WARNING/ DO’S AND DONT'S
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Do not keep the needle threaded when you are not
stitching.
Do not turn your attention away from the machine while
it is running.
Do not run the threaded machine in reverse direction and
without the fabric under the presser foot.
Do not pull the fabric while stitching.
Do not keep the machine under direct sunlight.
Do not keep scissors on the bed of the machine.
Do not attempt to repair the machine or allow any
unauthorized person to do so in the event of your
machine needing attention. Take it to the nearest
vanadana dealer or call him for help.
Never put your hand or finger under the needle or the
belt. You may hurt yourself badly if you accidentally
turn the balance wheel.
Do not oil the machine excessively else the fabric would
get spoiled and the stitches would skip.
Never oil needle, shuttle point, bobbin, thread tension
disks and rubber ring.
Do not install an electric motor of higher capacity than
what has been specified.
psrkouh @ djus ,ao ugha djus ;ksX; dk;Z
tc vki flykbZ ugha dj jgsa gksa rc lqbZ esa /kkxk Mkydj ugha
jf[k,A
• tc e'khu py jgh gks rc vkidk /;ku dgha vsksj ugha tkuk
pkfg,A
• /kkxk Myh gqbZ voLFkk esa vksSj izslj QqV ds uhps diMs ds fcuk
e'khu dks mYVk ugha pyk,aA
• flykbZ djrs le; diMs dks ugh [khapsA
• e'khu dks lh/ks /kwi esa ugha j[ksaA
• e'khu dks csM ij dSph ugha j[ksaA
• vxj vkidh e'khu dks ns[kjs[k dh vko';drk gS rks mldh
ejEer djus dh dksf'k'k ugh djsa ;k fdlh vuf/kd`r O;fDr dks
,slk djus dh vuqefr nsA e”khu dks utnhdh m’kk Mhyj ds ikl
ys tk,a ;k lgk;rk ds fy, mls cqyk,aA
• dHkh Hkh lqbZ ;k csYV ds uhps viuk gkFk ;k maxqyh ugha j[ksaA
vxj l;ksaxo'k vkius pDdk pyk fn;k rks vkidks dkQh pksV
yx ldrh gSA
• e'khu esa vko';drk ls vf/kd ls rsy ugha ns vU;Fkk diMk
[kjkc gks tk,xk vkSj flykbZ faQlysxhA
• lqbZ 'kVy IokbaV fQjdh /kkxk dlko fMLdksa vkSj jcM NYys esa
rsy ugh nsaA
• ftruh {kerk dh fctyh eksVj crkbZ xbZ gks mlls vf/kd {kerk
dh fctyh eksVj dHkh ugha yxk,aA
•
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I: ESSENTIAL PARTS
Names of parts
Installation Instruction
SECTION II: GETTING READY TO SEW
1. Changing needle
2. Thread and needle chart
3. Removing or inserting the bobbin case
4. Winding the bobbin
5. Threading the bobbin case
6. Threading the machine
7. Drawing up the bobbin thread
8. Balancing needle thread tension
9. Thread tension adjustments
10. (a) Changing pressure on fabric
(b) Changing pressure on fabric-select models
11. Adjusting feed dog height
SECTION III: BASIC SEWING
12. Straight stitch sewing
13. (a) Regulating stitch length and direction
(b) Regulating stitch length and direction
(Streamlined)
SECTION IV: DECORATIVE STITCHING
14. (a) Embroidery
(b) Embroidery(Streamlined)
SECTION V: CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
15.
16.
17.
18.
Cleaning the feed dogs
Cleaning shuttle race
Oiling of machine
Trouble shooting
fo’k; lwph
[kaM 1 vfuok;Z iqtsZ
iqtksZ ds uke
bUVys”ku funsZ”k
[kaM 2 flykbZ ds fy, rS;kjh djuk
1. lqbZ cnyuk
2. /kkxk vkSj lqbZ pkVZ
3. fQjdh dsl fudkyuk ;k yxkuk
4. fQjdh esa /kkxk Hkjuk
5. fQjdh ls /kkxk p<kuk
6. e”khu esa /kkxk yxkuk
7. fQjdh ls /kkxk yxkuk
8. lqbZ ds /kkxs dk dlko lgh djuk
9. /kkxs ds dlko dk rkyesy fcBkuk
10. ¼d½ diMs ij ncko cnyuk
¼[k½ diMs ij ncko cnyuk pqfuank ekWMy
11. QhM MkWx dh ÅpkWbZ dk rkyesy fcBkuk
[kaM 3 cqfu;knh flykbZ
12. lh/kh flykbZ
13. ¼d½ flykbZ dh yackbZ ,o fn”kk fu;af=r djuk
¼[k½ flykbZ dh yackbZ ,oa fn”kk fua;f=r djuk LVªheykbZUM
[kaM 4 ltkoVh flykb
14. ¼d½d<kbZ
¼[k½d<kbZ ¼LVªheykbZUM] VhC,lCMhC cVj¶ykbZ½
[kaM 5 viuh e”khu dh ns[kHkky
15. QhM MkWx dh lQkbZ djuk
16. “kVy jsl dh lQkbZ djuk
17. e”khu esa rsy nsuk
18. leL;k lek/kku
ESSENTIAL PARTS
NAME OF PARTS
1. Balance wheel
2. Disconnecting screw
3. Stop motion screw
4. Presser foot
5. Presser foot lifter
6. Needle plate
7. Needle clamp screw
8. Thread tension unit
9. Presser bar screw
10. Thread guide
11. Take up lever
12. Feed dog
13. Stitch regulator knob
14. Bobbin spindle
15. Rubber ring
16. Tension angel
17. Bobbin
18. Bobbin case
19. Shuttle
20. Shuttle race
vfuok;Z iqtsZ
iqtksZ dh igpku
1a cSysl Oghy
2 fMlduksfDVax Ldzw
3 LVki eks'ku Ldzw
4 izslj QqV
5 izslj QqV fyQVj
6 uhMj IysV
7 uhMj DySEi Ldzw
8 FkSzM Vsa'ku ;wfuV Ldzw
9 izslj ckj
10 FkszM xkbM
11 Vsd vi yhoj
12 QhM MkWx
13 fLVp jsX;wysVj ukWc
14 ckWfcu fLiaMy
15 jcM fjx
16 Vsa”ku ,axy
17 ckWfcu
18 ckWfcu dsl
19 “kVy
20 “kVy jsl
INSTALLTION INSTRUCTIONS
• Title the machine backwards and the set screws at the
base.
• After loosening set screws fix the machine into place.
• Tighten set screws and put machine into place.
• Install fly wheel on the outer side if the main shaft.
• Fix stop motion.
• Fix stop motion screw.
• Tighten stop motion screw.
ALL Vandana Straight Machine can be the used either as
hand/ foot or as motorized operations.
Other Instructions
• Select correct needle and thread for the fabric you would
like to sew.
• Check both upper and lower tension to ensure correct
stitch formation.
• Oil the machine before sewing and clean parts regularly
when not in use.
• Check correct presser Foot on the fabric you sew.
• Check that the material is properly supported so that the
seam is not pulled out of line.
• During stitching of synthetic fabrics, make smaller
stitches, keep upper and lower tensions as low as
possible.
• Lock the stitch regulator knob at desired stitch length and
check quality of stitches regulator knob at desired stitch
length and check quality of stitches before proceeding
with stitching.
• When stitching a synthetic fabric to another material,
such as lining place the synthetic fabric on top to help
make a flat seam.
• Check the tension of the belt of the electric motor/
treadle drive to ensure smooth running.
• Keep your fingers away all moving machine parts
especially around the sewing machine needle.
• Always keep a piece of cloth under the Presser Foot
• Do not use bent needles.
• In case motorized machine, the main switch of the
machine must be switched off or the plug removed
from the socket-outlet when not in use.
bULV‚ys
bULV‚ys”ku funsZ”k
• e”khu dks ihNs dh vksj >qdk,a vkSj uhps yxs gq, lsV isapksa dks
<hyk djsaA
• lsV iaspksa dks <hyk djus ds ckn e”khu dks csl ;k est ds dCtksa
esa fcBka,A
• esu “kk¶V dh dlsa ckgjh vkSj mipdz dks baLVkWy djsaA
• LVkWi eks”ku dks ok”kj dks fQDl djsaA
• LVkWi eks”ku dks fQDl djsaA
• LVkWi eks”ku isap dks dlsaA
oUnuk dh lHkh lh/kh e”khusa @iSjksa }kjk ;k eksVj yxkkdj bLrseky
dh ldrh gSA
vU; funsZ”kk
• vki ftl diMs dh flykbZ djuk pkgrs gS mlds vuqlkj lgh
lqbZ vkSj /kkxk pqfu,A
• lgh flykbZ ds fy, Åijh vkSj fupyh] nksuksa flykbZ;ksa es lgh
dlko lqfuf”pr dhft, A
• flykbZ djus ls igys e”khu esa rsy nhft, vkSj tc e”khu
bLrseky ugha gks jgh gks rc mlds iqtksZ dh fu;fer :i ls
lQkbZ dhft,A
• vki ftl diMs dh flykbZ dj jgs gS ml ij izslj QqV ds lgh
ncko dh tkap dhft,A
• ;g nsf[k, fd diMs dks lgh Vsd fey jgh gS rkfd flykbZ dh
fl/kkbZ [kjkc ugh gksA
• d`f=e diMks dh flykbZ ds nkSjku vis{kkd`r NksVh flykbZ djsaA
Åijh vkSj fupys dlko dks ;FkklaHko de j[ksaA
• flykbZ dh okafNr yackbZ ij flykbZ fu;a=d [kVds dk rkyk
yxkk nsa rFkk vkxs flykbZ djus ls igys dh DokkfyVh ij[ksA
• fdlh d`f=e diMs dks fdlh vU; lkexzh] tSls ykbfuax vkfn ds
lkFk flyus ls igys dzf=e diMs dks mij j[ks rkfd likV
flykbZ djus esa enn feysA
• lqpk: pyku lqfuf”pr djus ds fy, fctyh dh eksVj@ikonku
dh csYV ds dlko dh tkap djsaA
• e”khu ds lHkh pyus okys iqtksZ [kklrkSj ij flykbZ e”khu dh
lqbZ ls viuh maxqfy;ksa dks nwj j[ksa A
• izslj QqV ds uhps diMk dk ,d VqdMk ges”kk ekStwn jguk
pkfg,A
• eqMh gqbZ lqbZ bLrseky ugh djsA
• eksVj }kjk e”khu pykus ds ekeysa esa tc e”khu bLrseky ugha gks
jgh gks] rc e”khu ds esu fLop dks vo”; can fd;k tk, ;k
Iyx dks lkdsV&vkmVysV ls fudky fn;k tk,A
GETTING READY TO SEW
1: Changing Needle
• Raise the needle the the top most position by turning the
balance wheel towards you and lower the presser foot,
• Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it towards
you.
• Take off the old needle from the clamp.
• Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with flat side
away from you.
• When inserting needle into the clamp, push it up as far as
is will go and tighten the clamp screw firmly with the
screwdriver.
flykbZ
lykbZ ds fy, rS;kjh djuk
1- lqbZ cnyuk
• pDds dks viuh vkSj /kqekdj vkSj izslj QqV dks uhps djds lqbZ
dks lcls Åaph voLFkk esa yka,A
• lqbZ ds DySEi isap dks viuh vksj /kqekrs gq, <hyk djsaA
• iqjkuh lqbZ dks DySEi esa yxk,aA
• lqbZ dh likV dks vius dks mYVh fn”kk dh vkSj j[krs gq, ubZ
lqbZ dks DySEi esa yxkk,aA
• lqbZ dks DySEi esa Mkyrs le; lqbZ ftruh Åij tk ldrh gks]
mruk mls tkus nsa vkSj ,d ispdl ds lkFk DySEi dks etcwrh
ls dlsaA
2 /kkxk vkSj lqbZ pkVZ
2. Thread and needle chart
For obtaining proper seam, it is very essential to select correct
needle and thread for a particular fabric.
Lkgh flykbZ djus ds fy, ;g t:jh gS fd diMs ds vuqlkj
lqbZ vkSj /kkxk pquk tk,A
lgh
In general, fine thread and needles are used for sewing thin
fabrics and making embroideries. Thicker threads and needles
are for sewing heavy fabrics.
vkerkSj ij irys diMks dks lhus vkSj d<kbZ djus ds fy, eghu /kkxk
vkSj iryh lqbZ;ka bLrseky gksrh gSA Hkkjh diMks dks flyus ds fy,
vis{kkd`r eksVs /kkxs vkSj lqbZ;ka bLrseky gksrh gSA
A chare has been made to help users to select the right kind of
thread needle for different variety of fabrics.
fofHk= izdkj ds diMksa ds fy, lgh /kkxs ,ao lqbZ pquus esa
djus ds fy, ,d pkVZ uhps fn;k x;k gSA
Fabrics
Muslin, Carrboro,
fine Linen, Thin
fabrics, Calico etc.
diMk
/kkxk
eyey]dSfEczd]Qkbu
fyusu]irys]Qsfczd]dSfydks
vkkfn
80-150
Pknj dk diMk Hkkjh
jss’ke]fyusu]eksVk
diMk]gYnh Åu
Sheeting, Heavy
silk, Linen,
Toweling, Light
wool
Corduroy, Brocade,
Shirting
Upholstery Fabric,
Light Canvas,
Heavy Linen,
Denim
Heavy Wool,
Woven Coatings
Threads
Needle Size
80-150
11
60-80
14
50-60
16
40-50
18
20-40
20
dkMZjkbt]tjh]deht dk
diMk
xÌs dk diMk] gYdk
iky]gsoh fyusu]Msfue
Hkkjh Åu]cquk gqvk dksV
dk diMk
lqbZ dk vkdkj
11
60-80
14
50-60
16
40-50
18
20-40
20
enn
3. Removing or inserting the bobbin case
• Remove the slide plate.
• Raise the needle to the top most position by
turning the balance wheel towards you.
• Take out the bobbin case by holding the latch
• Insert bobbin in the same way.
3 fQjdh dsl fudkyuk ;k yxkkuk
•
•
•
•
LykbM IysV dks gVka,A ¼vkd`fr 1½
pDds dks viuh vksj ?kqekdj lqbZ dks lcls Åapha voLFkk
esa yka,A ¼vkd`fr 1 ½
flVduh dks idMdj fQjdh dsl dks ckgj fudkysaA
¼vkd`fr 2½
blh rjhds ls fQjdh dsl dks okil yxka,A
Screw type Bobbin winder
used in TSD, Butterfly,
Streamlined, Umang DLX,
Anand DLX, and Champion &
Bandhan DLX.
ispuqek fQjdh tks TSD]cVj¶ykbZ
LVªheykbUM meax DLX, vkun
DLX, pSfEi;u vkSj ca/ku DLX esa
bLrseky gksrh gS k
4. Winding the Bobbin
• Draw thread from the spool. Guide
the thread around the Bobbin winder
thread guide.
• Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder
spindle.
• While holding the balance wheel with
your left hand loosen the stop motion.
• Press the bobbin winder latch to hold
the bobbin.
• When the bobbin is fully wound, it
will stop automatically.
• Remove the filled bobbin and tighten
the stop motion.
4 fQjdh esa /kkxk Hkjuk
• /kkxs dks jhy ls fudkysa k /kkxs dks fQjdh
okbaMj FkszM xkbM ds lkFk lkFk ys tka,A
• fQjdh dks fQjdh okbaMj LikbaMy ij j[ksa
¼vkd`fr 1½
• vius cka;s gkFk ls pDds dks Fkkedj LVWki
eks”ku dks <hyk djsa ¼vkd`fr 2½
• fQjdh dks Fkkeus ds fy, fQjdh okabMj
dh flVduh dks ncka,A
• tc fQjdh Hkj tk, rks ;g vius vki
:d tk,xhA
• Hkjh gqbZ fQjdh dks fudkysa vkSj LVkWi
eks”ku dks dl nsaA ¼vkd`fr 4½
5. Threading bobbin case
• Place bobbin into bobbin case.
• Make sure the thread unwinds clock wise.
• Pull tread into the bobbin case slot.
• Draw thread under the tension spring and into the delivery
eye.
• Leave about 10 cm of free thread.
5 fQjdh ls /kkxk p<kuk
• fQjdh ls fQjdh dsl esa j[ksaA ¼vkd`fr 1½
• lqfuf”pr djs fd /kkxk mYVh fn”kk esa fudyrk gksA ¼vkd`fr
2)
• /kkxs dks fWQjdh dsl ds fNnz esa ls [khapsA ¼ vkd`fr 3½
• /kkxs dks Vsa”ku fLaizx ds uhps fudkydj fMyhojh vkbZ esa
MkysaA
• yxHkx 10 lsVhehVj /kkxkk [kqyk NksM nsaA
6. Threading the machine
• Raise the thread take-up lever to the highest
position by rotating the balance wheel towards
you.
• Raise the presser fool.
• Keep thread on the spool pin.
• Take thread through a guide on face plate and then
from the outer side of thread tension unit.
• Take thread through take-up lever and thread
guide.
• Insert thread into the needle from left to right.
6 e”khu esa /kkxk yxkuk
• pDds ds viuh /kqekdj /kkxs ysus okys yhoj dks lcls Åaph voLFkk esa
yk,aA
• aizslj QqV dks mBk,aA
• /kkxs dks Liwy fiu ij j[ksaA
• /kkxs dks Qsl IysV ij xkbM ¼fNnz½ esa ls fudkysa vkSj FkszM Vsa”ku ;wfuV
dh ckgjh vkSj ls yk,A
• /kkxs dks Vsd&vi yhoj vkSj FkzsM xkbM esa ls fudkysaA
• /kkxs dks lqbZ esa cka;h vkSj ls nka;h vkSj MkysaA
7. Drawing up the bobbin thread
• Raise presser foot and hold the needle thread lightly with
your left hand. (Fig. 1)
• Turn the balance wheel slowly towards you with your right
hand until the needle goes down and comes out. Now pull
the thread by using the left hand. The bobbin thread will
come out along with his thread. (Fig. 2)
• Pull 10-12 cms of both threads.(Fig. 3)
7 fQjdh dk /kkxk mij fudkyuk
• Ikzslj QqV dks mBk,a rFkk lqbZ ds /kkxs dks dkseyrkiwoZd vius
cka, gkFk esa idMsaA ¼vkd`fr 1½
• Tkc rd lqbZ uhps tkdj nqckjk mij ugh vk tk,] tc rd
vius nk;sa gkFk ls pDds dks /khjs ds lkFk ckgj fudy vk,xkA
(vkd`fr 2)
• nksuksa /kkxksa dks yxHkx 10&12 lsaVhehVj [khap ysaA (vkd`fr 3)
8. Balancing needle thread tension
• The needle thread and the bobbin thread should
interlock in the center of the two layers of fabric in
straight seams.
• Keep the thread tension as desired.
• Loosen the needle thread tension by adjusting the
tension unit.
8 lqbZ ds /kkxs dk dlko lgh djuk
djuk
• lqbZ dk /kkxk vkSj fQjdh dk /kkxk lh/kh flykbZ esa nksuksa diMksa ds chp
esa vkil esa xqaFk tkuk pkfg,A
• /kkxs dk dlko vko”;drkuqlkj gksuk pkfg,A
• Vsa”ku ;wfuV dks <hyk djds lqbZ ds /kkxs dk dlko de fd;k tk
ldrk gSA
Open type tension unit is used in USHA Tailor, Anand, Anand DLX, Champion, Bandhan
& Bandhan DLX.
m’kk Vsyj] vkuan DLX vkaun pSfEi;u ca/ku vkSj ca/ku DLX esa bLrseiy gksus vksiu Vkbi Vs”ku ;wfuV A
9 .Thread tension adjustment
9 /kkxs ds dlko dk rkyesy fcBkuk
Proper seam can be obtained only if the tension for both
upper and lower thread is equal. In case of case of variation
thread tension, the following defects will be observed.
vxj Åij ds /kkxs vkSj uhps ds /kkxsa] nksuks dk cjkcj dlko gks rks
flykbZ gksrh gSA vxj /kkxs ds dlko esa dehis”kh gS rks fuEufyf[kr
[kkfe;kW ns[kus dks feysaxhA
•
•
Loop of thread under the cloth
Loop of the thread on top of the cloth
In case we find loops of thread under fabris, tighten the
thread tension unit knob till the correct seam is achieved. In
case of loops of thread above the fabric, tighten the screw on
bobbin case till correct seam is achieved.
•
•
diMs ds uhps /kkxs dk ywi
diMs ds Åij /kkxs dk ywi
vxj diMs ds uhps /kkxs dk ywi fn[kkbZ nsrk gS rks lgh flykbZ izkIr
gksus rd FkzsM Vas”ku ;wfuV [kVds dks dlsaA vxj diMs ds mih /kkxs
ds ywi fn[kkbZ nsrs gS rks lgh lykbZ izkIr gksus rd fQjdh dsl ds
isap dks dlsaA
10 (a) Changing pressure on fabric
10 ¼d½ diMs ij nckc cnyuk
Ideal pressure on fabric may be obtained by adjusting two
components:
(a)
Presser Foot
(b)
Feed Dog (teeth)
It is essential to increase or decrese the pressure on fabric
depending upon the thickness of the material being used.
nks iqtksZ dk rkyesy fcBkus ls diMs ij vkn”kZ nckc gkkfly gks
tkrk gS%
¼d½ izslj QqV
¼[k½ QhM MkWx ¼VhFk½
bLrseky gks jgh lkexzh dh eksVkbZ ds vk/kj ij diMs ij ncko dks
c<kuk ;k /kVkuk t:jh gSA
•
In case of screw type pressure adjuster, pressure
on the fabric can be increased by tightening the
knob and can be reduced by loosening it.
•
isapuqek izs”kj ,MtLVj ds ekeys esa diMs ij ncko dks
ukWc dldj c<k;k rFkk <hyk djds /kVk;k tk ldrk gSA
10 (b) Changing pressure on fabric
(Streamlined, Tailor Super Deluxe , Butterfly)
Ideal pressure on fabric may be obtained by adjusting two
components:
(a)
Presser Foot
(b)
Feed Dog (teeth)
It is essential to increase or decrease the pressure on fabric
depending upon the thickness of the material being used.
• In case of spring type presser adjuster, increase pressure
on by pushing down the presser regulator knob until
suitable pressure is obtained.To release pressure, push
down the ring . The knob will come back to its highest
position.
10 ¼[k½ diMs ij ncko cnyuk
¼LVªheykbUM] Vsyj lqij MhyDl]cVj¶ykbZ½
nks iqtksZ dk rkyesy fcBkus ls diMs ij vkn”kZ ncko gkfly gks tkrk
gS%
¼d½ izslj QqV
¼[k½ QhM MkWx ¼VhFk½
bLrseky gks jgh lkexzh dh eksVkbZ ds vk/kkj ij diMs ij ncko dks
c<kuk ;k ?kVkuk t:jh gSA
• fLizaxuqek izslj ,MtLVj ds ekeys esa mi;qDr ncko izkIr
gksus rd izslj jasX;qysVj ukWc dks uhps dh vksj /kdsydj
diMs ij ncko c<k;k tk ldrk gSA ncko lekIr djus ds
fy, NYys ds uhps dh vksj /kdsfy,A ukWc okil viuh lcls
Åph voLFkk esa vk tk,xhA
11. Adjusting Feed dog height
(only in case of Streamlined, Tailor Super Deluxe and Butterfly)
Fabric selector knob has three positions, embroidery, silk, and
normal
Embroidery: There is no role of Feed Dog (teeth) during
embroidery work, hence, put the fabric selector on Embroidery
position. Feed Dog (teeth) will drop down automatically.
Silk: Low level of feed dog (teeth) is required in case of silk or
similar fine thin fabrics. By keeping fabric selector on silk position,
the height of feed dog will be kept moderate to suit the cloth.
Normal: Keep fabric selector on Normal position for stitching on
cotton and other normal fabrics.
11 QhM MkWx dh ÅpkbZ dk rkyesy fcBkuk
¼Dsoy LVªheykbUM Vsyj lqij MhyDl vkSj cVj¶ykbZ½ ds ekeys esa
QSfczd lsysDVj ukWc dh rhu voLFkka, gS ,EczWk;Mjh] flYd ,oa ukWeZy½
,EczWk;Mjh%
;Mjh% d<kbZ ds dke ds nkSjku QhM MkWx VhFkZ dk dksbZ dke MkWx
VhFk vius vki uhps vk tk,xkA
flYd%
flYd% js”ke ;k mlh rjg ds ifj”d`r eghu diMksa ds ekeys esa QhM
MkWx dh mapkbZ ek/;e ntsZ dh cuh jgsxh tks izdkj ds diMksa ds fy,
mi;qDr gSA
ukWeZy% lwrh rFkk vU; lkekU; diMksa ij flykbZ djus ds fy, QSfczd
lsysDVj dks ukWeZy ij jf[k,A
BASIC SEWING
cqfu;kn
u;knh flykbZ
12. Straight stitch sewing
• Raise the take up lever to its highest position to lift the
presser foot.
• Place the fabric under presser foot.
• Lower the presser foot.
• Turn balance wheel towards you to lower the needle to
pass through the fabric.
• Keep rotating balance wheel till needle completes one
cycle and comes back to its top position.
• Operate the machine. Guide the fabric letting it feed
smoothly.
• For locking and reverse stitch put regulator knob or ˝R˝
position.
• Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric, drawing
upper/lower thread to the back.
12 lh/kh flykbZ
• izslj QqV dks mBkus ds fy, Vsd vi yhoj dks bldh lcls
Åaph voLFkk esa yk,aA
• diMs dks izslj QqV ds uhps djsaA
• izslj QqV dks uhpas djsA
• lqbZ dks diMsa esa xqtkjus ds fy, pDdj iwjk gksus rFkk okil
viuh “kh’kZ voLFkk esa ykSVus rd pDds dks /kqekrs jgsaA
• e”khu dks ykSVus pyk,aA diMs dks lqpk: rjhds ls xkkbM
djrs jgsaA
• ykWfdax vkSj mYVh flykbZ ds fy, fLVp jsX;qysVj ukWc dks
ÞRß ij j[ksaA
• izslj QqV dks mBka, rFkk mijh] fupys /kkxs dks lkFk] lkFk
[khsaprs gq, diMsa dks fudkysaA
13 (a) Regulating Stitch length and direction
• For thick material, longer stitches are required. While for
thin material, shorter stitches are required. The numbers
shown on the stitch indicator represent the different length
of stitches.
• To adjust the stitch length, loosen the stitch regulator knob
and move the lever upward to increase the length of the
stitch and move it down to shorten the stitch length. Now
tighten the stitch regulator knob. ( Fig.1)
The stitch regulator also has the function reverse feeding that
enables you to lock stitches without the trouble of turning the
fabric. For reverse stitching or locking the stitches move the stitch
regulator knob towards ˝R˝marking. (Fig.2)
13 ¼d
¼d½½ flykbZ dh yackbZ ,ao fn”kk fu;af=r djuk
• eksVh lkexzh ds fy, vis{kkd`r cMs cf[k;k dh t:jr gksrh gSA
lkFk gh iryh lkexzh ds fy, vis{kkd`r NksVs cf[k;k dh vyx
vyx yckab;ksa dks fn[kk, gSA vad ftruk cMk gksxk] cf[k;k Hkh
mruk cMk gksxkA
• cf[k;k NksVk] cMk djus ds fy, fLVp jsX;qysVj ukWc dks <hyk
djsa rFkk cf[k;k cMk djus ds fy, Åij dh tk,a fQj fLVp
jsx;qysVj ukWsc dks dl nsaA ¼vkd`fr 1½½
fLVp jsX;qysVj mYVh flykbZ dk dke Hkh djrk gS ftlls flykbZ dks
can dj ldrs gS vkSj diMk mYVk flykbZ ds fy, ;k flykbZ dks
tger ugha mBkuh iMrh gSA ÅYVh flykbZ ds fy, ;k flykbZ dks can
djus ds fy, fLVp jsX;qysVj ukWc djs vkj ds fu”kku dh vkSj ys
tk,aA ¼vkd`fr 2 ½
13 (b) Reglulating stitch length and direction
(Stremlined & Link Deluxe)
• For thick material, longer stitches are required. While for
thin material, shorter one the numbers shown on the stitch
indicator represent the different length of stitch. The larger
the number the larger numbers, shorter the stitches.Hower
for Link Deluxe model, the larger numbers, shorter the
stitches. (Fig.1)
• To adjust the stitch length, loosen the stitch regulator knob
and move the lever upward to increase the length of the
stitch and move it down to shorten the stitch length. Now
tighten the stitch regulator knob. (Fig.2)
The stitch regulator also has the function of reverse
feeding that enables you to lock stitches without the the
trouble of turning the material. For reverse stitching or
locking the stitches move the stitch regulator knob
towards˝R˝ marking.
[k flykbZ dh yEackbZ ,ao fn”kk fua;f=r djuk
¼LVªheykbUM ,.M fyad MhyDl½
• eksVh lkexzh ds fy, vis{kkd`r cMs cf[k;k dh t:jr gksrh gSA
lkFk gh] iryh lkexzh ds fy, vkis{kkd`r cMs cf[k;k dh t:jr
gksrh gSA fLVp baMhdsVj ij fn[kk, x, vad cf[k;k Hkh mruk
cMk gksxkA tcfd fyad MhyDl ekWMy esa ftruk cMah la[;k
mruh NksVh cf[k;k gksxhA ¼vkd`fr 1½
• cf[k;k NksVk&cMk djus ds fy, fLVp jsX;qysVj ukWc dks <hyk
djs rFkk cf[k;k cMk djus ds fy, Åij dh vkSj cf[k;k NksVk
djus ds fy, mij jsX;qysVj ukWc dks dl nsaA ¼vkdzfr 2½
fLVp jsX;qysVj mYVh flykbZ dk dke Hkh djrk gS ftruk flykbZ
dks can dj ldrs gS vkSj vkidks diMk mYVk djds yxkkus dh
tger ugh mBkuh iMrh gS mYVh flykbZ ds fy, ;k flykbZ dks
can djus ds fy, fLVp jsX;qysVj dks vkj ds fu”kku dh vkSj ys
tk,aA
DECORATIVE SWITCHING
14 (a) Embroidery
• Change the needle and use a thinner needle like no. 11
or 14. (Fig. 1)
• Keep stitch length lever on “0” position.
• Remove presser foot. (Fig. 3)
• Open slide plate and fix embroidery plate or turn the
fabric selector knob to embroidery position.(Fig. 3)
• Put the fabric into the embroidery frame tightly to avoid
wrinkles. (Fig. 4)
• Lift the presser foot lever to raise the presser bar.
• Insert embroidery frame on needle plate area.
• Drop the presser foot lever and start the embroidery.
(Fig. 5)
ltkoVh flaykbZ
14 ¼d½d<kbZ
• lqbZ cnys vkSj 11 ;k 14 uacj dh lqbZ tSlh iryh lqbZ
bLrseky djsaA ¼vkdzfr 1½
• flykbZ yhaoj dks Þ0Þ ij j[ksaA
• izslj QqV dks mBk,A ¼vkd`fr 2½
• LykbM IysV dks [kksys vkSj d<kbZ IysV yxkk, ;k Qsfczd
lsysDVj ukWc dks ,EczkW;Mjh ij yk,A ¼vkd`fr 3½
• diMs dks d<kbZ [kkapks esa dldj yxkk,a rkkfd diMs esa
fldqMu iSnk ugha gksA ¼vkd`fr 4½
• izslj ckj dks mBkus ds fy, izslj QqV yhoj dks mBk,aA
• d<kbZ [kakps dks lqbZ IysV ,fj;k ij j[ksaA
• izslj QqV dks uhaps djsa vkSj d<kbZ “kq: djsaA¼vkd`fr 5½
14 .b) Embroidery ( In case of Streamlined, Tailor Super
Deluxe and Butterfly)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Change the needle and use a thinner needle like no. 11 or
14.
Keep stitch length lever on ˝0˝ position.
Remove presser foot.
Open hinge type slide plate and the fabric selector knob to
embroidery position.
Put the fabric into the embroider frame tightly to avoid
wrinkles.
Lift the presser foot lever to raise the presser bar.
Insert embroidery frame on needle plate area.
Drop the presser foot lever and start thee embroidery.
14 ¼[k)
¼[k d<kbZ ¼LVheykbUM] Vsyj lqij MhyDl vkSj cVy¶ykbZ ds
lEcU/k esa½
• lqbZ cnysa vkSj 11 ;k 14 uaEcj dh lqbZ tSlh iryh lqbZ
bLrseky djsaA
• flykbZ dh yackbZ ds yhoj dks Þ0ß ij j[ksA
• izslj QqV dks mBka,A
• dCtkuqek LykbM IysV dks [kksysa vkSj Qsfczd lsysDVj ukWc
dks ,EczkW;Mjh ij yk,A
• diMsa dks d<kbZ [kkapks esa dldj yxk,a rkfd diMsa esa
fldqMu iSnk ugh gksA
• izslj ckj dks mBkus ds fy, izslj QqV yhoj dks mBk,aA
• d<kbZ [kkaps dks lqbZ IysV ,fj;k ij j[kasA
• izslj QqV dks uhps djs vkSj d<kbZ “kq: djsaA
CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
15. Cleaning the feed dogs
• Remove the needle and the presser foot.
• Remove the needle plate. Set screws with a screwdriver to
take off the feed dog teeth.
• Clean out dust and lint accumulated on the feed dog teeth.
• Reset the needle plate.
viuh e”khu dh ns[kHkky
15 QhM MkWx dh lQkbZ djuk
• lqbZ vkSj izslj QqV dks fudkysaA
• lqbZ IysV dks gVk,A e”khu csM ls IysV dks fudkyus ds fy,
,d ispdl ls issapks dks lsV djsAa
• QhM MkxW VhFk esa bdVªBh /kwy ,ao Qkgs dks lkQ djsaA
• lqbZ dh IysV dks nqckjk lsV djsaA
Open type shuttle race frame used in
TSD, Butterfly, Streamlined & Roopa
Ultra
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Closed type shuttle race frame used in
Link, Umang, Roopa family, USHA
Tailor, Tailor DLX, Tailor Suoreme,
Umang DLX, Anand, Anand DLX.
16 “kVy jsl dh lQkbZ djuk
• lh/kh flykbZ dh e”khuksa esa nks rjg dh
Two types of shuttle systems namely
“kVy iz.kkyh bLrseky gksrh gS vFkkZr can
Close and Open type are used in
vkSj [kqyhA “kVy jsl ,ElsEcyh dh le;
straight stitch machine. Timely
ij lQkbZ djus ls flykbZ e”khu dks
cleaning of shuttle race assembly helps
lq
pk: rjhds ls pykus esa enn feyrh
in smooth running of the sewing
gS
A
machine.
In case of closed type shuttle race turn
• can izdkj dks “kVy jsl ds ekeys esa
up the machine bed.
e”khu csM dks mBka,A
Raise the needle to its highest position. • lqbZ dks bldh lcls Åaph voLFkk esa
yk,aA
Remove the bobbin case by holding the
• flVduh dks idMdj fQjdh dsl dks
latch.
gVk,aA
Loosen the shuttle race screws and
• “kVy jsl ds isapks dks <hyk djsa rFkk
remove the shuttle race ring.
“kVy jsl NYyk gVk,aA
Remove the shuttle and clean it with a
• “kVy dks fudkysa vkSj ,d cqz”k ;k fdlh
brush or a soft dry cloth.
uje lw[ks diMs ls bldh lQkbZ djsaA
After cleaning put the ring into two
• NYys dks lkQ djus ds ckn NYys dks
pins on the race body. Place the spring
jsl ckWMh dh nks fiukssa esa j[ksaA ml ij
on it and tighten the screws.
fLizax yxkk, rFkk isapks dks dl nsaA
In case of open type shuttle race, lift
the hinge type slide plate; Remove the
• [kqyh izdkj dh “kVy jsl ds ekeys esa
bobbin case by holding the latches.
dCtkuqek ljdus okyh IysV dks mBk,aA
Turn the shuttle race latches and
flVduh idMdj fQjdh dsl dks
remove the ring. Take out the shuttle
fudkysaA “kVy jsl dh flVdfu;ksa dks
and clean it with brush or a soft dry
/kqek,a vkSj NYys dks fudkysaA “kVy dks
cloth.
fudkysa vkSj czq”k ;k uje lq[ks diMsa ls
After cleaning place the shuttle and put
lQkbZ
djsaA
on the ring ,
•
lQkbZ
djus ds ckn “kVy dks yxk,a
Apply a few drops of Vandana sewing
vkSj mlds mij NYyk yxk,aA
machine oil to the oiling points
indicated by the arrows in the figure. A • vkd`fr esa rhuksa }kjk fn[kk, x, rsy nsus
machine should be oiled two or three
ds LFkkuksa ij oUnuk flykbZ e”khu rsy
times a year.
dh dqN cwWnsa MkysaA ,d lky esa nks ;k
Excessive oiling is not advisable as this
rhu
ckj ,d e”khu es nks ;k rhuks ckj
will leave sports and stains the fabric.
,d e”khu rsy fn;k tkuk pkfg,A
• t:jr ls T;knk rsy nsuk mfpr ugha gS
D;ksfd blls diMs ij nkx vkSj /kCcs
iMrs gSA
16. Cleaning shuttle race
•
•
•
•
17. Oiling of machine
17 e”khu esa rsy nsuk
For maintenance and smooth operation of swing machine, it is very
important to clean and oil the machine at regular intervals In case
machine is in domestic use, oiling once in three months is is
sufficient.
flykbZ e”khu ds j[kj[kko ,ao lqpk: dkedkt ds fy, ds fy,
fu;fer le; varjky ij e”khu dh lQkbZ djuk vkSj mlesa rsy nsuk
cgqr t:jh gSA vxj e”khu /kj esa bLrseky gks jgh gS rks rhu eghus
ess rsy nsuk i;kZIr gSA
Defects/ Problems
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Action to be taken
Machine Jamming
Clean shuttle/shuttle race and remove entangled thread.
Machine runs heavy
Oil machine properly.
Disengage rubber ring of bobbin winder from balance wheel.
Check tension of belt (for treadle/motor drive)
Needle breaking
Flat side of needle should face needle bar
Tighten the clamp screw properly.
Change needle if blunt/ bent / rusted.
Thread breaking
Check the machine for correct threading.
Check if the thread passes through the tension device properly.
All surfaces over which the needle passes should be smooth without any sharp
edges.
Thread tension should not be tight.
Bobbin not winding correctly
Check rubber ring for correct bearing with balance wheel.
Check that bobbin engages properly on bobbin spindle.
Skipped stitches
Select correct needle/ thread check for bent/ proper setting of needle.
Check that there is no oil on needle, shuttle and thread.
Check that point of shuttle is not blunt, worn or broken.
Fabric puckering
Check tension on upper and bobbin case thread.
Correct size and setting of needle.
Fabric not feeding correctly
Set the stitch regulator properly.
It should not be too close toÞ0Þ
Clean feed dog and under needle plate.
Check correct pressure of pressure foot on fabric.
Tangled thread
Check if bobbin is too full.
Check if bobbin is placed in the wrong direction.
Check if bobbin case thread is drawn up and both threads are pulled back under
presser foot.
leL;k lek/kku
[kkfe¡;k @ leL;ka,
dh tkus okyh dk;Zokgh
e”khu tke py jgh gS
“kVy@”kVy jsl dks lkQ djsa vkSj my>s gq, /kkxs dks gVk,aA
e”khu Hkkjh py jgh gS
e”khu esa lgh izdkj ls rsy nsA
pDds ls fQjdh okbMj dh jcMs ds NYys dks gVk nsaA casYV ds dlko dh
tkp djs ¼ikonku@eksVj ds ekeys esa½ fQjdh dsl vkSj “kVy jsl ls my>s
gq, /kkxs dks gVk nsaA
lqbZ VwVuk
lqbZ ds likV fgLls dk eq[k uhMy ckj dh rjQ gksuk pkfg,A
DySEi isap dks lgh izdkj ls dlsaA
vxj lqbZ dh uksd [kjkc gS@eqMh gS tax yxk gS@rks mls cny nsaA
/kkxk VwVuk
/kkxk lgh izdkj ls yxk gksus ds fy, e”khu dg tkap djsaA
;g tkap djsa fd D;k /kkxk dlko iSnk djus okys midj.k ls lgh izdkj ls
fudy jgk gSA
lqbZ ftu lrgksa ij ls xqtjrh gS] os lHkh lrgsa fpduh gksuh vkSj muesa dksbZ
/kkjnkj fdukjk ugh gksuk pkfg,A /kkxs dh DokfyVh dh tkap djsA mlesa
xkBsa ugh gksuh pkkfg, vkSj muesa dksbZ /kkjnkj fdukjk ugh gksuk pkfg,A
/kkxs dk dlko VkbV ugh gksuk pkfg,A
fQjdh ij lgh izdkj ls /kkxk ugh p<uk
Tkakp djsa fd fQjdh LikbaMy ij fQjdh lgh izdkj ls yxh gSA
flykbZ NwVuk
lgh lqbZ@/kkxk pqus vkSj lqbZ ds eqMus@lgh lsfVax dh tkap djsA
tkap djs fd lqbZ]”kVy vkSj /kkxs ij rsy ugh gksA
tkap djs fd “kVy ds IokbV dh uksd [kjkc] f/klh ;k VwVh ugh gksA
diMs ij fldqMuk vkuk
Åijh vkSj fQjdh dsl ds /kkxs dlko dh tkap djsaA
lqbZ dk lgh vkdkj vkSj lsfVxA
diMk lgh rjhds ls vkxs ugh c<uk
fLVp jsX;qysVj dks lgh izdkj ls lsV djsaA
;g ß0ß ds cgqr T;knk utnhdh ugh gksuk pkfg,A
QhM MkWx dks cgqr T;knk utndh ugh gksuk pkfg,A
diMs ij izslj QqV ds lgh ncko dh tkap djsaA
mYk>k gqvk /kkxk
tkap djsa fd dgh fQjdh T;knk rks ugh Hkjh gSA
tkap djs fd D;k fQjdh dh xyr fn”kk rks ugha yxh gSA
tkap djs fd D;k fQjdh dj /kkxk dudyk gqvk gS vkSj nksuksa /kkxksa dks
okil f[kapdj izslj QqV ds uhps vk jgs gSA
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