©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Northeastern Thailand Why Go? Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) .....................408 Phimai .........................414 Ubon Ratchathani . ....428 Khon Kaen . ................439 Udon Thani . ...............448 Nong Khai ..................454 Loei . ...........................464 Chiang Khan ..............466 Nakhon Phanom ........ 473 That Phanom ............. 476 Sakon Nakhon . .......... 479 Mukdahan ..................482 Yasothon ....................486 Roi Et ..........................488 Best Places to Eat For travellers and Thais alike, the northeast is Thailand’s forgotten backyard. Isan (ee·săhn), as it’s called, offers a glimpse of the Thailand of old: rice fields run to the horizon, water buffalo wade in muddy ponds, silk weavers work looms under their homes, and pedal-rickshaw drivers pull passengers down city streets. If you have a penchant for authentic experiences, it will surely be satisfied here. Spend even a little time in this colossal corner of the country and you’ll discover as many differences as similarities to the rest of Thailand. The language, food and culture are more Lao than Thai, with hearty helpings of Khmer and Vietnamese thrown into the mix. And spend time here you should, because it’s home to some of Thailand’s best historic sites, national parks and festivals. Thailand’s tourist trail is at its bumpiest here (English is rarely spoken), but the fantastic attractions and daily interactions could end up being highlights of your entire trip. When to Go ¨¨Only 1% of foreign travellers who come to Thailand visit ¨¨Baan Yai (p468) Isan, so you don’t need to worry about high and low seasons. ¨¨Bao Pradit (p487) ¨¨The relatively cool dry season from November through ¨¨Turm-Rom (p445) Best Places to Stay February is the most comfortable time to visit, and the Surin Elephant Round-up in November is one festival worth planning your travels around. ¨¨As the hot season (March to May, when temperatures can ¨¨Ban Kham Pia (p475) climb over 40°C) comes to a close, towns and villages across the region, most famously Yasothon, launch giant homemade rockets into the sky to call for rain. ¨¨Baan Chang Ton (p427) ¨¨Isan is at its most beautiful during the rainy season (June ¨¨Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse (p461) ¨¨Bouy Guesthouse (p466) ¨¨Huean Yai Bab Pa (p471) to October) when the forests and rice paddies turn green and the waterfalls run wild. Dan Sai’s Phi Ta Khon Festival (June) and Ubon Ratchathani’s Candle Parade (July) attract hordes of Thai tourists. 4 08 Northeastern Thailand Highlights 1 Getting Northe astern Thail and e Na S leep astern k h oi n gRTatc h a ih lan s idmHa i g Pr hov l i gi nce h ts awestruck by the scenery in Pha Taem National Park (p440) 2 Having a blast at a Rocket Festival 3 Looking for elephants, tigers, pythons, monkeys and more in Khao Yai National Park (p419) Ban Ahong LAOS Kaen Thao 5 Climbing the rickety walkways up the mountain at Wat Phu Tok (p475) 6 Travelling along the Mekong River. Phu Reua National Park Phu Reua Loei Tham Erawan 201 Na Klang 210 Phu Luang National Park Phu Luang (1571m) NONG BUALAMPHU Phu Kradueng National Park Nam Nao National Park Pha Pha Jit (1271m) Kheuan Chulaphon Chumphae Khon Kaen 2 Tat Ton National Park 8 Eating sôm·đam Nong Bua Khok Bua Yai Khong Na Pho Phisai 202 2 205 Phimai Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) 2 Sung Noen Pak Chong 24 Ban Ta Klang 219 Buriram Dan Kwian Pak Thong Chai Ma e Sateuk Ban Prasat Kheuan Lam Ta Khong 23 Borabeu 219 Prasat Puay Noi MAHASARAKHAM Phon 202 Kamalasai 208 Ban Phai 201 Kalasin Mahasarakham Chonnabot with elephants in Ban Ta Klang (p429) the surreal at Wat Pa Non Sawan (p492) Kheuan Lam Pao King Cobra Village 201 Chaiyaphum Wang Sam Mo U Ratbaon na Ban Fang Phu Khiaw CHAIYAPHUM Mor Hin Khow Nong Bua Daeng (spicy papaya salad) and drinking lôw kŏw (rice whisky) with the locals Kumphawapi Phu Wiang KHON National Park KAEN 12 Chaiwan Non Sa At Si Buan Ruang Phu Kradueng Si Chompu Kaset Sombun 225 22 UDON THANI Nong Bualamphu Sawan Dan Din Ban Chiang Udon Thani Na Duang Wang Saphung Sang Khom 2 Ban Pheu NONG KHAI Phon Phisai 212 Nong Khai Tha Bo Ban Pak Huay LOEI Tha Li 7 Making friends 9 Succumbing to Sangkhom VIENTIANE Nam Som Chiang Khan 4 Stepping back in time at the restored Angkor-era temple complexes of Phanom Rung Historical Park (p423) and Phimai (p417) Pak Chom Xanakham BUENG KHAN Pak Khat Ban Khwao Sinarin BURIRAM Nang Rong Surin 214 Prakhon Prasat Ban Phluang Chai Prasat Ban Prasat Ta Kruat Meuan Phanom Rung 23 NAKHON Historical Park Khao Yai Pakham National Park RATCHASIMA Khok Song Khao Ta Leo Lahan Thap Lan Samram NAKHON (861m) Sai National Park Som Poi NAYOK Amphil Lam Nam 348 Phu Sam Ngam Rong Kheuan Khao PRACHINBURI (949m) Bara Nae Chong Tako 33 Ta Phraya Kabinburi SA KAEW Sa Kaew 23 Aranya Prathet 317 CHACHOENGSAO 348 CAMBODIA Poipet Sisophon