MGFNZ Newsletter July 2014

The MGF Register
July 2014
MGCC Auckland Centre Inc.
PO Box 89235 Torbay, Auckland 0742, New Zealand
Welcome:
Fellow F enthusiasts lets start with a resounding thanks to Michael Wood, for all his efforts
over the years in maintaining and organising the F/TF register. Mike without your enthusiasm
and dedication our Fraternity would not be in such great shape.
Alan Thorn is the new convener for the F/TF register. If you want a little bit more information
about me please look at the June Newsletter, for an introduction to my MG history.
The 2013-14year has been an interesting one for F owners with the first ever truly F / TF
focused event being organised by John Eames at Mangaweka. 27 MGF owners from all over
the North Island, Auckland (7) and BOP (4), gathered at Mangaweka in February for the
inaugural F/ TF Festival which was a resounding success, expect a repeat next year. I’ve
already booked my spot.
A TF featured at the Ellerslie Inter-Marque Concours D’elegance with a “Back to the Future”
theme suiting the MG90 celebrations perfectly. The club team of Kim Walkers TC and Maria
Rogans TF LE80 acquitted themselves with a second placing, 1021 points from a possible
th
1180 and only 2 points behind the winning Mustang Club, the TF placed 6 overall. I hope we
can have a F/TF team representing MG in 2015.
A word of thanks to those of you who have contributed articles to the register newsletter keep
them coming. Despite a huge amount of information on the web we are all interested in what
you have to share in the way of local technical articles, modifications and maintenance tips.
th
2015 brings the 20 year celebrations for the F so prepare to make a special effort to
celebrate this milestone by participating in an F Register event next year.
Finally, I look forward to meeting as many F and TF owners in the coming year at as many
events as is possible for me at attend. Remember it’s still MG90 celebrations and some great
events are planned- MG’s on Track and the MG Classic Marathon in September are events
not to be missed.
Safety Fast Regards
F Register Run:
to AGM
Get you car out and polished and come join fellow F/TF owners for a Register Run to the
AGM at Mangatangi Hall, 1517 Kaiaua Rd. Catered Lunch $25/head Booking & Payment in
advance essential. Contact [email protected]
Meet at:
10:15 am
10:30 am
BP Autobahn Southern Motorway
Departure
Thanks to Dave & Carol Walkerfor plotting the run this year
F Register:
Coming Soon
As F/FT owners you often as I do wonder about how many examples of this car are in New
Zealand?
Ian Grant [Historian for the MGC Register] is also an F owner and has put his talents into
gathering as much information as he can from Carjam and we applaud him for this labour of
love.
For the record Ianʼs research has determined that there are ;
1559
10
54
Mk1 MGF
MY2000 MGF
MGTF
With Ianʼs permission and Neil Courtneyʼs assistance I plan to get this list up on the web site
ASAP. Then will begin the task of reconciliation with Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and
Otago Centres to identify owners currently members of the MG fraternity.
If Neil can arrange it we will allow you to forward your ownership and contact information (plus
engine numbers, changes in rego plates, any modifications etc) about your car to a moderator
for inclusion with Ianʼs data.
Ian also found 19 MGZRʼs, 7 MGZSʼs and 37 MGZTʼs (including 6 MGZT V8ʼs and 2 ZT-T
V8ʼs.
If you are interested in the history of your car then Dieterʼs site in Germany
w w w. mgfcar.de apart from being a wealth of information also maintains records of
vehicle details ex Longbridge and a quick email or registration via Dieterʼs site
http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=de&langpair=de%
7Cen&prev=/language_tools&rurl=translate.google.com&u=http:// w w w.mgfcar.de
/vin/index.htm&usg=ALkJrhifrmpCtHdGhUnlh5khZQeEjVSoEw
will reveal some interesting information about your carʼs production date and export date
as well as confirming VIN and Engine numbers are correct as per factory records. As
well as detailing where to find the appropriate numbers.
Confirmed:
MG is building a new roadster
MG has begun work on a new two-seater sports car to succeed the MG TF, and it
will arrive before the end of the decade.
A spiritual successor to the MG TF two-seat sports car will enter production soon, an inside source has
confirmed. And although thereʼs no official launch date it should be on sale well before the end of this
decade.
Speaking exclusively to Auto Express, an MG
insider confirmed bosses have been
discussing a return to the open-top sports car
market, and want to make it happen just as
soon as the British brand has re- established
itself under SAIC owner- ship.
As a result an exact timeframe has not yet
been agreed, however MG recently revealed
itʼs working on two new vehicle architectures,
one of which will be designed capable to
support a compact roadster, according to our source.
Both these platforms are being de- signed to offer similar levels of flexibility as the VW Groupʼs MQB
layout, with the ability to large numbers of components and engines to help slim down costs. And itʼs
believed the twin architectures will see four new MG models launched across different markets by 2020.
While a sports car, is clearly a perfect fit for the
MG brand, and just what it needs to build
worldwide recognition, itʼs understood that its
chances of reaching showroom hinges on the
success of volume models that will come to
market first.
The most important of these is a SUV based on
the CS Concept, due in 2015, while a Ford
Focus rivalling MG5 is also in the pipeline along
with a more compact Nissan Juke sized SUV.
Chinese based SAICʼs UK Technical Centre is
also working on a number of new engine
families, including higher power 1.5-litre and
2.0-litre turbocharged petrol units ideal for a sports
car application.
While a traditional front engined, rear wheel drive layout is believed to be the front runner for a new MG
sports car, the MG TF successor might not be the only roadster in the lineup either. Bosses are still
weighing up the production possibilities of the convertible version Icon concept – creating a halo model
for the brand that should go down well in China, where sports cars only make a tiny percentage of total
sales.
Modifications:
Easy Close Access Flap
Tired of forgetting to close engine oil/water access flap on your F and having it foul the boot
when you shut it. The MG solution was to simply remove the flap on the TF.
You could simply remove the flap on your F like the later TF, but hereʼs another solution.
This is a simple modification to rectify the problem, however it does require changing the
originality of the car. If the annoyance of the operation of the access flap, is more important to
you than originality, its time to proceed.
Retaining the flap, it is possible to reverse the
direction of the hinge and solve the problem.
Three small screws hold the plastic access
flap and work as a hinge. As this flap is a
mirror of the one on the LH side of the car it
also has three location lugs on the opposite
edge. So it is possible (with small alterations)
to reverse lid so it automatically folds in the
same direction as boot lid.
Remove the wire frame from the car, this
avoids dropping screws and swarf into the
engine bay.
Open the access flap and remove the
access flap by taking out the three screws
that hold it to the metal rod..
Place the flap back in position and mark the
RH rear corner at about 32 mm from the RH
edge (so it will clear the metal bar that clips
onto the boot edge) and 10 mm from the rear
edge -see white taped area on flap in
picture.
Use a coping saw to remove this portion of
the flap, so that the flap passes the wire
frame. If you just want the flap to open, you
will have to support it whilst open as the rear
wire restricts a stay open position, it can now
be re-installed.
I prefer this mode of operation as it means
that the flap doesnʼt stay open after youʼve
checked to oil/water
Attach the flap to the new hing wire, at the
rear, using the 3 existing screws, now located
in the previously unused sockets.
Now the flap closes in the same direction as
the boot lid.
Test opening works OK.
Reinstall wire frame into car.
Rear Wire Modification – Stay Open Operation
Now work at the rear wire.
Cut it in the middle.
Bend both-sides to the rear and back so
that the flap can be opened more than 70
degrees.
Close the gab between both wire ends
with a 4mm inner diameter pipe. Put the
parts together with some 2 components
epoxy adhesive.
Paint.
Or use a heat shrink pipe.
Ugly !
Attach the flap to the new hing wire, at the
rear, using the 3 existing screws, now
located in the unused sockets
Test opening works to approx 70º.
OK.
Reinstall wire frame into car.\
Now the flap remain open but closes
automatic when you close the boot lid.
Finished job.
Service:
Re-proofing your hood
HOOD REPROOFING
Is your hood looking dull and unloved? does it beed water like a freshly polished car..
hereʼs a way to get it looking great and waterproof again.
Assuming you have a factory original hood in good repair (ie no rips or tears).
If you have an aftermarket mohair hood then I'm not sure the following advice applies
! But I don't see why not, I've not tested on a mohair hood that's all.
First job is to wash the hood well with a gentle detergent I used Softly wool wash,
give it a good brush to help loosen ingrained dirt a nail brush or soft clothes brush is
perfect, rinse well 2x.
Let it dry completely then re brush (dry) & vacuum up any loosened dirt.
I've successfully used NiWax XT Proofer but any good Gortex waterproofer will be
OK. Lionel used a canvass proffer sourced from an outdoor centre with great results.
XT is a white milky product. Cover paint work with old towels. Take care not to get
proofer on paint as it tends to dry quickly & leave an impossible to remove residue,
same applies to windows.
Spray XT Proofer on liberally and work in with nail brush and a flat hand try to get an
even and complete cover (less is more if you get my drift) and work well into seams
and around rear window.
Leave to dry in garage with a good draught or fan
Then stick the car outside on a hot sunny day to fix surface same as using a clothes
dryer for Gortex jackets!
I then gave mine a misting to check that I'd achieved good coverage - re-proof any
missed patches that will be obvious as water won't bead up.
If you're happy with coverage give it a good rinse off with fresh water and wash paint
work with your usual car detergent & dry off to remove any Proofer reside on
paintwork. Failing to do this might result in streaks on paintwork if you have light rain
when you first use hood BEWARE.
My re-proofing has lasted 3 years so far so it's worth taking time to do a good job.
ANTI JAMMING STRAPS
Just one word of advice be careful
folding hood down its easy to get the
fabric caught in the hood bows scissor
action resulting in cuts. I notice them on
quite a few hoods. Install some antijamming straps to avoid this problem.
Available on eBay for about $21 I have
them on both my F & TF makes folding
the hood a breeze.
Technical:
Demobilisers
Ian Grant
Our beloved MGFs/TFs are a delight to drive but some of us have experienced both
the highs and lows of ownership.
I purchased my first MGF in mid-2003, an ex-Japan VVC with 44k on the odo, until
parting with it in mid-2010 when it had covered 117k. During that time the F
performed well, including giving us two highly enjoyable touring holidays of the South
Island. Terry Kelk carried out its service work and at the time it was due for its 80k
service, I noticed a film on top of the water in the header tank, so the head gasket
was replaced. Terry discovered the head had been removed earlier in the carʼs life,
sometime in Japan.
Some VVCs have experienced engine problems, unique to that engine, i.e cam belts
coming loose resulting in bent valves, the problem not helped by MG Rover stating
an incorrect torque setting for the cam wheels in the workshop manual.
During the latter part of 2009, with the VVCʼs mileage getting up, I looked around for
a replacement and, on TradeMe, found a 2001 1.6i in Wellington. The price looked
right for a 21k mile MGF.
So, on Melbourne Cup Day, I flew to Wellington and did the deal and had a good trip
back to Auckland. This MGF had been brought to New Zealand by a family
emigrating from the UK.
MG Rover produced the MGF 1.6i for a couple of years in direct competition with the
Mazda MX5. The F was low spec, therefore no air conditioning and no central
locking. There were two keys on the ring, plus the key fob. Both doors are locked
with the ignition key, while the other key is for the boot. The key fob can be
completely ignored in the locking/unlocking process, but when the car is locked, a
press of the “lock” button sets the alarm.
With the car in this mode, unlocking with the key in the driverʼs door also turns off the
alarm. On one occasion the car was in this fully locked/alarmed mode and I
inadvertently unlocked the passenger door first, which set off the alarm.
Unlike the 1.8i and VVC with central locking, the key fob on the 1.6i has gone for
lengthy periods without being used. As the car is in reasonably secure parking at
work, I lock it but a lot of the time donʼt set the alarm, though I have noticed
sometimes locking the car with the key does turn it on.
Unlike my VVC, the 1.6i has been a nightmare and a lot of money has been spent
getting it to where it is today, the last episode in September last year - but thatʼs
another story that could be spread over several newsletters.
So, where is this story leading to?
Well, in January this year, an interesting issue occurred which looked like another
expensive repair was going to be required. I went to start the car one morning and
when turning the key to the ignition position, the sound of a still active engine
immobiliser could be heard, which then cleared itself and I then started the car.
1.8i and VVC owners can hear this if the car is locked with the remote, then unlocked
with the key, rather than the remote. Try starting the car now, no go, and the
accompanying chime indicates the immobiliser is still active. I experienced this once
with my VVC, when the proximity of a cellphone tower proved too powerful for the
remote to get its signal to the aerial in the car. Incidentally, if you donʼt know, the
receiving aerial is a wire that is located behind the lamp in the passengerʼs footwell.
On that particular occasion, following telephone instructions from Terry Kelk, and as I
was only a couple of kilometres from home, I got my wife to bring me some tinfoil,
which I wrapped around the remote and my hand, then held the remote very close to
that footwell lamp, trying to block out the cell towerʼs signal as much as possible. It
worked.
But, back to January. The problem reared itʼs head a few more times, but seemed to
rectify itself by turning the key off, then back to the ignition position and start the car.
But, trying to ignore this as long as possible as I could hear my wallet gasping for
breath, the dreaded day arrived when I went to the garage to get the car for the trip to
work and found the immobiliser was past the point of no return.
With Dougʼs help (from Paul Walbran Motors) over the phone, several things were
tried but to no avail. We were somewhat hamstrung as Paulʼs T4 test unit was away
being serviced in the UK, so the F spent some time in the garage at home with the
MGC being used for the daily commute.
Eventually the T4 returned and Tom came over to the house and connected the test
gear up and, with a new battery in the remote as well, we had a successful outcome.
I also have a record of the EKA code, which all MGF owners should have noted
somewhere. This is the code that can be used with the key in the door to bring the
engine electronics back into synchronisation. An interesting exercise and a lot was
learned especially as this is a non-central locking vehicle.
End of story - well, not quite.
A couple of weeks ago I attempted to start the car and the immobiliser chime kicked
in and no start. NOT AGAIN!!! I can fix this, use the EKA code, thatʼs what itʼs for. No
luck. Was I now in for an expensive engine electronics replacement? Each day for
the next week I tried the EKA code with no success. When the door was locked and
unlocked, the click from behind the dashboard could be heard so the signal was
getting through from the door lock. I even attempted an invalid EKA code, knowing
that if incorrect, the car horn sounds to indicate a wrong code. This happened, so the
message was getting through. But, still no luck.
The design of the remote leaves a bit to be desired as it is not easy for an owner to
check if the remote is working properly. With the car locked, I tried to set the alarm,
without success. It canʼt be the battery in the remote, that was new in January.
Desperate situations require desperate measures. Back to basics. For $6, buy a new
battery for the remote and install it. There is a very informative video on the internet,
Google “MGF key fob” and it shows how to fit the battery and synchronise it with the
car.
So, out to the garage to start from scratch. Lock the car. Synchronise the fob with the
car. Stand next to the passengerʼs door with a direct line to the receiving aerial.
Press the lock button on the fob four times as in the video. Hello, the indicator lights
come on - has this set the alarm? Open the boot lid - sure has!!
Press the unlock button on the remote and the alarm turns off. With a little trepidation
I unlocked the driverʼs door, put the key in the ignition and……….
no immobiliser chime - car started!!!
A $6 battery fixed the problem. The other one lasted just six months. The moral of
this story is “Change that remote battery every 12 months, just to be on the safe
side”.
Ian Grant
Servicing & Repairs
The MGF and TF are not particularly complex cars, but there are certain aspects of
their design which means that it is important to use mechanics who have some
experience in the models. Over the years the Club has heard a number of sad tales
of new owners who have used local garages for repair, and ended up with substandard work an ongoing problems with their cars.
Prior to the demise of MG Rover in 2005, there were two authorized MG Rover
dealers in Auckland. Roverland on Wairau Rd, Takapuna and Newmarket Roverland
has reduced their MG and Rover involvement. Roverland does however remain an
MG Rover parts and service outlet.
The following independent garages also have significant MGF/TF experience:
Paul Walbran Motors
Many club members will know Paul & Bronwyn Walbran through their long club
membership and their spare parts business.
In July 2013 Paul & Bron opened an MG workshop, catering to all MGʼs including
MGF/TF on which their team is also experienced.
Doug Dingle has developed a method of re-gassing the hydragas suspension
systems. Paul has owned a 1996 MGF since new so has seventeen years MGF
experience.
1 Stock Street, New Lynn
(09) 817 8194
www.mgparts.co.nz
Stag 4x4
Stag is run by Morris Turner and started out specializing in the Triumph Stag,
subsequently moving to specialize in Land Rover and Range Rover. Two of their
team have overseas experience working with the MGF, and they hold a number of
parts.
37 Veronica St, New Lynn
(09) 827 4233
www.stag4x4.co.nz
NOTE: we do not specifically recommend the service of any one garage, nor does
the MG Car Club have any links to particular suppliers.
PARTS
Lawrie and Jenny Steer have been MG enthusiasts based in Christchurch form many
years. They have wrecked an number of Fʼs and TFʼs that have met their demise and
if your looking for a second hand part they are well worth a contact.
32 Pinewood Close
RD2
Kaiapoi
(03) 312 6913
[email protected]
If anyone has experience of any other garages who have proved useful in repairing
MGF and TF, please advise me and it will be placed in the next newsletter.

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