Taz 4 1.75 filament upgrade

Taz 4 1.75 filament upgrade
Created by Ruiz Brothers
Last updated on 2015-01-15 10:45:10 PM EST
Guide Contents
Guide Contents
2
Overview
4
Convert TAZ4 to 1.75 filament!
4
3mm vs 1.75mm
4
Parts & Suppies
5
Tools
5
3D Printing
8
Setting for printing with 1.75mm
8
E-Step Settings for 1.75mm
9
Flexystruder
10
Guidler
11
Support Removal
11
Support Removed
12
Drive Gears
13
Disassembly
14
Disconnect Extruder Mount
14
Remove Extruder Mount from Gantry
15
Remove Fan from Extruder Mount
16
Unfasten Budaschnozzle
16
Remove Budaschnozzle
17
Unfasten Two Screws from Budaschnozzle
18
Remove Metal Plate from Budaschnozzle
18
Detach PTFE Tube from Isolator
19
PTFE Tube removed from Isolator
20
Clean Isolator
20
Remove Heat Sink and Washers
21
Replace PTFE Tubes
22
Attach Isolator
22
Reassemble Budaschnozzle
23
Assembly
25
Extruder Mounts
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25
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Unfasten nut from Extruder
26
Remove Gears
26
Move Motor to New Mount
27
Add washers to new mount
28
Install Motor to New Extruder Mount
28
Install Front Washer and Bearing
29
Assemble Gears
30
Fasten Small Gear to Motor
30
Reuse parts from Guidler
31
Install Nut to New Guidler
32
Install Bearing to New Guidler
32
Add New Guidler to New Extruder Mount
33
Assemble Extruder
34
Attach Budaschnozzle
34
Attach Fan
35
Connect Cables
36
Attach New Extruder Mount to Gantry
36
Loading ABS / PLA
36
Loading Flexible Filaments
37
1.75 Filament First Print Test
37
FAQ
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Overview
Convert TAZ4 to 1.75 filament!
In this guide, we're going to show you how to convert the TAZ4 filament extruder from 3mm
diameter to 1.75mm.
Our update to the extruder makes an improvement to the mount, allowing better feedrate
and retraction.
3mm vs 1.75mm
Apart from being very similar, there's three minor advantages to printing with one over the
other. Our main reasoning was we have lots of spools of 1.75mm filament!
1.75mm filament is quicker to heat up.
Requires less pressure to feed.
Prints higher resolution on smaller parts.
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Parts & Suppies
• 2.0 Budaschnozzle (http://adafru.it/dJd)
• 1.75mm PTFE tube (http://adafru.it/dJh)
• Updated extruder mount STLs
This conversion requires a pair of Teflon tubes that are used to guide the filament into the
threaded extension. The tube on the left is the default tube that works with 3mm. The tube
on the right has a noticeably smaller diameter, meant to support 1.75mm.
Tools
• 13mm socket wrench
• Taz 4 (http://adafru.it/dJi)
• Screwdriver Set (http://adafru.it/822)
• Flat Pliers (http://adafru.it/diI)
We have most of the tools in the shop for making this happen, but you're welcome to
improvise.
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The extruder features a modular design making this an easy upgrade. It's mostly composed
of 3d printed parts that are available for download (http://adafru.it/dJj).
Our update to the guilder (http://adafru.it/dJk) relieves top pressure, allows retraction and
prevents the filament from kinking making loading nice and smooth.
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The fully assembled Budaschnozzle extruder will allow you to print with 1.75mm diameter
filament.
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3D Printing
Download 1.75mm Guidler
http://adafru.it/dJw
Download 1.75mm Struder
http://adafru.it/dJx
Download 1.75mm Flexystruder
http://adafru.it/dJy
Download Simplify3D Profiles
for TAZ4
http://adafru.it/eg4
taz175Guidler.stl
taz175struder.stl
taz175flexstruder.stl
ABS
No Raft/Support
%50 infill
2 shells
0.2 layer height
Head bed: 85
Takes around 4 hours to print both
pieces.
Setting for printing with 1.75mm
Retractio n Distance:
1.7mm
Retractio n Speed:
1200 mm/min
Print Speed (Travel Rate):
5600 mm/min
FeedRate:
4800 mm/min
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E-Step Settings for 1.75mm
"Wade" extruders use a NEMA motor to drive a large reduction gear that turns a "hobbed
bolt." We'll need to edit the E-steps that turns the gear, rotation moves using the numbers
below:
+0857.1
You'll need to print the three updated parts for using 1.75 filament. The Wade Extruder,
Flexystruder and Guidler have been update to allow 1.75 filament!
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Flexystruder
The Flexystruder works best with our ninjaflex (http://adafru.it/1690) filament. We
recommend using two extruders if you plan to switch between filaments or dual print.
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Guidler
The updated Guidler includes a tube that helps guide the filament to the bearing without it
kinking.
Support Removal
Print all parts without supports, the model includes support structures under the bearing slot.
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Support Removed
Here's what the part should look like after the support material has been removed. Don't
sorry about the discoloring!
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Drive Gears
Take care when removing the big (http://adafru.it/dJl) and small (http://adafru.it/dJm) gears.
Dont' worry if they get to dirty or break, just print another set (http://adafru.it/dJj) out!
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Disassembly
To convert the default extruder from using 3mm filament to 1.75, you'll need to disassemble
the default extruder.
Disconnect Extruder Mount
Disconnect the cable from the extruder that contains three wires for the fan, motor and
heater block.
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Remove Extruder Mount from Gantry
Use a 2.5 mm hex bit (http://adafru.it/822) to unfasten the screw and release the extruder
mount assembly.
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Remove Fan from Extruder Mount
Unfasten the two screws that are holding the fan to the extruder mount.
Unfasten Budaschnozzle
Turn to the mount on it's side, switch to a 3mm hex bit and loosen both screws from the
assembly.
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Remove Budaschnozzle
Move the extruder and motor aside. The metal mount plate is attached the nozzle and
heater block.
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Unfasten Two Screws from Budaschnozzle
Remove the mount plate by unscrewing the the two 2.5 hex screws from the wooden
aligners.
Remove Metal Plate from Budaschnozzle
The mount plate is aligned to PTFE tube, use slight force to pull the plate off.
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Detach PTFE Tube from Isolator
Use a side to side pulling motion to remove the bottom PTFE tube from the PEEK Isolator.
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PTFE Tube removed from Isolator
Take care not to bend any of the wires to the heater block.
Clean Isolator
Use a sharp needle to poke out the left over filament remaining around the PEEK Isolator.
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Remove Heat Sink and Washers
Slide each heat sink blade and washer off the PTFE tube one by one.
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Replace PTFE Tubes
Switch out the 3mm PTFE and switch it out for the 1.75 version. Slide on each heat sink blade
and washer.
Attach Isolator
Align the wooden plates so that the heater block cutouts match up with the wiring.
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Reassemble Budaschnozzle
Hold the plate on top of the wooden aligner and add both screws to reassemble.
Yay, our nozzle can now fit 1.75mm filament! Next We'll move the motor and gears over to
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the updated extruder mount.
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Assembly
Extruder Mounts
The Flexystruder works best with our ninjaflex filament. We recommend using two extruders
if you plan to switch between filaments or dual print. The mount on the left is for hard plastic
filament, while the mount on the right is for flexible filament.
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Unfasten nut from Extruder
Use a 13mm socket to loosen the large gear nut in the center of the bearing.
Remove Gears
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Rotate the small gear until you see the small screw. Loosen the small screw using a 1.5mm
hex bit. Remove the gears by lifting both up at the same time.
Move Motor to New Mount
Swap the motor into the new extruder mount. Switch to a 2.5mm hex bit and loosen to the
screws holding the motor to the mount.
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Add washers to new mount
Reuse the three washers in the new extruder mount from the previous extruder mount.
Install Motor to New Extruder Mount
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Align the motor to the holes on the mount. Reuse the 2.5mm hex screws and secure the
motor onto the new mount.
Install Front Washer and Bearing
Insert the washer into the grooves of the new mount and place the bearing on top.
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Assemble Gears
Slide both gears into the new extruder mount by placing them in at the same time.
Fasten Small Gear to Motor
Reuse the tiny nut inside the small gear. Fasten the small screw to securely hold the gear to
the motor.
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Reuse parts from Guidler
Remove the bearing and small nut from the previous guidler. We will reuse the small nut,
screw, bearing and bearing bolt pieces on the new deign.
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Install Nut to New Guidler
Place the small nut back into grove of the left mounting tab. The small nut holds the guidler
arm to the extruder mount.
Install Bearing to New Guidler
Snap the bearing and bolt into the the new guidler grove. The bearing pushes the filament up
against the gear teeth that pull it down to the Threaded Extension and into the nozzle.
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Add New Guidler to New Extruder Mount
Line up the guidler with the new extruder mount and tighten the screw and washer.
Reuse the small washer from the extruder mount on the new design.
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Assemble Extruder
Align the extruder and Budaschnozzle over the assembled mount.
Attach Budaschnozzle
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Screw the nut closest to the motor first by hold it down with your finger.
Attach Fan
Position the fan on the new mount extruder. Fasten the the two screws to secure it onto the
new mount.
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Connect Cables
Reconnect the fan, motor and extruder cables.
Attach New Extruder Mount to Gantry
Fasten the single screw in the top center of the extruder mount to secure it to the gantry.
Loading ABS / PLA
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To load or unload filament, we recommend controlling TAZ4 through a slicing program like
Simplify3D. In the jobs control section, run the extrude / retract script.
While the Budaschnozzle is extruding, load ABS / PLA by passing it through the filament
guide first, then use the latch to clap the filament against the gear teeth. Tighten the two
screws until you can feel a good grip on the filament.
Loading Flexible Filaments
To load ninjaflex, use a mm threaded screw to tight the filament up against the gear teeth. If
ninjaflex doesn't load, make sure that you have pushed all of the previous filament out with a
long needle poker thats comes with the TAZ4 toolset.
1.75 Filament First Print Test
Once the filament is extruding, now you need to run a test print!
We recommend printing an object that takes about a half hour to test for print stability.
Watch the first couple of layers to insure extrusion is even and not clogging. If your filament
is having issues extruding, try using our recommended slicing settings.
Extruder Temperature
PLA: 240
ABS: 240
ABS Heat Bed: 120
Ninjaflex: 235
Retractio n Distance:
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1.7mm
Retractio n Speed:
1200 mm/min
Print Speed (Travel Rate):
5600 mm/min
FeedRate:
4800 mm/min
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FAQ
Why are my prints are coming out stringy?
Make sure the two Tilt Screws that hold the Guidler to the filament are tighten. The
bearing on the Guidler helps push the filament up against the gear teeth, pushing the
filament down the nozzle.
How do I know if I have a clogged extruder?
If the gears are moving with no filament extruding, you may have a clog. Try heating up
the extruder and using the included metal poker to force the filament down the nozzle. If
the clog doesn't poke through, we will have to remove the Budaschnozzle from the
extruder mount. The clogs usually occur were the metal mount plate and extruder mount
meet.
Do I have to relevel my build plate for 1.75mm filament?
The Budaschnozzle may have shifted during the conversion. It's a good idea to run the
leveling script through your slicing software to ensure your build plate is leveled.
Does lulzbot offer customer support?
Yes, you can post questions on: http://forum.lulzbot.com/ (http://adafru.it/dJn)
© Adafruit Industries
Last Updated: 2015-01-15 10:45:12 PM EST
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