HOWTOUSETHISE-BOOK
Gettingaroundthee-book
ThisInsightGuidee-bookisdesignedtogiveyouinspirationforyourvisittotheItalianLakes,aswell
ascomprehensiveplanningadvicetomakesureyouhavethebesttravelexperience.Theguidebegins
withourselectionofTopAttractions,aswellasourEditor’sChoicecategoriesofactivitiesand
experiences.Detailedfeaturesonhistory,peopleandculturepaintavividportraitofcontemporarylifein
theItalianLakes.TheextensivePlaceschaptersgiveacompleteguidetoallthesightsandareasworth
visiting.TheTravelTipsprovidefullinformationongettingaround,activitiesfromculturetoshoppingto
sport,plusawealthofpracticalinformationtohelpyouplanyourtrip.
IntheTableofContentsandthroughoutthise-bookyouwillseehyperlinkedreferences.Justtapa
hyperlinkoncetoskiptothesectionyouwouldliketoread.Practicalinformationandlistingsarealso
hyperlinked,soaslongasyouhaveanexternalconnectiontotheinternet,youcantapalinktogodirectly
tothewebsiteformoreinformation.
Maps
AllkeyattractionsandsightsintheItalianLakesarenumberedandcross-referencedtohigh-qualitymaps.
Whereveryouseethereference[map]justtapthistogostraighttotherelatedmap.Youcanalsodoubletapanymapforazoomview.
Images
You’llfindhundredsofbeautifulhigh-resolutionimagesthatcapturetheessenceoftheItalianLakes.
Simplydouble-taponanimagetoseeitfull-screen.
AboutInsightGuides
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outandshop,soyoucanbeconfidentthatwhenwesayaplaceisspecial,wereallymeanit.
©2017ApaDigital(CH)AGandApaPublications(UK)Ltd
TableofContents
ItalianLakes’sTop10Attractions
Editor’sChoice
Introduction:AGloriousLocation
TheModernLakes
DecisiveDates
TheMakingoftheLakes
ArtandArchitecture
WildlifeoftheItalianAlps
Insight:OnthePiste
CelebrityPlayground
Insight:TheGrandHotels
ATasteoftheLakes
Introduction:Orientation
Verona
Introduction:LakeGarda
EasternLakeGarda
Insight:TimefortheKids
WesternLakeGarda
Insight:LakeGardaontheWater
NorthernLakeGardaandTrentino
Brescia
Insight:SpaHeaven
LakeIseo,FranciacortaandValCamonica
Bergamo
LakeComo
Insight:ComoBoatTour
Lugano
Varese
LakeMaggiore
Insight:LakeMaggioreExpress
Insight:Gardener’sGlory
LakeOrta
Milan
Insight:MilanStyle–TheLittleBlackBook
Transport
A-Z:AHandySummaryofPracticalInformation
UnderstandingtheLanguage
FurtherReading
ITALIANLAKES’STOP10ATTRACTIONS
Here,ataglance,aretheregion’smust-seesandmust-dos:art,ancientandinspirational;
extraordinarybuildings,fromthestrangeVittorialetothedramaticArcocastle;grand
operaintheVeronaArena;andofcourse,stunningscenery.
TopAttraction1
Castles.ArmiesofcrenellatedcastlesmarchdownthevalleysofTrentino,protectingtheancient
boundariesbetweenAustriaandVenice.Arco,nearLakeGarda,isoneofthemostdramatic.Formore
information,clickhere.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
TopAttraction2
Bellagio.Tree-linedwalkwaysandgrandhotelslineBellagio’swaterfrontonLakeComo,animposing
sightbestviewedfromthedeckofaprivateyacht.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
Shutterstock
TopAttraction3
Milan’sshoppingdistrict.Whetherit’sblack-sequinnedunderpantsoradiamond-encrustedwatch,the
placetospendyourmoneyisintheaptlynamedQuadrilaterod’Oro(GoldenSquare),anetworkof
narrowstreetsfromViadellaSpigatoPiazzaDuomofilledwithhighfashionfromthefabuloustothe
ridiculous.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
TopAttraction4
Wines.ChooseyourtipplefromarichredBardolinoorValpolicella,asmoothSoave,light-headed
TrentinoorbubblyFranciacorta.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
iStock
TopAttraction5
IsolaBella.Sculptedtolooklikeaship,namedafteracountessandplantedwithtoweringterraces,there
isnothingnaturalaboutIsolaBella,butitisstillamagnificentislandgarden.Formoreinformation,click
here.
Shutterstock
TopAttraction6
ParcoAdamello-Brenta.SpanningtheborderbetweenBresciaandTrentino,thisisahavenofwildlife,
fromedelweissandchamoistobearsandgoldeneagles.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
iStock
TopAttraction7
IlVittoriale.ThewarriorpoetandFascistsupporterGabrieleD’AnnunziowasanItalianhero−and
probablybarkingmad.ThefantasyvillahebuiltforhimselfonLakeGardaisaplaceofstrongemotion
andstrangedecor.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
Fotolia
TopAttraction8
Verona’sArenaFestival.Wherelionsonceroared,sopranosnowsoarasgrandoperafillstheancient
Romanarena.Unmissable,spectacularandwithgloriousmusicinoneofItaly’smostimposing
monuments–aperfectpackage.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
TopAttraction9
OrtaSanGiulio.Alegendaryisland,brightlypaintedfishingboats,andfrescoespaintedonthewallsof
amedievalpiazza,makethisvillageontheshoresoflittleLakeOrtaalmostimpossiblyromantic.For
moreinformation,clickhere.
iStock
TopAttraction10
RivadelGarda.Astunningsetting,gracedbyacastle,aVenetianfortressandtheimpressivecliffsof
MonteRocchetta.Nearby,visittheGrottaCascateVarone,awaterfallcascadingthroughacanyon.For
moreinformation,clickhere.
GettyImages
EDITOR’SCHOICE
Thefinestviews,prettiestvillasandgardensandbestfamilyoutings–hereare
suggestionsforthebestofwhattodoandwhattosee,ataglance.
WheretoSee
LeonardodaVinci.Leonardo’sfadedmasterpiece,TheLastSupper,attheChurchandConventofSanta
MariadelleGrazieinMilan,isoneofItaly’smostvisitedsights.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
GiuseppeVerdi.ThegreatcomposerlivedandworkedformostofhisadultlifeinMilan,premieringall
hisgreatoperasatLaScala.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
GaetanoDonizetti.BorninBergamoandaprolificoperaticcomposer,Donizettiworkedallover
Europebeforereturningtohishometowntodie.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
RomeoandJuliet.Theymaybefictional,buttheysupposedlylivedanddiedinVerona.Boththefamous
lovershavehousesandJuliethasatomb,carefullychosenbythetouristoffice.Formoreinformation,
clickhere.
GeorgeClooney.GorgeousGeorgeownstheVillaOleandraatLaglioonLakeComoandisaregular
visitor,alongwithmanyA-listpals.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
TheVersaces.GianniVersacechosetobeburiedathisbelovedVillaLeFontanelleatMoltrasioon
LakeComo.Thefamilyarestillregularvisitors.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
HermannHesse.TheNobelprize-winningwriterandpainterlivedintowerroomsinMontagnolanear
Luganofrom1919to1931.Theyarenowamuseumtohislifeandworks.Formoreinformation,click
here.
SacredSights
TheSacriMonti.NowaUnescoWorldHeritagesite,thesesacredmountainsinOrta(formore
information,clickhere),Varese(formoreinformation,clickhere),Ghiffa,LakeMaggiore(formore
information,clickhere)andOssuccio,LakeComo(formoreinformation,clickhere)formaglorious
processionofchapelsleadingpilgrimstohilltopchurches.
SantaCaterinadelSasso,Maggiore.Gettingtothiscliffsidehermitagerequiresstrongknees,witha
choiceof80stepsupor267stepsdown.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
MilanDuomo.AfabulousGothicconfectionofacathedralwhereyoucandanceamongthegargoyles.
Formoreinformation,clickhere.
SanTomé,Bergamo.Anenchantingmedievalroundchapelinthewoods.Formoreinformation,click
here.
SacroMonte,Varese.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
FamilyFavourites
Goforaride.HeadtoGardaland,Italy’slargestthemepark.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
Makeasplash.ChooseawaterparknearLakeGardaorMilan.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
Goonsafari.ParcoNaturaVivaisoneofEurope’sbestanimalparks–completewithdinosaurs!For
moreinformation,clickhere.
Getwet.Takeatowelandheaddowntothelakeforaswim.Choosefromhundredsofkilometresof
shorelineandhundredsoflakes.
Gofast.Hireaspeed-boatbythehourordayorfromanyofthemainresorts.
Rewardyourself.SamplethedeliciousdelightsofItalianicecreamatalocalgelateria.
ChilloutwiththechimpsatParcoNaturaViva.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Art–AncientandModern
Mart.Roveretoisanunlikelyplacetofindworld-classmodernartfromWarholtoRauschenberg.For
moreinformation,clickhere.
VillaPanza,Varese.Perfectpaintingifyoulikeyourcanvasesmonochrome–modernartinan18thcenturysetting.Itworks.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
PinacotecadiBrera.SuperbMilancollectionofgrandmastersfromTintorettoandTitiantoCanaletto.
Formoreinformation,clickhere.
ValCamonica,Brescia.Oneoftheworld’sgreatestandoldestartcollections,some140,000
petroglyphscarvedover8,000years.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
Arcumeggia,Varese.Sincethe1950s,manyartistshavebeenaddingmuralstothestreetsofthis
mountainvillage,creatinganextraordinaryoutdoorgallery.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
Petroglyphs,ValCamonica.
FototecaENIT
Gardalandthrills.
GettyImages
Luganowaterfront.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
WaterfrontWandering
LuganoCity.AnArtNouveauhorseshoecrescentofglitteringglamourbeneathtoweringmountains.For
moreinformation,clickhere.
Salò.ThelongestwaterfrontonGardaandthemostpleasanttowalk.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
Sirmione.Shufflealongbehindtherestoftheworldinthischarmingbutovercrowdedtourismjewelon
LakeGarda.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
Pallanza.Strollinthegardens,thenadmirethesunsetinthisquietresortonMaggiore.Formore
information,clickhere.
Varenna.OleanderslinethepathinthisprettiestofComotowns.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
HighPoints
MonteBrè,Lugano.Takethefunicularordriveupseeminglyendlesshairpinbendsforstaggeringly
beautifulviewsoverLakeLuganoandthecity.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
MonteGeneroso.Since1890,acograilwayhasbeenhaulingtouristsuptothetopofthismountainnear
LakeLuganowithunparalleled360°viewsfromthetop.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
MonteBaldo.ExpectlongqueuestogetupthecablecarnearMalcesineonLakeGarda,withits
spectacularviewsandmountainbikinginsummer,andskislopesinwinter.Formoreinformation,click
here.
MonteMottarone.ThispicturesqueridgebetweenLakeMaggioreandLakeOrtaboastssuperbviews
upintotheAlps–sadlythecablecarhasbeenoutoforderforawhilebuttherearewalkstothetopfor
thosekeenandfit.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
RoccadiManerba.Muchshorterandharderworkthanthecable-carruns,youneedtoclimbthisrocky
promontorythattowersovertheManerbacoastlineofLakeGarda,withlovelyviewsandwildflowers
astheprize.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
MonteSanPrimo,LakeComo.OnacleardaytheyclaimyoucanseefromMontBlanctoMilan
Duomofromthispeak,whichisprimeskiterritoryinwinter.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
PickaPalazzo
VillaCarlotta,Como.Thiselegant17th-centurymansionsetinlushformalterracedgardenswasgiven
toAlbertofPrussia’sdaughterCarlottaasaweddingpresent.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
VilladelBalbianello,Como.An18th-centuryvillathathasfeaturedinStarWarsandJamesBondfilms,
housedmonks,militaryandexplorers.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
VillaCicognaMozzoni,Varese.AseamlessRenaissancevillawithformalgardenskeptmuchasthey
wereover400yearsago.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
VillaCarlotta.
Dreamstime
Gardener’sWorld
Sigurtà.HirebikesortakethelittletraintogetroundthehugeparksouthofLakeGardawithoutwearing
yourfeetout.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
IsolaMadre.AnidyllicislandgardenonLakeMaggiore,withlushtropicalplantingandEnglishdesign.
Formoreinformation,clickhere.
GiardinoBotanicoFondazioneAndreHeller,Gardone.Animaginativesmallgardenonthewestshore
ofLakeGarda,borrowingthemesandplantingfromaroundtheworld.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
GiardinoAlpinia.HugemountainsandtinyplantscombinetomakethisAlpinegardenonMonte
MottaroneaboveStresaoneofthemostunusualintheregion.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
VillaMelzi.Thisstunning19th-centurygardenonComocombinesEnglishinformalitywithoriental
exoticism.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
VillaTaranto.AmagnificentScottishdreamofagardenatPallanza,Maggiore.Formoreinformation,
clickhere.
SeealsoGardener’sGloryphotofeature,clickhere.
Thereare360°viewsfromthesummitofMonteBaldo,onLakeGarda.
iStock
DiaryDates
MilanFashionWeek.TwiceayearthefashioncaravanlandsinMilan.Thisisreallyforthetradeandis
invitationonly,butthereisarealbuzzintheairandceleb-spottingisrife.Formoreinformation,click
here.
WorldFireworksChampionships.Omegna,onLakeOrta,goesonefurtherthanmosttownstocelebrate
itslocalsaint’sdaywithatwo-weekpyrotechnicschampionship.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
SoundsoftheDolomites.SeveralweeksoffreemusicfromJunetoAugust,fromsymphonyorchestrasto
worldmusic,ininspirationalsettingsintheTrentinomountains,reachedbycablecar.Formore
information,clickhere.
MilleMiglia.Italy’soldestandmostprestigiouscarrally,fromBrescia.Formoreinformation,clickhere
.
Centomiglia.ThebiggestregattaonLakeGardaandthemostimportantregattaonanylakeinEurope.For
moreinformation,clickhere.
EstivalJazz.Along-establishedfree,open-airjazzfestivalinLuganoandMendrisio,attractingthe
biggestinternationalnames.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
PaliodelBaradello.Como’scolourfultwo-weekhistoriccelebrationsofthedefeatofMilanby
FrederickBarbarossain1159.Formoreinformation,clickhere.
ArenaFestival.Asensationalsummer-longoperaseasoninVerona’sRomanamphitheatre.Formore
information,clickhere.
GiardinoBotanicoblooms,Gardone.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
TheWorldFireworksChampionshipsonLakeOrta.
Fotolia
LakeGarda,aperfectblendofAlpineandMediterraneanscenery.
GettyImages
CyclingonthelakesideatToscolano-Maderno.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
ApproachingIsoladeiPescatori,LakeMaggiore.
GettyImages
INTRODUCTION:AGLORIOUSLOCATION
Havingemergedfromthecrashoftectonicplatesandthegrindingofglaciers,then
enduredthethunderofwar,thewatersoftheItalianLakeshavenowmellowedinto
perfecttranquillity.
TheItalianLakesareaplacebetween–caughtbetweenthefrowningice-cappedcragsoftheAlpsand
DolomitesandthelazyflatlandsofthePoRiverValley,betweentheGothsandRomans,theVenetiansand
theAustro-Hungarians,theAlliesandtheGermans,betweenthefinancialfirmsofZurichandthe
industrialgiantsofMilan.
IsoladiSanGiulio,thepearlofLakeOrta.
GettyImages
Laglio,LakeComo.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
InspirationstrikesasyetanotherartistfallsinlovewithLakeGarda.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
SpreadacrossthenorthofItalyandintosouthernSwitzerland,mostpeopleknowthefourlargest
lakes–GardatotheeastnearVerona,Lugano,Comoand,inthewest,closesttoMilan,Maggiore.
Exploretheirwatersbyferry,zigzaggingbetweenthewindsurfersanddinghiestotinyfishingharbours
andmarinasfringedbygeranium-cladgelaterie.Butthereareotherlakesaswell–literallyhundredsof
them,somesuchasOrta,Varese,IseoandIdrostilllarge,othersassmallasglacialponds.Betweenthem
twistthetortuoussinewsofthePrealps,theirsteepmountainroadsalwaysbeautifulanddangerousand
giddy,althoughmotorwaysblastedthroughtunnelshelpspeedyouonyourway.
Nearbyliegreathistoriccities–über-chicMilantothesouthwest,BergamoandBresciainthesouth,
Veronatothesoutheast,TrentotothenortheastandLuganotothenorth.Throughoutmostoftheirhistory,
thepeopleofthelakeshavekepttheirheadsdownasthecitiesaroundthemroaredandpostured,
squabblingamongstthemselves,andhopingthatthebiggerbattleswouldpassbyleavingthemtogeton
withearningalivingandenjoyingthegoodthingsinlife.Thesetheyhaveinabundance,fromthe
vineyardsofGardatothesnowfieldsofTrentino,sceneryandfoodthathavedrawnpoetsandpainters,
dropoutsanddictatorstoshareinthegoodlife,andmovedhardenedcynicstoflightsofeulogy.Afterall
thepaeansofpraisesungtothebeautyofthelakes,therearenoadjectivesleft–noneareneeded.
THEMODERNLAKES
TheFrenchwriterStendhalfamouslypitied“thosewhoarenotmadlyinlovewiththem”,
andevenSigmundFreudwasquitepottyaboutthem.ThesparklingItalianLakes
continuetoseduceandbewitch,butbeneaththeglamorouswrappingbeatstheeconomic
andpoliticalheartofItaly.
LifearoundthelakesissweetenoughwiththethreesurroundingcapitalsMilan,TurinandVeniceeach
exertingitsdistinctinfluence.FromthesophisticationofComo,withitsvibrantculturallifeandexcellent
restaurants,totheindependentenclaveandtaxhavenofCampioned’ItaliaonLakeLugano,eachlakehas
itsownidentity.PerenniallypopularwithreadersofBritishandGermannewspapers,LakeGardaisalso
theweekendhavenforthelandlockedresidentsofBresciaandVerona.Comoisthefavouredweekend
retreatoftheMilanese,whohappilyrubshoulderswiththeglitteratiandcelebrity-seekers.LittleOrtais
quieter,mysticalandlow-key.Yetallareeffortlesslybeautiful.“Lafigura”inItalianlifealwaystake
precedenceover“lasostanza”–thesubstanceofthings.
Torbole,LakeGarda.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Alongwiththepleasuresofdolcevitaconvivialityandgastronomy,allthelakesareawashwith
music,operaandfilmfestivals.Andinanareawhereit’spossibletowater-skiinthemorning,lunchata
sun-drenchedlakesidecaféandsnow-skiintheafternoon,lifedoesn’tgetmuchsweeterthaninthisrichly
endowedcornerofItaly.
CaféinVarese.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Everydaylife
Yetwhatislifelikefortheordinarypeoplewholiveandworkhere,whoseancestorshavegrownolives
andgrapesontheseshoresforcenturiesandwhonowspendtheirworkinglivespamperingthetourists?
Theunderlying,unitingcharacteristicsoftheregionareconformity,senseofritual,foodandwineand
campanilismo–theattachmenttoone’sownbelltower,describedbyStendhalasthe“patriotisme
d’antichambre”.Lifeinthelakedistrictrevolvesaroundaclearsenseofcommunity.Thesovereign
appealofthefamilyremainsparamount,andmanyofthemostprosperousbusinessesarefamily-run.
EveninLombardy,themostprosperousofItalianregions,thereisalocal-centredsocialandcultural
life–Sundaylunchfor20withthreegenerations,agessevento70.Itstillcontinues,althoughmanyofthe
biggertownshavebecomeverycosmopolitan.Bresciahasthehighestpercapitanumberofimmigrantsin
Italy.Theinfluxhasaddedanew,oftenvibrantdimension,withnewrestaurantsmushroomingand
horizonswidening,aswellascreatingadegreeofdiscordamongstlocalsfearfulfortheirjobsand
houses.
Bigglasses,bighairandblackleatheraresupercoolinComo.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Localindustryandeconomy
Italy’seconomicstrengthhasalwaysbeenintheprocessingandthemanufacturingofgoods,especiallyin
small-tomedium-sizedfamilyfirms–inevitably,itisthesebusinessesthathavesufferedthemostinthe
economiccrisisthathasseizedItalyoverthelastfewyears.
Themajorindustriesintheregionareprecisionmachinery,motorvehicles,chemicals,
pharmaceuticals,electricgoods,fashionandclothing.ThepowerhouseisLombardy,whichhasbecomea
worldleaderindesign,textilesandmachinetools.Milanisthemainmoney-earner,buteachlakehasits
ownsourceofincome.
Tourismisavitalpartoftheeconomyoftheregion,withLakeGardaaloneaccountingformorethan
fivemillionforeigntouristsayear.Religioustourismisalsoincreasinglypopular,centredonthenine
SacriMonti,whichweredevelopedforpilgrimsinthe15thand16thcenturiesasanalternativeto
travellingtotheHolyLand.
Furbizia
AsItalyfacesaseriouseconomiccrisis,therehavebeencallsforanincreasedfocusonsolidarity,socialresponsibilityandcommunity
spirit.However,inacountrythathaslongprizedthequalityof‘furbizia’(roughlytranslatableas‘cunning’),andinwhichfamilycomes
first,communitysecond,thesequalitiesmighttakesometimetodevelop.AsTobiasJonescommentsinTheDarkHeartofItaly,“Stay
inthecountrylongenoughandyousimplyhavetobecome‘cunning’inordertosurvive.Withashrugofhonestadmission,everyonein
Italywilladmittohavingbrokenthelawatsomepoint(it’shardnottoifbeing‘anaccessorytotaxevasion’involvesleavingashop
withoutthetillreceipt)”.
MilanmaybethedesignshowcasebutComoisthecityofsilk(formoreinformation,clickhere).
Silkhasbeenprocessedheresincethe16thcentury,andtodaytheannualproductiontotals3,200tons
withexportsofaround$1,000millionayear.Italyproduces80percentofEurope’ssilk,ofwhichComo
nowproduces90percent.ThecostlybusinessofraisingsilkwormswasdiscontinuedinItalyafterWorld
WarII,andtodaythefibresareimportedfromChinareadytobewoven,dyedandfinished.Designers
fromvirtuallyeveryfinehouse–Armani,Chanel,Ferré,Ungaro,ValentinoandVersace,tonamejusta
few–relyonsilkfromComo.TheManterofamilyandAntonioRattiarethetwogiants.Manteroalone
hasayearlyoutputof8–10millionmetres(9–11millionyds)andboastsastarryclientlistthatincludes
theFrenchcouturehouseChanel,forwhomtheyaretheexclusivemakersoftheirsignaturescarves.
ButtheFaustianpactwiththeFarEasthascausedlengtheningshadows.Theoutlookforthetextile
andclothingindustryisnotbright.Untilthebeginningofthe21stcentury,ItalyhadbeenEurope’sleading
textileandclothingproducerforaquarterofacentury.Then,in2001,ChinajoinedtheWorldTrade
Organisationandforeigndirectinvestmentpouredintothecountry.In2004alone,EUimportsfromChina
increasedbyalmosthalf,pricesfellbyathirdandimportsofsomeproductsgrewsix-fold.Inthe1970s,
theclothinggiantBenetton,basednearVeniceinTreviso,usedtooutsourceclothes-makingtohome
workersthroughoutthedistrict.By1990,about90percentofitsgarmentswerestillmadeinItaly,butin
themid-2000stheproportiondroppedto30percentanddroppedrightdownto10percentin2010.
BenettonopenedaHongKongofficein2006tosupervisetheburgeoningsupplychaininmainlandChina.
Manymid-marketItalianclothingbrandsfollowedsuitandmovedproductiontolower-costcountries
suchasBulgaria,TurkeyandRomania.Therearecurrentlyaround1,500clothingandtextilefirmsowned
byItaliansinRomania.
In2014thereweresomegoodnewshowever.Aftermorethan50yearstheItaliantextileindustry
returnedtogrowingsilkworms−andin2015around100silkwormfactorieswereoperatinginthe
Venetoregion.Theindustry’sambitiousplanistocreate1,000morefactoriesinthenextfiveorsixyears.
ErmenegildoZegnastore,ViaMontenapoleone,Milan.
Photoshot
Othersurvivalstrategieshavebeenadoptedbyupmarketfashionhouses,likechicmensweardesigner
ErmenegildoZegna,whichhasafactorynearBiella(alsoknownas“textilevalley”).Tenyearsago,
ZegnagaveseriousthoughttotakingitsproductiontoChina,butdecidedthatitshome-grownItalianskills
andproductionsystemswereofgreatervaluethanmakingwagessavings.Zegnaisnowsellingratherthan
producinginChinaandhasopenedshopsin36cities.
Keentoreinventitself,inrecentyearstheItaliantextilesmarkethasfoundoriginlabellingauseful
salestool:the‘MadeinItaly’tag–aproudreminderofmanycenturiesofcraftsmanship–hasattracted
manyluxurybrandswillingtopaytheextraforthequalityandprestigeofItaly-madegoods.
Designicons
ThevalleysofthemountainousprovinceofBellunomaynotalwaysbesunny,butshadesareprobably
everyItalian’smostimportantfashionaccessory,anditisaroundherethatthevastmajorityoftheworld’s
sunglassesarecraftedbyacoterieoffamily-controlledfirmsincludingSafilo,DeRigoandMarchon.The
biggestofall,theLuxotticagroup,hadnetsalesof$9billionin2015.
MatchlessItaliandesignalsohasahomeontheshoresofLakeIseo,whereRivabeganmakingboats
atthebeginningofthe19thcentury.SoontheyacquiredandperfectedtheItalianlustforspeed,andin
1934setaworldspeedrecordonwaterwithoneoftheir1,500ccracers.Thecrowningachievement
camein1962withthewooden-hull,sleekAquarama,whichretailedfor£250,000.Plasticboatsstarted
todominatethemarket,andRivawassoldtoVickersin1996.ButthereclaimedAquaramasarestill
regardedastheRolls-Royceofsportsboats.ThelateGianniAgnelli,thejet-setheadofFiat,wasonce
askedtotryoneout.Hewastoldthatifhecouldturnitover,hecouldhaveit.Giannitried,but,foronce,
hefailed.
AroundLakeOrta,thesouthernsuburbsofGozzanoandSanMauriziod’Opaglio,knownas“tapcity”,
haveeverythingforbathroomdelightsandarethesiteofGiacomini,thearea’slargesttapcompany.
OmegnaisespeciallyknownforhouseholdgoodsanddesignerkitchenwareinAlessi’sDreamFactory.
TheoriginalAlessi-designiconcoffeepotwasproducedherealongwithfemalecorkscrews,funkyfly
swatsandallkindsofbeautifullycrafted–yetuseful–domesticjewels.AsAlbertoAlessihasfamously
said,“Idon’tthinkpeoplebuyanAlessikettletoboilwater,”butheconcedes,“Ipreferitiftheywork.”
Anafternooninthesunwiththepaper.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Politics
Inthe16thcentury,thewriterandphilosopherMachiavellirecognisedeventhenthatItalyisever
“waitingtoseewhocanbetheonetohealherwounds”.Inmoderntimes,therehasbeenFascismunder
Mussolini,communism,socialismandthelongest-survivinggovernmentinItaly’srepublicanhistory,led
bySilvioBerlusconi.Perhapsadubiousdistinctionashemorethanmostbetrayedfreemarketeconomics.
InLaBellaFigura,BeppeSevergniniopinesthat“Italyistheonlyworkshopintheworldthatcouldturn
outbothBotticellisandBerlusconis”.Hecontinues,“SilvioBerlusconipromisedthathewouldbethe
captainwhowouldturntheshiparoundbutinsteadheconcentratedonmakinghisowncabinmore
comfortableandranaground”.
On16November2011,followingalitanyofscandals–fromhisinvolvementintheinfamous“Bunga
Bunga”orgiestocorruptiononagrandscale–SilvioBerlusconiresignedasPrimeMinisterofItaly.In
thewakeofhisresignation,amidthedisbeliefand,formany,euphoriathatthe17-yeartenureof“Il
Cavaliere”hadfinallycometoanend,therewasfuryattherapidlyemergingpictureofaseriouslyailing
nationaleconomy.Untilthelast,Berlusconihadpresentedaglossed-overviewofhiscountry’seconomic
woes,protesting“therestaurantsinRomearealwaysfull”;infact,Italy’seconomyhadbeenatavirtual
standstillsincetheturnofthecentury–correspondingalmostexactlywithBerlusconi’sascendancy–and
inthelastyearsofhistenurehisfailuretoimplementfiscalreformsintimetostemthecrisiswasthefinal
nailinthecoffin.
WineLakes
Italyexportsmorewinethananyothercountry;itsexportvaluewasestimatedat$5.4billionin2015.Thefertilelandandwarmclimate
ofthelakesproducesagreatdiversityofwines,fromtherichredsofBarolotosparkling,whiteProsecco.Nebbioloisthefinestred
grapeinnorthernItaly,fromwhichbothBaroloandBarbarescoaremade,andflourishesaroundthewesternshoreofLakeMaggiore.
FruityValpolicellaandfineredBardolinocomefromLakeGarda,drySoaveisproducedeastofVerona,andthewinesofFranciacorta,
producedaroundLakeIseo,havebeenpraisedsinceRomantimes.
Saturdaymarket,Salò.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Berlusconi’ssuccessor,MarioMonti,aformerEuropeanCommissioner,wasappointedtopreside
overacabinetoftechnocratsuntiltheeconomicconditionsstabilisedandnewelectionswereheld.
Lookingtothefuture
ThefinancialcrisissucceededwhereItaly’sliberalpartieshadfailedtoremoveBerlusconifrompower,
butthecountryisnostrangertoeconomiccrisis.Inthelate1990s,Italy’smanufacturingwasovertakenby
Asiancompetitors;lazypoliticalleadershipdidlittletoboostgrowth,buttheintroductionoftheeuro
helpedbolstertheeconomy.Theadventoftheglobalfinancialcrisisin2007,however,knockedItaly’s
economybymorethan6percent.InvestorsfearedthatItalycouldnotmanageitsmountainofdebtanda
furtherdecadeofstagnationloomed.
MarioMonti’sfirstmovewastodevisearadicalpackageofspendingcutsandtaxincreases.
Particularfocuswasgiventotaxevasion,awidespreadproblem.Hisproposalsweremetwithprotests
frombothleftandright.Thecorereforms,however,basedontaxincreases,werepushedthrough,
markinganewageofausterityforanalreadycash-strappedcountry.
OneofthemostsignificantsignsofItaly’ssteadydeclinehasbeentheemigrationofitsyoungpeople:
inthepastdecadearound600,000haveleftItaly’sshoresinsearchofbrighterprospectselsewhere.The
country’stwo-tierlabourmarketislargelytoblamefortheexodus:whileolderworkersenjoythe
benefitsoffixedcontractsandgenerouspensions,youngerItalians–oftenhighlyeducated–struggleto
findevenpoorly-paidtemporarywork.
Followingthe2013generalelections,EnricoLettasucceededMontiasprimeminister–albeitfora
shortwhile.In2014,hewasreplacedbytheDemocraticParty’sMatteoRenzi.Withanambitious
packageofreforms,theyoungandenergeticformermayorofFlorencemanagedtokeepthebudgetdeficit
atasafelevelandin2015ahopefuleconomicgrowthof0.3percentwasreported.Expo2015,hostedby
Milanforthesecondtimeintheevent’shistory,alsogaveaboosttotheeconomyofthecityandtheentire
region.
Forallhisachievements,however,Italy’syoungesteverprimeministerisfacedwithever-persistent
socialwoesandafinancialcrisisaggravatedbywavesofimmigrantsfloodingthecountry.InOctober
2016,areferendumisplannedtoapprovetheconstitutionalreformsputforwardbyRenzi.
DECISIVEDATES
c.12000BC
NeanderthalslivinginTrentinomountains.
c.6000–5000BC
ThefirstpictographsarecarvedinValCamonicabyCamunihunter-gatherers.Neolithicfarmerssettlein
PoValley.
c.3300BC
TheCopperAgeiswellunderwaybythetimeOetzitheIcemansetsoutnorthfromTrentinoandis
murderedenroute.
c.1200–400BC
ThesouthoftheregioniscolonisedbytheEtrus​cans,whiletheLiguriansinhabitthewesternAlps,the
OribithecentreandtheVenetitheeasternAlps.
c.400BC
TheCeltscrosstheAlps,seizingEtruscanterritoryandsackingRomein390BC.Theyfoundthecitiesof
Milan,BergamoandComo.
222–191BC
TheRomansdriveouttheCelts,andnorthernItalybecomestheRomanprovinceofGalliaCisalpina.
Pictographs,CapodiPonte,ValCamonica.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
218–202BC
SecondPunicWarbetweenCarthageandRome.HannibalandhiselephantscrosstheAlpsintheirmarch
onRome.
15BC
AugustusreorganisestheTranspadaniaregionandmakesMediolanum(Milan)itscapital.
AD292
DiocletiandividestheRomanEmpireintwo,takingtheeastforhimself,whilehisco-emperor,
Maximilian,rulesfromMilan.
313
EmperorsConstantinetheGreatandLiciniuswriteajointEdictofMilangrantingfreedomofworshipto
ChristiansandmakingChristianitythestatereligionoftheRomanEmpire.
330
ConstantinemovesthecapitaloftheempiretoByzantium.WithRomeaspentforce,Milanbecomesthe
effectivecapitaloftheWesternEmpire.
402–3
WithouttheprotectionofRome,northerntribespoursouth.TheVisigothsbesiegeMilanandVerona.
452
Milan,VeronaandthePoValleyareransackedbyAttilatheHun.
StatueofEmperorMaximilian.
GettyImages
476
EndoftheWesternRomanEmpirecomesofficiallyasGermanicwarleader,Odoacer,iselectedkingin
northernItaly.
539
MilanisvirtuallydestroyedduringtheGothicWarsbetweentheOstrogothsandByzantium.
568–72
TheGermanicLombardsinvadenorthernItalyandtakecontrolofthelake​districtandnorthernPoValley,
withtheircapitalatPavia.
RomanCapitolineTemple,Brescia.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
756
FrankishKingPepintheShortgrantsseveralLombardprovincestothePope,settingupcenturiesoffuture
squabblesbetweenChurchandstate.
774
ThePopeaskstheFrankishking,Charlemagne,tostoptheLombardadvance.HeconquerstheLombard
kingdom,andcreatesaFrankishstateinnorthItaly.
800
CharlemagneisproclaimedHolyRomanEmperorbythePope.
9th–10thcenturies
Bishopsofsomecitiesobtaineffectiveindependence;otherareasofnorthernItalyarefoughtoverby
FrenchandGermanFranks.
Charlemagne.
iStock
962
GermanOttoIretakesItaly.Hissuccessors​officiallyholdtheareafornearly200years,butoncemoreit
disintegratesintoaseriesofcomuni(citystates),markedbyMilan’sfirstpopularassembly(parlamento)
in1024.
1118–27
TheTenYearsWarbetweenMilanandComoisoneofmanyviolentlocalsquabblesasthecitiesviefor
positionandwealth.
1155
TheGermanPrinceFrederickBarbarossaiscrownedHolyRomanEmperorandtriestoenforcehis
authorityovertheItalians.
1167–1250
TheLombardLeagueofcitystatesisfoundedwiththesupportofthePopetoopposeBarbarossa.Inan
uneasytruce,thecitieshaveeffectiveautonomybutpaylip-​servicetothecrown.
12th–14thcenturies
Citiesthriveontrade,butpowershiftsfromseveralhundredsmallcommunestoafewlargecitiesand
familiessuchastheScaligeriinVeronaandtheViscontiandSforzainMilan,whobecomearistocratic
rulers(signori).
LionofStMark.
Bigstockphoto
1405–1521
Brescia,VeronaandLakeGardaareconqueredorhandthemselvesoverpeacefullytotheVenetian
Republic,symbolisedbythelionofStMark.
1496–1500
Modern-dayTicinoisannexedbySwitzerland.
1525–56
AfterthelastSforzadukedies,MilanisclaimedbyFrance,butfollowingascrap,istakenbythe
Habsburgsthen,in1556,bySpain.
LaScala,Milan.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
1545–63
TheRomanCatholicChurchconvenesseveraltimesfortheCouncilofTrent(Trento),anultimately
unsuccessfulattempttofighttheReformation.
1701–14
TheWaroftheSpanishSuccessionrevivesFrenchclaimstoLombardybeforetheTreatyofUtrechtgives
theregiontotheAustrianHabsburgs.
1778
OperahouseinMilan(LaScala)opens.
BattleofSolferino,1859.
Publicdomain
1796–1805
NapoleonconquersLombardyandtheVenetoin1796andiscrowned“kingofItaly”inMilan’sDuomo.
ThepuppetCisalpineRepublicisformedbytheTreatyofCampoformioin1797,becomingtheItalian
Republicin1802andtheKingdomofItalyin1805.
1814–15
AfterNapoleon’sdefeat,theCongressofViennaawardsLombardyandtheVenetotoAustria.
CouncilofTrent.
Publicdomain
1842
AmidstgrowingcallsforItalianindependenceinPiedmont,Garibaldinameshismovementafteralocal
newspaper,IlRisorgimento(TheAwakening).
1848–66
TheRisorgimentofightsagainstAustrianrule.
1859
BackedbyFrance,theRisorgimentowinsadecisivevictoryattheBattleofSolferino.Milanjoinsthe
kingdom.
1861
GaribaldiformallydeclaresthenewKingdomofItaly,ruledbyKingVittorioEmanueleII.Austriahands
overLombardyandtheVeneto.
1915
ItalyjoinstheWorldWarIAllies.
1919
TheTreatyofSaint-GermaingivesTrentinotoItaly.MussolinicreatestheblackshirtFascistbrigadesin
Milan.
1922
FascistsunderBenitoMussoliniseizepowerinItaly.
1936-40
MussolinisupportsFrancointheSpanishCivilWar,conquersEthiopia,invadesAlbaniaandenters
WorldWarIIasaNaziallyin1940.
1943–5
Italy’snorthernfrontcollapses.MussoliniretirestoLakeGardaandfoundstheRepublicofSalò.Italy
joinstheAllies,andaheroicresistancestruggleagainsttheGermansisfoughtinthemountains.
1945
On27April1945MussoliniiscapturedandexecutedinComothefollowingday.
1946
Italybecomesarepublic;theSavoyroyalfamilyisexiled.
1949
ItalyjoinsNato.
1958
ItalyjoinstheCommonMarket,theforerunneroftheEuropeanUnion,asafoundermember.
1960s–70s
Politicalunrestandviolencebyfar-rightandleftgroups,includingtheRedBrigade.BombsinMilan
(1969)andBrescia(1974),andthekidnappingandmurderofformerpremierAldoMoroin1978.
1987
TheindustrialnorthpowersItalytoaplaceintheG7.
BenitoMussoliniandAdolfHitler,1943.
Photoshot
1992
Tangentopoli(“Bribesville”)scandalleadstoasupposedoverhaulofpubliclife,althoughcorruption
scandalscontinuetorocktheeconomicandpoliticalheartofItaly.
1994
MediatycoonSilvioBerlusconicreatesaright-wingparty,ForzaItalia,andgoesontoleadthelongestservinggovernmentintherepublic’shistory.
1997
PoliticalplaywrightDarioFo,fromMilan,winstheNobelPrizeforLiterature.
2002
Italyadoptstheeuro.
2003
TheSavoyroyalfamilyareallowedtoreturntoItalyforthefirsttime.
2006
Acentre-leftcoalition,ledbyRomanoProdi,takespowerinparliament.
2008
Berlusconiisre-electedasprimeministerinApril,withalargemajority.
2011
ScandalsrockBerlusconi’sgovernment,highlightingthepremier’sshadydealingsandillicitliaisons.
Afterlosinghismajorityinparliament,Berlusconiofficiallyresignsasprimeministeron16November
andisreplacedbyMarioMonti.
PrimeMinisterMatteoRenzi.
Shutterstock
2012
EarthquakeshittheregionofEmilia-RomagnainMaywithaftershocksfeltasfarasMilan.
2014
MatteoRenzifromtheDemocraticPartyformsanewgovernment.
2015
MilanhostsExpo2015.
2016
ReferendumtoapproveconstitutionalreformsproposedbyPrimeMinisterRenzi.
THEMAKINGOFTHELAKES
SituatedatthegatewaytotheItalianpeninsula,theItalianLakeshavelongbeena
geographicalprize,colonised–andcontested–byabewilderingrangeofpeoples.Thisis
alandscapethatbearsthefingerprintsofeveryonefromtheGaulstoGaribaldi.
ItwasglacialactionthatcarvedouttheruggedbedsoftheItalianLakes.Anditwasnotlongafterthelast
icesheetsretreated,around14,000yearsago,thatearlymanbegantocolonisetheregion.Mesolithic
hunter-gathererswerefollowedbyNeolithicfarmers,whocarveddelicateimagesintotherocksofthe
ValCamonica,nearLakeIseo(formoreinformation,clickhere).
CatulluswroteforlornlovepoemstoLesbiainthisvillainSirmione.
Bigstockphoto
Around2,500yearslater,therewaswhatamountedtoasocialrevolution:stonetoolswerereplaced
byonesmadefrommetal–firstcopper,thenbronze.Theseprehistoricpeoplewereoutward-looking,
makinguseofAlpinepassestotravelandtradewithotherpartsofcontinentalEuropeand,asthe
discoveryofOetzitheIceman(seebox)showed,hadsomeknowledgeofnaturalmedicines.
OnceavastbayoftheAdriatic,thenorthernplainsgraduallyfilledwithnitrate-richsilt
fromthePo,theAdigeandotherriversandbecamethemostfertileregioninItaly
drawingprehistoricclanstothearea.
BronzeAgeadvancesinagricultureledtothegrowthofmorepermanentvillages.Lavagnone,near
DesenzanodelGarda,wascontinuouslysettledforaround1,000years.Anoakploughfoundthere(c
.2000BC)boastedashrewdlydesignedreplaceableploughshare–andwasprobablypulledbyoxen.
OtherBronzeAgefindsintheareaaroundthelakesincludeaspokedwheel,adugoutcanoeandthat
sartorialsurvivor,thesprungsafety-pin(a“fibula”initsearliestincarnation).
Petroglyphs,CapodiPonte,ValCamonica.
FototecaENIT
IronAgepeople
WiththeIronAge(c.1000BC),thepeopleofthelakes,suchastheCamuniofValCamonica,cameinto
contactwithnewcolonisers,notablytheEtruscansandtheVeneti,aswellastheLiguritribe,whichhad
foundedBrescia.Bythe4thcenturyBC,morebelligerentGauls(Celtictribes)hadsweptacrosstheAlps,
drivingouttheEtruscansandputtingtheirstamponthelandscape.TheyexpandedBrescia,andfounded
Milan,Bergamo,ComoandprobablyTrento,inmodern-dayTrentino.TheGaulsthenheadedsouthand
sackedRome.Thestagewassetforconflict.
OetzitheIceman.
Photoshot
Romanprovince
TheexpansionoftheRomanRepublichadalreadyledtowarwithCarthage,inmodernTunisia.Inthe
FirstPunicWar(264–241BC),RometookSicilyandSardiniafromCarthage,thenturneditsattentions
northanddrovetheGaulsfromwhatisnowMilan(222BC).TheRomansnamedtheirnewlyconquered
cityMediolanum.TheSecondPunicWar(218–202BC)sawtheCarthaginiancommanderHanniballead
hisarmy–andelephants–overtheAlps,establishingcontrolovermuchofthelakeswiththehelpofthe
Gauls.Rome,however,wasnottoberesistedandeventuallydestroyedCarthage,seizeditsvastempire
anddrovetheGaulsfromthelakesandfertilePoValley.TheRomansnowcontrolledavastnorthern
Italianprovince–GalliaCisalpina,literally“GaulonthissideoftheAlps”.TheybeganbuildingtheVia
Aemilia,whichlinkedRiminiontheAdriatictoPiacenza,andlaterextendedthehighwayallthewayto
Milan.Newsettlementswerefounded,marshygrounddrained,andRomancultureandlanguagebecame
dominant.
FrozeninTime
In1991,highinthemountainsofnorthernItaly,twohikersdiscoveredthebodyofamanwhohaddiedthousandsofyearsearlierinthe
Chalcolithic(Copper)Age.Preservedalmostintactbytheice,Oetziashewasnamedofferedauniqueglimpseintoanancientworld.
Analysisofhisbodyandbelongingsallowedscientiststobuildupadetailedpictureofhislifeanddeath.
Oetziwaswellpreparedforhismountainjourney,dressedinafurhat,thickcoat,thigh-highleggingsandleatherlace-upshoes.Healso
hadonawovengrasscloakandabackpack.Proppedonarockbesidehisbodywasafinelyworkedyewaxewithacopperblade.He
hadaquiver,arrowsandabow.Ofmostinterestwashismedicalkit–ballsofabirchfunguswithantibioticproperties,possiblytoease
stomach-ache(parasiticwormeggswerefoundinhisgut).PollenanalysisshowsitwasspringwhenOetzisetoutonhisfinaljourney.
Heneverreachedhisdestinationassomeoneshothimintheback;astonearrowheadwasstillinhisbody.Morecluesinthisprehistoric
murdermysteryemergedwithrecentstudiesofOetzi’sfullgenomewhichrevealedthathehadbrowneyes,wasbloodtype“O”and
predisposedtoheartdisease.
OetzinowresidesintheSouthTyrolMuseumofArchaeologyinBolzano(Tue–Sun10am–6pm;www.iceman.it).
TheboundaryseparatingGalliaCisalpinafromItalicRomewastheRubicon.JuliusCaesarreturned
victoriousfromconqueringGaul,crossingthisnowlegendaryriverwithhisarmytoseizecontrolofthe
Republic.Hewastednotimeindevelopingthelakes,andhadsoonmovedtheoriginalcentreofComoto
itscurrentlocation,layingoutanewtown(NovumComum)thathadthestatusofamunicipality.Mark
Antonylater“promoted”GalliaCisalpinafromamereprovincetoanofficialpartofItalicRome.This
laidthefoundationsfortheItalyoftoday.
Imperialera
The1stcenturyBCsawtheRomanRepublicsegueintotheRomanEmpire,withCaesar’schosenheir
OctaviantakingthetitleEmperorAugustus.HedevelopedBresciaasanimportanttradingcentreand,
recognisingthestrategicimportanceofthelocationofMediolanum(‘MiddleofthePlain’,whichbecame
Milan),madeitthecapitalofTranspadania(15BC),aregionthatincludedComoandBergamo.The
northbegantomakebothaneconomicandaculturalcontributiontotheempire(thePlinys,Elderand
Younger,camefromComo,andthelegacyofthepoetCatullus,whowasborninVerona,isalso
significant).ImposingstructuressuchastheForuminBresciaandAmphitheatreinVeronawereerected,
andwealthyRomansestablishedtheareaasarichman’splayground,buildingthemselvesluxurious
lakesidevillas–suchasthatatDesenzanoonLakeGarda.
TheRomancolumnsinMilan.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Theempireremainedstableuntilthe3rdcenturyAD,wheninvadersbegantobreachitsboundaries.
Thenorthernlakeswereattheheartofmuchofthefighting–LakeGardawasthescenefortheBattleof
LakeBenacus(AD268),inwhichRomesuccessfullybeatoffavastGermanicarmy.Collapsewas
avertedwhenEmperorDiocletiansplithisunwieldyempireintwo.HewenttoTurkeytotakecontrolof
theeast(Byzantium),andco-emperorMaximilianwasgivencontrolofthewest–whichheruledfrom
Milan.
DiocletianhadpersecutedChristianswithbrutalenthusiasm,butConstantine–wholaterconverted–
wasmoretolerant.Afterhemethisco-emperor(andnewbrother-in-law)LiciniusinMilan(AD313),the
EdictofMilanwasissued.ThisallowedfreedomofreligiousworshipandeffectivelymadeChristianity
thestatereligionoftheempire.MilansoonbecameajewelintheChristiancrown.
WhenLiciniusdied,Constantinebecamesoleemperor,reunitingbothhalvesoftheRomanEmpire.
HemovedthecapitalfromRometothecityofByzantium,buildinghimselfanimposingimperialcity
namedConstantinople.StrategicallysituatedbetweentheAlpsandthePoValley,Milanassumedtherole
ofsecondimperialcentre.
OstrogothicKingTheodoric.
GettyImages
BarbariansandByzantines
Attheendofthe4thcentury,theempirewasdividedonceagain.WesternEmperorHonoriusinitially
madeMilanhiscapital,butafteritwasattackedbybarbarians,hemovedtheimperialcapitalsoutheastto
Ravenna(inEmilia-Romagna),asitsmalarialswampsmadeiteasiertodefend.Itwasadisastrous
decision,leavingmuchofItalypreytoraids.Romewassackedandthelakesettlementswerecontinually
harried.AstheWesternEmpirecrumbled,Como,MilanandVeronawerebesieged,andeventuallyAttila
theHunstormedtheregion,razingMilanin452.
Thelateryearsofthe5thcenturysawfurtherinstability,withanuprisingofmixedTeutonicinvaders
ledbyOdoacer,thesonofachieftaininAttilatheHun’scourt.OdoacertookRavennaandwaseventually
proclaimedrexItaliae–kingofItaly,bytheEasternEmperorZeno.HewascrownedinPavia.
ZenocametoseeOdoacerasathreatandcunninglyengineeredhisdownfallbyencouragingthe
OstrogothleaderTheodorictoseizepower.Theodoric’sforcestookVeronain489andbesiegedRavenna
foranastonishingthreeyears.Eventually,heandOdoaceragreedthattheywouldbothruleItaly.
However,inamoveworthyofafictionalvillain,Theodoricheldacelebratorybanquet,toastedhisnew
compatriot,thenmurderedhim.
TheodoricbecamethenewkingofItaly,spendingagreatdealoftimeinVerona,butthethreatfrom
theeastremained.JustinianbecamerulerofByzantium(527–65)andembarkedonamissiontoretakethe
formerWesternEmpire.ThenorthernlakesbecameabattlegroundbetweenByzantiumandtheOstrogoths
duringtheGothicWars(535–54).Milanwasbesieged(again)andwaseventuallystarvedintosurrender
in539.Manyweremassacred,andthecitywasvirtuallydestroyed.Byzantineinfluencespreadacross
Italy,andpoliticalinstabilityallowedtheChurchtoassumemoreauthority.
TheLombardera
Thelateryearsofthe6thcenturyusheredinawelcomeperiodofrelativepeacefornorthernItaly.In568,
theLombards(orLongobards),anindustriousGermanicpeople,begantheirinvasion(568–72)andsoon
hadcontrolofthelakesandmuchofthePoValley.TheLombarderalasteduntilthe8thcenturyand,as
thenamesuggests,theywieldedtheirgreatestinfluenceinwhatisnowLombardy.Theyestablished
variousduchies,themostimportantofwhichwasatPavia,whichtheyintendedtorivalRavenna(still
underByzantinerule).OtherimportantcentreswereBrescia,MilanandVerona,andtheyalsocontrolled
Trento,ComoandBergamo.
TheLombardsswiftlyconqueredmostofwhatisnowLombardy,theVenetoandTuscany,
replacingthecentralisedRomanpoliticalsystemwithlocallygoverned“duchies”.
LombardruleistraditionallyseenasaDarkAgeforItaly.However,theyleftalinguisticbutalsoan
architecturallegacy.Theybegantobuildchurchesandmonasteries,frequentlyincorporatingearlier
RomanstructuresandusheringintheRomanesquestyle.Sant’AmbrogioinMilan,SanZenoMaggiorein
VeronaandtheMonasteryofSantaGiuliainBresciaallbeartheLombardhallmark.
PepinandthePope
Aroundthemiddleofthe8thcentury,theGermanicFranksinvadedItaly.Ledbytheirking,thememorably
monikeredPepintheShort,andwiththeblessingofthePope,whohadbeenincreasinglyworriedbythe
strengthoftheLombardkingdom,theygrabbedLombardterritoryandusheredintheCarolingianera.
Pepinthenunwittinglylaidthefoundationsforgenerationsoffutureconflictbystrengtheningthepowerof
thePope.IntheDonationofPepin(756),hegrantedlandthathadbelongedtoRavenna,plusseveral
Lombardduchies,tothePope–effectivelycreatingPapalStates.
PopeZacharyaskingPepintheShortforhelpagainsttheLombards.
Alamy
PerhapsasawayofensuringapowerfulFrankish–Lombardalliance,Pepin’ssonandsuccessor
CharlemagnemarriedoneofthedaughtersofDesiderius,theLombardking.Itwasabriefliaison:
Charlemagnesoonhadthemarriageannulledandmarriedsomeoneelse.Suchungentlemanlybehaviour
provokedLombardanger,andDesideriusseizedanumberofnewlygiftedpapallands.ThePope
requestedthatCharlemagnegetthemback.CharlemagnedulyinvadedItaly(774)andconqueredthe
Lombards(hewaspointedlycrownedwiththeLombardcrowninPavia),creatingaFrankishstate.He
wentontoestablishamightyterritory,acrossItalyandotherpartsofEurope,andwascrownedemperor
bythePopein800–thefirstoftheHolyRomanEmperors.
Pavia’slocationontheViaFrancigenabroughtinavaluableincomefrompilgrimson
theirwaytoRome,whoneededplacestostay,eat,buysouvenirsandchangemoney.
CarolingianrulecontinuedafterCharlemagne’sdeath,withcontrolofnorthernItalyswitching
betweenFrenchandGermanFranks(whilethesouthbegantosuccumbtotheArabsandthenthe
Normans,creatingadistinctculturaldifferencebetweennorthandsouth).Thelinediedoutinthelate9th
century,andtheensuingpowerstruggleallowedseveralcitiesinthenorthtoassumeautonomy.Eventhe
impositionoforderbyGermanOttoI,whowascrownedHolyRomanEmperorin962,failedtoquell
theirrise.
MedievalMasterBuilders
ThemasterbuildersofLakeComoandLuganoweretheequalofanyinmedievalEurope.These
skilledandpatientcraftsmenpassedontheirartfromfathertoson.
TheMaestriComaciniwereaschoolofgiftedstonecutters,sculptors,masonsandmastercraftsmenwhowereresponsibleforthe
decorationofpulpits,portalsandfacadesfromthelate11thto13thcenturies.TheyhavelefttheirmarkinComo’schurchesof
Sant’AbbondioandSanFedele,aswellasintheslenderbell-towersthatgracethelakeshore.
TheMaestri’ssculpturaltechniqueswereinfluencedbythegeometricdesignsofLombardironwork,whichfeaturedintricateinterlacing
patternsandmythicalbeasts.GiventhattheLombardswereinveteratetravellers,somescholarshavelookedfurtherafieldfortheir
sourcesofinspiration,citingthedistantinfluencesofByzantinesilks,IslamicsculptureandCopticreliefs.Sant’Abbondiolendsweightto
thesetheories,asthebandsofstonebas-reliefsreflectthepatternsanddesignofMiddleEasterndamask.Whateverthetruthbehind
suchcross-fertilisation,theschool’sinfluencespreadtosouthernItaly,SpainandLanguedoc.
TheMaestriCampionesiweretheLuganoversionoftheComomasterbuilders.BasedinCampioned’Italia,anItalianenclavein
Switzerland,theschoolwasactivethroughoutLombardy,VenetoandbeyondItaly’sborders.IntheMiddleAges,thenotionofthe
individualartistdidnotexist:sculptorssimplyworkedintheserviceofGodandthecommunityandlefttheirworksunsigned.Although
theoreticallyanonymous,manysculptorsscatteredtheircreationswithclues,featuringthemselvesandtheircolleaguesintheircraft,and
sometimesleavingmasons’marksinscribedinthestonework.TheearliestdocumentidentifyingmastersfromCampionebynameisa
1244contractbetweenUbaldino,directoroftheCathedralWorksofModena(1230–63),andEnricodiOttaviodaCampionewhoagreed,
onbehalfofhimselfandhisfamily,toworkforthecathedral“forever.”
Inthesecondhalfofthe13thcentury,thestyleoftheCampionesimasterbuilderslostitsdistinctiveness,whiletheirinterestinearly
FrenchGothicsculpturebecameevident.Bythe14thcentury,inLombardy,Romanesquestructuralelementsweregraduallycombined
withGothicdetails.ThemosteminentoftheMaestriCampionesiinthefirsthalfofthe14thcenturywasGiovannidaCampione,who
mainlyworkedinBergamoandBellano.
Mastersofthemysteries
TheMaestribelongedtoconfraternities,brotherhoodswhichsomedubMasonicandlinktothelong-lostskillsofRomanarchitecture.A
fancifultheoryholdsthattheMaestriComaciniweresecretheirstothelegendaryRomanbuilders.Allegedly,thebuildingtechniquesof
antiquitywerenevertrulylostbutmerelyheldinsafekeeping,passeddownwithinbrotherhoods.TheMaestricultivatedtheairofmystery
abouttheircraft.Fansofmedievalarchitectureshouldbeabletojoinfansofthebest-sellingnovelTheDaVinciCodeindeciphering
arcanestoneworkandstatuaryinLombardy’slakedistrict.
TheGothic-RenaissancespireofComo’scathedral.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
EnterRedbeard
Otto,hissonandgrandson(ratherpredictablyOttoIIandOttoIII)ruleduntiltheyear1002,establishinga
stronglinkbetweenGermanyandItaly.WhenOttoIIIdied,hiscousin,theextremelydevoutHenryII,
assumedcontrol.HenryempoweredtheChurch,andecclesiasticalbuildingsspranguparoundthelakes.
CitiessuchasMilanandComowerenowalmostseparatecitystates(comuni),ruledbycouncilsof
clergyandpowerfulmerchants.TherelationshipbetweenChurchandstate,popesandemperors,became
increasinglyuncomfortable,especiallywhen,in1076,EmperorHenryIVdecidedtoflexhispolitical
musclesbyinvestingasarchbishopofMilanamanheknewwasunacceptabletoPopeGregoryVII.
HenrydeposedGregory,whopromptlyretaliatedbyexcommunicatingtheemperor.Thestruggle
continueduntilHenryVtookthecrownanddiplomaticallyconcededtomostpapalclaims.
Asthecomunigrewinwealthandpower,sodidrivalriesbetweenthem.Earlyinthe12thcentury,the
so-calledTenYearsWar(1118–27)brokeoutbetweenComoandMilan–Comowaseventuallydefeated
andbadlydamaged.ThenArnoldofBrescialedareformmovementagainsttheChurch,eventually
movingtoRomeandestablishinga“republic”indefianceofthePope.In1154,SwabianrulerFrederickI
(named“Barbarossa”becauseofhisredbeard)stormedintoItaly,ostensiblytodefendthepapacy,butin
realitytostamphisauthorityonthisincreasinglyunrulyregion.HewascrownedkingofItalyatPaviain
1154,andlaterHolyRomanEmperor.HerampagedacrossnorthernItalyanddestroyedMilanin1162–
anactthatunexpectedlyunitedthecompetitivecomuniagainstthisaggressiveintruder.
FrederickBarbarossainvadesItaly,1154,froma15th-centurymanuscript.
Alamy
TheLombardLeague
Barbarossa’sbelligerenceledtotheformationofanallianceofcitiesinthelakes.In1167,atthevillage
ofPontida,nearBergamo,Cremona,Mantua,BergamoandBresciaunitedinanattempttolimitthe
emperor’sinfluence.Theywerelaterjoinedbyothercities,includingMilanandVerona.Paviaand
Como,however,sidedwithBarbarossawhileTrento,governedbyprince-bishopssince1027,keptaloof.
Theleaguebuiltafortifiedsettlement,namedAlessandria(afterPopeAlexanderIII).Relationsbetween
thePopeandtheleaguegotcloser,especiallyafterBarbarossaattackedAlessandria.Itshouldhavebeen
aneasyvictory–Alessandriawasknownas“StrawCity”asitsroofsweremadeofstraw–butthe
assaultwasunsuccessful.Therewasthenanotherblowtoimperialpridewhentheleaguedefeated
BarbarossaatLegnano,nearMilan,in1176.
ThewalledtownofBrescia,fromthe16th-centuryBookofPrivileges.
Alamy
Anuneasytrucebegan,andeventuallyBarbarossagrantedmostdemands.Afterhedied,theLombard
Leaguehadtoberevivedmorethanonceashissuccessors(membersoftheHohenstaufendynasty)made
moreattemptstoextendimperialauthority.Barbarossa’sgrandsonFrederickIIdeclaredwarbutwas
beatenbackfromBresciain1238andhe–andHohenstaufenrule–diedin1250.Butadistinctdivision
hadbeenestablishedbetweensupportersoftheemperor–whofelthehadtherighttosanctionpopes
(Ghibellines)andsupportersofthePope–whofelthehadtherighttocrownemperors(Guelphs).
SouthernItalyhadnowbeenopeneduptoFrenchrule.Inthenorth,thecomunibecameself-governing
statesruledbysecularcouncils(communes)madeupofwealthymerchantsandlawyers.Thisautonomy
allowedcitiessuchasMilan,PaviaandVeronatotakefulladvantageoftheirlocationonlucrative
Europeantraderoutesandincreasinglybusypilgrimagepaths.Banking,tradeandcommerceflourished,
andtheastutenortherncommunesalsoencouragedagriculturalinnovation,fullyexploitingthepotentialof
theflat,fertilePoValley.
ThearchitecturallegacyofLaSerenissimaisstillevidentinnorthernItaly:abas-relief
ofalionatSalò,aVenetiancustomshouseatLaziseandBrescia’sVenetian-stylePiazza
Loggia.
StellarSignoriandLaSerenissima
Freedfromtheneedtofightagainstimperialpowers,thecitiesnowhadthetimetofightamongst
themselves.Notonlywerethererivalriesbetweencities(oftenbasedonGuelphorGhibelline
allegiances),therewerealsointernalwranglingsforcontroloftherulingcouncils.Citiesbegantolookto
membersofpowerfulfamiliesforleadership,andcontrolbecamecentralised,wieldedbysignori(ruling
lords).
InMilan,itwasthearchbishop,OttoneVisconti,whograbbedpower.Hebecamesignorein1278,
andthecitybegantoflourishasneverbefore.Bytheearly14thcentury,theViscontidynasticpowerbase
(aidedbysomeenthusiasticviolenceanddouble-dealing)wasdecidedlyimpressive:Bergamo,Cremona,
ComoandBresciawereallruledbyMilan.AlthoughtheBlackDeathof1348inevitablyslowed
progress,thelakessurvivedthecrisis.WhenruthlessGianGaleazzoViscontibecamedukeofMilanin
1395,thecitybecamethepredominantpowerinnorthernItaly.YoucanstillseeremindersoftheVisconti
eratodayinmonumentssuchasMilan’sstunningDuomo(formoreinformation,clickhere).
Viscontiruleendedin1447withthedeathofFilippoMariaandpassedtohisson-in-law,Francesco
Sforza,whosedynasticcontrollastednearly100years.ThiswasthetimeoftheRenaissance,andthe
family’swealthallowedthemtoharnessthisintellectualandartisticluminescence.Theybuiltthe
CastelloSforzescoandOspedaleMaggiore(Ca’Granda)inMilanand,inaninspiredmove,brought
LeonardodaVincitothecity,wherehepaintedthegloriousCenacolo(LastSupper;formore
information,clickhere).
ItisworthnotingthatthesignorieffectednotjustculturalbutalsoeconomicchangeontheItalian
Lakes.Theydugcanals,begangrowingriceonthemarshesandplantedthousandsofmulberrytrees–so
developingComo’slucrativesilkindustry(formoreinformation,clickhere).
However,theydidnothaveitalltheirownway:theRepublicofVenice,LaSerenissima,whichhad
originatedduringtheyearsofLombardrule,alsotraileditselegantfingersacrossthelakelandlandscape.
ItsinfluencewasfirstfeltinVerona–thesnake-pitofpowerstrugglesandfamilyfeudsthatinspired
RomeoandJuliet.GovernmentwasinitiallydominatedbytheScaligeri(akadellaScala)family,who
alsoruledLakeGarda,scatteringitsshoreswithcastlesatMalcesine,LaziseandTorridelBenaco.But
eventuallytheylostpolepositiontotheseeminglyunstoppableViscontis.In1405,theVenetians,fearing
thatexpansionofMilancouldthreatenlucrativetraderoutes,seizedVerona,followedbyBresciaand
muchofLakeGarda(1426)andBergamo(1428).
Spanishpossession
Thetroublewiththesignoriwasthattheywereunabletoresistscheming.AnalliancebetweenFrancesco
SforzaandCosimode’MedicihadkeptpeacebetweenMilananditspowerfulsouthernneighbour
Florence.But,attheendofthe15thcentury,LudovicoSforza,hopingtogarneranallytocounteract
Venetianpower,suggestedthatCharlesVIIIofFranceinvadeItalyandtakeNaplesfromtheincumbent
Spanishrulers.AlthoughCharles(oncecruellydescribedas“small…ill-formed…withanuglyface…
andthicklipswhicharecontinuallyopen”)couldnotholdNaples,itsetthesceneforstrife.
TheFrenchattemptedtotaketheduchy,butwhenFrançoisItookMilanin1515,hecameupagainsta
powerfulopponent,CharlesofSpain.CharleswasnotjustkingofSpain,hewasheirtotheAustrian
Habsburglands,hadclaimstoNaples,possessedvastterritoriesinEurope–andwassoontobecome
CharlesV,HolyRomanEmperor(1519).Thoughphysicallyunprepossessing,withamisshapenjaw,gout
andchronicindigestion,hewasnotamantocross.
CastelloSforzesco,Milan.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Charles’stroopsdefeatedtheFrenchatPaviain1525,butalthoughheallowedtheSforzastoresume
theirrule,thefamilyhaddiedoutby1535andMilanwasagaincontested.Itwasnotuntil1559thatthe
FrencheventuallyrecognisedSpanishpossessionandtheItalianLakeswerereducedtothestatusofa
heavilytaxedSpanishprovinceforthenext170years.TheonlyexceptionswereBergamo,Bresciaand
Verona(whichVenicehadjustmanagedtoretain),andTrento(stillgovernedbyCatholicprince-bishops).
Thelakesalsobecamethesettingforecclesiastical,aswellasinternational,powerstruggles.The
exuberanceoftheRenaissancehadsparkedtheReformation,andthepapacywasdeterminedtoresistthis
Protestantchallenge.From1545–63,atsessionsoftheCouncilofTrent,theCatholicChurchcondemned
Protestantism,andsetthestageforpersecutionof“heretics”and“witches”(burningsatthestake
frequentlyoccurredintheValCamonica).AttendingthisinfluentialcouncilwasCarloBorromeo(1538–
84),whosefamilylaterleftaflamboyantBaroqueimprintonLakeMaggiore.
Habsburgrule
Theeconomydeclinedduringthefirstpartofthe17thcentury,nothelpedbyoutbreaksofplague.In1700,
thelastoftheSpanishHabsburgsdiedandtheFrenchkinglaidclaimtohis–notinconsiderable–
Europeanpossessions.ItsparkedtheWaroftheSpanishSuccession(1701–14),inwhichtheFrenchand
theAustriansfoughtfortheSpanishspoils.Theoutcome,decidedattheTreatyofUtrecht(1713),granted
Naples,Sardinia,MantuaandmostoftheDuchyofMilantoAustria.Powerinthelakeswasnowlargely
inAustrianHabsburghands–andtheysoonputinplacesomeenergisingreforms,influencedby
Enlightenmentthinking.
NapoleondirectstroopsintheBattleofRivoli.
TopFoto
BrothersAlessandroandPietroVerriworkedwiththeAustrianstointroducereformsineducation,
promotedideasoffreetradeandpublishedalivelyjournal;theirfriendCesareBeccaria(1738–94)
publishedabookoncrimeandpunishmentthatcondemnedtheuseoftorture.InMilan,theAccademiadi
BrerawasfoundedandLaScalawasbuilt(1778).
The18thcenturyalsosawthestartoftheGrandTour.Italybecameafashionabledestinationfor
youngEuropeanmenofmeansandRomanticpoets,paintersandimaginativethinkersweresoonbringing
theirmoneyandideastothelakes,especiallyComoandMaggiore.Butinthemidstofallthisgreat
thought,revolutionaryFrancewenttowaragainsttheAustrianimperialists–andNapoleoninvadedItaly.
GiuseppeGaribaldiandtheRisorgimento
AftertherestorationofAustrianrule,secretsocieties,suchastheCarbonari,fermentedrevolution.IntheirnewspaperIlRisorgimento,
CesareBalboandCountCavour,primeministerofPiedmont,campaignedforaconstitutionandgaveanametothemovementforItalian
unification.
In1848,therewasanuprisinginMilan,andCarloAlberto,thekingofPiedmont,declaredwaronAustria.GiuseppeGaribaldi(1807–82),
whohadmadehisnameasaswashbucklingfighterinSouthAmerica,hadreturnedtoItalytosupporttheRisorgimentocauseandfought
inMilanandRome.Althoughtheearlybattleswerelost,CavourwassoonabletoengineeranalliancewiththeFrenchand,withtheir
support,finallydefeatedtheAustriansinLombardyin1859.UprisingsinTuscanyandEmilialedtotheirunionwithPiedmont,meaning
thatmuchterritorywasnowinItalianhands.WiththesupportoftheBritish,Garibaldicollectedaforceof1,000men(theExpeditionof
theThousand)andsailedtoSicily.TogetherwithNaples,SicilywasunderBourbonrule,andGaribaldimanagedtoseizeboth.By1860,
unificationwaslargelycomplete,butGaribaldi,whohadfallenoutwithCavour,hadnopoliticalofficeandretiredtotheislandofCaprera,
offSardinia.
Napoleon’spuppet
In1796,NapoleontookMilan(wherehewasreceivedwithenthusiasm),BolognaandVerona.Hethen
establishedtheCisalpineRepublic(1797)inthenorth:itincludedtheDuchyofMilanandthewestern
partsoftheVenetianterritories,andhadMilanasitscapital.Inthesameyear,hedeclaredwaronVenice.
TheVenetianRepublicwasfinished–Napoleongrantedthepartshedidn’twanttoAustriainreturnfor
otherterritories.
TheCisalpineRepublicwasaFrenchcreationandremainedunderFrenchcontrol.Napoleonrenamed
ittheItalianRepublicin1802withhimselfaspresident.In1804,hepromotedhimselfagain–thistimeto
emperor.HeconvertedtheItalianRepublictotheKingdomofItalyin1805andwascrownedinMilan’s
Duomo.
Napoleon’squestforabsolutepowerwaseventuallyhaltedbyhisdefeatatWaterlooin1815,andat
theCongressofViennainthesameyear,AustriawasawardedLombardyandtheVeneto,aswellas
Trento.Theoldrulereturned.ButNapoleonhadleftanenduringlegacy:revolutionaryideasandthe
conceptofanall-embracing“Italian”state.
RisorgimentoforcesclashwithAustriantroopsinBrescia,1849.
Alamy
AnItaliankingdom
FromtheCongressofViennain1815tothetakingofRomein1870bythetroopsofKingVictor
EmmanuelII,thehistoryofItalywasonecontinuousstruggleforreunification.ThepeopleofLombardy
hatedthereimpositionofAustrianrule.Althoughtheregionbecamerelativelyprosperous,theAustrians
clampeddownonfreedomofexpression.Secretsocietiesgrewandrevolutionfermented–the
Risorgimentohadbegun.In1848theMilanesetooktothestreetsforfivedays(theCinqueGiornate)and
oustedtheirrulers,andin1849BresciaheldoutagainstAustriantroopsfor10days,givingitthe
nicknamethe“LionessofItaly”.In1859,RisorgimentoforcesdecisivelydefeatedtheAustriansatthe
battlesofSolferino(avillagebetweenMilanandVerona)andMagenta(justwestofMilan).Casualties
weresoappallingthattheypromptedthefoundingoftheRedCrossin1864.
LombardywasfinallycededtotheSavoymonarchVittorioEmanueleII,theBourbonswereremoved
fromthesouth,andin1860,theKingdomofItalywasborn.CompleteunificationcameaftertheAustrians
werefinallyoustedfromVeniceandtheVeneto(1866)andRome(muchtothefuryofthePope)wastaken
andannexedtothekingdomin1870.
Lombardyprospered.Grandbuildings,suchastheGalleriaVittorioEmanueleII,wereerectedin
Milan;theGotthardrailtunnelthroughtheAlpsopenedin1882,facilitatingtradewithnorthernEurope;
agricultureflourishedinthefertilePoValleyandindustrialisationproceededapace.TheBelleEpoque
wasapartytimethroughoutthelakes–thenwarbrokeoutoncemore.
Theworldatwar
Tosome,especiallytheIrredentists,Italywasstillnotunified.TheareaaroundTrento,forexample,was
Italian-speakingyetremainedanAustrianterritory.WhenWorldWarIbrokeoutin1914,Italywas
neutral,buttherewerevoices(includingthatofBenitoMussolini)infavourofwar.In1915,luredbythe
promiseofgainingland,ItalyjoinedtheAlliesandwasrewardedwithTriesteandTrentino.Reminders
oftheAlpinecampaigncanbeseenattheMuseodellaGuerraBiancainAdamello(formoreinformation,
clickhere).
Immediatelyafterthewar,therewasimmensesocialunrest,withdemonstrationsandstrikesincities
likeMilan.Inreaction,MussoliniformedhisFascistleagueofblackshirtsandseizedpowerin1922.In
1940,ItalyjoinedWorldWarIIalliedtoNaziGermanybutlaterswitchedsides.Attheendofthewar
MussoliniwaskilledandhisbodystrungupinMilan.
Post-warenterprise–andunrest
Afterthewar,thekingabdicated,andItalybecamearepublicin1946.Aclosealliancewasformedwith
America,andLombardyledaneconomicboom.Theoldenterprisingspirit,rootedintheautonomyofthe
medievalcomuni,wasrevived.Milan,badlybombedinthewar,grewintoaslickfinancialandmedia
centre.Atanationallevel,thecountrywasincreasinglyportrayedasdividedbetweenthewealthy,urban
northandthepoor,ruralsouth.
Politicalunrestcharacterisedthe1960sand1970s,asprotestersvoicedtheirdissatisfactionwiththe
government.Actsofterrorism,carriedoutbythefarleftandfarright,shookthecountryduringthese
YearsofLead(AnnidiPiombo).Therewereassassinations,andbombsinMilan(1969),Brescia(1974)
andBologna(1980).
Yettheeconomyinthenorthwasresilient,andwithGiorgioArmani,GianniVersaceandMiuccia
Pradainthecity,Milanbecameafashionableaswellasafinancialforce.
Mussolini
ThejackbootofBenitoMussolini,oneofthecentralfiguresofthefascistmovement,leftafirm
imprintonnorthernItaly.
Bornintoasocialistfamily,Mussolini(1883–1945)showednoearlydictatorialleanings,evenmovingtoSwitzerlandinanattemptto
dodgetheItaliandraft.HisfirstjobwasinTrento(theninAustria),buthewasexpelledforpoliticalagitation.BackinItaly,hebegan
editingtheofficialSocialistnewspaperAvanti,inMilan,opposingItalianentryintoWorldWarI,beforechanginghismind,influencedby
theIrredentists.
Risetopower
ExpelledbytheSocialistParty,hefoundedhisownpro-warpaperPopolod’Italia,butwashimselfconscripted.Woundedbyamortar
bombexplosioninhistrench,hewasdischargedfromservicein1917.Mussolinireturnedfromthefrontaviolentanti-socialist.In1919,
heformedtheFasciItalianidiCombattimento(ItalianCombatVeterans’League)inMilan.Black-shirtedmembersbeganrampaging
acrossthecountry,evensettingfiretotheAvantioffices.In1922,hemarchedonRome,intimidatingthekingsomuchthathewas
invitedtoformagovernment.WhenpoliticianGiacomoMatteottidaredtocondemnFascismhewasmurdered.Mussolinipublicly
declared:“I,andIaloneassumethepolitical,moralandhistoricalresponsibilityforallthathashappened.”
Ill-fatedalliances
By1925,IlDucehadabsolutecontrol.HecannilyformedanalliancewiththePope,makingtheVaticananindependentstateinreturnfor
papalacknowledgementoftheKingdomofItaly.Hethenimposedcensorshipofthepress,drainedthePontineMarshes,invadedEthiopia
(assistedbyliberaluseofpoisongas)andhelpedFrancointheSpanishCivilWar.MussolinisupportedHitler’sannexationofAustriaand
in1940enteredthewarasaNazially.
However,thewarwasnotpopularinItaly,andin1943,afterAlliedforceslandedinSicily,Mussolini’scolleagues(whoincludedhissonin-law)condemnedhisconductanddemandedthathego.Afteranaudiencewiththeking,IlDucewasarrestedandimprisonedinthe
Abruzzi.TheGermansspiritedhimawaytoLakeGarda,wherehewasmadeheadofapuppetstate,theRepublicofSalò(formore
information,clickhere).MussolinisettledcomfortablyintotheelegantlakesideVillaFeltrinelliwithhismistress,ClaraPetacci,
convenientlyensconcednearbyintheVillaFiordaliso.
Downfall
On25April1945,IlDucedeliveredhislastpublicspeechattheTeatroLiricoinMilanandalthoughhewasnomorethanjustafailed
puppetruleratthismomenthewasstillveryheartilyapplaudedbythegatheredcrowds.Onthesameday,MussoliniandClaratriedto
escapetoSwitzerlandhiddeninaGermanmilitarytransport.Theywerecaptured,however,bypartisanson27April1945inDongo,Lake
Como,andtakentoafarmhouse.Thenextday,partisancommanderColonelValeriodrovethemtoMezzegra,wheretheywerelinedup
againstawallandshot.On29April,theirbodies,withthoseof15otherexecutedFascists,weretakentoMilanandhung,upsidedown,
frommeathooksinthePiazzaleLoreto.
Mussolini,bypopulardemand.
Alamy
Scandal,successandseparatism
The1990ssawaseriesofpoliticalscandalsstrikeItaliansociety.Politicians,itemerged,werereceiving
backhanders(tangenti)forawardinglucrativebusinesscontracts.TheTangentopoli(“Bribesville”)
investigationbeganinMilan,spearheadedbyjudgeAntoniodiPietro.Atangledwebofcorruptionwas
revealed,andtheChristianDemocratParty,whichhaddominatedItalianpoliticssincetheformationof
therepublic,collapsed.ItopenedthewaytotheelectionofMilanesemediatycoonSilvioBerlusconiin
1994,whorompedtopoweronananti-corruptioncardwithhisright-wingForzaItaliaparty.
Berlusconi’sbusinessempiregavehimalmostcompletecontroloftheItalianmedia.Nostrangerto
chargesofunderhanddealing,hewasfrequentlyaccusedofusinghispoliticalofficetofurtherhis
businessinterests.Hestayedinpoweruntil2006,andwasre-electedin2008,butin2011onescandal
toomanyfinallyoustedhimfrompowerforgood.Berlusconiwassucceededbyeconomistandacademic
MarioMonti.In2013,EnricoLettareplacedMontiforashortwhilebeforebeingoustedbyMatteoRenzi
oftheDemocraticPartyin2014.
LegaNordgatheringinPontida,BergamoProvince.
Alamy
ThelakescontinueastheengineoftheItalianeconomy–albeitonethathassufferedtheeffectsofa
globaleconomicdecline.Touristsflocktotheirromanticshores,gaspattheirbeauty,lookforaglimpse
ofacelebrity–butthereareiron-andsteelworks,hydroelectricplantsandsilkfactoriesheretoo.The
areaconsidersitselfverydifferentfromthesouth(whichitviewsaslazyandcorrupt),andthereisevena
separatistparty–theLegaNord.MuchofitssupportcomesfromLombardy.Anotableboosttothe
region’seconomycamefromtheMilanExpoin2015.Lombardyalonecontributesabout20percentofthe
ItalianGDP,makingittherichestregioninthecountryandoneoftherichestinEurope.
ARTANDARCHITECTURE
BeyondanorthernItalianaesthetic,therearefewobviousunifyingstrandsrunning
throughthebewilderingarrayofartandarchitecturefoundintheItalianLakes.From
GothiccathedralstoVenetianart,allstylesarerepresented.
AsacrossroadsbetweentheAlpineandMediterraneanworlds,thelakeshavedippedintoadressing-up
boxofarchitecturalstyles,fromRomantoRococo,andBaroquetoBelleEpoque–occasionallyallat
once,whenwealthyownershaveturnedtheirresidencesintokingdomsofkitsch.Thelureofthelakes
continuestoattractwavesofoutsiders,eagertobuyaneoclassicalvillaorshapeahomeintheirown
eclecticimage.
Venetiancustomshouse,Lazise.
Fotolia
Artistically,thelakeshavebeeninfluencedbyVenetianandLombardschoolsofart,dependingonthe
vagariesofthepatronsofartandthecreativepowerhousesoftheday.Onecanteaseoutaloveofcolour
andlight,thelegacyofeffervescentVenetianart,andapassionforrealismandveracity,thelegacyofthe
moresoberLombardtradition.
ThecosmopolitannatureofthiscornerofItalyhasproducedanalluringhybridof
architecturalstyles:fromRomanesquetoRococo,BaroquetoBelleEpoque.
UnderlyingthisisadeepaffinityfortheRomanesque,anaturalbondforanyareasosteepedinthe
grandeurofRomancivilisation.Yetanysharedaestheticisdilutedbyregionaldiversity,reflectingthe
historicalpowershiftsinthelakes.Addtothemixtheprogressive,cosmopolitannatureofthisnorthern
cornerofItalyandtheresultisameltingpotofstyles:austereRomanesqueseguesintopinnacledGothic
andprincelyBaroque,beforepausingforbreathforfloridArtNouveauorFascisticMonumentalism.In
essence,thelakesrepresentoneofthemostbeguilingarchitecturalhybridsinItaly.
FrescofromSantaTrinità,TorridelBonaco,LakeGarda.
AnnaMockfordandNickBonetti/ApaPublications
TheVenetianlegacy
Regionalrivalriesandseparatehistoriesarereflectedinthelocalarchitectureandshapebroad
differencesbetweenLombardyandPiedmont,orTrentinoandtheVeneto.Thisisnotaclear-cutregional
dividethatreflectsmodern-dayboundaries:theVenetianEmpireonceruledmuchofthelakesandhasleft
aVenetianimprintonmodern-dayLombardy,particularlyinBergamoandBrescia,includingafondness
forbalconiesandastronomicalclocks.TheVenetianRepublicmarkedtheterritorywithstonelions,
whichsymbolisedthemightofLaSerenissima.(ThesymbolwasinhonourofStMark,traditionally
representedbyalion.)
MosaicsfromtheRomanvillaatDesenzano.
iStock
ModernVenetoisfarsmaller,buttheVenetianspirit,alongwiththeoddlion,survivesontheeastern
shoreofLakeGarda.TheportofLazisehasa16th-centuryVenetianCustomsHouse,whilePeschieralies
snuginVenetianbastions.ElegantVeronaremainsVenetian,evenifitsarchitectureowesasmuchtothe
precedingScaligeridynasty,whichleftthecityandlakesideresortswithbattlementedcastlesand
bridges.Thelegacyalsolingersonintheregionalartgalleries,whereGiovanniBellini’sluminous
MadonnasremindusthattheVenetianswerethesupremeartistsofcolourandlight.
IfVeronaisthestandard-bearerforVenice,MilanrepresentsLombardy,andBresciaiscaught
betweenthetwo.WhenBresciafellundertheswayoftheVenetianRepublicin1427,thenewrulers
createdthesymbolofRenaissanceBrescia,PiazzadellaLoggia,whichwasgracedwithloggias,
porticoesandanastronomicalclock.Thecentrepiece,LaLoggia,wasthetownhallstartedbySansovino
andcompletedbyPalladioin1562.ThispublicbuildingthusbearstheimprintoftwooftheVenetian
Republic’sgreatestarchitects.
RomanPlayground
TheRomansestablishedcoloniesinBrescia,Como,MilanandVerona,butLakeGardawastheirplayground,especiallythesparesortof
Sirmione.EvocativeruinsofavillaassociatedwithCatullus,Rome’sgreatestlyricpoet,arevisible(formoreinformation,clickhere),
matchedbyDesenzano’smosaicsfroma3rd-centuryADvilla.
AsBrixia,BresciawasaprominentRomancityandstillhasthegreatestconcentrationofremainsnorthofRome,withnewvillas
recentlyunearthed.TheAmphitheatrestandsclosetotheForumandtheCapitolium,withtheCapitolineTempleerectedbyEmperor
VespasianinAD73.
SeveralPompeian-styleRomanvillasareincorporatedintoBrescia’sexceptionalSantaGiuliaMuseum,whichdisplaysbusts,statuaryand
mosaicsfromlakesidevillas,aswellastheWingedVictory,thegreatestHellenisticsculptureinLombardy.
ThefinestRomanremainsarevisibleinVerona,wheretheArenaissecondonlytoRome’sColosseum.Designedtoholdtheentire
20,000-strongpopulation,itisthethird-largestintheworldandthebest-preserved.EvenifcriticsdecrytheAmphitheatreasaplace
wheretheframeoutshinesthepicture,thesitehasresonance,andtherosypinkmarblestepswillsurviveusall.
Lombardlongevity
Lombardyhasexertedevenmoreinfluence.Medievalmerchantswhogrewrichonsilkandweaponry,the
astuteLombardsbuilttolast,fromRomanesqueabbeysandmonasteriestoGothictownhallsand
cathedrals,culminatinginthepinnacledsplendourofMilan’sDuomo.
IftheLombardworkethicandingrainedCatholicismmanifestedthemselvesascathedralsand
monasteries,Piedmontesereligiosityoftentooktheformofshrinesandstatuary.OnLakeOrta,Piedmont
hasoneofthefinestSacriMonti,thedevotionalshrinesandMariansanctuariesthataddanairof
spiritualitytothiscornerofthelakes(formoreinformation,clickhere).LakeMaggiore,theprincipal
patchofPiedmontonthelakes,isashrinetoalivingdynasty,theprincelyBorromeanclan,whocreated
palacesontheBorromeanIslands,avastmonumenttothesaintedCharlesBorromeo(1538–94)inArona,
andamagnificentcastleonthefarbank(formoreinformation,clickhere).
InmountainousTrentino,northofLakeGarda,therugged,borderlandsnatureoftheregiondeemsthat
castlesarethegreatestlegacy,alongwithgrandpalaceslinkedtotheprince-bishopswhooncetreated
Trentinoastheirpersonalfiefdom.ThefurthernorthonegoesfromLakeGarda,thegreaterthesenseofan
Alpinespirit,withaTyroleanstamponthevillages,aclearlegacyfromtheeraoftheAustro-Hungarian
Empire.
PiazzadellaLoggia,Brescia.
Shutterstock
Architecturally,thelakescometogetherintheRenaissance,Baroqueandneoclassicaleraswhen
villa-buildingflourished,withever-granderbucolicresidencesbuiltontheshoresoflakesComo,
MaggioreandGarda.Thelakesthenreturnedtobeingasought-afterretreat,muchastheyhadbeenin
theiroriginalRomanheyday.
FromRomantoRomanesque
IftheRomanstreatedLakeGardaasprimerealestate,withthesparesortsafavouredlocationfortheir
villas,theLongobardstreatedLombardy,particularlyBresciaandPavia,astheirpowerbaseand
spiritualhome.TheLongobardera(6th–8thcenturies)andtheCaroliningianera(8thcenturytotheearly
10thcentury)wereagoldenageforBresciaandLakeGarda,evenifmanychurcheswereincorporated
intolatermedievalstructures,aswithSanSeveroinLaziseorSanZenoinBardolino.Brescia’sSanta
GiuliadisplaysItaly’smostpreciousartworkfromtheLongobarderawhich,intrueItalianfashion,
recyclesearliertreasures:TheCrossofDesiderius,createdforthelastkingoftheLombards,isa
glittering8th-centurymasterpiece,studdedwithRomangemstonesandcameos.
CrossofDesiderius,MuseodiSantaGiulia,Brescia.
Alamy
IntheformerRomancoloniesofBrescia,Milan,Como,BergamoandVerona,theimprintofRoman
architecturewasreinterpretedasRomanesque.Sant’AmbrogioinMilan,datingfromthe9thcentury,is
theprototypeoftheLombardRomanesque,andspawnedarashofsimilarchurchesallovertheLombardy
sideofthelakes.Setonacolonnadedquadrangle,thechurchischaracterisedbyatriangularfacade,
porticoesanddecorativeblindarcading,knownasLombardbands.Capitalscarvedwithmythicalbeasts
reflectaloveofsculpturethatreacheditsapogeewiththeMaestriComaciniandMaestriCampionesi,the
lakes’travellingconfraternitiesofmasterbuilders,stonemasonsandsculptors(formoreinformation,
clickhere).
GrotesquesandGiants
Thelakesaredottedwithmemorablestatues,fromthegrotesqueBaroquecreaturesonIsolaBellatoCanova’sneoclassicalcouple,
CupidandPsyche,inVillaCarlotta.InValCamonica,thechurchofSantuariodiViaCrucisdisplaysaseriesofdistinctlykitschStations
oftheCross,with200life-size18th-centurystatues.
StrangestofallisahugebronzestatueofStCharlesBorromeo,theéminencegriseoftheCounter-Reformation,inthelakesidetownof
Arona.KnownasSanCarlone(BigSaintCharlie),thestatueinvitesvisitorstoclimbthestairsinsideandpeeroutatthelakethroughthe
eyesofthesaint.
TheRomanesquephasewasoneofthemostgloriouseras,especiallyinLombardyandVerona.Como
hasalwaysbeenanaspirationalcity,beginningwithitsearlyprominenceasaRomantown.Asaresult,
theRomanesquestyleiswovenintothewarpandweftofthecityfabric,fromfacadesandfortified
towerstothesimplicityofthechurchofSanFedele.Bycomparison,Verona’sSanZenoMaggiorestands
outasthemostelaborateRomanesquechurchinnorthernItaly,withitsrosewindowencasedinasuperb
facade,matchedbyamagnificentsculptedporchandornatebronzedoorpanels.Butthestrengthofthe
RomanesquestyleisthatitsarchitecturalvigourextendstothesmallestchurchesinValCamonica,which
standasstarkbeaconsabovethevalley.
Gothicglories
TheGothicstyle,importedfromFrance,haslessresonanceinthelakes,withseveralstunningexceptions.
Milan’sSant’AmbrogiomightbetheblueprintforLombardRomanesquechurches,butthecity’sDuomo,
Europe’slargestGothiccathedral,ismoreeclectic.AMilaneseexpression,“lungocomelafabbricadel
Duomo”(aslongasthebuildingofthecathedral),speaksvolumesfortheMilanesesenseofurgency.
Thisdaring,unfinishedmasterpiecewasstartedin1386andseamlesslyblendsGothic,Baroque,
neoclassicalandneo-Gothicstyles.Flyingbuttressesandsoaringpinnaclescontrastwiththeexcessive
widthpreferredbynativeLombardbuilders.UnlikeFrenchGothic,whichstrivedforspiritualitythrough
toweringverticality,LombardGothicstresseswidthandsolidity,senseoversensibility,andpowerover
principle–thesolidvaluesofthemerchantclass.
InComo,theDuomo,begunin1396,hasanintricategabledfacadeandspansthetransitionfromlate
GothictoRenaissance,witharichlysculptedmainportal.Flankingthecathedralisthebelltowerand
magnificentBroletto,theformertownhall,anarcadedGothicaffairwithtriple-archedwindows.
Intheearly15thcentury,manycitieswereunderVenetiansway,whichcanbeseeninBrescia’s
gracefulRenaissancesquaresandanastronomicalclocktower.TheSereneRepublicalsofortifiedits
tradingpostsonLakeGarda,includingthewalledportofLazise.MostcharmingofallistheVenetian
influenceonBergamo,fromtheGothicwindowstotheheraldiclions,thesymbolofLaSerenissima.
Bergamo,aperfectlypreservedmedievalhill-town,retainsitsVenetiansoul:400yearsofrulehaveleft
theirmarkintheelegantarchitectureandsymbolsoftheSereneRepublic.TheRenaissancemasterpieces
extendtosculpture,notablyintheCappellaColleoni,designedasafunerarymonumenttothelegendary
condottiereBartolomeoColleoni,arichmercenaryleader,blessedwithajewelboxofamausoleum,
swathedinLombardRenaissancefinery.
TheDuomoinMilan.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Castlesandconvents
AsagatewaytoAlpineEurope,thelakesarealsocastlecountry,withmostmedievalportspossessinga
hulkingfortress.Twoimposingmedievalcastlesstandabovethefray:Sirmione’sRoccaScaligera,a
moated13th-centuryfortresscrownedbyswallow-tailedbattlements,andAngera’sRoccaBorromeo,a
broodingBorromeanstrongholdonthequietersideofLakeMaggiore.
Asfearsofinvasionfaded,feudalcastlesweretransformedintoluxuriousvillas.NearLakeIseo,
CastellodiBornatoisacrenellatedmedievalcastlewhichopensontoaRenaissancevillaandItalianate
gardens.OnLakeGarda,RivaisdominatedbytheRocca,amoatedmedievalcastlethattypifiesthe
transitionfromfeudalfortresstopatricianresidence.
Althoughstillframedbycornertowers,theoriginalfortress,completewitharsenalandbarracks,
gavewaytoaRenaissancepleasurepalacefortherulingprince-bishopsofTrento,withtheresidence
furtherdomesticatedinAustro-Hungariantimes.
Despiteaflurryofbuilding,theRenaissancewasfarfrombeingthecoherent,revolutionaryforcethat
itwasinTuscany.AlthoughtheregionpossessespureRenaissancechurches,farmorearehybrids,the
resultofchangingtastesandgradualaccretions.Whetherinconventsorvillas,theRenaissancewas
constrainedtoaccommodateotherstyles.SantaCaterina,overlookingLakeMaggiore,istypical,oneof
thefinestmonasticcomplexesinLombardy,andaharmoniousmixtureofperiods,fromtheGothicbell
towerandfrescoestotheRenaissanceporchlookingacrosstotheBorromeanIslands.
“ThePoorMan’sSistineChapel”,byRomanino,aBrescianpainter,inSantaMariadellaNeve.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
InBrescia,SantaGiuliaMuseodellaCittà,setinaformerconvent,isboththebesthistorymuseumin
northernItalyandabeguilingcomplexshowcasingBrescia’spastthatembracesRomanvillas,a
Byzantinebasilica,anuns’choirandaRomanesqueoratory,allbuiltonthesamesite.
Landmarkvillas
Asforpalatialresidences,manywereorignallybuiltasconvents.OnLakeComo,thelovelyVilla
Balbianelloisaprimeexample.ItstartedoutasaFranciscanfoundationbeforetakingthesecularpathto
paradise.Manyofthe16th-centurywatersidevillashavelosttheirRenaissancespirit,butVillaCicogna
Mozzoni,outsideVarese,remainsatrueLombardRenaissancevilla.AnotherLakeComolandmark,Villa
d’Este,ispartauthentic,parthybrid:althoughtransformedintoapalatialhotel,this16th-centuryformer
royalresidenceisstillframedbyManneristgardensenlivenedbystatuary,secretgrottoesandagrand
waterstairway.
TheWallsofDeath
GothicandRenaissanceartiswellrepresentedintheregion,particularlyintheformoffrescoes,whichdepictawiderrangeofsubject
matterthanfoundinmostofItaly.NorthofLakeGarda,Trento’sRenaissancefacadesaresurpassedbytheGothicfrescoesinthecity’s
CastellodelBuonconsiglio,depictingtheagriculturalcalendar.
OnLakeMaggiore,themonasteryofSantaCaterinaishometoachillingGothicDanseMacabre,aDanceofDeathcompletewitha
verygrimGrimReaper.Otherscenesdepictthevanityofhumanwishes:bothamerchantengrossedinhisaccountsandacourtierinlove
withhisladyarefacedwiththeirownmortality.
Clusone,inBergamo’sValleSeriana,displaysevenmoredisturbingDanceofDeathfrescoes,whichdecoratethefacadeoftheChiesa
deiDisciplini.Heldupasamorallesson,theGothicfrescoescomparethedifferentattitudestowardsdeathheldbythewealthyandthe
poor.
OnLakeIseo,SantaMariadellaNeveisashowcasetoRenaissancepainter,GirolamoRomani,knownas‘Romanino’(c.1484–1559).
TheBrescian-bornpainterisrenownedforhisrealisticanddynamicportraitsofcontemporaries.Knownasapoorman’sSistineChapel,
thechurchisfrescoedwithpeasant-likefacesthatarestillfoundinValCamonica.
Baroqueextravagance
TheBaroquestylefounditstruestexpressioninTurin,ratherthanMilan,butonthelakesisbest
representedbytheBorromeanfollies.AlthoughIsolaBellabeganaslittlemorethanarockwithaview,it
becamebothaBaroquemasterpieceandahollowexerciseinone-upmanship.Somewhatironicallyfora
familywhosemottoishumility,theturretedBorromeanpalaceisabombasticaffair.Fromthegilded
throneroomtotheEmpire-styleballroom,ostentatioussalonsareencrustedwithstuccoworkand
emblazonedwithheraldiccrests.Lapsesintasteareredeemedbythegenuinegrandeurofthecantilevered
spiralstaircaseandbyanartcollectionof16th–18th-centuryVenetianandLombardartists.Ifthe
overwhelmingimpressionisofanofficialresidence,theRococopalaceontheadjoiningIsolaMadre
representsawarmer,moreprivatesidetotheprincelyclan.Outsidethemajorcities,trueBaroqueworks
arerare.OnLakeOrta,theloftysanctuaryofMadonnadelSasso,perchedonagraniteoutcrop,isa
frescoedBaroquechurchwithstunningviewsoverthemountainsandlake.
MadonnawithChild(1475,detail)byBellini,fromtheCastelvecchioinVerona.
Alamy
Althoughastifling,passionlessform,theneoclassicalspiritfounditsgreatestexpressioninlakeside
villasandinMilan’scoveredgalleries,whichareatriumphofengineering.GalleriaVittorioEmanuele
remainsthequintessentialMilaneseshoppingmall.OnLakeComo,theaustereneoclassicalVillaMelziis
setinthefirst“English”gardensonthelake,whileVillaOlmoisagrandiosegem,matchedbyformal
gardensandalakesidepromenade.
VillaCarlottamaybeaBaroquevillawithatheatricalstaircase,buttheexuberanceactsasafoilto
thecoolneoclassicalinterior,whichisburstingwithstatuary,includingCanova’scelebratedCupidand
Psyche.
LombardandVenetianart
ThelakesareparticularlyrichinRenaissanceandManneristartintheVenetianandLombardtraditions,
thoughindividualgeniusessuchasLeonardodaVinci,AndreaMantegnaandCaravaggiotranscendneat
categories.WorksbytheLombardmasterscanbeadmiredinchurchesandgalleriesallovertheregion,
especiallyinMilan’sPinacotecadiBrera,thefinestcollectionofnorthernItalianart.
Venetianartisthemostprestigiousaffair,withgreaterinfluenceandmorebrilliantmasters,ranging
fromGiovanniBellinitoVeronese,TitianandTintoretto,allofwhomarerepresentedinthelakes.
Venetiansensibilityreflectedashimmering,wateryworld.Whilelackingthepurityandperspectiveof
Florentineart,itembodiesapoetic,painterlysensibilityatoddswiththerational,monumentaland
sculpturalFlorentinestyle.GiovanniBellini(c.1430–1516)isconsideredthefounderoftheVenetian
school,thepainterwhofreedartfromitsByzantinestiffness,creatingluminousMadonnas,andinfusing
hisartwithlight,literallyseenasamediumofgrace.HisworkisondisplayinCastelvecchioinVerona,
alongwithotherlateGothicandRenaissanceVenetianart,includingworksbyPisanello,Tintoretto,
VeroneseandJacopoBellini.
InthesamegalleryisTheHolyFamilybyMantegna,GiovanniBellini’sPaduanbrother-in-lawand
theartistfromtheVenetianschoolwhomostinfluencedhim.AlsoinVerona,SanZenoMaggioreishome
toMantegna’sVirginandChild,analtarpiecethatechoestheshapeoftherosewindow.Instead,
Mantegna’sDeadChrist(c.1480)isoneofthemasterpiecesinMilan’sPinacotecadiBrera.This
disturbinglybrilliantwork,anexerciseinboldforeshortening,wasfoundamongtheartist’spossessions
afterhisdeath.TheBreradisplaysmasterpiecesfromallItalianschools,includingworksbyCaravaggio
aswellasbyPierodellaFrancesca,depictingthedukeofUrbinoinMilanesearmourinhisMontefeltro
Altarpiece(1475).
ItisinvidioustosingleoutRenaissanceartistswhomostshapedthelakes,butLeonardodaVinci
standsout.InvitedbythedukeofMilan,LeonardousedhisMilanesesojournstodevelophissfumato
technique,thesmokyshadingthataccentuatedhismystique.InMilan,TheLastSupper(Cenacolo
Vinciano)isoneoftheworld’smostevocativepaintings,setinthemonasticrefectoryitwasdesigned
for.Afteracontroversialrestoration,themasterpiecehasregaineditslustre.Leonardochosetousethe
techniquesofoilpaintingratherthanthemoredurabletechniquesoffresco-painting,butagainstallthe
oddsthefragileworkhassurvivedboththepassageofNapoleonictroopsandAlliedbombing,which
destroyedtherestofthemonasteryin1943.
GivenVenetianruleovermuchofthearea,combinedwithLaSerenissima’sartisticpre-eminence,the
Lombard/Venetiandistinctionisoftenblurred.Titian,verymuchaVenetianartist,createdtheAveroldi
Altarpiece(1522)forBrescia’schurchofSantiNazaroeCelso.ThepoignantdepictionofStSebastian,
withitsmuscularrealismportrayedinavividstyle,greatlyinfluencedtheBrescianschool.
AccademiaCarrara,Bergamo.
Photoshot
Home-growngenius
AlthoughnotinthesameleagueastheFlorentineorVenetianschools,theLombardRenaissance
flourishedwiththeworksofVincenzoFoppa(1427–1514),leaderoftheBrescianschool,whose
MercantiAltarpieceisahighlightinthecity’sMartinengogallery.GirolamoRomanino(d.1561)isone
ofthefinesthome-grownRenaissanceartists,withhispioneeringrealismandcommontouchseenin
memorableworksthroughoutLombardy,particularlyaroundLakeIseoandValCamonica.Bergamo’s
AccademiaCarrara,arepositoryofVenetianandLombardart,displaysworksbytheGothicmaster
Pisanello,aswellasluminouspaintingsbyGiovanniandJacopoBellini.ItismatchedbyBrescia’s
Martinengogallery,showcasingtheBrescianmasters,includingMoretto,themostgrandioseandclassical
ofartists,whopresagesCaravaggioinhismutedcolourpaletteandbroodingsenseofchiaroscuro.
ThemostcelebratedLombardartistisCaravaggio(1573–1610),oftencalled“themasterof
chiaroscuro”andafounderofmodernpainting.Asaforceofnature,ananarchicrebelofanartist,
Caravaggiocreatedworksofunparalleleddramaandintensity.HispaintingsondisplayinMilan’s
PinacotecadiBreraandPinacotecaAmbrosianaincludeABasketofFruit,deemedoneoftheearliest
Italianattemptsatstilllife.
TriennaleDesignMuseum,Milan.
Alamy
Themarchtomodernity
Forallitsloveofthepast,theregionisnotmaroonedinanartistictimewarp.Architecturally,the
Mussolinieraleftadisquietingimprintonthelakes,especiallyinthepublicsquaresofMilan,Varese,
BresciaandBergamo.ButsuchponderousMonumentalismalsoproducedthemasterpiecethatisMilan
CentralStation.
Asthemostforward-lookingregioninItaly,Lombardyclaimsthegreatestspoilsintermsofmodern
artanddesign,rivalledbyPiedmont.InVarese,VillaPanzaisashowcaseofAmericanAbstractartand
contemporaryinstallations,whileBergamo’smodernartgallerydisplaysworksbyKandinskyand
GrahamSutherland.Milan,themoderndesignmecca,boaststheTriennaleexhibitionhub,withthe
alluringnewDesignLibraryandDesignMuseum.
InRovereto,northofLakeGarda,theMuseodeArteModernaeContemporanea(MART)isoneof
Italy’sfinestmodernartmuseums,andisaboldventureaspiringto“theGuggenheimeffect”.TheMART
showcasesmodernEuropeanartists,includingPicasso,DalíandMiró,andcoversSymbolism,American
PopArtandItalianArtePovera.ThestrongestcollectionfeaturestheFuturists,anItalian-centred
movementthatemphasiseddynamism,revolutionandconstantchange,ledbyMarinetti,Boccioniand
localartistDepero.TheFuturistManifestodecriedthebourgeoispast–“Wewilldestroymuseumsand
libraries”–butfortunatelytheirworksareondisplayhere,intruebourgeoisfashion.
Asfordomesticarchitecture,thelakes’enduringappealtowealthyoutsidershasencouragedanew
waveofeclecticism,particularlyonLakeComo,Italy’sBeverlyHills,butalsoonLakeMaggioreand
LakeGarda.Notthatlavishtastesarenewtothelakes.Justas19th-centurycomposersandoperadivas
fellforMoorishfolliesandneoclassicalgems,contemporarymoviestarsandmediamogulsoptfor
pastichesofFrenchNormanchâteaux,Scottishbaronialcastles,BelleEpoquevillasandPalladianpiles.
ThemarriageofmoneyandbadtastemeansthataSwissmountainchalet,aminiatureVersaillesora
glorifiedhuntinglodgeareequallyprobable.TheItalianLakeshaveseenitall.
WILDLIFEOFTHEITALIANALPS
Theimmense965km(600-mile)rampartoftheAlpsdeterminesthegeographyof
northernItaly.Itsnationalparksprotectadiverserangeoffloraandfauna,including
animalsthatwerehunteduntilrecently,suchaslynxes,wolvesandbears.
TheAlpswereformedwhentheseabedwasliftedupbythemovementoftheEarth’stectonicplates,then
mouldedandsculpturedbythemovementofglaciersduringtheIceAge.About90millionyearsago,a
largetropicalocean,theTethys,whichseparatedtheAfricanandEuropeancontinents,begantoclose.
Fortymillionyearslater,thetwotectonicplatescollidedbeneaththeTethysandafragmentofAfrica
lockedwiththeEuropeanlandmass.Thesedimentsoftheseaweresubjectedtoenormouspressurewhich
gaverisetomassivesheet-likefoldsofrock–ornappes–thatroseoutoftheseaandpushednorthwards,
slidingandbreakingoveroneanothertoformmassivethrustfaults.
GlacierintheOrtlerAlps,AltoAdige.
Dreamstime
TheItalianLakeswerecreatedduringthelastIceAge,theresultofglaciersthrusting
downfromtheAlpsandgougingoutdeepvalleys.Astheicemeltedinthevalley
bottoms,thelakeswereformed.
Inthefinalstage,astheoceandisappeared,alargemassofmaterialwhichwasoriginallyfartothe
southwaspressedontoandoverthedeepoceanlayers.Thus,youngersedimentsareoverlaidbymore
ancientmaterialinsomeareas,andinvalleysitispossibletoseethecrystallinerocksoftheoriginal
proto-continent,some400millionyearsold.
GentianarejustoneofmanyspeciesofflowerfoundintheItalianAlps.
iStock
TheIceAge
Thelandscapeweseetodayisonlyaroundtwomillionyearsold,datingtotheQuartenaryPeriod(which
wasalsotheIceAge),whichdidsomuchtoremodeltheregion.Atthattime,itwasglaciersratherthan
riversthatflowedsouthfromtheAlps,andallwasenvelopedinavastmantleofice.Engulfingthe
surroundinglandupto1,000metres(3,280ft)deepinicymasses,theslowenormityoftheglaciers’force
gougedoutthebottomsofthevalleys,depositingmoraine–thedebrispluckedfromthevalleyfloor,from
silttolargeboulders.ThecharacteristicV-shapeappearanceoftheglacialvalleysdeepened,producing
giganticbasinsthat,oncetheglaciers’tonguesoficehadretreated,leftvastlakesoffreshwater.
TheDolomitesatsunset.
Bigstockphoto
Atadepthof410metres(1,345ft),ComoisoneofEurope’sdeepestlakes.Itsnorthernendis
reminiscentofafjordshowingthecharacteristicV-formedcross-sectionofridges.LakeGarda,the
largestlake,is346metres(1,135ft)deep,andthemorainedepositscontribute149metres(489ft)tothat
depth.Thesheerthicknessofthemoraineallowsitsextensionintotheplainfaroutofitsvalley,makingit
uniqueamongthelakesinhavingalmostathirdofitslengthoutsideitsconfiningridges.Therichdeposits
ofthemorainehavealsogivenGarda’sshorelineafertilityhardlymatchedbytheotherlakes.Yet,like
theothers,thenorthernreachesareconfinedbyhighridgeswithasimilarfjord-likeappearance.
Thecoralmountains
Named“themostbeautifulnaturalarchitectureonearth”bythefamousFrencharchitectLeCorbusier,the
DolomitesaregeologicallyverydifferentfromthemainbodyoftheAlps.Thecrenellatedspires,soaring
towersandjaggedpeaksofthesespectacularpink-tingedmountainslendasurrealqualitytothe
landscape.
Itwasthe18th-centuryFrenchmineralogistDolomieuwhogavethename“Dolomite”tothese
mountains.ThemassifsdivideintotheeasternandwesternDolomites,eachformedunderslightly
differentconditions.Thewesternmassifroseasamoreorlesssingleblockfromformertropicalislands.
Whentheregionwascoveredbythetropicalseasome230millionyearsago,theaccumulationofmarine
invertebrates,coralandalgaecreatedislandsandmudflats.Thesedepositsbecametherockknownas
Sciliardolomite–thecoreofthewesternmassif.Duringthatperiod,eruptingvolcanoesspewedlava
intothesea,whichcooledinthegapsbetweenthe“tropical”islands,leavingbehindthedark-brown
volcanicrockstillvisibletodayinplacessuchasValdiFassaandValGardena.
BythetimeofthelateTriassicperiod,theareawasahugetidalflatcoveredwithmarinesediment
which,whencompressed,becametheDolomiaPrincipale–therockthatcharacterisestheeastern
Dolomites.Moreandmorelayersofmarinedetrituswereembedded,whichremainedundisturbeduntil
around60millionyearsagointheTertiaryPeriodwhenEuropeandAfricacollided.Unlikethewestern
massif,whichwassupportedbylayersofancientrockandroseasanundeformedblock,theeastern,less
protectedside,hadseverebucklingandfolding,androseaselongatedhumps.Tofane,Cristalloandthe
DolomitidiSestoareallgoodexamplesofthesevastbanksofrock.Thecharacteristicpinkappearance
oftheDolomitestodayisaresultoferosionbywaterandicewhichhasrevealedtheoriginalTriassic
coral.
Theenrosadira,whenthejaggedpinnaclesandpeaksoftheDolomitesturnpinkandthenfieryredas
thesunsinks,isoneoftheworld’smostmagnificentspectacles.
ThetoweringpeaksoftheAlpsandtheDolomitespresideoverforestedwilderness,
Alpinepastures,meadowscarpetedbywildflowers,vineyardsinthefoothillsand
orchardsinthevalleys.
Piedmontpeaks
ApartfromWesternEurope’sthreetallestmountains,MonteBianco(MontBlanc),MonteRosaand
MonteCervino(theMatterhorn),manyarespreadacrossPiedmont,literallyat“thefootofthe
mountains”,pepperedwithnumerousparks.TheValsesiaisEurope’shighestnatureconservationarea,
whiletheGranParadisowasItaly’sfirstnationalparkandisoneofthefinest.
ClosetoLakeMaggiore,theValGrande,withitsbarrenpeaks,lonelyvalleysanduntrackedpaths,is
thelargestuninhabitedandmostextensivewildernessareaintheAlps.Themountainsmaybelowin
comparisonwiththesoaringpeaksofMonteRosatothewest,buttheyarenonethelessextremely
impressive,withtheValGrandeRiverattheheartoftheparkfedbywaterfallsandrivuletscrashing
throughsteep-sidedgorges.
Therearewell-knownlegendsintheAltaValsesiaofhiddenlakesbrimmingwithliquidsilver.The
springwatersaboveMacugnagaaresaidtocomefromalostvalleythatwasoncehometotheValle
d’Aosta’searlytribes.But,belowground,realgoldglistens,andtheareaaroundMacugnagawasonce
famousforitsmines.TheGuiaGoldMinewasthefirstintheAlpstobeopenedtothepublic,andthe
guidedtourshowstheveinsofshimmeringironpyrite(tantalisingfool’sgold).
Standingat4,633metres(15,200ft),theMonteRosarangeisthesecond-highestintheAlpsafter
MontBlanc.Famousforits“Himalayanrockface”,MonteRosaisnamednotafterthecolourpink,but
ratherfromthelocalpatoisroisaorroese,whichmeans“ice-covered”.Itsextensiveglaciersare
honeycombedwithcrevasses,anditisoneofthefewremainingmajorglaciatedareasintheAlps.
TheMarmoladaglacierintheDolomites.
Dreamstime
Recedingglaciers
GlaciersproducedthemagnificentlakesoftheAlpinefoothills–Garda,IseoMaggiore,Comoand
Lugano–fashionedfromabovebytonguesoficeanddammedbelowbyterminalmoraines.Butthe
patternofrisingtemperatures,believedtobecausedbyglobalwarming,meansthatglaciersarereceding.
Between1990and2000,undergroundtemperatureshadrisennearly1°C–threetimesfasterthanatany
othertimeduringthe20thcentury.AftertheMarmoladaglacierintheDolomitesshed2metres(6.5ft)of
iceinonlytwodays,revealingremnantsofbunkers,barracksandstorageareasbuiltbyAustro-Hungarian
troopsduringWorldWarI,itisnowclosedtosummerskiers.Areportonclimatechangebythe
OrganisationforEconomicCo-operationandDevelopmentispredictingthedisappearanceof75percent
ofAlpineglacierswithin45years,asurgeinavalanchesandfloods,andtheclosureofallbutthehighest
skiresorts.WalterMaggi,ageologistatMilanUniversity,saidthattheclosureshadcomeafterlow
rainfallinthespringandveryhightemperaturesinJuneandJuly.“Buttherearedeepercauses,”hesaid.
“Thefingerofsuspicionpointsatglobalwarming.”Timewilltell.
VictorianTrailblazers
WhiletheDolomiteswerenamedafteraFrenchman,itwastheexploitsofVictorianmountaineersthat
putthesemajesticmountainsfirmlyonthemap.
In1837,JohnMurrayPublishersproducedaguidetotheAlpswhichmentionedtheDolomitesinprintforthefirsttime.Thiswasthespur
thatsentsomanyBritishmountaineerstoexplorethepeaks,andledtothefoundingoftheAlpineClubofLondon(nowGreatBritain),
thefirstAlpineassociationintheworld.Theclubmembersincludedaristocratsandbetter-offmiddleclasses,theonlyVictoriansocial
layersthatcouldaffordspendingmuchmoneyandtimeonquitearomantichobby–climbingAlpinepeaks.TheBritishmountaineers
wouldemphasizemembershipoftheirAlpineClubbywriting“AC”nexttotheirnameswhenregisteringatAlpineinnsandshelters.
RockclimbingbecameanimportantactivityofVictorianmountaineersintheDolomites,andelsewhereintheAlps.
In1852,JohnBall,thefirstPresidentoftheclub,wasalsothefirsttoscaletheBrentaDolomites,usingaroutethatisstillstandardtoday.
Ball’sGuideoftheEasternAlps(1868)confirmedhisstatusasatrailblazingmountaineer.
DouglasFreshfieldandFrancisFoxTuckettalsoledexpeditions,andhavehadpassesandAlpinerefugesnamedafterthem.In1864,
theycrossedtheSanMartinoDolomites,afeatthatstunnedthemountaineeringcommunityastheteameschewedmapsandequipment
forintuition,staminaandskill.EvenTuckett’ssister,Elizabeth,wasaseasonedAlpinetraveller:herAlpineJournalincludessketchesof
theascentoftheCimondellaPalemadebyEdwardRobsonWhitwellin1870.Knownas“theMatterhornoftheDolomites”,thiswasthe
lastmajorBritishconquest.
LeslieStephen,thefatherofnovelistVirginiaWoolf,wasakeenmountaineerandPresidentoftheAlpineClub(1866–1888)who
exploredthePalediSanMartinogroupin1869,crossingPassodiBall,thepassnamedafterJohnBall.Instead,alastingmemorialto
TuckettisthestrikingAlpineinnnamedafterhim,RifugioTuckett,setabovethechicresortofMadonnadiCampiglio.
Womenpioneers
Victorianwomenwereequallypassionateaboutthemountains.ElizabethFoxTuckettwasthefirstillustratortoturnherAlpine
adventuresintochildren’sstories.AmeliaEdwardsrecountedtheexploitsofherpeersinUntroddenPeaksandUnfrequentedValleys
(1872).Sheexploredthepeaksonhorsebackandwarnedagainstthehardshipsofthecrags:“Thepassagesaretoolongandtoofatiguing
forladiesonfoot,andshouldnotbeattemptedbyanywhocannotendureeightandsometimestenhoursofmule-riding.”Edwardswas
particularlyfascinatedbythetallpeaksofCimondellaPaleintheSanMartinogroup.ShefoundthemassifsimilartoaPharaonic
pyramid.
AlthoughtheBritishlegacyliveson,intheformofsuchfinemountaineersasChrisBonington,thebatonhaspassedtoItalian
mountaineersofthestatureofthegreatReinholdMessner.Evenso,theBritishAlpinejournalsstillmakeinspiringreading.
Mountaineersscaleapeakc.1900.
Corbis
Lakevistas
ThemostromanticofthelakesmustbeComo,anamazingwishboneshapesurroundedbyrugged
limestonemountains.ThisfabledlakeisavoluptuousblendoftheAlpineandtheexotic,ofcool,lofty
mountainsandMediterranean-stylewarmth.AftertheexpansivebeautiesofLakesComoandMaggiore,
LakeLuganoismoreuntamedandwild.SirJohnLubbock,inTheSceneryofSwitzerland,commentsthat
it“owesitscomplexformtothefactthatitconsistsoftwolongitudinalandtwotransversevalleys
dammedupbymoraines”.JohnAddingtonSymonds,inhisSketchesinItaly,depictsitsgreatbeautyas
beingcolouredwith“thechangefulgreenandazureofapeacock’sbreast”.
ReminiscentofLugano,longandnarrowLakeIseodoes,however,havelessforestandmorebluein
itsmountainshadows.Attheupperend,wherethestreamoftheOgliobringsdownmeltedsnowfromthe
greatAdamellorange,thewaterinearlysummertakesonapaleopaque-bluecolour.Itsshores,although
sub-Alpine,arealmostNeapolitaninparts.LittleOrta,linedbyitssnowymountainsatthenorthandlow
hillsatthesouthenclosedinpearlymists,ismagicalandblue.
ThenorthernendofLakeGardaatTorbolé.
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Lyingapartfromtheothers,Gardaisthelargestlakeandthemostscenicallydiverse.Itstretchesfrom
theLombardyplaintothefootoftheTrentinoDolomitesinthenorth,wheremountainsrisestraightfrom
theshoreline.EveryafternooninsummerthecoolingbreezeoftheOrafunnelsdownontoLakeGarda.
ThenorthernreachesresembleadeepNorwegianfjord,enclosedbetweentoweringmountainranges.But
thoseverypeaksandpinnaclesprotecttheflourishingolivetrees,oleanders,camelliasandcitrusinthis
extraordinarilymildclimate,knowntotheRomansasLakeBenacus,the“beneficent”.
Tothesouthofthelakes,thesiltsfromriversandmoraines,beforeandaftertheIceAge,formedthe
richlyfertileLombardyplainwhichisstillthemostproductiveareainItaly.
Climbingaboveaviaferrata.
Shutterstock
Orchidsandedelweiss
Vines,olives,palmsandcitrustreesaresprinkledamonghorsechestnut,pineandconifertrees,andlittle
Alpinewildflowerspeepoutfromtheirsnowymantlesinhighpastureland,whilelakesideexoticblooms
dontheirgloryinthewarmmicroclimates.
ThehighwildernessofAltaValsesiaontheSwissborderhasnumerousspeciesofplantbelowthe
snowlineandanextraordinary57speciesabovethesnowline.Althoughmuchoftheareaisscree,iceand
boulder-coveredpasture,itisstillanurseryforrarehigh-altitudeplantsandthemostfamousofall
Alpinewildflowers–theedelweiss.Thisdelicatewhiteflowerbloomsinlatesummerandgrowsin
limestonepasturesupto3,400metres(11,000ft).
TheStelvionationalparkhasanextraordinarydiversityofplants,withover1,200speciesrecorded.
Amemberoftheprimrosefamily,thechickweedwintergreenthrivesintheconiferwoodlandand
displaysitsattractivestar-likewhiteflower.Splendidtooarethesweetlyscentedblackvanillaorchids,
purpleAlpineclematisandmembersofthegentianfamily,fromtherareyellowgentiantotheazure
trumpetvariety.
VieFerrate
Literally“roadsofiron”,vieferratemountainpathshadtheiroriginsinthe1860sbutdatemainlyfromWorldWarl,whentheywere
constructedasawayoftransportingtroopsandequipmentoverdifficultterrain.EspeciallyprevalentintheTrentino-AltoAdigearea,
somehaverustedaway,butmanyhavebeenadaptedtoaccessfreeclimbs.Verticalladders,footholdsintotherock,metalbracketsand
evenbridgesallowclimberstomoveacrosssteep,sometimesverticalcliffs.
IntheBrentaDolomites,vieferratewereconstructedduringthe1930spurelytoaccessdifficultclimbsofthedramaticandbeautiful
rockfaces.TheseclassicroutesincludethefamousViadelleBocchetteintheParcoNaturaleAdamelloBrenta.
Thevieferrateinthisareadifferwidelyinlengthandlevelofdifficulty.Climbersmustbeequippedwithasitharnessandavieferrate
kit,whichcanbeboughtorrentedfrommostclimbingshops.Thisincludestwokarabinerstiedoneachendofalanyard–orshockabsorbingrope.Ahelmetisalsoessentialtogetherwithfitness,cautionandagoodheadforheights.“Exposure”invieferrateparlance
meansproximitytoalargeverticaldrop–whicharebothfrequentandpotentiallyterrifying.TheyaregradedfromA–Gandallrequire
goodclimbingskills.
TheValGrandeareaiscloakedwithmaple,beech,chestnutandyewtrees,andtheplentifulspring
waterensuresthattheAlpineflowersflourish–includinggentian,edelweiss,mountaintulipandtherare
whitealpenrose.
TheAdamello-BrentaisoneofItaly’skeywildplaces.Soaringpeaks,razor-edgedpinnacles,
jumbledscreesandvastrockfacesoverseesplendidpaths–suchastheViadelleBocchette,themost
famousofItaly’svieferrate.Crimson-redlichencloaksthegranitebouldersinautumn,andthefirand
pinetreesareinterspersedwithbeech,birch,hazelandwildcherrytrees.Amongthecracksintherock
growsthedeep-bluebellflower,Campanularaineri,andtheprimrosePrimulaspectablisputsona
spectacularshow,coveringtherockswithitslargereddish-pinkflowers.OthervarietiesofAlpineflora
includetheedelweissandtherarelady’sorchid.
“Theterracesofthegardenarehelduptothesun,thesunfallsuponthem,theyarelikeavessel
slantedup,tocatchthesuperb,heavylight.”SowroteD.H.LawrenceonLakeGardainTwilightinItaly
(1916).AlongtheeasterncoastofLakeGardaarethehighridgesofMonteBaldo.Thesceneryis
spectacular,butperhapsevenmoreimportantistheextraordinarybotanicaldiversitywhichgavethisarea
thename“HortusItaliae”–thegardenofItaly–backinthe16thcentury.TheAlpineclimateonthe
highestpeaks,whicharebothsnow-coveredinwinterandsun-scorchedinsummer,contrasts
dramaticallywiththelowerslopes,whichareshelteredbyLakeGarda.
Anemonebaldensis.
Publicdomain
Thelakehasfrozenoveronlyonceinrecordedhistory,in1701,andthemicroclimateallowscitrus,
oliveandpalmtreestoflourish.DuringtheIceAges,thehighestridgeswereunaffectedbythevast
glacierthatcoveredtheareaandplantssurvivedandflourished.Endemicspeciesevolvedbearingthe
epithetbaldensisorbaldense,suchasthedistinctivesedgecarexbaldensis.Oneofthebest-known
flowerstobefirstdiscoveredonMonteBaldoistheMonteBaldoblue-whiteanemone,anemone
baldensis.Inspring,thegrassyflanksarecarpetedwithalpineflowersandmedicinalplantswhichattract
herbalistsworldwide.
Subtropicalexoticplantsflourishonthefrost-freelakeshores,andsomeofEurope’sfinestgardens
arehere.IsolaMadreinthemidstofLakeMaggiorehasthefamousKashmircypresstree,Europe’ssingle
largestspecimenwhichisover200yearsold.Camellias,rhododendronsandazaleasbloominprofusion,
andlemontreesareconfinednotjusttoGarda,butalsotoLugano,ComoandMaggioreinthedeliciously
warmmicroclimate.
Alpinewildlife
AftertheIceAges,manyanimalssoughtrefugeandmigratedtotheAlpineregions.Theptarmigan–or
snowgrouse–andmountainharewereoriginallyinhabitantsofCentralAsia.Manyspeciespersecuted
hereinthe19thand20thcenturies,suchasthelynx,wolfandbear,areonceagainontheincrease.
IntheAltaValsesia,thepredatorystoat,athomeinthehighmountains,matchesitscoatinwintertoits
snowyhabitat,foxesroamandmajesticgoldeneaglesreartheiryoungoninaccessiblecrags.Agile
chamoisraceupanddowntheprecipitousslopesandwhistlingmarmotssnuggleintotheirburrows.
AchamoisinGranParadisoNationalPark.
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Oftencalled“theparkofrock,iceandsnow”,theStelvioisthelargestprotectedareaontheItalian
Alpineridge,andatenthofitispermanentlycoveredinice.RemnantsoftheGreatWarsuchasbarbed
wireandgunsarestillentombedintheglacialice.Butwildasitis,chamois,andredandroedeerstill
roam,joinedbybrownbearfromtheAdamello.Thelong-hornedibexisheretoo,usuallywellabovethe
treelineoncraggymountainridgetops,migratinginwintertothewarmersouth-facingslopes.
Theareaisalsohometomorethan130speciesofbirds.Tinypygmyowlshuntbydayandnightasdo
eagleowls–thelargestoftheirspeciesinEurope.Woodpeckersarecommontoo,withfivedifferent
speciessuccessfullybreedinghere–thegreatspotted,thegrey-headed,theblack,thethree-toedandthe
wryneck(sonamedbecauseofitsdexterityintwistingitsheadsupposedlythrough360°).Abovethe
treeline,intheshadowofthegoldeneaglesandmajesticbeardedvultures,oncethoughttobeextinctin
theAlps,butnowsuccessfullyreintroduced–littlealpinechoughsandaccentorstaketheirlivesintheir
wings.
TheAdamello-Brentaparkishometotheeagleandpygmyowlsandtotheblack,three-toedandgreyheadedwoodpeckers.Inthebarrenuplandsalsolivesthemountainhare,whosecoatturnsfrombrownish
greytosnowywhiteinwinter.Chamois,deerandmarmotsarealsoresidents,alongwiththeshybrown
bearswholeavebehindtell-talesignssuchasdisturbedbees’nests.Althoughtheindigenousbrownbear
becameextinctintheBrentaarea,bearsstillexistelsewhereintheDolomites,withnumbersboostedby
theintroductionofSlovenianbears(seebox).
InthePrealpsoftheVeneto,thehighestreachesofMonteBaldoarehometorockpartridge,black
grouse,Alpinechoughsandmanyothermountainbirds,includinggoldeneagles.Onthelowerreaches,
songbirdscongregateinthewarmspringsunshine,tawnyowlsandnightjarsnestintheconiferwoods
and,duringmigration,cloudsofswiftsswoopoverLakeGarda.Brownbearsaresightedoccasionally,
butmorecommonaretheherdsofroedeertakingcoverinthethickvegetation,whileinthehigher,
exposedridgesmarmotsandchamoiscanoftenbespotted.
Thelakesandriversteemwithcoarsefish.LakeIseoisespeciallywellknownforitsperch(persico)
,whileLakeComoisrenownedforitsshad(missoltino),andtrout(trota)isespeciallygoodinlakes
OrtaandMaggiore.Eels(anguille)andchub(cafvedano)arewidelyfoundinGardaandComo.The
Alpinechar,Salvelinusalpinus,isasmallfishwhichreachedtheAlpsthousandsofyearsagowiththe
glaciation.ButlostinthemistsoftimearetheserpentsanddragonsoncethoughttohaveinhabitedLake
Orta’sIsolaSanGiulio.
Alpineadventures
Outsidetheskiseason,meadowsfullofAlpineflowersrecallavisionofHeidiheaven.Butinsummer
thosesameskiliftstransportwalkersuptowilderpasturesintheleeofsoaringpeaks.Tunnels,trenches,
embrasuresandfortswereconstructedatstrategiclocations,linkedbyironways,vieferrate,someof
whichcanstillbeclimbedtodaytoseeopenair“museums”ofrestoreddefences.
Brownbear(Ursusarctos)intheDolomites.
Photoshot
Thereareplentyofadrenalinsportsonoffer,too,suchaswhite-waterrafting,canyoningand
paragliding.Aroundthelakestherearenumerousopportunitiesforswimming,boating,water-skiingand
windsurfing,andforgolfandtennis.Mountainbikingisverypopular,especiallyaroundtheMottarone
aboveLakeMaggioreandonMonteBaldoaboveGarda.Pocket-sizedLakeOrtaalsohasitinerariessuch
asthe“Girolago”–aleisurelyscenictouraroundthelake.
ReturnoftheBrownBear
In1999,itwasrealisedthattheAlpswereindangeroflosingtheirnativebrownbearsforever.Uncontrolledhuntingandtheintrusionof
manintotheirnaturalhabitatsmeantthatbearswerethreatenedwithextinction:onlyfiveremainedinthewildandmountainous
Adamello-Brentapark,andnonewcubshadbeenbornsince1990.
ResearchersfoundthattheSlovenianbrownbearsweregeneticallyvirtuallythesameastheItalianbrownbear(Ursusarctos).In2002,
bearsbegantobereintroducedwiththeaimofcreatingapopulationof40–60bears,whichisconsideredtheminimumviablepopulation
(MVP)tosustainthespecies.
ThebearsresideinTrentino’sAdamello-BrentaNaturePark,aprotectedareasome50km(31miles)northofLakeGarda,butroamas
farastheprovincesofBolzano,Sondrio,BresciaandVerona,anareaofabout6,500sqkm(2,510sqmiles).
SofaritseemsthattheSlovenianbearshaveadaptedwelltotheirnewenvironmentandareperfectlywellintegratedwiththeirItalian
cousins.Twentybabybearswerebornbetween2002and2006fromthesixorseven“founder”Slovenianbears,andaccordingtoall
forecasts,thebearswhichwerereintroducedhaveadaptedeasilytotheirnewItalianlife.
Horseridingisalsobecomingverypopular.Inwinter,theScandinaviansportofskijoringis
celebratedinValdiFiemme–oneoffewplacesintheAlpstohavethiskindoffastandfurious
combinationofskiingandhorsemanship.Askierispulledbehindahorseatfullgallopalongasnowy
track.DuringtheSkijoringGrandPrixofPredazzo,teamsracearoundatrackinafrenzyofhoovesand
snowflurries.
INSIGHT:ONTHEPISTE
Greatsnow,greatsceneryandgreatstylemaketheItalianskisceneseriouslycool.
SkiingItalian-styleisnotjustaboutdesignerequipment,skiwearandshades,butthecombinationof
atmosphere,greatskiingandsnowboarding,fabulousfoodanddramaticscenery.Resortstendtohugthe
bordersbetweenFrance,SwitzerlandandAustria,makingitpossibletoskiintwodifferentcountriesin
oneday.Manyoftheslopesmayseembest-suitedtobeginnersandintermediates,yetthisisoftenlessto
dowithgradientandmoretodowithexcellentpiste-groomingandsnow-makingfacilities.Andinthe
Dolomites,thereisaccessto1,220km(760miles)ofpistes–oneoftheworld’slargestskiareas.
WestofLakeMaggiore,sharingtheborderwithSwitzerland,MonteRosaisEurope’ssecond-highest
mountainafterMontBlanc.Dominatedbythe“pinkmountain”,Piedmont’sMonterosaskiareaisoften
referredto–inwintersportsspeak–as“Europe’sbest-keptsecret”.Thethreemainresorts,Champoluc,
GressoneyandAlagna,arecharming,traditionalvillagessetamidgorgeousscenery.Alagnahascult
statusasanoff-pisteparadisebristlingwithcornicesandcliffs–strictlyfortheexpertsinsomeofthe
toughestterrainintheAlps.A100-personcablecarfromAlagnagivesaccesstoapistetoGressoney:an
optionforlessintrepidsouls.BothChampolucandGressoneyhavelong,cruisingintermediaterunsthat
areusuallyveryquietandblessedwithgoodsnow.
TotheeastofMonterosaisasprinklingofsmallvillages,suchastheprettyformerWalsersettlement,
Macugnaga,covering37km(23miles)ofpistesservedby12lifts.ClosesttoLakeMaggioreisMonte
Mottaroneat1,200m(4,000ft);ithasnovillage,butitsskiareaof25km(15miles)ispopularwith
weekendvisitorsduringthewinterseason.
Dolomitepeaksmakeadramaticbackdroptothepistes.
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InBresciaprovince,theAdamelloskiareacovers100km(62miles)ofpistesspanningtheVal
CamonicainLombardyandtheValdiSoleinTrentino.Purpose-builtandsnow-sure,PassoTonale
perchesabovethetreelineat1,885m(6,200ft).Itcaterswellforbeginnersandearlyintermediatesandis
popularmoreforitsgood-valueaccommodationandboisterousbarsthanforitscharm.However,anew
gondolaliftandhigh-speedchairslinkTonalewiththepretty,quieterareaofPontedilegno,withattractive
tree-linedruns.ItisnowpossibletoskiveryvariedterrainfromthePresenaglacier(3,000m/9,800ft)to
Tonale,PontedilegoandrightacrosstoTemù(1,150m/3,800ft).
Nearby,Pejo,intheheartoftheStelvionationalpark,isapurpose-builtskiresortwithacablecar.
AccesstootherareasintheValdiSole(ValleyoftheSun)suchasFolgarida-Marillevaarealso
straightforward,thankstoagondolalink.AlreadylinkedtotheseprettyresortsisthelargerMadonnadi
Campiglioskiarea.Affluent,exclusive,veryItalianandultra-chic,Madonna’sskiareacovers120km(75
miles)ofpistes.
Forthebestsnow-makingandpiste-groominginItaly,theDolomiteshaveanunequalledrecord.In
thenortheastoftheSouthTyrol,thisareaisadelightfulblendofItaliancharmandAustrianefficiency.A
vastnetworkof464state-of-the-artliftsand745immaculatelygroomed,mostlyintermediatepistesison
thedoorstep–allcoveredbythesingleDolomitiSuperskiliftpass.AttheheartoftheValGardena,
SelvaiscradledbyMediterranean-stylewarmthandthespectacularpeaksandpinnaclesofthedramatic
pink-tingedDolomitemountains.Selva,withalivelyTyroleanatmosphere,isthebestplacetostayonthe
famousSellaRondacircuit.Thisisa22km(14-mile)circulartouraroundthepicturesqueGruppoSella
mountains,passingthroughthevillagesofSelva,Colfosco,Corvara,CanazeiandsteepanddeepArabba.
IntheVeneto,über-chicCortinad’Ampezzoisknownasthe“QueenoftheDolomites”.Here,itis
hardnottobeseducedbythemoststunninglybeautifulmountainsceneryinItaly.Cortinahasskiingforall
abilities,andtherunstendtobequietduringtheweekandatthesacrosanctlunchtime–withachoiceof
morethan50mountainrestaurants.Asthesunsinksinafieryglowduringtheenrosadiraandallthe
Dolomitipeaksturnpink,theeveningpasseggiatagetsunderway,wheneveryoneparadesupanddown
intheCorsoItalia.ThisisItalianskiingandaprès-skiatitsmoststylish.
CELEBRITYPLAYGROUND
LongbeforetheCôted’Azurcameintovogue,theItalianLakeswerethehauntofthe
EuropeaneliteandastagingpostontheGrandTour–theappeallingerson,evenif
Byron,BelliniandGoethehavegivenwaytoGeorgeClooneyandthecelebrityset.
TheItalianLakes,nestlinginthesouthernfoothillsoftheAlps,havelongcastaspelloverjadedvisitors.
Virgil,PlinyandCatulluslavishedpraiseontheirhomeland,whosevillasandgardensrepresented
Romanrestandrecreationinanerawhichcelebratedsimilarpleasurestoourown.HenryJamesrightly
praisedthelakesformakingurbanitesfeel“outoftherushandcrushofthemodernworld”.
Thelakeswereadvertisedinmanyelegantearly20th-centuryposters.
Corbis
ThefirsttraintogothroughtheSimplonTunnel,1905.
Photoshot
TheuptightVictoriansloosenedafewbuttonsonthelakes:theMurrayguidebooktothearea,
publishedin1842,sweptenrapturedvisitorsaroundthesights,fromtheBorromeanIslandsonLake
MaggioretoVillaCarlottaandVillad’EsteonLakeComo,creatingaGrandTourofthelakesthat
remainspopulartoday,admittedlylackingthegrumpyinnkeepersandunreliableferrymenofyore.The
lakesonlyfelloutoffashioninthe1950swhenbeachholidaysbecameabadgeofsophistication.But
nowthelakesareagainacelebritymagnet,theircharmssufficienttoluremoviestarsandmediamoguls
toseekpermanentmooringsonthewaterfront.
CrossingtheSimplonPass
TheSimplonaffordedabreathtakingdescentintotheLombardylakesbut,formanyGrandTourists,crossingthepasstothelakeswasa
journeyfrompurgatorytoparadise.TheFrenchwriterThéophileGautier,whomadethecrossingin1850,reported:“Travellingfromthe
coldairofthehighAlpsintothewarmthofItaly,carriageslurchedandlumberedalongvertiginousroutescarryingtravellersclutching
theirBaedeker,BradshaworMurrayguidebooks,whichhastenedtoreassurethemthattheworldaheadwasfreeofthe‘perilsof
precipicesandrobbers’presentlysurroundingthem.”
TheGrandTour
Thelakesfirstbecamefashionablewinteringgroundsintheearly19thcenturythankstotheirmild
climate,theopeningoftheSimplonPassandthegrowthofferryservices.
TheSimplonwasbarelypassablein1800,whenNapoleonblastedatrailblazingroutethroughthe
ravinesandchasmstoItaly.WhileWordsworthhadbeenconsignedtoperilousmule-tracksin1790,
Napoleon’sroutemadethelakesamigrationpathfortheGrandTourists,likeswallowsheadingsouth.
ByronandShelleyflewthisway,delightedtoleavethehighwaymenbehind.Englishcarriages,reported
Byron,wereregularly“stoppedandhandsomelypilferedofvariouschattels”.
TheVillad’EstebecameQueenCaroline’snewandhappierplayground.
Leonardo
AmongtheearlytravellerscameCarolineofBrunswick,laterQueenCaroline,wifeofGeorgeIV.As
theestrangedwifeofthePrinceRegent,shesoughtafreshstartonLakeComo,inthepalatialVilla
d’Este,where,in1814,sheinstalledherItalianlover,aNapoleonicgeneral,andscandalisedpolite
societybeforedyinginEngland.
Artistsinresidence
Aclutchofwritersandartistssoonfollowed,fromayouthfulHenryJames,whowalkedpartoftheway
in1869,toTurner,whopaintedandsketchedhiswaythroughItaly.Turner,themasterofatmospheric
effects,lappedupthelakes,whichinspiredhisdreamlikelandscapes,suchasSunSettingoveraLake
(1840).ThecriticJohnRuskinvisitedthelakesin1844,thesameyearCharlesDickenssweptin,
accompaniedbyhiswife,fivechildren,theirservantsandeventhefamilyhound.
ThecomposerFranzLisztwrotehisDanteSonataontheshoresofLakeComo,
supposedlyinspiredbyastatueofDanteandBeatriceinVillaMelzi,oneofthefinest
villasonthelake.
Asforcontinentalwriters,FrenchnovelistssuchasStendhaltendedtopreferLakeComo,although
BalzaclovedLakeOrta,whosesoft,dreamylandscapewaslikenedto“agreypearlinagreencasket”.
FortheAustrians,LakeGardawasthefashionablechoice.ConsideredaMediterraneanhothouse,the
northernpartofthelakeflourishedunderAustrianrule,between1815and1918,whenRivabecamea
stylishresort,attractingsuchintellectualheavyweightsasKafka,NietzscheandThomasMann.The
aristocracyandbourgeoisieofMitteleuropaflockedtothesanatoriaaroundLakeGarda,whileLake
Lavarone,justnorth,waswhereSigmundFreudsoughtinspirationeverysummer,usinghistherapeutic
lakesidestrollsforpsycho-analyticalmusing.
OperaticLakeComo
Themusicallinksonthelakesresemblethe“fivedegreesofseparation”game.OnLakeComo,Bellini
composedNormaandLaSonnambula,RossiniTancredi,andVerdiActIIofLaTraviata.The
composerslookednofurtherthantheirneighbours:GiudittaPasta,theMariaCallasofherday,andher
husband,thetenorGiuseppePasta.
VillaMelzi,oneofComo’sfinestwatersidevillas,captivatedsingersandcomposers,includingFranz
Liszt,forcedintoItalianexileafteratroubledloveaffair.WhatfirstinspiredhimwastheMoorish
coffeehousestandingsentineltothelake,aboldfollywithloftyvistasedgedbybanksofcamellias.
Fittingly,itwasonLakeComo,onChristmasDay1837,thatLiszt’sdaughterCosimawasborn,thefuture
wifeofRichardWagner,towhomIsolaBellaconceivablyconjuredupKundry’senchantedgardeninhis
operaParsifal.AlsoonIsolaBella,“LaGrissina”sangforNapoleon,whoconductedatempestuous
affairwiththecelebrateddiva.Inthe19thcentury,theatmosphereonLakeComowassooperaticthat
eventheunlyricalHenryJamesfoundhimself“fairlywallowinginalibretto”.
TheromanticgardensoftheVillaCortinePalace,Sirmione.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Granddukesanddivas
Ostensiblylessoperatic,LakeGarda’snorthernresortsbecamewinterwateringholesforthemusical
Austriangranddukesinthe1870s,includingEmperorFranzJosephandhiscousinAlbert.Theresortsof
RivaandArcorevelledinBelleEpoqueballs,interspersedwithhealthcuresandcarriageridestoexotic
villagardensandolivegroves.IttooktheoutbreakofWorldWarItoputanendtothelake’saristocratic
heyday.
LakeGarda’smusicalrevivalwaslefttoMariaCallas,“LaDivina”,wholivedinSirmioneatthe
heightofherpowersinthe1950s.Thediva,marriedtoanItalianbutbesottedwithAristotleOnassis,
becameascelebratedforheroperaticaffairsasforherlyricalperfection.Asinthefinestoperaticscores,
herloveaffairshadtragicendings,apoignancyatonewiththespiritofSirmione.VillaCortine,opposite
MariaCallas’svilla,becameabattlefieldhospital,NaziHighCommandandAlliedheadquartersbefore
becomingahotelwherePrincessDiana’smother,FrancesShandKydd,retreatedafterthedeathofher
daughter,seekingthesolaceshefailedtofindonhersmallScottishisland.
ComoandtheA-list
DespiteGarda’soperaticgrandeur,LakeComo,inmood,ifnotinreality,isthelakemostsweptupinthe
daysofgranddukesanddowagerempresses,offindesiècleballsbeforethechillwindsofdemocracy
sweptawaythedoomed,cobweb-encrustedcarapace.Asthemostglamorouslake,ithasbeenaretreat
forwearyurbanitesforseveralthousandyears.PlinytheYounger,poet,oratorandsenator,sangthe
praisesofhistwowatersidevillas,retreatsfromthecaresoftheworld.NamedComedyandTragedy,the
porticoedvillassavedhimfromthestressoflifeinancientRome.IfVillaComediaistraditionallysited
inLenno,wheretheyoungpoetfishedfromhisbedroomwindow,VillaTragediastraddledaridgein
BellagioandboastedsuperlativeviewsoftheAlps.Here,asinmostofthelakes,thesightsare
subordinatetothemood.Bellagioisasummationofalltheclichés,yetsomehowrisesaboveit.
TheLiteraryLakes
Thesightofsluggishsteamersandsnow-cladpeaksstirssomethingdeepinmostvisitors,but
especiallyinthesoulsofpoets.
HenryJames’sheartliftedasheleftSwitzerlandfortheItalianLakes:“OnintoItalywewent–arapturousprogressthroughawild
luxurianceofcornandolivesandfigsandmulberriesandchestnutsandfrescoedvillagesandclamorousbeggarsandallthegoodold
Italianismsoftradition.”
ItislittlecoincidencethattwoofthemostromanticRomanpoets,VirgilandCatullus,camefromthelakes,andwereinspiredbythe
seductivesetting.Virgillavishedpraiseonthelakes,whileCatulluschoseSirmioneastheplacefromwhichtowritelovesickverseto
Lesbia,hisficklelover.
“ThislakeexceedsanythingIeverbeheldinbeauty,”declaredShelleyofLakeComo.Shelley,exploringthelakein1818,wasstirredby
VillaPliniana,aRenaissancepalacelinkedtoasitebelovedbyPliny.LiketheRomanpoet,Shelleywaxedlyricaloverthevastwaterfall,
“brokenbythewoodyrocksintoathousandchannelstothelake”,but,withtypicalBritishacquisitiveness,wantedtorentthecrumbling
pile.NovelistEdithWharton,visitingin1903,wasintoxicatedbytheRomanticpoets’visionsofbroodinglakes,especiallyShelley’s“glens
filledwiththeflashinglightofthewaterfalls”.
Romanticinspiration
TheGermanpoetGoethewasdrawntoLakeGardabyitsclassicalresonance,evenifitwasthelemonsratherthantheliteraturewhich
wonhisheart:“WhatIenjoymostofallisthefruit,”hewroteinhisjournalin1786.GoethehadlessfondnessforMalcesine,wherethe
Austrianpolice,spottingthepoetsketchingthecastle,arrestedhimonsuspicionofbeingaspy.
Sincethe18thcentury,LakeGarda’ssummervillashaveluredsuchluminariesasByronandD.H.Lawrence,wholamentedawayof
lifethatwaspassing,withtheshiftfrompluckinglemonstopluckingtourists.LawrenceadoredLimone,overlooking“alakeasbeautiful
asthebeginningofcreation”.In1912,havingleftEnglandforthefirsttimeinhislife,hetravelledtonorthernItalyandspentalmostone
yearatvariouspicturesquelocalitiesontheshoresofLakeGarda.D.H.LawrenceandItalypublishedin1916ishisnostalgiccollection
oftravelessaysonhisItalianjourney,withoneofitsparts“TwilightinItaly”solelydevotedtoLakeGarda.Thisisaveryspecifictravel
bookinwhichtheauthorofWomeninLovepondersnotonlylandscapesandnature,butalso–onamorephilosophicalplane–mankind,
humanfateandreligion.
IbsenandVladimirNabokovconcurred,eveniftheirpreferencewasforgranderGardoneRiviera,whichwasalsoWinstonChurchill’s
favouredresort,wherehecombinedpaintingwatercolourswithjournal-writing.
“Onecan’tdescribethebeautyoftheItalianlakes,norwouldonetryifonecould,”wroteHenryJames,oncatchingsightofLake
Maggiore.Suchoutpouringsofpurpleprose,particularlyfromwritersfleeingnorthernclimes,arepartofthelakes’legacy,butlook
elsewhereforgreatliterature.
TheRomanticEnglishpoetShelley.
Publicdomain
Como’sicingonthecakecomesintheformofVillaCarlottaanditsgorgeouslysaccharinegardens.
Thiscentralstretchofthelake,embracingBellagio,TremezzoandVarenna,isthemostseductive.Near
Varenna,thebroodingwoodsandwildlimestonepeaksinspiredLeonardodaVincitousetheshadowy
landscapeasthesettingforhisVirginoftheRocks.Stendhal,basedinMilan,partlysethismasterpiece
TheCharterhouseofParmaontheseshores,whichofferedaclear-sightedlookatloveandthepursuitof
happiness.
Longfellowimmortalisedtheresortinversein1872:“Thehillssweepupwardfromthe
shore,withVillasscatteredonebyoneupontheirwoodedspurs,andlowerBellagio
blazinginthesun.”
Naturally,thelocalsclaimJohnKennedyromancedMarilynMonroeonLakeComo.Butevenin
HenryJames’sday,ithadareputationforseduction:“Itiscommonlythespottowhichinflamedyoung
gentlemeninvitethewivesofothergentlementoflywiththemandignoretherestrictionsofpublic
opinion.”Everwise,Jameswasthefirsttosanctionsnatchinghappinesswhereyoumay:“LakeComois
theplacetoenjoyàdeux–it’sashametobehereingrossmelancholysolitude.”
DetailfromLeonardodaVinci’sVirginoftheRocks,inspiredbythelandscapenearVarenna.
Photoshot
Princesandpotentates
Bycontrast,LakeMaggiorehaslongbeenameccaforpotentates,politiciansandplantsmen.Still
fabulouslywealthy,thepowerfulBorromeandynastyhaveproducedpatronsoflearning,cardinals,popes
andevenasaint,andhavehadtheirpowerbaseontheBorromeanIslandssincemedievaltimes.Their
IsolaBellawasthepicturesquesettingforthedoomed1935StresaConferenceatwhichItaly,Britainand
FrancefailedtoagreeastrategyinthefaceofHitler’srearmament.Stresaitselfisstillconsideredthe
noblepartofthelake,andcommandsaplaceintheheartsofformerheadsofstateofacertainvintage,
fromWinstonChurchilltoMargaretThatcherandHelmutKohl.
LaurenceOlivierandVivienLeighonholidayinLakeGardain1955.
Corbis
Snobberycertainlyplaysapart,astheresidentsaredelightedtohavehostedroyalty.CarloPisoni,
archivistfortheprincelyBorromeanclan,detectsakeensenseofhistoryamonglake-dwellers:“Ifyou
mentionQueenVictoriatopeopleinBaveno,they’lltalkaboutherasthoughshewashereyesterday.”
Althoughwellpastitsprime,thisdowagerresortoncefoundfavourwiththecrownedheadsofEurope.In
1879,QueenVictoriavisitedBaveno,stayingintheturn-of-the-centuryVillaClara,whichEdwardHutton
dismissedas“areplicaoftheWimbledonorPutneyresidenceofaretiredtradesman”.Yetonthe
neighbouringshore,inVillaTaranto,aScottishsoldier,CaptainNeilMcEachern,turnedhisbackon
socialclimbingtodevotehislifetoplantinghisexoticgardens.
Thinkingofthislake,HenryJamesnoted:“ThemoststrikingfeatureofItaliansceneryseemstobethis
sameoddminglingoftawdrinessandsplendour–agenerousprofuseluxurianceofnatureandthe
ludicrousgingerbreadaccessoriesofhumancontrivance.”Inhisinimitableway,Jamesmaybereferring
totheornatenessandsumptuousnesswhichstruckmanyaBritishandAmericanvisitor.
Thesimple(celebrity)life
Inthepast,romanticlakesideviewsandlushMediterraneanvegetationdrewvisitorsofacertain
sensibility.Theirdreamswerefulfilledbytheprofusionofvillasandgardenssetamidazaleas,giant
palms,camelliasandrhododendrons.Whetherrich,rakishorrebellious,theirconcernswerescenery,
climate,areleasefromsocialresponsibilityandasenseofsurrender.
HistorianJohnPembledescribesthetypicalVictorianandEdwardianexilesas“eccentricswith
oversizepersonalities,whosevoices,gesturesandpassionsrequiredhighceilings,stronglightand
stupendousviews”.Littlehaschanged,exceptthattheceilingshavegothigherandthestaffquarters
bigger.Thecuriouspointaboutcontemporarystarsisthattheirmotivationsremainunchanged:thelakes
representarealmofenchantmentandrepose,wheretheycanpotterinprivacy.Today’smoviestarseeks
simplicityand,likePliny,wantstofeelhecanfishfromhisbedroomwindoworenjoywhatLisztcalled
“themelancholymurmuringofthewaveslappingagainsttheboat”.
GeorgeClooneyboardsayachtonLakeComo.
Corbis
Villasfortherichandfamous
Forallitscultivatedsimplicity,LakeComocouldclaimtobeEurope’stightestpowernexus:Rupert
MurdochownsawatersideestateinBlevioand,ironically,hasSilvioBerlusconi,hisrivalmedia
magnate,inthevillaopposite.FellowtycoonRichardBransonhasplumpedforapropertyinnearby
Lenno,notfarfromseveralsecretiveRussianbillionairesandMichaelO’Leary,theIrishownerof
Ryanair.FootballershavenowcaughttheLakefever:LionelMessihasboughtahouseonComoandboth
CristianoRonaldoandDavidBeckhamarerumouredtobelookingfortheirownhousesinthearea,too.
Paradoxically,thecommonquestforprivacycoulddegenerateintoadeal-makingfrenzyofsnappypower
brunchesonthepowerboat.
ManyMilan-basedItalianfashiondesignersalsoownvillasinthelakes,butsincefilmstarGeorge
ClooneyboughtVillaOleandra,LakeComohasbeenbathedinHollywoodglamourandithasfeaturedin
suchfilmsasOcean’sTwelveandCasinoRoyale.VillaOleandraiswhereClooneyentertainsfriends,
fromBradPitttoMattDamonandJuliaRoberts,whennotplayingtenniswiththelocalsorroaringround
thehillsonhisHarleymotorbike.Thestar’spopularitywasbrieflydentedafterhispurchaseofthe
neighbouringvillasandbeachprovokedalocalbacklash,resolvedbyClooneysmoothlypresenting
Comowithanewpublicbeach.
HollywoodstarGeorgeClooneylovesthelaid-backlifestyleofhisLakeComohome:
“Italianshavetaughtmehowtocelebratelife,”heoncesaid.
Thewatersarecalmoncemore,asComostrivestoprovidecamouflageforpublicity-shyresidents.
HollywoodstarsarealsoregularguestsatDonatellaVersace’svillaretreatinMoltrasio,whereGianni
Versaceisburied,andwhereextravagantfashionshootsarestaged.The18th-centurymansionisadreamy
affair,withalilypondanddancingfireflies.Thisiswherecelebritiescomeforpeaceandquiet,keener
ongossipandgrilledlakefishthanonfashionablecolumninches.ItishardlysurprisingthatClooney
preferssleepyLakeComotothehipHollywoodHills.
INSIGHT:THEGRANDHOTELS
SomeofEurope’sgrandesthotelslinethelakes,alegacyoftheirimportanceonthe
GrandTour.
ThewesternshoreofGardawasthefirsttoembracemoderntourismwhensplendidlakesidevillaswere
builtinthe18thcentury.Longbefore,inRomantimes,loversandwriterswereseducedbyitscharms,
andCatulluswrotemanyofhisexplicitamorouspoemsfromhisvillaatSirmione,whichhereferredto
ashisplaceofcontentedhomecoming.D.H.LawrencedescribedGargnanoas“oneofthemostbeautiful
placesonearth”,andevenFriedrichNietzschetemporarilyforgotnihilisminfavourofthelake’sbeauty.
Gargnano’sGrandHotelVillaFeltrinelliwasonceahideoutfortheinfamousMussoliniandhis
wife,Rachele.Althoughmoreinterestedinherpethensthanthevillaandherdomineeringhusband,she
couldnothavefailedtobeentrancedbythegloriousviews.Nowtransformedintooneoftheworld’sbest
hotels,thisluxurybijouresidencehassweepingterraces,parquetfloors,gilt-framedmirrors,sumptuous
antiquesandpalatialbathrooms.
GrandHoteldesIlesBorromées,LakeMaggiore.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Nearby,GardoneRivierawasoncethemagnetforeveryone,includingheadsofstateandEuropean
royalty,andislinedwithhugeBelleEpoquehotels,includingthepink-and-whiteVillaFiordaliso–the
convenientlove-nestforMussoliniandhismistress,Clara.Nowalsoanelegantboutiquehotel,(although
notquiteinthesamepeckingorderastheFeltrinelli),fouroftheroomsarenamedafterflowers,thefifth
afterClara.
LakeMaggiorewasontheGrandTourmapbythelate18thcentury,andastheformerfishingvillages
mushroomedintoelitetownsgracedwithBelleEpoquehotelsandcasinosrivallingthoseofVenice’s
LidoandMonteCarlo,itbecameafavouredretreatforEurope’snobilityandglitterati.TheGrandHotel
desIlesBorromées,overlookingthejewel-likeBorromeanIslands,hasbeenhometowell-heeled
guestssince1861.ErnestHemingwaywasaregularvisitorwholovedthehotelsomuchthathefeatured
itinhisbookAFarewelltoArms.LikeHemingway,hiseponymoussuiteisking-sizeineveryway,with
vastmarblebathrooms.Recentlavishrenovationshaverestoredthehoteltoitsgloryasthegrandedame
oflakehotels.
NearLakeIseo,L’AlberetaissetintheFranciacortawine-growingarea.Theformercountryseatof
anoblefamily,thisancienthuntinglodgehasbeenimaginativelyrestoredintoanelegantlyfurnished
hotel-restaurant.
OnLakeOrta,theVillaCrespiisanopulentMoorishfantasy,alsoboastingasuperbtwo-star
Michelinrestaurant.
InLugano,Switzerland,thedecorativelyArtNouveauHotelSplendideRoyaloverlooksthe
shorelineofoneofthemostenchantingPrealplakes,itsroomsasumptuousmixofgildedtasselsand
silkenstripes.Bothroomsandviewsmorethanliveuptothehotel’sambitiousname.
Dramatic,deepandromantic,Comocontinuestobewitcheveryone.OftennamedasItaly’smost
beautifultown,BellagioisgracedbythelavishlyornateGrandHotelVillaSerbelloni,setinhuge
lakesidegrounds.Thestar-studdedguestbookhassignaturesfromroyaltytoagalaxyofactorsandheads
ofstateincludingWinstonChurchill,whopaintedfromhissuiteatthetopofthemarblestaircase.Murano
crystal,marblehalls,gloriousvistasandanightlystringquartetareallpartoftheelegantandspacious
opulence.
Enjoyingequallymagnificentlakeviews,theluxuriousGrandHotelTremezzoPalacestandsnextto
thebotanicalgardensofthe18th-centuryVillaCarlotta.Builtin1910andrecentlyrenovated,itslavish
LibertycharmiscomplementedbytheglamorousTSpaandtherenovatedTerrazzarestaurant.Outside,a
floatingpoolonthelakeprovidestheultimatesettingforaswimamidgloriousviews.
Onanylistoftheworld’sgrandhotels,Como’sVillad’Estealwaysranksnearthetop.Aformer
16th-centuryprincelyresidenceandoncetheriotousretreatofPrincessCaroline,theestrangedwifeof
Britain’sPrinceRegent,itwastransformedintoagrandhotelin1873.Ithascontinuedtobetheopulent
retreatofcountlessdignitaries,celebritiesandroyaltyfromallovertheworld.Latter-dayfashionistas
fromBrangelinatoSharonStonehavejoinedmusiciansfromVerditoMickJaggeramidtheprecious
marblewallsofthispleasurepalace.ThisisatrueRenaissancevilla,reflectingamagnificentbygoneera
–yetwiththemostup-to-dateoffacilities.Setinitsown10-hectare(26-acre)lakesidepark,itisstillthe
mostfabled,luxuriousandexpensivehotelinthewholelakesregion.
ATASTEOFTHELAKES
Lookinyoursupermarkettrolley,andwhetherit’srisottoricefromVerona,polentafrom
Bergamo,GorgonzolafromMilan,orevenabottleofSanPellegrinowater–chancesare
somethingwillhavecomefromtheItalianLakes.
WiththePoValleytothesouthandtheAlpstothenorth,thelocationoftheItalianLakesmeansthatthere
isalmostnothingthatisn’tproducedinthisgloriousregion,anditsspecialitiesarealiveandwell.Fertile
rivervalleysareidealforfruit-growing,andmellowclimatesproduceidealconditionsforvineyardsand
olive-growing.LombardyisoneoftherichestagriculturalregionsinItaly.Thearborioricepaddiesinthe
southernregionsandthecornfieldsofBergamonotonlyprovidethekeyingredientsforthelocalstaples–
risottoandpolenta–butalsohelptofeedthethousandsofcowsandpigswhichhelptocreatethe
wonderfulcheeses,hamsandsausageswithwhichtheyareflavoured.
Trentinospeckforsale,Saturdaymarket,Salò.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
“ThecookingofItalyisreallythecookingofitsregions,regionsthatuntil1861were
separate,independentandusuallyhostilestates”–MarcellaHazan.
AllaMilanese
Forsuchagrandcity,Milanhassomeverysimplespecialities–minestroneallaMilanese,ahugefullmealsoupofvegetables,riceandbacon,andossobuco,braisedvealshanksslow-cookedinawhite
wineandvegetablestew,traditionallyservedwithrisottoallaMilanese,withsaffronandham.Itissaid
thattherecipewasinventedbyanapprenticeglazierworkingontheDuomointhe16thcentury.Thelad
wassofondoftheexpensiveyellowsaffronthatheputahandfulintoeverybatchofstainedglasshe
mixed.Hiscolleaguesjokedthathewouldevenputitintohisfood.Athiswedding,hedidjustthat–and
sothegoldenrisottowasborn.
Ossobuco.
iStock
ThecotolettaallaMilanese,asimple,breadedvealescalope,isbettertoknowntomostofthe
worldastheViennaSchnitzel,butwasfirstmentionedinaLombardcookbookin1134.Itwasdiscovered
herebyAustrianFieldMarshalRadetskyinthe19thcenturyandtakenbacktotheimperialcourt,whereit
wasrenamed.
Milan’sothergreatexportispanettone,somewherebetweenabreadandacake,flavouredwith
driedfruitandcandiedcitruspeel.ItisusuallyservedovertheChristmasseasonwithasweetwineor
cremadimascarpone,madefrommascarponecheese(originallyaspecialityoftheregion),eggsanda
sweetliqueursuchasDisaronnoAmaretto,thealmondliqueurwhichcomesfromSaronno,afew
kilometresoutsideMilan.Legendhasitthatitwasinventedin1525byabeautifullocalinnkeeperwho
fellinlovewiththegreatartistBernardinoLuiniwhileposingforhimasthemodelfortheMadonnain
hisfrescooftheAdorationoftheMagiintheBasilicaofSantaMariadelleGrazie,Saronno.Sheisstill
onviewinthechurch,andherconcoctionisnowtheworld’sbest-sellingItalianliqueur–successall
round.
FishdryingonLakeComo.
GettyImages
Risottoaifunghi(mushroomrisotto).
GettyImages
ThevalleysofVarese
Uptheroad,inVareseprovince,Cantello,neartheSwissborder,isrenownedforitswhiteasparagus
witharosytip.LavenoMombelloonLakeMaggiorespecialisesinhoney,producingdelicatelyscented
millefiorihoney,fromthepollenofmanyflowers,acaciahoney,perfectforeatingwithsheep’scheeses
andfreshfruit,andstronglyperfumed,darkchestnuthoney,idealforeatingwithgoats’cheeseorforuse
incooking.
InthemountainsoftheValVeddascaarea,theyproduce“violins”–hamsmadefromthethighsof
semi-wildgoatsorsheep,saltedandflavouredwithgarlic,redwineandjuniperandhungforuptosix
months,whichendupshapedroughlylikeaviolin,withtheknifeheldlikeabowforslicing.
FreshwaterFish
Allofthelakesprovideanexcellentsourceoffreshwaterfish,particularlyshad(agonia),oftensaltedanddriedascuradura,andthen
soakedinvinegarasmissoltini;perch(persico);whitebait(lavarelli);eel(anguilla),traditionallyservedwithdriedmushroomsand
anchovyfillets;pike(luccio);chub(cavedano),frequentlyusedforpâtés;tench(tinca),oftenoven-baked(alforno);andtrout
(carpione).
Fishalsocomesgrilled,friedandstewed,insouporrisotto,orwithpolentaorpasta.Thecoastisjustoveranhour’sdriveaway,sothere
isalsoplentyofexcellentseafoodnearby.
Possiblythebest-knownlocaldelicacyisaroughlyhewnlittlepastryknownasbruttiebuoni(ugly
andgood),madeofeggwhites,almonds,hazelnuts,sugarandvanilla,createdin1878byaconfectioner
inGavirateonLakeVarese.ThesebecamesoessentialthatluminariesfromQueenElenatoGiuseppe
Verdiwouldmakeadetourtobuythem.
Myriadicecreamflavoursatagelateria.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
TheVenetianinfluence
Acrossthecentreoftheregion,thehistoricinfluenceofVeniceisstrong,andappetitesarehearty.
BergamoandBresciaspecialiseinthesortoffoodthatfillsyouup:casconcelli(ravioliwithbaconand
meltedbutter)andfoiade(pastawithporcinimushrooms).Aboveall,thisiswhereyoueatpolenta–
greatbucketsofit,servedwitheverything,includingcotechini(spicedsausage).Intheultra-richpolenta
taragna,itismixedwithbutterandcheese;inpolentaeuccelletti,itisservedwithkebabsofsmall
birds(possiblylarksandthrushes)threadedontoaskewer,headandall,withsage,porkandpancetta.
Polentaisalsoservedwiththelessalarminguccelliscappati(porkwrappedinsageleaves)–check
whichyouareordering–andevenwithhorse(cavallo)ordonkey(asino).Bothappearonthemenu
increasinglyfrequentlyasyouworkyourwayeasttowardstheVeneto,sowatchoutifyouaresqueamish.
Ifthathasn’tfilledyouup,followitwithpolentaosei–sweetspongecakes,coatedwithsugarand
polentaandtoppedwithchocolatebirds.Afterallthat,youmayneedsomethingtohelptheliver,suchas
themedicinalwatersofSanPellegrino(formoreinformation,clickhere),justuptheroadfrom
Bergamo,whichnowalsofindtheirwayontorestauranttablesaroundtheworld.
AroundLakeGarda
Headingeast,moreandmoreofthelandisgivenovertovineyards–withthegreatwinesofthe
Franciacorta(formoreinformation,clickhere),Garda(formoreinformation,clickhere),Bardolino,
ValpolicellaandSoave(formoreinformation,clickhere)leadingintothelighterwinesofTrentino.But
thelandaroundLakeGardaisideallysuitedtoolives.Gardaoilisgreeny-goldanddelicatelyscented,
thatofValpolicelladarkerwithaslightlylemonyaftertaste.BothmeritDOPstatusandaretakenseriously
enoughthatyoucandooliveoiltastings.
Foodistakensoseriouslythateventheradicchio(red-leafchicory)getsitsownDOP,whilethetopqualityVialoneNanorice,grownontheplainsaroundVerona,hasadedicatedroute(
www.stradadelriso.it)andafair.The20-dayFieradelRisoatIsoladellaScala(www.isolafiere.it)
beganlifeasavillagefestivalin1967.Today,itattractsaround500,000people,andaround350,000
risottosarecookedalongwithagreatdealofotherfood,wineandmerrymaking.
AselectionoflocalcheesesatSalò’sSaturdaymarket.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Veronaitselfhasmorethanitsfairshareofgourmetrestaurants,butlookforitstraditionaldishesand
theyarenotforthefaint-hearted–orthevegetarian.Thecity’sflagshipsausage,soppressa,ismadefrom
roughlymincedporkagedforuptoayearwithspices,garlicandredwine.Anothertraditionaldish,
bollitomisto(mixedboiledmeats),isservedwithpearàsauce,madefrombonemarrow,beefstock,
Parmesan,breadcrumbsandblackpepper.Accordingtolegend,amedievaltyrantkilledhisfather-in-law
andforcedhiswife,DonaLombarda,todrinkfromherfather’sskull.Shewastotallyunabletoeatuntil
thecourtcheftemptedherbacktohealthwiththisdelicioussauce.Oncefullybacktostrength,shehadher
husbandassassinated.Themeatcomeswithplentyofstodge–gnocchi(potatodumplings),servedtothe
wholecityduringcarnival(formoreinformation,clickhere),bigoli(aheftypasta,oftenservedwith
anchoviesorduck)andpastaefagioli(pastaandbeans).
TheAustrianlegacy
Tothenorth,inTrentino,thefoodchangesyetagain,themountainssupplyinggame,frompartridgeand
pheasanttowildboarandvenison,whiletheregion’slongAustro-Hungarianheritagehasleftitsmarkon
thekitchenwithdishessuchascanederli,largedumplingsmadewithbread,stuffedwithliveroreven
prunes,andservedwithbrood(broth)orgoulasch(arich,meat-basedsauce);andwurstl,sausages
similartofrankfurters.
FoundedinPiedmontin1986,Italy’sSlowFoodMovementnowhasover100,000
membersin150countries.Itsaimis“torediscovertheflavoursofregionalcookingand
banishthedegradingeffectsoffastfood”.
Smokedmeatsarecommon,servedwithpickles,sauerkrautandbeansalads.Thelocalspeck,unlike
theslicesoffatcommonfurthersouth,issmallsquarepiecesofpork,curedwithgarlic,bay,juniper,
pepperandherbs,thenlightlysmoked.Itiseatenforbreakfast,asalunchtimeantipastoorjustasasnack.
Stincodoesn’treallyliveuptoitsname–thisissimplyashankofmeat.Forsomereason,gnocchiwith
spinach,servedwithsageandbutter,areknownlocallyasstrangolapreti(“strangledpriests”).Thereare
wonderfulforestmushrooms,whilethewarmerareasofLakeGardaareperfectfruit-growingterritory,
providingapples,figsandeventhefamouslemonsthatgaveLimonesulGardaitsname.
WithaGermanicheritage,Trentinoreallywinsoutwhenitcomestodesserts.Italianicecreammay
bethebestintheworld,buthereyouhaveallthebenefitofthegelateriealongsideAustrianstrudels
(spicyapplepie)andsachertorte(chocolatecake),andhome-growndelicaciessuchasfregolotta(a
lightcrispycakemadefromflour,sugarandalmonds).
Grappa,theTrentinohooch.
Alamy
Localcheeses
Therichgreengrassofthewholelakesregionmakesforperfectdairycountryandahugevarietyoflocal
cheeses.Althoughincrediblyfamous,BelPaese,meaning“beautifulcountry”,isarelativenewcomer,
createdbyEgidioGalbaniin1906.HewantedtogiveItalyalightsoftcheesesimilartothosehehad
tastedinFrance,andnameditafterabookbyAbbotAntonioStoppani,publishedin1875andpopular
amongstthenationalistmiddleclasses.MadeinMelzo,nearMilan,itsmildflavourhasassuredits
popularityinnurseriesacrosstheworld.
Somethingwithalittlemorebiteandageisthelocalrichandcreamybluecheese,Gorgonzola,made
fromwholecows’milk,thathasbeenproducedintheregionsinceatleastthe9thcentury.Nownamed
aftertheareainwhichitisproduced,itwasoriginallyknownasstracchinoafterthewordfor“tired”,as
itwasmadeafterthelongjourneybackfromthesummerpasturesinthehighAlps.
NorthofBergamo,ValTaleggiohasalsobeenproducingacheeseforabout1,000yearsthathasnow
burstoutintothefactoriesandsupermarkets.Taleggioisasoftcows’cheesethatstrangelysmellsmuch
strongerthanittastes.Thereareseveralstrengths–allofthemutterlydelicious.
ProbablythemostfamouscheesetocomeoutoftheBresciaregionisBagòss,adeep-yellow,hard
cows’cheesethatisrubbedwithlinseedoilanddevelopssomeholesandaslightlygrainytexture.Itcan
beeatenrawbutismainlyusedforcooking,asitsratherstrong,ratherharshflavourmellowsasitmelts
andisperfectforthepot.
AcrossintheVeneto,GranaPadanoservesmuchthesamepurposeandisusedlocallyinsteadof
Parmesanwhichitcloselyresembles,althoughalittlesweeter.Madeofunpasteurisedcows’milkand
formedinto36kg(80lb)wheels,itisagedforabout20monthsbeforeeating.
Addtotheselesswell-knownbutequallydeliciouscheesessuchasformaideMutandBranzifrom
theBrembanaValleyofBergamo,MonteVeronesefromtheVeronaregion,whichcomesinthreestrengths
–allmouthwatering–andthesoftgoats’cheese,formaggelladelLuinese,fromLuinoontheshoresof
LakeMaggiore,andyouhaveacheeseboardthatisunsurpassed.
Grappa
TheregionsoftheVenetoandTrentinoaretheforemostproducersofthefamousfirewaterknownasgrappa.Itismadebydistillingthe
pomace(grapeskins,stemsandseeds)thatremainsafterpressingwine.Atruegrappaisclear,agedinthebottleforaboutsixmonths
(giovane),althoughsome,agedinwood(affinata)forupto18months,takeonafainttingeofcolourfromthebarrel.Agoodgrappa
shouldbeservedchilled,inalong-stemmedfluteortulipglass.At80to140percentproof,itwastraditionallydrunkasanafter-dinner
digestive,sometimesaddedtocoffeeinacaffècorretto,althoughitisnowalsodrunklikevodka,icycoldinshots.
LimonesulGarda.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
TherooftopsoffairVerona.
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LakeMaggiore.
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INTRODUCTION:ORIENTATION
Inthisdetailedguidetotheregion,theprincipalsitesarecross-referencedbynumbersto
themaps.
WhilemostvisitorschoosetostayononeoftheItalianLakes,oneofthejoysoftheregionisthatitis
smallenoughforyoutovisittheothers,thegreathistoriccitiesandthebeautifulcountrysidebetweenthe
lakesoneasydaytrips.ItisonlyanhourbytrainfromDesenzanodelGardatoMilan.
OntheboattoIsoladiSanGiulio.
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PortaBrà,Verona.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
VineyardsinTonale,ValCamonica.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
FabulousVerona,thecityofRomeoandJuliet,grandoperaandmedievalmansions,makesanideal
base.ThroughthewinelandsofValpolicella,youarriveatLakeGarda,thelargestandmosttouristyofthe
lakesandaplaceofvineyards,lemontreesandolivegroves,thankstoitsbalmyMediterraneanclimate.
Northofhere,achangeofsceneisprovidedbythemountainsofTrentino,homeofbrownbears,hearty
Germaniccuisine,gleamingskislopesandthecharmingwalledcityofTrento.Furtherwestaretwo
appealingcities:BresciaboastsaclutchofexcellentmuseumsandiswithinreachofwildLakeIseo,the
FranciacortawinelandsandthefascinatingancientpictographsofValCamonica;whileclifftopBergamo
isallVenetianwallsandcobbledalleys.
Headingslightlynorthwest,thestarsandtheircomettailofcelebrityspottersregardLakeComoas
thejewelinthecrown.Como,BellagioandMenaggioarethebiggestdraws,butlittle-exploredtowns
suchasVarennaalsooffervistastoswoonover.WestagainisprettyLakeLugano,muchofwhichis
actuallyinSwitzerland:carryyourpassportwithyouonforaysintothegloriousmountainouslandscape
aroundthelake.
WedgedinthetrianglebetweenComo,MaggioreandLuganoisVarese,withitsgardens,hillside
chapelsandquietcharm.TheshoresofmagnificentLakeMaggioreofferfurthertreatsforgarden-lovers,
nottomentionanabundanceofpeaceful,palm-linedpromenadesandserenenaturalbeauty.Nearby,
magicallittleLakeOrtaiswellworthexploring,low-keyandrelaxed,withajewelofatowninOrtaSan
Giulio.Finally,metropolitanMilanprovidesanexcitingstartorfinishtoaLakestrip:holeupina
designerhotel,treatyourselfinaswankydayspa,ordoasthelocalsdoandshoptillyoudrop.
VERONA
FromitsgrandRomanamphitheatretoitselegantmedievalandRenaissancepalaces,
Veronaisanenticingcity,withsomeofthefinestpiazzasandmonumentsinItaly,and
greatdiningandnightlife.
MainAttractions
Arena
CasadiGiulietta
PiazzadelleErbe
TorredeiLamberti
BasilicadiSantaAnastasia
DuomodiSantaMariaMatricolare
Castelvecchio
BasilicadiSanZenoMaggiore
TombadiGiulietta
ForgetforamomentthelureofRomeoandJulietandtheappealofanightattheoperainthefamous
Arena.Evenforgetacitythattakesfoodsoseriouslythatitssurroundingrestaurantshavewonaclutchof
Michelinstars.AndignoretheValpolicellaandSoavevineyardsonthedoorstep.Evenwithoutallthat,
Veronaisspecial,oneofthemostbeautifulcitiesinItaly.
Veronaonawinter’sday.
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VeronaisthoughttohavebeenfirstcolonisedbyVenetiansinthe3rdcenturyBC,becomingaRoman
colonyin89BC.Theodoric,kingoftheOstrogoths,chosetomakehishomeandcapitalhereinthe5th
century,anditremainedtheseatofpowerfortheCarolingianKingPepin.Inthe11thcentury,itcame
underGermanruleandin1136becameacitystate,withtheScaliger(dellaScala)familytakingcontrol
in1277andrulinguntiltheywereoustedbytheViscontisin1387.In1405,Veronavoluntarilyjoinedthe
VenetianRepublic,remainingthereuntil1796whenNapoleoninvaded.Afterhisdefeat,itcameunder
Austrianruleuntilindependencein1866butthensustainedheavydamageduringbothworldwars.
Today,alltracesofthedamagemended,contemporaryVeronaisanaestheticallypleasingswatheof
palepinkstonecurlingalongthebanksoftheRiverAdige,itsstreetspavedwithpreciousmarbleand
linedwithdiscreetrestaurantsandchicdesignershops.Ithasapopulationofaround250,000andlives
onamixoftourismandindustry.
Themuch-lovedMadonnaVeronaonPiazzadelleErbe.
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TheArena
StartyourtourinthesplendidlynamedPiazzaBrà(meaningsomethingbigorwide),ahugeopenspace
surroundingtheArena1[map](PiazzaBrà;tel:045-8005151;Tue–Sun8.30am–7.30pm,Mon1.30–
7.30pm).Builtintheearly1stcenturyAD,thisamphitheatrewasdesignedtoseat22,000–thecity’s
wholepopulationatthetime.Itisthethird-largestinItaly(aftertheColosseumandCapua),anellipse
measuring152metres(500ft)by123metres(400ft),andoneofthebest-preservedintheworld,withtwo
ofitsthreeringsofarchesintact.Onlythetopmosttiersofseatshavevanishedintohistory,destroyedbya
seriesofearthquakesinthe12thcentury,leavingthe31metres(100ft)high“Ala”(wing),aseriesoffour
archestoshowhowitwouldhavelooked.
AspectacularproductionofAidakeepstheaudiencespellbound.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
TheArenaFestival
Oneofthegreatestopen-airmusicfestivalsintheworld,ina2,000-year-oldstadium,basedonsome
ofthefinestmusiceverwritten.
Therearetwohourstogo,thedoorsarethrownopenandthefirsteageropera-loversbegintoclimbthewornstonestepstothehighest
ringsoftheVeronaArena.Outside,ascrowdsgatheratthecafétablesinthePiazzaBrà,theeveningsunstreamsdownontotheArena,
whosearchesgleamasredasthebloodoncespilledonitssawdust-strewnfloor.Inthelowesttunnel,wherelionsonceprowledincages
andgladiatorsstoodinchains,operasingersstand,waitingtobetransformedintoEgyptianwarriors.With300menand80womeninthe
castofAida,ittakestwohourstogetthemallthroughmake-up.
AidaattheArena
Inthesummerof1913,tenorGiovanniZenatelloandtheatricalimpresarioOttoneRovatodecidedtocelebratethecentenaryofthebirth
ofVerdiinstylebystagingAidaintheArenadiVerona.Toseeitnow,theywouldbeastonishedbywhattheyhadstarted.Thisisbig
business–theworld’sbiggestopen-airlyricaltheatrefestival–witharound550,000peopleattending50performanceseachsummerand
anannualturnoverof$500million.Thereare350permanentstaffand1,400hiredfortheseason,withtalentpouringinfromaroundthe
world,ledbynamessuchasFrancoZeffirelliandJoséCarreras.
Season’shighlights
WhiletheArenacouldoriginallyseat22,000,thesedaysnumbersarepeggedat14,100forsecurity.Aidaisperformedeveryyear,
NabuccoeveryonetotwoyearsandCarmeneverysecondyear,withtherestoftheprogrammemadeupofoldfaithfulsfromthe
BarberofSevilletoMadameButterfly.
TheoperafestivalrunsfromJunetoAugust,buttheentertainmentcontinuesyear-round,withawinteroperaandballetseasonatthe
TeatroFilarmonicoandaconcertseasonfromOctobertoAprilattheStagioneSinfonica.
Astheeveningdrawsin,candlesflickerintolifearoundthearenaandthedark-robedchorusslipontotheshadowedstage.Singingis
withoutmicrophones,andeventhesesuperbacousticsstrugglealittle,buttheatmosphereiselectricandhourslater,asAidaand
Radamesarewalledupintothevaultforthe90thseasonandthelasttragicnotesdieaway,theaudienceforgetsthecoldstoneseatsand
chillymidnightairandwantsitalltostartagain.
Forfulldetailsandtickets,visitthewebsite,www.arena.it.
Unlikemany,thisamphitheatrehasbeenusedasaplaceofentertainmentthroughoutitslife,butthe
typeofentertainmenthasbeenextremelyvaried,fromgladiatorialcombatinancientRometotrialby
ordealandpublicexecutionsduringtheearlyMiddleAges–nearly200hereticPaterineswereburnedat
thestakeherein1278.In1276,anactwaspassedmakingitthecitybrothelfornearly250years,butby
1580itwasbeingusedfortournaments.Thelastofthesewasheldin1716,andafterthattherewasa
paradeofcircusandcomedy,theatreanddance,horseracingandgymnastics,andevenhot-airballoon
flightsandBuffaloBill’sWildWestShow.Itisstillthehomeofasummer-longoperafestivaland
occasionalrockconcerts.
Tip
Throughouttheoperaseason,anoptionalextraistobookupfortheearlyeveningAnteprima
Opera(IntroductiontotheOpera;www.anteprimaopera.it)inthefabulouschurchofSanta
MariainChiavica,wheremusiciansfromtheoperacompanygiveyouanintroductiontothe
opera(inItalianandEnglish)thatisbeingperformedthatnight,togetherwithatastingoflocal
wines.
AnarchbetweentherestaurantsalongthesideofthesquareleadstotheMuseoLapidarioMaffeiano
2[map](PiazzaBrà28;tel:045-590087;Tue–Sun8.30am–2pm),establishedin1745andoneof
Europe’soldestpublicmuseums,devotedtoGreek,Etruscan,earlyVenetianandRomaninscriptions.
Atthenorthendofthesquare,ViaMazziniisanarrowpedestrianisedroad,linedwithdesigner
boutiquesandfrequentedbyladieswearingthelatestGucciorArmani.Greatforwindow-shoppingand
alsotherouteuptoyournextmust-seedestination.
Thestar-crossedlovers
AsthesettingforShakespeare’sRomeoandJuliet,Veronacontinuestoattractlovers,unconcernedabout
theleveloffictioninthestory.TherewerenoMontaguesandCapulets,buttherewereMontecchiand
Capuleti.SomesaythattheMontecchisupportedtheGuelphs(Pope)andtheCapuletitheGhibellines
(HolyRomanEmperor)intheviolentcivilwarduringthe14thcentury;otherssaythattheyallgoton
perfectlywell.Whateverthecase,theyareascloseasanyonecancometoareal-lifeprototypefor
RomeoandJuliet.In1935,AntonioAvena,thendirectorofthecity’smuseums,realisedthatthecity
couldbeontoagoodthing,followingthesuccessofthenewHollywoodblockbusterversionofthestory,
starringNormaShearerandLeslieHoward,anddoctoreduptheCapuletiHouseastheCasadiGiulietta
3[map](Juliet’sHouse;ViaCappello23;tel:045-8034303;Tue–Sun8.30am–7.30pm,Mon1.30–
7.30pm,lastentry6.45pm),furnishingthehouse,addingafakebalcony(actuallyanoldsarcophagus)and
abronzestatueofJulietbyNereoCostantini.Itiseccentrictosaytheleast–forsomereason,ithas
becomecustomarytorubJuliet’srightbreastifyouarewishingforanewlover–andsheisveryshiny!
Thewallsarecoveredingraffitideclarationsoflove,thecourtyardisheavingwithpeople,butrelatively
fewpaytogointothegenuine12th-(not14th-)centurytownhouse,furnishedwithRomeoandJuliet
costumes,bed,andsoon.TheDalCappellocoatofarms(acap)canbeseenabovetheinnerarchwayof
thecourtyard.
Juliet’sbalcony.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
RomeoandJuliet
In1597,WilliamShakespearewasn’tthefirstorthelasttotellthistaleofteenagehormonesgonemad(orthegreatestlovestoryever
told,dependingonyourpointofview).HegottheideafromArthurBrooke,whowroteitinbadrhymein1562inTheTragicalHistory
ofRomeusandJuliet.HeinturnprobablytranslatedMatteoBandello’sNovelle(1554)basedonLuigidaPorto’sIstorianovellamente
ritrovatadidueNobiliAmanti(1531).AcaptainintheVenetianguard,daPortoclaimeditwasatruestorywhichhehadheardfroma
Veronesebowmaninhiscompany,butitboreanuncannyresemblancetothestoryofMariottoandGianozza,toldbyMasuccio
Salernitano,inIlNovelino(1476),andsetinSiena.
Sincethen,ofcourse,thetalehascontinuedwithGeorgeCukor’sfilmstarringNormaShearerandLeslieHoward(1935),Franco
Zeffirelli’sversionwithLeonardWhitingandOliviaHussey(1968),hitBroadwaymusicalWestSideStory(1957)andits1961film
versionwithNathalieWoodandRichardBeymerintheleadroles,BazLuhrmann’sMTV-esque1996effort(roughlyrecognisableas
Shakespeare)starringLeonardoDiCaprioandClaireDanes,andcountlessotheradaptations.Whattheyallhaveincommonisthatthey
areentirelyfictional–whatevertheVeronatouristofficemaysay!
PiazzadelleErbe
Justalongtheroad,thePiazzadelleErbe4[map](HerbMarket)hasbeenthefocusofthecity’spower
andwealthsinceitwastheRomanforum.Withasmall,touristymarketinthecentreandcafésroundthe
edges,itisalsosurroundedbystunningoldbuildings,amongstthemostimportantofwhicharetheTorre
delGardello(ontheleft,closedtothepublic),anoldertowerrestoredwithitsclockaddedbythe
Scaligeriin1363–70;theBaroquePalazzoMaffeiwithroofterraceanditsrowofstatuesofthegods;
andtheCasaMazzantiwithjolly16th-centurymythologicalfrescoes.
LionofStMarkinPiazzadelleErbe.
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Firstbuiltin1172,thebrick-and-tufaTorredeiLamberti(ViadellaCosta;tel:045-9273027;daily
9.30am–8.30pm,June–SeptFri–Satuntilmidnight,Sununtil10pm)wasstruckbylightningin1403and
restoredbetween1448and1464.Twobellswerelateradded–oneasafirealarm,theotherforcalling
meetingsofthecitycouncil.Theclockwasaddedin1779.Youcanclimbupthestairs(thetoweris84
metres/276fttall)ordoittheeasywayandtakethelift,onlywalkingthelastcoupleoffloorspastthe
bellchamber.Theviewsfromthetoparemagnificent.
TheScaligerilegacy
WhentheScaligerifirsttightenedtheirgriponthecityinthe13thcentury,theysetuptheirhomeandseat
ofgovernmentinwhathadbeenaninsignificantpiazzajusttothenorthofthemainsquare.Itwassoon
transformedbyfabulousarchitectureandbecameknownasthePiazzadeiSignori5[map].
Where
MonumentsinthePiazzadelleErbeinclude:theMadonnaVerona,astatuedatingbackto380
(thefountainwasaddedin1368);theTribunaorBerlina,whereallpublicofficialssworetheir
oathofoffice;andaVenetianlionofStMark,actuallya19th-centurycopy–thecolumnis
original,butthestatuewasdestroyedinthe18thcentury.
TheratherformidablebuildingwiththebattlementsisthePalazzodegliScaligeri,firstbuiltinthe
12thcentury,butmassivelyalteredovertheyearsandnowhometotheprefecture.Theveryprettyyellow
buildingwiththearchesisthefineRenaissanceLoggiadelConsiglio(1476–93),probablybuiltbyFra’
GiocondoandtoppedbystatuesofRomanluminaries,includinglocalboysCatullusandPliny.Itusedto
bethecity’sassemblyhall.
ThestatueofDante,byUgoZannoni,waserectedin1865tocelebratethe600thanniversaryofthe
writer’sbirth(helivedforanumberofyearsinthepiazza).TheCaffèDante,whichopenedin1863,
claimstobethecity’soldest.Itstillhasits19th-centurydecor(butwith21st-centuryprices).
ExcavationsoftheScaviScaligeri(ScaligeriTombs;CortiledelTribunale;tel:045-8007490;
closedforrestoration),inthebasementoftheScaligeripalace,haveuncoveredaVeronatimeline,from
theRomansonwards.Theruinsarealsousedforphotographicexhibitions.Offthesquare,theCortile
MercatoVecchioistheinnercourtyardofthePalazzodelComune,withamagnificent15th-century
Gothicstaircase.
Aroundthecorner,theRomanesquechurchofSantaMariaAntica6[map](ViaS.MariaAntica;daily
7.30am–12.30pm,3.30–7pm;free)wastheScaligerifamilychapel,builtin1185overasmaller7thcenturychurch.SurroundingitaretheArcheScaligere(alwaysopen;free),thetombsofmanyofthe
Scaligerirulers,includingCangrandeI(died1329),whoseequestrianstatuetopsthechurchitself,the
archofMastinoII(1351)–hisequestrianstatuestandingunderacanopysurroundedbytheVirtues–and
thefloridtombofConsignoriobyBoninodaCampioneandBroaspini(1374),encircledbywarriorsaints.
NearbyyoucometothenextspotontheRomeo-and-Juliettrail.RomeoMontague,forallthefeuding
andswagger,reallywastheboynextdoor–CasadiRomeo,alsocalledMontecchiHouse,was
supposedlyonViaArcheScaligere,justacrosstheparkfromJuliet.The13th-centuryhouse,oncehome
tothecountsofCagnoloNogarola,closefollowersoftheScaligeri,isinpoorconditionandclosedtothe
public.
ThefountaininthePiazzadelleErbecanbeagodsendonahotday.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
BasilicadiSantaAnastasia
TothenorthistheBasilicadiSantaAnastasia7[map](PiazzaSant’Anastasia;tel:045-592813;Mar–
OctMon–Sat10am–6pm,Sun1–6pm,Nov–FebMon–Sat10am–1pm1.30–4pm,Sun1–5pm),whichwas
fundedbytheScaligerifamily.Startedin1290andcompletedin1481,itisthelargestchurchinVerona.
Itsbarefacadewasnevercompleted,belyingthegloryoftheartinside–eachofits16chapelsare
lavishlyadornedwithfinealtarpiecesandfrescoes,culminatinginPisanello’sfragilefrescoofStGeorge
SavingthePrincessfromtheDragon.Lookoutforthetwoholy-waterstoupsjustinsidetheentrance:
knownas‘gobbi’(hunchbacks),eachfeaturesastoopedfigurebearingtheweightonhisshoulders.
Bynowyoumaywantabreather.ThereareacoupleofgoodcafésinPiazzaBràMolinaribehindthe
churchandmoreneartheDuomo.Oppositethechurch,CorsoSant’Anastasiaisaninterestingshopping
streetthatlinksbacktoPiazzadelleErbe.Italsohasacoupleofexcellentdelisifyouwanttobuy
ingredientsforapicnic.
TheDuomo
AwholecomplexofbuildingssurroundstheDuomodiSantaMariaMatricolare8[map](Cathedral,
PiazzaDuomo;tel:045-8008813;Mon–Sat10am–6pm,Sun1–6pm).Thechurchitselfwasstartedin
1120,andrisesingracefulstripesoftufawithwhiteandrose-colouredmarble,fromtheRomanesquein
thelowersection,toGothichigherup,andintothe16th-centurymid-sectionbySanmicheli.Thebell
towerwasneverfinished.Inside,thewholechurchwasgivenaGothicmakeoverbetween1444and
1513,itssidewallsandchapelslushwithfrescoesandpaintings.
ThestripeyfacadeoftheDuomo.
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Nextdoor,thelittlechurchofSanGiovanniinFonte(samehoursastheDuomo)wasoncethe
baptistery,foundedinthe8thcentury,butdatingmainlytothe12th,withasuperboctagonalfont(c.1200)
carvedfromasingleblockofrosemarble,showingscenesfromtheNewTestament.Alsonearbyarethe
chapterhouseandcloisters,builtin1140.Thearchesontheeastareoriginal,thosetothewestwere
restoredafterWorldWarII.FragmentsofthemosaicflooroftheearlyChristianbasilicahavealsobeen
uncovered.
ThecathedraltreasuresareallheldintheMuseoCanonicale(PiazzaDuomo29,entryfromthe
cloister;tel:338-9024923;openforguidedtoursonly;bookingessential);highlightsincludearelief
sculptureofSSErmagoraeFortunatobyaComoartist(1120),andseveral15th–16th-centurypaintings.
ButthegreatestitemsliveinEurope’soldestsurvivinglibrary,theBibliotecaCapitolare(Tue–Sat
9.30am–12.30pm,Tue,Frialso4–6pm),foundedinthe5thcenturyAD,whichcontainsmanypriceless
earlymanuscriptsincludinglettersfromCicerotoBrutus;theCapitolareGospels,a5th-centurygospel
writteninsilverandgoldonparchmentsoakedinpurple;andthe6th-century“VeronaRiddle”,the
earliestwrittenItalian(asopposedtoLatin).
TotheCastle
IfyouwanttoheadbacktotheArenathequickway,takethelittleroadjustinfrontoftheDuomo,then
turnleftandrightontoviaSanMamaso.Here,thecavernoushallsoftheoldPalazzoMiniscalchinow
housetheFondazioneMiniscalchiErizzo9[map](ViaSanMamaso2A;tel:045-8032484;Mon–Fri,
11am–1pm,3.30–7pm;www.museo-miniscalchi.it),witharchaeologicalremains,16th-centurydrawings,
Renaissancebronzes,marblesandivories.
Alittlefurthersouth,thequietlyelegantchurchofSanLorenzo)[map](CorsoCavour28;tel:0458050000;Mar–OctMon–Sat10am–6pm,Sun1–6pm,Nov–FebMon–Sat10am–1pm,1.30–4pm,Sun1–
5pm)wasbuiltintheearly12thcenturyovertheremainsofa5th-centurychurch.Typicalofthelocal
Romanesquestyle,itusesstripedbrickandtufarock,whiletworoundtowershousestairsleadingtoa
raresurvivingwomen’sgallery(aseparateareawherewomenusedtopray).
AerialviewoftheCastelvecchio.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Asyouwalksouthtowardsthecastle,youpasstheArcodeiGavi,a1st-centuryADRoman
triumphalarchthatlaterbecameusedasacitygate.DestroyedbyNapoleonicforcesin1805,itwas
movedfromitsoriginalsiteneartheclocktoweroftheCastelvecchioandreconstructedwhereitstands
now.
BornoutofthefamilysquabblesoftheScaligeri,theCastelvecchio![map](CorsoCastelvecchio2;
tel:045-8062611;Tue–Sun8.30am–7.30pm,Mon1.30–7.30pm)wasbuiltbyCangrandeIIafterhishalfbrotherFregnanoheadedarevoltagainsthistyrannicalrule.Constructionbeganin1354,underthe
controlofGuglielmoBevilacqua,butthewallsandtheGermanmercenarieswithwhichCangrande
surroundedhimselfproveduseless.On14December1359,hewaskilledbyassassinsworkingforhis
brother,Cansignorio,whotookpoweroverthecity,movingintotheurbanfortressandrulingwithaniron
fist.ItcontinuedtobetheseatofpowerthroughouttheViscontiandVenetianrules,eventuallybecominga
museuminthe1920s.Taketimetoexplorethetowersandtunnelsofthecastleitselfbeforeyouenterthe
museuminthe“royal”palace,theScaligerifamilyresidence.
Thecollectionisextremelyrichinmedieval,RenaissanceandManneristworks,allbeautifully
presented,anddeservesplentyoftimetoexplore.HighlightsincludetheLongobardjewelleryinRoom1,
theInternationalGothiccollectioninRoom11,includingtheMadonnaoftheQuailbyPisanello,several
gloriouspaintingsbyAndreaMantegnainRoom19,andthosebyVeroneseandTintorettoinRoom23.
Andthat’sjustthetipoftheiceberg.Besidethecastle,thecastellatedPonteScaligeroisanexactreplica
ofthebridgebuiltaspartofthecastledefencesin1355whichspannedtheriveruntilblownupbythe
Germansin1945.Itwasreopenedin1951.
Tip
TheVeronaCardisanexcellentmoney-saver,offeringyoufreeentrytomostmuseums,
churchesandmonumentsinthecityandfreetravelonlocalbusserviceswithinthecity.There
are24-and48-hourversionsavailable(€18and22,respectively),onsaleonline(
www.turismoverona.eu),atparticipatingsights,thetouristofficeandsometobacconistsand
hotels.
BasilicadiSanZenoMaggiore.
Bigstockphoto
BasilicadiSanZenoMaggiore
Onceyouleavetheheartofthecentrostorico,distancesbetweensightsgrow,anditmaybeworthtaking
tothebusestosavetimeandenergy.
Busno.31takesyoutotheBasilicadiSanZenoMaggiore@[map](PiazzaSanZeno;tel:045-800
6120;Mar–OctMon–Sat8.30am–6pm,Sun12.30–6pm,Nov–FebMon–Sat10am–1pm,1.30–5pm,Sun
12.30–5pm),tothewestoftheArena.SanZeno,theeighthbishopofVerona,diedin370,andthefirst
churchonthesitewasbuiltoverhistomb.Betweenthe9thand13thcenturies,thisgrewintooneofthe
finestandmostpowerfulRomanesqueabbeysintheregion,butthecommunitywasdevastatedbyplague
in1630andthepoweroftheabbeyquashedbyVenicein1770.By1831,onlythebasilicaitself,
sandwichedbetweentheredabbeytowerandfree-standingcampanile,remainedstanding.Allthreedate
backtothe12thcentury.
Therelativelysimplefacadeofthebuildingispiercedbyanelaboratelysculptedporchandheavy
bronzedoorsshowingscenesfromtheOldandNewTestaments,themiraclesofSanZenoandthelifeof
Theodoric.Aboveisahugerosewindow,thoughttobebyMasterBriolato,andalsoknownasthe
“wheeloffortune”.Itisbestadmiredfrominside,underthesweepingkeel-shapedwoodenGothic
ceiling.Alongtherightwallareanumberoffine13th-and14th-centuryfrescoes.Onthehighaltar
standsaluminousTriptychwithMadonnaandSaintsbyAndreaMantegna(1457–9).Inthecrypt,there
are4911th-centurycolumns,eachwithdifferenthighlyimaginativecapitals,leadingtotheshrineofSt
Zenohimself.
BacanaldelGnoco
OneofItaly’soldestcarnivals,theBacanaldelGnoco,Verona’sspectacularMardiGrascelebrationsculminateswithaprocessionof
over500floatsand4,000maskeddancersonthelastFridaybeforeLent.Thousandsofkilosofsweetsarethrowntothecrowdsbygiant
figuressuchasContePolentone(CountPolenta),theDucadellaPignata(DukeoftheCookingPot),theConteCaramela(Countof
Sweets)and,aboveall,IlPapàdelGnoco(PapaGnocchi),namedinhonourofthefather-figureofthecarnival.In1531,followinga
faminewhenthepriceofflourwastoohighformostpoorpeople,hecelebratedMardiGrasbygivingthestarvinglocalsafreeplateof
gnocchi(atraditionstillfollowedtoday).Eachdistrictofthecityhasitsowngiant,andelectionsareheldforthepost.Charityandfundraisingeventsleaduptothegrandfestivalparade.
Acrosstheriver
Northfromthecentreoftown,neartheDuomo,thePontePietra(StoneBridge)overtheriveristhought
tohavebeennamedasearlyas89BC,whentheoriginalwoodencrossingwasreplacedbyastoneone.It
hasbeenreplacedmanytimessince,mostrecentlyin1959,whenmuchofthe1508bridgehasbeen
blownupbytheretreatingGermansin1945.Thenewversionisafaithfulcopy.
Onthefarside,firstturnleftforthechurchofSanGiorgioinBraida£[map](LungadigeSanGiorgio;
tel:045-8340232;daily;free),rebuiltbytheVenetiansin1442ontheruinsofan11th-century
Benedictinemonastery.Thefacadeandbelltowerwereaddedinthe16thcentury,designedbyBrugnoli,
althoughsomethinkitwasdesignedbySammicheliorevenbyPalladio.Inside,amongstmanyother
paintings,therearetwogreattreasures,TheBaptismofChristbyTintorettoabovethemaindoorandThe
MartyrdomofStGeorgebyVeronese,thecity’sgreatestexport.
CostumedparticipantsattheBacanaldelGnoco.
Fotolia
RomanTheatre
NowfollowtheriverroundtotheTeatroRomanoeMuseoArcheologico$[map](RomanTheatreand
ArchaeologyMuseum;RigasteRedentore2;tel:045-8062611;Tue–Sun8.30am–7.30pm,Mon1.30–
7.30pm),occupyingapleasingpositiononthehill.WhiletheArenawasusedforgamesandspectaculars,
everyRomancitywouldalsohaveatheatreforplaysandotherculturalperformances.Typically
semicircular,theywereoftenbuiltintothehillsidetosaveonthedigging,andthisone,constructed
overlookingtheriverinthelate1stcenturyBC,isnoexception.Itwaslostunderthecityforyearsuntila
localarchaeologist,AndreaMonga,purchasedthesitein1830,demolishedthehousesonitandbeganthe
painstakingtaskofuncoveringtheRomansplendoursbeneath.Ithasbeenheavilyrestoredandisbackin
use,stagingconcertsandperformancesduringthesummer.
TeatroRomaneMuseoArcheologico.
Bigstockphoto
Attheeasternsideofthetheatre,theonlybuildingthatMongaallowedtostandisthelittle10thcenturychurchofSSSiruseLibera,heavilyremodelledinthe17thcentury.Abovethetheatre,reached
byalift,theformerMonasteryofSanGirolamonowhousesthefullyrenovatedArchaeologyMuseum
(samehoursandticketasTeatroRomano),withawell-displayedcollectionofmosaics,statuesandother
bitsofancientRome,whilethechurchhassome15th-and16th-centuryfrescoes.
Fact
Veronese(1528–88)wasbornPaoloCaliariinVerona(hencehisname).Hestudiedwith
AntonioBadile,movingtoVenicein1553andremainingthereuntilhisdeath,oneofatrio
(withTitianandTintoretto)whodominatedtheHighRenaissance.Theyoftenportrayedthe
ostentatiouswealthofVenetianlifeinbiblicalscenes,andevenincludedportraitsofpatrons
andfriends,muchtothedismayoftheVatican.
Africanart
Behindthetheatreandratheroutofcontextwiththerestofthecity,theMuseoAfricano%[map](Vicolo
Pozzo1;tel:045-8092199;www.museoafricano.org;Tue–Fri9am–12.30pm,2–5pm,Sat9am–12.30pm,
firstandthirdSunofthemonth2–6pm)whisksyoubrisklyacrossthecontinentaldividetolookatAfrican
artviaitsexistentialmeaningandritesofpassage–averyItalianwayofdealingwithit,andinstark
contrasttotheRenaissancefrescoesandgelaterie.
TogetbacktotheItalianmood,dropinnextatthechurchofSantaMariainOrgano^[map](Via
SantaMariainOrgano;dailyexceptMasstimes;free),aBenedictinemonasteryfirstbuiltduringthe
Lombardera(stillvisibleinthecrypt)andrebuiltinthe12thand16thcenturies.Itsoriginalaltarpiece,
byMantegna,isnowinthePinocatecadiBrerainMilan,butitstillhasitsfrescoesandsuperblate15thcenturymarquetrychoirstalls,byFràGiovannidaVerona.
Where
Touristinformation:ViadegliAlpini9(PiazzaBrà),tel:045-8068680;Mon–Sat10am–1pm,
2pm–6pm,Sun10am–3pm;www.tourism.verona.it.
Renaissancegardens
Nearby,theGiardinoGiusti&[map](ViaGiardinoGiusti2;tel:045-8034029;dailyApr–Sept9am–
8pm,Oct–Mar9am–7pm)isgenerallyregardedasoneofthefinestsurvivingRenaissancegardensin
Italy,designedbyAgostinoGiustiinthelate16thcentury.Lawnssurroundthevilla,whilebehindita
greatavenueofcypresstreesleadupthehill.Toonesidearewildlyromanticwoodlandsleadingtoa
cliffwithmossycaves;ontheothertheformalbedandfountainpoolsoftheItaliangarden,withits
panoramicviewsacrossthecityandplethoraofstatuarybetweentheflowers.
GiardinoGiustiisoneofItaly’sfinestsurvivingRenaissancegardens.
Fotolia
Naturalhistorymuseum
Backdownattheriver,headsouthandjustpastthePonteNavi(theShips’Bridge)youwillcometothe
MuseoCivicodiStoriaNaturale*[map](LungadigePortaVittoria9;tel:045-8079400;Mon–Thu9am–
5pm,Sat–Sun2–6pm).Amidsttheinevitabledeadanimalsandinsects,thereisaparticularlyfine
collectionofplantandanimalfossils,withmanyrarespecimensfromBolca,ontheslopesofthe
Lessinianmountains.Themuseumishousedinthe16th-centuryPalazzoLavezzola-Pompei.
Benedictinechurch
WalkbackuptothePonteNaviandcrossovertherivertothechurchofSanFermoMaggiore([map](20
StradoneS.Fermo;tel:045-592813;Mar–OctMon–Sat10am–6pm,Sun1–6pm,Nov–FebMon–Sat
10am–5pm,Sun1–5pm),oneofthemostbeautifulchurchesinVerona.Thefirstchurchheredatesbackto
the8thcentury,butitwasrebuiltbytheBenedictines,startingin1070andonlyfinishedin1313bythe
Franciscans,whilemuchoftheinteriorislaterstill.Itschicstripeyfacadeofwhitetufaandredbrick
blendstheRomanesqueandGothicsurprisinglyharmoniously,whileinsidethefabulouswoodenship’s-
keelceilingandrich14th-and15th-centuryfrescoesaroundthewallsmiraculouslyescapedwhenthe
churchwashitbyafirebombduringWorldWarII.Inside,notethe1495BrenzoniChapelbehindthe
pulpit,Pisanello’smagnificentfrescoofTheAnnunciationontheleftwallandthe11th-centurycapitals
ofthelowerchurch.
SpireofSanFermoMaggiore.
Dreamstime
Keeplookingupatthefinearistocratichomesabovetheshop-frontsasyouwalksouthalongStradone
SanFermoandStradoneMaffei,thenturnleftandright.
There’sonemorelittlesidetrackforthemechanicallyminded.TheMuseodellaRadiod’Epoca,
[map](ViadelPontiere40;tel:045-595855;Mon–Fri10am–6pm,Sat–Sunandholidaysby
appointment)isthepassionofAlbertoChiantera.Designedasahomagetotheradio,ithasliterally
hundredsofsets,someoftheequipmentdatingbacktothedaysofMarconi,whowasborninnearby
Bolognain1874.
Juliet’stomb
Mostpeople,however,willmakeabeelinestraighttotheTombadiGiuliettaeMuseodegliAffreschi
G.B.Cavalcaselle⁄[map](ViadelPontiere35;tel:045-8000361;Tue–Sun8.30am–7.30pm,Mon1.30–
7.30pm),setinthe13th-centuryconventofSanFrancescoalCorso.Heretheywillfindacollectionof
1st-centuryADamphorae,medievalfrescoes,16th-and19th-centurysculptures,includingtwo
magnificentstatuesbyTorquatodellaTorre,andsomeRenaissanceandBaroquealtarpaintings.Butthe
bigdrawisanemptyredmarblesarcophagus,saidtohavebeenJuliet’stomb.Itisalsohere,accordingto
legend,thattheloversweresecretlymarriedbyFriarLawrence.However,whilethesitewasalready
beingidentifiedwithJulietinthe19thcentury,itwasonlyin1935thatitbecamepartoftheRomeoand
Juliettrail.Today,romanticscometolayflowers,throwcoinsintotheemptyfountain,flowersintoan
emptygrave,andsometimestogetmarried(civilweddingsareconductedhere).
INTRODUCTION:LAKEGARDA
VirgilwrotepoemstoLakeGarda,Kafkasetanovelhere,Goethegothimselfarrested,
CatullusandMussolinisetuphouseonitsshores–millionsoftouristswishtheycould.
GardawasgivenitsnameintheMiddleAges,areferencetotheguardianrocksalongitsfortress-like
northernshores.TotheancientRomansitwasknownfarmorebenignlyasLakeBenacus(theBeneficent);
thealternativenameBenacoisstillusedtothisday.
ThelargestlakeinItaly,itis51km(31miles)long(RivatoPeschiera)andupto17km(10.5miles)
wideatitswidestpoint(LazisetoMoniga).Itcoversanareaof370sqkm(143sqmiles),andstandsat
65metres(213ft)abovesealevel.Thelakehasacoastline158km(98miles)long.
SoakingupthesunshineinBogliaco.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Createdbyglaciers,Gardareachesamaximumdepthof346metres(1,135ft).Itiseffectivelyan
inlandfjord,thehighwallsofthenorthernlakecarvedoutbytheactionoftheice,thegreatlow,fertile
bowlatthesouthernendmouldedbytheerosionthatspilledoutintoavastarc,buildinganaturaldam.
Themainriverflowingintothelakeinthenorth,betweenRivaandTorbole,istheSarca.Tothesouth,
theMincioflowsoutfromthelakeatPeschiera.
Themountainstothenorthprotectthelake’sbowlfromthechillAlpinewinter,creatingaminiMediterraneanclimateofindigowaterswherelemontrees,olivegrovesandvineyardscanthrive.
CyclingthroughArco.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Now,Gardaisdividedbetweenthreeprovinces,whicharebasedonhistoricempires.Itseastern
shorehasnowbecomepartoftheVenetoprovince,alongwithVenice,VeronaandValpolicella,whilethe
westernshoreispartofBrescia.ThenorthshoreisinTrentino,anareawhichwasoncepartofthe
Austro-HungarianEmpireuntiltheendofWorldWarI.
EASTERNLAKEGARDA
Garda’seasternshoreisapleasureplayground–whetheryoufindyourpleasureona
roller-coasteroramountainbike,inaglassofValpolicellaorinthedeepgoldofthe
settingsunoveroldVenetianstone.
MainAttractions
ParcoGiardinoSigurtà
Gardaland
Lazise
ZeniMuseoDelVino
MonteBaldo
CastelloScaligero
ThedrivetowardsLakeGarda’seasternshorefromVeronaorBresciacanbeoffputtingandbusywith
trafficandsuperstoresalongthecoastroad,butdon’tbediscouraged.Youonlyhavetodriveafew
kilometrestofindanidyllicmedievalvillageoraspectacularlycrenellatedcastlecoveredinvineswith
astunningviewacrosstheazurewaters.
TheMonteBaldocablecaroffersgreatpanoramicviewsoverLakeGarda.
AWLImages
PeschieradelGarda1[map],inthefarsouth,standsattheoutletofthelake.Althoughnamedasa
fishingport,thishasaboveallbeenagarrisontownsinceRomantimes,fortifiedbyVenetianwalls2.3km
(1.5miles)long,laterreinforcedbyNapoleon.ThemedievalRoccaScaligera(castle),builtonRoman
foundationsandturnedintoaVenetiandockyard,isjoinedbythePalazzinaStorica(tel:045-6400600;
closedatthetimeofwriting,checkwebsiteforre-openingtimeswww.peschieramuseo.it),builtbythe
Austriansinthemid-19thcentury,andhometotheofficialarchivesoftheRisorgimentoandWorldWarI.
TheBattleofSolferino(formoreinformation,clickhere)wasfoughtnearby.Thetouristofficecan
adviseonawalkingtourofallthemilitarybuildingsandbattlements.
AttheLaghettodiFrassino,atinyglaciallake3km(2miles)outoftown,theveryelaborate
SantuariodellaMadonnadelFrassinomarksthespotwheretheVirginmiraculouslyappeared,enthroned
inanashtree,in1510.
ParcoGiardinoSigurtà.
Bigstockphoto
ParcoGiardinoSigurtà
Furthersouth,thesmalltownofValeggiosulMincio2[map]isrenownedforitsexcellentrestaurants,its
Saturdaymarket,andashomeofoneofthefinestgardensinItaly,theParcoGiardinoSigurtà(Via
Cavour1;tel:045-6371033;www.sigurta.it;dailymid-toend-Mar,Oct–earlyNov9am–6pm,Apr–
Sept9am–7pm,lastentryonehourbeforeclosing).Thishugepark,nowcovering56hectares(138
acres),wasfirstcreatedin1617andwasusedbyNapoleonIIIashisheadquartersin1859.Aswellas
rollingparklandandgreattrees,theparkisfamousformassedfloweringsoftulips,irises,roses,lilies
andasters,andforits40,000topiaryboxbushes.Ifthewalkinggetstoomuch,youcanhirebicycles,golf
cartsortaketheroadtrain.
Eat
GiveyourselfovertothespiritofajollyfamilynightoutattheMedievalTimesbanquet
(Canevaworld;tel:045-6969900;www.canevaworld.it/medievaltimes).Expectsplendidcourt
jesters,displaysofhorsemanshipandother“medieval”entertainment.
Laziseharbour.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
TheGardaplayground
Headingbackuptothelake,theremaybeamomentwhenyouthinkyouhavestrayedfromItalyinto
Orlando.TheareajusttothenorthofPeschierahasseveralthemeparks.Aforestofsignboardsdirects
youtolargecarparkingareas,freeshuttlebusesrunbetweenPeschierastation,andalltheparksand
thoseonthewaterhavetheirownjetties.Gardaland3[map]isthebiggest,butothersinclude
Canevaworld,ParcoNaturaVivaatBussolengo,alittlefurtherinland,andParkJungleAdventureat
SanZenodiMontagna,tothenorth(formoreinformation,clickhere).Tuckedamongthebignamesarea
multitudeofsmallerattractionsofferingarcadegamesandgo-karts,medievalbanquets,bouncycastles
andslotmachines–agreatdealforfamilieslookingforentertainment.
TheVilladeiCedri4[map](PiazzadiSopra4,ColàdiLazise;tel:045-7590988;
www.villadeicedri.it;Mon–Thu9am–10pm,Fri,Sun9am–11pm,Sat9am–1am)isagreatgrown-up
playground.Itisaquietthermalparkwithwonderfullylandscapedgroundsaroundtwoswimminglakes,
onewithacave,withthermalwaterataconstant37°C/98.6°F(bodytemperature).Therearetherapies
andtreatments,oryoucanjustswimandsunbathe,andtherearerestaurantsandaccommodationonsiteas
well.
Lazise
Onlyafewkilometresuptheroad,Lazise5[map]isagloriouslittletown–asortofmini-Venice,its
grandlycrenellatedtownwallsstampedbytheVenetianlion.ABronzeAgevillageandaRomancastrum
,itisanaturalharbourthatbecameoneofthemostimportanttownsonthelakeintheMiddleAges.The
beautifullypreservedcastlewithfiveimposingtowerswasbuiltin1014,andrestoredbytheScaligeriin
the14thcentury.Inthelittleharbour,theearly12th-centurychurchofSanNicolòhassomelovely
frescoes.NexttoitisthearcadedDoganaVenezia(VenetianCustomsHouse).Aboveall,withthestreets
filledwithcafésandtheoldstoneglowinggoldinthesunset,thisisawonderfulplacetospenda
leisurelyevening,drinkinginthesceneryandthefabulouslocalBardolinowine.Thelocalmarketdayis
onWednesday.
TheOliveRiviera
Garda’seasternshoreisalsoknownasthe‘RivieradegliOlivi’.This50km(31-mile)stretchofcoastlineisbackedbycliffswhichprotect
theworld’smostnortherlyolivegrovesfromtheharshwinters.Olivetreeshavebeencultivatedheresinceancienttimes.Mostofthe
olivesareusedforextravirginoliveoilwhichismadebycoldpressing(withouttheuseofsolventsorheat).Itismostlyproducedinsmall
familyenterprisesandavailableforpurchaseatproducers’shops.LakeGardaoliveoilisrenownedforitsdelicateandfruityflavour,low
acidcontentanddeepgoldengreencolour,duetoahighchlorophyllcontent.Thishigh-qualityproductevenhasitsownDOP
(denominazionediorigineprotetta).Vineyards,cypresstrees,oleanderandotherMediterraneanplantsalsothriveinthisarea.
Thereareseveralvineyardsthatyoucanvisitfortastingsnearby,alongwiththeZeniMuseodelVino
6[map](formoreinformation,clickhere)uptheroadnearBardolino.InCisanoistheMuseodell’Olio
d’Oliva(OliveOilMuseum,ViaPeschiera54,Cisano;tel:045-6229047;www.museum.it;Mon–Sat
9am–12.30pm,2.30–7pm,Sun9am–12.30pm,closedSunJan,Feb,closedfirstweekandlasttwoweeks
inJan;free).Thisstartedlifeasanolivemill,buthasgrownintoahugeenterpriseattractingthousandsof
visitorswithitsreconstructionofa19th-centurywatermill,thepossibilityofatasting,andthechanceto
buyoliveoil,olive-basedbeautyproductsandlocalwines.
OlivegroveaboveLakeGarda.
Dreamstime
Bardolino
Thenexttownuptheshore,Bardolino7[map]isagainanancientone,itsnameknownthroughoutthe
worldforitswonderfulwines(formoreinformation,clickhere),whichitcelebratesduringtheFeastof
BardolinoChiaretto(ClearBardolino)inMay,theBardolinoGrapeandWineFestivalinOctober,and
theFestivalofBardolinoNovello(NewBardolino)inNovember.Betweenvisitingcellarsand
vineyards,allowtimetowanderaroundtheprettycentrostorico,wherethelovely11th–12th-century
churchofSanSevero(daily9am–6pm;free)hasanimposinglyhugecampanileandsomelively13thcenturyfrescoesofthePassionandtheApocalypse.Thecrypt,behindthehighaltar,isasurviving
fragmentofafarearlierLombardchurch.Nearby,the8th-centurychapelofSanZeno(ViaSanZeno13–
15;daily9am–6pm;free),withasimplebarrel-vaultednaveandpillarsofredmarble,isoneofthe
oldestsurvivingchurchesinItaly.MarketdayisonThursday.
Bardolinovineyardsinautumn.
iStock
WinesoftheRegion
Whetheryouareatrueaficionadoorsimplywantafewbottlestotakehome,headforthehillsof
EasternGarda–hometosomeofItaly’smostpopularwines.
Thereisaclusterofwell-knownwinevarietiesaroundthesoutheasterncornerofLakeGarda.Theshelteredclimate,sunshineandrich,
well-irrigatedsoilproduceperfectgrape-growingconditions.
Custoza(www.stradadelcustoza.com),tothesouth,producessoft,dry,intenseandslightlybitterwhite(bianco)winesfromgrapes
includingTrebbianoToscano,Garganega,TocaiFriulano,MalvasiaToscana,RieslingItalicoandCortese.
TotheeastofVerona,therollinghillsofSoave(www.stradadelsoave.com)producepopularwhitewines,basedmainlyonGarganega
grapes,popularaseasydrinkingacrosstheworld.Look,too,forspumante(sparkling)anddessertwines.
AlongtheshorebetweenthelakeandtheAdigeRiverareBardolinowines(www.stradadelbardolino.com).Thegrowersclaimthe
successofthemainlyfull-bodiedreds(rosso)isduetoStZeno,whotaughttheirancestorstocultivatethegrapes.Hisfaceisonmany
bottles.ThewineistypicallyblendedusingCorvina,Rondinella,MolinaraandNegraragrapesandcomesinclassico,novelloand
superiore.Thechiarettoisarosé,youngandfreshwithovertonesofpeachandapricot.
Classicreds
Valpolicella(www.stradadelvalpolicella.com),eastoftheAdigeRiver,means“valleyofmanycellars”.Itsclassicredsaresomeof
Italy’smostfamous,createdfromcorvina,molinaraandrondinellagrapes.Afruity,medium-weightwine,Valpolicellaisusuallydrunkat
aboutthreeyears.Amarone-Valpolicellaismadeusingsun-driedgrapesagedintoastedoaktoproduceadeep-coloured,dry,fruitywine
withflavoursofliquoriceandvanilla,tobaccoandfig.Itcanbedrunkyoung,butwillageforupto20years.Reciotoisasweet,intense
reddessertversion.
NorthofValpolicella,thewinestakeonthelighter,moreperfumedcharacteristicsofGermanwines.InthevalleyofTerradeiForti,
thelocalwineistherobustredL’Enantio,buttheinternationalsuccessstoryisthefruity,elegantwhitePinotGrigio.
Wine-tastingandhistory
Anumberofwineriesoffertastings,butthebestplacetostartisattheZeniMuseodelVino(ViaCostabella9,Bardolino;tel:045-622
8331;www.museodelvino.it;Mar–Octdaily9am–1pm,2.30–7pm,Jan–Feb,Nov–DecMon–Sat8.30am–12.30pm,2.30–6.30pm;free),a
vineyardthathasbeenrunbythesamefamilysince1870onthehillslopesofthepicturesqueCostabellaregion.Itoffersexplanationsof
localwines,productionmethodsandtastings.Themuseumrunsyouthroughallthestagesofproductionfromlookingafterthegrowing
grapestotheharvest,thenontograpeprocessingandbottlingstage.YoucanpurchasetheentirerangeofZeniwinesaswellaslocal
oliveoilandvinegarattheshop(sameopeningtimesasthemuseum).
Valpolicellawinelands
FrombothLaziseandBardolino,roadsheadeastfromthelakeacrosstheAdigeRivertothevillagesof
Sant’AmbrogiodiValpolicella8[map]andSanGiorgiodiValpolicella,thevillagesattheheartofthe
Valpolicellawinelands(www.valpolicella.it),whereanumberofvineyardsopenthedoorsofoften
statelymansionstothosewishingtotour,tasteandbuy.
Thereare80patricianvillasintheregion,mostbuiltduringtheyearsoftheVenetianRepublic,some
witharchitectsasgreatasSanmicheliandevenPalladio.Mostarestillinprivatehands.Someopenfor
limitedhoursorbyappointment;askthetouristofficefordetails.ThePievediSanGiorgiodi
Valpolicellaisagloriouslittlechurch,analmostintactearly8th-centurychapel,thathassomehow
survivedwarandearthquake.
Sant’AmbrogiodiValpolicella.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Waterfallcanyon
MountainroadsnorthfromhereleadtotheremoteParcoRegionaledellaLessinia(tel:045-6799211),
wherethemedievalvillageofMolina9[map]standsattheheadofacanyonofwaterfalls.TheParco
delleCascate(ViaBacilieri1;tel:045-7720185;www.parcodellecascate.it;Apr–Septdaily9am–
7.30pm,Octdaily10am–6pm,Nov–MarSun10am–3.30pm)haswalkingtrailspastthecrashingspray,
slabsofrockandcaves,andsomeofthe300speciesofplantfoundinthearea.Thereareplentyofother
sightsworthinvestigatinginthepark,too.
Garda
NorthofBardolino,onacurvedgulfframedbyolivegrovesandcypresstrees,thetownofGarda)[map]
,likethelake,takesitsnamefromtheGermanic(Longobard)wordWarte(fortress).Asuitablypowerful
example,builtbyOstrogothicKingTheodoricinthe5thcentury,onceloomedfromthetopofthe294
metres(964ft)RoccadiGarda.ItwasherethatBerengarioIIonceimprisonedthewidowedQueen
AdelaideofBorgognawhomanagedtoescape,andmarriedOttoneIwhopromptlyexiledBerengario.
Thecastlewasdestroyedinthe13thcenturyandonlyafewruinedwallsnowremain,butthereareplenty
ofgrandiosepalazzi,suchasthe16th-centuryPalazzoFregoso(ViaSpagna)inthetowncentre,tokeep
architecturalsightseershappy,whilethechurchofSantaMariaMaggiorehasafine15th-century
cloister.TrytomaketheFridaymarket,oneofthebiggestandbestonthissideofthelake.
BoatsleavefromGarda,aswellasotherpointsaroundthelake,tovisitthelake’slargestisland,the
IsoladelGarda(tel:328-3849226;www.isoladelgarda.com;late-Mar–OctTue,Wed,Thu,Sun,May–
OctalsoFri;guidedtoursonlyandadvancedbookingessential;formoreinformation,clickhere).
Justsouthofthetown,Monasterod’Eremo,orCamaldolesiHermitage,isaworkingmonasteryin
anoldclifftopfort.Womenhaveonlyrecentlybeenallowedtovisit.Oneofthemonksresponsibleforthe
currentbuildingbecamePopeAlessandroVIIin1673.BesideitisthesmallRomanesquechurchofSan
Pietro.
InlandatCostermano![map]isItaly’sCimiteroTedesco(GermanWorldWarIICemetery),
consecratedin1967.Thereare21,920Germansoldiers,previouslyburiedacrossnorthernItaly,who
weretransferredtothisvastgraveyard.Itisfullofheatherandrosesandmarkedwithadoveofpeace.
EastofCostermano,sandwichedbetweentheautostradaandtheAdigeRiver,isthesmalltownofRivoliVeronese@[map],wherehistory-loverswillenjoytheMuseoNapoleonico(NapoleonicMuseum;see
box).
NapoleonBonaparte.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
MadonnadellaCorona
Ifthatdoesn’tappealandyouwouldprefersomethingmorerural,takethetwistingmountainroadaround
thebackofMonteBaldotoCortelline,wheretheSantuariodellaMadonnadellaCorona£[map]stands,
withMadonnapeeringoutacrosstheAdigeValleyfromherlofty774metres(2,540ft)locationsince
1530.Youcanwalkupthe450stepstothechurch,butthereisalsoaroadforthelessenergetic.
FurtheralongatFerraradiMonteBaldo$[map],theOrtoBotanicodelMonteBaldo(Botanic
Gardens;tel:045-6247288;May–Septdaily9am–6pm)showcasethemanyendemicspeciesthathave
ledgeologiststospeculatethatMonteBaldosurvivedtheIceAges.Morethan60speciesoforchidare
foundonthemountainalongwithgentiansandedelweiss,andotherwildlifeincludeschamois,martens
andgoldeneagles.
TheBattleofRivoli
InSeptember1796,NapoleonBonaparte’sarmiesbeganaseriesofskirmishesandbattlesagainstVenetianandAustrianforcesfrom
LegnanoandArcoleeastofVeronatoBorghettonearValeggiosulMincio,CastelnuovodelGarda,thatdecidedthefateofEurope.Inthe
1797ActofCampoFormio,theareanorthoftheAdigeRiverwasgiventoAustria.AftertheBattleofRivoli(14–15January1797),
Napoleonerectedamemorial(1806),laterdestroyedandreplacedbyanAustrianfort.Ironically,thatforthasnowbecomeaNapoleon
museum(PiazzaNapoleoneI14;tel:045-7281309;Mar–OctTue,Thu–Sun9.30am–noon,3.30–6pm,MonandWed,andrestofthe
yearbyappointment),withmemorabiliaanddocumentsfromthecorporal’sItaliancampaigns.
PuntadiSanVigilio
Situatedattheneckofthelake,wherethegentlebowlofthesouthabruptlygiveswaytothenarrow
mountainousdramaofthenorth,about3km(2miles)fromGarda,thePuntadiSanVigilio%[map]isas
nearapieceofscenicperfectionasyouarelikelytofind,anavenueofcypressesleadingdowntothetiny
harbourpastSanmicheli’selegant16th-centuryVillaGuarientiandararesurviving17th-centurylimonaia
(lemonhouse).Withsomefinehotelsandrestaurants,perfectviewsandoneofthebestbeachesonthe
lakeoverlookingtheBaiadeiSirene(Mermaids’Bay),itisprettyclosetoparadise.
PuntadiSanVigilio,alittlepieceofparadise.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Numerouscelebrities,fromAndréGidetoLaurenceOlivierandVivienLeigh,havebeendrawntothe
areabytheHotelGardesanajusttothenorthatTorridelBenaco^[map].ThisbeganlifeasaRoman
town,CastrumTurrium(CampofTowers).ThereareafewRomanremainsinthepiazzainfrontofthe
church,butthetown’ssurvivingtowersbelongtothesquatCastelloScaligero(VialeFratelliLavanda2;
tel:045-6296111;Apr–mid-June,mid-Sept–Oct9.30am–12.30pm,2.30–6pm,mid-June–mid-Septdaily
9.30am–1pm,4.30–7.30pm),withswallowtailbattlements,builtin1383.Thesedays,itisawide-ranging
localmuseumfocusingonlocalfishing,oliveandlemoncultivationandpetroglyphsfoundinthenearby
hills(seefeature).
TheBaroquechurchofSSPietroePaolohasagloriousorgan,builtin1744,whilethesmallchurch
ofSantissimaTrinità(PiazzaCalderini)hassomefineearly15th-centuryfrescoesworthalook.The
littleharbour,whichwasbuiltonRomanremains,issurroundedbycafésthatmakeagoodplacetochill
out,andthereareseverallocalvillagessuchasPai,AlbisanoandSanZenodiMontagnawhereyou
canclimbhighuptheslopesforpanoramicviewsofthelake.
Tip
Ifyoufancygoinghorse-ridingthereareseveralstablesintheareaandfabuloustrekking
routesalongthelakeandintothemountains.
CentroIppicoRossar(Garda;tel:045-6279020).
GenzianaSRL(FerraradiMonteBaldo;tel:045-7220366).
Maneggio(Lazise;tel:045-6470577).
GruppoEquibaldo(SanZenodiMontagna;tel:045-7285333).
MonteBaldo
Tothenorth,thelittlehamletofPrada&[map]istheproudpossessoroftheFuniviaPrada–MonteBaldo
(tel:045-7285662;www.funiviedelgarda.it;reopeninginsummer2017),thechairliftwhichcarries
thosenotafraidofheightsinopenbucketsuptoabreathtakingterrace2,218metres(7,277ft)high,totake
inexquisiteviews.
AribbonoftinyvillagescollectivelyknownasBrenzoneconnectsTorridelBenacowithMalcesine
20km(12miles)tothenorth.Alakesidewalkingandcyclingroutestretchesmuchoftheway,andparked
carsarecrammedintoeveryavailablespaceaspeopleswimfromtherocks.Behindtheroadsoarsthe
bulkofMonteBaldo,actuallyamountainchain,notasinglepeak.
Malcesineviewedfromits13th-centurycastle.
iStock
Malcesine
Malcesine*[map]standsatthegatewaybetweenVenetianandAustrianterritoryandatthenorthernendof
theRivieradegliOlivi,inafabuloussettingwithadistantbackdropoftheDolomites.Undoubtedlyone
ofthemostcharmingtownsonthelake,itisalwaysbusywithtourists.CastelloScaligero(ViaCastello;
tel:045-7400837;daily9.30–6pm),perchedonarocktothenorthofthetown,wasbuiltbytheScaligeri
inthe13thcentury.Theviewfromthebattlementsisstriking,butthecastleisbestseenfromthewater.
Goethewassotakenwiththelookoftheplacein1786thathetookoutasketchbooktodrawthescenery
andwasarrestedasaspy,spendingsometimeinthecastleasaprisonerbeforehewasidentifiedand
released.Someofhissketchesareonshowinthecastlemuseum.
Downintheharbourarea,thePalazzodeiCapitanidelLago(June–Septdaily8am–7pm)was
formerlythehomeoftheVenetiangovernors.TheweeklymarketisonSaturday.
HistoricalGraffiti
In1964,ontheremoteslopesofMonteLuppia,behindSanVigilio,archaeologistsuncoveredpictogramssimilartothoseatValCamonica
(formoreinformation,clickhere).Todate,around3,000inscriptionson250rockshavebeenuncovered,inanareaof40sqkm(15.5sq
miles)fromMonteLuppiarightuptoMonteBaldo.DatingfromtheBronzeAge(1500BC),theyincludereligioussymbols,games,battle
scenes,mountedwarriors,ships,captivesandweapons–theCastellettodiBrenzone(inVeronaNaturalHistoryMuseum)shows73axes
andeightdaggers.Theyarebestseeninearlymorningandaremorevisibleifyouwettherock.Localtouristofficescanprovidemaps,
itinerariesanddetailsofwalkingandcyclingtours.
Malcesineharbour.
GettyImages
Thehighlight(ineveryway)ofavisittoMalcesineistheFuniviaMonteBaldo(tel:045-7400206;
www.funiviedelbaldo.it),thecablecarthatswingsupthemountainfromastation2km(1.2miles)north
oftown,reachingastunning1,760metres(5,774ft).Queuescanbelongandqueuesforthecarparkeven
longer,butthe360°viewsarewortheveryminute.Ifyouwanttocomedownthehardway,mountain
bikingandparaglidingareoptions,andthereare11km(6miles)ofskirunsinwinter.Therearealso
plentyofwalkingtrails,withopportunitiestospotwildlife,rarewildflowersandsomepetroglyphs.
INSIGHT:TIMEFORTHEKIDS
LakeGardaisundoubtedlythefamilyholidaycentrewiththebiggestclusteroftheme
parks,holidayhomesandcampsites.
ThemeParks
It’sathrillaminuteatGardaland(CasteluovodelGarda;tel:045-6449777,www.gardaland.it;lateMar–Septdaily10am–6pm,Oct–late-MarFri–Sun,checkwebsitefortimes;lastentry1.5hrsbefore
closingtime),Italy’slargestthemepark,nearPeschieradelGarda,withroller-coastersthatlooptheloop,
wildwaterrides,theFantasyKingdomforlittlerones,adolphinshowandplentyofotherentertainment.
Alongtheroad,there’shotcompetitionfromMovielandatCanevaworld(ViaFossalta1,Lazisesul
Garda;tel:045-6969900;www.canevaworld.it;May–mid-Sept10am–6pm,until7pmmid-July–end
Aug,weekendsonlyApr,mid-Sept–endOct),whereyoucanrockwithRambo,tussleandscramblewith
LaraCroftandfightpirateswithPeterPan.
ThrillsatGardaland.
GettyImages
CableCars
Givekidsatoweroramountainanduptheyhavetogo–therearebothinbucketloadshere.Beprepared
todigdeepintoyourpocketsfortripsupcablecarsandchairlifts.Onceatthetoptherearewonderful
walkingtrails.Takecoldweathergear,binocularsandabookonwildlifeastheflowersandbirdsareas
lovelyastheviews.Youmayevenseeamartenorfox.
Animals
Toseeanimals–alive,extinctorendangered–spendadayatParcoNaturaViva(Loc.Figara40,
Bussolengo;tel:045-7170113;www.parconaturaviva.it;FaunaparkMon–Sat9am–5pm,Sununtil6pm;
SafariparkMon–Sat9.30am–3.30pm,Sununtil4pm),whichhasadrive-throughsafaripark,walk-through
faunaanddinosaurparksandatropicalgreenhouseandaquaterrarium.RatedasoneofEurope’stopzoos,
itworksfortheprotectionofendangeredspecies.
CultureforKids
Thisistheperfectplacetogivekidsaloveofhistoryandart.Paceitout,researchthehorriblehistories
andgetsomereal-lifestoriesdrippingwithbloodandgore;lookatthewaythingsweremadeandused
andthenextthingyouknowyouwillhaveapint-sizedarchaeologist(ortravelwriter)onyourhands.
SwimmingintheLakes
Whoneedsapoolwhenthereareseveralhundrednaturalswimmingpoolswithwaterofdeepestblueto
vividturquoise,withhundredsofkilometresof(usuallyrocky)shoretoplayon;whetheryou’repaddling
orsnorkelling,thisistheidealplaygroundforkidsandgrown-ups.
EatingIceCream
ItalymayhavegiventheworldMichelangeloandLeonardodaVinci,butformostchildrenitsgreatestgift
wasfood–pizza,pastabutaboveall,gelato–lusciousicecreaminarainbowarrayofflavours.
WaterParks
Preferthingsalittlesplashier?TherearesomewateryridesatGardaland,butyouwouldprobablybe
betteroffheadingforParcoAquaatCanevaworld(address,seeleft;mid-May–mid-Sept10am–6pm,
until7pmJuly–Aug),withridesandslides,lagoonsandpools.Therestoftheadvertisedwaterparksare
mainlyovergrownpoolswithsomeslides.Theyinclude:ParcoAcquaticoCavour(LocalitàAriano,
ValeggiosulMincio;tel:045-7950904;www.parcoacquaticocavour.it),AcquasplashFranciacorta
(ViaGeneraledellaChiesa3,CorteFranca;tel:030-9826441),AcquaparkAltomincio(Località
TorrenteValle,Salionze,ValeggiosulMincio;tel:045-2373540),ParcoAcquaticoPicoverde(Via
Ossario19,Custoza;tel:045-516025;www.picoverde.it)andAcquaticaPark(ViaGaetanoAiraghi
61,Milan;tel:02-48200134;www.acquaticapark.it).
WESTERNLAKEGARDA
TheblendofAlpineandMediterraneanscenery,gorgeousvillasandgardens,aswellas
wine-tastingforaysintothehills,makethisabeguilingregion.
MainAttractions
Sirmione
Solferino
VillaRomana,Desenzano
SalòWaterfront
IlVittoriale
GiardinoBotanicoFondazioneAndreHeller
ValtenesiWineRoute
LimoneSulGarda
OnGarda’sdramaticwesternshore,thesceneryrangesfromsoaring,snow-cappedpeaksanddeep
coniferforeststorollingvineyardsandolivegroves.DespitetheAlpineglacierstothenorthshelving
downtothewater’sedge,thelakeitselfradiatesMediterraneanwarmth.Towardsthenorth,theAlpine
landscapeissoftenedbyglisteninglemonandolivegrovesandheadyscents.Magnoliasandoleanders,
figsandroses,palmsandpomegranatesallthriveinthismildclimate,addingsouthernwarmthtothechill
oftheAlps.Exoticplants,importedfromAsia,theAmericasandAustraliainthelate19thcentury,were
selectedforthevillas’gardensaroundthelake.Amazonianwaterliliesandlotusblossoms,Japanese
maplesandjasminewereallpartofthegranddesigntocombineartandnatureinaharmoniousscene.
WindingshoreroadaroundTignale.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Sirmione
Setonapeninsulaatthesouthernendofthelake,Sirmione([map]isadelightfulspot,despitethewaves
ofday-trippers.OnlyLimoneismorebesiegedinsummerbut,unlikethismorenorthernresort,Sirmione
isadeptatcrowddispersal.Amostself-consciouslycharmingresort,thisisaplaceforpotteringdown
alleys,wallowinginsulphuroushotpoolsormeanderingthrougholivegrovestoRomanruins.
Dog-walkersinSirmione.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
TheGrottediCatullo,whichcrowntherockytipofthepeninsula,haveruinsinfusedwithheady
romancebecausethevillabelongedtoCatullus,Rome’sgreatestlyricpoet.Itwasherethatthepoet
languishedwhilesufferingrejectionfromLesbia,hisficklemistressinRome.Theselakesidehotsprings
haveprovedpopulareversince.Thesteamy,sulphurousthermalbathsofAquaria(
www.termedisirmione.it;formoreinformation,clickhere)areSirmione’sbestcureforstress.
MariaCallas’sVillaMeneghini.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
RoccaScaligera(ScaligeraCastle;PiazzaCastello34;tel:030-916468;Tue–Sat8.30am–7.30pm,
Sun8.30am–2pm),abattlementedfortresscompletewithdrawbridgeandmoat,dominatesthecentreof
Sirmione.Inmedievaltimes,thisfortresscontrolledthesouthernpartofthelake.TheScaligeribuiltboth
thecastleandthetownwallsinthe15thcenturywhentheywerelordsofVerona,usingRoman
foundationsfortheirfortress.Today,thesebastionstemptvisitorsintoanunfoldingparadeofice-cream
parloursandcraftshops.Morecharmingarethewalksthrougholivegroves,thelappingofthelake,the
publicbeach,andthefaintmoodofnostalgiathatpervadesSirmione.
ItwastotheremotenessoftheVillaCortinePalacethatPrincessDiana’smotherretreatedafterthe
deathofherdaughter–toseekthesolaceshecouldn’tfindonhersmallScottishisland.VillaMeneghini,
opposite,waswhereMariaCallaslivedinher1950sheyday.Here,sheponderedthemeritsofher
husband,anageingItaliantycoon,andherlover,theship-owningAristotleOnassis.Thedivaembarked
onaturbulentaffairwithOnassisthattookherontrystsallovertheworld–untilJackieKennedyentered
hislife.Callas’sochre-colouredvillaisnotopentothepublicbutthePalaceHotelVillaCortinestill
servesthebestBellinisintown.FromtheterracesareviewsofRomanruinsandMonteBaldo,which
remindedCallasofMountOlympus.
Solferino
MilitarybuffswillbedrawnsouthtothebattlefieldsofSolferinoandSanMartinodellaBattaglia,[map]
,justinlandfromLakeGarda.ThispartofthelakebecameatheatreofwarduringtheRisorgimento,the
19th-centurypatrioticstrugglefornationhood,whichwasdrivenbyPiedmontandtherulingHouseof
Savoy.OnMidsummer’sDayin1859,thecombinedItalianandFrenchforcesdefeatedEmperorFranz
Joseph’sAustrianarmyinthesebattlefields.Acirculartowernowdominatestheskyline,whilean
ossuarychapelholdsthebonesoftheslain.
Thecampaign’sbloodiestbattlecameatSolferino⁄[map],afewkilometrestothesouth.Here,the
combinedforces,ledbyNapoleonIII,crushedtheAustriansinavictorycommemoratedbyabridgeover
theSeineinParis.AsoneofthemostdecisiveRisorgimentobattles,Solferinohasspawnedamuseum,
militaryfortandossuary,butthebattlefieldisalsosignificantformoreimportanthumanitarianreasons.
Appalledbythebrutalityoftheconflict,withits40,000casualties,SwisscitizenJean-HenriDunantwas
spurredintofoundingtheRedCross.
ThelibraryoftheFondazioneUgodaComo.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Lonato
Furtherwest,anotherintenseexperienceawaitsatLonato¤[map],aslightlysombremedievaltown
nestlinginlow-slunghillsoffthelake.DominatedbytheRocca,ahulkingVenetianfortress,thewellpreservedtownisoflessinterestthanthefortressandthemuseum-residencethatfacesit.
TheFondazioneUgodaComo(ViaRocca2;tel:030-9130060;www.fondazioneugodacomo.it;
daily10am–noon,2.30–6.30pm)isafittingmemorialtoitsausterefounder.Shapedbythewillofa
singularaesthete,UgodaComo(1869–1941),thishomeisaconvincingneo-Gothicfollythatconveysa
passionformedievalculture.Inturninghisbackonhisowntimes,UgodaComocreatedatreasure-trove
that,whilenotonthescaleofIlVittoriale,isstillanenthrallinginvitationtoarichlyimaginedworld.The
librarycontainsover30,000volumes,includingilluminatedmanuscriptsdatingfromthe12thcentury.The
originalmansion,themedievalPodestà,theruler’sseatduringVenetianrule,wasnotsomuchrestoredto
itsGothicsplendourasre-imaginedas“essenceofGothic”.StuddedwithLombardartandmedieval
furniture,UgodaComo’shousefeelsmorelikeamuseumthanahome.Thegloriouslibrarywas
modelledonamedievalLombardchurch.Asabookishpolitician,UgodaComoretreatedtohisGothic
ivorytowerasasatisfyingretreatfromthepoliticalfray.
Fact
TheNapoleonicvictoryatSolferino,oneofthemostfamousbattlesinthewarofItalian
independencefromAustria,begantheprocessofunificationunderVittorioEmanueleIIof
Piedmont.Despitetheirperceivedheavy-handednessandduplicity,theFrenchplantedthe
seedsofaunitedItalianstate.
Desenzano
Backinthemodernworld,Desenzano‹[map]feelsmoreworldlythantherestofthelake,despiteits
undoubtedcharm.AsthebusinesscapitalofLakeGarda,theresortrepresentsatransporthub,witha
terminusforlakesteamers,astationontheMilan–VenicelineandaconvenientA4motorwayexit.
Asawealthycommuterresort,Desenzanocommandsitsshareofdesignerboutiques,livelynightlife
andgourmetrestaurants.YetadeeperidentityharksbacktoRomantimes,andisunderscoredbythe
discoveryofa3rd-centuryADRomanvillaclosetotheharbour.SetonViaCrocefisso,theVillaRomana
(tel:030-9143547;Mar–OctTue–Sun8.30am–7pm,Nov–Febuntil5pm)isnorthernItaly’sfinestlate
imperialvilla.Althoughbuiltinthe1stcenturyBC,themulticolouredmosaicsmostlydatefromthe4th
and5thcenturiesandbearcomparisonwiththoseatPompeii.Curiously,theChristianisingeffectofthat
eraleftitsmarkontheartefacts,whichincludealate4th-centuryglassbowlengravedwithanimageof
Christ.
InRomantimes,Desenzanowasanimportanttradingtown,andtoday’sbustlingTuesdaymarket
evokesthatentrepreneurialspirit.BuiltoveraRomanfort,Desenzano’sruinedcastlestandsinthelofty
CapolaTerradistrict,closetotheformergrainmarket.DesenzanoalsoflourishedunderVenetianrule
andowesitsquaintinnerharbourtothesetimes.Evenifitfeelscity-like,theresortrevealsasofterside
initstree-linedwaterfrontandscenicinnerharbour.Novisitiscompletewithoutagluttonousseafood
dinnerinoneofitslakefrontrestaurants,theplacetoseeDesenzanoatitsgreedy,bourgeoisbest.
Winecountry
PadenghesulGarda›[map]hasasplitpersonality,partprosperouslittlewinetownoverlookinga
pleasantmarina,partmedievalstrong​hold,oncedominatedbya10th-centurycastle.Surroundedby
rollinghills,vineyardsandolivegroves,PadengheisattheheartoftheValtenesiwineroute(formore
information,clickhere).NeighbouringMonigasulGardaboastsitsownwinerootsintheformof
Chiaretto,anadaptablerosé.Thevillageitselfisascenicspot,framedbya10th-centurycrenellated
castle.Theroaddowntotheshorewindsthrougholivegrovesandvineyards,culminatinginaharbour
linedwithrestaurantsandcafés.
Desenzanowaterfront.
Bigstockphoto
Perchedonaheadlandoverlookingthelake,ManerbadelGardafi[map]isaclusterofhamlets
borderingwinecountry.Onthepromontory,RoccadiManerbaisoneoftheloveliestspotsonLake
Garda:thesitedatesbacktotheStoneAgebutthecastle,assuch,wasrazedbytheVenetiansin1575.No
tracesoftheoriginalLongobardcastleremain,andtherearefewsignsoflatercastles.Onasparkling
summer’sday,thispastoralsettingconjuresupbalmySardiniaratherthanAlpineLakeGarda.Whenthe
crowdsinthetouristylakeresortsbecometiring,clamberingaroundtheRoccaprovidesaperfect
antidote,asdoestheorchid-studdednaturereservebelowtheruins.
SanFelicedelBenacofl[map]isalow-keyresortoverlookingtheIsoladelGarda,anislandwhich
canbevisitedonaguidedtour.InSanFelice,theGothicparishchurchofMadonnadelCarmine
displaysaRenaissancealtarpiecebyRomaninoand,curiously,hasrecycledthecastletowerasitschurch
belltower.Itisjustsouthofthevillage,ontheroadtoManerba.
TheRepublicofSalò
OneofthemostshamefulepisodesinItalianhistorytookplaceinSalò’sname.Between1943–5,theRepublicofSalòwasafigleafof
respectabilityusedtodisguisethebrutalityoftheNaziregime.VillaFeltrinelliinGargnanowastheseatofthepuppetgovernment,with
majorvillascommandeeredasembassiesorpropagandaoffices.Mussolini’sprivateresidencewasasecludedvilla,wherehiswife
devotedherselftoherpethenswhileMussolinipassedtimediscussingcasualtieswiththeGermanambassador.Hismistress,Clara
Petacci,livedinVillaFiordaliso.Hetooktheopportunitytoexactrevengeonformercolleagues,evenexecutinghisson-in-law,butfailed
tosurvivethevengeanceofthepartisansin1945.
Salòlightsupatnight.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Salò
ThemostelegantresortonLakeGarda,Salò‡[map]retainsitssenseofself,andresiststheblandishments
ofthetouroperatorsandtrinket-sellersthathavetarnishedlesserresorts.Welcoming,yetsupremely
indifferent,Salòistheclosestvisitorswillcometofeelinghowthelakesmightmanagewithoutus.
Perfectlywellistheanswer.StrollingalongViaSanCarlo,thearcadedshoppingstreet,allowsvisitors
tosnooponthesophisticatedandself-containedlivesoftheinhabitants.Thisisaseriousshoppingstreet,
suchasthoseinComo,Veronaandthebiggercentres,andculminatesinthequaintcitygate.Chicmatrons
andyummymummiesbrowsethedesignershoestoresbeforecallinginforcoffeeandcakeinVassalli
Pasticceria,acitadelofgoodtastesincethe1930s.
Aftertheworldhasbeenputtorightsoveranicedcoffeeandcrunchyhazelnutbiscuits,saunteralong
theLungolago,thewaterfront.Thisbracingpromenade,whichsweepsaroundtheseductivebay,isthe
longestandbestonLakeGarda.OnthewaterfrontisPiazzadellaVittoria,theshowpiecesquareand
thegatewaytoSalò’smedievalheart.OnPiazzaDuomo,justoffthelake,thehandsomeDuomolacks
grace,reflectingtheheavyBaroquehandthatdescendedwiththereformingzealofSanCarloBorromeo.
ThehighlightsaretheRenaissanceportal,a15th-centuryaltarpieceandworksbyRomanino.Tourists
haveimpingedenoughonthelocalconsciousnessfortheretobeacollectionofscarvesandveils“to
coverbetteroneself”(sic)waitingbythecathedraldoor.
SalòisinevitablylinkedtoMussolini,whosetuptheMinistryofForeignAffairsinthedelightful
HotelLaurin,anArtNouveaugem.Evenso,Mussolini’spuppetstate,theRepublicofSalò(seebox),is
aslightmisnomerasmostoftheministrieswereclusteredaroundGargnano,furtheralongthecoast.
D’Annunzio’sDestiny
Castintheheroicmould,thesoldier-poet,warheroandfoundingFascistoccupiesanoddplaceinItalianhearts,somewherebetween
reverenceandbafflement.
D’Annunziodeclared,“DestinycallsmetowardsLakeGarda.”Infact,itwasMussoliniwhopresentedthevillaofIlVittorialetothe
maverickpatriotin1925.IlVittorialeisadecadentDisneyland,ashrinetooneofItaly’smostflamboyantpre-warfigures.Gabriele
D’Annunzio(1863–1938)wasapoet,patriot,pantheist,dandy,daredevil,aviator,aesthete,maverickandmegalomaniac.
Asaright-wingnationalistwhoposedasthesaviourofhiscountry,D’AnnunziofavouredItaly’sentryintothewarin1915andplunged
intothefighting,carryingoutderring-domissions,suchasflyingoverTriestein1915andViennain1918.BelievingthatItalyhadbeen
cheatedbythe1919TreatyofVersailles,heledanunauthorisedinvasionoftheDalmatianportofFiume,whichheruleduntil1921,onthe
basisthatithadbeenpromisedtoItalybeforethewar.SuchactivitiesconvincedMussolinithatthedangerousmaverickshouldbe
pensionedofftoLakeGarda.
Thepoet’shomefailstosolvetheriddleoftheman,butoffersenoughcluestokeeplegionsofpsychiatristsandbiographersinbusiness.
D’Annunzioacceptedthe18th-centuryvillaasamonumenttohismassiveego,calleditIlVittoriale,inmemoryofItaly’svictoryover
Austriain1918,andremodelleditoutofallrecognition.Thevirtualrecluselivedherefrom1921untilhisdeath.
IlVittorialeisascrazilycomplexasitscreator.Thegreatestcontrastisbetweenthelovelinessofthegroundsandthehideousnessofthe
creationsthatinhabitthem.Thereisthegrandiosemausoleum,amagnoliagrovehousingawarmemorial,whilethePugliabattleshipthat
featuredintheFiumefiascoisbizarrelybeachedamidcypresses.Ondisplayinahangarareothervehiclesfromtheescapade,the
biplaneusedfortheflightoverViennaandtheItalianflagD’AnnunzioflewoverYugoslavia.ThemausoleumwheretheItalian“patriots”
areburiedisalsoamonumenttokitsch,whileaneeriemuseumcontainsthepoet’sdeathmask.Despitethisdisfiguringgloom,pocketsof
theformerlemongardensescapethephilosophicalstraitjacketandeventheFascisticamphitheatrehasfineviewsfromthetoptier.
IsoladelGarda
TravelbyboatfromSalò,Garda,BardolinoandGardoneRivieratoIsoladelGarda°[map](tel:3283849226;www.isoladelgarda.com;islandopenlateMar–mid-Oct,bookingrequired).Thetripincludes
foodandwine-tastinginthefee.Inmedievaltimes,Garda’slargestislandoncesupportedamonastery
thatattractedatriumvirateofsaints,includingStFrancisofAssisi;itisthoughtthatDanteAlighierialso
stayedhere.ThemonasterywasrazedbyNapoleonandreplacedbyaneo-GothicVenetian-stylevillaand
lushEnglishandItalianategardens.Thedown-to-earthownersofthispalatialpile,includingCountess
Cavazzaherself,alsoowncampsitesonLakeGarda.
VillaFiordaliso.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
GardoneRiviera
GardoneRiviera·[map],afabledresortthathasfallenoutoffavour,isstillhometothemostfamous
villa-museumonthelake,IlVittoriale,andtotheartybotanicalgardens.InGardone’spalm-courtglory
days,royalty,writersandheadsofstatefilledthedowager-likehotels.TheprettylakesideVilla
Fiordaliso(formoreinformation,clickhere),formerlyMussolini’slovenest,nowachicvilla-hotel,
remainsanevocativetributetothosetimes.
NotthatfadedgrandeurcharacterisesthedelightfullybohemianGiardinoBotanicoFondazione
AndreHeller(ViaRoma2;tel:0336-410877;www.hellergarden.com;Mar–Octdaily9am–7pm).
AlpineplantsandMediterraneanvegetationgrowhappilyonthisrockyspurlyingintheshadowofthe
Dolomitepeaks.ThegardensareenlivenedbyplayfulorsurrealinstallationsbytheAustrianartist.
IlVittoriale
Atestamenttothemegalomaniaoftwomen,MussoliniandGabrieleD’Annunzio,standsIlVittoriale
(ViaVittoriale12,GardoneRiviera;tel:0365-296511;www.vittoriale.it;Apr–Sept8.30am–8pm,Oct–
Mar9am–5pm).Thesoldier-poetD’AnnunziotransformedthisunremarkableArtNouveauvillaandpark
intoabombasticfolly,akingdomofkitsch,whichishistruememorial.Hishome,presentedasashrine,
isagildedcagefitforafindesièclepoetwhoabhorreddaylight.Ineveryover-stuffedroom,thedecor
reflectsthedelusionsofacigar-smokingaesthetewhostruttedaroundinsilkdressing-gowns,declaiming
verseandrearranginghisreliquariesbeforesnoozinginacoffin.Suchself-aggrandisementled
D’Annunziotocreatealowentrancetohisstudysoguestshadtostoop,bowingtothepoet’sgenius.His
warpedsenseofhumourisrevealedinthegleamingArtDecodiningroomwherehisembalmedpet
tortoise,whichdiedofindigestion,isdisplayed.
Fact
Asamorbidhypochondriacwithpooreyesight,D’Annunziopreferredthepenumbraoflight
filteredthroughstainedglass.Wheneventhehalf-lightbecametoomuchtobear,D’Annunzio
retreatedtothebierin“thedeathchamber”(thesparebedroom)inordertothinkcosmic
thoughts.
GiventhatthevillahadbeenexpropriatedfromaGermanartcritic,D’Annunzio’sfirsttaskwas,as
heputit,tohavehisnewhome“de-Germanised”.NotthattheresultisremotelyItalian.Theoncelovely
groundsarescatteredwithsymbolsofwartimeexploitsanddelusionsofgrandeur,fromabattleshipto
vintagewarplanes,arecreationofaRomanamphitheatreandadoom-ladenmausoleum.
GiardinoBotanicoFondazioneAndreHeller.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Thevillaitselfhastwowaitingrooms,afaintlycheerfuloneforfavouredguestsandagloomytemple
forunwelcomeguests,suchasMussolini.Themadaestheteandthebrutalistdictatorwerenever
soulmates.Intheparlourforundesirables,acuttinginscriptionaboveamirrorwasapparentlyaimedat
Mussolini:“Adjustyourmasktoyourfaceandrememberyouaremerelyglassagainststeel.”Mussolini’s
reactionisnotrecorded,butD’Annunziolivedtotellthetale.
Evenifthemaverickwarheroandproto-FasciststartedoutasasupporterofMussolini,hewas
swiftlywalledupinthisdecadentDisneylandforever.Thecoda,ofcourse,isthatdespitehisbombastic
bohemianism,Mussolini’sfellowmegalomaniachadthesensetocounselhisleaderagainstaFaustian
pactwithHitler.Therest,astheysay,ishistory.
Gargnanowaterfront.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Windyshores
Toscolano-Maderno,withseveraldistinctivechurches,arashofapricotandpinkfacadesandan
appealingsandybeach,isbeforeBogliaco,anerstwhilefishingvillagewhichmarksthebeginningofthe
bestwindsurfingandsailingwaters.Here,thelakenarrowsandattractsthe“OradelGarda”,alocal
windsystemwhichblowsfromthesouthwithaveryspecifictimetable.
DominatingthelakefrontisPalazzoBettoni,animpressiveochre-and-greenLombardBaroque
mansionthatbelongstoBrescianaristocrats.MoretypicalistheinvitingbeachattheendofViaCastello,
andtheboldviewofMonteBaldoonthefarbank.
Gargnano
BeyondisGargnanoº[map].Afavouriteamongsailingenthusiasts,itisarguablytheleastspoiltresort
onthelake,andcertainlythemostunderstated.ThelurehereisthesumptuousVillaFeltrinelli(formore
information,clickhere),builtin1892bythesonsofalumbermerchant,FaustinoFeltrinelli,andnowa
luxurioushotel.Withitscrenellatedroofandochre-and-vanillastripes,thevillahassomethingofthelook
ofanoverblownweddingcakeaboutit.In1943theGermanscommandeeredthevillaandinstalled
Mussoliniinthisgildedcage.Hewaseffectivelyunderhousearrest,guardedbyGermanofficers,untilhe
escapedin1945,endinginhiscaptureanddeathatthehandsofpartisans.
BytheharbouristhetinyRomanesquechurchofSanGiacomo(pickupthekeyfromfishermennext
door),apilgrimagechapelfoundedonthesiteofapagantemple.Thiswasthemedievalharbour,when
thesteepnessoftheslopesforcedpilgrimstoarrivebyboat.Fittingly,fishermen,admittedlyadying
breedintheseparts,stillsetsailfromthisharbour.Theyevenstacktheirnetsintheporticoofachapel
frescoedwithaStChristopher,patronsaintoftravellers.
Nearby,the13th-centuryFranciscanfoundationofSanFrancesco(8am–noon,2.30–6pm)boasts
Romanesquecloisterswithcitrusfruitsculptedonthecapitals,proofthatlemonswerepartofthe
landscapeeventhen.D.H.LawrencestayedjustoutsideGargnanowhilepenningTwilightinItaly,an
evocativeaccountofadisappearingwayoflife.Touchingly,theoldwayoflifehassurvivedbetterin
GargnanothanonotherLakeGardaresorts.
Fromvinestobarrels.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Valtenesi’sWineandOilRoute
TheValtenesior“LittleTuscany”isthemostappealingdriveonthelowerlake,combiningoliveoil
estatesandvineyardswithrusticinnsandgourmetrestaurants.
NorthofDesenzanostretchesapatchworkofrollinghills,vineyardsandolivegroves,situatedontheStradadeiVinieSapori(
www.stradadeivini.it),that,afterafewglassesofwine,canconjureupTuscany.FromSalò,thisfoodiecircuitmeandersthroughthehills
behindLakeGardaandvisitsthemostindividualisticestatesclosetothewesternshore.(Vineyardvisitsandlunchstopsarebestbooked
beforehand.)
FromSalò,followthelakeshoreonacircularrouteheadingdowntoDesenzanoandback.Towardstheheadlandisthehamletof
Portese,overlookingtheGulfofSalò,andthefirstportofcall:thewineandoilestateofLeChiusure(tel:0365-626243;
www.lechiusure.net).EnjoytheinspirationalviewsfromtheruinedcastleatRoccadiManerbabeforeconsideringlunchatRistorante
daRino,achicrestaurantoverlookingthelake.
ContinuetoPadenghesulGarda,callinginatthetraditionalZulianiestate(ViaTitoSperi28;tel:030-9907026;www.vinizuliani.it),
tuckedintoafortress-likeinteriorandrunbytheindomitableEleonora.Chiaretto,madewithGroppello,Barbera,Marzeminoand
Sangiovese,isaroséthatsuitslight,uncomplicateddishes.BiancoDonnaEleonora,namedintheowner’shonour,isaclassic
Chardonnay.
Oliveoiltasting
HeadingsouthtoDesenzano,visitthecharmingoliveoilestateofFrantoioMontecroce(Montecroce,VialeAndreis,Desenzano;tel:0309911504;www.frantoiomontecroce.it).Thisaward-winningoliveoilproducergivesthebestpresentationofhowextra-virginoliveoilis
made,usingatraditionalolivepress.Theartisan-styleoilshavenoadditivesand,likethebestGardaoil,tendtobedelicateandfruity,or
medium-fruity.
InlandatLonato,takethetimetostrollbythecastleruins,whichnowhousetheornithologicalmuseumandtheCasadelPodesta,a
libraryofover50,000ancientvolumes.Intownyoucanalsoclimbthe16th-centuryTorreCivicaforpanoramicviewsofthecity,before
returningviaPadengheforafish-inspiredlatelunchintheAquaRivarestaurantatWestGardamarina.
TowardsSalòinPuegnago,Comincioli(ViaRoma10;tel:0365-651141;www.comincioli.it)isboththeoldestandthemostinnovative
wineproducerinthearea,wheretheCominciolifamilyhavebeenmakingwinesince1552.Thefamilyfirmonlyproduceswinesmade
withnativegrapes,suchasGropelloandErbamat,whichisthreatenedbyextinction.Thefirmalsoproducesaward-winningoliveoil.
Afterawine-tastingintheirattractivewineestate,headsouthviathewalledmedievaltownofPolpenazze.
PolpenazzeisfamousforitswinefestivalheldeveryMayandfortheremainsofaBronzeAgevillagewhichispartofthePrehistoric
PileDwellingsaroundtheAlpsUnescoWorldHeritagesite.FromPolpenazze,it’smorevineyardsbeforereturningtoSalò.
Coastalwilderness
ThecoastalroutethensweepsintoTignale¡[map]inaseriesoftunnels,revealingoccasionalflashesof
lakeandatangleofolivegrovesandlemontrees.Tignaledisentanglesitselfinaseriesofviewsthatare
moreanintroductiontotheUpperLakeGardaParkthantothevillagesthemselves.Olivesandlemon
grovesgivewaytochestnutandpinegrovesonthehigherslopes.
RatherlikeTignale,thenameTremosine™[map]isanotionalonefor18disparatehamlets,including
thecoastalvillageofCampione,setinanamphitheatreofcliffs.Tremosine,too,islessaspecificplace
thananecklaceoflakesideterraces,deep-woodedvalleysandforgottenhamlets.Theroadupfrom
Campioneistrulyterrifyingtoallbutthosewithnervesofsteel,soyouwoulddobettertocontinueon
throughLimoneandfollowtheUpperLakeDriveandenjoylunchperchedabovethecliffs,asthebest
waytoappreciatethiswilderness.
Limone
Beyondliesquaint,lemon-scentedLimonesulGarda#[map].Eventhoughtheoldfishingportbeloved
byGoethe,IbsenandD.H.Lawrencehasplentyoftourists,theplacehascharmenough.Brightsouthern
light,atinyportandpastelfacadeshidethepizzaparlours.Thesteep,cobbledstreetsareselfconsciouslyquaint,asistheinnerharbourandthebustlingpromenade.Limoneisascharmingandsickly
sweetasaLimoncelloliqueur.
Still,visitingtheauthentic“lemonhouse”atthetopofthehillrestoresasenseofwhatLimoneonce
was.TheLimonaiadelCastel(ViaOrti;tel:0365-954008;dailymid-Mar–mid-May,mid-Sept–Oct
10am–6pm,mid-May–mid-Septuntil10pm)revealsthesecretsoflemonproduction,acropthathas
flourishedaroundthelakesincethe13thcentury.ThelemonswereintroducedbyFranciscanmonksand,
bythemid-19thcentury,therewereover400limonaie(lemonhouses),whichproducedthemost
northerlylemonsandcitronsinEurope.
Theseevocativelemonterraces,whichcanbeseenfromthelake,arecomplexstructures,withstone
pilasterstoppedbywoodenlatticeworkwhichwascoveredinwintertoprotectthefruitfromfrost.
Growinglemonswasamajorundertaking,necessitatingthecreationofwaterchannelsandeventhe
transportationofrichersoilfromthesouthofthelake.Yetthechallengeclearlypaidoff:thelocalcitizens
enjoyincrediblelongevity,whichsomeattributetothehealthyMediterraneandietoflakefish,lakeoil
andfreshlemons.Themorescientificviewisthatthepresenceofa“wondergene”andcholesterolbeatingprotein(ApolipoproteinA1-Milan)inthegenepoolhasprotectedthelocalsagainstheartdisease
andotherills.
AdrivearoundUpperLakeGarda
StretchinghighaboveLimoneandGargnanoisthewildernessareaoftheParcoAltoGardaBresciano¢
[map],aregionalparkincludingaclutchofhamletsandchallenginghikingtrails.Thebeautyofthepark
isinthedesolateweightofthewilderness,rangingfromdeeppineforeststosilveryolives,witholeander
andbougainvilleaonthelowerslopes.ComparedtoeasternLakeGarda,thewestcommandsthedramatic
views,butwiththemountainsdroppingdirectintothelakeandthelakeroadplungingintotunnels,the
viewsarebestseenontwomountaindrives–aroutefromLimonetoGargnanothatcoilsthroughthe
soaringwildernessofthepark,andthemuchlongerFourLakesDrive,fromRiva,alsoendingin
Gargnano.
BegininthemaincarparkatLimonesulGardaandheadforthecoastalroadsouth.Knownasthe
GardesanaOccidentale,thisexhilaratinglakesideroadisrivenwithtunnelsanddaredevilbendsbut
rewardsdriverswithheady,partiallyglimpsedviewsofthelake.Theswitchbackroadscutthrough
Forra,agorgeenroutetotheTremosinehamlets,centredonPievediTremosine∞[map].Hotel
Paradiso(VialeEuropa19;tel:0365-953012;www.terrazzadelbrivido.it)makesagoodlunchorcoffee
stop,withitsdizzyingviewsfromthevastterraceovercliffsdowntothelake.Equallydramatic,butwith
acosierterrace,isMiralago(PiazzaCozzaglio;tel:0365-953001;www.miralago.it).
AtthehamletofVesio,gostraightoverthejunctionbeforecrossingtheriver,TorrenteCampione,
deepinthewildernessaboveLakeGarda.AsideturningleadstoSantuariodiMonteCastello§[map],a
Romanesquechurchwiththefinestviewsinthereserve.Afterretracingyourstepstothemainrouteat
Vesio,headforGardola,wheretheroadmeetsthelakeshore.
RivadelGarda.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
TheFourLakesDrive
RejointheGardesanaOccidentale,themaincoastalroadheadingnorthtoRivadelGarda,gatewayto
TrentinoandtheFourLakesDrive,oneofthemostadventurousdrivingroutesfromLakeGardaanda
goodwaytoloopbackdowntoGargnano.DramatictwistsandturnstakeinthreeAlpinelakesandthe
medievalvillageofBagolino,beforereturningtoLakeGardaviatheruggedheightsoftheParcoAlto
GardaBresciano.
Tip
TheItalianmedicalprofessioninsiststhatthelakeclimateisbeneficialfor“thestressedand
neurotic,thearthriticandtheasthmatic,theelderlyandyoungchildren”.Asaresult,thespas
intheregionarehighlyvalued,especiallythoseinSirmione.
BeginatRivadelGarda(formoreinformation,clickhere)andclimbValLedro,turningofftothe
southontotheSS45bisandthenright(ontotheSS240)forruralLagodiLedro¶[map],withitsBronze
Agepile-dwellings,museumexplainingthe4,000-year-oldcommunity,andtheresortofPievediLedro.
AtStoro,turnleftontotheSS237,towardsthedeep-bluefjord-likeLagod’Idro•[map],framedby
woodycragsandfamousforitstrout-fishing,makingadetourrighttoatmosphericBagolinoª[map].
RetraceyourstepstoLakeIdro,thehighestlakeinLombardyat368metres(1,207ft),pausingtoswimat
Anfo’sbeaches(inAugustonly).ThenwanderdownfromPieveVecchiaandZumieviatheforkedtarnof
LagodiValvestinoq[map],whichisactuallyadam,backtoGargnano.
INSIGHT:LAKEGARDAONTHEWATER
Withitssurrealbluewatersanddramaticcliffs,thereissomethingother-worldlyabout
LakeGarda,andoutonthewaterthemagicisallthemoreintense.
Ferries
Thereisnoone“mustdo”tourofthishugelake–evenonthehighspeedcatamaran,gettingfromRivadel
GardainthenorthtoDesenzanointhesouthtakesoverthreehours.Instead,Gardaboattoursarea
splendidpickandmixfromamongstthedozensofferriesandpleasureboatsthatcriss-crossthewater
everyday,linkingtownsalongbothshores,crossingthelakeatkeypointsand,inthesouth,converging
likeaspider’swebonSirmione.
Choosebetweenstandardferries,historicpaddlesteamers,high-speedcatamaransorhydrofoils(and
payasmallpremiumfortheprivilege).Mostoftheboatscarrypassengersonly,buttherearesomecar
ferries,fromRivatoDesenzano,LimonetoMalcesineandMadernotoTorridelBenaco.Thenumberof
servicesdropsdramaticallyinwinter(Oct–Mar).
Ticketsareavailablebythejourney,butifyouwantthefreedomtoroam,considerbuyingadaypass.
Thesecomeinthreeversions–onecoveringthewholelake,onefortheUpperLake(Rivadownto
Bogliaco,justbeyondGargnano)andonefortheLowerLake(Desenzano,PeschierauptoGargnano).
Thereareadultandchildfaresavailableandticketsalesofficesbyallthequays.Formoreinformation,
contactNavigazioneLagodiGarda,tel:030-9149511or800-551801(free​phone),www.navlaghi.it.
Takingaboatout
Rentaboatforanhour,anafternoonoradayandsailormotorwhereyoulike.Thereareboat-hireyards
inmostoftheresorttowns.Pricesvarywildlyandcanbesteep,sodoyourhomeworkbeforesettingout.
Mostoftheboatshavealadder,makingiteasytoswimofftheback,soyoucantakefinsandsnorkels,or
afishingrod,orsimplytakeapicnicandsomesunblock.Justrememberwhatyourhomeharbourlooks
like,soyoucanfinditagain.
Dinghies
Thenorthernpartofthelakeinparticular,aroundTorbole,isknownasperfectsailingterritory,andthe
ferrieshavetothreadtheirwaythroughflotillasoftrainingdinghieswhilewindsurferszipprecariously
underthebows.Thereareplentyofplacestohireequipmentandschoolswhereyoucanhavelessonsin
safetyifyou’dliketohaveago.
Breezestostorms
Whileblessedwithwarmsummersandmildwinters,Gardaisalsoknownforwindsandevensavage
storms.Thegardesanaisapleasantcoolingbreezeonhotsummerdays–perfectforcoolingdown.The
ventdesoraisbenign,blowingfromthenorthintheearlymorningsinfineweather,idealfor
windsurfers,whilethevesentinablowsinofftheBardolinohills.Thespisocawhipsupastrongerwind
inthegulf.Theoraisahot,risingwindblowinginoffthesouthernplain.Bothgivesailorsarunfortheir
money,butitistheleva,blastingdownfromTrieste,thatcancausemostdamageonshore.
SailingoffBogliaco.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
EarlyBoats
Gardahashadferriesforaslongasithashadpeoplelivingonitsshores,butitgotitsfirststeamferry,
theArciducaRanieri,in1827.Moreandmoreshipswereaddedtothefleet,possiblythemost
interestingofthemtheAmicoaProra,knownas“TheHandlebar”,whichwaspoweredbyeighthorses
yokedtohandlebarsondeck,turningthepaddlewheels,whichsailedfor10yearsuntil1830.ByWorld
WarI,around30,000visitorsayearweretravellingontheferries.Intheperiodbetweenthewars,anew
fleetofshipswascarryingupto400,000ayear,numbersnotreachedagainuntilthe1980s.Thesedays
welloveramillionpeopleayeartaketoGarda’swaters.
NORTHERNLAKEGARDAANDTRENTINO
ThecultureofLakeGardachangesyetagainasyoureachthefarnorth.Nowpartofthe
provinceofTrentino,thisarearemainedpartoftheAustro-HungarianEmpirerightup
until1918.
MainAttractions
RivadelGarda
GrottaCascataVarone,RivadelGarda
PiazzaDuomo,Trento
CastellodelBuonconsiglio,Trento
CastelAvio
MUSE–MuseodelleScienzediTrento
MART,Rovereto
ParcoNaturaleAdamello-Brenta
Trentinoisamountainouslandwhereeaglessoarinsummerandskiersswoopdowngleamingpistesin
winter.ItmaybeItalian-speaking,butitsGermanicrootsremainstrong,withbeerandsachertorte,
sausageandsauerkrautonthemenus,whilethearchitectureisinfluencedbytheAustriancourtandbythe
steeprooflinesnecessitatedbythewintersnows.
RivadelGarda.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
ViewofMountCevedale,ParcoNazionaledelloStelvio.
Dreamstime
Peoplewerelivingintheareaby12,000BC–thiswasthehomeoftheNeanderthalsandOetzithe
Iceman(formoreinformation,clickhere).ItwaslargelyignoredbytheRomans,althoughofficiallypart
oftheempire.Christianityarrivedinthe4thand5thcenturies,followedbyGoths,Longobardsand
Franks.In1027,theregion,bynowpartoftheHolyRomanEmpire,wasgiventothelocalbishopasa
principality.In1363,adealbrokeredbetweenthedukesofAustriaandtheprince-bishoplefthimasa
virtualfigurehead,whilethedukesgotonwithrunningthecountry.
In1545–63,facedwiththegrowingthreatofProtestantismnorthoftheAlps,theCouncilofTrent
convenedtoshakeuptheRomanChurch,butitfailedtoagreeonanythingmuchotherthanawillingness
tostampoutanysignofheresy.
NapoleoncameandwentbeforetheHolyRomanEmpirecrumbled.Inhiswake,theAustriansgot
theirlandsback,buttheprince-bishopsofTrentodidn’t,andItalian-speakerssuddenlyfoundthemselves
beingdirectlyruledbyanorthern,Germanregime.LongbeforeWorldWarI,therewasamovetowards
joiningthenewlyformedKingdomofItaly.Inthatwar,thousandsdiedinbitterfightingontheTrentino
front.Whenitwasover,on4November1918,ItalianforcesmovedintoTrento.
Meanwhile,throughoutthemorepeacefulperiodsofthe19thandearly20thcenturies,thenorthern
partofLakeGardawasconsideredasanatoriumforthebourgeoisieandaristocracyofMitteleuropa.
Today,localthermalspasarebeingrebornas“well-beingspas”,ledbyLevicoTerme.Forthehealthy,
themountainsprovidechallengesaplenty,frommountainbikingtohiking,paraglidingtobirdwatching,
andifyouarevery,verylucky,youmayjustcatchaglimpseofoneofthebrownbearsrecentlyreleased
intothewildsoftheParcoNaturaleAdamello-Brenta(formoreinformation,clickhere).
RivadelGardawaterfront.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
TheLake
RivadelGarda1[map],a19th-centuryLido,isstillthemainresortinthenorth,itsbroadwaterfrontwith
itsporticoedmedievalPiazzaIIINovembreperfectlydesignedforstrollingintheeveningsun.Therest
ofthetowniscrammedintothesmallamountofavailablespacebeforethemassivecliffsofMonte
Rocchettaat1,575metres(5167ft)soarskywards.TheGermaninfluenceisclear–inthesolidly
northernarchitecture,inthemenus,inthesheervolumeofGermantouristswhoflockhere.The12thcenturyRocca(Castle,PiazzaC.Battisti3;tel:0464-573869;mid-Mar–May,OctTue–Sun10am–6pm,
June–Septdaily10am–6pm)atoneendofthewaterfronthasthetown’smuseumandartgallery,whilea
footpathleadsuptotheBastione,aVenetianfortress(built1508)thatloomsoverthelake.Inthecliffs
behindthetown,theGrottaCascateVarone(tel:0464-521421;Mar,Oct9am–5pm,Apr,Sept9am–
6pm,May–Aug9am–7pm,remainingmonthsSunandpublicholidaysonly10am–5pm;www.cascatavarone.com)isadramaticwaterfallthatcascadesthroughanarrowcanyon,showeringtherockswith
opalescentspray.
PlayingonTorbolebeach.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Furthereastonthelakeshore,Torbole2[map]isoneofthelake’sprettiestresorts,chieflyknownfor
thewindswhichmakeitanidealbaseforhugeflotillasofwindsurfersanddinghysailors.Youcansee
thefulllengthofthelakeonaclearday–thoughthesearefewandfarbetween.Aslighthazeisthenorm
eveninfullsunlight.Goethewasmostadmiringwhenhestayedherein1786,avisitcommemoratedbya
statueinthemainsquare.
Afewkilometresinland,Arco3[map]wastheAustrianimperialresortandthemostprestigiousofthe
19th-centurysparesorts,akurpavilon,asanatoriumwithaspa,medicinalinhalationsandtherapeutic
baths.TreatmentscentredonthecurativepropertiesoftheSarcariverwater,whichwasvaporisedto
producesteamscentedwithpineresin.Thesedays,itisbest-knownforthedramaticmedievalCastello
diArco,whichclingstoarockontheoutskirtsoftown(tel:0464-510156;Apr–Sept10am–7pm,Mar,
Oct10am–5pm,Nov–Feb10am–4pm,JanSat–Sunonly).
Fact
WhileBritishwriterswerewaxinglyricalaboutComoandMaggiore,theGermanseulogised
northernGarda–amongstthemHeinrichandThomasMann,Rilke,Nietzsche,Kafkaand
Goethe,whodescribedthelakeasaWunderwerkderNatur”(awonderofnature).
Trento
BeyondArco,aregimentofothervillageswithcastles,includingDrò,DrenaandCastelToblino,
proceeduptheSarcaValleytotheregionalcapitalofTrento4[map],astartlinglybeautifulwalledcity
surroundedbythejaggedpeaksoftheDolomites.
StartinthePiazzaDuomoA[map],whichwasfoundedonthesiteoftheoldChristiancemeteryjust
outsidetheRomanPortaVeronese,atwinarchthatcontrolledtheroadalongtheAdigeValley.These
daysthecityhaswrappeditselfaroundthecathedral,with15th–16thcenturyarcadesonthreesidesofthe
piazzaandthebeautifulFontanadelNettuno(NeptuneFountain;1767–9)byFrancescoAntonioGiongo
atthecentre.Ofthemanypaintedhousesinthecity,twoofthefinestareinfrontofyou–theCasa
Balduini,probablytheworkofFrancescoVerlafromVicenza(1510),andCasaCazuffi,paintedby
MarcelloFogolino(1527–49)fromSanVitointheFriuliregion.
TheBasilicaDuomodiSanVigilioB[map](PiazzaDuomo;tel:0461-980132;daily6.30am–noon,
2–6pm)wasdesignedbysculptor-architectAdamod’ArognoduringtheruleofPrince-BishopVanga
(1207–18),althoughmuchwasdestroyedinaddingthegreatgallerieddome.Unusually,thesidefacing
thepiazzaismoreelaboratethanthewestfront,whichfacesasmallstreet.
Beneaththecathedralaretheremnantsoftheearly6th-centuryBasilicaPaleocristianadiSanVigilio
(PalaeochristianBasilicaofStVigilio;PiazzaDuomo18;tel:0461-234419;Mon–Sat10am–noon,2.30–
5.30pm),builtoverthetombsofTrentino’sfirstevangelists,themartyrsSisinio,MartirioandAlessandro
andBishopVigilio(AD400).
Afewblocksaway,intheSpazioArcheologicoSotterraneoSASSC[map](Subterranean
ArcheologicalArea;PiazzaCesareBattisti;tel:0461-230171;Tue–SunJune–Sept9.30am–1pm,2–6pm,
Oct–May9am–1pm,2–5.30pm),atimelineofthetownistracedback2,000yearsfromRomanbuildings
toamedievalquarter,aRenaissancepalace,a19th-centurytheatreandthemodernday.
Drink
InthenorthernpartofLakeGarda,alegacyofAustro-Hungariantimesisthebizarregrape
cureknownasthetraubenkur,anautumnritualinvolvingtheimbibingoflargequantitiesof
grapejuice.Originallythoughttocleanseone’sbodyoftoxinsaftertheexcessesofsummer,
thecontemporary“cure”ismoreofanexcusetodrinkafinerangeofregionalwinesand
grappas.
BackinthePiazzaDuomo,thefoundationsoftheTorreCivicaD[map](tel:0461-234419)restonthe
formerRomangateway.Builtinthe10thcentury,withmanyadditionsovertheyears,thiswasthekeepof
PalazzoPretorio,usedasaprisonforatime.TheRengabellannouncedpublicmeetingsandexecutions.
Thepalace
The13th-centuryPalazzoPretorioE[map](PiazzaDuomo18;tel:0461-234419;June–SeptMon,Wed–
Fri9.30am–12.30pm,2.30–6pm,Sat–Sun10am–1pm,2–6pm,Oct–MayWed–Sat9.30am–12.30pm,2–
5.30pm,Sun10am–1pm,2–6pm;www.museodiocesanotridentino.it)holdstheMuseoDiocesanodel
Trento(DiocesanMuseumofTrento),withthelavishcollectionoftreasures,vestments,tapestriesand
artamassedbytheprince-bishopsoverthecenturies.OntheothersideofthePalazzoPretorioisthe
austereCastellettodeiVescovi(tel:0461-234419;visittobearrangedwiththeDiocesanMuseumof
Trento).ThebasementcontainsthechapelofSanGiovanni,thenextfloorthechapelofSanBiagio,now
usedasthecathedralsacristy,whiletheimpregnabletopfloor,fortifiedbyBishopVangainthe13th
century,wastheprince-bishops’home.
TrentoDuomo.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Thecastle
TheirofficialseatwasinthehugeCastellodelBuonconsiglioF[map](ViaBernardoClesio5;tel:0461233770;www.buonconsiglio.it;Tue–SunMay–earlyNov10am–6pm,late-Nov–Apr9.30am–5pm,also
openMoninAug).Builtonarockyhillnearthe13th-centurycitywalls,overthecenturiesithasevolved,
andtodayyoucanvisitthe13th-centuryPalazzoVecchio(OldPalace)andtheluxurious15th-century
MagnoPalazzo,builtbyPrince-BishopBernardoClesioandliberallycoveredwithhisownheraldic
symbols.Botharemuseumsholdingrichcollectionsofarchaeology,artandhistory,furnitureand
tapestriesandmusicalscoresdatingback1,500years.Housedinthecastlecarpentryworkshopsisthe
MuseoStoricodelTrentino(MuseumoftheHistoryofTrentino;tel:0461-230482;
www.museostorico.tn.it;closedforrestoration).
TheTorredell’Aquilainthecastlegroundsisoneofmanyalongthe13th-centurywallsatthecity
limits.BernardoClesio(laterprince-bishop1514–39)housedhisentouragehere,andtherearesome
magnificent15th-centuryfrescoesoftheseasonsbyaBohemianmaster.Severaltowersstillstand,but
onlyacouplecanbevisited.
Mountainmuseums
AnyoneinterestedinmountainlifeshouldvisittheMUSE–MuseodelleScienzediTrentoG[map]
(MUSEScienceMuseum;CorsodelLavoroedellaScienza3;tel:0461-270311;Tue–Fri10am–6pm,
Sat–Sun10am–7pm;www.muse.it),formerlytheMuseoTridentinodiScienzeNaturaliandnowinanew
locationinamodernRenzoPiano-designedbuildingnexttoPalazzodelleAlbere.Alongwiththeusual
floraandfaunadisplays,themuseumexplainsthegeologyoftheDolomitesandtheprehistoricpeopleof
themountains,includingNeanderthals.Itstropicalgreenhouseshowcases132Africanplantspecies.
CastellodelBuonconsiglio.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
CastlesintheFrontLine
Fromruinedkeepscladinivytoluxurychateauhotels,vastfortressesandwalledcities–Trentinohas
acastleforeveryone.
ThemotorwayrollsinvitinglydowntheAdigeValley,followingthelineoftheRomanViaClaudiaAugustaAltinatewhichconnectedthe
AdriaticSeatotheDanube–avitaltradingrouteandalsotheobviouschoiceforanyinvadingforce,withaforkdowntheSarcaValley
tothelake.
SinceOstrogothstrampedsouthtoendtheRomanEmpire,thisregionhasseenfarmorethanitsfairshareofarmiesonthemarch.
Garrisontownsandobservationpostsbecamedramaticallysited,withsplendidlycrenellatedcastles,andthebuildingcontinuedeveninto
the20thcenturyastheAustro-HungarianforcesstrungWorldWarIfortsacrossthehighgroundtodefendthebordersoftheirempire.
Theresultisanextraordinarilyrichcollectionofmilitaryhistoryspanningover1,000years.Somearestillprivatepropertyandnotopento
thepublic.Someareopenashotelsandrestaurants,othersasmuseums.
MuseumofItalyatwar
CreamofthecropwastheseatofthePrince-Bishops,CastellodelBuonconsiglioinTrento.Rovereto’s15th-centuryVenetiancastle,
CastellodiRovereto,ishometothesombreMuseoStoricoItalianodellaGuerra(viaCastelbarco7,Rovereto;tel:0464-438100;
www.museodellaguerra.it;Tue–Sun10am–6pm),whichtellstheviolentlocalstoryoftheRisorgimentoandtwoworldwars.Builtbythe
Castelbarcofamilyinthe14thcentury,todayitisconsideredtobeoneofthebestexamplesoftheVenetian-typeAlpinefortifications.It
isausefulintroductionifyouwishtovisittheplateauxthatborethebruntofthefighting.Todoso,headbackupnorthashortdistanceto
Calliano,wherethevastCastelBeseno(tel:0464-834600;www.buonconsiglio.it;mid-Mar–earlyMaySat–Sun9.30am–5pm,early
May–earlyNovTue–Sun10am–6pm,early-Nov–early-MarTue–Sat9.30am–5pm)encasesthewholehilltopinramblingwalls.This,
togetherwithitssmallertwin,CastelPietra,markstheturn-offtoFolgaria.TheWorldWarIfrontwasalongthisarea,whichstillbears
thescarswithforts,pillboxes,gunemplacementsandtrenches.Thetouristofficeproducesadetailedleafletwitharoutemap.
Castleofwarandlove
CastellodiAvio(SabbionaradiAvio,32km/20milessouthofTrento;tel:0464-684453;www.fondoambiente.it;Wed–SunMar–Sept
10am–6pm,Oct,NovandsecondhalfofFeb10am–5pm,alsoopenTueinAug,lastentry30minutesbeforeclosing;closedDec–mid-
Feb)standsatthebackofMonteBaldo,ahuge12th–13th-centurycomplexoffivetowers,apalaceandakeepcommandingtheAdige
valley.Insidearesomevivid14th-centuryfrescoes–theguardhouseisdecoratedwithscenesofwar,celebratingCastelbarcofamily
victories,whiletheHallofLoveonthefourthfloorofthekeepisadornedinamorechivalricfashionwithpaintingsonthethemeof
medievalromance.
TheMuseodellaSocietadegliAlpinistiTridentiniH[map](MuseumoftheSocietyofTrentino
Alpinists;ViaManci,57;tel:0461-981871;openonbookingonly;free)isasmallmuseumofold
documents,photosandclimbinggearhousedintheheadquartersoftheTrentinoAlpinistsAssociation,
foundedinMadonnadiCampiglioin1872.
Ontheedgeoftown,theMuseoStoricodegliAlpini(MuseumofAlpineTroops;DossTrento;tel:
0461-827248;Tue–Thur9am–noon,1.30–4pm,Fri9am–noon;free)isanationalmonument
commemoratingtheroleoftheAlpineTroopsinWorldWarI.ItisbasedinanAustrianpowder-magazine
neara6th-centurychurch.
Therearetwentyplanes,somedatingbackto1910,withvariousenginesandpartsaswellas
photographsandarchives,ondisplayattheMuseodell’AeronauticaGianniCaproniI[map]
(AeronauticsMuseum;ViaLidorno3,TrentoAeroporto;tel:0461-944888;Tue–Sun10am–1pm,2–6pm;
www.museocaproni.it)ontheoutskirtsoftown.
TheAdigeValley
AfewkilometresnorthofTrento,theMuseodegliUsieCostumidellaGenteTrentina5[map](Folklore
Museum;ViaMach2,SanMicheleall’Adige;tel:0461-650314;www.museosanmichele.it;Tue–Sun
9am–12.30pm,2.30–6pm)isoneofItaly’sfinestethnographicmuseums,inaformerAugustineconvent,
showinglocalcustoms,costumeandtraditions.
TheroadbrancheseastintothewildhighpeaksoftheDolomitesfortheParcoNazionaledello
Stelvio,thelargestparkintheAlps,andtheParcoNaturaleAdamello-Brenta6[map],thelastrefugeof
thebrownbear(formoreinformation,clickhere).FortheAdigeValleycastles.
TheRenzoPiano-designedMUSE.
Shutterstock
Tip
EverysummertheSoundsoftheDolomitesfestivalbringsopen-airconcertstothemountains,
withinternationalmusiciansperforminginbreathtakingsettings.Foreventslistings,see
www.isuonidelledolomiti.it.
SouthofTrento
JustsouthofTrento,ontheslopesofMonteBondone,thespatownofGarnigaTerme7[map](tourist
informationtel:0461-842586)specialisesinhaybaths(withcurativegrasses)saidtocureosteoarthritis,
rheumatism,musclespasmsandstiffjoints.
Fact
OnCollediMiravallenearRovereto,the“MariaDolens”,ortheBelloftheFallen,isthe
largestfunctioningbellintheworld,weighinginat22,600kg(22.25tons).Itringsdailyat
sunsetinmemoryofthefallenofallwars.Along-distancePathofPeacealsotracestheline
ofthebattlefields,leadingtotheAdamelloandMarmoladoglaciers.
ThestunningMARTatrium.
iStock
Rovereto.
GettyImages
Rovereto
Furtherdownthevalley,themedievaltownofRoveretoisfullofsurprises,firstamongthemafabulous
world-classmuseumofmodernartinastunninggallerydesignedbySwissrationalistarchitectMario
Botta.TheMART(MuseoArteModernaeContemporaneaTrentoRovereto,CorsoBettini43;tel:
freephone800-397760;www.mart.trento.it;Tue–Sun10am–6pm,Friuntil9pm)hasacollectionwhich
startedin1987whentheartistFortunatoDeperodonatedaround3,000ofhisworkstothetown.Since
thenithasgrowntoincludeworksfromaroundtheworld,includingWarhol,RoyLiechtenstein,and
BruceNaumann.
RoveretoitselfrevealsanengagingmedievalandRenaissanceheart,despiteunprepossessingmodern
quarters.Inthetowncentre,theRiverLenoislinedwithsilk-workers’tallhouses.Silk-makingwas
introducedinthe16thcenturyandhelpedmakeRoveretotheregion’schiefindustrialcentre200years
later.WorldWarIcausedgreatdamagebutthecentrestillhasafadedcharm,withfrescoedfacades,
loggiasandportalsadornedwithfamilycrests.
AlpineClimbing
TheruggedindividualistswhoopeneduptheDolomitesinevitablypassedtheirbatontotheAustriansandItalians,andtheAltoAdige
(SouthTyrol)regionnowproducessomeofItaly’sfinestclimbers,includingReinholdMessner,perhapsthegreatestmountaineerofall
time.Thishigh-altitudeAlpinisthadscaledmostoftheDolomitespeaksbytheageof20,andinspiredsuchclimbersasBritain’sChris
Bonington.Messner’smantraisstill:“Iammyownhomeandmyhandkerchiefismyflag,”buthislatestmissionistocreatemuseumsof
mountaineeringtopreservehislegacy.Ironically,thegreatestproponentofAlpine-styleclimbingnowdeclares:“Alpinismisdead,though
itsspiritstilllivesonalittleinBritainandAmerica.”
ThewindingViadellaTerraisthebackboneofthepicturesquemedievalquarter,linkingthechurchof
SanMarcowiththeGothiccivictowerandtheCastellowhichhousestheMuseoStoricoItalianodella
Guerra.ThecastlecameintobeingasamoatedmilitaryfortressguardingtheAdigeValleycrossing.
ThecrenellatedbastionwasremodelledbytheVenetiansbutstillfollowstheruggedcontoursoftherock.
Ithasservedasapoorhouse,aNapoleonicgarrisonandanAustrianbarracksbeforebecomingawar
museum.
Untilthe18thcentury,muchofthesurroundingcountrysidewasgivenovertomulberryorchardsand
thesilkwormbreedingthatsuppliedthelocalindustry.Today,theslopesarecoveredinvineyards.
BRESCIA
Lombardy’s“mini-Milan”isrelishingitsculturalrenaissance,thankstoitsrevitalisedcity
centre,restoredRomanremains,themostrewardinghistoricalmuseuminItaly–andthe
winelakesinitsbackgarden.
MainAttractions
PiazzaDellaLoggia
DuomoVecchio
Brixia
MuseodiSantaGiulia
IlCastello
Longoverlooked,dignifiedBresciastrikesfewchordswithloversofthelakes,buttoenviousItaliansit
meansmoneyandmaterialism,sparklingwineandSlowFood.Tothelocals,itmeansahinterlandof
wineandlakes.ThecityitselfisaLombardworkhorse–handsomeratherthanbeautiful–thoughthe
multi-layeredurbanmixofRomantemples,RomanesquechurchesandRenaissancepalacesisadrawfor
localsandvisitorsalike.
DuomoNuovoonPiazzaPaoloVI.
GettyImages
Onceconsideredtobeaphilistinecitythatplacedcommercebeforeculture,Bresciahasonlyrecently
wokenuptoitsartisticgoldmine.Oftendubbeda“mini-Milan”,Bresciahasbeenrebornasanartcity:
Roman,RomanesqueandRenaissanceBresciarepresentatrueheritagetrail.Therebrandingcamewith
thetransformationofSantaGiuliaintoItaly’sleadinghistoricalmuseum,followedbyanongoingseriesof
blockbusterartexhibitions.Today,Brescia’sreputationasaploddinglyindustriouscityisbeingburied
underplauditsforitsartisticflair.
Apicturesquecobbledbackstreet.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
TheLongobardera
Thecitywasalwaysunderrated,eveninitsearlymedievalheyday,whencraftsmencreatedintricatestone
sculpture,frescoesandjewellerythatdefinedtheLongobardandCarolingianeras.TheLongobards,a
warlikeGermanicpeople,conqueredthelakesandcolonisedBresciainthe6thcentury.Despite
intermarryingwiththenativesanddutifullyespousingChristianity,thesettlersretainedtheirstolidimage.
PerhapsthisresidualTeutonicworkethic,coupledwithalackofcorruption,producedtheresolvethat
pavedthewayforLombardy’sphenomenalindustrialsuccess.ThismurkyperiodoftheLongobardand
CarolingianconquestsiswellpresentedinBrescia’sstunningMuseodellaCittà.
Where
TouristOffices:ViaTrieste1;tel:030-2400357;PiazzaleStazione;tel:
030-8378559;www.bresciatourism.it.
Thelowercity
Dominatedbythemedievalcastle,thelowercityisareminderthatBresciawasastrongholdofthe
LombardLeague,andanarmsproducersincetheMiddleAges.Longbeforethat,Brixia(Brescia)wasa
prominentRomanbase,whichiseasytooverlookasLombardandVenetianpalacesmadetheirmark,
alongwiththebrutalstampofMussolini’sboot.Thismulti-layeringisclearintheinterlockingsquaresof
PiazzadellaLoggia,PiazzadellaVittoriaandPiazzaPaoloVI,whichformtheheartofoldBrescia.Here,
aprovincialmoodprevails,withneon-and-chromebarslosingouttocosyinnsandquaintshopfronts.
Thepiazzas
PiazzadellaLoggia1[map]isthesymbolofRenaissanceBrescia,andthecity’sloveliestsquare,
liveliestduringtheSaturdaymarket.ThespaceisdominatedbyLaLoggia,thetownhall,which
combinesRenaissancestylewithneoclassicalsensibility:thefacadewasdesignedbySansovino(1486–
1570)andPalladio(1508–80)butonlyfinishedin1575.
PiazzadellaLoggia.
Dreamstime
Thesquare’sharmoniousmansions,gildedastronomicalclocktowerandgracefulloggiasare
testamenttotheVenetianinfluenceintheRenaissanceera.Architecturally,thesquareisapoeticVenetian
ensemble,incontrastwiththemoreprosaicLombardstyleelsewhere.Evenso,Brescia’sloveof
recyclingisseeninthefacades,whicharestuddedwithRomaninscriptions,symbolicallysitedthereby
theVenetianrulersin1480.
Undertheporticoes,whereViadeiMuseimeetsPiazzadellaLoggia,lietwochapelswovenintothe
urbanfabricofthecity.ThetinyfrescoedchapelofSantaRitaisdedicatedtothepatronsaintoflost
causes,whiletheadjoiningchapelofSanFaustinoinRiposo(ViadeiMusei;Mon–Sat8.30am–noon,
2.30–5.30pm;free),isasnugchapelhungwithex-votos.
Possessingrivalcathedralsandtheseatofthemedievalcityrulers,PiazzaPaoloVI2[map]
representstheconvergenceofspiritualandtemporalpowers.ThecylindricalDuomoVecchio(Old
Cathedral;daily9am–noon,3–6pm;free)isthestar,oneofthefewsuchRomanesquechurchesinItaly.Its
deepspiritualpresenceispickeduponbytheheadoftourismforthecity,MassimoGhidelli,whosaid,
“CatholicismisinourDNA.”Butsotooareambition,artandcommerce,asMassimocheerfullyadmits.
DwarfingitinsizebutnotinspiritualityistheDuomoNuovo(NewCathedral;tel:030-42714;daily
7.30am–noon,3–7pm;free),achillyconcoctionwithafacadecarvedoutoflocalwhitebotticinomarble.
Besideit,theturretedBroletto,whichincorporatedRomancolumnsasastatussymbol,wasthe
medievalseatofpowerwhenBresciawasacitystate,thoughitsfacadeiscakedinflouncystatuary.
Hereyoucouldsitandhaveadrinkinoneofthesquare’sLatin-styleoutdoorcafés,andthenenjoythe
distractionsoftheelegantshopsontheporticoedViaXGiornate;theyareconsolationforthesomewhat
soullessPiazzadellaVittoria3[map].ThisponderoustributetoFascism,Mussolini’spodium,failsto
re-evokethegloriesofancientRome.Instead,this“new”Fascisticforum,inauguratedbyMussoliniin
1932,resemblesatroubledDeChiricocanvas,withitsalienatinggeometricaldislocations.
Shop
Shoppingunderthechicporticoes(portici)isveryBrescian:strollfromPorticiXGiornate,
whichfollowthefoundationsoftheRomanwalls,tograndCorsoZanardelli.Fromthere,head
westtoCorsoPalestroandPiazzadelMercato,alovelyRenaissancesquare,beforeheading
southtoViaMorettoandViaXXSettembre.
RomanBrescia
FarbetterlovedisBrixia,therealRomanBrescia,representedbytheremainsoftheCapitolium,
Forum,Amphitheatre,Basilicaandaclusterofvillas,someofwhichwereunearthedintheSantaGiulia
complex.Thegrid-likeRomanstreetplanhasleftadeepimprintonBrescia,influencingurbandesignto
thisday.Moreover,notonlydoesBresciaboastthegreatestconcentrationofRomanbuildingsnorthof
Rome,butthediscoveriescontinue;Unescorecogniseditsimportancein2011byawardingitWorld
HeritageSitestatus.
Thelatestarchaeologicalexcav​ationsbelowtheCapitolineTemplehaverevealedpartofaLate
RepublicansanctuarydecoratedwithgeometricfriezesandPompeiianfrescoes,whichwilleventuallybe
ondisplay.
BetweenPiazzadellaLoggiaandViadeiMuseiliemostofthevisibleRomanruins,whicharebeing
incorporatedintoanarchaeologicalpark.YetthemedievalViadeiMuseirunsacrosstheRomanForum,
provokingtheeternalItaliandebate:canwejustifydestroyingoneancienthistoricaltreasuretorescue
another?
Themosteye-catchingsiteistheCapitoliumorTempioCapitolino4[map](PiazzadelForo;tel:0302400640;www.bresciamusei.com;mid-June–SeptTue–Fri10.30am–7pm,Oct–mid-JuneTue–Fri
9.30am–5.30pm),whichwaspreservedbyamedievalmudslidethatcoveredituntil1823.Abovethe
ancientForumloomthegracefulCorinthiancolonnadesofthisCapitolineTemple,erectedbyVespasian
inAD73.ThebestRomansculpturesarealreadyintheMuseodellaCittà,includinganarrestingWinged
Victory,afittingsymbolforsuchawarlikecity.
AdjoiningtheCapitoliumistheTeatroRomano,thepartiallyrestoredRomanamphitheatre,oneof
northernItaly’slargest,whichwasusedforpublicmeetingsuntilwellintomedievaltimes.
TheDuomoNuovoandDuomoVecchio.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
MuseodellaCittà
TheMuseodellaCittà5[map](CityMuseum,ViadeiMusei81;tel:030-2977834;
www.bresciamusei.com;mid-June–SeptTue–Sun10am–7pm,Oct–mid-JuneTue–Sun9.30am–5.30pm)
islocatedinthenearbySantaGiuliamonasticcomplex,whichliesonthedecamanusmaximus.The
museumisthebroadest-ranginghistoricalmuseuminItaly–alsorecentlydeclaredaUnescoWorld
HeritageSite–coveringBrescia’s3,000-yearhistoryinacompellingpresentationthattouchesonmost
aspectsofourcommonEuropeanheritage.Setinaformerconvent,itselfbuiltoverRomanbathsand
Carolingianchurches,themuseumformsalabyrinthofbuildingsfoundinsitu,includingpatricianRoman
villas,aByzantinebasilicaandaRomanesqueoratory.
TheconventwasfoundedinAD753byDesiderius,kingoftheLongobards.Bresciawasan8thcenturyduchyunderDesiderius,whosedaughterwasmarriedtoCharlemagneaspartofthedealtocrown
himHolyRomanEmperor.
GivenBrescia’sartisticminingofitspast,eventheCrossofDesiderius,abejewelledCarolingian
gem,incorporatestinyRomancameos.Inanunspokendialoguebetweengenerationstocome,onecameo
showsaRomanwomanappearingtopeerperplexedlyintothedescendingDarkAges.
However,thereisnothingdryanddustyaboutthismuseum:Hellenisticgoddesses,Longobardkings,
Dionysusandhispetpanther,andthatcameoofaRomannoblewomanallspeaktousacrosstheages.The
citysymbol,thepowerfulWingedVictory,wasrecentlyrevealedtobeGreek,datingbacktothe3rd
centuryBC,althoughthewingswereaddedfourcenturieslatertoturnAphrodite,theGreekgoddessof
love,intoanavengingsymbolofRomanmilitarymight.EventhenunsofSantaGiuliahaveleftasenseof
theircloisteredlives.Mostlywealthynoblewomen,theywereforbiddencontactwiththeoutsideworld
butcouldatleastspyonvisitorsfromthegorgeouslyfrescoedconfinesoftheNuns’Choir.
Whilethecity’ssplendidRenaissanceartgallery,thePinacotecaTosioMartinengo,isundergoing
restoration,partofthecollectionisonviewattheMuseodellaCittàGiuliaprovidingfurtherreasonto
makeavisit.
TheRomanCapitolium.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Thecastle
Forthemostatmosphericwalkuptothecastle,turnrightoutoftheMuseodellaCittàtothecafé-lined
PiazzaTitoSperi,sittingatthefootofthecastle.Onasunnyday,takethebucolicrouteviaContradadi
Sant’Urbano,asuccessionofstairwayswindingupthehill.Evenexploringthetwistingbackalleys
belowthecastlewillallowyoutotravelbackintime.
Loomingabovethecity,theCastello6[map](ViadelCastello;grounds8am–8pm;free)hasaleafy
feel,withthelanguidmoodunderscoredbythehauntingsoundsofpiano-playingthatfloatthroughthe
windowsofthemusicstudents.Insidethecastle,theMuseodelleArmi(ArmsMuseum;tel:030-297
7833;www.bresciamusei.com;mid-June–SeptFri–Sun11am–7pm,Oct–mid-JuneThu–Fri9am–4pm,
Sat–Sun10am–5pm)actsasareminderthatBresciahasbeenItaly’smainarmsproducersincemedieval
times.Thelocalsplaydowntheirdeadlyexpertise,butaresecretlyproudthattheFBI“buysBrescia”,
andthat“their”BerettapistolsarethehandgunsofchoicefortheNewYorkpolice.
Alsointhecastle,theMuseodelRisorgimento(tel:030-2977833;samehoursasMuseodelle
Armi)holdsanarrayofartefactsrelatingtotheItalianRisorgimento,includingpaintings,ceramicsand
sculpture.
Tuckedintothewoodedslopes,SanPietroinOliveto7[map](ViadelCastello;tel:03041531/49264;Mon–Sat7–11.30am,4–7.15pm,Sun9.30am–noon,4–8pm;free)enjoysatranquilsetting.
TodayhometoCarmelitefriars,theharmoniouscomplexconceals16th-centurycloistersanda
Renaissanceinterior.
ViaPiamarta,oneoftheoriginalRomanthoroughfares,liesbelow,andatthebottomofthehillis
PiazzaTebaldoBrusato,anatmospheric,tree-linedmedievalsquarethatfeelslikeitcouldbelongin
Provence.ForareturntocontemporaryBrescia,jointhecocktailcircuitonPiazzaleArnaldo,theformer
grainmarketfurthertothesouth.
Nearby,oneofthecity’sbigattractions,thePinacotecaTosioMartinengo8[map](PiazzaMoretto1;
tel:030-2977834),iscurrentlyclosedforlarge-scalerestoration;thecollectionofLombardRenaissance
artisondisplayattheMuseodellaCittàandtheMuseoDiocesano.
Brescia’scastle.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
CorsoZanardelli
Itispleasanttowindow-shopalongthearcadedboulevardofCorsoZanardelli,wherecafés,boutiques
andthecolonnadedoperahouseawait.TheTeatroGrande9[map](CorsoZanardelli9;tel:030-297
3333;www.teatrogrande.it)offersadynamicmixofoperaandclassicalmusic.Justnorth,Piazzadel
Vescovato,onViaMazzini,isanelegantsquarewithlimetreesaroundamonumentalfountain.
Tip
Inthecitycentre,MariabrunaPerfumeryisahavenfromurbanstressrunbyMariabruna
Zorzi,Brescia’sbeautyguru.Hereyoucanconcoctnewperfumes,getimpartialadviceon
beautyproducts,ortryanewbeautyorspatreatment(PiazzaVescovato1;tel:030-45194;
seerecommendedspasclickhere).
TheCrossofDesiderius,theMuseodellaCittà’sprizedexhibit.
SuperStock
CorsoMatteottiandCorsoMameli
Furtherwest,thechurchofSanFrancesco)[map](ViadiSanFrancescod’Assisi;tel:030-2926701;
Mon–Sat7–11.30am,3–7pm,Sun3.30–7.30pm;free)isthemostserenelateRomanesquechurch,
enhancedbyGothiccloistersandvaultsfrescoedbyRomanino.SantiNazaroeCelso![map](Corso
Matteotti;tel:030-3754387;Sat3–7pm,Sun8am–noon,2–7pm;free)hasagrandneoclassicalfacade
butisbest-knownforTitian’sAveroldiAltarpiece,amasterpiecethatfusesVenetianmysterywithRoman
muscularity.
ThisatmosphericareaofCorsoMatteotti,MameliandGaribaldiisgraduallybeingrenovatedrather
thangentrified.BourgeoisBrescianshadabandonedtheircrumblingmansionsandimmigrantcommunities
hadmovedin,butthetidemaybeturning.TheregenerationofCorsoMamelireflectsthenewspirit,
typifiedbythelocals’prideinTorredellaPallata,arough-hewnmedievalgateway,andtherestoration
ofamagnificentfountain.
Nearby,theMuseoDiocesanodiArteSacra@[map](ViaGasparodaSalò;tel:030-40233;Thu–
Tue10am–noon,3–6pm)displaysreligiousart,includingworksbyMorettoandTiepolo;afewworks
fromthePinacotecaTosioMartinengoarealsobeinghousedhere.
TheCarmineDistrict
AshortwalkawayisSanGiovanniEvangelista£[map](ContradadiSanGiovanni;tel:030-2400224;
daily7.30–11am,3.30–6.30pm;free),withits15th-centuryfacadeandRenaissanceartbyRomaninoand
Moretto.ThisisthevibrantCarminedistrict,theethnicpartoftownwhichaddsanotherinteresting
dimensiontothecity.MeanderingaroundheredispelsthemythofBresciabeingastatic,closedplace.
ThereareplentyofNorthAfricanrugsandGhanaianrobesaround,andsomeofthedilapidatedpalazzi
arenowbeingrenovated.Attheheartofthedistrictisthehandsome,barrel-vaultedGothicchurchof
SantaMariadelCarmine$[map](ContradadelCarmine;tel:030-304169;Fri–Sun10am–noon,3–6pm;
free).
SantiFaustinoeGiovita%[map](ViaSanFaustino;tel:030-292195;Mon–Sat7.30–11am,3–7pm,
Sun7.30am–noon,3–7pm;free)isaBenedictinefoundationwithafacadecarvedoutofbotticinostone,
andartbyTiepoloandRomanino.
AtthesouthernendoftheCarminestandsthe16th-centurymonasteryofSanGiuseppe(VicoloSan
Giuseppe5;tel:030-40233;Mon–Sat7.30–11am,3–5.30pm,Sun7.30–11am;free),itsfinelyfrescoed
cloister(Mon–Sat8.30am–noon,3–6pm)squeezedbetweentallmansions.
Where
TheMilleMiglia(thousandmiles)vintagecarrallygoesinaloopfromBrescia’sPiazzadella
LoggiatoRomeandback.HeldeveryMay,thisisItaly’smostfamousrally,andattractsover
20,000peopletolinethestreetsinthesectionfromBresciatoDesenzanoonLakeGarda.
VintagecarscompeteatBrescia’sMilleMiglia.
Dreamstime
MilleMiglia
Despitecobblestonesandsteepslopes,Bresciaisoverrunbycyclists,thoughitalsomanagestoremainin
thralltocars.Thecity’sMilleMiglia(ThousandMiles)rallyhasplayeditspartinhelpingItaliansfallin
lovewithcarsforever.It’sashortcabrideeasttotheMuseoMilleMiglia^[map](Vialedella
Rimembranza3;tel:030-3365631;www.museomillemiglia.it;daily10am–6pm).SetinaBenedictine
monastery,theVintageCarMuseumshowcasesthevintagerallycarsintheirracingcolours.British
racingdriverStirlingMoss’srecordtimeof10hours7minutestoRomein1955wasamilestonein
racinghistory.
TheclocktoweronPiazzadellaLoggia.
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Lapasseggiata
Backonthestreets,Bresciaissometimesdismissedasacityofsomewhatponderoussouls,charactersas
conservativeastheyareCatholic,butaritualeveningstrollrevealsalessstrait-lacedside.Corso
Zanardellicomesaliveforpasseggiata,theparadethatlake-lovingBrescianscall“levasche”,asin
“doinglengths”inacommunalpool.These“Lengths”tendtoendintrustywinebarslikeVineria,or
heartyinnslikeAlFrate,wheredealsareclinchedoverFranciacortawine,salamiandcheese.As
citizenswhobelieveinworkinghardandplayinghard,itseemsthatBrescianswereborntomixbusiness
withpleasure.
INSIGHT:SPAHEAVEN
Brescia’ssulphurousthermalwaters,knownsinceRomantimes,areparticularly
appealingoncooldays.
InkeepingwithItalianpractice,mostauthenticthermalspasareclinical-lookingmedicalspasthatare
miredinthepastandmannedbydoctorsinscarywhitecoats.However,Aquaria,intheTermedi
Sirmione,byLakeGarda,isaglowingexception.Thesettingisdelightful,basedaroundasuccessionof
poolsandwaterjetsbesidethewaterfront.
Italiansdistinguishbetweenthermalspas(terme)andwell-beingspas(centribenessere),where
waterisnotanintrinsiccomponentofthetreatment.Asarule,thermalspasaremoresuitableforspecific
curesandlongerstays,whilewell-beingspasareaestheticallypleasing,pampering,andofferarangeof
massages,facialsandbeautytreatments.Butinthebestthermalspas,suchasSirmione,thedistinctionis
blurred.Swimminginthebubbling,cocooningpoolsisparticularlysoporificinwinter,whenthesteam
risesoffthewaterandswimmersaretransportedintoadream-likestatereminiscentofanAntonioni
movie.
Italiansswearbywatertherapyandthehealingpropertiesofspecifictypesofwater.Aquaria(
www.termedisirmione.it)isaseductive,soothingthermalspawhereyoucanidleawayamorning
slippingfromoneopen-airplungepooltoanotherorbeingwrappedinmud,whilethetraceelements
supposedlyworkonyourcellulite.Asforthesciencebit,themineral-ladenwaters,richinsodium
chlorideandtraceelementssuchasiodine,potassiumandmagnesium,heatedto36–38°C(96–100°F)
gentlyexfoliatetheskin,andinducedeeprelaxation,butareespeciallybeneficialforanyonesuffering
fromrespiratorycomplaints,vascularproblems,rheumatismorarthritis.
Purelywell-beingtreatmentscanbesampledintheregion’sboutiquehotels.InBresciaitself,Il
Santelloneresort(www.ilsantellone.it)isatruespajourney,takinginthe“Romanroute”,fromthe
RomanBaths,CaldariumandTepidarium,toaserenesettingthatreusesRomanesquecolumnsand
artefacts.Setinastylishlyconvertedmonasticcomplex,thespaembodiesamoodofpeaceandharmony.
Butwithdeliciousunguentsslatheredoverone’snakedbody,indulginginwineorchocolatetherapycan
feellikedabblingintheDarkArts.
ClosertoLakeGardaandLakeIseo,PalazzoArzaga(www.palazzoarzaga.it)combinesagolfing
breakwithaspaescape,typicallyahis-and-hersoption;thespacomplementstheClarinsapproachwith
itsownexotic,orientaltreatments.Theradicaloriental-themedspa,CentroTao(www.centrotao.it)in
LimonesulGarda,isbasedonbalance,yinandyang,Chinesemedicineandorientalspatherapies.Near
Lazise,theHotelPrincipediLazise(www.hotelprincipedilazise.com)offerstheAquavitaespa,with
anarrayoftreatmentsusingtheluxeCultiproducts,andafocuson‘orientalpaths’,inspiredbyayurvedic
medicine.Cappuccini(www.cappuccini.it)isa16th-centuryformermonasteryinFranciacortawith
classicspatreatmentsItalian-style,meaninga“package”includingtoomany(potentiallyclashing)
“cures”atonce.
Despitethedecadentsetting,inSpumante-producingFranciacorta,HenriChenot’srigorousFrench
spaistheantidotetopampering.Thespa’sphilosophyispretentious,butwellintentioned:apotentially
life-changing“cure”toputthesinneronthestraightandnarrow.Thereisonlyoneobstacleinthepathof
theCartesiangrandprojet.SetinthecountrysideaboveLakeIseo,L’Albereta(www.albereta.it)isa
renownedgastro-hotel,withbothanItalianchefandM.Chenot,theFrenchcelebrityspaguru.Itseems
wilfullycruelthatonegurushouldbeprofferinggastrofarewhiletheotherpunishesguestswithstrict
“curesforweightloss,stressandanti-ageing”.Possiblyyinandyang,butdefinitelyveryFrench.
ThesteamingoutdoorpoolatAquaria.
TermediSirmione
Milan’sBestSpas
Bestspaforglamourandprofessionalism:Club10inthePrincipediSavoiaisMilan’sgrandedameof
spas,whereyoucouldswiminarooftoppoolbeforeyourtreatment,andpossiblyspotDonatellaVersace
inherfavouritehotel(www.dorchestercollection.com).
BestspaforJapaneseexpertise:LeTermediKyotoattheEnterpriseHotelwithpanoramicviewsof
Milanthatplacesemphasisoncutting-edgetreatments(www.planetariahotels.com).
Bestspaforstylishshopping:BulgariSpa,onaprivatestreetintheheartoftheshoppingdistrict,is
beautifullydesigned,exclusiveandrenownedforfacials(www.bulgarihotels.com).
LAKEISEO,FRANCIACORTAANDVALCAMONICA
WildLakeIseoisborderedbythecultivatedwinecountryofFranciacortaandisa
steppingstonetoValCamonica,wheretherocksarecarvedwithaccountsofthelivesof
theCamunipeople,thevalley’sprehistoricpopulation.
MainAttractions
SantaMariaDellaNeve
Iseo
FranciacortaWinelands
AbbaziadiSanNicola
FranciacortaOutletVillage
Bienno
ValCamonicaRockCarvings
Parcodell’Adamello
Brescia’sinhabitantsthinkofthelakesasasummerplayground,andasarewardfortheirhardworkin
banking,pharmaceuticalsandthearmstrade.LakeIseo,locatedbetweenBresciaandBergamo,isalso
Bergamo’sbackgarden,representingarestfulweekendescapearoundoneofthelargestlakeislandsin
Europe,calledMonteIsola.Resolutelyuntouristy,LakeIseo’scharmsresideinthepeacefulhamlets
fringedbymountainsandthecosylocalinns.
ValCamonicawinterscene.
GettyImages
FromBrescia,theshorthoptothelakepassesrollingcountryside,wineestatesandmanorhouses.
Thisistheprosperouswine-growingdistrictofFranciacorta,wheregourmetcuisineismatchedbyItaly’s
finestsparklingwines.Itisaplaceofgentlemorainehillsscatteredwithgrandvillas,castlesandparks.
NorthofLakeIseostretchesValCamonica,runningfromtheshoretosnow-cappedTonale,passing
villageswhichhaveworkedstone,woodandironoresinceantiquity.Astheancestralhomeofthe
Camunicivilisation,thevalleyisscoredwithprehistoricrockcarvings,especiallyaroundCapodiPonte,
whichpresentavividaccountofthelivesandbeliefsofthesepeople.
ThetownofPeschieraMaraglioonMonteIsola.
Dreamstime
LakeIseo
BresciaisaperfectsteppingstonetoruralLakeIseo,whichisashortbutscenictrainridetoIseoitself.
Lagod’Iseo,whichmeasures25km(15.5miles)longby5km(3miles)wide,enclosesoneofthelargest
lakeislandsinEurope,andboastswildsceneryonthewesternshore,aswellaswine-growinghillsto
thesouth.Thicklywoodedslopesriseupfromthewaterfront.IseoexperiencesamoreAlpineclimate
thanLakeGarda:olivesandhorsechestnutsflourish,ratherthanlemonsandpalms.Unfairlyneglectedin
favourofthelargerlakes,LakeIseoissweeter,quieterandlessself-consciouslyquaint.Unlikeitsrivals,
thelakeoffersnoheart-stoppingsetpiecesbutcompensateswiththeslowburnofcontemplativewalks
andawayoflifenotwhollybasedontourism.Iseo,thenaturalbaseforexploringthelake,isacharming
unspoilthistorictown,whilethehillsaroundhidesomeoftheregion’sfinestinns.
Sarnico1[map],theBergamogatewaytoLakeIseo,embodiesthelocalattitudethatthisisaliving,
workingcommunityratherthanatouristtrap.Setontheruggedwesternshore,Sarnicooccupiesthesiteof
aprehistoricstiltvillage.Despiteitsdelightfulporticoesandmedievalramparts,Sarnicoisbest-known
asaspeedboatbase,thankstoRiva,acompanywhichproducesthe“Ferrari”ofspeedboats,whichwas
foundedhere.
TavernolaBergamasca2[map]signalsthestartofthewildeststretchofthelake,despitetheblotsof
acementworksandover-quarriedhills.Beyondhere,thedramaticwesternshoreisriddledwithcoves
carvedintolimestonecliffs,andravinesrunningdowntognarledrocks.
AtthenorthernendisLovere,thecapitaloftheBergamosideofthelakeandthestartingpointfor
expeditionsintotheValCamonica.Itisagoodplacetopauseforawalkaroundthemedievalvillageof
Qualino,setonahillsideterracewithgreatpanoramicviewsofthelakeandthelowerCamonicaValley.
TorbieredelSebino.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Romaninofrescoes
TherockcarvingsinValCamonica(formoreinformation,clickhere)arebestreachedviathevalley
roadfromPisogne3[map].ThevillageisfamousforthefrescoedchurchofSantaMariadellaNeve
(ViaAnticaValeriana;Tue–Sun9.30–11.30am,3–6pm;free).Knownasapoorman’sSistineChapel,the
churchisfrescoedbyRomanino(c.1484–1559),acomplexartiststeepedintheVenetianRenaissance
tradition,butinfluencedbyMichelangelo,andaprecursortoCaravaggio.Ondisplayishispowerful
PassionofChristcyclewhich,rareforthetimes,makeslittledistinctionbetweensacredandprofane
subjects,placingthembothonthesamelevel.AsatypicallyBrescianpainter,Romaninoisrenownedfor
hisrealisticportraitsofhiscontemporaries,facesthatcanstillbeseenalloverLakeIseo.These
expressivefrescoesdepictatypicalRomaninoscenepeopledbybulky,peasant-likefigures,typicalofan
artistpraisedas“paintingindialect”.
Romanesquefrescoes,SantaMariadellaNeve,Pisogne.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
The‘PyramidsofZone’
SheerlakesidecliffsframeMarone,wherethereisaturn-offtoCislanoviaMonteMaroneanda
tortuousroutethroughchestnutwoodstoZone4[map].Fromhere,thereareviewsofstrangemushroomshapedpinnaclesofsoftrocktoppedbycomicalboulders.Formedbytheerosionofglacialmoraine
deposits,theseweathered“pyramids”canbeseencloseupbyfollowingthehikingtrailfromZone.
Where
LakeIseoTouristofficeIATLagod’IseoeFranciacorta(LungolagoMarconi2/C,Iseo;tel:
030-3748733;Tue–Fri10am–12.30pm,3–6pm;www.iseolake.info)ishelpful,asisthe
Franciacortawineroute(www.stradadelfranciacorta.it)and,foranoverview,Brescia
tourism(www.bresciatourism.it).
MonteIsola
Tothesouth,andonthelakeside,SaleMarasinoandSulzanoontheeasternshoreoffercrossingsto
MonteIsola5[map],anislandforestedwithchestnuttreesandolivegroves.Enroute,theferrypassesa
tinyprivateislandbelongingtothegun-makingBerettadynasty,whosefearsomereputationisenoughto
detercuriousvisitors;Beretta’sindustrialbaseisintheBrescianhinterland.
TheferryslipsintoMonteIsola,thehighestlakeislandinEurope,andalsothecontinent’slargest
inhabitedlakeisland.Thismountainous,heavilyforestedislandsupportsa1,700-strongcommunityof
fishermen,boatbuildersandnet-makers.Despiteitshumbleorigins,MonteIsola’sfishinghamletsreveal
refinedtouches,fromsculptedportalstotinycourtyards.
AtPeschieraMaraglio,takethegentlewalkfromthejettytoSensole,whichcoversthehamletson
thesunnysideoftheisland,andallowsforviewsofIseoandtheislandofSanPaolo.Above,tiersof
olivegrovesmergeintovineyards,chestnutgrovesandtheoccasionalmedievaltower,withthehighest
peaksurmountedbya16th-centurysanctuary,builtoverapaganshrine.Thelakesidepromenadeislined
withfishrestaurants,thebestplaceforascenicviewofthemountainousterrain.Itishardtoresista
waterfrontinnforgrilledsardines,perchrisottoandlakescampi,washeddownwithalocalwine.
Ontheshore,heapsofhammocksandfishingnetsdryinginthesunaretheonlycluesthatthishasbeen
anet-makingareafor1,000years.CluniacmonksbuiltanindustrywhichnowembracesWimbledon
tennisnetsandWorldCupfootballnets.LookinatRetificioArchitettiPaolo(onthewaterfront),which
sellsserviceablehammocks.
WhynotbuyapicnicandconsiderthehiketotheGothicSantuariodellaMadonnadellaCeriola
(600metres/1,970ft).Itisasteep90-minuteclimbpastolivegrovesandwalnuttrees.Alternatively,the
short(15-minute)routetotheMariansanctuarybeginsfromCure(andcanbereachedbybus).
Fargentler,andmoreinkeepingwithlocaltastes,isthelakesidepromenadearoundtheisland.The
paceoflifeisslow:carsarebannedinfavourofbicycles,mopedsorpublicminibuses(bicyclescanbe
hiredthroughthePeschieratouristoffice).Ifinahurrytoreturntocivilisation,takethefastestferryback
tothemainland,whichconnectsMonteIsolawithSulzano.
ViewoverMarone.
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Iseo
Justsouth,thetownofIseo6[map]canalsobereachedonanattractivetrainjourneyfromBrescia.Now
theelegantlakecapital,Iseowasasignificantportuntilthe1870s,shippinggrainfromValCamonicaand
steelfromtheindustrialdepotsonthelake.Iseoismoreirredeemablybourgeoisandself-assuredthanits
rival,Lovere,ontheBergamobank,atownthelocalsdismissas“provincial”.Sandwichedbetweenthe
waterfrontandafeudalcastle,Iseoretainsitscosymedievalstreetpatternaswellasasweeping
promenadeandhandsomesquares.ThebustlingshopsdisplayasliceoflocallifewithhugeParmesans,
salamisandmoundsoffreshpasta.TheclumsilyremodelledchurchofSant’Andreaboaststhefinest
Romanesquebelltoweronthelake.PorticoedPiazzaGaribaldiistheliveliestpartoftown,dominated
byastatueofthepatriotperchedonamossyrock,oneofthefewhorselessstatuesofhiminexistence.
Thesquare’scafés,particularlyAriston,makeanappealingspotforpeople-watchingandwine-tasting.
Shadedbyplanetrees,thewaterfrontpromenadeisasoporificspotfromwhichtowatchthelaketraffic.
Iseoisnotsimplythemostattractivetownonthewaterfront,butasteppingstonetolakesidebeaches,
includingtheLidodiBelvedere.
Tip
TheTrenoBluisadelightfultrain-bus-boatsummerexcursionfromBergamotoLakeIseo,
thattakesinPalazzoloandParatico,aswellasaferrycrossingtoMonteIsolaonLakeIseo
(someSaturdaysandSundaysinMay,June,September;tel:030-7402851;
www.ferrovieturistiche.it).
PiazzaGaribaldi,Iseo.
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Franciacorta
JustinlandfromLakeIseoisaneatgreenpatchworkofvillas,extensivevineyardsandmonasteriesthat
makesthisLombardy’smostmellowwine-growingarea.IthelpsthatFranciacortaproducesthe
country’smostprestigioussparklingchampagne-stylewines,aworldawayfromsupermarketSpumante.
Thepathtoprosperitywassetbythemedievalmonkswhocolonisedthisoncedesolatecornerin
returnforprivileges.Inthe11thcentury,thenobilitycalledonCluniacmonkstodrainthemarshes,
resultinginabuildingboomandgrandcrenellatedmonasteries.From1277,taxconcessionscausedthe
areatobeknownasCorteFranca(“freecourt”)andspurredpatricianfamiliesfromBresciaandbeyond
tobuildcastlesintheselowhills.DuringtheRenaissance,thesecastleswereconvertedintopatrician
villasandnoblewineestates.Ambitiousrestaurateursandwine-makershavesincemovedin,making
Franciacortathesought-afterruralretreatforbonsvivantsitistoday.
TheFranciacortawinedistrict.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
FranciacortaWineTrail
Theblendofsuperbwinesandharmoniouslandscapefindsfavourwithfoodiesandwinebuffsalike,
makingFranciacortaasought-afterspotforalostweekend.
Thisprestigiouswine-growingregionproducessparklingchampagne-stylesignaturewines,whicharesubjecttoaslowfermentation
process.KnownasFranciacortaDOCG,thewinesrunfromPasDosé(exceptionallydry)toBrut(classicdry),Sec(dry)andDemi-Sec
(dessertwine).
Giventheconnectionbetweenwineandwealth,therollingcountrysideisdottedwithwineestatesspillingoutofcastles,villasandmanor
houses.Whilesomeestateshaveattachedwinemuseums,sophisticatedinnsorsimplefarm-stays,virtuallyallproducersofferwinetasting.(Bookdirectly,orthroughtheStradadelFranciacortaassociation;www.stradadelfranciacorta.it;tel:030-7760477.)Thiswelldevelopedwinerouteproposestoursaswellasahandywinemap.Giventhenumberofsuperbestatesandthedesirabilityofbooking,the
followingisonlyatasterofthemostemblematicestates.
Wineestates
UnassumingErbuscoliesatthecentreofthewinedistrict.Bellavista(tel:030-7762000;www.bellavistawine.it)isahighlyratedestate
ofBrescianmagnateVittorioMoretti,nowpresidentoftheFranciacortaConsortium.YoucanalsobrowseFranciacortawinesinthe
village’sCantinediFranciacortawineshop(ViaIseo98;tel:030-7751116),whichalsosellslocalhoney,cheesesandsalami.
InneighbouringAdro,theContadiCastaldiestate(tel:030-7450126;www.contadicastaldi.it)inaformerbrickworksisnotedfor
sparklingSatenBrut,madefromChardonnaywithadashofPinotBianco.Nearby,theRicciCurbastroestateinCapriola(tel:030-736
094;www.riccicurbastro.it)offerstastingsandatourofthewinemuseum,aswellasanantiqueshopinitsfarm-stay.NearCorte
Franca,BaronePizzini(tel:030-9848311;www.baronepizzini.it)isFranciacorta’sfirstfullyorganicestate,inacastlewithasmall
museum,tastingroomsandrestaurant.InBorgonato,justoverthehill,FratelliBerlucchi(tel:030-984381;www.berlucchi.com)isone
ofthebest-knownproducers,ownedbyfivebrothers.InMonticelliBrusati,furthereast,theVillaestate(tel:030-652329;www.villa-
franciacorta.it)occupiesitsownhamlet,with16th-centurycellars,arusticinnandfarm-stayapartments.InneighbouringCamignonedi
Passirano,IlMosnel(tel:030-653117;www.ilmosnel.com)isawelcomingfamily-runestaterunbythedynamicGiulioBarzano.A
wine-tastingcanbefollowedbylunchchosentocomplementthewines.
IfvisitingOme,besuretotryAziendaAgricolaAlRocol(ViaProvinciale79,tel:030-6852542;www.alrocol.com),arusticinnona
family-runaward-winningwineestateandfarm.Inautumnandwinterordertraditionalspitwithpolentaeosei,washeddownbyaglass
oftheexcellentlocalGrappaChardonnay(FranciacortaDOCG).AlsoinOme,stopbytheMajoliniwinery(ViaManzoni3,tel:030-652
7378;www.majolini.it)runbythesamefamilysincethe15thcenturyandproducingexcellentBrutandDemi-SecFranciacortaDOCG
wines.
Monasteriesandwineestates
ForemostamongthemonkswhodrainedthelandsweretheCluniacbrothersfromtheMonasterodiSan
Pietro7[map](ViaMonastero5;tel:030-9823617;Sat–SunApr–Oct10am–noon,3–6pm,Nov–Mar
10am–noon,2–5pm).BuiltoveraRomantempleandenvelopedbymoodymarshesclosetoLakeIseo,the
monasterystillfeelsaloof,butexudesagentlecharm,fromtheRomanesquebelltowertothetiny
cloistersandschoolofRomaninofrescoes.(AnoddityofFranciacortaisthat,whileyoucanrisksimply
turningup,allplacespreferbooking,evenchurches;detailsavailableonwww.stradadelfranciacorta.it.)
AtthefootofthemonasteryisthenaturereserveofTorbieredelSebino8[map](alwaysopen).This
isbirdwatchingterritory,aswellasbeingthewaterypreserveofperch,troutandeel,andhometohappy
predatorsfromheronstokingfishers.Pathswindthroughthepeatbogs,providingsightingsofwhite
swansglidingbetweenthewaterlilies,ortheswoopofamarshfalconontoitsvictiminaclumpofferns.
Tip
ToseefrescoesbyRomanino(1484–c.1559),theregion’sfinestRenaissancepainter,visitthe
churchesofSantaMariadellaNeveinPisogne,SantaMariainBienno,Sant’Antonioin
Breno,aswellastheabbaziadiSanNicolainRodengo-SaianoandBrescia’sbestgallery,the
PinacotecaMartinengo(closedforrestorationbutsomeofitsworksarebeinghostedbythe
MuseodiSantaGiulia).
MonasterodiSanPietro.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Provagliod’Iseo,oncepartoftheCluniacestates,leadstoMonticelliBrusati9[map],where
vineyardsstretchforasfarastheeyecansee.ThisisthedelectablesettingfortheVillawineestate
(FrazioneVilla;tel:030-652329;www.villa-franciacorta.it),completewithwinetoursanda
welcomingrusticinn.
Culture-loversshouldcallinatRodengo-SaianotoseetherestoredAbbaziadiSanNicola)[map]
(ViaBrescia;tel:030-610182;Mon–Sat9am–noon,3–6pm,Sunfrom12.30pm).Foundedbythe
Cisterciansinthe10thcentury,butlaterOlivetan,thisisoneofthemostimpressivemonastic
complexesinnorthernItaly.Theabbeydisplays15th-and16th-centuryfrescoesbythegreatestBrescian
artists,includingRomaninoandMoretto.Themonksstillresidehereand,intraditionalmonasticstyle,
restoreantiquarianbooksandmanuscriptsaswellasconcoctingliqueurs,suchasSambuca,whichyou
canbuy.FashionablevisitorswillalsoenjoythedesignerboutiquesatdiscountedpricesinFranciacorta
OutletVillage(www.franciacortaoutlet.it).
PassiranoisdominatedbyFranciacorta’smoststrikingcrenellatedcastle,whichconcealsa
Renaissancevillaandwineestate.AnothercrenellatedcastleandRenaissancevillaawaitsatCastellodi
Bornato![map](ViaCastello4,Bornato;www.castellodibornato.com;mid-Mar–mid-NovSun10am–
noon,2.30–6pm).TheItalianategardensopenontotheestatevineyards,providingapretextforanother
wine-tasting.Initspreviousincarnationasamedievalcastle,BornatooncewelcomedDante,butthe
poet’sviewsondivineFranciacortawinesareunrecorded.
Tip
Thesearethebestsourcesofinformationon:ValCamonicarockart(
www.vallecamonicaunesco.it);Adamellopark(www.parcoadamello.it);summersportsand
skiing(www.adamelloski.com);andtheFranciacortawineroute(www.franciacorta.net).
Foranoverview,Bresciatourism(www.bresciatourism.it)remainsthemostuseful.
ValCamonica.
Dreamstime
Rovato
Rovato@[map],Franciacorta’smaincentre,lacksthecharmofthewinehamletsbuthasanimpressive
Serviteconvent.ClearyourheadbywalkingupMonteOrfanoforsweepingviewsfromthehilltopanda
visittoSant’Annunziata(tel:030-7721377;daily9am–noon,3–6pm),whichdisplaysafine
AnnunciationbytheRenaissancemasterRomanino(formoreinformation,clickhere).
Backamongthevineyards,Erbusco£[map],thewine-productioncentre,isbothearthyandelegant,
muchlikesparklingFranciacortaitself.DespitetheRomanesquechurchofSantaMariaAssuntaandthe
PalladianVillaLechi,ErbuscoisindeliblyassociatedwithL’Albereta,thelovelyvilla-hoteland
gastro-haunt.IngourmetFranciacorta,conventsinevitablyloseouttofeasting.
Yetthegoodlifealsoprovedattractivetoworldlyprelates.ThevillageofBorgonato$[map],near
CorteFranca,evenbecamethesummerresidenceofthehigh-bornsistersfromBrescia’sSantaGiulia
nunnery.Today,Borgonatoisbetter-knownasthehomeofFratelliBerlucchi(ViaBroletto;tel:030-984
381;www.berlucchi.it;daily;guidedtoursinEnglishat2pm),arenownedwineestate,slightlybelittled
locallyasbeing“tooindustrial”.NeighbouringNigolineoffersanescapefromwineintheformofthe
FranciacortaGolfClub(tel:030-984167;www.franciacortagolfclub.it)which,unlikemostclubsinthe
locality,acceptsnon-members.
Adroisbristlingwithchurches,butthenotedContadiCastaldiwineestate(formoreinformation,
clickhere)isalsoworthvisiting.Capriolo,namedafterthedeerwhichonceroamedhere,isnearthe
lake.ConsiderroamingaroundtheRicciCurbastrowineestateandmuseumlocatednearby(formore
information,clickhere).
Fish-loversshouldtimeanyFranciacortaoutingtofinishwithsupperinClusane%[map],afoodie
haunt,knownforitsbakedtench.Crownedbyanabandonedcastle,Clusaneoverlooksaportfullof
bobbingboatssettingoutinsearchoffishincludingtench,pike,chubandlakesardines.Ifthisallsounds
toofishyforyourtastes,headforthehillsoverlookingthelake,whichofferaromantic,ruralsetting–and
asparklingmineralwater.
ValCamonica
Unpolished,underratedValCamonicaisoneoftheleastexploredbutmostrewardingstretchesof
Lombardy.Traditionally,theregionwasknownforitswitchcraft.In1510,hundredsof“witches”were
burnedatthestake,accusedof“copulatingwiththeDevil”.Burningwitchesturnedouttobeabusiness,
astheirchattelswereconfiscatedbytheChurch.Morerecent“sightings”ofwitchesonbroomsticksat
PassoTonalecouldbelinkedtothelocalgrappa!
Fact
Therosacamuna,theCamunianrose,isthesymbolofLombardyandfoundalloverVal
Camonicarockart.Althoughoneoftheoldestrepresentationsoftheroseeverfound,its
meaningisenigmatic;itislikelytorefertoasolarsymbolorawarrior-likeauraofinvincibility
thantoideasofsacrifice,loveandeternity.
ContemporaryartatAccademiaTadini.
SuperStock
Today,theregion’sbewitchingappealliesinitscomplexmixofprehistoricrockart,frescoed
Romanesquechurches,ruralfarm-staysandindustrialarchaeology.That’swithoutmentioningskiing,
hikingandtheswathesofwildernessandmajesticAlpinescenery.Thewelcomemaybeabitbrusque,but
that’sthenatureofavalleyonlyslowlycomingtotermswithtourism.
TheLowerValley,centredonBoarioTerme,benefitsfromitsclosenesstoLakeIseo,whiletheUpper
Valleydrawsthecrowdstoitsskislopes.TheMiddleValley,centredonCapodiPonte,hasyettoreap
therewardsoftourism,despiteitsmagnificentrockart.TowardsLakeIseo,theviewshavebeen
disfiguredbyadisregardfortheenvironment.Greenawarenessiscatchingonbut,giventhevalley’s
industrialbentsincetheBronzeAge,metalworkingandlightengineeringareintheblood.Evenso,
Loverehasturneditsbackonheavyindustry,whilevillagessuchasBiennomanagetocombinesleepy
medievalcharmandarichindustrialheritage.
Lovere
ThelakesidetownofLovere^[map]isthesteppingstonetoValCamonica,thevalleynorthofthelake,
buthasarewardingRenaissancecentreofitsown,thankstothelegacyofVenetianrule.Thetown’s
transitionfromtextilesandsteeltotourismisnotquiteseamless,eventhoughvisitingboatsbobonthe
marinaandtheappealinghistoricheartiswellrestored.ThemostimpressivechurchisSantaMariain
Valvendra,withitsmajesticBaroqueinteriorandRenaissanceartwork.Onthelakefrontistheeclectic
artcollectionofAccademiaTadini(ViaTadini40;tel:035-962780;www.accademiatadini.it;May–
SeptTue–Sat3–7pm,Sun10am–noon,3–7pm,Apr,OctSat3–7pm,Sun10am–noon,3–7pm).Count
Tadini,alocalbenefactor,lefthiscollectiontothecityin1828afterpartofhispalacecollapsed,killing
hissonandheir.Apartfromaswatheofmadonnas,includingonebyBellini,thepleasureofthepalace
liesinthequirkinessofthefounder’spersonaltastes.
StoneAgethemepark
Darfo-BoarioTerme&[map],anuninspiringspatownandtheproducerofFerrarellemineralwater,has
yetfullytoembracetourism.JustoutsidetownisArcheopark(Gattaro;tel:0364-529552;Mar–Nov
daily9am–5.30pm;www.archeopark.net),anentertainingStoneAgethemepark.Wide-eyedchildrencan
experiencetheCamunicivilisationof10,000yearsago,samplinglifeinrocksheltersorstiltvillages.
Aftertheyhavetriedcorn-grindinginthestiltvillageandtendingtothesmellywildboar,thereisrowing
inStoneAge-styleflat-bottomedboatsonthereedylake.
IntheneighbouringhamletofMontecchiostandsthePonteRomano,the“Roman”bridge,anearly
medievaltoll-bridge.BesideitistheparishchurchandtheChiesettadell’Oratorio,coveredbyvivid
frescoesattributedtoPietrodaCemmo,thegreatest15th-centurypainterfromValCamonica.
Bienno
PraisedasoneoftheprettiestvillagesinItaly,Bienno*[map]hasforgeditsidentityoutofmetaland
water.BenedictinemonkswereresponsibleforchannellingtheriverintotheVasoRecanal,which
poweredthemillsandfoundries.Thewater-mills,introducedbythemonksinthe10thcentury,functioned
untilthe1960s,whileforgesandfoundrieshavebeeninoperationheresinceantiquity.PrehistoricVal
Camonicarockcarvingsdepictblacksmithsandanarrayofmetalobjects,fromspadestodaggers,a
reminderofthevalley’svocationformetalworking.Berettahandgunsandhuntinggunscontinuetobe
producedinaneighbouringvalley.Today,severalofthe60originalfoundriesstillexist,evenifthe150
watermillshaveshrunktoonefunctioningflourmill.YoucancallintoIlMulino,offPiazzaRoma,tosee
aworkingflourmill,beforestrollingalongmedievalalleys,pasttowerhousesandmansionswith
balconiestrailinggeraniums.
TheBaroqueparishchurchofSantiFaustinaeGiovita,onviaSanBenedetto,incorporatesa
medievaltower,whiletheGothicchurchofSantaMaria,onPiazzaSantaMaria,isfrescoedby
RenaissanceartistsofthestatureofRomaninoanddaCemmo.LaMuseoFucina(ViaArtigiani;tel:
0364-300307;Tue–Sun9.30–11.30am,2.30–4.30pm)isagentleintroductiontoBienno’sindustrial
heritage.Withitssoot-blackenedwalls,theevocativefoundrydisplaysoneoftheoriginalwater-driven
forges:awaterwheelpowersthemallettostriketheanvilandworkthemoltenmetal;smallerforges
refashionedthemetalintothepots,bucketsandtoolswhichmadeBienno’sname.
Cerveno([map],halfwayupthevalley,demandsattentionfortheSantuariodiViaCrucis,which
displaysLombardy’smostmemorable18th-centurywoodcarvings.ThedistinctlykitschStationsofthe
Crosspresent200life-sizestatues,whichevokethePassionwiththefamiliarrefreshingrealismthat
typifiesValCamonicaart.
FrescoinSantaMaria,Bienno.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Therockcarvings
Nadro,[map]isanintriguinghamlet,builtaroundamedievaltowerinahoneycombofalleysoverlyinga
prehistoricsettlement.ThecompactRiservaRegionaledelleIncisioniRupestri(RegionalReserveof
RockArt;LocalitàNadro;tel:0364-433465;Mar–Octdaily9am–5.30pm,Nov–Feb9am–4pm)isa
preludetoexploringthesuperbrockcarvings,theprehistoriccomicstripsandthematchstickmenknown
aspitoti(puppets),thathavebeendrawnontheserocksforthousandsofyears.Themagicofthe
landscapesurvives,enhancedbythemysterioussymbolismoftherockart.Althoughclearlyasacred
place,thesitehasnograves,sothesuppositionisthatbodieswerecrematedandashesscattered.
ValCamonicarockcarvings.
SuperStock
ReadingRockArt
“Rockarthasbeendescribedbefore,butithasneverbeenread,”declaredatriumphantItalian
archaeologistrecently,surveyingasitewhichhasobsessedhimfor50years.
EmmanuelAnati,theworld’sleadingauthorityontheValCamonicasite,believesthattheprehistoricrockengravingsarenotjust
artworksbutanearlyformofwriting.“Theturningpointwastoconsidertherocksasmessages–messages,whicharelegibletenor
fifteenthousandyearsaftertheywerewritten.”ProfessorAnati(b.1930),anItalianarchaeologistofinternationalrenown,wasthefirst
torecognisethescaleandrichnessofValCamonicainthe1950s.Havingcompiledachronologicalframeworkofthesite’srockcarvings,
in1961hewroteCamonicaValley,aground-breakingstudyofValCamonicaandin1964establishedtheCentroCamunodiStudi
PreistoriciinCapodiPonte(www.ccsp.it)withtheaimtostudyprehistoricart.ThecentrehasalsofoundedtheWorldArchiveofRock
ArtandwasinstrumentalinhavingValCamonicainscribedonUnesco’sWorldHeritagelistin1971.
Atonceruralandindustrial,ValCamonica,northofLakeIseo,hasbeeninhabitedsincetheNeolithicera,whentheCamunitribal
civilisationfirstetcheditselfintoexistence.Forgenerations,thesehuntersandfarmersrecordedeverydaylifeandtheirrelationshipwith
theotherworld.Asatribalrecordofacivilisation,thevalleyoffersaspanofcreativitystretchingfromStoneAgeculturewellinto
Romantimes,whentheCamuni,huntersratherthanwarriors,wereeasilycrushedandassimilatedbytheRomanimperialists.
Dubbed“stickmen”bymodernvalleypeople,theprimitivecarvingsofpeopleandshamanshavealwayshadresonancelocally.Therock
carvingsdatebackto6000BC,withtheearliestimagesfeaturingrudimentaryanimalfiguresinstaticposes,usuallydeerandelk,which
representedlocaldeities.MoresophisticatednarrativeartemergedduringtheBronzeandIronAges,whiletheEtruscans,Romansand
Christianscontinuedintheirancestors’footsteps:thepracticewasabandonedinthelateMiddleAges.Whiletherehasalwaysbeen
respectfortheartinmoderntimes,ancientgraffitiartistsfeltlittlecompunctionabouterasingorembroideringtheirpredecessors’work.
Decipheringtherocks
Archaeologistsbegantoworkoutthe“grammar”ofthisproto-writingsystemusingtheconceptsofpictograms,ideogramsand
psychograms.Pictogramsarepicturesresemblingwhattheysignify,ideogramsrepresentconcepts,whilepsychogramssymbolise
psychologicalmaps.Bydecipheringanumberofrocks,Anatihasmoresenseofthemessagesbeingconveyed:“Aftermanagingto
decipheranIronAgerock,weconcludedthatthemajorityoftheinscriptionsrefertomythologicalaccountsandinformationabout
initiationrites.”heexplained.
Thedecipheringisongoing,buttheinitialfindingstapintoadaringthesis:thatthereareuniversalthemesinworldprehistoricrockart:sex,
hunting,foodandtheterritorialimperative.Theboldestconclusionisalsothemostmundane:thatprehistoricpeoplesresembledeach
other;andourprehistoricancestorsweremuchthesameasus.
FoppediNadro
JustbehindthemuseumistheshorttrailtotheprehistoricrockartofFoppediNadro(daily9am–6pm).It
isbesttovisitinthemorning,whenthelightisclearer,orinthelateafternoon,whenthelightisatits
mostmysterious.Themaintrailrevealsaround50rocks,whichfocusonStoneAgetoIronAgeart,with
clearEtruscaninfluences.Evenifthecarvingsspan6,000years,runningfromtheStoneAgetomedieval
times,itistheprehistoricscenesthatcaptivate,blendingmythologywiththemundane.
FoppediNadrolooksmuchasitdidinprehistorictimes:acrestofahill,gentleterraces,wooded
slopes,smoothrocks,megalithicwallsandtheremainsofaprehistoricfortifiedvillage.OnlytheIron
Agehomesteadisareconstruction.TheCamuniwerehunter-gatherers,thenfarmers,whosettledamid
thesechestnutgroves,livedinprimitivefarmsteadsandcultivatedtheircrops,respectingtherhythmsof
theseasons,studyingthemovementofthestarsandworshippingthesunandanimaldeities.
Rock1celebratesthesuncultwithprayers,whileRocks4,22and23attesttolocalmetalworking
skillswiththedepictionsofdaggers,axesandhalberds.Rock27,whichstandsoutforitssizeand
imposingsetting,isinscribedwithNeolithic,BronzeandIronAgescenes,runningfromStoneAge
shamansandwingedidolstoIronAgeduels,bywayofEtruscanscriptandsymbols.InscriptionsinLatin
andinNorthernEtruscanappearmixedwithscenesoffarming,huntinganddailylifeonRocks1,5,6,24
and27.ButEmmanuelAnati,thegreatestlivingrockartexpert,positsthetheoryofoursharedlinguistic
roots,speculatingthatearlyHomosapiensmayhaveshareda“primordialmotherlanguagefromwhich
allthespokenlanguagesdeveloped”.
Shop
KnownasMostraMercato,summerfestivitiesinthevalleyarelinkedtocraftmarkets,
musicandtorchlitprocessionsinBienno,aswellasinPisogneandPescarzonearCapodi
Ponte.
Detailofrockcarving,CapodiPonte.
FototecaENIT
NaquaneRockArtNationalPark
CapodiPonteisthegatewaytothegreatestrockartbuthaslittleofintrinsicinterestotherthanSanSiro
,astrikingRomanesquechurchinthehamletofCemmo.
TheprehistoricrockcarvingsovertheOglioRiverintheParcoArchelogicoNazionaledelle
IncisioniRupestridiNaquane⁄[map](PrehistoricRockArtofNaquaneNationalPark,LocalitàNaquane,
CapodiPonte;tel:0364-42140;daily8.30am–1.30pm;www.parcoincisioni.capodiponte.beniculturali.it
)makeupforanydisappointment.Inthisnationalpark,alsoItaly’sfirstUnescoWorldHeritageSite,over
300,000rockcarvingsareetchedontoglacier-searedsandstoneinanareacovering8km(5miles).Given
thebewilderingarray,focusontheimpressivebouldersneartheentranceofthearchaeologicalpark.
BigRock1remainsthemostimportantsurfaceinthevalley,andisengravedwithover1,000
drawings,whichrunfromtheNeolithiceratotheIronAge.Itisacavalcadeofwarriors,women,
shamansandriderswrappedupindeer-hunting,weaving,warmongering,initiationritesandappeasing
thegods.Thisrockishumorouslyentitled:“whenfoodisalsoagod”,referringtothedualroleofthe
deerassacredsymbolandvenisonsnack.Nearby,the“horsemenoftherocks”isacommonstatus
symbol.Butifcivilisationisaboutprogress,thenlookatRock23,withitsfour-wheeledwagon–a
precursortothecar,orRock35,whichdepictsablacksmithinhissmithy,forgingthedefinitionofIron
Ageman,andpropellingthevalleytowardstheindustrialvocationthatsustainsittoday.
Despitehugeadvancesindecipheringtherocks,someremainamystery.Rock32wasprobably
selectedforitssoft,femininecontours.Onthesesmoothsurfaces,propitiatoryritesmergeintoploughing
scenes,warfareandweaponry,allintercutwithsymbolsoflabyrinths,whichmayrepresentthepassage
fromthislifetothenext.Hunting,praying,dancing,copulating,invokingthegods,indulginginsacrificial
rites–allhumanlifeishere,butthekeyisstilllostsomewhereinthesewildchestnutgroves.
Althoughthisopen-airmuseumislinkedbywalkways,withnumberedrocksandexplanatorypanels
inEnglish,aguideisstilldesirabletodecipherafewofthemysteries.
ParcoArcheologicoNazionaledelleIncisioniRupestridiNaquane.
FototecaENIT
ExploringtheUpperValley
Edolo¤[map],themaintownintheUpperValley,isnotableforthechurchofSanGiovanniBattista,a
RenaissancechurchfrescoedbyremarkableRenaissanceimagesdepictingAdamandEveandthelifeof
StJohntheBaptist.
Temù‹[map],aslightlysombregrey-stonevillagesurroundedbyforest,ishometotheMuseodella
GuerraBianca(WorldWarIMuseum;ViaRoma40;July–AugMon–Sat3–7pm,Sun10am–12.30pm,
Sept–OctSat3–6pm,Sun10am–12.30pm,restoftheyeartimesvary).In1914,Europe’slargestglacier
becameabattleground,thefirstconflicttobefoughtatsuchaltitudes.Onthisforgottenfront,theicy
“WhiteWar”waswagedinsnowfieldsandglaciersabove3,000metres(10,000ft),andcostthelivesof
severalthousandItalianandAustriansoldiers.Themodestmuseumstillhitshomewithitsmachineguns,
medals,sleighs,helmets,uniforms,flagsandphotos,allfoundaroundtheglacier.Simplydraggingone
cannonupthemountaininconditionsof-30°C(-22°F)cost100Italianlives.Today,keenhikerscan
explorethebattlefieldsandinspecttheartillerypositionsandtrenches,includingthesecretItalian“ice
tunnel”,a5km(3-mile)passagewaythatwaslitbyelectricity.
Tip
Siberianhusky-trekkingisavailable,winterorsummer,inPontediLegno(ScuolaItaliana
Sleddog;www.scuolaitalianasleddog.it),whereyoucanlearnhowtoleadthepackonwild
trailsintheAdamello-BrentaandStelvionationalparks.
PontediLegno.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
PontediLegno
VillaDalegno,anold-fashionedhamletoutsidePontediLegno,issignificantonlyfortheAgriturismo
Belotti,theplaceforaheartyrusticsupperorovernightstay.PontediLegno›[map]itself,perchedona
sunnyplateau,makesthemostcharmingbaseforexploringtheUpperCamonicaValley.Withitsquaint
woodenbridge,geranium-hungbalconies,ornateparishchurchandAlpinechalets,itresemblesa
Tyroleanvillage.Whileplottingalongwalk,retreattoLaRasega(viaIVNovembre74),acosywinebar
inaconvertedsawmilloverlookingtheriverOglio,whichfeedsLakeIseo.DineintheSanMarco,the
valley’sfinestrestaurant.Eveninsummer,thisisalivelyresort,popularwiththeMilanese,whocombine
hikingwithpolentadishesinruralinns.Inwinter,thisisaskiarealinkingintoTonaleviascenicruns
throughthetrees,andisfarprettierthanitsTrentinocounterpart.
CasediViso
ThescenichamletofCasediVisofi[map]tothenorthisarguablytheloveliestspotintheUpperValley.
Thestone-cladshepherds’hutshavebeenturnedintosummerhomes,oftenbytheformershepherds
themselves.Inwinter,thedevotedownersreturnonskisorsnowshoes,drawnbytheprospectofpolenta
andcheeserustledupinacosycabin.Insummer,thesweepingAlpinevalleyviewscanbeappreciated
onatwo-hourtrailtoRifugioBozzi(tel:0364-900152),amountainhutopenforrusticlunches,andthe
baseforhikestoAlpinelakes,militaryoutpostsandtheruinsofWorldWarIforts.
ThevillageofTonale.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Parcodell’Adamelloabovetheclouds.
GettyImages
Adamellopark
Parcodell’Adamellofl[map],whichembracesPontediLegnoandTonale,isawildernessareaitself
stretchingfromLombardyintoTrentino,andformspartofthelargestprotectedareainEurope.The
Adamelloparkclimbsto3,500metres(11,500ft),passingfromreed-bedsandprehistoricterracesto
woodsofchestnut,mountainmapleandfir,whichgraduallyloseouttolarchgroves,Alpinelakes,
meadows,glaciersandthecraggypeaks.
TheAdamelloappealstosportytypes,withsummermountainbikingandhorseridinggivingwayas
thesnowsfalltohusky-trekking,snowshoeingandskiing(www.adamelloski.com).Forinformationon
farm-stays,hikingroutes,mountainbiketrailsandwildlife,callintotheCasadelParco(ViaNazionale
132,Vezzad’Oglio;tel:0364-76165;www.parcoadamello.it).
LoftyTonale‡[map]markstheendofthevalley,andislitteredwithAustrianandWorldWarI
fortifications.Thetrenchesandtumbledownfortscanbevisitedonsummertrails,butonlymountainbike
fanschoosetostaythere.Itisinwinterwhentreeless,charmlessTonalecomesintoitsownasapopular
skiresort.DaredevilsascendtothePresenaglacier,hometoyear-roundskiing,whiletherestoptfor
thewintryslopesofPontediLegno,TonaleandTemù,whichmakeoneseamlessskiarea,linkedbya
cablecar.BeyondisPassodiTonale,thewindsweptTonalePass,whichsurveystheLombardy–
Trentinoborder.AnylowspiritsaresoondispelledbyanAlpineinnservingmoundsofpolentaoozing
cheese.
BERGAMO
Therearetwodistinctpartstothecity–theCittàAlta(theuppercity),withitsformidable
citywalls,andtheCittàBassa(thelowercity),thewiderareabelow.ThebeautifulPiazza
VecchiaandsomeexquisitechurchesarewithinthegatesoftheCittàAlta.
MainAttractions
AccademiaCarraraCollection
SanVigilio
ViaColleoni
PiazzaVecchia
CappellaColleoni
BasilicadiSantaMariaMaggiore
RotondadiSanTomé
ValleBrembana
Crespid’Adda
Thecombinationofcobbledstreets,cypress-cladhillsandmountainairmakethepicturesquetownof
Bergamo1[map]arefreshingdiversion.InhabitedbytheLiguriansaround1200BC,fortifiedbythe
Etruscansin600BCandnamedBergHem(MountainDwelling)bytheincomingCeltssome50years
later,Bergamohasalongandillustriouspedigreeinvolvingallthepowersthatsweptthroughtheregion.
Therearetwodistinctpartstothecity.Atthecentre,ontheclifftop,istheCittàAlta(uppercity),theold
city,reachedbywindingroadorfunicular.TheCittàBassa(lowercity)isthemuchlargerareadown
below.Withoneortwonotableexceptions,allthetouristsightsandmostofthebestrestaurantsareinthe
CittàAlta.
TheColleoniChapel
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
TheCittàBassa
Althoughithadburstthroughitswallsbeforethen,withtheconstructionofthesuburbs(borgos),
Bergamobegantosprawlacrosstheplainwiththecomingoftherailwayin1857.Theroadlinkingthe
stationtothecitysplititsnamebetweentwolocalheroes,henceVialePapaGiovanniXXIIIandViale
VittorioEmanueleII.Inthe1920s,aRomanarchitect,MarcelloPiancentini,wonthecompetitionto
designthegrandbuildingswhichprocessacrosstheplain,holdingoffices,banksandotherinstitutions.In
PiazzaMatteotti,itpassesaMonumentoallaResistenza(MonumenttotheResistance)byGiacomo
Manzù(1977),theTeatroDonizettiandDonizettimonument,builtbyFrancescoJeracein1897to
markthecentenaryofthecomposer’sbirth.
ViewdownovertheCittàBassa.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Theonlystarattractioninthelowercityisthefabulousartgallery,theAccademiaCarraraA[map]
(PiazzaCarrara82;tel:035-234390;Tue–Sun10am–7pm,insummerFriuntilmidnight;
www.lacarrara.it)intheBorgoSantaCaterina.Itwasfoundedasanartschoolin1796byCount
GiacomoCarrara,whosecollectionsformedthecoreofwhathasbecomeoneofItaly’smostimportant
galleries.In2015,thegalleryreopenedafteraseven-yearrenovation.Its1,800paintingsarenow
arrangedinseveralthemedtrails.HighlightsincludeworksbyRaphael,Botticelli,Titian,Mantegna,
LottoandPisanello.
Acrosstheroad,a16th-centuryconventhousestheGalleriad’ArteModernaeContemporaneaB
[map](ViaS.Tomaso53;Tue–Sun9am–1pm,3–6pm;www.gamec.it;free),coveringworksfromthe
20thcenturyonwards,withasmallpermanentcollectionwithworksbySutherlandandKandinskyand
regulartemporaryexhibitions.
Tip
GettingtoBergamoisexceptionallyeasyfrom“Milan”OrioAlSerioAirport(tel:035-326
323;www.orioaeroporto.it).Itisonly5km(3miles)fromthecity,withexcellentrailand
motorwayconnections.
TheCittàAlta
Therearestillonlyfivegatesthroughtheformidable,almostperfectlypreservedCityWallsoftheupper
city(plustheholeblastedthroughthemforthefunicular,whichrunsfromnearthePiazzettaSanGiacomo
inthelowertown;tel:035-236026).
ThefirstwallswereprobablyEtruscanandtherewereRomanandmedievalversions,butthe
elaboratefortressthatsurroundsthecitywastheworkoftheVenetians,whoselionlazesabovethegates.
Theyraisedthebarricadesin1561–88,destroyingafewhundredhomesandseveralchurchesinthe
process.Thewallsaredesignedsothatnopartofthemisoutofsightofthedefendersandthereis
overlappingfirepoweratallpoints,whileundergroundtunnelsallowsoldierstorunsafelybetweenthe
bastions.FreeguidedtoursoftheUndergroundLevelsbyleNottoleCavingGroupareavailablein
summer(groupsonly;tel:333-2588551;June–Sept).
StrollingthroughtheCittàAlta.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Extra-muralactivities
TheroaduptotheOldCityloopsthroughthePortaSanAgostinoalongthesouthernlineofthewall.
ThereisparkingjustinsidethePortaSanAlessandro,intheLargoColleAperto(wherethebusstops)
andinthePiazzaCittadella.
BeforeplungingintotheheartoftheOldCity,takesometimetoadmireitfromtheoutside.Ontheleft,
LargoColleApertoloopsaroundtotheOrtoBotanicoLorenzoRotaC[map](ScalettaColleAperto;
tel:035-286060;Mar–Octdaily10am–noonandMar,Oct2–5pm,Apr,Septuntil6pm,May,July,Aug
until7pm,Juneuntil8pm;free),afinebotanicalgardentuckedintotheramparts,withgreatviewsfrom
thebattlements.
Next,itispossibletotakeatripuptoSanVigilioD[map].Asecondfunicular,justoutsidePortaSan
Alessandro,whisksyouuptothetopofthehillfromwheretheOldCityislaidoutlikeamap.Thebest
viewsarefromtheruinedCastellodiSanVigilio(tel:035-236284;dailyApr–Oct7am–9pm,Nov–Mar
8am–5pm),whiletheBarettodiSanVigilioisoneofthecity’sbestrestaurants.Theenergeticcantakethe
stepsdowntheViadelloScorlazzonebacktotheCittàAlta.
Eat
Bergamopridesitselfonitsgastronomy,andthereareseveralgoodrestaurants,delicatessens
andbakeriesshowcasingthedelicacies.Thelocalpassionforgame-birdsisalsoreflectedin
thesweetspecialityofpolentaeosei,whereconfectionerybabybirdspeepoutofpolenta
pies.
Alternatively,goondowntheLargodiPortaSanAlessandrotothefairlyhumbleCasaNataledi
DonizettiE[map](ViaBorgoCanale14;tel:035-244483;Sat–Sun10am–1pm,3–6pmorphoneforan
appointment;free),wherethegreatoperaticcomposerwasbornin1797,itsroomsarrangedasthey
wouldhavebeenwhenhelivedthere.Roundthecorner,onviadegliOrti,localartist,PaoloVincenzo
Bonomini(1756–1839)decoratedthechurchofSantaGratainterVites(1591)withagraphic
collectionofDanceofDeathfrescoes.
Where
Bergamotouristoffices
UrbanCenter,VialePapaGiovanniXXIII57,CittàBassa;tel.035-210204.Mon–Fri9am–
12.30pm,2–5.30pm,Sat–Sun9am–5.30pm
ViaGombito13,CittàAlta;tel:035-242226.Daily9am–5.30pm
Airport,arrivalsterminal;tel:035-320402.Daily8am–9pm
www.visitbergamo.net
Theheartofthecity
BackinPiazzaCittadella,theratherdourcomplexoftheCittadellaF[map],onceaViscontifortress,
houseslocalgovernmentofficesaswellastwomuseums–theMuseoCivicoArcheologicoeMuseodi
ScienzeNaturali(bothmuseums,PiazzaCittadella;tel:035-286070;Apr–SeptTue–Fri9am–12.30pm,
2.30–6pm,Sat–Sun10am–1pm,2.30–6.30pm,Oct–MarTue–Fri9am–12.30pm,2.30–5.30pm,Sat–Sun
10am–12.30pm,2.30–5.30pm;combinedticket).Thearchaeologymuseumhasprehistoric,Romanand
Longobardcollectionsfromthelocalregion.Thenaturalhistorymuseumaddstotherocksandplantswith
amammothskeletonandaEudimorphonRanziiZambelli(flyingreptiledinosaur).
ViaColleoniisthebusycentreoftheOldCity.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
ThroughthearchinPiazzaMascheroni,usedasalinenmarketbytheVenetiansandlaterasaplace
forfunfairsandfestivals,itisappealingtoturnbacktolookattheTorridiCampanellaabovethearch,
begunin1355andcompletedinthe19thcentury.Bothpiazzasalsohavefragmentsof16th-century
frescoes.
AcrossthepiazzaisthestartofViaColleoniG[map],thenarrowcobbledmainstreetoftheOldCity,
linedbyenticingrestaurants,delicatessensandpatisseries.Ashortdistancealongontheleftisthe15thcenturychurchofSant’AgatadelCarmine,whilefurtherdownontherightistheTeatroSociale,
designedin1803byPollack.Closedasatheatrein1929,itsglamorousneoclassicalinteriorisusedfor
exhibitions.
PiazzaVecchia
Justbeyond,theroadcomesoutintothecentralsquare,thefabulousPiazzaVecchiaH[map],purposebuiltasashow-stopping,power-wieldingcentrepiecetothecitybytheVenetiansinthe15thcentury.
Ontheleft,withawhitemarblecolonnadeonlyfinishedinthe20thcentury,thePalazzoNuovowas
builtintheearly17thcenturybyVincenzoScamozzi,apupilofPalladio.Oncethetownhall,itnow
housestheBibliotecaAngeloMai(PiazzaVecchia15;tel:035-399430/399431;Mon–Fri8.45am–
5.30pm,Sat8.45am–1pm,closedfirsttwoweeksinAug;free),oneofItaly’sfinestlibraries,foundedin
1768.
Opposite,stairsleadupbesidetheopenarchestothePalazzodellaRagione(tel:035-270413;Mar
daily10am–noon,2–6pm,Apr–Septdaily9am–noon,2–8pm,Satcloses11pm,OctSat–Sun10am–noon,
2–6pm,Nov–FebSat–Sun10am–noon,2–4pm).Thisisknowntohavebeenhereinsomeformin1199,
butfacedtheotherway.ItwasturnedroundbytheVenetians,whoaddedtheloggiaandLionofStMark
(nowamodernone,replacingafarmoreresplendentoriginal).
Nexttothepalazzo,the54-metre(177ft)highTorreCivicaI[map](PiazzaVecchia;tel:035-247119;
Apr–OctTue–Fri9.30am–6pm,Sat–Sun9.30am–8pm,Nov–MarTue–Fri9.30am–1pm,2.30–6pm,Sat–
Sun9.30am–6pm)tookitspresentformin1197undertheSuardi-Colleonifamily,whouseditasaprison.
Thebellswereaddedlater,andtheclockarrivedin1407.Themainbell,theCampanone,washungin
themid-17thcenturyandnarrowlyescapedbeingmelteddownbytheGermansin1943.Itstrikes180
timestomarkthecurfewandthelockingofthecitygatesandstrikes12timesatnoon.Thereisalift,and
theviewsare,ofcourse,superb.
InthecentreofthepiazzaisamonumentalfountaindonatedbyAlviseContarini,theVenetianPodestà,
in1780.
Tip
BetweenAprilandOctober,therearetwo-hourguidedwalkingtoursoftheCittàAlta,in
EnglishandItalian,onWedandSunat3pmandonSatat10.30am,meetingattheFunicular
UpperStation,PiazzaMercatodelleScarpe.Fortoursatothertimes,contacttheGruppo
GuideTuristicheCittàdiBergamo,tel:035-344205,www.bergamoguide.it.
PalazzoNuovo.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Agloryofchurches
AsyouwalkthroughthearchesbeneaththePalazzodellaRagione,lookforthesundialonthepaving.The
PiazzadelDuomowastheRomanForumandthecitycentreuntiltheVenetiansshifteditsideways.On
theleftasyouenter,cladinwhitemarbleistheDuomo(PiazzaDuomo;tel:035-210223;Mon–Fri
7.30am–noon,3–6.30pm,Sat–Sun7am–7pm;free).Thegrandiosefacadedatesfrom1886,butthechurch,
oncededicatedtoSanVincenzo,goesbackto1100,andhasbeenmodifiedagainandagainthroughthe
ages.
Directlyopposite,thedelicatelittleoctagonalbuildinglikeanorientalbirdcageistheBattistero
(Baptistery).Thiswasplacedherein1856,usingfragmentsofabaptisterythatstoodinsideSantaMaria
Maggiore,andwasdesignedbyGiovannidaCampionein1340.
Atthefarsideofthepiazza,Bergamo’stworealcrowninggloriesstandsidebyside.Standingonthe
left,theplainerRomanesquechurchwithaGothicportal(andlions)istheBasilicadiSantaMaria
MaggioreJ[map](PiazzaDuomo;tel:035-223327;Apr–OctMon–Sat9am–12.30pm,2.30–6pm,Sun
9am–1pm,3–6pm,Nov–MarMon–Sat9am–12.30pm,2.30–5pm,Sun9am–1pm,3–6pm;free).The
flamboyantRenaissancebuildingimmediatelytoitsrightistheCappellaColleoni(PiazzaDuomo;tel:
035-210061;Mar–Octdaily9.30am–12.30pm,2–6pm,Nov–FebTue–Sun9.30am–12.30pm,2–4.30pm;
free).
Thefirstchurchonthissitedatesbackto774andtheendofaboutofplague.Workontheexpanded
versionbeganin1137,underthewatchfuleyeofMaestroFredo.TheGothicportalfacingthePiazza
DuomowasaddedbyGiovannidaCampioniin1351–3,wholateraddedthesouthernportal.Inside,little
senseofitsRomanesquesimplicityremainsbeneaththegildingandotheroverpoweringmagnificence,
althoughtherearesome13th-centuryfrescoesamidtheBaroquetapestries(1580–86),anelaborately
carvedconfessional(AndreaFantoni,1705)andthemarquetrychoirstalls(byLorenzoLotto,with
woodworkasdelicateasanoilpainting).Atthebackofthechurch,thereisamonumentbyVincenzoVela
tothecomposerGaetanoDonizetti(1797–1848),whosebodywasmovedherein1875.
TheColleoniChapel,builtbysculptorandarchitectGiovanniAntonioAmadeoin1476forthetomb
ofBartolomeoColleoniandhisdaughterMedea,anddedicatedtoStJohntheBaptist,isevenmore
decorativethanthemainchurch.Theworkismainlythevisionofonemanandithasaharmonyand
delicacyoftouchthatistrulycharming.TheceilingfrescoesarebyTiepolo.
Inside,thebasilicaflowersintoafull-blownBaroqueextravaganza.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Donizetti
FromthebackdoorofSantaMariaandtotheleftisthesmallround11th-centuryTempiettodiSanto
Croce(tel:035-278111;byappointmentonly)modelled,likesomanyoftheperiod,ontheChurchofthe
HolySepulchreinJerusalem.Totheright,theMuseoDonizettianoK[map](ViaArena9;tel:035-247
116;June–SeptTue–Sun9.30am–1pm,2.30–6pm,Oct–MayTue–Fri9.30am–1pm,Sat–Sun9.30am–1pm,
2.30–6pm)takesuptworoomsinthe15th-centuryMisericordiaMaggiore,lavishlyfrescoedinthe19th
centurybylocalartistBonomini.ThemuseumfocusesonthehighlightsofDonizetti’scareerwith
manuscripts,firsteditions,lettersandpersonalpossessions,includinghispianoandothermusical
instruments.DomenicoDonizetti(1797–1848)wasborninBergamo.HisoperaticdebutwasinVenicein
1818withEnricodiBorgognaandhewentontoenormoussuccessasoneofthegiantsofopera,working
inMilanandNaples,wherehepremieredhisfinestwork,LuciadiLammermoor,in1837.Named
“MaestrodiCappellaandComposeroftheImperialCourt”bytheEmperorFerdinandIofAustriain
1842,hebecameillin1845,returningtoBergamotodieon8April1848.
Tip
TheBergamoCardisa24-or48-hourtouristpassvalidforoneadultandonechildunder11
(€10and€15,respectively).Itallowsfreeentrancetomanymajormuseumsandsitesin
Bergamoaswellasfreepublictransportplusdiscountsatmanyshopsandrestaurants.Itis
availableonline(www.bergamocard.it)andinseverallocationsthroughouttown.
LaRocca
BackinPiazzaVecchia,themainroadcontinuesdownthehilltotherightasViaGombito,through
PiazzettaAngelinitoPiazzaMercatodelleScarpeandthetopstationofthefunicular.
Fromhere,ViaallaRoccaleadsuptoLaRoccaL[map](park:dailyJune–Sept9am–8pm,Oct–May
10am–5.30pm,tower:June–SeptTue–Fri9.30am–1pm,2.30–6pm,Sat–Sun9.30am–7pm,Oct–MayTue–
Sun9.30am–1pm,2.30–6pm;chargeformuseum,parkfree).Perchedononeofthehighestpointsinthe
walledcity,thiscastlewasfoundedbyJohnofLuxemburg,whileits23-metre(75ft)hightowerwasbuilt
inthe1330sbytheVisconti.Ithousesamuseumof19th-and20th-centuryhistory,coveringBergamo’s
roleintheRisorgimentoandtwoworldwars.Outsideisawarmemorialgardenwithshrinestoaviators,
astronautsandtheresistance.
Donizetti’spianohasprideofplaceinhismuseum.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
AroundBergamo
ValleSeriana
Stretchingnorthwestfromthecity,roughlyparallelwiththemotorway,theValleSeriana(
www.valleseriana.bg.it),alongthelineoftheSerioRiver,isamixofrundownindustry,development
andmountainscenery.StopinAlzanoLombardo2[map]tovisitthelittleSacredArtMuseuminthe
sacristyoftheBasilicadiSanMartino(PiazzaItalia8;tel:035-516579;Sun3–6pm,toursat4pm,orby
appointment).
Alittlefurtheron,theCeneParcoPaleontologico3[map](ViaBellora,17km/10.5milesfrom
Bergamo;tel:035-729318;www.triassico.it/parcocene;usuallyopenSat–Sun2–6pm,checkwebsitefor
details;guidedvisitsforgroupsondemandintheweek)standson220-million-year-oldTriassicfossil
beds.
TherealstarofthevalleyisthelittletownofClusone4[map],34km(21miles)fromBergamo,
knownasthecittàdipinta–thepaintedtown.Themainattractionhereisthemasterly15th-centuryfresco
depictingtheDanseMacabre(DanceofDeath)intheOratoriodeiDisciplinibytheBasilicadiSanta
MariaAssunta.TheMuseoArteTempo(ViaClaraMaffei3;tel:0346-25915;Fri3.30–6.30pm,Sat–
Sun10am–noon,3.30–6.30pm)alsodisplayspaintingsandsculpturesbylocalartistsfromthe15th
centuryon,aswellasacollectionofrareclocks.LookouttooforthefineOrologioPlanetariodi
Fanzago(AstronomicalClock)onthesouthsideofthetownhall(Piazzadell’Orologio),designedand
builtbyPietroFanzagoin1583.ThetownalsohostsamajorjazzfestivalinJuneandJuly.
Fact
ThethermalspringsofSanPellegrinocomefromtheDolomites.Rainwaterpenetrates700
metres(2,300ft)deepintotheporouscoralrock,gettingthoroughlypurifiedandcollecting
invaluablesulphate-bicarbonate-alkalinetraceelements,reachingthesurfaceataconstant
25°C(77°F).Thewaterissaidtohelpintreatingliverandkidneydisease,thedigestivetract
andthelungs.
ValleImagna
Northwestofthecity,theValleImagnaisatraditionalcentreoffinewoodworking,withasidelinein
puppetry–thisiswheretobuyyourownPinocchio.InthevillageofAlmennoSanBartolomeo5[map],
theMuseodelFalegnameTinoSana(ViaPapaGiovanniXXIII3;tel:035-554411;Mon–Fri9am–
noon,Sat3–6pm,Sun9.30am–noon,3–6pm;closedAug)isamuseumofcarpentry,withasectionon
puppetsandaWorldWarIAnsaldoA1biplanebelongingtolocalwarheroAntonioLocatelli.Nearby,
theRotondadiSanTomé(tel:034-5281132;May–OctTue–Fri10am–noon,2.30-5.30pm,Sat–Sun
10am–noon,2.30–6pm,Nov–AprTue–Sat10am–noon,2.30–4.30pm,Sun10am–noon,2.30–5pm)isan
enchantinglate11th–early12thcenturychapelinthewoods,withbeginningsthatstretchbacktotheearly
8thcentury.ItstiersofRomanesquearchesprovidearareupperwomen’sgalleryandanarrayoffantastic
capitals.Onlysmallfragmentsofthefrescoesremain.ThechurchofSanGiorgioinnearbyAlmennoSan
Salvatorewasfirstbuiltinthe10thcentury,rebuiltin1120,andhasfine14th-centuryfrescoes.
ValleBrembana
BackonthemainroadandheadingnorthalongtheValleBrembana,ahugebottlingplantacrosstheriver
markstheentrytoatownwithafamiliarname–SanPellegrinoTerme6[map],24km(15miles)northof
Bergamo.
EverywhereyoulookinthisprettylittletownfilledwithArtNouveauarchitecturaltreasuresyouwill
seethebottledwaterlogo.Thisoncefashionableresorthasbeenneglectedformanyyears,withits
glamorouscasinoclosedandthegloriousoldArtNouveauHotelGrandecrumbling.However,hopeisin
sight:amulti-million-euroredevelopmentplanisintheworkswhichaimstoturnthetownintoaresortof
swishspahotels–andrestoresomeofitslostsparkleintheprocess.
Alittlefurtherupthevalley,aturningtotheleftleadstoSanGiovanniBianco7[map]andthe
medievalvillageofOneta,wherethe14th-centuryCasadiArlecchino(tel:0345-43262;daily10am–
noon,3–6pm),belongingtothearistocraticGratarolifamily,isconsideredtobethehomeofHarlequin,
thepatchworkfoolofthecommediadell’arte.BeyondisthespectacularsceneryofValTaleggio,which
producesoneofItaly’sfinestcheeses.
RotondadiSanTomé.
Fotolia
SanPellegrinoTerme.
iStock
WestofBergamo
PopeJohnXXIIIcamefromthevillageofSottoIlMonte,16km(9.5miles)westofBergamo.Bornin
1881,thefourthof13childrenofapoorfarmingfamily,AngeloGiuseppeMazzolastudiedandworkedin
BergamobeforegoingtoRomein1921,movingasabishoptoBulgaria,Turkey,ParisandVenice.He
waselectedPopeJohnXXIIIin1958.Anardentworkertowardspeacebetweennationsandreligions,he
presidedovertheseminalVaticanIIConferencein1962.Hediedin1963andwasbeatifiedin2000.
AstatueofthePopestandsattheentrancetothevillage,nowknownasSottoilMonteGiovanni
XXIII8[map].Oppositeisatouristinformationoffice(tel:035-790902).Amonumentalwayprocesses
upthehilltothechurch,nearagiganticpictureofilPapa.VisittheCasaMuseodiPapaGiovanniXXIII
(ViaCamaitino12;tel:035-792956;daily8–5.30pm,summeruntil6.30pm;free)andPopeJohn’shome
(Missionaridelpime,ViaColombera5;tel:035-791101).
Furtherwest,theAddaRiverbroadensandslows,windingthroughamixofpicture-bookcountryside
andderelictindustrialdevelopment,includingthe1906hydro-electricplantatTrezzosull’Adda.Itisa
popularplaceforboating,walkingandcyclingholidays;passingancientandmodernbridges,churches,
castles,andthemarshyreed-bedssouthofTrezzosull’Adda,whichareabirdsanctuary.
HousesintheindustrialvillageofCrespid’Adda.
GettyImages
Crespid’Adda9[map](tel:02-90987191;www.villaggiocrespi.it)isanexcellentexampleofa
19th-century‘companytown’.Itwasfoundedin1878bythephilanthropicCrespifamilyofindustrialists
tomeettheneedsoftheworkersattheircottonfactory.Theyprovidedfacilitiesthatincludedschools,
churches,shopsandplacesofentertainment.Thearchitectureofthevillageisextraordinary,withthetrim
gridofEnglish-stylehouses,eachwithagardenbigenoughtogrowsomevegetables,surroundingthetiny
proportionsoftheelaborateriverbankfactory;thereisalsothebattlementedcastlethatwastheCrespi
familyhome,andthevastlyelaboratesteppedpyramidinthecemetery.ItwasthefirstvillageinItalyto
haveelectriclighting,andthevillagehasaMilanareacodethankstothedirectlinebetweenthefamily’s
homesinMilanandCrespiinthelate19thcentury.
ThevillagebecameaUnescoWorldHeritageSitein1995andisstilllivedin,mainlybydescendants
oftheoriginalworkers,buttheeffortstokeepitperfectwhiletheindustryatitscorehascrumbled(the
factoryclosedin2004),makesitstrangelyunworldly.Thefamilyhomeisnowahotelandthevillage
surviveslargelyasatouristsight.
IlCaravaggio
BothMilanandCaravaggioclaimtobethebirthplaceofMichelangeloMeresi(inSeptember1571),butwhatiscertainisthatbytheage
ofsixhewaslivinginCaravaggio.ApprenticedtoTitianattheageof13,hemovedtoVenice,fromwhereheescapedtoRomeafter
murderingashopassistant.By1599,hewasreceivingimportantcommissions,butagainranintotrouble,jailedforrowdybehaviour,tried
andconvictedfordefamationofcharacterandeventually,in1606,killingamanandfleeingtoNaples,thenMaltaandSicily.On18July
1610,friendsatcourthadsupposedlyarrangedapardonandhewasonhiswaybacktoRomewhenwordcameofhisdeath.Nobody
waseverfound.
SantuariodellaMadonnadiCaravaggio.
SuperStock
SouthofBergamo
Caravaggio)[map],25km(15.5miles)southofBergamo,wasthechildhoodhomeofoneofthegreatest
artistsoftheBaroqueera,MichelangeloMeresi,knownas“IlCaravaggio”.
AttheSantuariodellaMadonnadiCaravaggio,amiraculousstatueoftheVirginisnowhousedin
animposing18th-centuryshrinejustoutsidethecity,builtonthespotwheretheVirginisreportedtohave
appearedtoalocalwoman,GiannettaDe’Vacchi,on26May1432andwhereaspringmiraculously
gushedfromtheearth.ThereisnowanelaborateHolyFontatthesiteofthespring,withanevengrander
HighAltarbehind.Pilgrimscometobatheinthesacredpool.
LAKECOMO
Forovertwomillennia,therich,thepowerful,theartisticandtheromantichavebeen
drawntoLakeComo.Thedistinctivelyforkedshoresofthelakeofferthequintessence
ofromanticItaly–opulentvillas,glamoroushotelsandabsurdlyprettyvillagesthat
tumbledownthedarkgreenmountainside.
MainAttractions
Como’sDuomo
Villad’Este
CentroLago
VillaCarlotta
Varenna’sGardens
VillaCipressiandVillaMonastero
BellagioWaterfront
Lombardy’sLakeComoisthemostdramaticofthelakes.InaprimepositionbetweentheAlpsandthePo
Valley,it’srichinbothnaturalbeautyandman-madegrandeur.Lario,asitisknownlocally(fromitsLatin
name,Larius,namedaftertheRomanhouseholddeities,theLares),isshapedlikeanupside-down“Y”
andisfedbytheMeraRiver,whiletheAddaflowsfromthelakeatitssoutheasterntip.Stretching50km
(32miles)betweenComoandSorico,itisatitswidest(4.4km/3miles)betweenFiumelatteand
Cadenabbia,anditssurfaceareaof146sqkm(56sqmiles)makesitItaly’sthird-largestlake(after
GardaandMaggiore).TheRamo(branch)diComohasmoreglamourandcharmthanitsausteretwin
RamodiLecco,whileitsnorthernreach,RamodiColico(orAltoLario)offersAlpinesceneryand
watersports.TheCentroLago,wherethethreebranchesmeet,isbyfarthemostbeautifulpartofthelake.
LakeComowaterfront.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
CityofComo
ThecityofComo1[map](pop.83,000)liesatthesoutherntipofthewesternbranch.Itdrawsthecrowds
largelybecauseitistheperfectstartingpointforexploringtherestofthelake,butitisworthaquickvisit
foritsatmosphericoldquarter,andaremarkablecathedral.Climbingupthedark-greenwoodedhillside
behindthelakeisafunicularleadingtowonderfulviews.BeyondliestheindustrialheartofEurope’s
greatestsilkmanufacturers.
PiazzaCavour,Como.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
ComobeganlifeinthenearbyhillsduringtheearlyEuropeanBronzeAge;itmovedtoitspresent
watersidelocationwhenitwasdecreedamunicipalitybyJuliusCaesarandrenamedNovumComum.
TheFranksledbyCharlemagnefollowed,anditbecameacentreofcommercialexchangeuntilitwas
partiallydestroyedduringtheTenYearsWarwithMilan(1118–27).RebuiltwiththehelpofFrederick
Barbarossa,itbecamepartoftheDucatoofMilan(1395–1797)andthenflourishedunderAustrianrule
asthesilkindustrygotunderway.Thetownbecamepartofthenewly-formedKingdomofItalyunder
GiuseppeGaribaldiin1895,anactioncommemoratedinthemanystreets,museumsandpiazzasinthe
areabearinghisname.
TheCittàMurata
ToseeComoatitsbest,arrivefromthenorthbyboatandenjoytheviewsofitshorseshoe-shapedfront,
boundedoneithersidebyVillaOlmoandVillaGeno.Therectangularoldquarterspreadssoutheastfrom
thepromenade’sratherpedestrianPiazzaCavour.
Startingatthecentreofthebay,headsoutheastthroughthemainsquareintotheCittàMurata,theold
quarterstillboundedinpartsbyitsmedievalwalls.Withinaminuteortwo’swalkalongbusyViaPlinio
(namedafterComo’smostfamoussons),youwillarriveatthecity’smaindraw,thebusyPiazzaDuomo
.DominatingitallistheDuomoA[map](Cathedral)(1396–1740),(Mon–Sat7.30am–7.30pm,Sununtil
9.30pm;www.cattedraledicomo.it;free)remarkableforitsGothic-Renaissancestyle.DesignerLorenzo
degliSpazzi’soriginalGothicdesignwasconstructedoverthenextfivecenturiesandwasonly
completedwhenFilippoJuvaraaddedthe20-metre(75ft)highcupolain1744.GiovanniRodariandhis
sonssculptedmuchofthestatuary,includingthetwoincongruousseatedfiguresofthe(non-Christian)
Plinysframingthewestdoor.WorksbyBernardinoLuini(AdorationoftheMagi)andGuadenzioFerrari
(FlightfromEgypt)brightenthedarkinterior,whiletwo9th-centurylionssupportthefonts,paying
homagetothechurchthatoncestoodhere,SantaMariaMaggiore.
Fact
BorninComo,PlinytheElder(AD23–79),Romannavalandmilitarycommander,lawyerand
scientist,wrotetheNaturalisHistoria,anancientscientificencyclopaedia.Hisnephewand
fellowauthor,PlinytheYounger(AD61–13),wroteanaccountofhisuncle’sdeathwhile
witnessingtheeruptionofVesuvius.Alsoalawyerandmagistrate,theyoungerPlinyowned
twovillasatBellagioandwroteaboutthelake’sbeautyinhisEpistulae(Letters).
PiazzadelDuomo,Como.
SuperStock
NexttotheDuomo,thegrey-and-white-stripedmarbleBroletto,the13th-centurytownhalland
campanilestandproudlyabovethethrongofshoppersexploringthemorecommercialsideofthepiazza.
Closetothecathedralstandstheapricot-colouredchurchofSanGiacomo,partlydemolishedtomake
roomfortheDuomo,andthe11th-centuryBishop’sPalace.Justbeyond,ontheothersideoftherailway
tracks,standswhatisconsideredamasterpieceofmodernarchitecture,thefunctionalrectangularblock
withloggiathatisthePalazzoTerragniB[map].NamedaftertheRationalismpioneerandlocalarchitect
GiuseppeTerragni,itwasbuiltbyhimin1932astheCasadelFascio,orformerFascistparty
headquarters.Today,itishometotheGuardiadiFinanza.
BackintheCittàMurata,theBasilicadiSanFedeleC[map](daily8am–noon,3.30pm–7pm;free)
standsinthePiazzaSanFedele,thecity’sformermarketplace.The10th-centurybuildinghouses
RenaissanceandBaroqueartworkandRomanesquedecorationsinitsgloomyinterior.Continuingalong
ViaVittorioEmanueleIIbringsyoutothePiazzaMedaglied’OroandtheMuseoArcheologicoD[map]
(ArchaeologicalMuseum;tel:031-252550;Tue–Sun10am–6pm),whichtellsthestoryofComo’spast
withIronAgefinds,RomanglassandRisorgimentomemorabilia.HeaddownViaGioviotoseethe
PortaTorre(1192),whichformedpartofthedefensivesystembuiltunderFrederickBarbarossa’srule,
withBaradelloCastle.ContinuealongthestreettothePinacotecaE[map](ViaDiaz84;tel:031-269869;
Tue–Sun10am–6pm),withitsmedievalandmodernpaintings.
Southandeastofthecity
Overonthesouthwestsideofthecity,ashortwalkfromSanGiovannitrainstation,standstheBasilica
Sant’Abbondio,foundedbyBenedictinemonksin1013.Chancesareyouwillhavethischurchto
yourself.The14th-centuryfrescoesoftheLifeofJesusmakeitworththetrip.
SilkscarvesforsaleinComo.
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Silk
ComoistosilkwhatVeniceistoglass–purasetadiComoisaphraseknowntheworldover.
Today,some75percentofEurope’ssilkcomesfromComo.BoththeDuchessofCornwallandtheCrownPrincessofSpainworeiton
theirweddingdays,andleadingladiessuchasPenelopeCruzhavesashayeddowntheredcarpetinitattheOscars.
Theindustryoriginatedin1510,introducedeitherbyFriarDanieleorPietroBoldonifromBellano.Itdid,however,takeaconsiderable
timefortheindustrytodevelop.Rudimentarymanufacturingonlygotunderwayin1554,whenwoolproducers,facedwithstiff
competitionfromNorthernEurope,eventuallyembracedthenewtextile.However,sinceweavingwasforcenturiesrestrictedto
domesticuse,theprocessbecamemorerefinedonlyinthe19thcentury.Bythesecondhalfofthe1800s,Comoanditssurroundings
werefilledwithfactoriesastheprocessesofweavinganddyeingexpanded.Butitwastheproductionofpowerloomsinthelate19th
centurythatledComotobecometheworldleaderinfabricatinghighlyrefinedwovenandprintedsilk.
Silkproduction
Theproductionofsilkisextremelytime-consumingandcomplex,whichexplainsbothitsappealanditshighprices.Thenaturaltextile
fibreisproducedbysilkworms,whicharefedhugeamountsofmulberryleavesforaroundamonth.Today,theprocessisscientifically
controlledandthemulberryleafisbeingreplacedbyaneasiersubstitute.Oncesatiatedandatitsfullsize,thesilkwormspinsacocoon.It
isthethreadfromthiscocoonwhichisthenreeledoff,oncedonebyhand-dippingthecocoonsinbasinsofhotwaterinthespinningmills
stillfoundthroughoutthearea.Severalthreadsarejoinedtogethertomakeayarn,whichiscleaned,twisted(“thrown”)andsteamed.It
takes100cocoonstoweaveonetie,and630cocoonstomakeablouse.
Assilkisrarelyusedinitsnaturalcolour(ayellowy-white),itisdyed,beforeorafterweaving,andthenprintedbyblock,screenorroller,
aprocessnowcontrolledbycomputer.Thefinalstageisthe“finishing”,ahighlytechnicalandspecialisedprocessforwhichComo
companiesarejustlyrenowned.Knownas“ennoblement”foritsabilitytoimprovetheproduct’sfinallook,thefinishingprocesseswere
fordecadesacloselyguardedsecret,withspecialisedhandmademachineryandrarechemicalproductsusedtogivethefabriccertain
effectssuchaspleating,softnessandveining.
Shiftsintheindustry
Backinthe1950s,Italyhadaround40,000spinningmillsbutinthe1970sittotallyabandonedrawsilkproduction,unabletocompetewith
lowChinesesilkprices.In2014,however,theItaliantextileindustryvowedtocreate1,000silkwormfactoriesinthefollowingfiveorsix
yearsandin2015around100ofthemwerealreadyoperatingintheVenetoregion.Thismovefollowedasharpincreaseinthecostof
silkexportedfromChina–mulberrytrees,onwhichsilkwormsfeed,arefastdisappearinginChinaasaresultoftheoveruseof
insecticides.
SilkisComo’smostfamouscontributiontoindustry,proudlycommemoratedintheMuseodellaSeta
F[map](ViaCastelnuovo9;tel:031-303180;www.museosetacomo.com;Tue–Fri10am–6pm,Sat
10am–1pm).Themuseumprovidesauniquelookattheentiresilk-makingprocesswithitslarge
collectionofweavingmachineryandfinishingequipment.TheFondazioneAntonioRattiMuseodel
Tessuto(LungoLarioTrento9;tel:031-3384976;www.fondazioneratti.org;Tue–Sun2.30–5.30pm;by
appointmentonly;free)hasaround6,000examplesofantiquetextilesandsamplebooks.
Comocentre.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
ViaReginaTeodolinda,whichrunsparalleltotheRegionaleParcoSpinaVerde,eventuallytakes
youbacktothelake.Dedicated,alongwithseveralothermonuments,tothelocal-bornphysicist
AlessandroVolta,thetemple-museumTempioVoltianoG[map](VialeMarconi;tel:031-574705;Tue–
Sun10am–6pm)ishometotheworld’sfirstbattery.Furtheralongthebay,youpasstheTerragni-built
MonumentoaiCaduti(WarMemorial),thestadium,strikinglyoddinitsmodernity,andtheseaplane
clubbeforereachingthemagnificentparkoftheneoclassicalVillaOlmoH[map],namedafteragiantelm
treesaidtodatefromthetimeofPlinytheElder.Theochre-colouredbuildingisnowavillathathosts
conferences,butitsgroundfloor,gardensandlidoareopen(villaTue–Sun10am–6pm,gardensdaily
Apr–Sept7am–11pm,Oct–Maruntil7pm;lidoJune–Septdaily9am–7pm;villaandgardensfree,lido
charge).
AstrollalongthepromenadeintheotherdirectiontakesyoupastbusyPiazzaMatteottianditsbus
stationtotheFunicolare(PiazzadeGasperi4;tel:031-303608;www.funicolarecomo.it;daily6am–
10.30pm,Satuntilmidnight,every15–30mins,untilmidnightdailyJune–mid-Sept),adelightfultrip500
metres/1,640ftupthehillsidetoBrunateI[map],a19th-centuryvillagewithadistinctlySwiss
atmosphere–andfabulousviews.Fromhere,youcanheadonanumberofexcursions,notablyatwoto
three-dayhikeorcycletoBellagioalongthe“BackboneoftheLarioTriangle”.Backonthecorniche,a
10-minutestrollfurtherroundtakesyoutoaheadlandoccupiedbytheVillaGenoJ[map]anditsgrounds
(tel:031-306127;daily9.30am–7pmsummer,until6pmwinter;free),withalido,restaurantandlovely
viewsbacktoComo.
RamodiComo
Asyouleavethecitytoexploretherestofthelake,headnorthforthestars–thisbottom-leftbranchofthe
lakehasbeendubbed“Comowood”bysome.Thebestwaytoseebothshoresistohoponaboatandzigzagbetweenthetwoquitedifferentshores(formoreinformation,clickhere).Headingup,thewestern
side,withitscollectionofcharmingvillagessuchasCernobbio,LaglioandCadenabbiaandthe
prestigiousvillasinbetween,ismorepopular,whichcanmakewanderingthroughthequietertownson
theeasternshoresuchasTorno,NessoandLezzenoallthemoreattractiveinhighsummer.
Fact
SmugglingovertheSwissborderhaslongbeenacauseforconcerntothefinanzieri
(customsofficers).Twomuseums,oneinComo’sCustomsPoliceheadquarters,theotherin
theVald’Intelvi’sErbonne(PiccoloMuseodellaGuardiadiFinanzaedelcontrabbando,San
FedeleIntelvi;tel:333-2384179),explorethetimewhenbagsofsugar,coffeeandcigarettes
wereloadedintobagsandsneakedintothecountrybyspalloni(smugglers).
Thewesternshore
Cernobbio2[map]isanattractivetownmadeupofaclusterof16th-centuryhousesandprominentvillas.
HuggingtheslopesofMonteBisbino,whosesummitmarkstheSwissborder,Cernobbio’schief
attractionsaretwosumptuousvillasstandingalooffromthecompactlakesidepiazzaandcentre.The
19th-centuryformerhomeoffilmdirectorLuchinoVisconti,VillaErba(www.villaerba.it)isnowa
conferencecentre(closedtovisitors).
Closebyisthe16th-centuryVillad’Este(formoreinformation,clickhere),oneofthegrandest–and
certainlymostfamous–hotelsonthelake.CommissionedasahomeforCardinalTolomeoGallioin
1568,itsmagnificencehasbeenattractingroyalty,headsofstateandtheverywealthyeversince.
AcquiredbyCarolineofBrunswickin1815,itwasconvertedintoahotelin1873andhassincechanged
littleofitsextraordinaryinteriorlavishnessandglorious10-hectare(25-acre)gardens.Ifyourbank
balanceisnotquitethatofpop-starproportions,thenyoucancontentyourselfwithavisittoitsdining
roomorgrandcocktailbar.
PassingthoughtheprettyvillagesandhamletsofMoltrasio,Carate-Urio,LaglioandBrienno,you
mayglimpsesomeresplendentvillasamongtheoldbalconiedhousesthatfringetheshoreline.Theseare
hometotheItalianeliteandinternationalcelebrities,includingGeorgeClooney,theVersacesandSir
RichardBranson.
Villad’Este.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
ItisbetweenthesmalltownofArgegnoonthewesternshoreandNessoontheeasternshorethatthe
lakebeddropstothegreatestdepth(410metres/1,345ft)ofanylakeinEurope.Thereisaroadfromhere
markingthestartoftheVald’Intelvi,ahighvalleywithlovelywalkinganddrivinguptotheSwiss
border;the“BalconyofItaly”atLanzod’IntelvihasdramaticviewsoverLakeLuganoandtheAlps.For
magnificentviewsofLakeComo,takethecablecarfromArgegnotoPigra(800metres/2,624ft).
Anothersmalldetour,thistime400metres/1,312ftintothehillsaboveOssuccio,istheSacroMonte
diOssuccio3[map](formoreinformation,clickhere),oneofagroupof15–17th-centurychapelsand
nowaUnescoWorldHeritagesite,reflectingitsarchitecturalandartisticimportance.OppositeOssuccio
andSalaComacinaisthelake’sonlyisland,IsolaComacina4[map].Separatedfromthewestshorebya
stretchofwatersosmoothitisknownastheZocadel’Oli(basinofoil),theisland’swoodedwilderness
hidesafascinatinghistoryamongstitsruinsandolivetrees.Oneoftheearliestsettlementsinthearea,it
wassackedin1169inretaliationforallyingwithMilanintheTenYearsWar(1118–27).Itwasthen
abandoneduntilthe20thcentury,whenlocalAugustoCapranibequeathedittoKingAlbertofBelgium,
whoreturnedittoItalyin1920touseasaretreatforBelgianandItalianartists.Today,itishometoa
fewartistsandanexclusiverestaurant.
Fact
DinersattheLocandadell’IsolaComacinatakepartinan“exorcismoffire”attheendof
theirmeal.Drinkingflambéedliqueurcoffeeissaidtowardoffacurselaidontheislandin
1169bytheBishopofComoduringtheTenYearsWarbetweenMilanandComo:“Thebells
willringnomore,stonewillnotbeplaceduponstone,noonewilleverplayhost,onpainof
violentdeath”.AdazzlingannualfireworkdisplayisheldhereontheSaturdayfollowingSt
JohntheBaptist’sDay.
IsolaComacina.
iStock
Theeasternshore
TheruggedeasternshorealongtheLariana,thecoastroadfromComotoBellagio,ismuchsleepierand
lessvisited;thisisreflectedinthequietnessofthenarrowroadsandtheintermittentboatservices–
checkthetimetablecarefully.
Standingoutfromthesteepshores,VillaPliniana,inTorno5[map],hashostedmanydistinguished
guestssince1575,includingStendhal,Rossini,ByronandShelley.Tornohasaprettymedievalcentre
overlookedbytheRomanesquechurchofSanGiovanni.
Nesso6[map],withitsclusterofstonehousesjostlingforspaceontopofoneanother,isthelargest
townbetweenComoandBellagio.Theformerfortifiedtownisdividedintotheprettyhamletsof
Castello,VicoandCarenoandishometosomespectacularscenery,notablytheNessoGorgeandthe
Maseragrotto,withitsinnerlake,oneofseveralcavernsinthearea.Furthertowardsthetipofthe
TriangoloLarianoisLezzeno7[map],directlyoppositetheIsolaComacina,whichhasCelticand
Ligurianoriginsandsomenotablechurches.Itsmainattraction,however,istheCarpeGrotto,also
knownastheBulberiorBlueGrottofortheremarkablecolourbeneaththewallsoftheSassiGrosgalli.
CentroLago
ThespotwherethethreebranchesofthelakemeetishometothepopulartownsofTremezzo,Bellagio,
MenaggioandVarenna.TheluxuriantMediterraneangardens,alluringvillagesandmildclimatemakeit
hardtoleaveatanytimeofyear.AfrequenttriangularboatservicerunningbetweenBellagio,Varenna
andMenaggioreflectstheirpopularity.
OntheLavedopromontoryjustoutsideLennoisthebreathtakingVilladelBalbianello8[map](tel:
0344-56110;www.fondoambiente.it;mid-Mar–mid-NovTue,Thur–Sun10am–6pm).FacingIsola
ComacinaandTremezzo,itsgloriouspanoramicviewsandfairytalevillacompletewithtowersanda
porticohavedrawnvisitorsandfilm-makersalike(partsofStarWarsEpisodeIIwerefilmedhere).
Builtinthe18thcentury,thehouseanditsvaluableartcollectionandsumptuousgardensweredonatedto
theFAI(ItalianNationalTrust,formoreinformation,clickhere)bythefamousexplorerCountGuido
Monzino.AccessisbyboatfromLenno,butonTue,Sat,Sunandpublicholidaysyoucanwalkthe
kilometre(justoverhalfamile)fromLenno.
Picture-perfectTremezzo.
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InlandfromhereisMezzegra9[map],best-knownasthetownwhereBenitoMussoliniandhis
mistressClaraPetacciwereshotdeadbypartisanson28April1945.Acrossmarkstheplaceoftheir
execution.
TremezzoanditsneighbourCadenabbiajustnorthofLennoarefilledwithgrandhotelsfromthe
BelleEpoque,attractingfamousguestssuchasGiuseppeVerdi,StendhalandQueenVictoria.Alarge
Englishcommunitysoonfollowed,resultinginoneofItaly’sfirstAnglicanchurches.Today,visitorsfrom
allovertheworldaredrawntothesedateareabytherenownedVillaCarlotta)[map](ViaRegina2;tel:
0344-40405;www.villacarlotta.it;dailyApr–mid-Oct9am–7.30pm,firsthalfofMar,mid-Oct–late-Oct
10am–6pm),anexceptionallyphotogenicmajesticvillawithgloriousgardens.Itwasbuiltinthelate17th
centurybyMarquisGiorgioClerici,theheirtoafortunemadeinthesilktrade.Inthe19thcentury,
businessmanGianBattistaSommarialavishlyfilleditwithpreciousworksofart,includingsculpturesby
CanovaandThorwaldsen.In1843,hisheirssoldittoPrincessMarianneofNassau,whogaveitasa
weddingpresenttoherdaughterCarlotta.Its6-hectare(14-acre)formalterracedgardensareasbiga
drawasthestartlinglywhitehouseanditsart,withfountainsandstatuescarefullyarrangedamong150
typesofrhododendron,camelliaandazalea.
Where
Comoishometotheoldestseaplaneschoolintheworld(foundedin1913).Touristplanes
leavefromthetown’slakefronttowhereveryouchoose–makingvirtuallyeverybitofthe
lakeaccessible.AeroClubComo,ViaMasia44;tel:031-574495;www.aeroclubcomo.com.
Everygardenwasdesignedtoframetheviewandeverybuildingdesignedtoenhancenature.
GettyImages
Menaggio
Menaggio![map],wheretheViaReginaforkswesttoSwitzerlandandnorthwardsupthelake,is
bustling.The19th-centurywaterfrontislinedwithcafés,barsandhotels.Itsbeachandlido(lateJune–
mid-Septdaily9am–7pm)makeitapopularstopwithtourists,ascanbeseenbytheexcellentand
frequentboatlinks.Watersports,golfandhikingareparticularlygoodhere;thetouristoffice(Piazza
Garibaldi3;tel:0344-32924;www.menaggio.com;9am–12.30pm,2.30–6pm,closedSun,Wed)has
detailsofwalkingroutes,includingsomeintothebeautifulParcoNaturaleValSanagraandtoRifugio
Menaggio(1,400metres/4,593ft),the“balcony”,withviewsoverLakeComo,MonteLegnone,Cornidi
CanzoandtheGrignepeaks.
Ifyouwanttogetawayfromthethrong,headupthenarrowcobbledstreetsofthemedievaltown,
onceamajormilitarystronghold;youcanstillmakeouttheremainsofa10th-centurycastleandthe
fortificationsthatonceencircledthehilldowntotheharbour.
Fromthecentrestretchthreecharminghamlets:Nobiallo,LovenoandCroce.Thefirstisaformer
fishingvillageextendingnorthwards1km(0.5mile)alongtheshore;aboveistheglamorousLoveno,
hometothewonderful18th-centuryVillaMyliusVigoni,a25-minuteuphillwalkfromtheMenaggio
landingstage.NowanItalian/Germanconferencecentre,itsspectacularparkisopentovisitorswhenno
seminarsarebeingheld(tel:0344-36111or232;accessonyear-roundguidedtoursonly:2.30pmThu
only,exceptAug,reservationcompulsory;www.villavigoni.it).Croce(443metres/1,453ft)enjoys
panoramicviewsofLakeComoandLakePianotothewest,particularlyfromitssplendidviewpointof
LaCrocetta(505metres/1,657ft),a25-minutewalkfromthehamlet.Croceisalsohometotherenowned
MenaggioandCadenabbiaGolfClub,oneoftheoldestinItaly(www.menaggio.it).
AsteepstreetinBellagio.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Varenna
Arrivebyboat,withancientVarenna@[map]slowlycomingintoviewasthe13th-centurycampanileof
SanGiorgiochimesawelcomeandyouwillneverwanttoleave.Thisabsurdlyprettyspotisnotonlya
delighttolookat,butalsoawondertolookoutfrom:standingonarockypromontory,ithasanenviable
viewofallthreebranchesofthelake.Oncethere,thepassarellaisascenicwalkwayhuggingtherocks
alongthelakeside.Theoleanderarcadesalongthepromenadearejustthespottoenjoyagelato,whilea
shortwalkupnarrow,crumblingstepstakesyoutothemainsquare,PiazzaSanGiorgioandthetourist
officenearby(tel:0341-830367;www.varennaturismo.com;Apr–SeptTue–Sat10am–1pm,3–6pm,Sun
andholidays10am–1pm).
FurtheralongaretheenchantinggardensoftheneoclassicalVillaCipressi,nowahotel,with
exquisitegroundsslopingdowntothelake.TheadjacentVillaMonastero(tel:0341-295450;
www.villa​monastero.eu;Mar–Dec,openingtimesforbothhouseandgardenvarygreatly,checkwebsite;
museumonlyopenwhentherearenoconferences),aformerCistercianmonasterybuiltinthe13th
century,isusedasaconferencecentre,butitsgardensareopentothepublic,andamuseuminsidethe
villaholdsantiquesandfurniturebelongingtothevilla’sformerinhabitants.
Asteep20-minuteclimbupMountFoppfromVillaMonasteroorthelandingstagerevealsstunning
viewsandthechancetoexploretheoldtownofVezioanditssemi-ruined7th-centuryCastellodiVezio
(tel:348-8242504;www.castellodivezio.it;Mar,OctMon–Fri10am–5pm,Sat–Sun10am–6pm,Apr–
May,SeptMon–Fri10am–6pm,Sat–Sun10am–7pm,June–AugMon–Fri10am–7pm,Sat–Sun10am–
8pm).Afalconergivesdemonstrationsinthegrounds.AshorterwalksouthofVarennatakesyoutoa
hamletthatishometotheFiumelatte(RiverofMilk).ThisclaimstobetheshortestriverinItaly(just250
metres/820ft),itscreamy-lookingwatersinexplicablyflowingonlybetweenMarchandOctober.
Bellagio
Bellagio£[map],the“pearlofLario”,liesatthetipofthetriangleformedbythetwosouthernbranches,
theTriangoloLariano.Itslocationandscenicwaterfrontcompletewithice-cream-colouredgrandhotels
andsteepcobbledstepsthatserveasalleyways,bringoutthepoetineveryonewhocomeshere–not
leastPlinytheYounger,Shelley,FlaubertandMarkTwain.
TwoSerbellonivillas
NowhometotheGrandHotelVillaSerbelloni(formoreinformation,clickhere)anditsMichelinstarredrestaurant,Mistral,thejetsetflockhere–asdoday-trippers.Awayfromthejacaranda-lined
waterfront,thetinyBorgo(themedievalpartoftown)andmazeofsteppedstreetslinedwithdelis,
eateriesandsilkshopsisadelighttoexplore.PeeringdownonthetownistheRomanesquechurchofSan
Giacomoanditstower,survivorsfromBellagio’smedievalfortifications.Thetouristofficeisatthe
landingstageonPiazzaMazzini(tel:031-950204;www.bellagiolakecomo.com;Apr–OctMon–Sat
9am–12.30pm,1.30–5.30pm,Sun10.30am–12.30pm).
OnthehilltopstandstheVillaSerbelloniwithsplendidviewsofallthreebranchesofthelakeandthe
mountainsfromitspark.Itisrunasastudycentreandisnottobeconfusedwithitsnamesake,theGrand
HotelVillaSerbelloni,below.
Thetwowereoncelinked.In1907,thehotel,thenknownasGrandHotelBellagio,boughtand
convertedthethenabandonedhilltopmansion;thehotellaterchangeditsnameinhonouroftheformer
residents,theSerbellonifamily.
TheappealingBellagiowaterfront.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
ThevillaisnowownedbytheRockefellerFoundationandclosedtovisitors,butthereareguided
toursofthegardenonTue–Sunmid-Mar–Octat11amand3.30pmleavingfromthemedievaltowerin
PiazzaSanGiacomo(tel:031-951555;groupsof6–30only;bookingaheadessential).Ifyoucannotdo
thetourbutwanttheview,taketheroadrunningalongsidetheparktoPuntaSpartiventoandthesmall
harbourattheverytipoftheheadland,whichisalovelyspotforadip.Headsouthalongthelakeside
promenadeandpastthelido(tel:031-950597)toBellagio’sothermagnificentresidence,VillaMelzi
(tel:031-950204;late-Mar–Octdaily9.30am–6.30pm)anditsneoclassicalchapel,museumand
outstandingMediterraneangardens.FurtheraroundtakesyoupastthehamletofLoppia,thelanding
docksoftheoldLakeComogondolas,tothevillageofSanGiovanni$[map](30minutesonfootfromthe
centre)andtheMuseodegliStrumentiperlaNavigazione(MuseumofNavigationalInstruments;tel:
031-950309;www.bellagiomuseo.com;daily10am–1pmorbyappointment),acollectionoftelescopes,
compassesandmarinechronometers.OtherwalksincludeonetoPescallo,acharmingfishingvillage10
minuteswestofthecentreontheLeccosideofthepromontory.
TheelegantlysolidVillaMelzi.
AnnaMockfordandNickBonetti/ApaPublications
TheTriangoloLariano
Thistrianglestandsbetweenthetwosouthernlegsofthelake.FromBellagioatitsnortherntip,the
triangleopenssouthwardsontoawealthofdelightfulhamlets,historicalsitesandwalks,endinginthe
fiveBrianzalakesandthetownofErba.Tworoadsrunthroughit,theLariana(thecoastalroadfrom
BellagiotoComo)andtheValassina,runningdirectlythroughthemiddlefromBellagiototheBrianza
lakes.OutstandingviewsoftheAlpstothenorthandthePianuraPadanatothesouthcanbefoundatthe
peakofMonteSanPrimo(1,686metres/5,528ft)–ifyoudon’tmindasteeptwo-hourclimb.The
ValassinaishometoholidayresortssuchasCanzo,atthefootoftherockypeaksoftheCorni;
viewpointsofMonteSanPrimo,PianodelTivanoandPianoRanciobecomeskiresortsinwinter.
WheretheLarianTrianglemountainsandtheplainsmeetinAltaBrianzaarefivelakesstretching
fromComotoLecco,describedaslittledropsleftbehindbyLakeComo.TinyLagoMontorfano%[map]
(7km/4milesfromComo)isoverlookedbytheprestigiousgolfcourseVillad’Esteandisperfectfor
swimming;LagodiAlserio(5km/3milesfromErba)wasonceconnectedtoLagodiPusiano(4km/2.5
milesfromErba),andbotharefoundintheParcodellaValledelLambro^[map]andareidealfor
afternoonpicnicsandstrolls;Segrino,tooisinComoprovince,whileAnnoneisintheprealpineLecco
province.ThegreenBrianzaplainswerearesortfornobleMilanesefamilies;todaytheareaismore
industrial–afifthofallItalianfurnitureismadehere.
Fact
Cyclistscanmakeapilgrimagetotheirpatronsaint,MadonnadelGhisallo.Thechurchstands
atPassoRancio(755metres/826yds)andhousesanexhibitionofcyclingmemorabilia.Witha
caféandparkingarea,italsomakesapopularstoppingpointalongthepanoramicroutefrom
ErbatoBellagio.
LagodiLecco
LakeComo’ssoutheasternforkislesspopularthanitstwin,perhapsduetoitsstarkeratmospherewiththe
craggyGrignerangeloomingovertheratherprosaicvillages.
ThewesternshorebetweenBellagioandLecco(20km/12miles)haslittlebywayofdiversionsonce
youleavePescallo,buttheeasternshorehasafewinterestingstopsbeforereachingLecco.Theancient
settlementofLierna,justsouthofVarenna,isthelastalluringspotonthisshorebeforethemodern
placessuchastheindustrialisedtownofMandellodelLarioandformersilktownAbbadiaLariana.
BoatszigzagtheirwaybetweenBellagioandMandellothroughouttheyear,addinginLeccoonlyduring
thesummerseason.
Lecco&[map]itselfismostfamousasthesettingofaclassicbookbyItaly’scherishedRomantic
novelistAlessandroManzoni.“LeccoisbuiltontheshoreofthebranchofLakeComothatextends
southwards,”beginsIPromessiSposi(TheBetrothed),buttodaythereislittletoinspireromance.Once
thehomeoftheGothsandLombards,thecommercialtownhasretainedafewinterestinghistoricalsights.
Thereconstructedbridge,PonteVecchio(originallybuilt1336–38),indicatesLecco’spastasa
medievalsiteofimportance;othermedievalremainssuchastheTorreVisconteasurvivearoundthe
PiazzaXXSettembreandPiazzaCermenati.Thetower,onceaprison,isnowtheMuseoCivicodel
RisorgimentoedellaResistenza(CivicMuseumoftheRisorgimentoandtheResistance).Thereisalso
Pescarenico,anoldfishingvillage,andnearby,theVillaManzoniartgallery(Tue–Fri9.30am–6pm,
Sat–Sun10am–6pm)andthe18th-centuryPalazzoBelgiojoso,containingtheNaturalHistoryand
Historymuseums,aswellasaPlanetarium(www.museilecco.org;museumTue–Fri9.30am–2pm,Sat–
Sun10am–6pm,free;PlanetariumMon,Tue,Sat9.30am–noon,Friuntil9pm).
Lecco’sattractionreallyliesinitsscenery:lookupabovethefactoriesandtrafficandyou’llseeitis
surroundedbymountainpeaks:theharshGrigneandMonteResegoneononeside;ontheotherthegentler
CornidiCanzoandMonteBarro.Severalinterestingexcursionsheadintothehills,includinghikesinto
thestunningsouthernAlpinevalleyknownastheValsássina.Thetouristboard(PiazzaXXSettembre23;
tel:0341-295720;www.provincia.lecco.it;Mon9am–12.30pmandTue–Sunalso2.30–5.30pm).
LeccoandMonteResegone.
Bigstockphoto
RamodiColico–AltoLario
Headingalongthenorthernlimbofthelake,thescenerybecomesincreasinglydramatic,withthedazzling
villagesandpatricianvillasgivingwaytowildmountains.Thisbranchisdottedwithpopularcampsites,
caravanparksandwatersportscentresmakingthemostoftheBreva,themildbutconstantbreeze.Inland,
goodhikingandcyclingexertionsarerewardedwithtraditionaltrattoriasandstunningvistas.
ThemaindrawontheroughwesternbankisGravedona*[map],which,togetherwithDongoand
Sorico,formedthemedievalrepublicoftheTrePievi.OnthelakefrontistheimposingPalazzoGallio,
builtin1586forCardinalTolomeoGallio,whiletheSantaMariadelTiglio(dailysummer8.30am–
7pm,winteruntil5pm)isanimportantRomanesquechurchwithseveral12th-centuryfrescoes.The
neighbouringchurchesofSanVicenzo(1050)andSantaMariadelleGrazie,builtbyAugustinian
monksin1467,arealsoworthalook.
Como’smistylighthasfilledthedreamsofmanyapoet.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Alittlefurthersouth,Dongo([map]istodayknownchieflyasthesitewhereMussoliniandhisFascist
officialswerestoppedfromfleeingtoSwitzerlandbypartisans(beforebeingtakentoMezzegraandshot;
formoreinformation,clickhere).TheeventsarerememberedintheMuseodellaResistenza(Como
ResistanceMuseum),housedintheneoclassicalPalazzoManzi.
Ontheeasternshore,Bellano,[map]isfamedforitsspectacularlysteepgorgecalledOrridodi
Bellano,whichwasformedbythewatersofthePiovernagushingthroughtherockypassage.A
suspendedfootbridgetakesyouclosetothewater(thoughitisnotforthefaint-hearted).
ThefinalstoponLakeComoisthenorthernmosttownontheeasternshore.IndustrialColicoisatthe
footofMountLegnone.BuiltbytheSpanishinthe17thcentury,ithassincebeendestroyedbyforeign
troops,plaguesandthefloodingoftheAddaRiver.Around5km(3miles)south,perchedonthe
peninsula,isthemedievalAbbaziadiPiona(tel:0341-940331;daily9am–noon,2.30–6pm;
www.abbaziadipiona.it),occupiedtodaybyCistercianmonks.
HeadingnorthintothelowerValChiavennaandtheAlpinepassesleadingtoSwitzerlandand
AustriaisthereclaimedmarshlandofPianodiSpagna,oneofthelargestnaturereservesinLombardy.
INSIGHT:COMOBOATTOUR
Slowlycruisingpastgrandvillasandtheircitrus-scentedgardensisthebestwaytoenjoy
thelake.
ThebestwaytoappreciateLakeComois,ofcourse,byboat–notleastbecauseyouescapethecongested
lakesideroadsduringhighseasonandweekends.Fromthewateryougetthesensethatnothingmuchhas
changedsincetheRomansfirstsuccumbedtothelake’scharms.Andalthoughsomeofthepalatialhomes
builtbycenturiesoftherichandsuper-richcanbevisitedorstayedin,manyremainresolutelyprivate,
meaningthattheonlywaytogetaglimpseofthemandtheirmagnificentgroundsisbyboat.
Comoisthemaindeparturepoint,withboatstakingazig-zagrouteupthewesternlegtotheCentro
Lago.FromBellagio,the“pearlofthelake”anditscentre,youcanheadupnorth(AltoLago)toColico,
ordowntheeasternleg(RamodiLecco)toLecco.
Thewesternshoreofthewesternleg(RamodiComo)haslongbeenamagnetforhighsociety,witha
wealthofsumptuousvillasownedbytheItalianeliteandinter​nationalsuperstars.Justuptheroadfrom
Cernobbio’shistoricnobleresidence-turnedhotel,Villad’EsteA[map]istheVersaces’weekendretreat
ofLeFontanelleB[map]inMoltrasio;furtherupinthegorgeousvillageofLaglioisGeorgeClooney’s
summerhome,thelemon-facedpalazzoVillaOleandraC[map],half-hiddenbyitsoleander-linedgardens
Ontheoppositeshore,inTorno,istheVillaPlinianaD[map](1574–77),anothernotablepatricianhouse.
OneofthebestexamplesofManneristicarchitectureonthelake,itcanonlybeviewedfromthewater.
Backonthewesternshore,inOssuccio,istheopulentVillaBalbianoE[map],oneofthefiveoldest
homesonthelakefrontandresidenceofComo’sTaronisilkkingMicheleCanepi.Its18th-centuryowner,
CardinalAngeloMariaDurini,builttheresplendentVillaBalbianelloF[map]onthenearbyLavedo
promontory.
FurtherupintheCentroLagoisperhapsLakeComo’smostfamousvilla,Tremezzo’sVillaCarlottaG
[map],asighttorelishasyouapproachitsneoclassicalwhitefacadewithscissorstaircaseandterraced
formalgardens.OthernotablewaterfrontvillasareBellagio’sVillaMelziH[map],thetumblinggardens
ofVillaMonasteroI[map]andcypresstree-filledVillaCipressiJ[map],bothinbeautifulVarenna.
Ofcourse,atriparoundthelakerevealsmuchmorethanitswealthofgrandhouses.OncepastIsola
ComacinaK[map],theonlyislandandthesettingforamagicalannualfireworkandboatdisplay,andthe
enchantingCentroLago,thesceneryandatmospherechanges.Theeasternbranchbecomeswilderasthe
ruggedGrignemountainrangeloomsintoview,whilethenorthernreach,popularwithwatersportsand
campingenthusiasts,becomesincreasinglyAlpine.
Severaltypesofboat,allrunbytheGestioneNavigazioneLaghi(tel:800-551801,www.navlaghi.it
),tourthelakelinkingthemajorvillagesofeachleg.Youcanchoosetoboardabattello(ship),servizio
rapido(hydrofoil/fastservice),orautotraghetto(carferry;centreofthelakeonly);buyticketsbefore
boarding.CruisestouringtheentirelakeinaroundeighthoursarealsoavailablefromComoorLecco,
witharestaurantandbaronboard.EverySaturdayfromJunetoSeptember,evening“romantic”cruises
setsailfromComo,LeccoandColico.
Laglioharbour.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
LUGANO
Oneofthesmallestandprettiestofthelakes,LakeLuganoisenfoldedbymountains;
steepwoodedhillsrisesheerfromthewater,precludingdevelopmentalongmostofits
shore.Lively,stylishLugano,inSwitzerland,istheonlylargetown.
MainAttractions
LuganoWaterfront
MonteBrè
Morcote
MonteGeneroso
VillaHeleneum
AlsomasqueradingasLakeCeresio,LakeLuganoliesdeepinthemountains,sharedbetweenSwitzerland
andItaly,thelongtongueofSwissTicinosnakingthroughthemiddlewithItalyoneitherside.Abouttwo
thirdsofthelakelieswithinSwissterritory;onlytheveryeasterntipisItalian,plustheenclaveof
Campioned’Italia,alittlelakesidetownthatremainsproudlyandtypicallyItalian.In1847,adamwas
builtacrossthemiddleofthelake,fromMelidetoBissone,takingthemotorwayandrailwayacrossthe
waterenroutetoComo.
Lugano,the“Monte-CarloofSwitzerland”.
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Lugano
Setonasweepingbayatthenorthendofthelake,Lugano1[map]wasbuiltontradeandfinancebuthas
thrivedforthelastcoupleofhundredofyearsontourism.Itslakesidepromenades,café-linedpiazzas,
luxuryshopsandgallerieshaveearneditthenickname“theMonte-CarloofSwitzerland”.Thetownis
thoughttodatebacktothe6thcentury,butisfirstmentionedin724,controlbouncingbetweenComoand
MilanuntilitfelltotheSwissin1512.
ParcoBotanicoSanGratoinbloom.
GettyImages
WorkonthetriumphantLungolagoA[map](waterfront)beganin1865,creatingthebroadwalkway
withitsavenueofshadylindenandhorsechestnuttreesfrontingthearcadedshops,hotels,villasand
open-aircafés.TheFrecciarossa(RedArrow)roadtrain(tel:892021;www.trenitalia.com)runstours
ofthecitywhichlooparoundthebayalongtheLungolago,betweenthetwofunicularsthatstandlike
bookendsateitherendofthebay.Atthewesternendoftown,theParadisoFunicolareMonteSan
SalvatoreB[map]cablerailway(Lugano-Paradiso;tel:091-9852828;www.montesansalvatore.ch;midMar–mid-Sept,every30minutes,firsttrip9am,insummerlasttripat11pm)takesyouupto912metres
(2,992ft).Attheotherend,theMonteBrèFunicolareC[map]cablerailway(ViaCeresio36,Ruvigliana;
tel:091-9713171;www.montebre.ch;Mar–Sept9am–7.30pm,June–AugFri–Satuntil11pm,Oct–Dec
9.30am–5.30pm,closedJan–Feb)goeshigherto925metres(3,061ft),uptothevillageofBrè,anopenairmuseumoffrescoesdonatedbyenthusiasticvisitingartists.Taketimetowander,hireamountainbike
tocomebackdownorjustsettleforlunchordinnerinoneofthegoodrestaurantsthattakeadvantageof
thesuperlativeviews.
Twofinechurches
Tothewestofthecitycentre,theChiesadiSantaMariadegliAngeliD[map](PiazzaBernardinoLuini)
isthecity’smostbeautifulchurch,builtfrom1490–1515aspartofaFranciscanconvent.Theinterioris
coveredwithgloriousRenaissancefrescoes,manyofthembyBernardinoLuini,apupilofLeonardoda
Vinci,includinghisversionofTheLastSupperandthePassionandCrucifixionofChrist.Inthecity
centre,theCattedralediSanLorenzoE[map](ViaCattedrale)beganlifein875,butwaslargelyrebuilt
inthe13thand14thcenturies,washeavilyrestoredacenturylaterandgainedanewRenaissancefacade
in1517.Ithasseveral14th–16th-centuryfrescoesinside.TheChapelofSantaMariadelleGraziewas
dedicatedin1473inthanksfortheendofaboutofplaguebutrefurbishedinBaroquestylein1774.
Tip
MuchofLakeLuganolieswithinSwissterritory;justoverathirdoftheshoreattheeastern
endofthelakebelongstoItaly,plustheenclaveofCampioned’Italia–sodon’tforgettotake
yourpassportwithyou.
TheboldlinesoftheLuganoArteeCulturacomplex(LAC).
Shutterstock
Libertymansionsandartcollections
Severalofthecity’smagnificentLiberty(ArtNouveau)mansionsopentheirparkstothepublic.Someare
alsousedasmuseumsandgalleries.VillaSaroliF[map](ViaStefanoFranscini9;groundsopenallyear,
houseopenonlyforexhibitions;free),builtin1904,ishometothecityMuseoStorico,whilethe
exuberantgroundscontainanorangeryandnumerousfloweringtrees,fromdogwoodandmagnoliato
ancientcamelliaandrhododendronbushes.
ThenewMuseod’ArtedellaSvizzeraItaliana(ViaCanova10;Tue2–5pm,Wed–Sun10am–5pm;
PiazzaBernardino6;Tue–Wed,Sun10.30am–6pm,Thu–Sat10.30am–8pm;www.masilugano.ch)
openedin2015overtwolocationseffectivelymergingtheformerMuseoCantonaled’ArteandCityof
Lugano’sMuseod’Arte.SpreadingoverboththemedievalPalazzoRealiinthehistoriccentreandthe
newlakefrontLuganoArteeCultura(LAC)G[map]culturalcomplex,ithousesapermanentcollection
ofartbySwiss-ItalianandItalianartistsofthe19thand20thcenturies,aswellastemporary20th-century
artexhibitionsandalsoshowcasestheregion’sarthistory.
Luxuryshopping
PiazzaRiformaH[map]isthespaceatthecentreofawebofpedestrianisedstreetsthatmakeup
Lugano’scitycentreshoppingheaven.HeadalongViaNassafordesignerboutiquesandSwisswatches,
ViaPessinaformouthwateringdelis,ViaCanovaforartandantiques,orjuststayinthesquarewithacup
ofhotchocolateandwatchtheworldgoby.
SouthofLugano
Southofthecity,thelakewindsaroundthebulkofMonteSanSalvatore.Thispeninsulahassomeofthe
prettiestcountrysideandmostdesirablerealestateonthelake–luxuriousmansionschangehandsfor
millionsofSwissfrancs–andyouhavetodrivethroughParadisotoreachit.ThemainroadtoComo
followstheshorelineasfarasMelide2[map],whereitcrossesovertotheCampioned’Italia(seebox).
Thereareplentyofhealthyoutdooractivitieshere,butthemainattractionisSwissminiatur
(Melidetel:tel:091-6401060;www.swissminiatur.ch;mid-Mar–mid-Octdaily9am–6pm).Thisis
delightfulforadultsandchildrenalike,showingthecountry’shighlightsfromitschateauxtotheAlpsin
miniature,completewitha3.6km(2.6-mile)modelrailway.
AsteeproadleadsuptoCarona3[map](602metres/1,975ft),whichstraddlesthebackofMonteSan
Salvatore.Thepanoramicviewshaveinspirednumerousartiststosettlehere,decoratingtheirhousesand
thelocalchurchesandmakingCaronaoneoftheprettiestpaintedvillagesintheregion.
Swissminiatur.
SuperStock
Campioned’Italia
In1403,annoyedbythetreatmentoftheircattledealersatthehandsoftheLombardauthorities,theSwissinvadedLombardy,scooping
outagreattongueoflandalongtheTicinoValley,includingmostofLakeLugano.Tothisday,itremainstheonlyItalian-speakingcanton
inSwitzerland.EvenmorestrangeisthestoryofCampioned’Italia,atinyenclaveontheeasternshore,whichwasbequeathedtothe
abbotsofSant’AmbrogioinMilaninthe8thcentury.AlthoughtakenbySwitzerland,itwasreturnedtoItalybyNapoleonandhas
remainedanItalianenclaveeversince.Best-knownforproducingwanderingfrescopaintersofgreattalent,itisnowbetterknownforits
casino(www.casinocampione.it),thelargestinEurope.
Awalkingandcyclepath,theromanticallynamedSentierodeiFiori(PathofFlowers),leadsupto
theSanSalvatorecablecar.Justoutsidethevillage,theParcoBotanicoSanGrato(tel:091-9431888;
openallyear)sprawlsalongtheridge,itsterracesapictureatanytime,butmagnificentinAprilandMay
whentheazaleasandrhododendronsburstintobloom.Thereareseveralwalksofdifferentlevelsof
difficultythroughthegardens,arestaurant,children’splaygroundandamaze.
Backdownatlakelevel,attheendofthepeninsula,theParcoScherrer(Morcote;tel:091-996
2125;mid-Mar–Oct10am–5pm,July–Auguntil6pm)isanotherverydifferentbotanicalgarden,witheach
arearepresentingapartoftheworld,fromafloralTempleofNefertititoaSiameseteahouse.
Morcote
Knownas“thepearlofthelake”,Morcote4[map]itselfisoneoftheprettiestvillagesintheItalian
Lakes,thearcadedwaterfrontlinedwithcafésandthenarrowstreetsandtinypiazzasbehindmeandering
upthesteephilltothe15th-centurychurchofSantaMariadelSasso.Hereyou’llfindfine16th-century
frescoes,a17th-centuryorganandmonumentalcemetery.
HermanHesse
Taketheroaduptheothersideofthepeninsulatojointhemainroad,signpostedtoPonteTresa.There
aretwoverydifferentstopsenroute.ThefirstistopayhomagetotheNobelprize-winningwriterand
artistattheFondazioneHermannHesse5[map](TorreCamuzzi,Montagnola;tel:091-9933770;
www.hessemontagnola.ch;Mar–Octdaily10am–5.30pm,Nov–FebSat–Sun10am–5.30pm).Hesse
movedtotheareain1919,livingintheCamuzziTower,wherethemuseumissituated,thentransferringto
thenearbyPinkHousewithhisthirdwifein1931.Hessewrotesomeofhismostpopularworkshere,
includingSiddhartaandtheGlassBeadGame.HeisburiedinthecemeteryofSanAbbondioin
Gentilino.
Fact
BorninCalwinGermany,HermanHesse(1877–1962)becameaSwisscitizenin1924,living
inLugano.AswellascreatingtheliterarymasterpiecesforwhichhewasawardedtheNobel
Prizein1946,hetookuppaintingandgrewflowersandvegetablesforpleasure.
ThepicturesquevillageofMorcote.
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ChocolateMuseum
ChocolateisalmostasSwissasthecuckooclock,soastopattheMuseodelCioccolatoAlprose6[map]
(AlproseChocolateMuseum;ViaRompada36,Caslano;tel:091-6118856;www.alprose.ch;Mon–Fri
9am–5.30pm,Sat–Sun9am–4.30pm)isentirelyjustifiable.Itisbesttovisitduringtheweekwhenthe
factoryisworking,thesmellofchocolateisall-pervasiveandthetastingopportunitiesareincreased.
Where
Luganotouristoffices
StazioneFFS,Lugano,tel:091-9235120
RivadalGaravell,Morcote,tel:058-8664960;
www.luganoturismo.ch
MendrisiottoandSanBassoCeresio,Mendrisio;tel:091-641
3050;www.mendrisiottoturismo.ch.
Thesouth
AtPonteTresa(asteamer-landingandcuriousbordervillagewithbothaSwissandanItalianside),the
roadcrossestheriverandgoesbackintoItaly,skirtingthelakethroughLavenaandBrusimpianotoPorto
Ceresio.AdetoursouthalongtheValceresiotoBesano7[map]leadstotheMuseoCivicodeiFossilidi
Besano(BesanoMuseumofFossils;ViaPrestini5;tel:0332-919200;www.montesangiorgio.org;Tue–
Wed,Fri9.30am–12.30pm,Thu2.30–5pm,Sun2.30–6pm).Hereyoucanseefindingsfromoneof
Europe’smostimportantTriassicfossilbeds(datingfromc.230millionyearsago).MonteGiorgio8
[map]isaUnescoWorldHeritagesiteandtodatehasyielded22speciesofanimaland54speciesof
fish.MorefossilscanbefoundinthemuseuminremoteMeride9[map](tel:091-6460854;Tue–Sun
9am–5pm;www.montesangiorgio.org).Bothmuseumsorganiseguidedwalksonthemountainitself.
SouthofBesano,thefabulousprivatelyownedVillaCicognaMozzoni)[map](VialeCicogna8,
Bisuschio;tel:0332-471134;www.villacicognamozzoni.it;SunandholidaysApr–Oct9.30am–noon,
2.30–7pm)wasoriginallybuiltinthe1430sasahuntinglodge.Inthemid-16thcentury,itwasconverted
intoacountryresidencewithlavishlyfrescoedrooms.Theformalgardensareonsevenlevels,linkedby
adoublestaircaselinedbycypresstrees,whileahugeEnglish-styleparkstretchesoverthehillbehind.
AroundMonteSanGiorgio
Backattheshore,theroadstartsworkingitswayacrosstheborderandaroundthebulkofMonteSan
Giorgio.AtBrusino![map],acablecar,theFunivioBrusinoSerpiano(tel:091-9961130;
www.serpiano.ch;Apr–SeptWed–Sun9am–6pm)whisksyouupthemountaintoSerpianoforfabulous
views,walks,aspavisitorsomefossil-hunting.
Atthebottomofthenextloopsouth,theBaptisterium(Baptistery)atRivaSanVitale@[map]isone
oftheoldestsurvivingchurchesinthelakesregion,datingfromthe5thcentury.The12th-centuryfontand
frescoesseemyoungincomparison.
Cruising
Whilethereismorethanenoughtooccupyyouonshore,itwouldbeacryingshametoignorethelureofthelakeitself.TheSocietà
NavigazionedelLagodiLugano(tel:091-9715223;www.lakelugano.ch)runsregularferryservicesalongthenorthshorefromParadiso
toGandria,LuganotoPonteTresaandLuganotoCampioned’Italia,allwithstopsenroute.Inaddition,therearemorning,lunchand
afternooncruises.TheLuganoHolidayCard(www.luganotourism.ch)isafreepassport-sizedcardavailabletoanyonewhospendsat
leastonenightintheTicinoregion.Thecardoffersdiscountsonavarietyofguidedtours,transport,culturalandsportingeventsinthe
Luganoarea.
Wine-tastingsandart
Headingsouth,theroutewindsthroughthegentlewinecountryoftheMendrisiotto,whichprovidesthe
oddstopforatasting.(Merlotisthevarietalofchoicearoundhere.)Mendrisio£[map]isrenownedfor
itsparticularlybeautifulmedievalcentre.Oneofthefinestbuildings,aformerServiti(ServantsofMary)
convent,isnowtheMuseod’Arte(ArtMuseum,PiazzaSanGiovanni;Tue–Fri10am–noon,2–5pm,Sat–
Sun10am–6pm;http://museo.mendrisio.ch).World-classtemporaryexhibitionsofmodernartareheld
herealongsidethepermanentworks.
Justwestoftown,inLigornetto$[map],theMuseoVincenzoVela(tel:091-6407044;
www.museo-vela.ch;Oct–MayTue–Sun10am–5pm,June–SeptandSununtil6pm)wasthevillaand
studioof19th-centurysculptorVincenzoVela.BeautifullyrestoredbylocalarchitectMarioBotta,it
housesmanyofVela’shauntingplastermodelstogetherwithworksbyhisson,Spartaco,andbrother,
LorenzoVela.Ifshoppingismoreyourthing,theFoxTownOutletMallisnearathand(
www.foxtown.ch).
Luganoferry.
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Theeastshore
HeadbackuptothelaketoCapolago.Allowyourselfplentyoftimehereforatripontherackrailway
upMonteGeneroso%[map](www.montegeneroso.ch;closedforredevelopmentuntil2017).The40minutetrainridereachesaheightof1,701metres(5,590ft)andoffersunparalleled360°viewsacrossthe
lakeregionandontotheAlps,withtheEiger,MatterhornandJungfrauallvisibleoncleardays.Aswell
asarestaurantandcafé,thereare51km(32miles)ofwalkingtrailsandanastronomicalobservatoryat
thetop;youcanalsotakeaguidedvisittoacavewherebears’bonessome35–40,000yearsoldhave
beenfound.Thisisoneof50cavesfoundonthemassifsofar.Andifnoneofthatgrabsyou,strapona
helmetandtaketoamountainbikeorparaglider.
ThemainroadfromLuganotoComorunsalongtheshoreforawhile,crossingthelaketothecityat
Bissone.Justnorthofhere,aspurloopleadsintoCampioned’Italia^[map](seebox),acornerof
LuganothatisforeverItaly.
ThereisnoroadalongmuchoftheshorefromBissonetoOstano–thefastestwaytogettothenorth
shorefromhereistotakethecausewayandheadbackthroughthecity.Thealternativeisabeautifulbut
windingdrivethroughtinybackroadsandsteep-sidedswitchbackvalleysintheItalianfoothillsofMonte
Generoso.
Fact
Notsoextinct–theprehistoricWollemianobilisconifer,whichreaches35metres(115ft)high,
wasthoughttobelongextinctbeforeaclusterof100treeswasfoundinadeepAustralian
gorgein1994,itslocationacarefullyguardedsecret.Aspartofthepreservationeffort,one
precioustreenowgrowsinthegroundsoftheVillaHeleneum.
AlongtheSentierodell’Olivo.
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Northshore
Thenorthshoreisabusy,wealthyarealinedbywaterfrontmansionsandrestaurantsbothheavilyusedby
Luganocitycommuters.MostofthetouristsightsareclusteredtogetheraroundthelittletownofGandria
,justinsidetheSwissfrontierandanidealspotfortheMuseoDoganaleSvizzero&[map](Museumof
SwissCustoms;CantinediGandria,reachedbyboat;mid-Apr–mid-Octdaily1.30–5.30pm;
www.customsmuseum.admin.ch;free),asurprisinglyinterestinglookattheincreasinglyinventivebattle
betweencustomsofficialsandsmugglersoverthelastcenturyorso.
TheSentierodell’Olivoisa2km(1-mile)pathfromGandriaalongthelake,aimedatrevivingthe
cultivationofoliveshere.TheParcodegliOlivi,part-wayalongthepathtowardsthecity,wasoncethe
estateofaGermanbaroness.Nowtheterracedgardensareagloriousmixofwonderful-smelling
Mediterraneanshrubbery–bay,olives,marinepine,oregano,thymeandsagewithariotofdaffodilsand
tulipseveryspring.
Afurther200metres/656fttowardsthecity,withitsownboatstop,VillaHeleneum*[map](garden:
summer6am–11pm,winteruntil9pm;free)isafaithfulreproductionofVersailles’sPetitTrianon.Builtin
1931,itissurroundedbyfabulousexoticgardensfilledwithJapanesepalms,kumquats,grapefruits,
medlarsandcedars.Thevillaistheformerhomeofthecity’sMuseodelleCulture(www.mcl.lugano.ch
),afascinatingcollectionofcultfiguresandmasksfromAfrica,OceaniaandAsia.Themuseumclosedin
2016andthecollectionisbeingtransferredtoVillaMalpensata(RivaCaccia5)inLugano.
VARESE
TuckedintothetrianglebetweenMaggiore,LuganoandComo,therollinghillsandfertile
rivervalleysoftheVaresottobecamethebackgardenofthegreataristocraticfamilies
whobuilttheirvillashere.
MainAttractions
VillaPanza
VareseCentroStorico
SacroMonte
Arcumeggia
LagodiVarese
CastiglioneOlona
ItwasinquietVaresethatthewarring,squabblingnoblescametofindpeaceamidstthereedylakebeds
andtherustlingwoodlands.Itwasherethattheybuiltmonasteriesandvillaswithlushgardens.Varese
todaystilloffersvisitorsafeelingofstillness,whethertheycomeaspilgrimsorcampers,trudgingupthe
hillsonbicyclesortakingtheeasywayupbycablecar.
LagodiVarese.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Varese
PeoplehavelivedinVarese1[map]sincethe5thmillenniumBC.Thefirsttownwasfoundedhereasa
militarygarrisonbytheRomans.Today,ithasapopulationofover80,000,makingalivingfromshoes
andleatherwork,touristsandindustry.Foraveryshortwhile,inthemid-18thcentury,itwasthefeudal
propertyofFrancescoIIId’Este,dukeofModena,whobuiltthelong,lowstrawberry-pinkPalazzo
EstenseA[map],toppedwithanimperialeagle,ashissummerpalacein1787.Thepalacenowhouses
thetownhallandisnotopentothepublic,butyouarefreetowanderthroughtheneatlymanicured
gardens,saidtobemodelledonthoseoftheimperialresidenceofSchönbrunninVienna.
TheEstensePalacegardensleadstraightintothefarlargerandwildergardensoftheVillaMirabello
B[map]onthehillbehind,hometosomerareplantsandmajestictreesincludingacenturiesoldLebanese
cedar.Thevillanowhousesthecity’smainmuseum,theMuseoCivicoArcheologico(PiazzadellaMotta
4;tel:0332-255485;Tue–SunJune–Oct10am–12.30pm,2–6pm,Nov–May9.30am–12.30pm,2–
5.30pm),whichfeatureslocalprehistoricfindsandRomanremains.
PalazzoEstensegardens.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Historiccentre
Inthecitycentre,PiazzaMonteGrappaisunappealing,withgreatslabsof1920sFascistconcreteat
oddswiththegentlecityaroundit.
Acrossthemainroad,inthehistoriccentre,the16th–17thcenturyBasilicadiSanVittoreC[map]was
designedbyPellegrini(ilTibaldi)andbuiltbyGiuseppeBernascone.Theneoclassicalfacadewasadded
laterbyViennesearchitectPollack.Inside,thereareanumberoffinepaintingsincludingascandalously
toplessMaryMagdalenebyIlMorazzone(1627).Thefree-standingcampanile(belltower)besidethe
basilicawasaddedbyBernasconeintheearly17thcentury.Nextdoor,the12th–13th​century
RomanesqueBattisterodiSanGiovannistandsonanearly6th–7thcenturychurchandcontainsfine
14th-centuryfrescoesanditsoriginal7th-centuryfont.
ThewarmemorialarchoppositethebasilicaleadsthroughtothePiazzadelPodestàD[map],where
themonumentIlGaribaldinocelebratesafamousvictoryfortheRisorgimentowhenGaribaldiandhis
AlpineHuntersdefeatedtheAustriansattheBattleofBiumoinVareseon26May1859.Thisinturnleads
tothearcadedpedestrianstreetofCorsoMatteotti,linedbyupmarketboutiquesandteashops.
The17th-centurybelltowerofBasilicadiSanVittore.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
VillaPanza
InBiumo,onthenorthernedgeofthehistoriccentre,theextravagantlynamedVillaMenafoglioLitta
PanzaE[map](PiazzaLitta1;tel:0332-283960;www.fondoambiente.it;Feb–mid-DecTue–Sun10am–
6pm,lastentry5.15pm,guidedvisitsonpriorbooking)wasbuiltinthemid-18thcenturybyMarquis
PaoloAntonioMenafoglio.Itwasextendedin1830byneoclassicalarchitectLuigiCanonica,during
whichtimethemoreformalItaliangardenswerealsoredesignedinkeepingwiththethenfashionable
softerEnglishlandscapegardens.
Whilethehouseandgardenarebothundoubtedlybeautiful,thepropertyischieflyfamousforits
world-classcollectionofmodernart(CollezionePanza;foropeningtimes,seevilla),begunby
GiuseppePanzadiBiumointhe1950s.Takethefreeaudioguideoryouwon’thaveacluewhatyouare
lookingat.Thisisartofthesquare-monochrome-canvas-neon-tube-and-lots-of-background-explanation
variety,butlikeitorloatheit,itfitsinfascinatingcounterpointwiththeflamboyanceofthevillaitself.
Where
TouristOffices
VareseViaRomagnosi9;tel:033-2281913.
AeroportodiMalpensaTerminal1;tel:02-58580506.
GavirateStazioneFNM,piazzaDante1;tel:033-2744707.
www.vareselandoftourism.it.
HolyMounts
TheSacriMonti,or“SacredMountains”,areanunusualfeatureofthelakes.Linkingshrinesandtinychapelsfilledwithlife-size
terracottafiguresandfrescoes,theyaredevotionalrouteswhichevokethesymbolicjourneythroughtheHolyLand.Attheendofthe
15thcentury,ChristiansweretoofearfultogoonpilgrimagesinMuslim-controlledterritoryso,ingeniously,theHolyLand,Jerusalemand
Palestinewererecreatedathome.AftertheCouncilofTrent(1545–63),theemphasisshiftedtoavigorousdefenceofCatholicism,
whichprovokedanewwaveofHolyMountsdedicatedtoChrist,theVirginandsaints.“SacroMonte”isamisleadingterm,asitisnota
mysticalspotfoundinnature,butonecreatedthere.
NextdoortoVillaPanzaaretwoothergrand18th–19th-centuryhouses,theVillePonti.Theyare
usedasaconferencecentreandareusuallyclosedtothepublicbutthegardensareopen.
TheroadwestfromVaresetowardsGavirateandLavenopassesthesplendidlydecorativeVilla
Recalcati,inCasbeno,builtinthe18thcenturyasaprivateresidence,transformedintotheGrandHotel
Excelsiorin1874andnowtheseatoftheprovincialgovernmentandprefecture.
ChapelIV,SacroMonte.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
NorthofVarese
Justnorthwestofthecity,theSacroMonte2[map]isoneofnineholymountsinthelakesregion(see
box).ThefirstchapeltoSantaMariawasbuiltbySant’Ambrogiointhe6thcentury.A15th-century
conventandchurchwasjoinedin1604bytheprocessionalwayof14chapels,representingthemysteries
oftherosary.OverseenbyarchitectGiuseppeBernascone,manydifferentarchitects,sculptorsandartists
workedontheproject.Theresultisanawe-inspiringworkofdevotion.Walkuppastthechapelsifyou
arefeelingfit,ordriveortakethecablecartothetoptoseetheview,andvisitthesanctuaryandvillage
ofSantaMariadelMonte,whichalsohasfineviewsandrestaurants.TheMuseoBaroffio(tel:0332-212
042,www.museobaroffio.it;mid-Mar–OctThu,Sat–Sun9.30am–12.30pm,3–6.30pmorbyappointment,
May–SeptalsoTue–Wed3–6.30pm)displaysthepilgrimofferings.
Where
Thepaintedvillages(paesidipinti)ofVareseprovince,whereartistshavepaintedthewalls
andhousesforalltosee,aredelightful.TheyincludeSanFermodistrictinVaresecity,
BoarezzodistrictinValgannatown,BrunellointheValbossaValley,Runo(Dumenza),Olona
andMarchirolo,neartheSwissborder.TheAssociazioneItalianaPaesiDipinti(Italian
AssociationofPaintedVillages,tel:0332-289755)encouragesandpromotesthisthriving
moderntradition.
Arcumeggiaislikeanoutdoorgallery.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Beyondthis,theParcoRegionaleCampodeiFiori3[map](tel:0332-435386)culminatesinPico
Paradiso(ParadisePeak;1,227metres/4,026ft),hometoanastronomicalobservatory.Theoncesplendid
GrandHotelCampodeiFiori,designedbyGiuseppeSommarugain1910–12andafineexampleof
Libertystyle,haslongsinceceasedtobeahotel,andnowmakesaperfectmastforsatelliteTVstations
andmobile-phonecompaniesintheregion.Elsewhereonthemountains,therearewaymarkedtrails
throughforestsofbeechandchestnut,withfineviews,andglimpsesofthewildflowersthatgivethepark
itsname.
InCasalzuigno,onthenorthernsideoftheCampodeiFiori,VilladellaPortaBozzolo4[map]
(20km/12milesnorthwestofVarese;tel:0332-624136;Mar,SeptWed–Sun10am–6pm,Apr–AugTue–
Sun10am–6pm,Oct–NovWed–Sun10am–5pm;www.fondoambiente.it)isanopulentmansionnowrun
bytheFondoperL’AmbienteItaliano(FAI),theItalianequivalentofBritain’sNationalTrust(seebox).
Originallybuiltin1500,itwastransformedinthelate17thandearly18thcenturiesintoanaristocratic
villa.GianangeloIIIdellaPortaplantedtheavenueofcypressesthatlinkstheformalparterresnearthe
housewiththemorenaturalgardensonthehillabove.Therearealsohistoricfarmbuildings,including
stables,cellarsandawinepress.
AswitchbackmountainroadleadsthroughtheValcuviadistrictfromthetowntothe“artists’village”
ofArcumeggia5[map].In1957,aholidayhomeforartistswasopenedandsincethen,Italianartists,
includingAligiSassu,InnocenteSalviniandAldoCarpi,havepaintedover150muralsdepictingdaily
lifeandreligiousthemesontheexteriorsofthevillagehouses.
SavingtheNation
Foundedin1975,theFondoperL’AmbienteItaliano(FAI;www.fondo​ambiente.it)wasmodelledontheEnglishNationalTrust(with
whomithasreciprocalarrangements),aprivateorganisationdedicatedtopreservingthenation’sheritage–whethernatural,architectural
orartistic.Today,ithasover60,000members,andthemoneyitreceivesfromsponsorshipandcommercialactivitiesisusedtoacquire,
restoreandoperatesome30properties,fromthemedievalTorrediVelateinVarese,thewonderfulVillaPanzaandArtGalleryinBiumo,
toabearsanctuaryinTrentinoandthe1930sVillaNecchiCampiglioinMilan.FAIhasnowfoundedinternationalsupportgroupsinthe
US,UK,SwitzerlandandFrance.
WestofVarese
OntheedgeofVarese,theCastellodiMasnago6[map](ViaColadiRienzo;tel:0332-820409;Tue–Sun
June–Oct10am–12.30pm,2.30–6.30pm,Nov–May9.30am–12.30pm,2–5.30pm)isanarchitectural
hotchpotch,butithasaseriesoffine15th-centuryfrescoesdepictinglifestylesoftheperiod,vicesand
virtuesincluded.Itisalsothehomeofamodernartcollection.About3km(2miles)beyondthis,the
ruined11th-centuryTorridiVelateisnotopentothepublic,butisseenasasymbolofthecityofVarese.
PicniconLagodiComabbio.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
LakeVarese
ThemainroadcontinuesalongtoGavirate,themaintownatthenorthernendofLagodiVarese7[map].
LaidoutinawidebasinatthefootoftheCampodeiFioriandsurroundedbyrollinghills,thisisoneof
thesmallestlakes,measuringonly8.8km(5.5miles)longand4.5km(2.75miles)wide.Fedby
undergroundsprings,itisrichinfreshwaterfishstockliketench,carp,eelandpike.Theroaddipsdown
tothelakethroughthereed-bedseverynowandthen,butitisencircledbyawalkingandcyclingtrack
popularwithpicnickersandjoggers.
InGavirate8[map],therestful12th-centuryVoltorreCloisterisallthatremainsofanoldCluniac
monastery,whileinthecentreofthelake,onitsonlyisland,IsolaVirginia,asmallmuseummarksa
NeolithicandBronzeAgesettlement(tel:0332-255485;boatservicefromBiandronno,Apr–OctSat–
Sun).
Ashortdistancetothesouthwestaretwomoresmalllakes,LagodiMonate9[map],saidtohave
someoftheclearestwatersinItaly,andLagodiComabbio)[map],renownedforitsfloatingvegetation,
includingwaterchestnuts,andforbeingshallowenoughtofreezeinwinter.
SouthofVarese
Southofthecity,headacrosstheplaintoCastiglioneOlona![map](www.castiglioneolona.it),
originallyaRomanfortressbeforetheViscontis,TorrianiandCastiglionefamiliesleftitwitharich
legacyofmedievalandRenaissanceart,includingamasterlycycleof15th-centuryfrescoesonthelifeof
JohntheBaptistintheBaptisteryoftheCollegiata(Apr–SeptTue–Sun10am–1pm,3–6pm,Oct–Mar
Tue–Sat9.30am–12.30pm,2.30–5.30pm,Sun10am–1pm,3–6pm;www.museocollegiata.it)andsecular
scenes,inthePalazzoBrandaCastiglioni(MuseoCivico;Apr–SeptTue–Sat9am–noon,3–6pm,Sun
10.30am–12.30pm,3–6pm,Oct–MarTue–Sat9am–noon,3–6pm,Sun3–6pm),bothbyMasolino.
ThePalazzoCastiglioniofMonteruzzo(CortedelDoro)isnowhometoanultra-modernand
innovativeMuseod’ArtePlastica(PlasticArtMuseum;samehoursasabove).
Alittlefurtherdowntheroad,theMonasterodiTorba@[map](TorbaMonastery,GornateOlona;
15km/10milessouthofVarese;tel:0331-820301;www.fondoambiente.it;Wed–SunMar–Sept10am–
6pm,Oct–Nov10am–5pm)wasalateRomanoutpostwithdefensivewallsfromtheGothsand
Longobards(5th–6thcenturies)thatbecameaBenedictinemonasteryinthe8th–13thcenturies,and
featuresrare8th-centuryfrescoesinthetower.ItwasmadeaUnescoWorldHeritagesitein2011.
VirtuallynothingremainsofnearbyCastelseprio£[map](ViaCastelVecchio58;tel:0331-820438;
www.castelseprio.net;Feb–NovTue–Fri8.30am–7.30pm,Sat8.30am–7pm,Sun9.45am–6pm,Dec–Jan
Tue–Fri8.30am–4pm,Sun9.15am–2.45pm;free),onceaRomanfort,thenasignificantmedievalcitadel
untilitsdestructioninthe13thcentury.Nowanarchaeologicalpark,itsfameresidesinonelittlechurch,
SantaMariaForisPortas(Feb–NovTue–Fri8.30am–7pm,Sat8.30am–2.30pm,5.30–7pm,Sun
9.45am–2.30pm,5.30–6pm,Dec–JanTue–Fri8.30am–6pm,Sun9.15am–2.45pm;free)–forisportas
means‘outsidethegates’.Thechurchisthoughttodatefromtheearly9thcenturyandisdecoratedwith
superbByzantine-stylefrescoes,unlikeanythingelseintheregion.Concealedforcenturiesuntiltheir
discoveryin1944,theseuniqueartworkshaveelevatedthechurchtoUnescoWorldHeritagestatus.
PalazzoBrandaCastiglioni.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
TheAdorationoftheMagifrescoinsideSantaMariaForisPortas.
GettyImages
LAKEMAGGIORE
“Whenamanhasaheartandashirt,heshouldselltheshirtinordertovisitLake
Maggiore,”saidStendhal.Theluxuriouslakesidevillas,verdantgardensandjewel-like
islandshavebeenattractingvisitorsforcenturies.
MainAttractions
StatueofSanCarloBorromeo
MonteMottarone
IsolaBella
IsolaMadre
VillaTaranto
FerroviadiCentovalli
SantaCaterinadelSasso
ItmaybecalledMaggiore(Majoror“thegreatest”),butLakeMaggioreisn’tthebiggestoftheItalian
Lakes.ThathonourgoestoGarda.Infact,tomostofthelocals,thelakeisknownasVerbano,a
throwbacktoitsRomannamethathasneverquitebeenshakenoff.Nevertheless,itisstillaverylarge
lake,upto65km(40miles)longby12km(7.5miles)wide,withatotalareaof212sqkm(82sqmiles).
Atitsdeepest,nearGhiffa,itis372metres(1,221ft).Liketheothergreatlakes,itwascreatedby
glaciers,leavingalongnarrowfootprintthroughsteep-sidedmountains.Thenorthernfifthofthelakeisin
Switzerland,thewesternshoreisinPiedmontandtheeasternshoreinLombardy.
SantaCaterinadelSasso.
Shutterstock
Thewesternshore
Arona1[map]isagiantbronzeandcopperstatuebyGiovanniBattistaCrespiofSanCarloBorromeo
(Apr–Septdaily9am–12.20pm,2–6.15pm,OctSat–Sun9am–12.30pm,2–6.15pm,Mar,NovSat–Sun
9am–12.30pm,2–4.30pm,DecSun9am–12.30pm,2–4.30pm;www.statuasancarlo.it),theéminence
griseoftheCounter-Reformation.YoucanclimbupthroughSanCarlone(BigStCharlie),asheis
cheerfullyknown,andpeeroutacrossthelakethroughhiseyes–orindeedhisnose.Flaubertwasfar
fromentranced:“Big,nasty,easilypainted,bigearsstickingoutfromthehead,”henotedinhisdiary.
StatueofSanCarloBorromeo,Arona.
Fotolia
Aronaisabusy,ratherindustrialtown,butithasaprettylakesidepromenadeonthemainsquarewith
afineviewacrosstotheRoccaBorreomeo.Napoleononcestayedintheelegant18th-centuryVillaPonti
,builtintothebattlementsoftheRoccaandnowusedforartexhibitionsandconcerts.
Stresa
Fromhere,theroadwindsnorth,huggingthelakeshorethroughthelittleresorttownsofMeina,Lesaand
BelgiratetoStresa2[map],thelargestresortonthelake,itsshorelinedforkilometresbyhotelsfromthe
ultra-grandtothedecidedlyprosaic.Knownforcenturiesas“thepearlofVerbano”inbrochure-speak,it
hasimmensecharmbutsurprisinglylittleelseinthewayofsights–oneofthoseplacesthatwastakenup
byearlytravelwritersandbecametrendywithtravellersontheGrandTourandhasmanagedtotradeon
reputationeversince.Onlyafewfragmentsofthecastlewallsremain,inthegroundsofVillaPallavicino
(tel:0323-31533;www.parcozoopallavicino.it;dailymid-Mar–Oct9am–7pm,lastentry5pm),justsouth
oftown,awonderfulcombinationofbotanicalgardenandzoo,withchildren’splayground,restaurantand
picnicareas.AlittleroadtrainconnectstheparkwiththePiazzaleImbarcadero(bytheferry).
Northofthetowncentreisthecablecar(closedatthetimeofwriting,checkreopeningtimesatthe
touristoffice)upMonteMottarone3[map](1,491metres/4,892ft),arealoutdoorplayground,with
mountainbikingandrock-climbinginsummer,andskiinginwinter–andfabulousviewsacrosstothe
Alps,althoughthereisnoviewingplatformatthetopstation.
HalfwayupMonteMottarone,istheGiardinoBotanicoAlpinia4[map](PiazzaleLido8;tel:0323927173;www.giardinobotanicoalpinia.altervista.org;Apr9–Oct9daily9.30am–1pm)which,aswellas
lakeviews,hasasuperbcollectionoftinyplantsandflowerswhichflourishathighaltitudeacrossthe
world.ThegardencanbereachedonfootorbyminibusfromStresa.IfdrivingtoLakeOrta,abizarre
extrastopmightbeattheMuseodell’OmbrelloedelParasole(ViaGolfPanorama2,Gignese;tel:032389622;www.gignese.it/museo;Tue–Sun10am–noon,3–6pm),hometoover1,000umbrellasand
parasols.
Fact
SanCarloBorromeo(1538–84)wasthesonofCountGiulioandMargheritade’Medici,the
ArchbishopofMilan,andoneofthepresidinginfluencesovertheCouncilofTrent,buthealso
devotedhimselfgenuinelytoservingthepoorthroughouthislife,particularlyduringtheplague
epidemicof1576.Hewouldprobablyhavehatedthestatueandtheglasscoffininwhichhe
liesinMilanDuomo.
IsolaBella.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Atrioofislands
Justoffshore,inaribbonheadingnorthfromStresa,arethreeislands,twoofthemhometosomeofthe
finestpalacesandgardensinthelakesregion.FerriesruntoallthreefromStresaandPallanza(buya
jointtickettosavequeuingtime).
ThelargestandclosestislandtoStresaisIsolaBella5[map]www.borromeo​turismo.it;mid-Mar–late
Octdaily9am–5.30pm),namedafterIsabellaD’Adda,wifeofCarloIII(1586–1652).Thecountdecided
totransformtherockyisletintoamonumentalBaroquepalacewithgardens.Its10formaltiersof
planting,thatinvolvedrebuildingtheentireisland,aremeanttomimicthedecksofaship.Workbeganin
1632butthefinaltoucheswereonlyaddedtothepalaceitselfin1959.Thehouseisstillfulloftreasures,
giltandstuccoworkbutisratherlifeless.However,thegardenisatoweringpyramidoffountainsand
walkways,topiaryandcolourthatconstantlydelight–aperfectlypreserved17th-centuryBaroqueItalian
garden.
Where
Touristoffices
Stresa:PiazzaMarconi16;tel:0323-31308.
Locarno:PiazzaStazione,SBBRailway
Station;tel:+41848-091091.
Angera:ViaMarconi2;tel:0331-931915.
Luino:ViaPieroChiara1;tel:0332-530019.
Nearby,theIsoladeiPescatori(Fishermen’sIsland)6[map]isamuchhumbleraffair,simplyan
islandinhabitedtothisdaybyafishingcommunity,althoughthereisastrongsidelineintourismand
restaurants.Itisacharmingplacetowander,withfineviews,excellentfishrestaurantsandacoupleof
smallswimmingbeaches.
Alittletothenorth,nearPallanza,workonIsolaMadre7[map](tel:0323-932483;www.borromeo​turismo.it;mid-Mar–lateOctdaily9am–5.30pm)beganin1501withCountLancellottoBorromeo.This
isamuchlessformalgarden,moreEnglishinstyle,withwhitepeacocksroamingthelawnsand
spectaculardisplaysofcamellias,rhododendronsandazaleasinseason.
Nexttothegreathouse,Europe’slargestKashmircypress,avictimofstorms,isclingingperilouslyto
lifeandisspendingyearsintraction,inanattempttowelditbacktostrength.Withinthepalazzoitselfare
roomsfilledwithpuppettheatresandmarionettes,partofthefamily’sobsessionwithdolls.
ViewofLakeMaggioreovertherooftopsofStresa.
Shutterstock
Backontheshore
JustnorthofStresaisBaveno8[map],aquietlyelegantresorttown,renownedforitspinkgranite,which
hasbeenquarriedforexportaroundtheworldtoadornbuildingsfromBangkoktoNewYork.Itisalso
knownforitsstringofelegantwaterfrontvillas,mostofwhicharestillinprivatehands,andbestadmired
fromthewater.Justnorthofhere,thecoastroadswingsacrosstojointhemotorwayatGravellonaToce,
arathergrimareathatisveryusefulforeverydayshopping,ringedwithsupermarketsandshoppingmalls.
LakeMergozzo
AsideroadleadsofftolittleLagoMergozzo9[map],onceagulfofMaggiorethatgotcutoffandnow
reputedtohavesomeofItaly’scleanestwater(motorboatsareforbidden).Mergozzovillageisan
enchantingplacefilledwithancientstonehouses.Itisnearherethatthepinky-greyCandogliomarble
usedtobuildMilanDuomowasquarried.Aboutanhour’swalkfromthevillage,alongamuletrack,in
thetinyhamletofMontorfano,the12th-centurychurchofSanGiovanniisaRomanesquejewel,
untouchedbytime,withfinepanoramicviews.
Thesedimentaryreed-bedswhichcutoffLakeMergozzofromthemainlakeandstillfilterthewater
arenowprotectedbythe360-hectare(890-acre)RiservaNaturalediFondotoce(openaccess),which
nurturesarichvarietyofbirdlife,nativeandmigratory,andflora,includingwaterchestnuts.Itisbest
exploredonfootorbicycle.Thenearestplacetohireabikewouldbeinoneofthecoastaltownssuchas
Stresa;manyhotelsofferbikestotheirguestsandthereareplentyofagenciestochoosefrom.
AncientstonehousesinMergozzoVillage.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Verbania
VerbaniawasrechristenedbyMussoliniaspartofhislinguisticcampaigntorevivethegloriesofancient
Rome;itcomprisesseveralresortsbunchedaroundPallanza.Itisaprettyplaceforawalkwithagood
Fridaymarket,butthemainreasonforvisitingarethegloriousgardensofVillaTaranto)[map](tel:
0323-404555;www.villataranto.it;gardens:mid-Mar–Septdaily8.30am–6.30pm,Oct–Nov9am–4pm;
villaclosedtopublic).ThegardenswerethebrainchildofaScot,CaptainMcEachern,whoboughtthe
villa,inthecentreofPallanza,in1931,andbeganimportingplantsfromacrosstheglobe,including
nearly1,000whichhadneverbeforebeencultivatedinItaly.
Altogether,therearenearly20,000varietieshere,makingitagardenofbotanicalimportanceaswell
asgreatbeauty.DuringtheannualTulipWeek(lateApril),everyfifthadulttickethasastampoffering
themafreeplant.
Nationalparks
FromIntra,justuptheroad,oneofthefewaccessroadsleadsdeepintotheheartofthe117sqkm(45sq
mile)ParcoNazionaledellaValGrande![map].ThisisoneofthelasttrulywildareasinItaly,its
racingwatersandplungingfalls,oak,beechandalderwoodlandsprotectedbyhighmountainsthat
provideasafehavenforanimallife,fromchamoisandroedeertothehumblehedgehog.
Thosewhodon’twanttogoquitesofarcouldcontentthemselveswithawalkintheRiserva
NaturaleSpecialedelSacroMontedellaSSTrinitàdiGhiffa@[map](ViaSSTrinità48,Ghiffa;tel:
0323-59870).OneofthemanyUnesco-listedsacredmountainsintheregion,thisone,startedbySan
CarloBorromeowasneverfinished,withonlythreechapelsinthewoodsofferingavisionofwhatmight
havebeen.Nevertheless,thesettingiswonderfulandthe200-hectare(490-acre)reserveoffersseveral
excellenttrails.
Theroadnowheadsnorthalongtheso-calledCanneroRiviera,towardstheSwissborder(don’t
forgetyourpassport),passingtwosmallruinedcastlesthatstandonisletsnearCannobio£[map].
OriginallyfortifiedintheMiddleAgestocontroltradewithSwitzerland,theybecamethebaseofthe
piraticalMazzarditibrothers,beforetheViscontiremovedthetroublemakersanddestroyedtheirlairsin
theearly15thcentury.
Fact
ErnestHemingway’sWorldWarInovel,AFarewelltoArms(1929),tellsthestoryofan
AmericansoldierwoundedwhilefightingfortheItalianarmy.AfterconvalescinginMilan,he
inadvertentlydesertswhileescapingtheGermans,butisreunitedwithhisloveinStresa,
wheretheystayatDesIlesBorroméesHotel(whereHemingwayhimselfoftenstayed)
beforefleeingbyboatacrosstoSwissLocarno.
ChurchofSSPietroePaolo,Ascona.
Shutterstock
Ascona
Ifyouareheadingforthenorthernendofthelake,takeyourpassportashereyoucrossintoSwitzerland.
Ascona$[map],perfectlysetatthejunctionoftheAlpsandthelakes,grewrapidlyfromasmall
fishingvillageintoapopularresortduringtheBelleEpoque.Itwasaparadisenotonlyforseekersafter
sunbutalsoforseekersaftertruth.ThiswasthehomeofRudolfvonLaban’snudistSchoolofNaturaland
ExpressiveDance,whichbecamethefocusofaculturalmovementthatbroughtartists,philosophersand
pacifistsfromC.G.JungtoIsadoraDuncanflockingtotheareatoshareideasandbeds.Theirideasare
celebratedintheMuseoMonteVerità(CasaAnatta;tel:091-7854040;www.monteverita.org;closed
forrestorationbuttheparkisopentothepublic).
Intown,alllifecentresonthelakefrontPiazzaMottaandnetworkofcobbledalleysjustbehindit.
ChurchesworthavisitincludethechurchofSSPietroePaolo(1530–4),withthreemagnificentaltar
paintingsbylocalboyGiovanniSerodine(1594–1630),whoalsodecoratedthetown’smostfamous
house,theCasaSerodinenextdoor(notopentothepublic),builtin1620;thehighmedievalOratorio
SSFabianoeSebastianohoststheMuseodiSanSebastiano(MuseumofStSebastian;Viadelle
Cappelle;tel:091-7913521;Apr–OctWed–Sat10am–noon,8–10pm),whichnowhousesamuseumof
religiousart;theCollegioPapio(justoffVialeB.Papio;Mon–Fri7.30am–12.30pm,1.30–6pm),witha
14th–15th-centurybiblicalfrescocycle;andtherichlyfrescoedSantuariodellaMadonnadellaFontana
(onthenorthernslopeofMonteVerità;daily10am–noon,3–5.30pmandforregularconcerts).
TheMuseoComunaled’ArteModerna(ViaBorgo34;tel:091-7598140;www.museoascona.ch;
Tue–SatMar–June,Sept–Dec10am–noon,2–5pm,July–Aug10am–noon,4–7pm,Sun10.30am–12.30pm)
mixesafinepermanentcollectionincludingworksbyMariannevonWerefkin,PaulKlee,BenNicholson,
RichardSeewaldandothers,withtemporaryexhibits.
Locarno
Justaroundthebay,Locarno%[map]isthegranderofthetwoSwissresorts,theregionalcapitalsince
theMiddleAges,withliferevolvingaroundthesplendidlyarcadedPiazzaGrande,hometoopen-air
concertsinthesummer,andtotheInternationalFilmFestival.Thecityisashopper’sheaven,witha
ThursdaymarketinthePiazzaGrande,asplendidChristmasmarketandmanyspecialistanddesigner
shopsforbrowsing.
ThursdaymarketinthePiazzaGrande,Locarno.
RobertHarding
The13th-centuryCastelloVisconteo(ViaB.Rusca5;tel:091-7563170/80;Apr–OctTue–Sun
10am–noon,2–5pm)standsintheheartoftheOldTown,builtontheremainsofanevenolderfortress.
AlthoughmuchofitwasdestroyedbytheConfederationin1532,enoughofitremainstohousetheMuseo
Civico;thisarchaeologicalcollectionincludessomelovelyRomanglassandpottery,anexhibitonthe
1925TreatyofLocarno,partoftheongoingeffortstosecurealastingpeaceinEuropeafterWorldWarI,
andsomefine15th-centuryfrescoes.Thecityartgallery,containingworksby19th-and20th-century
artists,ishousedinthelate18th-centuryCasaRusca(PiazzaSant’Antonio;tel:091-7563185;Apr–midDecTue–Sun10am–noon,2–5pm).ThoseluckyenoughtobethereinspringshouldalsostopattheParco
delleCamelie(ViaRespini;tel:091-7910091;dailyMar–Sept9am–6pm,Oct–Feb9am–4.45pm;free
exceptduringLocarnoCamelliaexhibition),whenthecamelliasareinfullbloom.
Theundoubtedstar,however,istheSantuariooftheMadonnadelSasso(daily7am–6pm),reached
bycablecar(VialeBalli2;tel:091-7511123;daily8am–7.30pm)fromthetowncentre,oryoucantake
thehardpilgrimwalkup.In1480,avisionoftheVirginappearedonthespottoaFranciscanmonk.
Sevenyearslater,thefirstpilgrimagechurchwasbuilt,althoughthispalatialaffairisaBaroque
incarnation.Inside,lookforBramantino’sFlightfromEgypt(1520).Fromhere,acablecarswoops
higherstilltotheCardadaplateau(1,350metres/4,430ft;www.cardada.ch),whereastrollthroughthe
woodsleadstoachairliftuptoCimetta(1,672metres/5,486ft).Theviewsfromherearefabulous.
Backdownatthelake,L’Astrovia(PlanetsWay)isawalkingandcyclingtrackthatwandersalong
theMaggiaandMelezzariversfor6km(4miles),withthesolarsystemlaidoutatascaleof1:1billion,
offeringanovelwaytostudythestarsandgetsomeexercise.
Islandgardens
OfftothewestsnakesthelineoftheFerroviadiCentovalli(CentovalliRailway;formoreinformation,
clickhere).TakeaboatacrosstotheIsolediBrissago^[map](ParcoBotanicodelCantoneTicino,
Brissago;tel:091-7914361;www.isolebrissago.ch;mid-Mar–Oct9am–6pm),twoislandswhich
togethermakeuponeofthegreatgardensinthelakesregion.Thesmallerofthetwoislands,Isola
Piccola,hasremainedinitsnaturalstatewhilethelarger,IsolaGrande,hasbeenplantedwithanexotic
mixofflowersfromacrosstheworld,fromedelweisstotheagave,whichflowersevery10yearsand
thendies.
Thetwogarden-islandsofIsolediBrissago.
GettyImages
Theeasternshore
CrossingbackintoItalyatZenna,thequietresortofMaccagno&[map]standsatthemouthoftheGiona
River,popularwithtouristsforitssandybeaches.Itissplitintodistinctiveupperandlowertowns,the
lowersectionahiggledy-piggledyheapoffishingcottages,whileabove,withtheviews,standthe
granderpalazziandporticoesandthelittlesanctuaryoftheMadonninadellaPunta.TheMuseoParisiValle(ViaLeopoldoGiampaolo1;tel:0332-561202;www.museoparisivalle.it;June–SeptThu–Sun
10am–noon,3–7pm,Oct–MayFri–Sun10am–noon,3–6pm;free)isafascinatingmodernartcollection
withover2,000worksfromthe1930sto1990sbyover70artists.Behindthetown,thebeautiful,
forgottenValVeddascawindsuptothevillageofIndemini,backacrosstheborderinSwitzerland.
Luino
South,throughthequietresortofColmegna,Luino*[map]isthemostimportanttownalongthisstretchof
thelake,withagraciouswaterfront,severalfinechurchesandpalazziliningthelittleNapoleonic
harbour.LuinowasaRomangarrisontownandthebirthplaceofBernardinoLuini(c.1480–1532),who
becameoneoftheregion’spre-eminentartists.ThetownhashadamajormarketeveryWednesdayforthe
last500years.Behindthetown,MonteLema(1,620metres/5,310ft)hasfabulousviewsacrossboth
LakeMaggioreandLakeLuganoandhikingtrails.ThereisacablecarupthemountainfromtheSwiss
side.
AlittlefurthersouthandagreatdealhigherupthemountaininBrezzodiBedero([map],the
CollegiatadiSanVittoreisachurchwithalongandmotleyhistoryandsectionsfromthe5thto19th
centuriesonshow,althoughmostofitbelongstothe12th.Ithasmagnificentviews,finefrescoesand
severaltreasures,includingfourrare12th–14th-centuryAntiphonaries(musicalmanuscripts),andhostsa
majormusicfestivaleverysummer(StagioneMusicaledellaCanonica;tel:0332-511707;JulyandAug).
IAmNotaModerate
NobelPrize-winningsatiristDarioFo(born1926)grewupinLeggiuno-SangianonearLakeMaggiore.Thestoryofhisfailedbidto
becomemayorofMilanistoldinadocumentary,IAmNotaModerate(Fo’scampaignslogan).Aself-confessedanarcho-Marxist,Fois
mostfamousforhissharplyfarcicalplaysAccidentalDeathofanAnarchistandCan’tPay?Won’tPay!Hecreditstheoldfolkinhis
hometownwithteachinghimthe“artofspinningfantasticyarns”.Fodelightsinprovokingtheauthorities.In2004,ForzaItaliasuedFo
fordefamationafterhissatiricalplay,TheTwo-HeadedAnomaly,usedthepremisethatpartofVladimirPutin’sbrainwastransplanted
intoBerlusconi’shead.DarioFoisalsoadirector,astageandcostumedesigner,aswellasacomposer.
DarioFo.
Photoshot
LavenoMombello
Oneofthelargesttownsandmainferryportsontheeasternshore,markedbyhavingarailwaystationand
acarferryacrosstoIntra,LavenoMombello,[map]ismadeupofseveralvillageswhichjoinedtogether
in1927.Today,inadditiontotourismandtheweeklymarket(Tuesdays),whichbringspeoplefromall
thesurroundingvillages,itlivesonceramicsandfishing.TheMuseoInternazionaleDesignCeramico
(ViaLungolagoPerabò5,Cerro;tel:0332-666530;www.midec.org;Tue10am–12.30pm,Wed–Fri
10am–12.30pm,2.30–5.30pm,Sat–Sun10am–12.30pm,2.30–5.30pm,June–Sept3–6pm)celebratesthe
stillthrivinglocalceramicsindustry,whichwasfoundedin1856.
Fact
On15August1848,Garibaldi’stroopswonafamousvictoryinLuinoagainsttheAustrians.
Hissmalltroopof1,500menwastakenbysurpriseandGaribaldihimselfwasinbedwith
malaria.Hedidn’tevenhavetimetodress,andrisingfromhissickbed,hedirectedthebattle
inhisunderpants.Afullydressedmemorialmarkstheoccasion.
Athrilling,butperfectlysafebucket-stylecablecar(tel:0332-668012;
www.funiviedellagomaggiore.it;Mon–Sat11am–5pm,Sun10am–5pm)swingsupMonteSassodel
Ferro(1,062metres/3,484ft),fromwheretherearesuperbviewsacrossthewholelake–it’safifteenminuteride.Atweekends,hang-glidersandparachutistsswooplikebutterfliesfromtheheights.
Thesouthernshore
About10km(6miles)southoftown,nearLeggiuno,theEremodiSantaCaterinadelSasso⁄[map](Via
S.Caterina5,Leggiuno;tel:0332-647172;Mar,mid-Sept–Octdaily9am–noon,2–5pm,Apr–mid-June
daily9am–noon,2–6pm,mid-June–mid-Septdaily9am–6pm,Nov–FebSat–Sun9am–noon,2–5pm,23
Dec–6Jandaily9am–noon,2–5pm)hasbecomeoneofMaggiore’smostfamouslandmarks.Underthe
cliffandonlyvisiblefromthewater,itcaneitherbereachedbyalongflightofstepsorbymeansofan
elevatordugintotherock.
In1170,AlbertoBesozziwasshipwreckedduringastormbutwassogratefultoStCatherineof
Alexandriaforsavinghislifethathecametoliveinthisremotecave.Itgrewintoamonasteryinthree
parts–theSouthConventwithitsGothicfrescoes(1439)inthechapterhouseandaDanseMacabreinthe
loggia;theSmallConvent(1315),hometothemainchurch;andtheChapeloftheRocks,namedafterfive
hugebouldersthatcrashedthroughtheraftersaround1700andremainedsuspendedintherooftimbersfor
thenext200years.Thehermitageisstillaworkingmonastery.
RoccaBorromeo.
iStock
ViewingplatformatCardada.
SuperStock
Finally,virtuallyoppositeArona,lookingacrossthewaterat“BigStCharlie”(formoreinformation,
clickhere),youcometotheRoccaBorromeo¤[map](tel:0331-931300;www.borromeo​turismo.it;
mid-Mar–mid-Octdaily9am–5.30pm;charge),theformidablefortressbuiltbytheBorromeostoguard
thesouthernapproachestothelake.Thecastledatesmainlyfromthe14th-centuryeraoftheTorrianiand
Visconti,andtherearefinefrescoes(1314)intheSaladellaGiustizia.TheBorromeosrefurbisheditin
the17thcentury.
INSIGHT:LAKEMAGGIOREEXPRESS
Thistrainrideisaperfectwaytoexplorethehillsandbreathtakingsceneryaroundthe
lake.
Twocountries,twotrainsandaboatmakeupatriangulardaytripthathasbecomeaLakeMaggiore
classic.Takeadayoramoreleisurelytwodays,startfromAncona,StresaorLocarnoandchoosewhich
wayroundyougoaccordingtowhereyouwanttospendmoretime.Whicheveroptionyouchoose,the
LakeMaggioreExpressisaperfectwaytoexplorethebeautiesoftheupperlake.Thejourneyispossible
mid-Mar–mid-OctThu–Sun.
Ascenictour
FromStresa,takethemainlinetrainnorthpastthewildcountryoftheParcoNazionaledellaValGrande
toDomodossola.Here,youlinkupwiththescenicCentovalliRailway(100ValleysRailway),which
windseastthroughthehillsviaSantaMariaMaggiore(whereyoucrossintoSwitzerland),headsbackto
thelakeatAscona,thenfollowsthelakeshoreroundtoLocarno.Taketimetoexplorethisdelightful
BelleEpoqueretreatbeforehoppingonaferrybackdownthelake.Runbythegloriouslyacronymed
SwissFART,theCentovallirailwayhasbeenoperationalsince1923,atwistingtriumphoftechnology
climbingacrossbridgesandviaducts,puffingthroughtunnelsandwindingaroundprecipitoushills
throughchestnutforestsandravines,includingthe75-metre(250ft)IsornoGorgenearIntragna,where
bungee-jumpershavebeenflingingthemselvesfromtherailbridgesince1993.
Chimneysweeps
Bizarrely,themostfamoustraditionalexportoftheCentovalliregionischimneysweeps,whofannedout
fromhereacrosstheglobetoriditofitssoot.ThereisamuseumdedicatedtothespazzacaminiinSanta
MariaMaggiore,andin1997thefirstSweeps’Paradewasheld.Sincethen,thishasgrownintoahuge
internationalevent,hostedbydifferenttownsinthevalleysandattracting​hundredsofchimneysweeps
fromacrosstheworldwhodescendonCentovallitocelebratetheirvocation.AstatueofachimneysweepboystandsattheentranceofMalescoontheroadfromSantaMariaMaggiore.
Formoreinformation,contacttheAssociazioneNazionaleSpazzacamini,PiazzaRisorgimento28,
SantaMariaMaggiore,tel:0324-905675.
Centovallirailway.
Alamy
Domodossola
DomodossolaisanancientcitywithafabulousSaturdaymarketthatfirstreceiveditscharterin917.
Therearelovelyoldstreetstoexplore,andjustabovethetown,ontheoncefortifiedMonteMattarella,
theSacroMonteCalvario(tel:0324-242010),oneofthenineUnesco-listedSacriMontiofPiedmont
andLombardy(formoreinformation,clickhere),wasbuiltin1657byCapuchinfriars,witha
processionalwayfollowingthestationsofthecrossupthehill.
DomodossolaismostfamousastheItalianendoftheSimplon(Sempione)Tunnel,builtbyHermann
HäustlerandHugovonKager,thatconnectstherailwaybetweenSwitzerlandandItaly.Thereareactually
twotunnels:thefirst,19.7km(12miles)long,wasopenedin1906inBriginSwitzerland.Thesecond
(19.8kmlong)wasonlyopenedin1922.Fornearly50years,itwasthelongesttunnelintheworld.
Information
www.lagomaggioreexpress.com
CentovalliRailway,ViaggiFartSA,Locarno(CH);tel:091-7560400,www.centovalli.ch.
NavigazioneLagoMaggiore,Arona;tel:0322-233200,www.navlaghi.it.
INSIGHT:GARDENER’SGLORY
Aperfectclimateandoodlesofmillionaireshavemadethelakeslushwithlavishgardens.
Thelakevillasareatestamenttothewhimsofwealthyowners,thefinestenjoyingbewitchingwaterside
settings,whichoftenjuxtaposemanicuredformalgardenswithuntrammelledviewsofdistantmountains
beyond.
SetinthefoothillsoftheAlpsandshelteredbymountains,thelakesenjoybalmysunshineandfrostfreenights,particularlyaroundGardaandMaggiore,whereaMediterraneanmicroclimateprevails.The
meetingoftheMediterraneanandAlpineclimatesmakesforanextraordinaryexoticism,withplants
rangingfromcamelliasandazaleastoKashmiricypresses,Amazonianwaterlilies,Japanesemaples,
AfricanpalmsandChinesebamboo.Giantrhododendronsandhydrangeasareascommonas
bougainvillea,rosesandmagnolia.Beyondthelaurelsandcypresses,thewell-tendedtopiaryandwater
gardensaretheexoticaofpalms,hibiscusandthelemonssoassociatedwithLakeGarda.
Thesamediversityunderpinsthelandscaping:nothinglessthanahistoryofEuropeangardendesign
inminiature,combiningtheFrenchpreoccupationwithperfectgeometrywithaDutchtraditionoftopiary
andanEnglishloveoflawns,woodlandandbubblingbrooksandcommunionwithnaturethatepitomised
theRomanticideal.
IsolaBella,anislandtoweroffloweringterraces.
Bigstockphoto
VillaGardens
TheformalRenaissancegardenwasinspiredbyRomanidealsofstructureandsymmetry.Setinthe
foothillsofVarese,VillaCicognaMozzoniisafrescoedRenaissancevillaenvelopedbyItalianate
gardens,includingformalboxhedges,fountainsandagrandiosewaterstairway.InVerona,Giardino
Giustipresentsasuccessionofboxhedges,parterres,fountainsandwhimsicalstatuaryfadingintoa
forestofgreenery.
VillaMelzi,onLakeComo,wasthefirstgardeninthelakestobedesignedalong“English”lines.
Theneoclassicalvillaenjoysanintimatemoodcreatedbyanornamentalpoolframedbycedars,maples,
camphorandmyrrh.AwhimsicalgrottoopensontoenchantingJapanesewatergardens,whileonthe
terracesabove,neoclassicalstatuarygiveswaytogentlyrollinglawns.
VillaCarlotta,alsoonLakeComo,isawashwithcolour,itsplantingevokinganexoticmapofthe
world:cedarsofLebanon,Egyptianpapyrus,Japanesemaplesandbananatrees.Formalitymergesinto
informality,withthevillaborderedbyaprofusionofpinkandwhiteazaleasandatheatricalstaircase
climbingtothelemonterraces.Nearby,VilladelBalbianellohasthemostseductivesettingofall,its
18th-centurygardensstuddedwithcypresses,magnoliaandplanetrees,framedbywisteria-cladviews
accentuatedbyartfullysitedurnsandarches.
OnLakeMaggiore,thebattlebetweentheclassicalandRomanticaestheticisplayedoutontwin
islands.IfIsolaMadre’sfloatingbotanicalgardenfeelsRomantic,withitsriotofhaphazardplanting,
IsolaBellarevelsinBaroquetheatricality,theship-shapedterracescrownedbyafour-tieredfolly
studdedwithshellsandtoppedbycherubs,godsandaheraldicunicorn.
InnearbyPallanza,CaptainNeilMcEacherndevotedhislifetohisbelovedVillaTaranto,importing
exoticplantsfromthetropics,fromcoffee,cottonandteatoAmazonianwaterlilies,lotusesandEgyptian
papyrus,creatingnotonlyadelightfulspotbutabotanicalmarvel.
Allofthegardenslistedhereareopentothepublic.
JustGardens
Villasdonothaveamonopolyongorgeousgardens.SouthofLakeGarda,theParcoGiardiniSigurtàhas
gentleparklandandseasonalgardensdatingbacktothe17thcentury.
InGardone,WesternLakeGarda,theGiardinoBotanicoAndreHellerisanestablishedbotanical
gardenenlivenedbyprovocativeinstallationsbyHeller,anAustrianartist.
InsleepyVarenna,onLakeComo,VillaMonasteroisaformerCistercianconventrebornasacultural
institute,withbeguilinggardens.Afteradmiringthem,slipawaytothelakesideterracesofthe
neighbouringpatricianhotel,VillaCipressi,orretreattotheevenmorepalatialVillad’Este.
OnLakeMaggiore,theIsolediBrissagoareabraceofbotanicalislands,whilehalfwayupMonte
Mottarone,aboveStresa,GiardinoAlpiniapayshomagetothetinyAlpineplantsoftheworld.
LAKEORTA
LittleLakeOrtaisoftendescribedasashimmering,sleepingbeauty.Mysticaland
romantic,withitsunderstatedcharmitplaysCinderellatothebiggerlakes.
MainAttractions
RistoranteAlSorriso
SacroMontediSanFrancesco
OrtaSanGiulio
IsoladiSanGiulio
AlessiHQ
SantuariodellaMadonnadelSasso
Justover10km(7miles)westofLakeMaggiore,asthecrowflies,thisistheonlyoneofthemajorlakes
tolietotallyinPiedmont.Ortaisframedbylowhillsatthesouthendofthelakeandhighermountainsat
thenorthend.Cradledbetweenisthisbewitchingarea,withprobablythemostpicturesquemedieval
villageofalltheItalianlakes.
HonorédeBalzacdescribedthesurroundingPiedmontesehillsas“agreentreasurechest”enclosing
this“pearl”ofalake.StillknownasCusio,fromtheRomanLacusCusius,referringtotheUsiitribe–its
modestdimensionsofjust12km(8miles)longandlessthan3km(2miles)wide–makeitofmanageable
proportions.
RistoranteVenusonPiazzaMotta,OrtaSanGiulio.
GettyImages
Pictureperfect
Thelake’smainattraction,IsoladiSanGiulio,isatinyislandwithpassingsteamers,aprettyharbour,
porticoes,pergolasandslate-roofedhouses.Dragonsandserpentsweresaidtohaveterrorisedallwho
daredtoventureacrossthewaters,untilthearrivalofStJulius(Giulio)whocastthemout1,600years
agoand,incelebration,builthisbasilica.Nowitisthejewelofthelake,withareverential,peacefulair.
LookingacrosstothebasilicaonIsoladiSanGiulio.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Standingoppositethelittleisland,themedievaltownofOrtaSanGiulioisutterlypicturesqueandthe
perfectbaseforexploringorjustgazingandenjoying.Thehubofactivityisacharminglakesidepiazza,
overseenbythePalazzottofrescoedtownhalland,fromthewaterfront,littleboatsplybackandforth
acrossthelake.
Likethemainlakes,therearebuiltupareasandOmegna,attheheadofOrtaisabusytownaswellas
beingtheheadquartersofAlessi,theguruofstylishItaliandesignerkitchenware.
Thewesternshoreisdelightfullysleepyanduntouristy,overseenbythetoweringMadonnadelSasso,
perchedhighonarockyledge.AndontheeasternshoreistheSacroMonte,astationontheWayofthe
CrosstracingthehistoryofStFrancis.BothlookoutfromtheirrespectivesidestotheIsoladiSan
Giulio,bathedinmystical,softlight–thejewelofthelake.
Fact
ThebrothersGiulioandGiulianobuilt100churchesintheareabetweentheminthe4th
centuryAD.Legendhasitthattheysharedtoolsandwouldsendthemflyingthroughtheair.
OnoneoccasionGiuliano,whowasbuildingthe99thchurchinGozzano,failedtocatcha
pick-axethatGiuliosenthimwhichpiercedhisarm,andhisbloodcausedanindeliblestainon
anearbyrock.
InteriorofVillaCrespi,nearOrtaSanGiulio.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Inthesouth
ThegatewaytoOrtaanditsbeautiesisGozzano1[map],tothesouthofthelake.OfRomanoriginwhen
itwasprobablyamilitarystopover,itstandsattheintersectionoftheroadsrunningupeithersideofthe
laketoDomodossolaandtheSimplonPass.Thisisanindustrialisedareawhichcontributedinthe1970s
tothepollutionofthelakeanddestructionofitsfauna.Sincethen,however,thelakehasbeen
reoxygenated,thewateriscleanandteemswithfish.Themanufactureoftextilefibres,especially
artificialsilkattheBembergfactory,istodaythechiefindustryinthearea.
Inthecentreoftown,theparishchurchofSanGiuliano(theGreekbrotherofGiulio)hasapleasing
Romanesquebelltower.Inside,therearesomefineBaroquecarvedwoodchoirstalls,andinthecrypta
silverandcrystalurnissaidtoholdthesaint’sskeleton.
JusttothewestofGozzanoisthetinyvillageofSoriso,whoserestaurantAlSorriso(withtwo“r”s,
meaning“smile”),hastwoMichelinstars.
Ontheeasternshore
Afewkilometrestothenorth,ontheeasternsideofthelake,theoldtownofAmeno2[map]hasbeena
touristdestinationsincethe18thcentury.OverlookingMonteRosa,itliesat500metres(1,640ft)above
sealevelandisagreatbaseforsummertreksthroughbeautifulscenery,orforenjoyingwintersportsin
thecoldmonths.Itispepperedwithlushgardenssurroundingaristocraticvillas,oftensecondhomesto
wealthyfamiliesfromMilanandTurin.InJuneandJulyafestivalofbluesmusicisapopulareventonthe
socialcalendar.
WellworthavisitistheCasaCalderara,formerhomeofthepainterAntonioCalderara(1903–78),
nowamuseum.TheCollezioneCalderaradiArteContemporaneo(ViaBardelli9,Vacciagodi
Ameno;tel:0322-998192;www.fondazionecalderara.it;mid-May–mid-OctTue–Fri3–7pm,Sat–Sun
10am–noon,3–7pm;free)showcasespaintingsandsculpturesbycontemporaryEuropean,American,
ChineseandJapaneseartists,includingmanybyCalderarahimself.Hedrewgreatinspirationfromthe
romantic,mistylandscapesofLakeOrtaanditssurroundings.
Terracottasculptures,SacroMontediSanFrancesco.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
SacroMonte
JusttothewestistheSacroMontediSanFrancesco3[map](OrtaSanGiulio;tel:0322-911960;daily
Oct–May9am–4.30pm;June–Sept9.30am–6.30pm;free).Spectacularlysetonwoodedhillsideabovethe
lake,withviewsacrosstotheIsoladiSanGiulio,thisUnescoWorldHeritagesite,oneofseveralinthe
region,isadevotionalpathcomprisingaseriesoffrescoedchapelsillustratingthelifeofStFrancisof
Assisi.Twenty-onechapelsbuiltbetween1591and1750alternateBaroqueandRenaissancestyleswith
376terracottasculpturesand900frescoesdepictinghislifeandtimes.OfalltheSacriMonti,thisisthe
onlyonededicatedtoStFrancis–alltheothersaredevotedtoChrist.
ThechiesadeiSSFrancescoeNicolao(churchofSSFrancisandNicholas)issimilartothelower
BasilicaofStFrancisofAssisi,builtbetween1602and1607.TheoriginalchurchofStNicholaswas
builtinthe10thcentury,andthewoodenPietàonthemajoraltardatesfromthistime.
WithinthereserveoftheSacroMontearealsoMonteMesmaandtheTorrediBuccione.Thetower
datesbacktoRomantimes,butalthoughlittleremainsoftheoriginal,thereisasplendidviewoverthe
lakeandMonteRosafromthe23-metre(75ft)-talllookout.
Tip
TheTrenino:thisgreatlittletouristtrainisagoodwayofnegotiatingOrtaSanGiulio’ssteep
terrain.Itisalsoveryusefulfortransportingluggagetohotelsasthecentreistraffic-free.The
treninorunsdailyMar–AprandOct9am–5.30pm,May–Septuntil7pmandNov–FebSat–
Sun9.30am–5.30pm(€3.50)fromPiazzaMottatotheSacroMonteandLegro.
OrtaSanGiulio
FromtheSacroMonte,itisabouta15-minutewalkdowntoOrtaSanGiulio4[map]onalush
promontoryontheeastbank.Frescoedpeachandcappuccino-colouredhouseswithgalleries,wroughtironbalconiesandgatesclusteralongthecobbledalleywaysofthisgorgeouslittlemedievaltown.
Romantic,peacefulandcar-free,itoozescharmand,everywhereyougo,youwillhearthesoundof
lappingwater.
ThemainlakesidesquareisthePiazzaMotta–alsoknownasIlSalotto(thedrawingroom),
enclosedbyarcadesonthreesidesandlinedwithterracecafés,restaurants,shopsandtraditionalhotels.
Amarkethasbeenheldheresince1228;accordingtocitycharters,Wednesdaywasthedaythat
judgementswerecarriedoutandthatremainsmarketday.Thisiswhereyoucancatchthetreninoupto
theSacroMonte.
Cliff-hangingvillas,OrtaSanGiulio.
GettyImages
OppositetheRistoranteVenus,the16th-centurytownhall,PalazzodellaComunità,isnowagallery
withtemporaryexhibitions.Acoupleofminutes’walkjusttothenorthofthepiazzaalongthemain
shoppingstreet,ViaOlina,CasaBossi,nowthetownhall,hasabeautifulgardenoverlookingthelake.
Justontheleftisthegourmetshop,Rovera(LargodeGregori15;tel:0322-90123;closedSun)–an
Aladdin’scaveofsalamis,localspecialitiesandwines.
TheSalitàdellaMotta,asteppedlane,leadsfromthepiazzapastelegantpalazziincludingthelate
RenaissancePalazzoGemelliandtheCasadeiNanni(HouseofDwarfs).ThisisOrta’soldesthouse,
datingfromthe14thcentury,andtakesitsnamefromthefourdwarf-sizedwindows.Youpassother
housesinavarietyofarchitecturalstylesleadinguptothe15th-centuryBaroquechurchofSantaMaria
Assunta(daily9am–6pm).
Abovethetown,alongtheViaPanoramica(alsoknownastheStradaNuova),istheMoorishfantasy
VillaCrespi,aluxurioushotelcompletewithminaret,withatwoMichelin-starredrestaurant(formore
information,clickhere).
IsoladiSanGiulio.
iStock
IsoladiSanGiulio
Allroadsleadtothewaterandviewsacrosstothepearlofthelake,IsoladiSanGiulio5[map].From
thewater’sedgeatPiazzaMotta,rowing-boatsandmotorboatsplybackandforthfrom9.50am(Apr–
earlyOct).Thelakesidewalktothesouthleadspastbeautifulvillasinflower-filledgardens,arriving
finallyatLaSpiaggiaMiami(MiamiBeach),OrtaSanGiulio’sonlysandylittlebeachwhereyouhave
topayanadmissionchargeforaccess.Sunloungersandparasolsareforhireandthecafébar/kiosk
servesadeliciousicedcoffee–withorwithoutasplashofBaileysliqueur.
Asyouapproachtheperfectlittleisland,trytoimaginehowitappearedinthe4thcentury.Thenit
wasarockywilderness,allegedlyinhabitedbydragonsandhideousreptiles,towhichnoboatmanwould
bepersuadedtoferrytheChristianpre​acher,Giulio,whowantedtobuildhis100thchurchhere.Legend
hasitthatGiuliospreadhiscloakoverthewaterand,usinghisstaffasarudder,aquaplanedacrossthe
lake.Hequicklydispatchedtheseaofhissing,venomousreptiles,builthischurchandbecameasaint.
Boatslandjustbytheisland’scentrepiece,theBasilicadiSanGiulio(daily9.30am–noon,2pmuntil
lastboat,closedMonmorninginsummer,earlierclosinginwinter;free).Foundedin390andmodified
overthecenturiesbeforebeinglargelyrebuiltinthe18thand19thcenturies,thisRomanesquechurchis
sombre,theatmospherehushed;theremainsofSanGiulioandhisrelics,includinghisstaffandcup,are
saidtobeinhissarcophagusinthecrypt.Thepulpit,sculptedfromrichgreen-blackserpentinestone
fromthenearbyquarriesofOira,showscarvedreliefsofwingedcreaturesandmonstersindeadly
conflict,“StrifeamongAnimals”,redeemedbythefourEvangelists.Coveringthewalls,columnsand
ceilingarefinefrescoes,theoldestdatingbacktothethirdcentury.
Tip
Youwouldbewisetorememberthatthisisaholyplaceandtodressmodestlyasshortsor
shortskirtswon’tallowyouaccessintothebasilica.Bikinisarebannedasisswimmingfrom
thelanding-stage,asawayofprotectingthenunsfrom“eyesores”whengazingdownfrom
thewindowsoftheirconvent.
Silenceandmeditation
Thereisonlyonestreetontheisland–thecobbledViadelSilenzio,whichthenbecomestheViadella
Meditazione.ThispicturesquerouteleadspasttheBenedictineconvent(PalazzodeiVescovi;closedto
thepublic),whichisthecloisteredhometo60orsonunswhodevotethemselvestoprayer,workand
contemplation.ItisonlyonSundaysat11amthatthereligioussilenceisbroken,whenthenunsarriveat
thebasilicaforMasstosingGregorianchants.
TheWaysofSilenceandMeditation,createdbytheabbess,havesignsatregularintervalsto
encouragecontemplationandself-renewalon“theislandwithin”:“Inthesilenceyouacceptand
understand”,“Silenceisthelanguageoflove”,“Wallsareinthemind”,“Thewisemanmakesamistake
andsmiles”.
Theoneshopontheisland,housedina14th-centurybuilding,sellsrosaries,ceramics,craftsand
souvenirs,somecraftedbythenuns.
Frescoesinsidethebasilica,IsoladiSanGiulio.
Shutterstock
Alongtheeasternshore
About2km(1mile)totheeastofOrtaSanGiulioisLegro6[map],“thepaintedvillage”.Justover40
muralspaintedbycontemporaryartistsdecoratethebuildings,mostportrayingscenesfromolderItalian
filmsshotaroundthelake.AsetfromIlRisoAmarostarringGinaLollobrigidaisondisplay,butthemost
famousistherisqué“beautifulMatilde”,playedbyItaliansexsymbolOrnellaMutiinTheBishop’s
Bedroom(1977).However,sheisnotinstantlyrecognisableinthismuralpaintedbyGermanDietrich
Blickerin1999astheportrayalisofhernakedbottom.
Onthebankofthelakejusttothenorth,Pettenasco7[map]isabusytouristresortinsummer,withall
kindsofaccommodationrangingfromcampsitestohotels.IthasRomanorigins–Romanfindshavebeen
unearthedintheheartoftown.Butitisalsoknownasacentreofwoodcarvingexcellence,atraditionthat
hasnowbeenextendedtoincludemetalandplasticproducts.WorthalookforthoseinterestedinwoodturningtoolsandassociatedmachineryistheMuseodell’ArtedellaTornituradelLegno(Museumof
theArtofWood-Turning;ViaVittorioVeneto;mid-May–mid-JuneandSeptFri–Sun3–6pm,mid-June–
Augdaily10.30am–noon,4–6.30pm;www.museotorniturapettenasco.it;free).
Totheeast,Armeno8[map]isalively,moderntown,knownforitstraditionofhoteliersand
restaurateurs.Thousandsofpeoplehaveleftthisareatoworkinthekitchens,hotelsandrestaurantsofthe
world.TheMuseodegliAlberghieri(MuseumofHoteliers;ViadeiPrati3;July–AugFri–Sun,2–7pm;
free)chartsthetoolsofthetrade;hoteliers,simplecooks,grandchefs,unknownwaitersandchefs’
assistantshavebroughtbackmementoesandsouvenirsoftheirlivesgatheredduringtheirtravels
throughouttheworld.
RiverNigoglia,Omegna.
NeilBuchan-Grant/ApaPublications
Headofthelake
Atthenorthernheadofthelake,Omegna9[map]isabustlingtownandthelargestonLakeOrta.Itlieson
thetwobanksoftheNigoglia,oneofthelake’soutflowingrivers.Curiously,thisistheonlyriverinItaly
thatflowsnorthtowardsthemountains,joiningtheStronaRiverwhichthenflowsintotheToceand
thencetoLakeMaggiore,whichisataslightlyloweraltitudethanLakeOrta.Thefeistylocalpeopleare
nicknamed“thewolves”(theanimalwhichappearsontheoldcoatofarms)fromthemotto:“LaNigoglia
lavainsuelaleggelafemonu”–theNigogliagoesupriverandwemakethelaws.
TheheartoftheOldTownisthepedestrianisedViaFeliceCavallotti,justaroundthecornerfromthe
well-stockedtouristinformationoffice(PiazzaXXIVAprile17;tel:0323-867235).Therearesome
goodshopshereandalongViaAlberganti,alsoknownasViadal“Buter”,inmemoryofthetraditional
butterandcheesemarketthatwasheldalongthisstreet.
Designcentral
HouseholdarticlesareespeciallygoodbuysinthisareaasthetownisthehomeofdesignguruAlessias
wellasCalderoni,BialettiandLagostina–allwell-knownnamesinanItaliankitchen–andthearea
aroundhasseveralfactoryoutlets.Foraninsightintolocalcraftsmanship,lookattheFondazioneMuseo
ArtieIndustria“Forum”(MuseumofArtandIndustry;ParcoMaulini1;tel:0323-866141;
www.forumomegna.org;Tue–Sat10.30am–12.30pm,3–7pm,Sun3–7pm;free),whichshowcasesworldfamousdesignobjectsliketheBialettiMoka,Lagostinapressurecooker,Calderonicutlery,aswellas
Alessi’sdistinctivedesignerhouseholdgoods.Themuseumshopishardtoresist,andthereisalsoacafé.
Where
Touristoffices:
OrtaSanGiulio
ViaPanoramica;tel:
0322-905614
Townhall:ViaBossi11;
tel:0322-90155
www.distrettolaghi.it
JusttothenorthofOmegnaistheAlessiheadquartersandfactoryshop(ViaAlessi6,Crusinallo;
tel:0323-868611;www.alessi.com).Theiconicdesignerofkitchenandhomeitemsbeganlifeinthe
1920sasahumblemetalworkshopturningoutnickel,aluminiumandsilver-platedbrassutensilsand
dishes.Bythe1970s,theworkshophadbeenconvertedintoaninternationaldesignfactoryproducing
someoftheworld’scoolestandfunkiestproducts.Alessiisnowaglobalhouseholdname.Pastapots,
lemonsqueezerslikespaceships,flyswats,theoriginalAlessicoffeepot–allpiecesaredesignedtobe
funaswellasusefulandarebeautifullycrafted.ThevastfactoryshopsellstheentireAlessirange.It’s
worthnotingthatitemsdesignatedwithagreenspotareavailableatareduced,or“seconds”,price.
Westernshore
OnthenorthwesternshoreofthelakearethetownsofQuarna(SopraeSotto))[map].Inthehighertown
(Sopra),therearesplendidviewsoverthemountainpasturesfromthecastle.QuarnaSotto(Lower)is
famousforitsproductionofbrassandwindinstruments,whichithasbeenproducingsincethemiddleof
the19thcentury.TheMuseoEtnograficoedelloStrumentoMusicaleaFiato(EthnographicMuseumof
MusicalWindInstruments;ViaRoma7;tel:032-3826001;mid-June–mid-SeptTue–Fri2–7pm,Sat–Sun
10am–noon,3–7pm)hasadisplayofover300workingwoodandbrassinstrumentsandthetoolsusedin
theirproduction.Inthetown,theworkshopsofRampone&Cazzani(tel:0323-826134;
www.ramponecazzani.it)havebeenmakinghighlyprized,handmadeItaliansaxophonesandother
instrumentssuchasflutesandclarinetssince1875.
TheprettyvillageofPella.
GettyImages
Goingsouthonthelesstouristywesternshoresofthelake,youpassthroughthesleepyvillagesof
NonioandCesara.TheSanClementechurchinCesaraispicturesquewithitsRomanesquebelltower.
InsideonthewallsofthechoirisapaintingofStClementwithStPeterandJohntheBaptist,whichis
attributedtoadiscipleofGaudenzioFerrari.
OppositetheIsoladiSanGiulioistheprettylakesidevillageofPella![map].Thisisapleasantplace
forastrollandanicecream,withviewsofIsoladiSanGiulio.Youcantakeaboattripacrosstothe
islandandtoOrtaSanGiulio(tel:347-7237854;Mon–Fri10.10am–6.20pm,Sat–Sun9.30am–7.20pm).
LakeOrtaFestivals
Since2005,theAmenobluesFestival(www.amenoblues.it)hasbeenheldinAmenoinJuneandJuly–nowahighlightonthe
calendarforeveryoneinterestedinItalianblues.InJune,thereareclassicalmusicconcertsontheisland–partoftheCusiomusic
festival,FestivalCusianodiMusicaAntica(CusioFestivalofAncientMusic;www.amicimusicacocito.it).ThroughoutAugust,the
world’sfinestpyrotechnicianspaintthenightskyonLakeOrta,withtheFioridiFuocofireworkscompetition,perfectlymirroredin
thelake.Twopierswhichjutoutintothelakeallowfireworkstobelaunchedintotalsafety,aswellasguaranteeingmaximumvisibility
fromallpointsaroundOrtaSanGiulio.
FireworksonLakeOrta.
Fotolia
MadonnadelSasso
Toweringabovethevillage2km(1mile)away,perchedonagraniteoutcrop,istheSantuariodella
MadonnadelSasso@[map](usually3–6pminsummer,othertimes,tel:0322-981156).Thissanctuary,
whichincludestheBaroquechurch,belltowerandthehermitage,wasbuiltduringtheearly18thcentury.
Insidethebuildingstherearesomefinefrescoesanda17th-centurycrucifix;outsidethereisaversionof
Rome’sBoccadellaVerità(MouthofTruth)where,solegendsays,youareliabletoloseyourhandif
youputitintothestonelion’smouthandtellalie.Truthtotell,thehighlightistheviewfromhere,
encompassingalmosttheentirelake.
Eat
InthevillageofPellaonthewesternshoreofthelake,tryanicecreamfromtheGelateria
AnticaTorre–the“MonteRosa”isadeliciouspinkmixtureofraspberryandgrapefruit.
Tapcity
Inlandtothesouth,SanMauriziod’Opaglio£[map],knownas“tapcity”,andthesurroundingareaare
famousforaneconomybasedonthemanufactureoftapfittingsandbathroomappliances.TheMuseodel
RubinettoedellasuaTecnologia(TapMuseum;PiazzaMartiri1;tel:0323-89622;Fri–Sun3–6pm)is
mainlyahomagetoGiacomini,thearea’slargesttapcompany.
MILAN
ThefashionablepowerhousethatdrivestheItalianeconomyandclothestheworld,Milan
isalsoaverybeautifulcitywithanillustriouspast,magnificentgalleriesandsplendid
restaurants.
MainAttractions
Duomo
GalleriaVittorioEmanueleII
TeatrodellaScala
Quadrilaterod’Oro
PinacotecadiBrera
CastelloSforzesco
BasilicadiSant’Ambrogio
TheLastSupper
MuseoNazionaledellaScienzaedellaTecnologia
PinacotecaAmbrosiana
FoundedbytheCeltsinthe4thcenturyBCandoneofthegreatestcitiesinItalyeversince,deputisingfor
Romeastheempirecrumbled,andnowundisputedlythewealthbehindItaly’seconomicengine,Milan
presentsastrangemixoftraditionalvaluesandflashcash,theneweststyleandgoodoldhomecooking.It
isoftenignoredinfavourofthemoreobviouscharmsofthenearbylakes,butalthoughitisabusy
industrialcity,itiswellworthexploring,withsomefascinatingarchitecture,massesofsuperbmuseums,
excellentrestaurantsand,ofcourse,LaScala.
TheGalleriaVittorioEmanueleII.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
TheDuomo
StartintheheartofthecentrostoricobesidetheDuomo1[map](daily7am–7pm;www.duomomilano.it;
free).ThefirstchurchonthisancientChristiansitedatesbacktothe3rdcentury.Itwasreplacedtwice
beforethedecisionwastakentobuildthisvastGothicweddingcakeconfectionin1386.Ittookfive
centuriestocomplete,anditwasnotuntil1966thatthelastbronzepanelswerehunginthegreatwest
doors.With135spiresandover3,400statuesandacresofstainedglasssetingleamingpinkish-grey
Candogliamarble,itis158metres(518ft)long,93metres(305ft)wideatthetranseptand108metres
(354ft)tall–thethird-largestRomanCatholicchurchintheworld(afterRomeandSeville)anda
cathedralthattrulyproclaimsthewealthofthecity.Ontopofthetallestspire,thegildedcopper
Madonnina,madein1774,hasbecomethesymbolofMilan.Alift(entranceoutside;charge)allowsyou
towalkontheroofamidthegargoylesforamagnificentviewofthecathedralandthecity.
OntheroofofMilan’sDuomo.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Inside,52pillars,oneforeachweek,separateoutthefiveaisles.Highintheroofarchhangsa
crucifixcontaininganailsupposedtocomefromtheTrueCross.OnthesecondSundayinSeptember,itis
collected,usingastrangeliftdesignedbyLeonardodaVinci,anddisplayedtothepublicfortwodays.
Thereareseveralfinetombs,includingthe11th-centurystonesarcophagusofBishopd’Intimiano,the
16th-centurytombofGianGiacamode’MedicibyLeoneLeoniand,inthecryptbehindtheHighAltar,
theglass-encasedtombofthehighsocietysaint,SanCarloBorromeo,canonisedforhisworkamongthe
poorduringtheplague.Lookoutalsoforthebizarrelyanatomical16th-centurystatueofSanBartolomeo,
whowasflayedaliveandstandsinthesouthtranseptwithhisskinflungoveroneshoulder.Inthenorth
transeptisasuperb12th-centurygoldcandelabra.
PiazzadelDuomo
Outsidethemaindoors,abrasslinesetinthepavingmarkedwiththezodiacisahugesundial(nolonger
accuratesinceashiftintheearth’smagneticfield).AseparateentranceinthepiazzaleadstothePalaeoChristianBaptisteryofSanGiovannialleFonti(charge),whereSant’Agostinowasbaptisedby
Sant’AmbrogioinAD387.Onthesouthsideofthepiazza,thehugePalazzoReale2[map](Royal
Palace),builtin1778byPiermarini,wasoncehometotheSpanishthenAustriangovernors.
TheadjacentMuseodelNovecento(MuseumoftheTwentiethCentury;PiazzadelDuomo12;tel:
02-88444061;Mon2.30–7.30pm,Tue–Wed,Fri,Sun9.30am–7.30pm,Thu,Sat9.30am–10.30pm,free
entrancetwohoursbeforeclosingandTuefrom2pm)bringstogetheraround400worksof20th-century
art,includingpiecesbythelikesofDeChirico,KandinskyandKounellis,inaswankygallery.
PiazzadelDuomo.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Opposite,onthenorthsideofthePiazzadelDuomo,istheGalleriaVittorioEmanueleII3[map],
builtin1877.Itsarchitect,GiuseppeMengoni,waskilledfallingfromthescaffoldingshortlybeforeit
wascompleted.Thesoaringspider’swebofironandglassbecamethesymbolofMilananditremains
fashionabletogatherin“ilsalotto”(thesalon)forcoffee,cakeandshopping.
Where
FondazionePrada’snewpremisesinLargoIsarco,southofMilan,weredesignedbyarchitect
RemKoolhaas,whotransformedanoldfactoryintoacutting-edgeMuseumofContemporary
Art(www.fondazioneprada.org).Interestingly,themuseum’scafé,BarLuce,wasdesigned
byfilmdirectorWesAnderson.
PiazzadellaScala
WalkthroughtheGalleriaintoPiazzadellaScala,whereastatueofVerdistandsinfrontofthe
neoclassicalfacadeoftheTeatroallaScala4[map](LaScala).Saidtohaveperfectacoustics,this
grandestofoperahouseswascommissionedbyEmpressMariaTeresaofAustriatoreplacetheRoyal
DucalTheatrewhichburneddownin1776(itopenedtwoyearslater).ItsarchitectwasGiuseppe
Piermarinianditwasbuiltonthesiteofthe14th-centurychurchofSantaMariaallaScala.Ownersof
boxesattheoldtheatrepaidforthenewoneinexchangeforaprivateboxhere.Therearefourtiersof
these.Thetheatreseats3,600.
Theseasonbeginseachyearon7December,theFeastofSant’Ambrogio,patronsaintofMilan.
Checktheinternetforticketswellaheadoftime(www.teatroallascala.org).
PiazzadellaScala.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
TheMaestros
Asoneoftheworld’sgreatoperahouses,LaScalahasbeenlinkedwithworksbyRossini,DonizettiandBellini,alongwithballetand
commediadell’arte.Thetoweringpresence,however,isVerdi,manyofwhoseoperas,includingNabucco,SimonBoccanegra,Otello
andFalstaffpremieredhereand,unusuallyforanoperahouse,hisgloriouslysombreRequiem.ArturoToscaninibecametheartistic
director,introducingworksbyWagnerandPucciniandpremieringMadameButterflyin1904,whenthescenesofjealoushostilitycaused
riotsintheaudience,andtheunfinishedTurandot(afterPuccini’sdeath)in1926.Helaterreopenedthetheatrewithaflourishin1946,
afteritspartialdestructionbybombs.
TheMuseoTeatraleallaScala(LargoGhiringhelli1,PiazzadellaScala;tel:02-88797473;daily
9am–12.30pm,1.30–5.30pm,lastentry30minutesbeforeclosing;www.teatroallascala.org)hasan
extraordinarycollectionoftheatricalmemorabilia,fromportraits,costumesandcommediadell’arte
figurinestoVerdi’spianosandoffice,manymanuscripts,andbeautifulboardgamesplayedbythe
fashionableclienteleduringintervals.LaboratoriAnsaldo,theCostumeandSceneryWorkshops,are
openforguidedtours(tel:02-43353521;Tue,Thuforindividuals;bookingessential).
TheGalleried’Italia–PiazzadellaScala5[map](ViaManzoni10;www.gallerieditalia.com;Tue–
Sun9.30am–7.30pm,Thuuntil10.30pm),showcasesawealthof19th-centuryartworks,mostlyby
Lombardartists,fromCanova’sstunningbas-reliefstoBoccioni’spre-Futuristicworks.Arrangedacross
twohistoricpalazzi–worksofartinthemselves–thebeautifullydisplayedcollectionsincludesomefine
studiesofMilan’sDuomo.
TheFashionDistrict
Walkuptheelegantshoppingstreet,ViaAlessandroManzoni.TotherightattheendofPiazza
BelgioiosoisthehomeoftheauthorAlessandroManzoni(1814–73),nowMuseoManzoniano6[map]
(ViaMorone1;tel:02-86460403;Tue–Fri10am–6pm,Sat2–6pm;free).
In1850,GianGiacomoPoldiPezzolistartedbuildingarichcollectionoffineanddecorativearts,as
wellasmorethan300paintingsfromthe15th–18thcenturies.Theresultsarenowondisplaytoallinhis
home,a15th-centurypalazzo,theMuseoPoldiPezzoli7[map](ViaA.Manzoni12;tel:02-794889,
www.museopoldipezzoli.it;Wed–Mon10am–6pm).
Acoupleofstreetsup,atthecornerofViaCroceRossa,GiuseppeVerdilivedattheGrandHotelet
deMilanforseveralyears.Hediedon27January1901and28,000peoplelinedthestreetsforhis
funeral.
Totheright,ViaMonteNapoleone,knowntocognoscentiasMonteNapo,marksoneborderofthe
Quadrilaterod’Oro(GoldenRectangle,formoreinformation,clickhere),theheartlandofdesigner
Milan.Thefashionmaybenextyear’s,butthebuildingsincludesomeofthefinestneoclassicalmansions
inthecity.
ThewonderfullyquirkyMuseoBagattiValsecchi8[map](ViaSantoSpirito10;tel:02-76006132;
Tue–Sun1–5.45pm;www.museobagattivalsecchi.org)displaystheprivatecollectionassembledby
FaustoandGiuseppeBagatti-Valsecchi.Inthelate19thcentury,thearistocraticbrothershadthedreamof
livinginatrueRenaissancepalazzo(albeitwithmodernplumbing).Theresultingcollectionof15th-and
16th-centuryfurniture,art,weaponryandevendomesticutensilsisasmuchatributetoVictorian
eclecticismasitisanelegyfortheRenaissanceera.
MuseoBagattiValsecchi
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
ForatimelineofhistoricMilan,headtowardsthePalazzoMorandoCostumeModaImmagine(Via
Sant’Andrea6;tel:02-88446056;Tue–Sun9am–1pm,2–5.30pm;free),whichtellsthestoryofthecity
fromthe1700stothe1900sthroughacollectionofpaintings,sculptures,objetsd’artandperiod
costumes.
Brera
NorthoftheFashionDistrict,Breraisoneoftheyounger,funkierinner-cityareas,hometotheartcollege,
someexcellentcafésandrestaurants,artgalleriesandantiquesshops–andthesuperbPinacotecadi
Brera9[map](ViaBrera28;tel:02-72263264;www.brera.beniculturali.it;Tue–Sun8.30am–7.15pm,
lastentry6.40pm,Thuuntil10.15pm).Startedin1803tohouseworkstakenfromdisbandedreligious
orders,ithasgrownintooneoftheworld’sgreatgalleries,withworksbyPierodellaFrancesca,Van
Dyck,Raphael,Lotto,Titian,RembrandtandCanaletto,tonamebutafew.
Alsohousedinthesamehugebuilding,a14th-centurymonasterywithadditionsbyRicchino(17th
century)andPiermarini(18thcentury),aretheMuseoAstronomicodiBrera(tel:02-50314680;Mon–
Fri9am–4.30pm;www.brera.unimi.it;free)andtheBibliotecaNazionaleBraidense,apubliclibrary
foundedbyMariaTeresaofAustria.
BehindthepalacearethelushgardensoftheOrtoBotanico(ViaBrera28;tel:02-50314696;Feb–
June,Sept–OctMon–Fri9am–noon,2–5pm,Sat10am–5pm,July–Aug,Nov–JanMon–Fri9am–12.30pm,
Sat10am–4pm;www.brera.unimi.it;free),alsofoundedbyMariaTeresain1774.
Justroundthecorner,theMuseodelRisorgimento)[map](ViaBorgonuovo23;tel:02-88464177,
www.museodelrisorgimento.mi.it;Tue–Sun9am–1pm,2–5.30pm)tellsthehistoryofNapoleon,
GaribaldiandtheUnification.
PinacotecadiBrera.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
CastelloSforzesco
Thecity’srulersgenerallychosetoliveoutsidethehubbubofthecentre.Asemicircleofgrand
boulevardsisallthatevergotbuiltofNapoleon’sgrandmonumenttohimself.Earlierrulersdidbetter.
Theoriginal14th-centuryfortwasbuiltbytheVisconti.Acenturylater,theDucoFrancescoSforzafamily
replaceditsruinswiththehugeCastelloSforzesco![map](PiazzaCastello;tel:02-88463703;castle
daily7am–7pm,museumsTue–Sun9am–5.30pm;www.milanocastello.it;castlefree,museumcharge),
turningitintooneofEurope’smostostentatiouscourtswiththehelpofartistsofthecalibreofLeonardo.
Thetowerbythemaingatewasbuiltin1901–4,replacing(eventually)theFilareteTowerwhich
blewupin1521.Inside,ithasthreecourtyards,theparadeground,theRenaissanceRocchettaCourt
(publicarea)andtheDucalCourt(privateresidence).Itisnowhometoseveralmagnificentcollections
offineandappliedarts,includingsculpture,furniture,tapestries,ceramics,musicalinstruments,weapons
andEgyptianart.HighlightsincludeMichelangelo’sPietàRondaniniandLeonardodaVinci’sceilingin
theSaladelleAsse.
FountaininfrontofCastelloSforzesco.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Behindthecastle,thelanguidEnglish-styleParcoSempione,oncethecastle’sgardens,coversavast
47hectares(116acres).Onthenorthsideofthepark,theoverblown,neoclassicalArena@[map](Viale
G.Byron2;tel:02-341924)wasbuiltin1806byLuigiCanonica.Itholdsupto30,000spectators,has
beenfloodedtostagemockseabattlesandhostedBuffaloBill’sWildWestShow.
Onthesouthernside,theTriennale£[map](VialeAlemagna6;tel:02-89093899;www.triennale.it;
Tue–Sun10.30am–8.30pm,lastentryonehourbeforeclosing)isthenearestthingthisdesign-conscious
cityhas,sofar,toadesignmuseum,withapermanentcollectionandexcellenttouringexhibitions.
Nexttoit,theTorreBranca$[map](VialeAlemagna;tel:02-3314120;www.museobranca.it;Tue,
Thu–Fri3.30–7pm,8.30pm–midnight,Wed10.30am–12.30pm,3–7pm,8.30pm–midnight,Sat–Sun
10.30am–2pm,2.30–7.30pm,8.30pm–midnight,wintershorterhours)isa108-metre(356ft)tallsteel
towerdesignedbyGioPonteforthefifthTriennalein1933.
RomanMilan
AcoupleofblockssouthofthecastleisthehugeMuseoArcheologico%[map](CorsoMagenta15;tel:
02-88445208;Tue–Sun9am–5.30pm,lastentrance30minbeforeclosing;freeafter2pmTue),with
Roman,Greek,Etruscan,earlymedievalandIndiancollections.
FurthertothesouthagainistheBasilicadiSant’Ambrogio^[map](PiazzaSant’Ambrogio;tel:0286450895;Mon–Sat10am–noon,2.30–6pm,Sun3–5pm;free),builtonthesiteofthe4th-centurychurch
ofthemartyrandMilan’spatronsaint,Sant’Ambrogio(StAmbrose).Thebasicdesignofthered-brick
churchsetthefashionforLombardRomanesque,whileinsideitscapitalsareariotofimaginativedesign,
muchofitpaganintone.
Thebelltowerdatesfromthelate11thcentury,butthecrypt,containingthetombsofSSAmbrogio,
ProtasoandGervaso,isfarolder.TheByzantinebronzeserpentissupposedlytheonemadebyMosesin
thedesertandwillsupposedlycomebacktolifeonJudgementDay.Thechurchhasalwaysattractedgifts,
fromthe9th-centurygoldenaltartothereliquariesintheTreasury,housedintheChapelofSanVictorin
Cield’Oro,partofthe4th-centurybasilica.
Leonardo’scontroversialmasterpieceTheLastSupper.
FototecaENIT
TheLastSupper
Whenthemonkswentinforsupper,didtheyadmirethegeniusofthepaintingonthewall?Orwas
Leonardo’smasterpiecesimplythedining-roomdecoration?
In1494,LeonardodaVinciwascommissionedbyhispatronDukeLudovicoSforzatodoapaintingoftheLastSupperfortherefectory
walloftheDominicanmonasteryinSantaMariadelleGrazie.Thehugepainting(measuring46metres/15ftby88metres/29ft),wasto
takehim,onandoff,fouryearstofinish.Ithasbecomeoneofhisgreatestmasterpieces,oneofhismostfragileworksandoneofhis
greatestenigmas.
Leonardotheinventor
ThefragilitycomesdowntoLeonardo’sloveofinnovation.Insteadofusingthelengthybutdurableprocessofpaintingonwetplasterthat
makesatruefresco,Leonardodecidedtosealthestonewallwithpitch,gessoandmastic,thenusetempera(eggyolkandvinegar)with
oilpaint.Thiswouldallowhimtouseagreaterrangeofcoloursandtoreworkportionsofthepaintingifhewished.Unfortunately,while
itlookedgorgeous,itdidn’tlast.
By1517,thepaintinghadalreadybeguntoflakeoff.Within60years,in1556,GiorgioVasariwasdescribingsomeofthefiguresas
unrecognisable.Adoorwascutinitin1652(choppingoffChrist’sfeet),andforawhileacurtainwashungoverit,whichonlytrapped
themoistureandmademattersworse.
Restoration
Aclumsyattempttorestoreitin1726usedoilpaints,andanotherin1770startedoverpaintingthewholethingbeforeitwashaltedby
publicoutcry.Therefectorywasusedasanarmouryandaprison,andin1821anattempttomovethewholepaintingnearlydestroyedit
completely.Furtherattemptstocleanitdidn’thelp,andin1943,therefectorywasbombed.Eventually,from1978–9,acarefulscientific
effortbegantoremoveeveryoneelse’swork,restoreandstabilisetheoriginalpainting,headedbyPininBrambillaBarcilon.Theresults
arespectacular,althoughinevitablycontroversial.IlCenacoloisnowheavilyprotectedfromtheenvironment,withvisitorsrestrictedto
onegroupof25every15minutesinanattempttopreventfurtherdeterioration.
Thepaintingisdividedintofourgroups,withJesussoftlyilluminatedasthetranquilcentralfigure.Thedisciplesgesticulatewithtypically
Italianvigour,withtheexceptionoftherecoilingJudas,depictedinshadowclutchinghisbagofsilver.Withconfusionallaround,Jesus
calmlyreachesoutforhisbread,hisotherhandopenasagestureofsacrifice.
Abovethemainpainting,fourlunettespaytributetotheduke,hiswife,Beatriceandtheirchildren.
BasilicadiSant’Ambrogio.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
Where
TouristInformation
GalleriaVittorioEmanueleII(cornerPiazzadellaScala),tel:02-88455555;Mon–Fri9am–
7pm,Sat9–6pm,Sun10am–6pm.AlsoattheCentralStationandatallairports.City
Sightseeing(www.city-sightseeing.com)runhop-on,hop-offopentopbustours(ticket
validity24or48hrs;multi-lingualcommentary)fromPiazzaCastelloandvariousotherpoints
aroundthecity.
LookingforLeonardo
Somewhatoutonalimbgeographically,Milan’ssinglemostfamoussightisLeonardodaVinci’sfabulous
paintingofTheLastSupper,knowntotheItaliansasIlCenacolo.It“hangs”ontherefectorywallofthe
churchofSantaMariadelleGrazie&[map](PiazzaSantaMariadelleGrazie2;tel:02-92800360,
www.vivaticket.it;www.legraziemilano.it;Tue–Sun8.15am–6.45pm,visitlast15mins;bookatleasta
weekaheadinlowseason,atleastamonthortwoinhighseason).Ontheoppositewallisapaintingof
theCrucifixionbyDonatoMontorfano(1495).Onceinside,youwillhaveonly15minutestoadmirethe
work,sodoyourhomeworkfirst.
Acoupleofblockssouth,theMuseoNazionaledellaScienzaedellaTecnologiaLeonardodaVinci
*[map](ViaSanVittore21;tel:02-48555558;Tue–Fri9.30am–5pm,Sat–Sun9.30am–6.30pm,summer
Tue–Fri10am–6pm,Sat–Sun10am–7pmlastentry30minutesbeforeclosing;submarine:guidedtours
from10am;www.museoscienza.org)isanextraordinarymuseumofscienceandtechnologywithplenty
ofthingstopressandpullforchildren,asubmarinetotourandfull-sizedmodelsofLeonardo’sscientific
inventions.
EarlyChristians
WalkeastalongtheViadeiAmicis,thencutsouththroughtheruinsoftheAmfiteatroRomanotothe
BasilicadiSant’Eustorgio([map](PiazzaSanEustorgio3;tel:02-58101583;daily10am–6pm;church
free,museumcharge).Thisisoneofthecity’soldestandmostbeautifulchurches,builtonapalaeoChristianburialsite(accessedfromthecloister)outsidethecitywalls.Rebuiltinthe12thcentury,it
supposedlyhousessomeofthebonesoftheMagi,broughtherebyStEustorgius(SanEustorgio),9th
bishopofMilan,intheearly4thcentury.FrederickBarbarossastolethemin1162,butsomewere
returnedin1903andtheynowliveinasimpleRomansarcophagusinasidechapel.Theartistichighlight
isthePortinariChapel,gloriouslypaintedbyVincenzoFoppa(1455–68).Thecloisters’Museum
Diocesano(DiocesanMuseum)hasmanytreasures.
TheCanalQuarter
JustsouthofhereisthedistrictofNavigli(“canals”),whereyoucanseethelastofthemanycanalswhich
oncecrisscrossedMilan.Thesedaysthewarehouseshavebeentransformedintoclubsandrestaurants,
andthishasbecomeoneofthecentresofthecity’snightlife.
WalkbacknorthalongCorsadiPortaTicinese,wherealineof16Romancolumnsstandsinfrontof
theoctagonal16th-centuryBasilicadiSanLorenzoMaggiore,[map](CorsodiPortaTicinese39;tel:02
89404129;Mon–Sat8am–6.30pm,Sun9am–7pm;churchfree,cappellacharge).Thisbeganinthe4th
centuryasasquarechurch,andwasrebuiltinthe11thcentury,beforeitwasgivenitsRenaissancemake
over.Thechurchhasfineearlymedievalfrescoes,andthe4th-centuryCappelladiSanAquilinostillhas
itsoriginalmosaics.Beforeheadingnorth,wanderroundtoPiazzadellaVetratoseetheLego-block
backofthechurch.Thisseeminglypeacefulplacewasthecityexecutiongrounduntilthe19thcentury.
Navigli,thecanaldistrict.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
HeadingbacktowardstheDuomo,thePinacotecaAmbrosiana⁄[map](PiazzaPioXI2;tel:02-806
921;www.ambrosiana.eu;Tue–Sun10am–6pm,lastentry5.30pm)isMilan’soldestmuseum,foundedin
1618byCardinalFedericoBorromeo.Artgalleryandlibraryrolledintoone,itcontainsatruly
extraordinaryrangeofmasterworks,including35,000manuscriptsandmorethan700,000printedworks,
2,500ofthemprintedbefore1500.ThecollectioncontainsCardinalBorromeo’sfavouritework,
Caravaggio’sBasketofFruit,andalsoreflectsthefounder’spreferenceforFlemishandVenetianart.
However,laterbequestshavebroadenedthePinacoteca’sappealbyincludingmedievalLombard
sculpture,GermanoldmastersandTuscanRenaissancemasterpieces.ForemostamongtheVenetian
masterpiecesisTitian’sAdorationoftheMagiandRococoworksbyTiepolo.Renaissanceworks
includealuminousBotticelliMadonnaandRaphael’scartoonfortheSchoolofAthens.Othertreasures
includea5th-centurycopyoftheIliad,aswellastheCodexAtlanticus,completewithoverathousand
pagesofscientificandtechnicaldrawingsbyLeonardodaVinci.
TheCimiteroMonumentaleisanopen-airartgallery.
GlynGenin/ApaPublications
CimiteroMonumentale
OneofthegrandestandstrangestmonumentsinMilanisthevast,stripedCimiteroMonumentale¤[map]
(PiazzaleCimiteroMonumentale;tel:02-88465600;Tue–Sun8am–6pm,lastentry30minutesbefore
closing;free),builtin1866byarchitectCarloMaciachini.Manygravesincludemonumentsandsculptures
bytopartists,andpeopleburiedhereincludeToscaniniandManzoni.
SportingMilan
TotheMilanese,sportisrightuptherewithfashionandfood.CosilytwoofItaly’stopfootballteams–
InternazionaleandACMilan–sharetheStadioSanSiro‹[map].TheMuseoInter&Milan(StadioSan
Siro,ViaPiccolomini5;tel:02-4042432,www.acmilan.it;www.inter.it;www.sansiro.net;9.30am–
6pm;variationpossibleonmatchdays)hastoursofthestadiumandplentyofmemorabilia.Ticketsfor
matchesareavailablethroughtheteams’websites.
SanSiroisalsotheMilanesehomeofhorseracing,andeventhosenotinterestedintheracesmay
wanttostopattheSanSiroRacecourse(27ViaIppodromo;tel:02-482161;daily;
www.ippodromitrenno.it;free)toseetheworld’slargestequestrianstatue.In1482,LeonardodaVinci
wascommissionedtobuildthegiantbronzehorse,buttheplastercast,16yearsinthemaking,was
destroyedduringFrenchinvasions.Thepresent-dayversionwascreatedbythe“LeonardodaVinci’s
HorseIncorporation”foundedbyanAmericanpilot,CharlesDent.SculptorNinaAkamomadethevast
statueonthebasisofLeonardo’smanydrawings.Castwith12tonnesofbronze,itwasinauguratedin
1999,500yearsaftertheoriginalwasdestroyed.
Tip
TheMilanoCard(www.milanocard.it)isa1-,2-or3-daypass,costing€7,€13and€19
respectively,offeringfreepublictransportandfreeordiscountedaccessto20museumsinthe
cityandmanyothertouristattractions.
INSIGHT:MILANSTYLE–THELITTLEBLACKBOOK
FollowthefashionistastoMilan,oneofthefourcornersofthefashionuniverse.
FashionhasalwaysbeenfundamentallyimportanttotheItalians–theyinventedtheterm“bellafigura”
andbroughtinGiorgioArmanitodesigntheirpoliceuniform,soperhapsitisnosurprisethattheirrichest
cityshouldbecomesocentraltothefashionworld.Weallknowthenames–ElsaSchiaparelli,Roberto
Cavalli,Missoni,Ferragamo,BulgariandVersace–buthowtogetthelook?Womenneedhair–lotsof
hair,totossinthebreeze–figure-huggingshapes,whetherjeansoreveningdress,shoeswithpointytoes
andhighheels,andplentyofmake-up.Menneedalight-colouredsilksuitwithoutatieandamoody
frown.Bothsexesneedoversizeddarksunglasses,blackleatherjacketsandtighttrousers.
Whethershoppingorwindow-shopping,thefirststopforthefashionistaorwannabealikehastobe
theQuadrilaterod’Oro,the“goldenrectangle”neartheDuomo.BoundedbyViaMontenapoleone,Via
dellaSpiga,CorsoVeneziaandViaManzoni,thistinyareaofsmallstreetscomprisesprobablytherichest
andpossiblythewackiestshoppingareaintheworld,everywindowperfectlydisplayedwiththelatest
trendsfromthebiggestnames–home-grownItaliantalentDolce&Gabbana,Gucci,Fendi,Valentino,
Prada,MaxMara,plusinternationalsuperstarssuchasParisiansSaintLaurentandChanel,BritPaul
Smith,andKenzofromJapan.Everyoneishere;noonecanaffordtomisstheparty.Anditisn’tjust
clothes–therearebagsgalore,shoestodiefor(somelookasiftheywouldkillyouifyoutriedtowalk
inthem),watchesandjewellery,clothesforchildrenandevenforpets.Andthentherearethecafés.
Withfashionweeksheldtwiceayeartohighlightthenewseason’sdesigns,thefashionworld
descendsonMilanforafeedingfrenzyofcatwalkshows,cocktailpartiesandgossip.TheA-listeditors
andcelebritiesarecourtedfortheirabilitytogetthepublicityshots,thebuyersfortheirbulgingwallets.
Everyhotelintownisstuffed,everymodelstarving.Mostshowsareinvitation-only,buttheglamourrubs
offonthosedeterminedtogetafootinthedoor.
Manyofthedesignershavefactorystoresorsendtheirsecondsandendofrangestooutlet
warehousesforafractionofwhatyounormallypay.Stockturnsoverfast,anditcanbehitormissasto
whethertheyhaveyoursize,soyouneedtokeepgoingback.
Versacefashions.
GettyImages
MilanonaBudget
DesignershoppingisoftenmoreaffordableoutsideMilan.Aswellastheoutletmallslistedbelow,most
ofwhichofferfreeshuttlebuses,AlessihasahugefactoryshoponLakeOrta,andtherearedesigner
discountshopsalongtheAltoAdigeValleyinTrentino.
SerravalleDesignerOutlet
ViadellaModa1,15069SerravalleScrivia;tel:0143-609000;www.mcarthurglen.it.
ThePlaceOutlet
ViaCesareBattisti99,Sandigliano;tel:015-2496199;www.theplaceoutlet.com.
Foxtown
AttheMendrisioexitoftheA2(15km/9½milesfromLugano;bringyourpassport–it’sjustoverthe
Swissborder);tel:+41(0)848-828888;www.foxtown.ch.
FranciacortiaOutletVillage
RodengoSaianonearBrescia;tel:030-6810364;www.franciacortaoutlet.it.
ArmaniFactoryStore
ProvincialeperBregnano12,Vertemate,Como;tel:031-887373.
Out-of-TownOutlets
DMagazine,ViaBigli4,Milan;tel:02-36643888;www.dmagazine.it.
Daily10am–7.30pm.
Discountedclothesfromthemajordesignersintheheartofthefashiondistrict.OneofthreeMilan
branches.
DiffusioneTessile,GalleriaSanCarlo6;tel:02-76000829.Mon3.30–7.30pm,Tue–Sat10am–7.30pm.
HeavydiscountsonalltheMaxMarabrands.
EldoradoStockHouse,ViaMontenapoleone26;tel:02-76006027.Tue–Sat9.30am–7.30pm.Inthe
heartofthefashiondistrict,withmen’sandwomen’sfashionandconstantlychangingstockfromD&G
andMoschino.
IlSalvagente,ViaBronzetti16;tel:02-76110328.Mon3–7.30pm,Tue–Sat10am–7.30pm,Sun11am–
2pm,3–7pm.
Hugewarehouseoperationofferinglastyear’scollectionsfrommultipledesignersatupto50percent
discounts.
Vestistock,PiazzaleLavater,cornerofViaRamazzini11;tel:02-29534502.Daily10am–7.30pm.
IncludesArmani,Versace,D&G,Prada,Cavalli,Missoniandmanymore.
TRANSPORT
TheItalianLakesareeasytoreachfromtherestofEurope,withseveralairportslocatednearby.While
rentingacarwillgiveyouflexibilitytoexplorethesmallertownsandvillagesawayfromthetourist
centres,thereisaverygoodnetworkofpublictransport–trains,buses,boats–intheregion,whichwill
allowyoutotakeaslowerpace;theboatsespeciallyareagreatwaytogetaround.Ifyoudodrive,doso
withextremecaution;Italiansdrivefast,andtheroadsarenarrow,withmanyhairpinbends.
GettingThere
ByAir
Thelakesarewellservedwithairports.Milanhasthreeairports,withcity-centreLinate(LIN)idealif
youwanttoexplorethecityaswellasthelakes.Furthernorth,Milan’sMalpensa(MXP)airportmakes
foraconvenientgatewaytothewesternlakes.Bergamo’sOrioalSerio(BGY)canalsobeusedfor
MilanaswellasbeingidealforLakeIseoorLakeComo;BresciaorVeronaairportsarethebestfor
LakeGarda,butevenVeniceiswithineasyaccess.DespitebeinginSwitzerland,Lugano(LUG)airport
isanotherusefulgatewaytolakesLugano,ComoandMaggiore.Veronahastwoairports,thetinyVeronaVillafranca(VRN)andVerona-Brescia(VBS)whichis50km(31miles)southwestofVeronabutclose
toBresciaandLakeGarda.
Airporttransport
Bergamo(OrioalSerio)BusesrunfromtheairporttothecentreofBergamofrom5.17am–12.31am(tel:
035-236026,www.atb.bergamo.it)ortoMilanoCentraletrainstationroughlyeveryhalf-hourfrom
4.25am–10.20pm(tel:035-330706,www.orioshuttle.com).AshuttleservicelinkstheairporttoMilano
Centralestationevery20–30minutesfrom4.05am–1am(1hour;www.terravision.eu).Anotherservice
headstoBresciaevery1.5–3hoursfrom5.10am–11pm(tel:02-30089000,www.autostradale.com)for
€12.TaxistoBergamocitycentre,a10-minutejourney,costapproximately€25–30(tel:035-4519090).
Brescia-Montichiari(G.D’Annunzio)Theairportismainlyusedforcargotrafficandseasonalcharters
servicedbyMeridianaandWindroseAirlines.TransportforMantova(APAM;www.apam.it)operatesa
twice-weekly(Mon,Fri)shuttlebusservicebetweentheairportandBrescia’sSantaEufemiametro
station.
Airlines
AerLingus
www.aerlingus.com
AirCanada
www.aircanada.com
AirFrance
www.airfrance.com
Alitalia
www.alitalia.com
AmericanAirlines
www.aa.com
BritishAirways
www.britishairways.com
DeltaAirLines
www.delta.com
easyJet
www.easyjet.com
KLM
www.klm.com
Lufthansa
www.lufthansa.com
Ryanair
www.ryanair.com
SWISS
www.swiss.com
UnitedAirlines
www.united.com
Milan(Linate)Ashuttlebusservice(tel:02-30089000,www.autostradale.com)leavesforMilano
Centraletrainstationroughlyeveryhalf-hourfrom7.45am–10.45pm(alsostopsatMilanLambrate
railwaystation)andfrom5.30am–10pmfromMilanoCentraletotheairport(25mins).CityBusesNos.
73(ATM,tel:02-48607607;www.atm.it)leaveArrivalsforPiazzaSanBabilaundergroundstation
every10minutesfrom5.35am–12.35am(25minutes,€1.50fromnewsstands).LinateandMalpensa
airportsrunashuttleserviceoperatedbyAirPullman(tel:0331-258411,www.malpensashuttle.it).A
taxitothecitycentrewillsetyoubackaround€40(tel:02-8585).
Milan(Malpensa)TwoshuttlebusservicestoMilanoCentralestationrunevery20minutesfrom
5.05am–12.10am,7.10am–11.30pmfromtheairporttothestation(50minutes;www.terravision.eu;tel:
0331-519000;www.stie.it).TheMalpensaExpresstrainconnectsTerminal1withCadornarailway
stationandMilanoCentralein29–43minutes(tel:800-500-005,www.malpensaexpress.it)from
5.26am–1.30am.Taxiswaitoutsidearrivals(tel:02-8585).Alibusbuses(tel:0323-552172,
www.safduemila.com)runtotownsaroundLakeMaggiorefromtheairport.
Verona(ValerioCatullo)Trainsrunevery20minutestoVeronatrainstation(10–15minutes)from
Veronaairport(www.aeroportoverona.it).The15-minutejourneybytaxiwillcostaround€20(tel:045532666).TheAerobus(www.atv.verona.it)runstoVerona’sPortaNuovatrainstationat5.35and
6.30am,thenevery20minutesuntil8.30pmandevery40minutesuntil11.10pm,costing€6.Inwinter,
specialbusservicesfromVeronaandotherairportstakeskiersdirectlytotheslopes,butmustbeprebooked(www.flyskishuttle.com).
ByRail
Giventherangeoflow-costandscheduledflightstothelakes,flyingisadvisable.However,Milanand
ComoarewellservedbytrainscomingfromSwitzerland,GermanyandFrance,includingEurostar
connectionstoLondonviaParis.IfarrivingfromelsewhereinItaly,therearegoodconnectionsfrom
Turin,Bologna,FlorenceandRome,aswellasfromwithinthelakes.Routesandpricesvarygreatly,soit
iswisetoplanyourrouteatmajortrainstationsorwithspecialistagentssuchasVoyages-sncf.com(for
furtherinformation,tel:08448-485848,https://uk.voyages-sncf.com).
Ifyouwanttodoitinrealstyle,trytheVenice-SimplonOrientExpress(www.belmond.com/venicesimplon-orient-express)fromLondonorParistoVenice.
ByRoad
TravellingtoItalybycoachisatoughoption,withEurolines(tel:08717-818177,www.eurolines.co.uk)
offeringa22-23-hourMilanservicedailyfromLondonVictoriafornolessthanabudgetairfare.
However,bargainfarescanoftenbefoundifbookedinadvance.
Drivingyourselfisanotheroption,ifyouarepreparedforthehazardsofdrivingalongnarrowwinding
mountainroads,althoughitisprobablycheapertorentacaronarrival.OnceacrosstheChannel,the
fastestroutefromFranceistofollowtheAlpineroutethroughGermanyandSwitzerlandandarriveat
LakeLugano.NotethatmotorwaysenrouteaswellasinItalyaretollroads;ensureyouchoosethe
correctlanetopayincash,withcreditcard,orthefrequent-userTelepasscard.
Youwillneed5-starinsuranceandinternationalmarkersifdrivingyourownvehicle.
GettingAround
Bicycle
Thisispopularcyclingterritoryinspiteofthesteepgradientsandhairpinbends.Bikescanberented
quitecheaplyinmostcitiesandresorts,andtouristofficescarrymapsofrecommendedcyclingroutes.
ManyseriouscyclistsmakeapilgrimagetoMadonnadelGhisallo,thepatronsaintofcycling,inLake
Como.
TheLakesregionhasthree“bikehotels”,whichcaterforthekeencyclist,offeringsecureroomsforyour
bike,repairshopsandprofessionalguides.Seewww.italybikehotels.itforafulllist.
Boats
Thebestwayofalltoseethelakesisbyboat,allowingyoutoenjoythescenerywithoutthehazardof
navigatingtheroads,andatsignificantlylowercost.Allmaintownshavepassengerferryconnections,
andmanyarealsolinkedbycarferry:LakeComo(Cadenabbia–Bellaggio–Menaggio–Varenna),Lake
Maggiore(Intra–Laveno)andLakeGarda(Maderno–TorridelBenacoandLimone–Malcesine).Cruises,
someinpaddlesteamers,cantakeupafulldayandareawonderfulwayofseeingthewholelake.Bearin
mindboatservicesaregreatlyreducedinwinter.
ForinformationonlakesComo,MaggioreandGarda,visitwww.navigazionelaghi.it;forLakeIseo,see
www.navigazionelagoiseo.it;forLugano,seewww.lakelugano.ch,andforLakeOrta,see
www.navigazionelagodorta.it.
Bus
Thebusnetworkaroundthelakesisverycheapandefficient,althoughinlesstouristyvillagesservices
canbeinfrequentatweekends.Localtouristofficesprovidetimetablesandinformation;ticketsusually
needtobepurchasedbeforeboardingatnewsagentsandanyshopdisplayingabigliettisign.
Car
Thereisanexcellentnetworkofmotorways(tollroads)andmainroadslinkingthelakesandthemajor
citiessurroundingthem.However,sheervolumeoftraffic,theterrifyingspeedofItaliandriversandthe
tunnelsandhairpinbendsmeanthatyoucannotrelaxforasecond.TheItalianwebsiteswww.autostrade.it
andwww.quattroruote.itcontainusefultrafficinformation.
Carhireisexpensive,butifarrangedinadvancealittlecheaper.MajorchainssuchasAvis,Budgetand
Hertzcanbefoundintheairportsandmaintowns.Youmustbeover21andhaveacreditcardforthe
deposit.Insurance4carhire.com(tel:0844-8921770)isacheapannualschemewhichwillsavehundreds
ofpoundsincomparisontothedailyinsuranceofferedbythecar-hirecompanies.
TodriveinItaly,youmustcarryavalidpassport,fullphotocarddrivinglicence(andinternationaldriving
licenceifanon-EUlicence-holder),registrationdocumentsandinsurance.Itiscompulsorytocarryall
yourvehicledocumentswhendriving,aswellasemergencyequipmentsuchassparebulbs,afluorescent
jacketandawarningtriangleincaseofbreakdown.
Abreakdownservice(tel:116)isavailablefromtheAutomobileClubd’Italia(ACI).
Rulesoftheroad
Driveontheright,overtakeontheleftandobservethespeedlimits:inbuilt-upareas50kmh(31mph),
outsidebuilt-upareas90kmh(55mph),ondualcarriageways110kmh(68mph)andonmotorways130kmh
(80mph).
On-the-spotfinesforspeedingoffencesareparticularlyheavy.Thepolicecanimposethefineandcollect
one-quarterofthemaximumfine,andmustgiveareceiptfortheamountpaid.
Dippedheadlightsduringthedayarecompulsoryoutsidebuilt-upareasandwhenthereissnoworrain
andgenerallypoorvisibility.Rearfoglightsmayonlybeusedwhenvisibilityislessthan50metres
(164ft)orincaseofstrongrainorheavysnow.
Asalways,donotdrinkanddrive;thepenaltiesaresevere.
Fuel
Servicestationsareopenfrom6.30/7amto12.30/1pmandfrom3pmto7.30pm,butoutsidethesetimes
manyhaveautomaticpumps.Serviceisavailable24-hoursadayonmotorways.
Contact:UK:www.theaa.co.uk;RepublicofIreland:www.aaireland.ie;Italy:www.aci.it.
Parking
Parkingisanightmarealmosteverywhereduringthesummer,withthelakeshorescrampedbythe
mountainousterrainandthecitycentresovercrowded.Localsparkoneverypatchofsparelandalongthe
lakeroads;driveasmallcarandbepreparedtodothesame.Unlessyouareplanningtodoalotof
touring,considerusingpublictransport,whichisexcellent.
Taxis
Taxisareexpensive,andsupplementsapplybetween10amand6am,Sundays,holidays,andperitemof
luggage.Faresarebasedondistanceonceoutsidecityboundaries.Asinanycity,useonlyofficial
meteredtaxis.
Trains
Travelbytrainischeap,efficient,andbetweenmajorcities,fast.Themaintypesoperatingbetween
majorcitiesareEurostar,IntercityandInterregionale,whilethelocalRegionaletrainsstopateverycity
intheregionandareveryslow.TheEurope-wideInterRailpass(www.interrail.net)canbegoodvalue
ifyou’replanningtotravelextensivelybytrainoverseveralweeks.Notethatallticketsmustbestamped
attheyellowmachinesbeforeboarding,oryouwillbefined.
Formoreinformation,seewww.trenitalia.com.
GettingAroundtheLakes
LakeComo
TrainsrunfromMilantoComoandLecco,aswellasthelengthoftheeasternshore.Comohasthree
stations,withtrainsontheFSline(www.fsitaliane.it)fromMilanarrivinginComoSanGiovanni,a
shortwalkorbusridefromthecitycentre.RegionaltrainsontheFNMEline(www.ferrovienord.it)
passthroughComoBorghistationandterminateatComoLagoNordstationonthelakefront,acrossfrom
thebusstationatPiazzaMatteotti.
OnthelakefrontinfrontofthePiazzaCavouristhelandingstageforboatsofferingtripsonhydrofoils,
carferries,ships,andfulldayoreveningcruises,withfood,livemusicanddrinks(
www.navigazionelaghi.it).
LakeIseo(includingFranciacortaandValCamonica)
LakeIseoiseasilyaccessiblefromComo,BergamoandBrescia,withonwardrailconnectionstoLake
Garda.AdelightfultrainrouterunsfromIseotoBrescia(throughFranciacortawinecountry)andtakes30
minutes.
However,acarisadvisableifyouwanttoexplorethesurroundinghills,thewinecountryandthe
prehistoricartinValCamonica.
NavigatingLakeIseoismorestraightforwardthannavigatingLakeGarda(tel:035-971483,
www.navigazionelagoiseo.it).Aswellas“threeisland”cruises,therearethemedcruises,aswellasan
eveningoptionwithdinner.
LakeGarda
PricesonLakeGardatendtobemorecompetitivethanelsewhere,apartfromthehighcostofferriesand
hydrofoils.Ontheotherhand,comparedwiththequietrefinementofLakeComo,forinstance,Lake
Gardaoffersmorefamilyholidaysandsportsfacilities.
Desenzanoisthemainraillinkonthelake,withfrequentconnectionstoBrescia,Verona,Milanand
beyond.LakeGardaistheonelakewhereacarisoptional,withaweek’sholidayhappilyspentonday
tripspotteringaroundonthewater,orvisitingresorts,villasandgardens.
CarrentalisadvisabletoappreciatetheruggeddrivesroundWesternLakeGarda(especiallyfromSalò
toRiva),aswellasexploringthewine-growinghinterlandofValtenesi.
Navigatingthelake:duetoitssize,whentravellinglongerdistancesitmakessensetocatchtheferryon
theoutwardvoyage,stoppingatvariousportsenrouteandvisitingthose,andtocatchthefasterhydrofoil
back,whichislessromanticbuttwiceasfast.
Forthepurposeoffaresandroutes,thelakeisdividedinto“UpperLake”(includingRivaandMalcesine)
and“LowerLake”(fromDesenzanosouth).Workoutthescopeofadaytripcarefully,asthecostofthe
“full”lakespassisalmosttwicethecostofa“half”lakespass,andyoumayonlyneedthelatter.For
routes,timetablesandfares,tel:030-9149511(outsideItaly),free-phone800-551801(insideItaly),
www.navigazionelaghi.it.
LakeLugano
AcariscrucialheretoexplorebeyondLuganocity.Thereareferriesalongthelake,buttheyarenotas
frequentasinsomeoftheotherlakes.Fordetailsontheferries,clickhere.ThetrainrunsintoLugano
alongthenorthwestarmofthelake,leavingtothesouthovertheBissonecausewayanddownthe
southeastshore.
LakeMaggiore
LakeMaggiorehasacomplexnetworkoflocalandlong-distanceferriescoveringthefulllengthofthe
lakethattakepeopletovillagesandtownsalongbothshoresaswellastotheislandgardensthatadorn
thecentreofthelake.ThemainlinefromMilanfollowsthewesternshorenorth,headingoffinto
NorthernEuropethroughtherenownedSimplonTunnelatDomodossola,fromwherethescenic
CentovalliRailwaytwistsitswaybackdowntothelake.
LakeOrta
LakeOrta’smaintown,OrtaSanGiulio,isclosedtotraffic.CarparksarelocatedalongtheVia
Panoramicaabovethetown.Itispossibletodropoffluggageathotelsbycar,butonlyverysmallcars
willbeabletomaketheirwaythroughthenarrowstreets.Alternatively,thetreninoisaconvenient
touristtrainthatgoesfromtheViaPanoramicaandcarparkstoPiazzaMottaintheheartoftown.
ThejourneybyboatfromOrtaSanGiuliototheIsolaSanGiuliotakesfiveminutes(boatsdepartfrom
9.55am,Oct–Marreducedhours;tel:0345-5170005,www.navigazionelagodorta.it).Therearealsoless
frequentboatservicestoothertownsonthelake.Iftravellingbycar,thebestoptionistoparkinPellaon
thewestbankofthelake,oppositeOrtaSanGiulio,whereyoucanparkclosetotheboatlanding-stage.
A-Z:AHANDYSUMMARYOFPRACTICALINFORMATION
A
Accommodation
Thelakesprovideahugevarietyofplacestostay,from19th-centuryvillasfitforaqueento16th-century
farmhouses,city-centredesignerhotelsandcampsites.TheareaispopularwithHollywoodfilmstars,so
ifyoucanaffordluxuryyouwillnotbedisappointed.Thatsaid,thereareoptionstosuiteverybudget,
andbelowwegivecontactdetailsforthevarioustypesofaccommodation.DuringthepeakseasonofJuly
andAugust,bookingaheadisamust.
Booking
Reservationscanbemadebythetouristoffices,buttheyareoftenverybusy,andyoumaybehandeda
photocopiedlistofroomsintheareaandlefttofendforyourself.Toavoidhassle,bookdirectlybefore
youarrive,andensureyouhavewrittenconfirmationofyourreservation.
Agriturismi
Awayfromthelakes,theoptionofstayinginaconvertedbarnorfarmbuildingisincreasinglycommon
andisanexcellentchoiceforexploringthehinterlandandformoreactiveholidays,suchaswalking,
fishingandcycling.Farmersofferself-containedapartments,butroomswithorwithoutensuitescanbe
found.
Anextensivelistisavailableonwww.agriturist.it,www.agriturismo.it,www.agriturismo.netorfrom
theheadofficesof:
Agriturist,CorsoVittorioEmanuele101,00186Roma,tel:06-6852337,www.byfarmholidays.com.
ViaManin20,58100Grosseto,tel:0564-417418.
Terranostra,ViaXXIVMaggio43,00187Roma,tel:06-48993208;www.terranostra.it.
TurismoVerde,ViaMarioFortuny20,00196Roma,tel:06-3240111.
AlpineHuts
Anexcellentandhighlyeconomicalwayforhikerstoexplorethemountains,thesesheltersarebasicbut
oftenprovidehotmealsandawarmatmosphere.TheClubAlpinoItaliano(ViaPetrella19,20124
Milano)ownsnearly600hutsinthemountaindistricts.InformationanditinerariescanbefoundatThe
TouringClubItaliano(CorsoItalia10,20122Milano,tel:02-8526800).Consultwww.touringclub.itor
www.cai.itforfulldetails.
BedandBreakfasts
StandardsinB&Bsvary(theyareusuallydeemed1-staror2-starhotels),butareneverthelessthebest
waytoexperiencelifeinanItalianfamilyhome.Aswithyouthhostels,thisoptionmaybenomore
economicalthanstayinginabudgethotel,andcashisoftentheonlymethodofpaymentavailable.Consult
www.bbitalia.itorwww.bbitalia.com,whichlistsmorethan13,500B&Bsinallcategories,frombasic
toluxurious.
Camping
Campsitesfillupfast,sobookingwellaheadisadvisable.Thecheaperonesaretuckedawayinpeaceful
spotsawayfromthemaintouristareas,soaccesstoacarisoftenamust.Chaletsandmobilehomesare
offeredonlargercampsitesinadditiontotents;thesitesareusuallywellequippedwithpools,minisupermarketsandgamesareas.Campsitestendtobeclosedinwinter.Alistofcampsiteswithalocation
mapisissuedbyConfedercampeggio,ViaV.Emanuele11,50041Calenzano(Florence),tel:055-882
391,www.federcampeggio.it.Tryalsowww.camping.it,www.campeggi.itandwww.faita.it.Eurocamp
(UKtel:01-606787125,www.eurocamp.co.uk)offersfamilyholidaysinpermanenttentsandselfcateringchaletsinthelakes.
Hotels
Asistobeexpected,theneareryouaretothelakes,thehighertheprices.Primespotsonthelakewillbe
vastlymoreexpensivethanaccommodationwithlessdramaticviews,andespeciallyinmoreruralareas.
Breakfastisusuallyincluded,soifyouprefertoeatmorecheaply,itisworthaskingifyoucanpayforthe
roomonly.Asalways,singletravellersarepenalisedbyoftenhavingtopayaheftysupplementfortheir
singleroom.
Hotelsareclassifiedasfollows:5-stardeluxe,5-star,4-star,3-star,2-starand1-star.Thetermpensione
(orpension),thatdescribesasmall1-or2-starhotel,isnowonlyrarelyusedinItaly.Locande(inns),the
mostbasicaccommodation,arecommonoutsidetouristyareas,butthenamehasnowbeenadoptedby
chicandpriceycity-centrehotelsandisinterchangeablewithalbergoandhotel.
Afurtheroptionismotels,someofwhichcomewithpools,tenniscourtsandevenbeaches.Afulllistis
availablethroughtheItalianTouristBoard(www.enit.it).
PrivateHomeStays
AccommodationinprivatehomesisavailableinmostcitiesandtownsinItalythroughcontactingthe
localtouristofficeandaskingforunelencodiaffittacamere(listofpersonslettingrooms).Astheyare
notofficialestablishments,thetouristofficedoesnotgradethembutwillrecommendthebestones.
VillaandApartmentRentals
Thisisapopular,andoftenmoreeconomicalwayofstayingbyalakeorinacitycentre,andisagood
wayofsamplinglocalproduce–andlife–attheshopsandmarkets.Withrentalsofferedfromafew
nightstoaroundamonth,manyholiday-makerssplittheirtimebetweentwoorthreeareas.Rental
accommodationisincreasinglylistedprivatelyontheinternetandisoftenfarcheaperthisway,buta
largenumberofcompaniesofferextensivechoices,oftenaspartofapackage:
ItalianBreaks
Tel:+44(0)20-86660407www.italianbreaks.com
OwnersDirect
www.ownersdirect.co.uk
HolidayHomesinItaly
Tel:+44(0)845-2297057,www.holidayhomesinitaly.co.uk
SummerinItaly
Tel:USandCanadatollfree:1800-5098194UKtollfree:0800-0470248International:+4191-220
0567www.summerinitaly.com.
YouthHostels
RunbytheAIG(AssociazioneItalianaAlberghiperlaGioventu’),affiliatedtoHostellingInternational
(HI),theseareanexcellentwayofholidayingeconomicallyiftravellingaloneorwithafamily,andare
muchmoresociable.Adormbedcostsaround€18–25,afamilyroom€15–20perperson.
InadditiontotheofficialHIhostels,agrowingnumberofindependenthostelsoffersaccommodationat
similarpricesandoftentheseareinmorecentrallocations;checkwww.hostelworld.com.
Self-cateringkitchensand/orbudgetcafésareprovided,asarediscountedfacilitiessuchasbikeand
canoehire.Likecampsites,theseareoftentuckedawayfromthemaintouristdragandcanthereforealso
meanahopontopublictransporttosightsee.
Strictlyspeaking,youneedtobeamemberofHItousethefacilitiesatHIhostels,butitisnotalways
required.Joinyourhomeorganisationbeforeyouleave,andyoucanthenalsobookaheadthroughits
BookingNetwork.
Australia,tel:02-92611111,www.yha.org.au.
EnglandandWales,tel:0800-0191700,www.yha.org.uk.
Ireland,tel:+3531-8304555,www.anoige.ie.
Italy,tel:06-4871152,www.aighostels.com.
NewZealand,tel:0800-278299,www.yha.co.nz.
Scotland,tel:0345-2937373,www.syha.org.uk.
US,tel:240-6502100,www.hiayh.org.
AdmissionCharges
Forentryintovillasandgardens,expecttopayintheregionof€2–8;formuseumsandartgalleries,€4–
12.
B
BudgetingforYourTrip
ItalyisoneofthepriciestcountriesinEurope,andMilanthedearestcityinItaly,soatripherewillnever
beabargain.However,therearewaysofkeepingcostsdown,suchasshoppingatfactoryoutletsfor
designerclothesandstayinginfamily-runguesthousesratherthangrandhotels.Expecttospend€100–180
onastandarddoubleroomina3-starhotel,althoughpriceswillbehighestonthelakesinJulyand
August;Milan,sohotitsresidentsfleetothelakesatthistime,willbecheaper.
Gettingaroundbypublictransportischeap:aone-daytravelcardinMilan,forexample,willcost€4.50.
Taxisandcarrentalarenotadvisableifyourpocketsarenotdeep:ataxijourneyof7km(4.5miles)costs
around€25,morethantwicethecostofasingletrainticketfromMilantoComo.Aday’scarhirewillset
youbackaround€80,withalitreofpetrolroughly€1.70.
Aneveningmealcancost€25–60(moreifsomewheregrand),whileapizzaandabeercostsaround€15.
Analcoholicdrink(beerorspirits)costsdoublethepriceofasoftdrink,ataround€3–4;localwinenot
muchmore.
C
Children
Italianslovechildren,andyouwillfindthattheyareaccepted–evendotedon–eveninsmart
restaurants.Youcanexpectreducedentryforkidstomuseumsandotherattractions;admissionisoften
freeforunder-6s.Youwillalsopaylessforkids’ticketsontrains,andyouarelikelytobechargeda
smallfee(20–30percentoftheroomprice)foracotorbedforayoungchildinyourroom.
Insummer,bewareofsoaringtemperatures:thesunscreensoldinItalyisoftenalowerfactorthanyou
mightchooseforyourchildren,soit’sbesttocomeprepared.
Climate
DifferencesinaltitudeandmicroclimatesontheItalianLakesmeansyoushouldcomepreparedfor
extremes.Milancanbeswelteringlyhot,especiallyinAugustwhentemperaturesrisewellabove30°C
(90°F)andthehumidityishigh–whichiswhytheonlypeoplearoundaretourists;localshavefledtothe
coolerlakes.
Thelakes’microclimatekeepsthemmildinwinterandpleasantinsummer,butadaytripupintothe
mountainscanseethetemperaturedropsignificantlyeveninJulyandAugust.Itisthereforeadvisableto
packsweatersandjacketsaswellassuncreaminyourday-bagtocopewiththeextremesinaltitude.
Whentovisit
ThebesttimestovisitareinMay,JuneandSeptemberwhenthetemperatureisbalmy,notbaking,andthe
eveningscool.JulyandAugustcangetveryhot,butthingscooldownoff-season(October–Easter)when
rainandheavyfogrollinandicywindssweepdownfromtheAlps.Midwinterisskiseasoninthe
northernareasofTrentinoandit’salsoagoodtimeforabargaincitybreak.
Whattowear
TheItalianLakesandMilanareknownfortheirfashionandglamour,soitisworthpackingsomething
smart/trendyfordiningout(althoughjacketsandtiesarerarelyrequiredformen)andforshopping.Bare
legsarefrowneduponwhenvisitingreligiousbuildings,andallvisitorsshouldhavetheirshoulders
covered.
Thesuncanbedeceptivelystronginhighsummer,sosunhats,longsleevesandhigh-factorsunlotionare
recommended.Rainisafeatureofwinter,butitiswisetopackaraincoatandumbrellawhatevertimeof
yearyougo.
Shoesshouldbesuitableforwalking,especiallyoncobbledstreetsandforclimbingsteps,andhavegood
griptoreducethechanceofslippingonboats.
CrimeandSafety
Italyisasafecountryandviolentcrimeisrare,butpettycrimeisquitecommon,especiallyintourist
hotspots.Asinallbigcitiesaroundtheworld,watchoutforpickpocketingandbag-snatching,anddonot
leavevaluablesinthecar(ifyoureallymust,donotleavethemondisplay).Crowdedstreets,busytourist
areasandtrainandbusstationsarenotorioustargets,soitiswisetotakebasicprecautions:keepafirm
handonyourbagandcameraandleaveyourvaluables(includingcreditcardsandextramoney)inthe
hotelsafe.
Asalways,takeoutadequateinsurancecoveragebeforeleaving.Ifyouarethevictimofacrimeorlose
anythingofvalue,itisessentialtomakeareport(denuncia)atthenearestpolicestation(questura)as
soonaspossibleandgetdocumentationtosupportyourinsurance.Bepreparedtowait.
Forhelpinanemergency,dial113forthelocalpolice,or112fortheCarabinieri,thenationalpolice
force.
CustomsRegulations
Duty-freeandtax-freegoodsarenolongeravailabletoEUresidents,buttherearenolimitsonhowmuch
youcanbuyonjourneyswithintheEU,aslongasyoucanproveitisforpersonaluse.Thereareguidance
levels:
3,200cigarettesor400cigarillosor200cigarsor3kgofsmokingtobacco;
10litresofspirits;20litresoffortifiedwine;90litresofwine;110litresofbeer.
Duty-freeisstillavailabletothosetravellingoutsidetheEU,andallowancesareasfollows:
Australia:A$900worthofgoods(A$450forunder-18sandseacrewmembers)includinggifts;plus
2.25litresofalcohol;and50cigarettes,or50gramsofcigarsortobaccoproductsforeachpassenger
aged18yearsorover.CheckwiththeAustralianCustomsServicebeforeyougo:www.customs.gov.au.
NewZealand:NZ$700worthofgoods(childrenareeligibleforthisallowanceprovidedthegoodsare
theirownpropertyandachildwouldreasonablyexpecttoownandusethem);plus50cigarettes,or50
gramsoftobaccoorcigars,oramixtureofallthreeweighingnotmorethan50grams,4.5litresofwine
or4.5litresofbeerplusthreebottles(orothercontainers)eachcontainingnotmorethan1125mlof
spiritsorliqueurarealsoallowed.CheckwithNewZealandcustomsbeforetravel(
www.customs.govt.nz).
US:EachUStouristisallowedduty-freeUS$800worthofgoodspurchasedabroad.Aflatrateof3
percentisassessedonthenextUS$1,000worthofgoodspurchased.
LuggageandpassportsareexaminedonenteringandleavingItaly.Freeentryisallowedforpersonal
effects.Technically,professionalphotographershavetocarryanATACarnet(issuedintheUKthrough
theLondonChamberofCommerce,33QueenStreet,LondonEC4R1AP,tel:020-72484444)for
temporaryimportationofequipment.
Amaximumoffourlitresofwineoronelitreofspiritsover22percent,200cigarettesandaquantityof
cigarsorpipetobacconotexceeding250gramsperpersonmaybebroughtintothecountryduty-free.If
youarriveinItalyaftervisitingothercountries,youareallowedtocarryupto€500worthofsouvenirs
andonlyaverbaldeclarationisrequired.
D
DisabledTravellers
Italyisnoteasyfordisabledvisitors,butismakingslowprogressinimprovingtransport,accommodation
andbuildings.
Newtrainsandbusesarelow-level,andmoremuseumsnowhavelifts,rampsandadaptedtoilets,and
recentlawsrequirerestaurants,barsandhotelstoprovidespaciousandspeciallyadaptedtoilets.The
newlegislationdoesnot,however,necessarilycoveraccesstothefacilities.
AccessibleItaly,ViaC.Manetti34,47891Dogana,RepubblicadiSanMarino,tel:+39378-941111or
378-0549-941111,www.accessibleitaly.com,anot-for-profitorganisation,offerstourstoforeigners
withdisabilitiesaswellaslistingsofaccessibleweddinglocations.
ForUSvisitors,theSocietyforAccessibleTravelandHospitality(sath),3475thAvenue,NewYork,
NY10016,tel:212-4477284,www.sath.org,providesaccessinformationforalargenumberofairlines.
IntheUK,DisabilityRightsUK,GroundFloor,CANMezzanine,49-51EastRd,London,N16AH,tel:
020-72508181,www.disabilityrightsuk.org,hascomprehensivedisabilityinformation.
AccessatLastisa‘one-stop-shop’foraccessibleaccommodationandserviceswithaworldwide
databaseofplacestostay:www.accessatlast.com
Emergencies
112Police(Carabinieri)
113LocalPolice(PoliziaStatale)
115FireBrigade(VigilidelFuoco)
116Roadsideassistance(SoccorsoStradale)
118Ambulance(Ambulanza)
E
Electricity
Italyuses220vandtwo-pinplugs.AdaptorsforBritishthree-pinappliancescanbepurchasedfrom
airportsordepartmentstoresinthecity.Confusingly,outletscanbeforsmallorclose-setpinsorwide
andlargepins.Someplugpointsmayhaveoverlappingholestoaccepteitherolderornewertypes,butit
maybesensibletohaveanadaptorforbothtypes.Youwillneedatransformertouse100–120v
appliances.
Embassies&Consulates
EmbassiesandconsulatesinItaly
Australia:Embassy,ViaAntonioBosio5,00161Rome,tel:06-852721.
ConsulateGeneral,ViaBorgogna2,20122Milan,tel:02-776741;www.italy.embassy.gov.au.
Canada:Embassy,ViaZara30,00198Rome,tel:06-854441.
ConsulateGeneral,PiazzaCavour3,20121Milan,tel:02-62694238;www.canadainternational.gc.ca.
Ireland:Embassy,VillaSpada,ViaGiacomoMedici1,00153Rome,tel:06-5852381.Consulate
General,PiazzaSanPietroinGessate2,20122Milan,tel:02-55187569;www.dfa.ie/irishembassy/italy.
UK:Embassy,ViaXXSettembre80a,00187Rome,tel:06-42200001.
ConsulateGeneral,ViaS.Paolo7,20121Milan,tel:02-723001;www.gov.uk/government/world/italy.
US:Embassy,ViaVittorioVeneto121,00187Rome,tel:06-46741.
ConsulateGeneral:ViaPrincipeAmedeo2,20121Milan,tel:02-290351;http://italy.usembassy.gov.
Italianembassiesabroad
Australia:Embassy,12GreySt,Deakin,Canberra,act2600,tel:02-62733333,
www.ambcanberra.esteri.it.
Consulates:Melbourne,tel:03-98675744andSydney,tel:02-93927900.
Canada:Embassy,275SlaterSt,Ottawa,ONK1P5H9,tel:1613-2342401,www.ambottawa.esteri.it.
Consulates:Montreal,tel:514-8498351andToronto,tel:416-9771566.
Ireland:Embassy,63–65NorthumberlandRd,Dublin4,tel:31-6601744,www.ambdublino.esteri.it.
NewZealand:Embassy,34–38GrantRd,POBox463,Thorndon,Wellington,tel:04-4735399,
www.ambwellington.esteri.it.
UK:Embassy,14ThreeKing’sYard,LondonW1K4EH,tel:020-73122200,www.amblondra.esteri.it.
Consulates:London,tel:020-72359371,Edinburgh,tel:0131-2203695,andManchester,tel:0161-236
9024.
US:Embassy,3000WhitehavenStNW,WashingtonDC20008,tel:202-6124400,
www.ambwashingtondc.esteri.it.
Consulates:Chicago,tel:312-4671550,NewYork,tel:212-7379100,SanFrancisco,tel:415-292
9210.
F
FestivalsandEvents
January
Milan–Epiphany:CostumedparadeoftheThreeWiseMen,fromtheDuomotoSant’Eustorgio.
Bresciaprovince–MusichedalMondo:Majorseriesofclassicalconcertsandrecitalsrunningfrom
DecembertoMarch(www.bresciatourism.it).
Salò,Garda:Classicalmusicalperformances(everySundayafternoonintheresort).
Ascona,LakeMaggiore(1Jan):Fireworkdisplay.
February/March
AllItaly–Carnival(datesvary):celebratedinFebruaryorMarch.VeronaBacanaldelGnoco.
FranciacortaCarnival,Erbusco–Allegoricalfloatsparadeintheheartofsparklingwinecountry;
similaronestakeplaceinBergamo,Varese,Bormio,Schignano,Arco,aswellasinPisogneandClusane
onLakeIseo.
Milan–CarnevaleAmbrosiano:Celebrationofthecity’spatronsaint,withchildren’scostumedparades
andchiacchiere,specialbiscuits.
Milan–Fashioncollections:invitation-onlyshowsheldduringFashionWeekatendFeb/earlyMar.
Mid-March:CantineAperte,“OpenWineEstates”.AchancetovisitmanyestatesinLombardyandother
regionsfortastings(www.bresciatourism.it).
April/May
Easteriscelebratedthroughouttheregionwithparades,marketsandfairs.
Trento–15April:MotorbikeBlessing–Trento’sarchbishopblessesaround1,000motorbikesinthe
PiazzaDuomo.
Mid–endMay:Openpalazzi,withguidedtoursinTrentoanditssuburbs(www.cultura.trentino.it).
EndApr–beginningMay:TrentoFilmFestival(www.trentofestival.it).
OrtaSanGuilio–1–31:“Ortafiori”FlowerFestival.Camelliaflowershow.
Omegna–31May:MadonnadelLagoprocessionat8.30pm,Bagnella.
May
Brescia–mid-May:MilleMiglia,thecountry’sbest-knownvintagecarrally,fromBresciatoRomeand
back,withconcertsandeventsstagedenroute(www.1000miglia.eu).
Stresa–MayandJune:InternationalOrganFestival.
LakeMaggiore–17:Locarno–StrawberryFestival.
25–8:Ascona–InternationalStreetArtistsFestival.
27:Brissago–FishFestival.
June
Erbusco,Franciacorta–Festivald’estateFranciacorta:wineandfoodfestival(
www.franciacorta.net/en/festival/).
Brescia–BresciaconGusto:Three-dayfoodfairaroundBrescia’scourtyardsandcitysquares,with
tastingsofoil,cheeses,sardinesandlakefish.
Como–UntilAug:LarioJazzandRhythm’n’Bluesfestival;famousartistsperformingindifferent
villagesaroundthelake(www.provincia.como.it).
StJohn’sDay/SagradiSanGiovanni:TheIsoladiComacinacommemoratesthedestructionofits12thcenturycitywithahugefireworkdisplay.
LakeLugano–EstivalJazzLugano–endJune–earlyJuly:freeconcertsinMendrisioandLugano.
LakeOrta–Mid-June:Week-longFestivalCusianodiMusicaAntica.
FestivalofAncientMusicinOrtaSanGiulio.
AmenobluesFestival,Ameno–JuneandJuly:Ahighlightinthebluesjazzcalendar(
www.amenoblues.it).
Trento–mid-endJune,FestivalofSanVigilio:Thetowncelebratesitspatronsaintthroughhistoricalreenactments(www.festevigiliane.it).
Verona–Operaseasonbeginsinthefamousopen-airRomanAmphitheatre.UntilSept(www.arena.it).
June–SeptProvinciainFestival:Music,theatre,danceandcinema(www.provinciainfestival.it).
June–Aug:livemusicinPiazzaGrandeinLocarno.
July
Fireworkdisplays:atLimone,Salò,Sirmione,RivaandinOmegna(LakeOrta)inAugust;Locarnoand
MuraltoinLakeMaggiore,andalsoLakeComo(FestivaldeiFuochi)inlateJuneandespeciallyin
Gravedona(midsummerfeast,14Aug).
Trentino–TheSoundsoftheDolomites:“MusicintheMountains”,freeopen-airfestival(
www.visittrentino.it;www.fassa.com).
GardoneRiviera–StagionealVittoriale.SummerseasonattheTeatrodelVittoriale,intheamphitheatre
oftheVittoriale,D’Annunzio’shome:music,dance,theatreandrecitals(www.anfiteatrodelvittoriale.it).
BogliacodiGargnano–CentoGames:SailingregattawithsomeoftheboatsfromtheCentomigliadel
Garda(www.centomiglia.it).
LakeGarda–PaliodelleBisse:Nightregattawithafolkloricgondolier-stylerowingcompetitionin
memoryofVenetianrule.
LakeLedro–MatchRaceIsaf:America’sCupinminiature,butfemale.(LakeRegattasareheld
throughoutthesummeronLakeGarda;seewww.fragliavelariva.comfordetails).
Desenzano–Fishfestival,withfreewinetastings.SettimanadellaTinca,Clusane–aweekoffeasting
onthelocallakefish,organisedbyOperatoriTuristiciClusane.
Salò–ClassicaloutdoorconcertsstagedinPiazzaDuomoinJulyandAugust;alsoheldinLakeComo
Aug–Sept.
Como–StagioneConcertisticainVillaCarlotta:classicalmusicconcertsinastunningsetting.
LakeOrta–mid-July:SagradelPescediCamogli,Omegna–two-dayseaandlakefishfestival.
August
Como–16:PognanaLario,SagradegliGnocchi–Foodfestivalcelebratinggnocchi,preparedbyallthe
womenofthevillage.
CentroLago–RegattaoftheLucie,theComostandingrowingboats.
LakeOrta–Firstweek:MiasinoClassicJazzFestival(www.prolocomiasino.it).
Lasttwoweeks:WorldFireworksChampionship.
LakeMaggiore–10daysinearlyAugust:LocarnoInternationalFilmFestival(www.pardolive.ch).
September
Ascona–SeptandOct:SettimaneMusicaliconcertsheldbyinternationalensemblesintownandaround
thelake(www.settimane-musicali.ch).
Weeklyfreeclassicalmusicconcertsarealsoheldthroughouttheyear.
LakeGarda–CentomigliaRegatta:Europe’smostimportantsailingeventstartsinBogliacobutracesto
Riva,Sirmione,DesenzanoandSalo(www.centomiglia.it).
Arco–AugandSept:Rockmaster,free-climbingworldchampionshipsstagedonEurope’slargestopenairwall:18metres(59ft)inheight,650sqmetres(7,000sqft)tobeclimbedand2,000mobilegrips(
www.rockmaster.com).
Iseo–FieradeiVini:winefairinRovato,nearIseo,heldfirstweekendofSept.
Pisogne–Festadelfungoedellacastagna:AutumnfestivalonLakeGardadevotedtomushroomsand
chestnuts,withstandssellinglocalproduceofeverydescription(www.bresciaatavola.it).
Trentino–Traubenkur–bizarregrapejuicecure.
Milan–Springfashioncollections:invitation-onlyshowsheldinOctoberFashionWeek.
MVMMilanFashionFair(milan-ovendemoda)endofSeptember,basedonwomen’sready-to-wear,
FieraMilanoCity(www.fieramilano.it).
ValdiFiemmeandValdiFassa–MarcialongaRunningCoop:Septemberversionofthemostfamous
ItalianNordicskiingrace,whichsharesthesamestartingandfinishinglines:MoenaandCavalese(
www.marcialonga.it).
Comoandarea–EndAug–mid-Sept:PaliodelBaradello,Historicalre-enactmentofBarbarossa’s
entrancetoComointhe12thcentury(www.paliodelbaradello.it).
Sept/Oct:Miniartextil–Internationalreviewofcontemporarytextileart(www.miniartextil.it).
LakeMaggiore–Firstweekend:LocarnoTriathlon–theonlymedium-distancetriathloninSwitzerland(
www.3locarno.ch).
Mid-Sept:Locarno-MontiWineFestival.
October/November/December
October:LakeGardaMarathon:BeginsinLimoneonthewesternshoreandfinishesinMalcesineonthe
oppositeside,viathenorthernshoreofRivadelGarda,ArcoandTorbole(
www.lakegardamarathon.com).
LakeGarda–Desenzano:OctoberWineandChestnutFestivaltocelebratethegrapeharvest,onLake
Garda.
PuciaeSchisa:OctoberbarrelraceinErbusco,Franciacorta,plusfoodandwinefair.
Clusane,LakeIseo–VinoNovellocelebrateslocalwineandfishdishes.
Milan–“OhbejOhbej”:Alocalholidayinhonourofthecity’spatronsaint;hugeChristmasmarket.
7Dec:LaScalaofficialopening,withtheoperaseasonrunninguntilJuly(www.teatroallascala.org).
ChristmasCribs(Presepi):processionsandChristmascribsondisplayinchurchesalloverthelakes,
withafabulousonesetoverthewaterinDesenzano,bythePortoVecchio.
Como–CittàdeBalocchicelebratesChristmaswithaseriesofchildren’seventsandfireworksonNew
Year’sEveinthemainsquare(www.cittadeibalocchi.it).
LakeMaggiore–26Nov–6Jan:LocarnoonIce(www.locarnoonice.ch).
LakeMaggiore–Dec:MercatinidiNataleChristmasmarkets.
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Gay&LesbianTravellers
Inlargetowns,andespeciallyinItaly’sgaycapitalofMilan,homosexualityisaccepted,andthegrowing
gayscenereflectsthis(seewww.arcigaymilano.organdwww.listalesbica.it).However,thisisa
Catholiccountry,andattitudesbecomeconservativeandevenhomophobicoutsidetouristareas,where
evenheavypettinginpublicisviewedharshly.TheageofconsentinItalyis14.Thewebsite
www.gayfriendlyitaly.comisaguidetothegaysceneacrossthecountry.
H
Health&MedicalCare
ThepublichealthsysteminItalyisgenerallyexcellentandismanagedprovinciallybyasl(Azienda
SanitariaLocale),whichcanprovideinformationonhowtofindthenearesthospital,clinicoranyother
medicalserviceyoumayneed.PrivatehospitalsandclinicsinItalyareverygood,butareexpensiveif
arenotcoveredbymedicalinsurance.
FirstAidService(ProntoSoccorso)withadoctoronhandisfoundatairports,ports,railwaystations
andhospitals.Ifyouneedanambulance,youcancall118fromanywhereinItaly.Aswithanyemergency
abroad,callyourlocalconsulorembassy.
EuropeancitizensmusthaveanEHIC(EuropeanHealthInsuranceCard)tobeentitledtoemergency
medicaltreatmentinItaly.TheycanbeappliedforintheUKonline(www.ehic.org.uk),atthepost
office(www.postoffice.co.uk)orbyphoning0845-6062030.Therearesimilararrangementsfor
citizensofotherEuropeanUnioncountries,andAustraliansareentitledtothesamereciprocal
arrangementviatheMedicaresystem.VisitorsfromoutsidetheEUarestronglyadvisedtotakeout
adequateholidayandmedicalinsurancetoprovidefullcoverduringtheirstayabroad.
NovaccinationsareneededtotraveltoorfromItaly,andtapwaterisdrinkable.Itisagoodideatopack
high-factorsunscreen(againstthesuninsummerandtoprotectfromsnowburnwhenskiing)alongwith
mosquitorepellent.Itisalsoadvisabletocoverupasmuchaspossible–thecoolingbreezesonthelakes
maskthesun’sintensity.
Medicalservices
Pharmacies
Thestaffinchemists’shops(farmacie)areextremelyknowledgeableaboutcommonillnessesandcan
dispensemanymoremedicineswithoutprescriptionthaninothercountries.Pharmaciesareidentifiedby
across,oftenredorgreenandusuallyinneon.NormalpharmacyopeninghoursareMon–Fri9am–1pm
and4–7pm.Everyfarmaciapostsalistofthelocalchemistswhoareonemergencydutyonthedooror
listedinthelocalpaper.
Hospitals
Milan–OspedaleMaggiorePoliclinicio,ViaFrancescoSforza35,tel:02-55031.
LakeMaggiore–ItalianRedCross(ambulance):Varese,tel:0332-813163;Angera,tel:0331-930332;
Luino,tel:0332-510444;Stresa,tel:0323-33360;Verbania,tel:0323-405000.
Thereareaccidentandemergencydepartmentsatthefollowinghospitals:
Bergamo–OspedaliRiunitidiBergamo,ViaTitoLivio2,Bergamo,tel:035-267611.
LakeComo–OspedaleSant’Anna,SanFermodellaBattaglia,tel:031-5851.
LakeLugano–OspedaleCivico,ViaTesserete46,tel:091-8116111.
LakeMaggiore–Arona,OspedaleSSTrinita’,ViaS.Carlo11,tel:0322-5161.Cittiglio(nearLaveno
Mombello),OspedalediCircolo,ViaGuglielmoMarconi40,tel:0332-603000.Luino,Ospedaledi
Circolo,ViaForlanini6,tel:0332-539111.
Trento–S.ChiaraHospitalL.goMedaglieD’Oro9,38100Trento,tel:0461-903111.
Varese–OspedalediCircolo,FondazioneMacchi,VialeBorri57,tel:0332-278111.
Verona–OspedalePoliclinicodiBorgoRoma,ViadelleMenegone10,Verona,tel:045-8124848.
L
LeftLuggage
Thereareleft-luggagefacilitiesatallairportsandmajorrailwaystationswithfullsecuritymeasures,but
itisn’tacheapoption.Mosthotelsarehappytostoreyourluggageforyouifyouarriveearlyorhavea
lateflight.Makesureyourbagsareproperlysecured.
LostProperty
Milan–CouncilOffice:ViaFriuli,30,tel:02-88453900.Opendaily8.30am–4pm.
Train:StazioneCentrale,tel:02-88453900.OpenMon–Fri8.30am–4pm.
M
Maps
Mapsarefoundinstationeryshops,largenews-standsandpetrolstations.Touristofficesusuallyprovide
freecitymaps.StockistsinLondoninclude:Stanfords,12–14LongAcre,LondonWC2E9LP,tel:02078361321,www.stanfords.co.uk.
InsightFleximapLakeGarda&Veronaisauseful,waterproofmapwithallthedetailedareaandtown
plansyouwillneedforyourtrip,aswellasthelowdownonalltopattractionsandpracticalinformation.
Media
Italiannewspapersareregionallybased,witheachlargeItaliantownproducingitsownnewspaper.A
fewnewspapers,LaStampa,IlCorrieredellaSeraandLaRepubblica,haveanationalfollowing.
English-languagenewspaperscanbebought(atgreatexpense)inmajortownsandtourismresorts.
TelevisionisderegulatedinItaly,soaswellasthethreenationalchannels,RAI1,2and3,therearea
hugenumberofotherchannelsofferinganarrayofchat,quizandmusicshows.ThemainonesareCanale
5,Rete4,Italia1,La7andMTV.
PublicHolidays
Banksandmostshopsareclosedonthefollowingholidays,andbanksmaycloseearlyonthe
precedingday.
1January(Capodanno)NewYear’sDay
6January(Befana)Epiphany
March/April(Pasqua)EasterSunday
March/April(Pasquetta)EasterMonday
25April(GiornodellaLiberazione)LiberationDay
1May(FestadeiLavoratori)LabourDay
2June(FestadellaRepubblica)RepublicDay
15August(Ferragosto)AssumptionoftheBlessed
VirginMary
1November(Ognissanti)AllSaints’Day
8December(ImmacolataConcezione)ImmaculateConceptionoftheBlessedVirginMary
25December(Natale)Christmas
26December(SantoStefano)StStephen’sDay
OfficesandshopsarealsoclosedinMilanon7December,thefeastdayhonouringSt
Ambrose,thecity’spatronsaint.
Money
Currency
Italy’scurrencyistheeuro(€),whichisdividedinto100cents.Thecurrencyisavailablein500-,200-,
100-,50-,20-,10-and5-euronotes,and2-euro,1-euro,50-cent,20-cent,10-cent,5-cent,2-centand1centcoins.
SwitzerlandisoutsidetheEUandusestheSwissfranc,dividedinto100cents.Inpractice,mostpeople
willaccepteuros.
BanksandATMs
ATMs(bancomat),arewidelyavailableandcommonlyused.Thereisusuallyasmalltransactioncharge.
Beawarethatthereisalimittotheamountyoucanwithdraweachday(usuallyaround€250).UKdebit
cardscanalsobeusedtobuygoodsinshops,withverificationbypinatthecheckout.
Itisalwayswisetocarrycreditcardswithyouasaback-up,andwhilesomeplacesstillinsistoncash,
thisisslowlychanging.Atrestaurants,petrolstationsandbudgethotelsoutsidetouristareas,check
beforehandifthereisanydoubt.Withheightenedfraudsecurity,it’sworthtellingyourcreditcard
companywhenyouaretravellingandtakingacontactnumber,ortheymayrefusepaymentsfroman
unexpectedplace.Traveller’schequesarenolongerwidelyaccepted,asatmsandcreditcardshave
becomethenorm.
Banksofferthebestratesofexchange,asmanysmallexchangebooths(cambio)chargeupto3percent
commission.
O
OpeningHours
Shopsandbusinessesusuallyopenfromaround8.30am–1pmand3.30pm/4pm–7.30pm/8pm,althoughin
themaincitiesandtouristareassomestayopenthroughoutthedayand,increasingly,Sundaystoo.In
smallertowns,itisnotuncommonforshopstocloseonSaturdayafternoonsandMondaymornings,while
Sundayisstilladayofrestforallbutbarsandrestaurants.
Churchesaregenerallyopenfrom8.30am–noonandfrom4–6pm;majorCatholicchurches(suchasthe
DuomoinMilan)donotcloseintheafternoon.
MuseumsrunbythegovernmentaresupposedlyopenfromTue–Sat9am–7pm(Sun9am–1pm).Othersare
likelytocloseoverlunchandwillhavereducedhoursinwinter.
Mostthingsdownonnationalholidays.
P
PostalServices
Mainpostofficesinmajortownsareopenallday;otherwisethehoursareusually8am–1.30/2pmMon–
Fri(11.45pmSat).Notethatsomecountershavedifferenthours(egregisteredmail,etc).
Stamps(francobolli)aresoldatpostofficesandtobacconists’shops(tabacchi),aswellasinsomegift
shopsintouristareas.
Thereisalsoacourierserviceavailableatmajorpostofficesforsendingimportantdocuments
worldwideguaranteedtoarrivewithin24/48hours.
Courierservices
Thepostofficegrouprunsitsowncourierservice,SDA(www.sda.it),butAmericancompaniesFedEx
(tel:800-123800,www.fedex.com/it_english)andDHL(www.dhl.it)alsooperatehere.
R
ReligiousServices
ItalyisaCatholiccountry,with88percentofthepopulationdescribingthemselvesasCatholic.In
general,theItaliansareverytolerantofotherfaiths,andacceptingofthetouriststhatvisittheirchurches.
However,behavingappropriatelywhenvisitingchurchesisimportant:wearrespectfulattire(your
shouldersandkneesshouldbecovered),switchoffmobilephonesandkeepnoiselevelsdown,
especiallyduringservices.
T
Telephones
Mobilephones
EuropeanstandardGSMmobile/cellphonesarewidelyused.Americanswillneedatri-bandphone.It
maybeworthbuyinganItalianSIMcardifyouintendtostayformorethanafewweeks;buya“payas
yougo”card,normallycalledschedaprepagatainanymobile-phoneshop.Itcosts€25,€50,€80,€100
or€150.ThemajornetworksavailableareofferedbyTelecomItalia(TIM),VodafoneandWind.
GlobalroamingSIMcardsfromoperatorssuchasGo-Sim(www.gosim.com)allowyoutoreceivecalls
forfreeinmostcountriesandmakethemforconsiderablylessthanusual.
Publictelephones
Coin-operatedpublictelephonesarebecomingincreasinglyhardtofindintheageofmobilephones,so
youwillneedaphonecard(cartatelefonica),whichisavailablefromtobacconists,newsstandsorpost
officesinvariousdenominations.Youcanalsomakecallsfromsomebarsandfrompostofficesby
callingscatti(ringfirst,paylateraccordingtothenumberofunitsorscattiused)orusingacreditcard.
Forinternationalcalls,thecheapesttimetotelephoneisbetween10pmand8amMondaytoSaturday,and
alldaySunday,althoughbuyinganinternationalphonecardcanmakecallingabroadremarkablycheapin
acountryknownforitsextremelyhightariffs.
Websites
www.autostrade.it,www.rac.co.uk,www.theaa.comDrivinginItalyandplanningyour
journeyfromAtoB.
www.hellomilano.itGoodgeneralsitewithlistingsinformation,adviceandmaps.
www.italia.itItaliantourismofficialwebsite.
www.italianlakes.comAdedicatedandinformativesitefromanexpatAmericancouple,fullof
tips,adviceanditineraries.
www.italia-magazine.co.ukAimedattravellersandexpats,withfeaturesonlivingladolce
vitaplusgoodlinks.
www.mediasoft.it/piazzeVirtuallytourthesquaresofItaly.
www.museionline.infoExcellentdatabaseonItalianmuseums
www.parks.itUsefulportalaboutnationalandregionalparks,pluseventlistingsanditineraries.
Usefulnumbers
Directoryenquiries:12
Internationalenquiries:176
Internationalreversecharges(collect):170
WhendiallingItalyfromabroad,dialthecountrycode(0039)andthentheareacodeincludingtheinitial
zero.
InItaly,whencallingnumberseitherinsideoroutsideyourarea,diallingmustalwaysbeprecededbythe
areacodeincludingthezero.
AreaCode(PrefissoTelefonico)
AreacodesforsomeoftheprincipalcitiesofItalyandinthelakesregion:
Bergamo035
Brescia030
Como031
Florence055
LakeGarda0365
LakeMaggiore0323
Milan02
Rome06
Trento0461
Venice041
Verona045
TimeZone
ItalyisonehouraheadofLondonandDublin,eighthoursbehindSydney,10hoursbehindAucklandand
sixhoursaheadofNewYorkandToronto.
Tipping
MostItalianrestaurantsimposeacovercharge(coperto)forlinen,breadandservice,butatipofaround
10percentisappropriateforgoodservice.Thereisnoneedtotipanyoneelse(drivers,concierges,
maids)unlesstheyhavebeenespeciallyhelpfulorif,inahotel,yourstayhasbeenalongone.After
dining,itisworthkeepingthebillwithyouuntilyouareatleast100metres(300ft)away,tocomplywith
Italianlaw–therestaurantowner(andpossiblyyou)couldotherwisefaceaheavyfinefromtheGuardia
diFinanzia,thetaxpolice.
TouristInformation
Touristofficesabroad
TheItalianStateTouristBoard,enit(EnteNazionaleperilTurismo,ViaMarghera2/6,Rome,tel:0649711,www.enit.it),providestouristinformationforthewholecountry.
UK1PrincesStreet,LondonW1R2AY,tel:020-74081254.
USSuite1565,630FifthAvenue,NewYork,NY10111,tel:212-2454822.Therearealsoofficesin
Chicago,LosAngelesandCanada.
TouristofficesinItaly
TouristinformationisavailableattheAziendadiPromozioneTuristica(APT),themaintouristofficein
eachprovincialcapital,andtherearebranchesatmajorairportsandstations.Mosttownsalsohavea
touristoffice(ufficioditurismo),whileinsmallervillages,thecomuneholdstouristinformationand
somecommercialbanksandtravelagenciespublishtouristguides.Officehoursforlargertownsare
usuallyMon–Sat9am–1pmand4–7pm(sometimesSunmornings).Smallerofficescanbeerratic,andin
wintermayevenclose.
TheTouringClubItaliano(TCI),withofficesinalmosteverymajortown,providesfreeinformation
abouttheareaandalsoproducesexcellentroadandhikingmaps.Seewww.touringclub.it.
Bergamo
ViaGombito13,CittàAlta,tel:035-242226.
UrbanCenter,VialePapaGiovanniXXIII57,CittàBassa,tel:035-210204.
Airport,arrivalsterminal,tel:035-320402.
www.visitbergamo.net
Brescia
ViaTrieste1,Brescia,tel:030-2400357(City).PiazzaleStazione;tel:030-8378559.
www.bresciatourism.it
Como
PiazzaCavour17,Como,tel:031-269712.
www.lakecomo.it
LakeGarda
PiazzaBoldini2,Gargnano,tel:0365-791243.
www.visitgarda.com
CorsoRepubblica,GardoneRiviera,tel:0365-20347.
www.visitgarda.com
VialeMarconi2,Sirmione,tel:030-916114.
www.visitgarda.com
LargoMedaglied’Oro,RivadelGarda,tel:0464-554444,www.gardatrentino.it
ViaCapitanato6/8,Malcesine,tel:045-7400044.
www.tourism.verona.it
PiazzaleAldoMoro,Bardolino,tel:045-7210078.
www.tourism.verona.it
LakeIseoandFranciacorta
LungolagoMarconi2/C,Iseo,tel:030-3748733.www.iseolake.infoandwww.bresciatourism.it
LakeLugano
FFS,Lugano,tel:091-9235120.PiazzaRiforma,PalazzoCivico,Lugano,Switzerland,tel:+4158-866
6600.
www.luganoturismo.ch
LakeMaggiore
PiazzaMarconi16,Stresa,tel:0323-31308.
www.illagomaggiore.com
PiazzaStazione,SBBRailwayStation,Locarno,Switzerland,tel:+41848-091091.
www.ascona-locarno.com
Milan
GalleriaVittorioEmanueleII(cornerPiazzadellaScala),tel:02-88455555.www.turismo.milano.it
Trento
ViaManci2,Trento;tel:0461-216000.
www.visittrentino.it
Varese
ViaRomagnosi9;tel:033-2281913.
www.vareselandoftourism.itandwww.comune.varese.it
Verona
ViaDegliAlpini9,PiazzaBrà,tel:045-8068680.
www.tourism.verona.it
ForacompletelistoftouristofficesthroughoutItaly,visitwww.enit.it.
V
VisasandPassports
EUcitizensneedonlyavalidphotoID(passport,nationalIDcardordrivinglicence)toenterItaly;no
visaisrequired.Allothernationalitiesneedavalidpassportunlessyouintendtostayformorethan90
days.Youmustthenapplyatanypolicestation(questura)foranextensionofanadditional90dayswith
evidencetoproveyouhaveadequatemeansofsupport.Asarule,permissionisgrantedimmediately.
Othernationalsshouldconsulttheirembassyaboutvisarequirementsbeforeentry.
Don’tforgetthatpartsofthelakesareinSwitzerland,soit’sbesttocarryyourpassportwithyouasyou
travelaround.
Policeregistration
YoumustregisterwiththepolicewithinthreedaysofenteringItaly,althoughthisisautomaticallydone
foryouifstayingatahotel.Theformalityisrarelyobserved,butifyouintendtostayforalongerperiod
itisadvisabletocomplywithregulations.Youarelegallyrequiredtocarryaformofidentification
(drivinglicence,passport,etc)onyouatalltimes.
W
WeightsandMeasures
ThemetricsystemisusedforallweightsandmeasuresinItaly.
UNDERSTANDINGTHELANGUAGE
BasicRules
Hereareafewbasicrulesofgrammarandpronunciation:cbeforeeoriispronounced“ch”,asinciao.
Chbeforeioreispronouncedas“k”,eglachiesa.Likewise,sciorscearepronouncedasin“sheep”or
“shed”respectively.GninItalianisratherlikethesoundin“onion”,whileglissoftenedtoresemblethe
soundin“bullion”.
Nounsareeithermasculine(il,plurali)orfeminine(la,pluralle).Pluralsofnounsaremostoften
formedbychanginganotoaniandanatoane,e.g.ilpanino,ipanini;lachiesa,lechiese.
Wordsarestressedonthepenultimatesyllableunlessanaccentindicatesotherwise.
Italianhasformalandinformalwordsfor“you”.Inthesingular,tuisinformalwhileleiismorepolite.It
isbesttousetheformalformunlessinvitedtodootherwise.
BasicPhrasesandWords
YesSi
NoNo
ThankyouGrazie
ManythanksMillegrazie/tantegrazie/moltegrazie
You’rewelcomePrego
Allright/That’sfineVabene
PleasePerfavore/percortesia
Excuseme(togetattention)Scusi(singular),Scusate(plural);(toattractattentionfromawaiter)
Senta!(inacrowd)Permesso;(sorry)Miscusi
CanIhelpyou?(formal)Possoaiutarla?
Canyouhelpme?(informal)Puòaiutarmi,percortesia?
CertainlyMa,certo
Ineed…Hobisognodi…
I’dlike…Vorrei…
Whereis/are…?Dov’è/Dovesono…?
I’mlostMisonoperso/a
right/leftadestra/asinistra
GostraightonVasemprediritto
CanyoushowmewhereIamonthemap?Puòindicarmisullacartinadovemitrovo?
Canyouhelpmeplease?Mipuòaiutare,perfavore?
I’msorryMidispiace
Idon’tknowNonloso
Idon’tunderstandNoncapisco
DoyouspeakEnglish/French?Parlainglese/francese?
Couldyouspeakmoreslowly?Puòparlarepiùlentamente?
Couldyourepeatthatplease?Puòripetere,perpiacere?
PleasewriteitdownformeMeloscriva,perfavore
here/therequi/là
yesterday/today/tomorrowieri/oggi/domani
now/early/lateadesso/presto/tardi
What?Come...?
When/Why/Where?Quando/Perché/Dove?
Whereisthelavatory?Dov’èilbagno?
WCilgabinetto
Pull/Push(signondoors)Tirare/Spingere
Entrance/ExitEntrata/Uscita
Greetings
Hello(goodday)Buongiorno
GoodbyeArrivederci
Goodafternoon/eveningBuonasera
GoodnightBuonanotte
Hello/Hi/Goodbye(familiar)Ciao
Mr/Mrs/MissSignor/Signora/Signorina
Pleasedtomeetyou(formal)Piacerediconoscerla
IamEnglish/American/Irish/Scottish/Canadian/AustralianSono
inglese/americano(a)/irlandese/scozzese/canadese/australiano(a)
I’mhereonholidaySonoquiinvacanza
Howareyou(formal/informal)?Comesta(comestai)?
Fine,thanksBene,grazie
SeeyoulaterApiùtardi
SeeyousoonApresto
Takecare(formal/informal)Stiabene/Stabene
DoyoulikeItaly/Milan/Verona/Como?Lepiacel’Italia/Milano/Verona/Como?
IlikeitalotMipiacemoltissimo
Telephonecalls
I’dliketomakeareverse-charge(collect)callVorreifareunatelefonataacaricodeldestinatario
Hello(onthetelephone)Pronto
Myname’sMichiamo/Sono
CouldIspeakto…?Possoparlarecon…?
Sorry,he/sheisn’tinMidispiace,èfuori
I’lltrylaterRiproveròpiùtardi
CanIleaveamessage?Possolasciareunmessagio?
PleasetellhimIcalledGlidica,perfavore,chehotelefonato
HoldonUnattimo,perfavore
IntheHotel
Doyouhaveanyvacantrooms?Avetedellecamerelibere?
IhaveareservationHofattounaprenotazione
asingle/doubleroomunacamerasingola/doppia
aroomwithtwinbedsunacameraadueletti
aroomwithabath/showerunacameraconbagno/doccia
foronenightperunanotte
Howmuchisit?Quantocosta?
OnthefirstfloorAlprimopiano
Isbreakfastincluded?Ecompresalaprimacolazione?
Iseverythingincluded?Etuttocompreso?
half/fullboardmezzapensione/pensionecompleta
It’sexpensiveEcaro
Doyouhavearoomwithabalcony/viewofthesea?C’èunacameraconbalcone/conunavistadel
mare?
aroomoverlookingthepark/thestreet/thebackunacameraconvistasulparco/chedasulla
strada/sulretro
Theroomistoohot/cold/noisy/smallLacameraètroppocalda/fredda/rumorosa/piccola
Adoublebedunadoppia/matrimoniale
CanIseetheroom?Possovederelacamera?
big/smallgrande/piccola
Whattimeisbreakfast?Acheoraèlaprimacolazione?
Comein!Avanti!
CanIhavethebill,please?Possoavereilconto,perfavore?
Canyoucallmeataxi,please?Puòchiamarmiuntaxi,perfavore?
diningroomlasaladapranzo
keylachiave
liftl’ascensore
towelunasciugamano
toiletpaperlacartaigienica
AtaBar
coffee(small,strongandblack)uncaffèespresso;(withhot,frothymilk)uncappuccino;(weak,
servedintallglass)uncaffèlungo;(withalcohol,probablybrandy)uncaffècorretto
teauntè
herbalteaunatisana
hotchocolateunacioccolatacalda
(bottled)orange/lemonjuiceunsuccod’arancia/dilimone
orangesquasharanciata
freshlysqueezedorange/lemonjuiceunaspremutad’arancia/dilimone
mineralwater(fizzy/still)acquamineralegassata/naturale
with/withouticecon/senzaghiaccio
red/whitewinevinorosso/bianco
(draught)beerunabirra(allaspina)
abitter(Vermouth,etc)unamaro
milklatte
(half)alitreun(mezzo)litro
bottleunabottiglia
sandwichuntramezzino
rollunpanino
CheersSalute
InaRestaurant
I’dliketobookatableVorreiprenotareunatavola
lunch/supperpranzo/cena
WedonotwantafullmealNondesideriamounpasto-completo
I’mavegetarianSonovegetariano/a
Isthereavegetariandish?C’èunpiattovegetariano?
Maywehavethemenu?Cidialacarta?
winelistlalistadeivini
Whatwouldyourecommend?Checosaciconsiglia?
Whatwouldyouliketodrink?Checosadesideradabere?
acarafeofred/whitewineunacaraffadivinorosso/bianco
fixed-pricemenuilmenùaprezzofisso
dishofthedayilpiattodelgiorno
home-madefattoincasa
vat(salestax)iva
coverchargeilcoperto/paneecoperto
thebill,pleaseilconto,perfavore
Isserviceincluded?Ilservizioèincluso?
Whereisthelavatory?Dov’èilbagno?
MenuDecoder
Antipasti–starters
antipastomistomixedhorsd’oeuvres:coldcuts,cheeses,roastvegetables
buffetfreddocoldbuffet
caponataaubergine,olives,tomatoes
insalatacaprese/dimare/mista/verdesalad–tomatoandmozzarella/seafood/mixed/green
melanzaneallaparmigianaauberginewithparmesanandtomato
mortadella/salamesalami
pancettabacon
proscuittoham
peperonatagrilledpeppersdrenchedinoliveoil
Primi–firstcourses
brodettofishsoup
crespolinisavourypancakes
gnocchipotatoanddoughdumplings
ilminestronethickvegetablesoup
pastaefagiolipastaandbeansoup
ilprosciutto(cotto/crudo)(cooked/cured)ham
isuppl“ricecroquettes
lazuppasoup
Secondi–maincourses
LaCarneMeat
arrostoroastmeat
alfornobaked
allagrigliagrilled
involtiniskeweredveal,hametc
bencottowelldone(steak)
mediacotturamedium
alsanguerare
l’agnellolamb
labisteccasteak
labresaoladriedsaltedbeef
ilcapriolo/cervovenison
ilcarpacciowafer-thinbeef
ilcinghialewildboar
ilcontrofilettosirloinsteak
lecotolettecutlets
ilfagianopheasant
ilfegatoliver
ilfilettofillet
laleprehare
ilmaialepork
ilmanzobeef
l’ossobucoshinofveal
ilpollochicken
lepolpettemeatballs
ilpolpettonemeatloaf
laporchettasucklingpig
lasalsicciasausage
ilsaltimbocca(allaRomana)vealescalopeswithham
lescaloppineescalopes
stufatobraised,stewed
ilsugosauce
latrippatripe
ilvitelloveal
FruttidiMareSeafood
affumicatosmoked
allebracecharcoal-grilled
alferrogrilledwithoutoil
frittofried
allagrigliagrilled
ripienostuffed
alvaporesteamed
l’anguillaeel
l’aragostalobster
ilbaccalàdriedsaltedcod
ilbranzinoseabass
icalamarisquid
lecozzemussels
icrostaceishellfish
ilfrittomistomixedfriedfish
igamberettishrimps
igamberiprawns
ilgranchiocrab
ilmerluzzocod
leostricheoysters
ilpescefish
ilpescespadaswordfish
ilpolipooctopus
ilrisottodimareseafoodrisotto
lesardesardines
leseppiecuttlefish
lasogliolasole
surgelatifrozen
iltonnotuna
latrigliaredmullet
latrotatrout
levongoleclams
Ilegumi/laverdura–vegetables
gliasparagiasparagus
labietola(similartospinach)
ilcarciofoartichoke
ilcavolocabbage
lacicoriachicory
lacipollaonion
icontornisidedishes
ifagiolibeans
lefavebroadbeans
ilfinocchiofennel
ifunghimushrooms
l’indiviaendive/chicory
lamelanzanaaubergine/eggplant
lepatatepotatoes
lepatatinefrittechips/fries
ipeperonipeppers
ipisellipeas
ipomodoritomatoes
leprimiziespringvegetables
ilradicchiored,bitterlettuce
iravanelliradishes
ripienostuffed
rughettarocket
spinacispinach
laverduragreenvegetables
lazuccapumpkin/squash
zucchinicourgettes
Lafrutta–fruit
lealbicoccheapricots
learanceoranges
leciliegecherries
ilcocomerowatermelon
ifichifigs
lefragolestrawberries
fruttidiboscofruitsoftheforest
ilamponiraspberries
lamelaapple
laperapear
lapescapeach
leuvegrapes
Idolci–desserts
alcarrellodessertsfromthetrolley
lacassataSicilianicecreamwithcandiedpeel
ildolcedessert/sweet
lefrittellefritters
ungelato(dilampone/limone)(raspberry/lemon)icecream
unagranitawaterice
unamacedoniadifruttafruitsalad
unsemifreddosemi-frozendessert(manytypes)
iltartufo(nero)(chocolate)ice-creamdessert
iltiramisùcold,creamyrumandcoffeedessert
latortacake/tart
zabaglionesweetdessertmadewitheggsandMarsala
zuccottoice-creamliqueur
lazuppainglesetrifle
Basicfoods
acetovinegar
agliogarlic
burrobutter
formaggiocheese
frittataomelette
grissinibreadsticks
marmellatajam
oliooil
panebread
parmigianoParmesancheese
pepepepper
risorice
salesalt
senapemustard
uovaeggs
zuccherosugar
Health
chemistlafarmacia
antisepticcreamlacremaantisettica
insectrepellentl’insettifugo
stickingplasterilcerotto
sunburnscottaturadelsole
sunscreenlacremaantisolare
tissuesifazzolettidicarta
toothpasteildentifricio
upset-stomachpillslepilloleanti-coliche
FURTHERREADING
TravelCompanions
DesiringItaly,SusanCahill(ed).Writingsbyfemaleauthors(GeorgeEliot,EdithWharton,Muriel
Spark,etc)onthebeautyandcultureofItaly.
ItalianDays,BarbaraGrizuttiHarrison.AwittyandeloquentlookatItaly,revealingafascinatinginsight
intoanation.
History,SocietyandCulture
AHistoryofContemporaryItaly:SocietyandPolitics:1943–1988,ItalyandItsDiscontents,1980–
2001andSilvioBerlusconi:Television,PowerandPatrimony.PaulGinsborg–Amasterlyhistoryof
post-warItalyanditspoliticsiscompletedwithanaccountofthepowerofthecountry’smostpowerful
politician.
AlpsandSanctuaries,SamuelButler.The18th-centurytravellerdescribeshisjourneysaroundthelakes.
Mussolini,NicholasFarrell.AbiographyofthereviledFascistdictatorthatpullsnopunches.Itincludes
theperiodoftheSalòRepublic,whenMussolini’spowerbasewasontheshoresofLakeGarda.
TheHouseofGucci,SarahForden.AbiographyofMaurizioGucci,thelastfamilymembertorunthe
luxury-goodsfashionempire.
TheDarkHeartofItaly,TobiasJones.AlthoughflawedandobsessedwithaBerlusconierathatis
nowhistory,thisisanintriguinglookattheunderbellyofItaly,frompolitics,crimeand(lackof)
punishmenttotheItalianwayoflife.
HowtheEnglishMadetheAlps,JimRing.TheEnglishloveaffairwiththeAlps,fromitsbeginningsin
theearlyRomanticmovement,throughtoitsVictorianheyday.
LaBellaFigura,BeppeSevergnini.IncisivetourbehindtheseductivefacethatItalyputsonforvisitors
byacolumnistforthedailynewspaperCorrieredellaSera.
FictionandTravelogue
AFarewelltoArms,ErnestHemingway.ThenoveltellsthestoryofawoundedAmericansoldierinthe
ItalianarmywhoconvalescesinMilan,inadvertentlydesertswhilefleeingfromtheGermansbutis
reunitedwithhisbelovedinStresa,onLakeMaggiore.
Europa,ItalianNeighbours,ASeasonWithVerona,TimParks.ThenovelistobserveslifeinItalyina
seriesoflight-heartedandaffectionatetales.
FoodandWine
EatingupItaly:VoyagesonaVespa,MatthewFort.ExploringItaly’sregionsonanepicscootertrip,
MatthewFortpaintsacontemporaryportraitofItalythroughitsfoodandthepeoplewhoproduceit.
TrulyItalian,UrsulaFerrigno.AnItaliancookbookwithinspirationalrecipesandavegetarianfocusthat
featuresthehealthiestnorthernItaliancooking.
OtherInsightGuides
Withcomprehensivetravelcoverageandculturalbackgroundinformation,theInsightGuidesseries
includestitlesonFlorence,Sicily,Sardinia,TuscanyandVenice.
InsightExploreGuidesprovideaseriesofroutestoguideyouthroughthecityorregion.Titlesinclude
Florence,ItalianLakes,NaplesandtheAmalfiCoast,Rome,Sicily,Venice.
Durableandweatherproof,InsightFleximapscombineclearcartographywithessentialtravel
information.ItalianmapsincludeFlorence,LakeGardaandVerona,Rome,TuscanyandVenice.

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