Dreaming of Whitewater A R OYA L A D V E N T U R E P. A . S. E CLEAR CREEK C L E A N I N G YO U R G O R E - T E X ISSUE ONE Welcome to CONTENTS DREAMING OF W H I T E WAT E R Sometimes the closet we get to kayaking is dreaming about it Dreaming of Whitewater is a way to think about kayaking while off the water... Sometimes the closest we get to kayaking is dreaming about it. COVER SHOT Havasu Creek, Grand Canyon National Park, AZ Photo: Daan Jimmink I CONTACT INFORMATION Dreaming Of Whitewater 111 Waller Street Murchison, 7007 New Zealand E W B [email protected] dreamingofwhitewater.com dreamingofwhitewater.blogspot.com Contact Us Here All photos are property of Dreaming of Whitewater unless otherwise stated. If you are interested in any of the images, please contact us. Dreaming of Whitewater is a project that has come about through the ideas of people we have worked with. We are often asked about what we have been doing, adventures we have been on, any trouble we have gotten into - and how do you do that thing again? The Dreaming of Whitewater magazine is a way to share some of our ideas, information, photos and stories. We aim to create a resource that you enjoy receiving, so your input is valued. We want to hear your ideas about what you would like to see in the Dreaming of Whitewater magazine. We hope that Dreaming of Whitewater will help keep your kayaking and paddling inspiration alive while you are off the water. Welcome to DWW 2 A Royal Adventure 4 Tech Tip: P.A.S.E 10 Trip Report: Clear Creek 12 Enjoy Issue One! Daan Jimmink Jess Matheson Gear Talk: Cleaning Your Gore-Tex 14 Photo Gallery 17 Find us on Facebook Dreaming of Whitewater is a digital whitewater kayaking magazine written by Daan Jimmink and Jess Matheson. DWW is distributed free to readers however if you would like to support this publication you are welcome to donate through the PayPal link below. DREAMING OF WHITE WATER SUPPORTERS: 4 12 14 DWW 3 A ROYAL ADVENTURE R o y a l G o r g e, N F A m e r i c a n A ROYAL ADVENTURE By Jess Matheson As per our usual, we had a window of time to go paddling. We were fired up to get a mission underway and had a team of friends on standby who were just as keen. There were a couple of trips that we thought would be good-to-go in that time so we were pretty excited, but as things would have it Royal Gorge, Dinkey Creek, the South Merced, Devil’s Canyon and Bald Rock Canyon all came “in” within a few days. Most California trips have a “window of optimum flow”. On one side the flow will be too high and on the other, the flow too low (and in some cases, finished) until the following season. The eternal California challenge lies in being in the right place at the right time with the right team to catch the best flows. The sudden availability of so many trips meant a couple of things for us… 1: Spoiled for choice, we were in a position to pick and choose a mission from some of Cali’s best multi-day trips and 2: we would therefore unfortunately miss a bunch of trips due to coinciding windows of flow. Looking into Heath Springs, Royal Gorge on the North Fork of the American. A decision was made and we had a team of seven: Shannon Mast, Matt Coles, Louise Urwin, Tyler Fox, Gordy Bulford, Daan and myself… Royal Gorge was on. Royal Gorge is a three day wilderness trip in the upper reaches of the North Fork of the American River, famous for its big waterfalls. The Royal Gorge section itself is about 16 miles paddled over the first two days and then a monster paddle out on Generation Gap and Giant Gap (26 miles) on the last day. This year Royal Gorge had a window of about a week – early in the week the flow was still on “the high side of good” and a few days later “the low side of low”. The quality of your trip can depend greatly on which part of the window you are on the water for. We needed a way to get to the river, and for Royal Gorge – a shuttle driver. Seven boats, seven kits, seven paddles, seven paddlers and a shuttle driver… Enter Mum (the mini van) and Ryan. In typical Kiwi fashion we started late (we actually had five Kiwi’s, one Aussie and a Canadian). Some major fluffing around, some navigational glitches, a mismatch of vehicle and terrain, mud puddles, a lot of snow for July and an empty gas tank made an early put-on impossible. We ended up hitching a ride for the last five miles on quite a big truck driven by a very nice man, which saw us finally putting on for day one of Royal Gorge at approxiDWW 5 very exhausted state) his boat was hauled out and back onto land. It was a great relief for the team to have Matt’s boat back as without it, he would have been forced to hike out. By the clock it was now 12.30pm and the team concluded that as we had lost a good bit of our “team flow” at Heath Springs, it would be wise to portage the next part - Crux Gorge that begins at the bottom of Heath Two. Things were quiet as we each walked and pondered our situation: lucky Matt got to the side, lucky we got Matt’s boat back, one split paddle left between seven, technically still on the day one section yet half way through day two with at least another three big drops to go (portages for us due to a sudden lack of spare split paddles and remoteness of our situation) and a lot of other rapids between. Shan on the Breakfast Drop, early on day two. mately 5.30pm… We did consider this to be less than ideal. A ROYAL ADVENTURE The locals kindly reminded us that the first five miles would be through private property so we would not be able to stop until after then. A late start, some fun rapids, an induction into Royal Gorge portaging and fading daylight saw us have to ignore the plentiful “No Trespassing” signs and pitch an incognito camp about three miles in. Against typical Kiwi fashion, we woke early to try and catch up on what we should have paddled the first day. Unfortunately we needed to start a little slower after Daan spread word of his nasty night of sickness and resulting low-to-no energy. Alas, we put on about 9am and started things off at a pace we hoped to continue. We paddled through some beautiful mini-gorges and making what we felt was good time, before arriving at Heath Springs. This was a milestone (actually mile fives) for us – a gauge of how far down we were as none of our team had done the trip before. Heath Springs is the home of Heath One, a quite clean 40 foot drop into a short and moving pool that leads straight into Heath Two, a 60 foot drop into a completely walled in pool complete with scenic cave. A bunch of our team fired Heath One resulting in one clean line, one very flat landing, one skirt implosion, two broken paddles and one swim. Matt’s swim wasn’t too bad (he swam to the side pretty quickly, as you would). The problem was that we failed to rescue his boat and paddle from the short, moving pool before they disappeared, in a very serene manner, over the horizon line of Heath Two. On the steep descent back to the river, I slipped and didn’t let go of my boat fast enough. There was some forward flipping action down a reasonably steep rocky bank before finally (and very fortunately) coming to a stop. One seriously sprained ankle and a smashed elbow, thanks. Having trouble bearing my own body weight let alone my 80+ pound boat, I ended up shuffling the rest of the way down to river level on my bottom while everyone else helped get all the boats down. The good news of Royal Gorge: the majority of the river between the “big drops” is mostly Class IV+ read and run boogie with a few bigger rapids scattered in there to keep things interesting. We paddled some beautiful boulder gardens and drops down to Rattlesnake Falls, a 50ish footer that signals the end of day one for most people. Not being most people, this was us at 3.30pm on day two. Although we would have loved to have stopped and camped we still had at least another 10 miles of Royal Gorge to paddle and at our rate, we were on track to run out of food, or river flows, but probably both. The rest of the afternoon passed pretty quickly as we put our heads down to try and make as much distance as we could before dark. The team was getting tired with all the scouting and some long portages. When we chose our Royal Adventure we didn’t know that Royal Gorge was such a portage-fest if you weren’t running the big drops. Maybe we would have done things differently. Maybe bought a split paddle each. We portaged Scott’s Drop (the drop is m-a-s-s-iv-e) and with daylight fading on us (for the second time in two days) we started to portage around Wabena, a 70 footer. This particular portage involved climbing up a wickedly steep and rocky gully with your boat, followed by vicious Manza- Some creative rock climbing led to a view of a broken paddle in the pool and sure enough, Matt’s boat floating deep in the massive cave on river left. As the sixty foot deep pool is walled in and said cave is 40 feet high and severely undercut, rescue options are a little limited. Thanks to Daan and his talent for rope work, we were able to set up an anchor for a sixty foot high, vertical mechanical advantage system from a giant crack in the rock above the cave. It took six of our seven throw bags and nearly every karabiner and prussic we had to create the system. Matt abseiled (rappelled) down into the cave from the anchor, clipped a line onto his boat and started ascending back up using a set of prussics. Once he was back at the top (in a Tyler Fox, Heath One. Matt ascending back out, Heath Two Lu flying sometime after Rattlesnake, day two. DWW 7 nita and steep boulders onto an oak-infested, mosquito-laden semi-trail to get you back to the river. Starting this part at 7pm, after 10 hours already on the water, led to what was later described by the team as a “below average” experience. Most likely, it seemed worse than it actually was. We were tired. A ROYAL ADVENTURE The boys chose a sweet beach across the river to camp at which, after 11 hours of adventure and post-Wabena portage, looked amazing. Spirits were high with a fire, food and the prospect of rest and sleep. But before long we heard a helicopter thumping up the valley, which promptly noticed us and began circling low overhead. Quietly dreaming of a helicopter but certainly not asking for one, the chopper finally landed on the beach across from us. It turns out we weren’t the only team having a Royal Adventure: the helicopter was looking for Heath Springs to heli-evac out a guy who had broken his back on Heath One earlier in the day, sometime after we were there. And then, just to top off our day, we had spent 20 minutes hobbling around our beach extinguishing all the fire embers that were scattered when the helicopter took off. Setting fire to the wilderness area would have really topped things off. Another early start and we were on the water again. A morning surprise: on a toilet excursion someone noticed a cinnamon-coloured black bear that had recently drowned. From what we could tell, it was entangled in a thick wire cable that had obviously been left behind by someone. It was a little surreal given that we did still feel quite remote and made for a momentarily sad start to our day. The paddling seemed to mellow a bit after Wabena and we felt like we were back to making good time. Our destination: Euchre Trail between Generation Gap and Giant Gap. We had left a vehicle at the trail in case we wanted an earlier take out. (It was actually so we could finish Royal Gorge early and get to Dinkey Creek but on our Royal Schedule that was never going to happen). The day started to drag on and on, as did the miles of paddling. Some scouting, some portaging and one swim but mostly just trying to make distance. At best we estimated that from Wabena we had four miles of Royal Gorge left and then 12 miles on Generation Gap to the car. Those miles turned out to be the longest 16 miles, ever. By 4pm, we were pretty sure that we had missed the trail to the car. Shattered and broken, we momentarily rested on a sunny beach and laughed about life while munching up on the last of our food. For some reason team spirits were still reasonably high, even as we pondered the approaching likelihood of paddling Giant Gap that evening and probably camping out, with only a bottle of Jagermeister as all food was now gone. that did a 90 degree bend, passed a small tributary on river right and discovered a footbridge across the river. It was 5.30pm and we had finally made the trail. Two hours of boat-hiking, group separation, the most savage mosquitoes of the trip and 2000 feet of vertical gain over two miles of steep switchbacks saw us finishing our Royal Gorge trip at the Euchre Trail carpark. Tired, broken, sick, injured, hungry and thirsty but we had finally made it… And we celebrated. Matt and Shan Kayaker and photographer Darin McQuoid has a fantastic website that documents many of California’s harder river trips. He has a very good write-up of Royal Gorge (and some beautiful photos) that you can check out here at: www.kayakphoto.com/darinmcquoid/royalgorge.html For further California inspiration, his other trip reports (in the River Directory section) are well worth a read and his photos are outstanding. Semi-rested but well-laughed, we put back on the water and ran a few more rapids… Tired, over it and hoping for something, anything. We had our heads down and were working hard when, in a truly astonishing moment, the River Gods briefly shined on us. We paddled a rapid The landing of Heath One,. Photo: Tyler Fox DWW 9 TECH TIP P. A . S. E By Daan Jimmink Good kayak technique comes down to having solid technical foundations, so it doesn’t make sense to go into the advanced stuff before going through the basics. We hope this information will make more sense than listening to a bunch of Kiwi’s yelling at you to “idge” and “iddy”. As we come from a teaching background, making moves with ease and feeling stylish is our goal. There is a lot of technical kayak information out there including many written documents about the following information. We are not trying to reinvent the wheel, but simply summarise what we are teaching as we believe that it works the best. P.A.S.E: Position, Angle, Speed, and Edge. These are some fundamental components of kayaking; whether you are crossing the current, surfing a wave or lining up a boof. In this article we talk P.A.S.E in the context of exiting an eddy (and works in a similar way for entering an eddy). ANGLE “Angle” is considered the direction you are pointing when you cross the eddyline. The amount of angle you have translates to the amount of surface area of your kayak that is exposed to the current as you cross into the new water (the current). The more area that is exposed (a flatter angle, maybe 70° to 90°) then the faster the kayak will turn downstream and the harder the turn is to control. A higher or steeper angle (40° – 50°) means there is less area exposed so your kayak will turn downstream slower which gives you more control over the turn. 45° to the eddyline is the angle used in most situations as it is the best balance of surface area exposed to the current and control of turn. Depending on your situation, it will be sometimes appropriate to adjust the angle to be steeper or flatter. There is a “sweet spot” where if you have the correct angle, everything else will work and the turn feels relatively easy. Angle is the component that will make or break your turn and it is well worth spending time on this. A good angle will save you a lot of trouble. SPEED Control of your speed as you exit an eddy is important. When exiting an eddy, you want to be moving at the same speed or a little faster than the current you are about to enter. In general, more speed will make it easier to cross the eddy line, however it is possible to have either too much or not enough speed. Too much speed can overpower the turn, which makes it hard to turn where you want. If you do not have enough speed to cross the eddyline, the kayak will spin out on the eddyline. It will turn downstream quickly which is hard to control and will lose whatever speed you did have. Most of the time between 3 and 5 good strokes will be plenty to get your boat up to speed. If it is a fast eddyline, you will want to be moving a bit faster and if it is a more mellow eddyline then you won’t need as much speed. Starting further back for more of a run up may occasionally help, but most likely will make you tired from all the extra paddling. Experiment with how many strokes it takes to get your boat up to a good speed… It’s probably less than you think. POSITION TECH TIP: P.A.S.E POSITION “Position” refers to where you are within the eddy and relative to the eddy line. Are you close to the bank or right next to the eddyline? Are you squished at the top of the eddy, or floating out the back? Having the correct position within the eddy allows you to develop momentum and cross the eddy line in the best spot. If we start too close to the bank, it can sometimes be hard to get a clear run to the eddyline. If we start too far back in the eddy, we can lose control of our direction before we have made it to the eddy line. If we are too close to the eddy line or too high up the eddy, it can be hard to generate enough speed to make it across the eddy line in one piece. To develop momentum in the correct direction of travel, you want to… * Generally start a third to half way down the eddy, so you can exit near the top * Be about 3 – 5 strokes from the eddyline, to get speed and stay in control * Have a clear path, free of obstacles between you and the eddyline EDGE EDGE “Edge” refers to the amount of sideways tilt your kayak has as you cross the eddyline into the current and we talk about lifting the upstream knee to do this. The amount of edge you need is relevant to the speed of the current. The stronger the current the more edge you will need and a slower current will require less edge. In your acceleration to the eddyline your kayak will be flat (no edge) and as you cross the eddyline into the current you need to lift your upstream knee. Some people find it helpful to think about their edging on a scale: where 0 is flat and 3 is extreme (the most you can hold without flipping over). A “2” edge seems to work best in most situations. ANGLE As we all know, every eddy is different and the information in this article is quite generalized. Part of becoming a proficient kayaker is being able to adjust your P.A.S.E to different situations… Application of personal judgement on demand! Play around with your P.A.S.E in a friendly eddy or on a run that you are comfortable with and it will certainly help you improve your entering and exiting of eddies. DWW 11 TRIP REPORT Clear Creek, Northern California By Jess Matheson require some creative boat scouting, or bank scouting to avoid some nasties in the form of undercuts and wood. The rapids themselves are really fun, full of boofs and chicanes, each ending in a big deep green pool. There is a potential portage about a third of the way down the Upper, and one mandatory portage near the end around a burly, narrow slot drop number. This is about a half mile below the high road bridge and before the can’t-scout-can’t portage-must-run rapid. The scenery is absolutely incredible, especially as the run drops into a deep, steep walled gorge. After the bridge, the portage and the must-run rapid comes the end of the Upper and the start of the Lower. You can access the Lower without paddling the Upper. There is a Forest Service fishing trail/river access sign and a clear area used for parking, before you cross the high road bridge over the river. The Lower is a beautiful Class 2+ - 3 run with lots of great eddies and crosses to do. The rapids are fun with some cool moves to make inside a very scenic mini-gorge. Things slowly mellow out towards the take out at the Highway 96 bridge. Jess enjoying the quality water of Clear Creek. TRIP REPORT: Clear Creek Clear Creek (Upper and Lower) Tributary of the Klamath, Northern California Zak in part two of the unscoutable, unportageable rapid. 2 - 4 hours Class IV+ Off Highway 96 near Happy Camp We got onto Clear Creek this summer with Rush Sturges and Zak Shaw. We planned on paddling with Silas Beaver but like lots of things in kayaking, that part didn’t quite work out. He told us where to put on for the Upper – about 20 minutes up the trail - so we were left to figure out the rest. Silas was on the river at the same time of us so we didn’t see him but he did kindly do our shuttle for us. Clear Creek was quite different to what we had been regularly experiencing in the Salmon Valley, which made for an awesome trip. The Upper section is a lot tighter and has this cool googley-bedrock going on for most of it. The run is mostly Class 4+ to 5- and it certainly deserves this rating given that near the end of the Upper there is a can’t-scout-can’t-portage-must-run stacked rapid. Fortunately we had Rush and Daan, The Probes. The water is amazingly clear (Clear Creek!?) and is mostly pool drop in nature. Some of the rapids Rush dropping back in after the main portage. Although there is no specific gauge for Clear Creek, you can reference a flow estismate using the Dreamflows gauge for Indian Creek, near Happy Camp (see link below). Clear Creek is usually paddleable when Indian Creek is reading between 600 and 1200 cfs. These photos were taken at a flow around 750cfs. www.dreamflows.com/graphs/day.216.php. DWW 13 GEAR TALK C l e a n i n g Yo u r G o r e - Tex By Daan Jimmink CLEANING To clean your garments you will need: * A sink, tub or washing machine * Nikwax Tech Wash * Nikwax TX Direct Note: Do not machine wash garments if taped seams have become dislodged. Do not use detergents. Clean all visible detergent from machine. Remove all non-washable parts of garment. Attach any Velcro together. Do any zippers up. Follow care instructions found on garment. IF USING A WASHING MACHINE: PART ONE: Clean using Nikwax Tech Wash (NTW) GEAR TALK: Cleaning Your Gore-Tex When I brought my first GoreText garment, I remember being so impressed with it that I ran it under a tap just to test the waterproofness and then showed the rest of my family. This season after meeting a client by the name of Clifford, I started to realise that I wasn’t looking after my gear as well as I could be. His Gore-Tex products still looked like new, and when I asked him how old his kayaking gear was he replied “it’s ten years old and twice a year I give it a clean with Nikwax”. Here is some of what I learnt from Clifford. Gore-Tex is a multiple-layer waterproof fabric that relies on the fibers staying in line to remain waterproof. The outer layer of fabric is also treated with a Durable Water Repellent polymer (DWR) that penetrates the fibers and causes water to bead up and roll off. Over time and with garment use the fibers will become dirty and scuffed up. The DWR coating will naturally wear off through regular use but some things can accelerate this including dirt, insect repellent, sunblock, oils and detergents. Keeping the fibers clean and straight, and maintaining the DWR coating will help to prolong the life and beading of your garment. There are two ways to restore the waterproofness to your GoreTex products: cleaning and heat treatment. Cleaning is a two stage process using two Nikwax products: Nikwax Tech Wash to clean the fabric and fibres, and Nikwax TX Direct to restore the DWR coating. If the item is clean and beading already, a light heat treatment can enhance the fabrics water repellency. In the following instructions, “garments” refers to kayaking gear such as Gore-Tex drytops, drypants and drysuits. Zippers and latex seals are ok in the wash as long as the water is warm, not hot and only the Nikwax washes are used (no other detergents). These methods have since been tried and tested and I can confirm that it does indeed increase the water repellency of Gore-Tex. I hope that this information will help to increase the life span of your own Gore-Tex gear. Remember that if you look after your gear, it will look after you… Good luck! 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Shake NTW well before use. Pre-treat stains using NTW and a sponge or soft brush. Remove all detergent build-up from detergent dispenser. Place a maximum of two garments in washing machine. Use 2-3 full caps (100-150mL) of NTW for 1-2 garments. Warm machine wash (check garment label for details) PART TWO: Reactivate DWR using Nikwax TX Direct (NTXD) You do not have to dry your garments between these washes. 1. Shake NTXD well before use. 2. Remove all detergent build-up from detergent dispenser. 3. Place a maximum of two clean garments in washing machine. 4. Use two full caps (100mL) per garment. 5. Warm machine wash (check garment label for details). TO HANDWASH (SINK, TUB) PART ONE: Clean using Nikwax Tech Wash (NTW) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Shake NTW well before use. Pre-treat stains using NTW and a sponge or soft brush. Use 2-3 full caps (100 - 150mL) of NTW for 1-2 garments, in a tub of warm water Agitate to mix, leave to soak for 5-10 minutes then agitate thoroughly. Rinse with cold water until the water runs clean. PART TWO: Reactivate DWR using Nikwax TX Direct (NTXD) You do not have to dry your garments between these washes. 1. Shake NTXD well before use. 2. Immerse one item in 6L (1.5 gallons) of warm water. 3. Add one full cap (50mL) of NTXD. 4. Agitate to mix, leave to soak for 5-10 minutes then agitate thoroughly. 5. Rinse with cold water until the water runs clear. After washing either dry your garment in the shade outside (if it has latex seals) or by tumble drying on a warm heat (if there are no latex seals) and the garments' care instruction mention this. When garments have dried, the water repellency should be restored and the garment waterproof again. DWW 15 HEAT TREATMENT To further increase water repellency, there are a couple of ways to straighten the material fibres. As Gore-Tex is a nylon fabric, when heat is used the stray fibres melt back to the original shape promoting the fabric to become waterproof again. If you have tumble-dried your garments, then the next part will not be necessary. If you have airdried your garments then this step will further improve the water repellency of the fabric. TO IRON Steam-iron with a warm iron. Before you begin, place a towel or cloth between the garment and the iron to avoid melting the fabric. You do not need to iron the garment until it is completely dry. The heat helps to straighten the fibres and restore its waterproofness. www.nikwax.com www.gore-tex.com Tyler Fox dropping into Cherry Bomb Gorge on Upper Cherry Creek, California (Daan Jimmink) Ryan Lucas on day two of the Clavey, California (Daan Jimmink) PHOTO GALLERY GEAR TALK: Cleaning Your Gore-Tex For more information, check out the Nikwax and Gore-Tex websites. DWW 17 PHOTO GALLERY Tera Muir on the Breakfast Slide, first rapid of Upper Cherry Creek in Callifornia (Daan Jimmink) Barny Young on the Upper Hokitika, West Coast of New Zealand (Daan Jimmink) Jordy Searle on the Upper Whitcombe, West Coast of New Zealand (Daan Jimmink) DWW 19 PHOTO GALLERY Daan Jimmink on the Jedi Slides, Upper Cherry Creek in California (Jess Matheson) Pete Lodge getting air on the South Branch of the Middle Feather, California (Daan Jimmink) Taylor Cavin on day one of the Devil's Postpile on the Middle San Joaquin, California (Daan Jimmink) DWW 21
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