. Reduced: €8. Permanent exhibition Almost a thousand exhibits provide a glimpse into life in Ancient Egypt. Tutankhamun. Story of a discovery No end date. Remembering the archeological expedition of 1922 that uncovered the pharaoh’s tomb. Museu Marítim de Barcelona (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). T. 93 342 99 20. Daily 10am-8pm. €5. Reduced: €4. Tenas and the sea Until Jun 14. Artworks by Catalan artist Josep Tenas (1943-1996) whose paintings often featured the sea or themes related to it. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays 10am-3pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €12. Admission to roof terrace €2. Free entry Sat afternoon, from 3pm. Temporary shows: ask at museum. Permanent exhibition World’s most important collection of Romanesque art and Catalan modernisme. Gabriel Casas Until Aug 30. Works from the ’30s by photographer Casas, an early proponent of the New Vision movement. Metal stories. Art and power in European medals Until Oct 18. Medal-making across the continent between the 1600s and 1800s. Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport Joan Antoni Samaranch (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 292 53 79. Oct-Mar: Tue-Sat 10am6pm; Sun, public holidays 10am2.30pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €5.10. Students: €3.20. Under-7s and over-65s: free. Museu Frederic Màres (Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun, public holidays 11am-8pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €4.20. Reduced: €2.40. Permanent exhibition Explore in-depth the worlds of sport and the Olympic Games. ‘Summits of my life’ by Kilian Jornet Until Jul 27. Catalan mountain skier and runner who has won numerous competitions in the disciplines as well as the Mont Blanc Ultra-trail three times. Permanent exhibition Located in space that once housed part of the Palau Reial Major, its collection includes a range of valuable artworks and objects. Maillol and Greece Until Jan 31. How a trip to Greece inspired sculptor Aristides Maillol. See page 51. Museu Picasso (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun 9am-7pm; Thu 9am-9.30pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €14 (combined ticket for museum + temporary exhibition). Collection only: €11. Temporary exhibition only: €6.50. 52 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com The Arts Permanent exhibition More than 3,800 works from different periods in Picasso’s life. Picasso/Dalí, Dalí/Picasso View works by the two great 20thcentury artists in parallel. Palau Robert (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun, public holidays 10am-2.30pm. FREE 100 years of the professional librarian Until May 10. Study of the work of these indispensable bibliophiles. FREE Catalunya Moto Until Oct 25. Show that looks at the history of motorcycles in Catalonia, covering themes of industry, society, competition and technology. FREE RCR Architects. Shared creativity Until Sep 13. Exploring 25 years of the Olot architectural studio and the innovative, shared creativity of founders Rafael Aranda, Carme Pigem and Ramon Vilalta. Pis-museu Casa Bloc (Pg. Torras i Bages, 91). M: Torras i Bages (L1). Guided tours in Catalan, Spanish and English: reservations must be made in advance before Thu. Guided tours: Sat 11am & 12.30pm. Information line: Tue-Fri 10am-1pm; Thu 3pm-5.30pm. Individual visits: €3. Info: tel. 93 256 68 01 or www.museudeldisseny.cat. Casa Bloc A symbol of rational social housing in Barcelona. Reial Monestir de Santa Maria de Pedralbes (Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34. TueFri, 10am-5pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun, 10am-8pm. Public holidays, 10am2pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €4.40. Reduced: €3.10. Permanent exhibition Murals under the magnifying glass – paintings from the Sant Miquel Chapel. Permanent exhibition Plants, remedies and apothecaries – the monastery’s medieval garden. Petras albas. The Pedralbes Monastery and the Montcada family Looking at the reasons why Catalan queen Elisenda de Montcada decided to create a monastery in Pedralbes. Theatre El Molino (Vilà i Vilà, 99). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Tel. 93 396 71 91. www. GNOQNKPQDEPEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU Thur-Sat, 5-9pm. Tickets available via Ticketea, Atrapalo, Telentrada, 'PVTCFCUEQOCPFVKEMGVQHƁEGU El Molino Show-Time Thu 9.30pm. Fri 6.30pm, 9.30pm. Sat 6.30pm, 9.30pm. €33. Special offer: 2 tickets + bottle of cava €50. Cabaret and burlesque show in Barcelona’s historical nightspot. Rumba Experience Wed, Thu 6.30pm. €22.50. Rumba as you’ve never seen it before, where audience participation is required. Teatre Gaudí Barcelona (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). M: Sagrada Família (L2, L5) & Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5) T. 93 603 51 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona. EQO6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGPQPGJQWT before performances start. Mares i Filles Until Jun 14. WedSat 10pm. Sun 8pm. €20. Catalan musical looking at a motherdaughter relationship and their respective needs to lead their own lives separate from the other. El Viatge d’Orfeu Wed-Sat 8pm. Sun 6pm. Take a trip with this production that mixes theatre, dance and music. In Catalan. Teatre Lliure: Gràcia (Montseny, 47). M: Fontana (L3) & Joanic (L4). T. 93 238 76 25. www. VGCVTGNNKWTGEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU open Mon-Fri 5-8pm. Weekends and public holidays from 5pm El curiós incident del gos a mitjanit Until May 10. Wed-Sun 8.30pm; Sun 6pm. €23.20-€26. Stage play based on Mark Haddon’s bestseller The Curious Incident of the Dog in the NightTime. In Catalan. Teatre Lliure: Montjuïc (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC) & Poble Sec (L3). T. 93 289 27 70. www. VGCVTGNNKWTGECV6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGP Weekdays 9am-8pm (Plaça Margarida Xurgú) and 3 hours before shows start (Sala Fabià Puigserver). Frank V (Operata d’una banca privada) Until May 17. Wed-Fri 8.30pm; Sat 9pm; Sun 6pm. €15€29. Catalan-language satirical musical about the world of banking. Performance on May 9 has English surtitles. Cleòpatra May 6-24. Wed-Fri 9pm; Sat 6pm, 9.30pm; Sun 6.30pm. Part of a series of three plays exploring the extremes people will go to in the name of money. Sex, drugs, corruption – they’re all here. In Catalan and Spanish. Un enemic del poble May 28-30. Thu, Fri 8.30pm; Sat 9pm; Sun 6pm. New version of Ibsen’s An Enemy of the People. Saturday night show has surtitles in Spanish and English. In Catalan. Teatre Nacional de Catalunya (Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries (L1). T. 93 306 57 00. www.tnc.cat. Ticket QHƁEGUQRGP9GF(TKRO5CV 3-8.30pm; Sun 3-5pm. L’Hort de les Oliveres May 13-26. Thu-Sat 8pm; Sun 6pm. €28. Reduced €14. Family drama inspired by Shakespeare, Chekov and the Bible. In Catalan. Incerta glòria May 20-Jun 14. Wed-Sat 8pm; Sun 6pm. Play based on eponymous novel about Spanish Civil War by Joan Sales, which has recently been translated into English as Uncertain Glory. In Catalan. La nostra mort de cada dia May 28-31. Wed-Sat 8pm; Sun 6pm. Black comedy that sees Death visit a middle-class family in an attempt to spirit away the youngest daughter, but the other members do all they can to stop the scheme. In Catalan. Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3).T. 93 317 75 99. www. VGCVTGRQNKQTCOCEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU Tue-Fri from 5pm. Sat & Sun from 4pm. El Cavernícola May 6-31. Wed-Fri 9pm; Sat 8pm & 10pm. Sun 7pm. €15-€20. Spanish version of Defending the Caveman, the longest-running solo show in Broadway, featuring Spanish actorsinger Nancho Novo. Teatre Tívoli (Casp, 8). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Pg. de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 902 888 788. www.sisteractelmusical.com. Ticketmaster, Atrapalo, Grup Balanyà CPF6GCVTG6ÉXQNKoUQYPVKEMGVQHƁEGU (on days with a programmed performance, from 5pm). Sister Act, the Divine musical Wed, Thu 8pm; Fri, Sat 5.30pm & 9.30pm; Sun 6pm. Until May 10. €25-€65. Musical adapted from VJGRQRWNCTƁNOCDQWVCPKIJVENWD singer who takes refuge from the Mob in a convent. In Spanish. Teatre Victòria (Av. Paral·lel, 65-67). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 329 91 89. www. VGCVTGXKVQTKCEQO$QQMQHƁEG9GF Fri, from 5pm. Sat, Sun, from 4pm until performance starts. Mar i Cel Thu 8.30pm; Fri 9.30pm; Sat 5.30pm & 9.30pm; Sun 6pm. €29-€46. Dagoll Dagomm’s popular musical, a story of corsairs and captives. In Catalan. Dance Mercat de les Flors (Lleida, 59). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 329 91 89. www.mercatflors.cat. Ticket offices open one hour before performances start. Evolucions/Dansa urbana. Catalan and international hip hop Until May 3. Celebration of different urban dance acts. The show must go on May 8-10. Fri, Sat 8.30pm. Sun 6pm. €12. Iconic work by Jérôme Bel performed by local dancers. As if nothing... May 16, 8.30pm. €12. Joint project from Heine Avdal and Yukiko Shinozaki that explores the use and purpose of empty spaces. Ciutat Flamenco Festival 2015 May 21-24. A search for the DGUVWRCPFEQOKPIƂCOGPEQ talent with both improvised and choreographed sets of music and dance. Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 53 Food & Drink Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] @RicardMartn Go Bananas! A little bit frivolous, a little bit sophisticated, but in no danger of taking itself seriously. That’s Bananas, the latest addition to the Born’s nightlife scene. By Laura Conde prawns, egg and vegetable) rub shoulders with croquetas, tartares, steaks of aged beef, salads and tatakis. Like the interior design, the menu shamelessly and fearlessly mixes styles and ideas. The desserts follow the same philosophy, from coconut milk and mango rice pudding to cheesecake, and the extensive wine list, with more than 70 vintages to choose from, places particular emphasis on Catalan creations. After dinner – which can end at the hour of your choosing because the kitchen opens PHOTOGRAPHY: IVAN GIMÉNEZ Once upon a time there was a restaurant called Café Kafka, and it was a sort of intellectualbohemian refuge right smack in the middle of the Born neighbourhood. One fine day, little Kafka had a brother and, as tends to happen in families, the new arrival turned out to be the opposite of his older sibling in every way. The classic pattern of responsible elder brother / naughty little brother is repeated by these two with sober, cosmopolitan Kafka and the irreverent and delightful Bananas. The two brothers, however, get along just fine, thank you very much and, blood being thicker than water, they’re not only related, but they also share a kitchen. In fact, and here I’m going to paraphrase Jodorowsky – regardless of how bad that might sound so soon after mentioning Kafka – two This is one of the few BCN examples of kitsch done in good taste brothers’ personalities can be shaped by their names. On the one hand, Kafka – need we say more? And on the other, Bananas, a crazy whirl of high spirits, a labyrinthine maze of corridors and one of the few examples to be found in Barcelona of a kitsch aesthetic that’s been executed with good taste, if such a thing is even possible. At Bananas the menu is a selfproclaimed Mediterranean fusion affair, in which Indonesian / Malaysian specialities like mee goreng (noodles served with chicken, 54 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com non-stop – comes music and cocktails. Any sense there may have been of sophistication here flies out the window and the space is transformed into something akin to the Marx Brothers’ ship cabin in A Night at the Opera, while a series of multicoloured mojitos (they serve mint, strawberry and mango flavours) orbit the room, mingling with equally colourful daiquiris. All this to the pulsing rhythms of selected Latin tunes, and a dance floor where you can get on down in the absolute confidence that you won’t have to listen to the wails of Shakira. BANANAS Fusina, 7 (Born). T. 93 488 46 60. P: €25-€30. by the way, so it includes a wideranging buffet of hot and cold dishes rather than eggs benedict and bellinis). And a few weeks ago, they inaugurated the Majestic Fashion Tea, a French-style afternoon tea based on eclairs, champagne and the world of la mode. Just the thing for a glamourous break from your sightseeing and shopping: elegant sophistication that’s about as far as you can get from the Anglophile, hipster and futuristic spirit imbued in the post-lunch ventures of places like the Barceló Raval hotel. Once settled into the comfortably anachronistic world of the Majestic, it’s time to take some strategic decisions. First of all, decide between the two tea options on offer: eclair + hot drink + home-made fruit cake (€16); or glass of Ruinart champagne + savoury eclair + eclair from ‘The Fashion Menu’ + home-made fruit cake + macaron + hot drink (€31). That’s not the last decision you’ll have to make, however, because all the eclairs are inspired by the collections of five designers, so you’ll need to choose between Brunello Cucinelli, Bulgari, Jimmy Choo, Rosa Clarà and Salvatore Ferragamo. But once all that effort is over, it’s time to relax and let Gràcia classic is also a place of your spirit and stomach be old-school glamour, a fact TGƂGEVGFKPKVUHQQFEQEMVCKNUCPF pampered in one of the most impressive buildings in Barcelona. in particular, its individuality. Michelin-starred chef Nandu HOTEL MAJESTIC Jubany is in charge of the hotel’s Pg. de Gràcia, 68-70. restaurant and has created an innovative menu that includes one Majestic Fashion Tea, daily 4pm-7pm. of the city’s best brunches (that’s www.hotelmajestic.es the Barcelona version of brunch, A majestic afternoon Fashion, champagne and Parisian glamour in the heart of Barcelona. By Laura Conde For many Catalans, the Majestic Hotel & Spa will always be associated with political group CiU, as it’s the place where its leaders have long gathered to celebrate electoral victories, appearing before joyful supporters on the building’s main balcony. However, from the outside, it’s not obvious that this Passeig de Young ace Bancal del Bosc 2012 DO Montsant. Vol. 14.5%. Expressive minerals from forestrich lands make this Montsant wine a winner. Fruity flavours predominate and it’s powerful on your palate, while the aftertaste is sexy and delicious.Set on a 25-hectare property in a protected mountainous region, Vinyes Domènech have a bioclimatic building whose architecture is integrated into the surrounds: it makes use of rainwater and natural springs, and 90 percent of its electricity comes from renewable energy. In 2012, a lack of rainfall resulted in the concentrated flavours in the bottle – the velvety touch and spontaneity of the young grenache vines will set your tongue a-tingling. –Meritxell Falgueras Want to buy? Head to Lafuente (Aragó, 241) where a bottle costs €10.15 GOOD FOOD ON A BUDGET OFIS This is the daytime version of cocktail bar Sifón, just next door. Create your midday meal from a list of six dishes of which you can choose two, with no restrictions on which comes first, plus a lovely glass of wine and fantastic desserts. All for just €10. Espalter, 4. T. 93 329 68 32 PAN & OIL In the heart of the Sants neighbourhood, this tapas bar gets back to the roots of Catalan tradition with an added playful and creative touch. And they actually do it very well. Their signature dishes include their take on familiar tapas – such as patatas bravas whipped up and served in a glass – and a highly recommendable set lunch menu. Galileu, 30. T. 93 140 18 53 BAR GUIXOT Fancy a sandwich, salad or crepe for lunch or dinner? The place to head is Guixot, which specialises in jazzing up such simple fare with delicious combos (e.g. the Gòtic sandwiches, with chicken, brie, avocado, aubergine and mayo), all in a relaxed atmosphere with great service. Riereta, 8. T. 93 329 95 53 RASOTERRA This phenomenal vegetarian restaurant, owned by the presidents of Slow Food Barcelona, serves a creative, well-made and affordable set lunch menu from which you can choose one, two or three courses. At night they bring out the big guns – home-made pasta and international dishes. Most of the ingredients come from their own garden just outside the city. The excellent flavours shine from the first bite. Palau, 5. T. 93 318 69 26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 55 Food & Drink Long live the queen! MARIA DIAS says they work with a catalogue of ten different Bloody Marys. And they suggest a well-paired tapa for some of the more sophisticated variants. The Bloody Caesar is an insane experiment that has the ƂCXQWTQHENCOUCPFEQOGUYKVJC very refreshing tuna tapa. It’s an orgiastic drink that goes down like water. And I’m about to keel over in pleasure when Luca serves burrata alongside a Bloody Mary with VTWHƂGGUUGPEGCPF\GUV6JGTGoU also a capful of guacamole that goes with a mezcal Bloody Mary, Combining the elegance of three which I don’t order out of prudence. DTQYP%JGUVGTƁGNFUQHCUCPFCDC[ This is ecstasy dressed in red, a window overlooking the quiet street winning proposition, a modern of Ferrer de Blanes, the Bloody cocktail bar indeed. –Òscar Broc Mary Cocktail Lounge enhances its ambience with retro music, low BLOODY MARY COCKTAIL lighting and an angled bar lined LOUNGE Ferrer de Blanes, 3 (Gràcia). with bottles. Bartender Luca, one of the trio behind this new venture, Tue-Sat 5pm-3am. Alta Italia Portal Nou, 19 (Sant Pere). T. 93 423 59 96. P: Around €25 People who know Italy well say the best service and the best food are usually to be found in the trattoria, a word derived from the term trattore, ‘host, innkeeper’. They are unpretentious places, family-run, where la mamma is in charge of the kitchen and il patrone the dining room, with the children drafted as waiters. In the Born, Nicola Villano and Adriana Guilardino, Neapolitan and Piedmontese respectively, have successfully reproduced an institution essential to Italian town and village life, especially at midday, even though their VTCVVQTKCKUQHƁEKCNN[CTGUVCWTCPV The Neapolitan-Piedmontese connection is a coincidence that works in the diner’s favour, DGECWUGKPVGTOUQHƂCXQWTUCPF style these are two of the most different and yet most complementary cuisines in Italy: from the south, pasta and seafood, and from the north, OGCVUVGYUCPFƁNNGFRCUVCU But during the week – when they offer a €12 set lunch menu, with HQWTƁTUVCPFHQWTUGEQPF courses to choose from, dessert, wine and bread included – it’s the 0GCRQNKVCPKPƂWGPEGVJCV predominates, thanks to the arrival of Simone Mándico, an excellent Neapolitan chef who’s a 56 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com dab hand with pasta (generally handmade every day by Adriana) and seafood – and dishes that combine both, like their fabulous spaghetti alle vongole. From time to time, la mamma also makes agnolotti, a speciality from Asti, made al plin – Piedmontese for ‘pinch’ – using the thumb and KPFGZCPFOKFFNGƁPIGTUVQUGCN VJGƁPGUJGGVUQHHTGUJRCUVC CTQWPFCƁNNKPIYJKEJKUOCFG from leftover stock, in the same way Catalans make canelons. As well as the vitel tonnè (‘beef ƂCXQWTGFNKMGVWPCoC Piedmontese classic) and the bollito misto (a traditional stew from Turin), the star dish of this TGƁPGFEWKUKPGKUVJGbagna cauda, raw and crunchy fresh vegetables, served with a warm sauce made of anchovies, garlic and olive oil, which Adriana will prepare to order for a minimum number of diners, making it ideal for sharing with friends. Ordering à la carte, you can have a lunch or dinner for €25. –Marcelo Aparicio THE BILL (For 2) 2 Set menus ........................€24.00 TOTAL (with VAT) ...............€24.00 Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink critics review anonymously and pay their own bills. MÓNICA TUDELA Into the Ɓre Boned, trimmed and dressed This year Dani Lechuga’s Caldeni, the epitome of a steakhouse for the 21st century celebrates its 10th anniversary. By Pau Arenós Three years after opening Caldeni, Dani Lechuga decided to focus on meat. Nothing to do with the family name – ‘Lechuga’ means lettuce in Spanish – but it did run in the family. With a relative in the beef import business, he was guaranteed a supply of top-quality product. This October will mark the 10th anniversary of the restaurant, which last year was joined by Bardeni, a ‘meat bar’. Side by side with a shared kitchen. The economy doesn’t allow for more: any new venture has to be carefully considered to guarantee its survival. The chef is convinced he made the right decision with the meat, and that specialising gives you visibility. ‘We serve clean cuts. We offer a different way of eating meat, without bones or tendons.’ If the raw and WNVTCHTGUJƁUJDCTCV2QDNGUGEoU Espai Kru is a 21st-century seafood restaurant, says Lechuga, Caldeni could be the equivalent for hooves and horns. His initial idea for the premises next door was to open a butcher’s, a place to bone, trim and dress. He’s still thinking about installing a climatecontrolled cooler (but where?) to JCPIVJGƁPGUVEWVU%JGHUYJQ WHAT ELSE? Look out for: The wine list, which has no brutal mark-ups. Recommended for: Anyone looking for an honest menu. Stay away if: You suffer from high blood pressure. are also butchers, like Renzo Garibaldi (of Osso in Lima) are characters to watch, because nostalgia for the Palaeolithic era is growing by the day. The ‘paleo’ diet is a tough bone to chew. Lechuga leaves the Nebraska DNCEM#PIWUƁNGVUVGCMKP%CHÅ FG2CTKUUCWEGHQTVJGƁPCNGn+VoU a 24-month-old animal. Making the sauce is a two-day process, and it has 32 ingredients.’ Academic cooking attracts him too. It’s as tender as a wellfattened gourmet’s cheek. I demand precision with regard to breeds and ageing: ‘I can’t be exact because each piece is different.’ A dark and bloody world. ‘Talking about beef is complicated. How long to age it? It depends. Some overdo it, they sell rotting meat. Ageing is for loins and ribs. At three weeks they’re fantastic.’ Thanks to his contact in the industry, he can pick and choose: ‘Out of a hundred, I’ll take one. Or none.’ The oxtail cannelloni with DNCEMVTWHƂGUCTGUQIQQFKVoU sinful. He demonstrates a good sense of what’s in with the beef carpaccio, dressed like a ceviche. The fricassee – Angus shoulder! – with Mexican tacos is a dish developed for Bardeni. I drink Trio Infernal’s Riu 2011, a TGFVQOCVEJVJKUHGCUVQHƂGUJ Minus points for the octopus (too tough) with calçot onions and egg yolks, which is like an omelette. But the previous courses were brilliant: surf and turf cod cheeks and suckling pig, and peas that could make a grown man weep. Some of the desserts are refreshing, combining pineapple-carrotcoconut, and others are lighter versions of classic desserts, such as Black Forest gâteau in the form of chocolate pa de pessic sponge with cherry and beetroot sorbet Which new pastures should Lechuga head for next? It would DGKPVGTGUVKPIKHJGEQWNFƁPF room for a grill: smoke makes a great accompaniment to beef. And continue his research, become an authority in the world of beef, create something WPKSWGTCKUGJKURTQƁNG/CMG him sought-out for his ruminative wisdom. So that when we think of cuts of beef, we’d think of Lechuga. CALDENI València, 452 (Sagrada Família). T. 93 232 58 11. €45 (not including wine). Set menus: €26, €40, €55 & €65. Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 57 Food & Drink Croquetas: little rolls of goodness $ÅEJGOCNOKZGFYKVJOGCVƁUJQTXGIGVCDNGUTQNNGFKPDTGCFETWODU CPFHTKGFsHCPVCUVKEƂCXQWTHWNEQOHQTVHQQF$[Ricard Martín You often pay per croqueta – expect them to be around €1 each. WORTH THE TRIP FLAVOUR INSPIRATION CASA LUCIO Careful thought goes into the fillings of their croquetas, which can include octopus, olives or pig’s trotters and chickpeas. Viladomat, 59. POLLERIA FONTANA In the upper reaches of Gràcia, close to Fontana metro, hunt out this tapas bar with a range of splendid croquetas. Sant Lluís, 9. MINE Cultures collide here with the chicken tandoori croqueta created by the Argentinian chef of this restaurant in the Sants district. Béjar, 66. LA PEPITA This trendy bar is known for some top croquetas, especially these ham-heavy ones, which they call croquetón Vic. Còrsega, 343. LEKU In this restaurant a short walk from Camp Nou, chef Sergi Amor lovingly crafts amazing oxtail (cua de bou) croquetas. Joan Güell, 189. BODEGA SEPÚLVEDA Chef Joan Solá uses a range of breadcrumbs according to the filling, of which our fave is the baby squid (calamarsons). Sepúlveda, 173 bis. MOLINA Croquetas made with meat cooked in broth (carn d’olla) are a local tradition – this place serves some of BCN’s best. Pg. Sant Gervasi, 65. LA CUINA DEL GUINARDÓ Head north to taste... well, we don’t know. Here the croqueta flavours change daily. But they’re always good! Varsòvia, 148. MALAMÉN Try their squid (calamar) croqueta, which some compare to eating black rice (arrós negre) in croqueta form. That’s a good thing. Blai, 53. MARIA DIAS CRISTINA RECHE THE CLASSICS 58 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 59 Food & Drink Catalan cuisine 7 portes The eponymous Seven Doors open on to as many dining salons, all kitted out in elegant 19th-century décor. Longaproned waiters bring regional FKUJGUKPENWFKPICUVGY[ƁUJ zarzuela with half a lobster, a FKHHGTGPVRCGNNCFCKN[ UJGNNƁUJ for example, or rabbit and snails), a wide array of fresh seafood, and heavier dishes such as herbed black-bean stew with pork sausage, and QTWLQUQTDGVVQƁPKUJ Reservations are available only for certain tables; otherwise, get there early. Passatge Isabel II, 14. T. 93 319 30 33. M: Barceloneta (L4) Agut Barcelona has a wealth of eateries that have improved over the years. Many are back on the map after having been forgotten, and some have the added bonus of having modernised without going over the top, to catch up with the demand for the quality products that their clients want. One such case is Agut. Gignàs, 16. T. 93 315 17 09. M: Drassanes (L3), Jaume I (L4) Bar Velódromo This classic serves quality dishes from early morning until the wee hours. With Jordi Vilà (one of the city’s masters in the kitchen) at the helm, they produce an endless succession of dishes and tapas that will teach you about Catalonia’s gastronomic heritage. The full menu is available all day, so if you fancy some Iberian ham at 7am or a croissant for a midnight snack, just say so. Muntaner, 213. T. 93 430 60 22. M: Hospital Clínic (L5) Freixa Tradició The return of Josep Maria Freixa to his family home, now that Ramón has gone off to enjoy fame in Madrid, has resulted in an authentic festival of traditional cuisine: pig’s trotters with prunes and pine TWO HALVES OF A WHOLE Carmelitas This space was once occupied by a convent and, in more recent times, a huge restaurant. It’s just been converted into a two-part enterprise – one a place for classic tapas (enter from Doctor Dou, 1), while the other is ideal for enjoying a vermouth. Carme, 42 (Raval). T. 93 481 36 20. PWVUEWVVNGƁUJYKVJCTVKEJQMGU CPFRGTJCRUVJGƁPGUV macaroni in Barcelona. Sant Elies, 22. T. 93 209 75 59. M: Sant Gervasi (FGC) Restaurant Gaig It’s currently all the rage for Barna’s top chefs to set up more-affordable offshoots, and this one is under the guiding hand of Carles Gaig. The chef’s philosophy, as at Petit Comitè, is a return to grandmotherly Catalan basics, and the favourite dish here is the canelons – hearty, steaming VWDGUQHRCUVCƁNNGFYKVJ shredded beef and topped with a fragrant béchamel. The various dining rooms manage to be both modern and wonderfully comfortable. Còrsega, 200. T. 93 453 20 20. M: Hospital Clínic (L5) Casa Lepoldo Rosa Gil, the heart and soul of this lovely eatery, has carried out a veritable revolution here, and with excellent results. The cuisine has improved – which is really saying something. They have two standout dishes: the capipota and the oxtail. Sant Rafael, 24. T. 93 441 30 14. M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) Wine bars Bar Nostàlgic Although located in the fashionable Sant Antoni market area, this bar does not mimic the Nordic aesthetic of most new local establishments. They serve a good selection of wines, particularly from Catalonia, plus they have good beer on tap and an impressive list of gins, malt whiskies and special rums. Gin and tonics, spritz... they make it all, including tapas to please even the most sybaritic palates. Viladomat, 38. M: Sant Antoni (L2) Can Cisa/Bar Brutal This restored neighbourhood bar combines a classic bodega at the entrance with a wine bar at the back. They stock 300 wines, all from organic or biodynamic producers around the world, without chemicals or 60 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com additives, at accessible prices. Princesa, 14. T. 93 319 98 81. M: Jaume I (L4) Casa Mariol At the Casa Mariol Wine Bar, which is part of the bodega of the same name, you’ll have the chance to get to know suau, which is a version of a drink (a blend of soda and coffee) that was popular in the Ribera de l’Ebre region decades ago. You can also taste cask wines from the Ebre, accompanied by a nice clotxa (bread stuffed with herring, onions, tomatoes and garlic), and then top it all off with delicious cakes from Batea (a town also in the Ebre). Rosselló, 442. T. 93 436 76 28. M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5) Magatzem Escolà It looks like a hoarder’s paradise of wine bottles, but the shop’s staff know exactly YJGTGGXGT[VJKPIKU;QWoNNƁPFC great variety of products, which is the result of a company that really knows its business and has spent more than half a century dedicated to wine distribution. Watch out for their wine tasting and cocktail events. Comercial, 13. T. 93 167 26 55. M: Barceloneta (L4) Monvínic This is one of the largest information centres for wine not only in Europe but the world over. It’s also a wine bar and restaurant. The latter – which focuses on traditional cuisine with a creative touch – is excellent, by the way. Diputació, 249. T. 93 272 61 87. M: Universitat (L1,L2) Seafood Els pescadors Josep Maulini and his wife have turned this into a lovely spot, combining antique furniture with modern décor, and retaining its air of a small-town bar. One delicious recommendation: Food & Drink grilled sardines in sauce, though they don’t always have them. Rice dishes are a staple on the menu, and never disappoint. Plaça Prim, 1. T. 93 225 20 18. M: Poblenou (L4) Piazze d’Italia A temple of southern Italian cuisine with an innovative and provocative twist. The pizza chef makes the dough spin and FCPEGCDQXGJKUƁPIGTVKRU before transforming it into an outstanding crust. Dare to try their sweet Nutella pizza, which is completely over the top, but not to be missed. Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 59 77. M: Rocafort (L1) Rías de Galicia This restaurant is the setting for the Iglesias family’s wonderful TGNCVKQPUJKRYKVJVJGƁPGUV seafood. The menu includes Cantabrian lobster with garlic, John Dory and txangurro crab cannelloni. And when it’s in season, they have the Don’t go exquisite Bordeaux hungry. Book restaurants at lamprey. timeout.com/ Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 70. barcelona M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC) Tabarca Langosta’s Club Tino Martínez, sailor and chef extraordinaire, has opened an unusual restaurant in Barcelona specialising in lobster: he has recovered the TGEKRGUQHVJGNQDUVGTƁUJGTOGP from the island of Tabarca, and he does so with a menu that includes lobster and rice cooked in the lobster stock. Comte Borrell, 160. T. 661 074 704. M: Universitat (L1,L2) Pizza La Bella Napoli There can be few Barcelona residents who haven’t tried the wonderful pizzas served in this place with an authentic Italian atmosphere, with noisy, cheerful waiters. Book a table if you’re going at the weekend. Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56. M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) La Bricciola A real Italian trattoria with good pizzas and fantastic pasta. Features a good wine list and some great Italian grappa. Olzinelles, 19. T. 93 432 19 33. M: Mercat Nou (L1) Murivecchi This restaurant-trattoria is a direct relative of Un Posto al Sol on C/Urgell, and they both make really good pizzas. Princesa, 59. T. 93 315 22 97. M: Jaume I (L4) Tapas Bar del Pla Positioned somewhere between a French bistro and a tapas bar, the Bar del Pla serves tapas and small plates (divine pig’s trotters with foie, superb pa amb tomàquet). Drinks include Mahou on tap (a ƁPGDGGTQHVGPKIPQTGFJGTG because it’s from Madrid), plus some good wines by the glass. Montcada, 2. T. 93 268 30 03. M: Jaume I (L4) El Jabalí This deli bar, which is reminiscent of Paral·lel in its heyday, is a great place to eat wonderful tapas – try the patatas bravas, the chicken salad and the cured sausage – while sipping on good wine. It’s also a nice place to sit on the terrace and do some serious people watching. Ronda Sant Pau, 15. T. 93 441 10 82. M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) Tapas 24 Another nu-trad tapas bar focusing on quality produce. Among the oxtail stews, fried prawns and cod croquettes, however, fans of chef Carles #DGNNCPYKNNCNUQƁPFRNC[HWN snacks more in keeping with his signature style. The McFoie Burger is an exercise in fastfood heaven, as is the bikini, a small version of his take on the ham and cheese toastie. Diputació, 269. T. 93 488 09 77. M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4) SE Asian Bangkok Cafè Squeezed into a matchbox-sized space, this tiny Thai restaurant serves delicious curries with a IGPWKPGN[ƁGT[MKEMsCPFEQQN 6JCKDGGTUVQSWGPEJVJGƂCOGU With its few tables and high level of success, make sure you reserve (way) in advance. Evarist Arnús, 65. T. 93 339 32 69. M: Plaça del Centre (L3) Batik A simple, unpretentious restaurant with lovely décor and a wide selection of Indonesian, Thai and Malaysian dishes. Try the €14 sampling menu and take a gastronomic tour. València, 454. T. 93 231 60 15. M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5) El Petit Bangkok Authentic Thai specialities include nem sausages and a range of curries and wok dishes. Serious connoisseurs of Thai food consider this one of the best restaurants in the city. Vallirana, 26. T. 616 185 196. M: Padua (FGC) Gado Gado In the Gothic quarter, the longestablished Betawi is a popular choice for Indonesian food, with fresh spices and dishes that balance sweetness and heat. Their other restaurant, in Gràcia, also serves Thai specialities. Try the eponymous gado gado salad, with a rich peanut sauce, or bakmi goreng, traditional stir-fried noodles with egg and vegetables, or their delicious curries. Or, 21. T. 93 179 85 58. M: Joanic (L4) Mé Delicious Vietnamese and Thai specialities fused with other world cuisines, as in their mackerel ceviche with daikon radish and sprouts. Fantastic beef tartare with sweet basil and matchstick fries. París, 162. T. 93 419 49 33. M: Diagonal (L3,L5), Provença (FGC) Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 61 Clubs Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] @RicardMartn The future they promised us Performing on the same night at Razzmatazz are two DJs who played key roles in the evolution of cosmically inspired dance music. By Javier Blánquez Ten years ago, there were some people willing to imagine how the future might be. The future QHOWUKEURGEKƁECNN[DWVCNUQ that of our species as a collective project. Then the dark FC[UQHVJGƁPCPEKCNETKUKU arrived, hope turned to pessimism and the music that envisaged conquests in space, voyages and unknown pleasures became no more than simple escapism from a dark reality. Norwegian HansPeter Lindstrøm exploded onto VJGGNGEVTQPKEOWUKEƁTOCOGPV with ‘I Feel Space’, an invitation to explore the solar system and beyond that suddenly brought disco music with sensual textures and ambitious proportions back into style, as if he was a young Cerrone, or Moroder’s heir. With time, Lindstrøm has established himself as ‘one of those musicians you have to follow’. He always has original ideas, a fantastic feel for melody and a healthy concern for imagining unexpected possibilities. Hard to miss, Redshape plays The Loft at Sala Razzmatazz on May 8 at 12.30am Expect the unexpected Lindstrøm will perform on Friday 8 in the Lolita space of Barcelona mega-club Sala Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122), and it’s hard to imagine a better venue for getting on board his spacecraft and heading off with him to the stars. Doubtless he’ll have some surprises up the sleeve of his spacesuit – his last album Smalhans (which featured food-inspired cosmic music) dates from 2012, and he’s been very quiet ever since. It remains to be seen whether he’ll take us back to a sweet past or propel us forward to an exciting future. 62 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Redshape is a DJ who shares Lindstrøm’s approach, but in techno format. The German producer for a long time remained anonymous, with his face hidden behind a red plastic mask like the one in Edgar Allan Poe’s short story ‘The Masque of the Red Death’. He was eventually revealed to be Sebastian Kramer, a techno veteran from Berlin who visualised odysseys to deep space, following a very similar line to the hardest sound pioneers from Detroit, particularly Underground Resistance. With lightning sequences and rigid rhythms, Redshape’s music has always Lindstrøm has a healthy concern for imagining unexpected possibilities been loyal to a concept of techno as a mental and physical experience. The happy Or if you prefer, coincidence is that Redshape and Lindstrøm are set to Hans-Peter Lindstrøm is in the share a time and a place in Lolita room on May Barcelona, even though they’ll play in separate 8 at 12.30am rooms – the German will be in The Loft, much better suited to his assaults of rage and energy. And will Redshape also bring fresh surprises? His live performances tend to follow the same format – with a lot of machinery on-stage, very manual, very physical – but the sound always changes. Sometimes it’s retro and sensual, and sometimes a radical futurism. CHRISTOPHER LAZZARO UPPING THE ANTE Dirtyphonics The French high-octave DJ ensemble return once more to Barcelona. Renowned for their mighty onstage energy, more similar to a rock concert than turntable set, they are regulars on the festival scene with their notably original live performances. Razzmatazz, Friday 29, 1am. Sessions Nasty Mondays Tattoos, sweat and rock ’n’ roll: the city’s wildest Monday night party. Miss it at your peril. Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Mon midnight. €15 (on the door). €14 (advance). Raw Rebels Dance to the best beats of the ’40s, ’50s and ’60s, with local and international DJs, in the heart of the city. Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça Reial, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Tue 12.30am. €5. Price includes one drink. Caníbal Sound System Live acts, DJs and roots music make for an underground vibe at this long-running club night. Sala Apolo (details above). Wed 12.30am. €12 (on the door). €9 (advance). Price includes one drink. Anti-Karaoke This is the hard rock version of karaoke, with dressing up and obsessive fans, all under the watchful eye of MC, US comedian and actor, Rachel Arieff. Sidecar Factory Club (details above). Thu 10pm. €8. Price includes one drink. Cupcake Take a trip down memory lane without forgetting to live in the moment, with hits from the ’70s right up to the present day. Sala Apolo (details above). Thu 12.30am. €10 (on the door). €8 (advance). Price includes one drink. The Bus Music Club Session celebrating noncommercial, non-mainstream and underground music. Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). M: Bogatell (L4). Thu midnight. €15 (on the door). €13 (advance). Price includes one drink. Happy Techno The beat will get you at this weekend party dedicated to newage and old-school dance music. City Hall (Rbla Catalunya, 2-4). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Sat 12.30am. €12-€18 (depends on arrival time and if you sign up on guest list). Price includes one drink. Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 63 LGBT Edited by Martí Sales [email protected] @itramselas GAY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS LA KÁ IURANTIA Modern space whose food focus is Italian and Catalan. Along with pizzas for all tastes, they like to play with combos such as duck and pear ravioli in Martini sauce. Casanova, 42 Put it in your diary If you’re looking for a night out, Barcelona’s gay scene has a host of regular events for all tastes and types. By Martí Sales EL DIA DE LA TRUITA Tuesdays aren’t always the most fun night of the week, we know that. So if you’re looking for something a bit different to do that day and want to meet new people, head to this Sant Antoni bar that serves a slice of omelette with every drink you order, while for true egg lovers, there’s also a special supper based around the humble truita (omelette in Catalan). La Penúltima. Riera Alta, 40. Every Tue, 7pm. www.facebook.com/lapenultima MILONGA QUEER Fancy learning to dance the tango? Head to El Rouge on Tuesday and Thursday at 8pm, where instructors Carmen María Hergos and Dafne Saldaña will teach from a gender-breaking perspective. Later, at 9.30pm, the milonga (where people dance the tango) is open for whoever wants to try out their new moves without having to adhere to any socially ascribed roles. El Rouge. Poeta Cabanyes, 21. www.facebook.com/tqbcn Saturday night party for women will DGVCMGPWRHQTVJGƁTUVVKOGD[ brother event Pervert, so there’s sure to be a lot of skin and even more darkness. Bloc. Ronda Sant Pere, 19-21. May 9, midnight. www.facebook.com/ GirliciouspartyBarcelona STUPENDA 'XGT[ƁTUV6JWTUFC[QHVJGOQPVJ the disco of mega-club Arena hosts a party aimed at women. Featuring screenings, give-aways and striptease, this month’s is a special one as they’re celebrating 13 years of fun and frolicking. Arena Classic. Diputació, 233. May 7, 11pm. grupoarena.com LA KÁ Liven up your Sunday evening with the good folk of La Ká, a monthly event that has just celebrated its second birthday. This month’s party is titled ‘Let’s talk about sex II’, as they revisit the theme of one of their most popular parties to date. Expect pole dancing, competitions and music from the resident DJs. Sala Plataforma. Nou de la Rambla, 145. May 17, 7pm. www.facebook. com/GalacTeadance.krypton GIRLICIOUS Organised by the Matinée group, this month the reins of this regular 64 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com BENCH Spacious, modern and elegant, Bench is all about creative Mediterranean cuisine. They use fresh market produce with top-notch originality and served with a near perfect presentation. Aribau, 33 COME UNA VOLTA Not all gay-friendly restaurants are in the Gaixample. This cosy Italian restobar is close to the Sagrada Família and serves excellent homemade dishes. Roger de Flor, 246 Getaways The great outdoors Around the Barcelona region this month, towns take advantage of the warmer weather to stage a variety of open-air fairs and festivals. By Nick Chapman 1 2 1. Terrassa travels back in time at the Fira Modernista 2. Standing by for take-off at Aerosport 2015 3. %TQYFUƂQEM to Granollers for the Fira de l’Ascensió 1. Fira Modernista de Terrassa Travel back 100 years to the heyday of Catalan modernisme, at a fair that centres on the extravagant parabolic arches and domes of La Masia Freixa, a masterpiece of modernista architecture in Terrassa’s Sant Jordi park. This is the venue for a period market with stalls selling all kinds of artisanal goods and foods, produced used the same techniques as at the beginning of the 20th century. The market is complemented by workshops and demos of traditional trades presented by master craftspeople – everything from ironmongery and ceramics to glass-blowing. This year the fair pays special homage to the empresario Josep Oller i Roca, the founder of the original Moulin Rouge in Paris, who was born in Terrassa in 1839. XKUKVCVGTTCUUCECVƁTCOQFGTPKUVC /C[ 3 one of the most exciting adventure sports around. There are exhibitions of the many ingenious ways would-be aviators have devised to get airborne, including microlights, paramotors, gliders and gyrocopters, as well CUXKPVCIGNKIJVRNCPGUƂKIJV simulators and the latest related products on the market. You’ll 2. Aerosport 2015 also have the chance to see some Spain’s only festival of light and QHVJGUGOCIPKƁEGPVOCEJKPGU sport aircraft and aviation takes CEVWCNN[VCMGƂKIJV RNCEGUCVVJGVKP[CKTƁGNFKP1FGPC YYYƁTCKIWCNCFCQTI/C[ near Igualada. Aimed equally at professionals, enthusiasts, 3. La Fira de l’Ascensió novices and the merely curious, The Granollers Fira de l’Ascensió is the biggest trade fair in the KVoUCIQQFYC[VQƁPFQWVCDQWV Vallès Oriental, a showcase for an industrious region and its many and varied commercial activities. Last year 60,000 people visited over 170 exhibitors’ stands, representing sectors as diverse as cars, agriculture and livestock, as well as to sample quality local gastronomy, from traditional dishes to cured meats, sausages and cheeses. There are stands offering handmade goods, craft products and personalised clothes, as well as activities including a huge selection of tabletop games, open to all. YYYƁTCUEGPUKQEQO/C[ www.barcelonaismuchmore.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 65 Barcelona Top Ten Flowers 1 Geraniums These were always a classic on the city’s balconies until the IGTCPKWODWVVGTƂ[sCRNCIWG whose name sounds like the title QHCFGVGEVKXGPQXGNsMKNNGFQHHC great number of them, and many TGUKFGPVUQRVGFKPUVGCFHQT RNCUVKEƂQYGTUQTKPVJGDGVVGT homes, material ones. HQTIQVVGPVQDW[CRTGUGPVCPF needs a last-minute solution. (NQTU0CXCTTQKP.C%QPEGREKÏ OCTMGV 8CNÄPEKCKUQRGP all night and has saved the skin of more than one forgetful lover seeking forgiveness for some unconfessable transgression. 7 Violeta 6JKUKUVJGƁTUVPQXGND[2TWFGPEK Bertrana (1867-1941), but, as QHVGPJCRRGPUYKVJNQECN NKVGTCVWTGKVYCUWPRWDNKUJGFHQT FGECFGUsQHVJGOVQDG RTGEKUG6JGYTKVGTFGUETKDGFJKU RTQVCIQPKUVCUnCRQQTEKV[ ƂQYGToCPFGXGPVJQWIJVJCVEKV[ is Girona and not Barcelona, we still wanted to mention her here. 2 Pansies (TQOVKOGVQVKOG[QWoNNƁPF VJGUGCVVJGHQQVQHVJGUEWNRVWTG QH%CVCNCPRQGV,CEKPV8GTFCIWGT halfway along Passeig de Sant ,QCP+UKVCEQPEGRVWCNYKPMQH the eye by a member of the council’s Parks and Gardens FGRCTVOGPVJCXKPICEJWEMNGCV the fact that the Catalan for RCPUKGUKUpensaments, which also means thoughts? Or just RWTGEQKPEKFGPEG! 8 Mercabarna-Ƃor 9 Forget romantic bouquets. This KU$CTEGNQPCoUYJQNGUCNGƂQYGT OCTMGVsUSWCTGOGVTGU EQXGTKPIVYQƂQQTUENQUGVQVJG CKTRQTVYKVJCNQCFKPICPF WPNQCFKPI\QPGQEEWR[KPI OGVTGUQHNQCFKPIFQEMUCPF RCTMKPIURCEGU(NQYGTRQYGT 3 Violant d’Hongria She is Barcelona’s giantess (many Catalan high days and holidays are marked by RTQEGUUKQPUHGCVWTKPIJWIG ƁIWTGUTGRTGUGPVKPIJKUVQTKECN characters from all classes) and KUPGXGTUGGPYKVJQWVJGTRQU[QH ƂQYGTU+PTGCNNKHG8KQNCPVYCUC *WPICTKCPRTKPEGUUCPFYJGP UJGOCTTKGF-KPI,CWOG+CNUQ became queen consort of the Catalan-Aragonese crown, of /CNNQTECCPFQH8CNGPEKC countess of Barcelona, lady of /QPVRGNNKGTCPFXKUEQWPVGUUQH /KNNCW4GURGEV 4 Mercat de les Flors 9JGP/CTKC#WTÄNKC%CROCP[ was culture councillor at the start of the 1980s, she decided to convert the Palace of Agriculture from Barcelona’s +PVGTPCVKQPCN'ZRQUKVKQP KPVQCEWNVWTCNURCEG+VoUUVKNN CTGHGTGPEGRQKPVHQTVJGCVTG CPFFCPEGCƁEKQPCFQUCPF the vestibule hosts a fantastic Miguel Barceló creation. 9 Ateneu Flor de Maig 10 5 10 Torrent de les Flors The name of this Gràcia street comes from Don Manuel Torrente y Flores, the self-made businessman who gave over lands for the urbanisation of the VQYP+VFKFPoVVCMGNQECNUNQPIVQ ECVCNCPKUGKVVQnFQYPRQWTQH ƂQYGTUoYJKEJKURCTVKEWNCTN[ ƁVVKPIYJGPKVTCKPU International New Rose Competition 'CEJ/C[KPVJG%GTXCPVGURCTM (found in the fancy Pedralbes neighbourhood), this contest is held to honour the world’s best roses. Le Petit Prince would be UVWPPGFD[UQOCP[GZVTCXCICPV ƂQYGTUICVJGTGFVQIGVJGTKPQPG garden, but it’s worth seeing, and smelling, it. 6 Flors Navarro 6JGRNCEGHQTCP[QPGYJQoU 66 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com +PCTQWPFYQTMGTU HQWPFGFVJKUHQQFEQQRGTCVKXG in Poblenou. Since 2012, the URCEGJCUDGGPQEEWRKGFD[ local neighbour organisations. 6JG[UKPIKPEJQKTURNC[RKPI RQPICPFYGNEQOGKFGCUCDQWV how to manage the whole kit and caboodle. 7 By Ada Castells
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