Mini-Guide - In Your Pocket

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3
Moscow is a thriving cultural capital
that has so much to offer visitors and
locals alike. Locals, however, will tell
you that there’s more to Moscow than
Tretyakovskaya Gallery or the Pushkin Museum. Sure, these are a must
but there are many other fascinating
museums and galleries that are definitely worth a visit but have remained
somewhat underrated.
MAP LEGEND
NIK
OLO
YAM 11
SKA
YA U
4 Art
L. on Starosadsky (D-3)
12salon
33
18 and Nemirovich-Danchenko
5 Stanislavsky
32
29
.
42
11
9
hidden museums
16
SH
LYU
ZO
VAY
AN
AB
.
PAVELETSKAYA PL.
QDonskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 02 63, www.
donskoi.org. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
Novodevichy Monastery
QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
3
12
OW
SC
MO
55
44
4
5
8
TARASA SHEVCH
ENKO
33
46
Belorussky station (A-1): Aeroexpress
to Sheremetyevo airport (SVO)
Kievsky station (A-4): Aeroexpress
to Vnukovo airport (VKO)
Paveletsky station (E-5): Aeroexpress
5
to Domodedovo
airport (DME)
1
Moscow Music Theatre (C-2)
44
6 The Gogol House (B-3)
11
7 Best Western Vega Hotel
TETE IN
SKY PER
2 & RConvention
Center (E-1)
.
14museum (B-2)
8 Shop in the
VE9 Spaseebo showroom (D-2)
R
1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER. 10KHNDon Giulio - Salumeria Formaggeria
YA
9
10
YA
Prodotti
Italiani a Mosca (B-2,
E-2)
RA
DI
11 La Scarpetta
restaurant (A-5)
SH
4
CH 15
12 NatalIa Sats
EV Children’s Music Theatre (F-6)
SK
L.
AY
13 Dacha na Pokrovke
restaurant (E-3) 13 ITSINA U
A
B.
17 B.
NA
NA
YA
YA
SKA
SKA
IAN
HE
AM
NIC
OD
TEL
SM
KO
KO
RIV
ER
24
28
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
VERK
HNY
AYA
QB-4, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.
SYRO
MYA
xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00.
TNIC
HESK
AYDonskoy
A UL
Monastery
.
AEROEXPRESS
3
30
35
39
.
19
10
Churches and Monasteries
CHKALOVSKAYA
OLE
VO P
NTSO 8
VORO
4
14
47
4
UL.
KURSKIY
VOKZAL
11
NAB.
ESKAYA
YANICH
SEREBR
.
B
A NA
OVSKAY
BERNIK
2
14
EPA
UL. ZATS 19
Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture
QB-5, Gorky Park, ul. Krymsky Val 9, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 645
05 20, www.garageccc.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Excursions in English, French, German by prior
arrangement.
MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow)
QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.
mamm-mdf.ru. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl.
Winzavod
Q4-y Siromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917
46 46, www.winzavod.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
18
3
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YANO
ZEML
2
.
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YP
IN P
SK
LYAL
EN
OS
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PO
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Modern Art Centres
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A
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R.
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VDNKh)
QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Park
open 09:00 - 21:00. Museums 11:00 - 19:00. Mon closed. Entrance park
free. Museums 0 - 300Rbl.
Gorky Park
QB-5, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 237 35 24, www.
park-gorkogo.com. Open 24hrs.
Tsaritsyno
QDolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsynomuseum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free.
Museums 30 - 300Rbl.
Church
Hotel
Museum
Theatre
ER.
YP
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22
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Gorky Park pier (B-5)
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Museums
All-Russian Decorative Art Museum
QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46,
www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 NI
ZH
200Rbl. Children till 7 years old free entrance.
NA
YA
Skryabin Museum
KR
AS
NO QB-3, Bol. Nikolopeskovsky per. 11, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 19
SE
L01,
SK www.anscriabin.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon,
AY and last Fri of the month. Admission 200Rbl.
7 5 km
Tue
AU
L.
Tretyakov
Gallery
QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62,
www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 250 - 400Rbl.
KOMSOMOLSKAYA
.
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TEATRALNAYA
4
What to see
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NEXT TO RED SQUARE
Alexandrovsky Gardens
QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
Kremlin Armoury
QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Thu.
Lenin Mausoleum
QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru.
Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sun. Entrance is free.
St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor)
QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.
saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl.
8
BARRIKADNAYA
9
The Kremlin
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of
concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the
centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day
houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles,
ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism.
There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in
Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great
people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in
the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate.
A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where
all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate
- and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time
on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin or you can
buy it online at www.kreml.ru.
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01.02 Sunday - 31.12 Thursday
Samovars of the 18th-20th centuries
Few things are as redolent of Russia as a
piping hot samovar steaming away at the
table, dispensing limitless hot water for
cups of tea. This exhibition brings many
of the highlights of the Lobanov family
collection, covering the many shapes and
sizes of samovar that have been developed over the years including the famous
‘cockerel’ design that won a gold medal
at the 1873 World Expo in Vienna. There
are also a few celebrity urns. Perhaps the most intriguing is the samovar
set that the future Tsar Nikolai II was supposed to present to the Emperor
of Japan, while other figures from Russian history including Alexander
Blok, Vera Komissarzhevskaya and Denis Davydov also feature in this extensive survey of the samovar.QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe,
5km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.
arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat - Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission park 150Rbl,
exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl.
12
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arkhangelskoe
State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe
The aristocratic estate to the northwest of the capital was home to the
Yusupov family, and Prince Nikolai was
one of the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy includes
a collection of more than 100 works
from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of
Paris saw him become the first man
to introduce the works of Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gérard to Russian
audiences. Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoye show,
which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries. The exhibition runs
until March 8, 2015.
UL. K
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Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow
Equipped with ice-breaking technology, these huge fancy yachts are the
only river cruisers running all year around. The round trip journey takes
two and a half hours and floats past all the big sights like the White House,
Novodevichy monastery and the Kremlin. There’s a large open air observation deck up top, while the main body of the ship houses a restaurant
with a dance floor for a romantic post dinner dance. For a particularly romantic experience take one of the evening boats and admire the bright
lights of the city skyline at night. Note that you can also join and depart
the cruise from the pier in Gorky Park (metro Park Kultury), although it
is advisable to check the departure times first.QA-3, Taras Shevchenko
nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.
radisson-cruise.ru. From pier hotel Ukraina boats leave: Mon - Wed
15:00, 17:00, 20:00, Thu - Fri 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, 21:00, Sat - Sun 13:00,
15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 (2,5 hrs). From pier Gorky Park boats leave:
Mon - Fri 16:00, 20:00 (2,5 hrs), Sat 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 (2,5
hrs) and Sun 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00 (2,5hrs). It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Tickets for 2,5 hrs
boat trips 900Rbl, children from 6 till 12 years old 650Rbl and children till 5
years old free of charge. Tickets for 1,5 hrs boat trips (only from pier Gorky
Park) 650 Rbl, children from 6 till 12 years old 450Rbl, children till 5 years
old free of charge. First class 2,000Rbl. PAUKW
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What to see
RK
HN
YA
YA
KR
AS
NO
SE
L
Chekhov Museum
QB-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 6, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495
691 61 54, www.goslitmuz.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon and last day of the month. Admission 50 - 150Rbl. Fourth
Fri of the month entrance free. N
Darwin Museum
QUl. Vavilova 57, MAkademicheskaya, tel. (+7) 499 783 22 53, www.
darwin.museum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon
and last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 300Rbl. PUK
Gorky Memorial Museum
QB-2, Mal. Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35,
www.imli.ru. Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the
month. Admission free. N
Institute of Russian Realist Art
QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open
11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl,
Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.
Lights of Moscow
QD-2, Armyansky per. 3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 624 73 74,
www.moscowlights.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 30 - 70Rbl. N
Nikolay Roerich Museum
QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271
34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 220Rbl. N
Sakharov Сenter
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 57/6, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 623 44 01,
www.sakharov-center.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
free.
The Central Museum of Musical Culture
QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.
glinka.museum. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 175 - 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50
- 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. TNKW
The Gogol House
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92 56, www.
domgogolya.ru. Mon, Wed and Fri 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00,
Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed on Tue and last working day of the
month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. NW
Vodka History Museum
QIzmailovskoe shosse 73 G, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 50 97,
www.vodkamuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admisson 100 - 180Rbl.
Guided tours 240 - 300Rbl depending on amount of people. Excursion
in English should be booked in advance. AK
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
€ - 0 - 400Rbl
€€ 400 - 800Rbl
€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl
€€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
Russian and Ukrainian
Cafe Chekhov
Set right next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here is inspired by the great
playwright’s era. The dining room is decorated in beautiful bright white with
art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses wear contemporary costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new Russian cuisine’, although
in our book there’s nothing Russian about pasta and ruccola. Their version
of borsch with apples in it is however a welcome innovation.QKamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafe-chekhov.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGSW
Cafe Pushkin
This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and just as popular with local
business men as passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and
famous now frequent it, but at one time it was the city’s only upper class
restaurant where you could eat European standard food. The Russian and
French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a
splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the
second floor 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PAVEGW
Odessa Mama
Drawing inspiration from the slightly raffish Ukrainian port that launched a
thousand summer holiday memories, it presents a range of childhood favorites in an atmosphere that has had crowds flocking to the large dining
hall near Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a nod to Odessa’s Jewish heritage brings
a couple of items that you won’t find in your staff canteen - the hummus,
currently Moscow’s most fashionable dish, is worth a look. If you grew up in
the USSR, this is like going back to your carefree childhood; if you didn’t it’s
maybe a bit difficult to see what the fuss is about.QD-2, Krivokolenny per.
10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.ru.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVEGSW
Bring on the Bliny
From February 23 until April 11
(Orthodox Easter) don’t be surprised if most restaurants you visit
have a special post or lent menu
for the period of fasting before
Easter. In the Russian Orthodox
Church Lenten requirements are
very strict. On the dietary front all
kinds of meat, poultry, fish, dairy
products, eggs, alcohol and most
types of oil are off the menu. So
what can you eat then? Shellfish, fruits, vegetables and grains are all
thankfully allowed, so no-one starves. However, the period before post,
known in Russia as Maslenitsa is a feeding and partying frenzy. Everyday from February 16 - 22 Russians stuff themselves with pancakes
(bliny) and a festive atmosphere generally takes over the whole city.
Typically the largest epicenter of activities is the area in and around
Red Square.
February - March 2015
Mini-Guide
Moscow
Hotels
Asian and Indian
Aozora
You know how people often tell you that once you’ve eaten sushi in Japan
you can’t really go back to eating it anywhere else? Well, what about when
you are in Moscow and find yourself in a restaurant full of Japanese people
eating sushi - must be a good sign, right? We freely admit that Aozora is located in a large hotel, but don’t let that put you off.The interior here is an
effective mix of gold leaf, samurais and steely grey, and the menu doesn’t
disappoint. As well as sashimi and sushi/rice boxes, there are great udon
soups, grilled fish, tempura and for the fat wallets - real Kobe beef.QHotel
Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 58 30,
www.aozzora.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAVW
Darbars at Starosadsky
Darbars is known for the authentic fresh Indian food which at one time could
only be found in the hotel Sputnik. Since they took over the famous and popular Maharaja restaurant, you can now find them in the centre too. The chef and
staff are the same as in the Maharaja and continue their tradition of renowned
Indian hospitality, welcoming you with a complimentary crispy papadum
starter. Follow this with a wide choice of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes all
prepared according to traditional methods, and to whatever level of spiciness
takes your fancy.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 963
757 02 90, www.darbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVGS
Where to eat
Dacha na Pokrovke
Khleb and Co
This swanky little bakery, near the Church of Christ the Saviour is just the spot to
pick up a lunch time snack, breakfast croissant or a crusty fresh loaf to go with
that soup you’re planning for dinner. The entrance way is the same door as for
Restaurant Vertinski. Service is accommodating, packaging is slick and everything
is baked according to the French bakery tradition. Also at ul. Tverskaya - Yamskaya
12/14 (metro Mayakovskaya) and Chistoprudny bul. 12/4 (metro Chistye Prudy).
QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 3, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 962 091 15 98, www.
eatout.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €€. PASW
The Dacha on Pokrovka is the
place if you are looking for
simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings.
Spread over the upper floor of
a crumbling medieval mansion
this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet
armoires, radios, telephones and
crockery of the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly
has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy
garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings.
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15 (entrance from Podkolokolny per.),
MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-na-pokrovke.
ru. Open 12:00 - 04:30. €€. PAEGSW 13
Caucasian
Noev Kovcheg
The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and even a pond of tropical fish
Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow’s finest. The venue was opened on
the 17th of the 7th month - the day when Noah’s ark is said to have ran aground.
The menu offers many classic shish kebab dishes, backed up by a plethora of fine
wines.QD-3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17,
www.noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVGSW
Saperavi
Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings.
No tacky water features here, thank you very much: instead it’s bright colours,
stylish lighting, comfy chairs and a little light house music. The menu does feature
good, solid fare like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a
very cheesy khachapuri, but also adds its own twists on things, as for example
with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They also do an great job of explaining the
ins and outs of all the exciting dishes on offer.QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya
ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 623 89 93, www.saperavicafe.com. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAVGSW
International
Deti Raika
It’s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to the conservatory and
theatres. The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki or
Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner’s favourite
film.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.
detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAEW
Funny Cabany
The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior
decor compliments the extensive barbecue and grill menu, which features
everything from homemade sausages and burgers, to succulent tender
steaks. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous portion sizes and if
you’re lucky, a visit from the resident micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny
Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg.
9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www.funnycabany.ru. Open
Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri and Sat until last guest. €€. PTAEGW
Laffa Laffa
Two branches opened almost simultaneously in October 2014, and have quickly established a reputation for elevating the humble ‘shaurma’ wrap into a culinary treat. The Middle-east themed cafes pride themselves on preparing fresh
food fast - bread is cooked to order and tender meat and fresh vegetables are
always to hand. This is definitely a spot worth checking out - and for vegetarians struggling to find reliable options in a notoriously carnivorous city, this is
definitely a spot worth checking out for its impressive array of tasty meat-free
dips as well as its veggie falafel dishes.QB-2, Mal. Bronnaya 4, MTverskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 975 55 45. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGW
Nightlife
B2 Club
One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and
ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music
imaginable in just one night - if, that is, you can manage to figure your way
around the labyrinthine interior.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEG
Bar Strelka
The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster contingent, this bar is attached to the
Strelka Design Institute. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix
from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable.
QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTALEGW
Kozlovica
Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub from the street. In
this medieval hall with carved wooden furniture, you will find no nonsense
wholesome Czech food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied
by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its
true flavour.QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495
258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
€€. PAVSW
Pilsner Paveletskaya
Already seeing almost three million people through its doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech
beer. Head chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu,
although a fine choice of other specialties and large salads are on offer as
well. Also at Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 1
(Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (Polyanka), Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul.
1905 goda).QD-5, Ozerkovskaya nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
951 86 33, www.pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW
Cafes and Bakeries
Bublik
Set in the bright surroundings of a 19th Century house on one of the city’s
most verdant boulevards, this delightful deli-style bakery is an inviting place
to sit and enjoy a coffee and a pie or a real sandwich (as opposed to the slice
of bread and salami combo that sometimes passes for sandwiches in Russia).
The staff work well and with grace, despite having to wear bizarre giant chef’s
hats, and everything is fresh. The only thing they need is more cushions for
the hard wooden chairs.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 24, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 13 42, www.ginza.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
€€. PAGSW
5
For hundreds more restaurants check out
our website www.moscow.inyourpocket.com
Krisis Zhanra
Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favourite in the centre that never seems to get old or
lose its appeal. Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent choice for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (it could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22:00. This is where the “crisis of genre”
comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day.QE-2,
Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.
kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 06:00. PENGW
MyBar
This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly
people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office
workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly
laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene.QC-2,
Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.
mybar.su. Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAEG
The Hudson Bar
This American bar brings some much needed attention to the after-work drinks
crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead
has created a bar that’s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a
gang to colonise one of the booths.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW
Club Roxbury
In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles
chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury and scope, unlike any gentlemen’s club in
Europe! Guests sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most beautiful
girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes,
arial acrobatics, and sensory overload.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 22:00 - 07:00. PAW
METRO MAP
Bulvar
Rokossovskogo
STANISLAVSKY music THEATRE
and Khovanshchina
Dating back to 1918-1919, the
Stanislavsky and NemirovichDanchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of the largest and most
successful theatres of Russia. The
opera and ballet performances
are well known to Moscow audiences, and attract more and more
international visitors. The theatre
takes part in many international
projects and is nominated every
year for the Golden Mask national theatre award. In 2013 the theatre was
even nominated in London for the opera Oscar: the first ever international
opera award for best opera theatre. The Stanislavsky theatre itself is beautifully decorated, with wide open spaces and a gorgeous museum showing
the history of the theatre, the costumes used in the performances staged
there, and the spectacular stage sets.
As if classical music lovers needed an extra reason to visit the world famous
Stanislavskiy Theater, on February 18, 19, 21 and 22 the repertoire will feature
the great opera masterpiece “Khovanshchina” of the celebrated Russian
composer - a national treasure, really – Modest Mussorgsky for the very time
in its history. Mussorgsky began composing this “national musical drama”,
as he often referred to it, at the relatively young age of 33 and never managed to complete it before his death, though he worked on it during 9 long
years. Emotions that are characteristic of youth remarkably intertwine with
the deep ponderation of a more wise and mature soul in “Khovanshchina”.
In a grandiose historical fresco, the composer enriches real historical events
and people with those he concocted himself. The aim is not only to rationalize but also to feel, live and emotionally undergo the epoch that saw one of
the greatest schisms in Russia’s history. Two of the most prominent masters
of Russian musical theater were in charge of the opera’s epic production:
Alexander Lazarev, an outstanding conductor, and Alexander Titel, one of
the Russian titans who specializes in directing historic operas.
Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow
Music Theatre
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35,
stanmus.ru. 5
NATALIA SATS children’s MUSIC
TheatrE AND Oliver twist
Once upon a time, there was little girl Natasha. Her mother was
a singer and her dad was a very
famous composer. When that little girl grew up, she set out to
present the classics in a way that
made them accessible to children.
Now, thanks to this little girl, there’s
a very special place in Moscow
for young theater lovers and that
place is The Natalia Sats Children’s
Music Theatre specializing in opera, ballet and dramatic productions for children. The world’s first professional theatre for children, it is famous worldwide as the birthplace of Sergei Prokofiev’s Peter and the Wolf.
One of the newest and most exciting additions to the repertoire is a take on
one of Charles Dickens’ most prominent works, Oliver Twist! In the musical
“The Life and Extraordinary Adventures of Oliver Twist” we will once
again meet Oliver, the charming little rascal from London and his buddies.
Beer Restaurants
11
For those who are not too familiar with the plot, the story follows an orphan, Oliver Twist, who endures a miserable existence in a workhouse and
then is placed with an undertaker. Not keen on being constrained, he soon
escapes and travels to London where he meets the Artful Dodger, leader
of a gang of juvenile pickpockets. That’s where naïvely unaware of their
unlawful activities, Oliver is led to the lair of their elderly criminal trainer
Fagin… His adventures will combine the best of Natalia Sats’ traditions
with modern day broadway and theatre trends. Alexander Tchaikovsky
was responsible for the music and children with serious theatrical training
act out the roles of Oliver and his little partners in crime. Kids and adults
alike would be missing out on first class entertainment if they don”t make
it to this production!
NatalIa Sats CHILDREN’s Music Theatre
QPr. Vernadskogo 5, MUniversitet, tel. (+7) 495 930 70 21, (+7)
965 302 27 80, www.teatr-sats.ru. 12
The Gogol HOUSE
The most famous resident to have ever
inhabited the manor on 7A Nikitskiy
Boulevard was none other than Nikolay
Vasilievich Gogol. The Gogol House is
the only place in Moscow that keeps
many momentous memories alive by
combining a research library of over
250 000 volumes, a research centre,
an exhibition hall and a memorial museum. The museum is broken up into
several rooms (his cabinet, the living room, the “Government Inspector”
room and the “Room of Remembrance”). In the library, visitors have access
to a large selection of books dedicated N.V. Gogol, psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and theology.The Gogol House also hosts a number of
events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to
Gogol’s and other prominent Russian authors’ works.QB-3, Nikitsky bul.
7 A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Mon,
Wed and Fri 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed on Tue and last day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. 6
SHOPPING
shop in the museum
Always at the lookout for Soviet souvenirs, but want
to make sure you find the genuine article? Then this
is the place for you. Here you’ll find rare items from
back when the country was hidden behind the Iron
Curtain, including stamps, postcards and posters
with popular Soviet slogans. Alongside the more
frivolous items like fridge magnets, tea spoons
and calendars, there is an impressive collection
of scholarly literature on both Russian history as a
whole, and on the museum of Contemporary Russian History itself. If you are
a professional collector, make sure to have a look at the extensive online catalogue. The shop is located inside the building of the State Central Museum
of Contemporary Russian History, which is also well worth a visit while you’re
there.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 16 95, www.
philatelist.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun, Mon. 8
Troparyovo
© Студия Артемия Лебедева
Art salon on starosadsky
Aeroexpress Trains
This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s
cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and
amber handcrafted into unique jewellery,
ornaments and decorative items by talented
local craftsmen. If you are looking to take
away an unique little piece of Russia, rather
than another item from the usual tourist
conveyor belt then look no further than
these cabinets filled with items made from
gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper,
the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something
even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the
headlines in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, pottery, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts created by
two famous Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev..QD-3,
Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.artgemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. 4
All international airports in Moscow have a fast train connection to the
capital’s city centre. All? Yes, all! Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky
Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo airport.
Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed
almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on
the company’s website where you can purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You can buy an electronic ticket from the official website
www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view train timetables.
alphabet
DON GIULIO
А
A
Ё
YO
Л
L
Т
T
Щ
SHCH
Б
B
Ж
ZH
М
M
У
U
Ы
Y
Salumeria Formaggeria
Prodotti Italiani a Mosca
This unusual little shop marks out its own
Italian territory in the unfamiliar Moscow
surroundings. The combination of the
most traditional Moscow architecture in
the centre of the city and the powerfully
beating Italian heart inside makes this little
shop a truly inimitable environment. The owner himself, Giulio Zompi,
will be happy to use his expertise of selling Italian wines to advise you
on what to drink with your fresh assortment of Italian goods. They also
opened a shop at Mal. Bronnaya ul. 22/15 (entrance via tea house Le Voyage du Thé, metro Tverskaya) and Presnenskaya nab. 10 (Moscow City,
tower B, metro Vystavochnaya). Don Giulio’s latest venture is La Scarpetta,
a restaurant that takes its Italian roots just as seriously as do the shops. It is
located on pereulok Kholzunova 9/1, just a short walk from Frunzenskaya
metro station. QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 926
666 33 70. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A 10 11
В
V
З
Z
Н
N
Ф
F
Э
E
Г
G
И
I
О
O
Х
KH
Ю
YU
Д
D
Й
Y
Р
R
Ц
TS
Я
YA
Е
E
К
K
С
S
Ш
SH
Ъ, Ь
no sound
SPASEEBO
At work, in the car, at home, on holiday, in
the club, behind the wheel, in front of the
computer - what is the one accessory that is
a must for all these activities and occasions?
Why, sunglasses of course! And where do we
get them? Why, Spaseebo of course! Here
you can choose from the largest range of
shades: Russian wooden shades Woodsun,
Woodwedo, Woodeez, as well as rare European brands like Alain Mikli, Triwa, Thierry Mugler, Oscar Magnuson and the classical Ray Bans and Vannis.
Oh and lets not forget about the snazzy Matsudas from Japan. You can order them all online. Spaseebo’s show room is centrally located near Chistye
Prudy metro station and is open from 10:00 until 20:00. Visa and Mastercard
accepted.QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 12, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7)
499 372 02 17, www.spaseebo.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A 9
Download their free mobile app and you will be able
to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at
the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly
from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master
Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay
for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).
numbers
1
adin
11
adinatsat
30
2
dva
12
dvinatsat
40
tritsat
sorok
3
tri
13
trinatsat
50
pyatdesyat
4
chetyre
14
chetyrnatsat
60
shesdesyat
5
pyat
15
pyatnatsat
70
semdesyat
6
shest
16
shesnatsat
80
vosemdesyat
7
sem
17
semnatsat
90
devyanosta
8
vosem
18
vosemnatsat
100
sto
9
devyat
19
devyatnatsat
500
pyatsot
10
desyat
20
dvatsat
1000
tysicha
useful phrases
No/Yes
Net/da
Нет/Да
Hello
Zdrastvuite
Здравствуйте
Goodbye
Dasvidaniya
До свидания
Thank you
Spasibo
Спасибо
Sorry/excuse me
Izvinite
Извините
Please
Pazhalusta
Пожалуйста
I don't understand
Ya ne panimayu
Я не понимаю
Do you speak English?
Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky?
Вы говорите по-английски?
Help!
Pomogitye!
Помогите!
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