zebra assembly instructions mma / boxing ring

ZEBRA ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS MMA / BOXING RING ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS: MMA RINGS/BOXING RING ‐ see photos for clarification Important: Remember that SAFETY is the most important factor in the assembly and use of this product. If you did not get the wood for the ring floor, from us, you will need to purchase either 2x10’s or 2x12’s. You will buy the wood in pieces that are one half the size of your ring. For example, if you have a 20 ft. ring, you will buy them in ten foot lengths. Two x stock (2x10 or 2x12) is typically three‐quarters of an inch less than it’s advertised dimension. A 2x12 is really only 11.25 inches wide. So, calculate your wood purchase accordingly. STEP #1: Be sure and protect the floor of the arena. Rubber pads under all poles are suggested. 
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Locate the area that you want to be the CENTER of the boxing ring. Stand the short center support pole up in the center. This is a 4x4” pole with channel welded on all four sides. Measure out half the distance of your total ring size (20 ft ring = 10 feet, 24 ft ring = 12 ft, etc) and place the 4 short side poles in that approx. area. These short poles have two channels welded to each side and one in the front. This one channel will face the inside of the ring area. STEP #2: Now stand up the 4 corner poles, in each corner, in line with the other 4 short poles. This will give you the approx. area of your ring. STEP #3: Start by placing your side rails on. The side rail will be a 5” piece of structural steel. The end “legs” on the side rail will sit down inside the channel welded onto the ring poles and the short side poles. Place these side rails onto the ring poles and the short side poles by dropping their end “legs” into the bottom channels on the poles. Do this all the way around the ring, with all 8 of them. Remember, the channel that is welded onto the side rails is fixed to accommodate the cross members, or “floor joists”. These will line up with the channels welded to the center beams of the ring. STEP # 4: Now you can slide the frame into better position by putting the 4 main support beams on. You have two beams that are 4 inches wide (5” tall I‐beams)and do not have channel welded onto them. They run in a line, from the center support pole out to the short side pole. These will go on the ring, opposite of each other, forming a straight line all the way across the ring. This is where your boards will meet, in the center of the ring. That is why this I‐beam is wider than the rest, so you have the extra room for the boards to meet. Next, you will put the other two main cross beams in place. These have channel welded on both sides and this channel will line up with the channel that is welded onto the top portion of the side rails. If the direction of these two beams is important, there will be an arrow welded on them, pointing to the center short pole. That end will connect to the center pole. If there is not an arrow, then these beams will fit either way. STEP #5: “Eyeball” the straightness of your main beams. Move the ring around until you have them looking straight. You will truly square your ring up, by using a tape measure, see step # 6 Step # 6: Attach the 4 underneath cross cables. The screw pin shackle will attach to the loops on the short center pole and the turnbuckle end will attach to the corner ring poles. Open the turnbuckles up all the way and hook them to the ring pole. Then attach the shackle to the center pole. If they all fit, then you are already pretty “square”. If not, you will need to square your ring by using a tape measure and measuring in a diagonal fashion from pole to pole (forming an X). Slide the ring around until both measurements are the same. This will make you square. Even after you have the four cables attached (do not tighten them yet) you should measure and square your ring, so the wood will fit properly. To get the ring “square”, you need to measure in a diagonal fashion (forming an X with the tape measure). Measure from one pole, to the opposite pole, diagonally. Get that measurement and then do the same in the other direction. The two measurements need to be the same, in order to be square. If you are 8 inches too long on one side, you will slide the ring, only 4 inches, down one side, towards the short side. This will shorten the long side by 4 inches and lengthen the short side by 4 inches. Get the ring square and then move the short poles in and out to get the 4 main beams straight. You need to be square, so your wood will fit properly. Also the cross members will fit if the ring is square. STEP #7: Place the 3” channel cross members into the floor section of the ring. These will drop into the channel on the side rails and onto the 2 main beams. This will form your floor “joists”. STEP #8: Place the wood on your ring. The 2x10 or 2x12 boards will start in the center, on the WIDE beams without channel. They will start in the center and run out, across the other cross members (floor joists) and land on the edge of the side rail. The steel plate welded along the top of the side rail will hold the boards in and stop them from sliding off of the ring. This should be a tight fit. Place all of the boards on and make sure that you have a good solid fit all the way around STEP #9: Your padding will go on next. It is 1” thick POLYETHELENE / EVA padding. Trim off any excess with a razor knife and straight edge. STEP # 10: Put you mat cover on the ring and spread it out so you have it in place. STEP #11: Now you can go under the ring and tighten the turnbuckles a bit. Use a bar in the end of the turnbuckle, that is attached to the steel cable, so the end with the cable does not spin. You only want to turn the middle piece of the turnbuckle. This is very important. Tighten it until the bottom of the pole pulls in a bit and the top of the pole tilts backwards just a bit. STEP # 12: RING ROPES: To hang your ring ropes, you will need to open up all 16 of your turnbuckles, ( MMA rings have 20) to their maximum length. Hang them on the ring poles, 4 on each pole. Please note….the turnbuckles are marked with an “R” and an “L”. Hang the “R” end of the turnbuckle on the ring pole loop. This will allow you to tighten the turnbuckle by turning it clockwise (to the right) and loosen it by turning it to the left, or counter clockwise. Your ring ropes have one end that is already tightened for you, using rope clamps. These clamps have been tightened and tape has been placed over the clamps. The ropes are clamped to one of the round rope retaining rings. There are three other rope retaining rings on the ring rope, for a total of four. Pull your ring rope around the inside of the ring, hanging the rope onto each pole, by hooking the “L” end of the turnbuckle to the next round ring, on the ring rope. When you have them all hanging on the turnbuckles, you will adjust the ring ropes by pulling the other end of the ring rope, that is not permanently attached to the ring, through the ring until all of the slack is out of the ring rope. Do this by loosening the rope clamps that are just finger tightened on the end of the ring rope. Loosen the clamps and pull the rope through the round ring until all of the slack is out and the ropes appear tight. Secure the rope, so it will not slip through the clamps and then go around the ring, and adjust each corner, by sliding the round ring on the rope to make the corners straight. Make certain that you have the same amount of rope on all four sides, adjusting the round rings as necessary, and when you have the ropes straight and even, tighten the rope clamps tightly, to keep the rope from slipping out of the clamps. The clamps should be very tight. Do this to all four ring ropes, keeping the measurement the same. If you have a large excess of rope, on the side that you have adjusted, you can cut it off, in several ways. You can use a hacksaw, or other very sharp saw to cut the rope, or use a cutting wheel, on an electric grinder to cut the rope. Be careful to only cut the excess ring rope. Once you have all of the ropes hung on your poles, and are satisfied with them, you can tighten the turnbuckles to take up the slack and tighten the ropes for use. Turn the turnbuckles clockwise, if you installed them as described, keeping them all equal. It is best to do a little in each corner, going all the way around the ring, keeping the turnbuckles the same in each corner and on all four ropes. The ropes may stretch, slightly with use, and you can tighten them with the turnbuckles to keep them tight. Should they ever become too loose, even after you have tightened your turnbuckles, you can loosen the turnbuckles (open all the way) and loosen your clamps, and retighten the ropes a bit to take out any slack due to stretching. We use a low stretch ring rope, so this should not be something that you will have to do often. NOTE: If you are getting CABLE ring ropes, they are already sized to fit. No round rings are needed on the cable ropes. Just hook the turnbuckles in each corner. STEP 13: Tie down your mat cover. Use the lacing rope and run the rope through the eyelets on the mat cover and then hook the rope around the hooks on the bottom side rail. Get the mat cover TIGHT and no wrinkles. STEP #14: Tie on your ring aprons. Tie from the front of the pole (inside the ring) so the apron lays on the ring floor. Tie one end and then stretch the other end of the string very tightly and tie it to the pole. NOTE: If you have the VINYL MAT COVER (best for MMA) the mat cover is already made onto the mat cover and just needs to be folded down into place. STEP 15: Finish your ring by placing the ring rope separators/spacers on, the pole pads, and the corner cushions. Put your ring steps into place and check assembly to make sure you have everything correct. SAFETY FIRST!! PHOTOS – ASSEMBLY STEPS Monster Boxing / MMA Elevated Rings corner pole – side rails connect to corner poles side pole – side rails connect to short side poles 4 of the side rails have channel welded on them – for cross members tie down hooks, for your lacing rope/mat cover are on the outside of all 8 siderails 4 main beams attach to center pole and 4 short side poles main beams have legs which drop into channels attach 4 cables, using screw pin shackles to center pole – then connect using ½” x 6” turnbuckles, to the corner ring poles. These are for underneath support. cross members attach to side rails with channel and 2 main beams with channel. start adding boards – these run across the cross members and meet in the center of the ring. The main I‐Beam has a steel stop plate welded in the center and the boards push up flush to that. wood complete hang your ring ropes – turnbuckle onto hook adjust your ring ropes and clamp – saw of excess

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