INDIAN FARMING THE FARMER'S OWN MAGAZINE As. 12 per copy Rs. 9 per year KHETI if" HINDI COUNTERPART OF "INDIAN FARMING" As. 8 per copy Rs. 6 per year Copie8 available from The Seoretary, Indian Council of Agricultural Research, Queen Victoria Road, New Delhi·l Swan Press of Lahore, Delhi. ---------.' ,tit of II "tries of bu,,,c;.'m,~ planned bV the Indian Council of Agricultural Research to meet the pmtcity of literat1Lre in a 8impie, yet authoritative form and dealing witl£ farming and animal husbandry 8ubjects, Each of the Bulletins is 80 written a8 to give a general picture of farming practices in vogue in the country, and suggest im,p7'ovements based on re,~earc1t result,s. 1'he Bullefi1ts, it is hoped, will be found useful by tIle ju!'mer, the agrimtltural student and tIle Extension worker alike. _____. _ _ _ _ _ _ J COVER PICTURE Good-lized fruits obtained by grarting the J..:{lliplilli chiku vari~ty on khimee (Miml/,I'C)ps hl'x(l/u/ra) at tlte Fruit Research Station at Gandevi in Sural district of Bumbay State Edito r: M. 6. K M.tA. TU Marc'll 1956 Prier As. 4 No. Ii Parln Bulletin CHIKU THE i n In d i a BY SOHHAB R. GANDHI, ~L Ag. (BomhfLY) Fornwrly HOl'tieultltl'i:-.t to the Goyel'llmf'nt of Bomoa,y CONTENTS THE CHlKU TN INnCa 3-7 Olinmte-Roil-Varieti£''4 PROPAH.ATTNO 'rHI~ CHIKU Air Ja.vering- rnaI'£' h grafting-Root. stoc'k for grafting ('hiku-Gooty and gra,ft-Gooties and grafLs in IndiaSolecting a mm;ol'Y grnft-Forkert method of budding 7-20 20-21 Pr,AN'l'IXH '.rHE CHIKU CARE 0]1' THE OaCHHW MfLnurmg - Frost Intcr-cropBTl'Ilining and pruning-Treatment of bearing trees and cropping-Sched ule of ,1lUnml operations 21-27 HARVESTINt+ .AND YIELD HarveRting Cold storage Ripening-Packing - 27-29 INSECT I~ES'l'S aND DrSEASEfl 29-30 INDIAN COUNCIL OF AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH NEW DELHI r..:., -..] J....' . ",,"<'I ~ (~·:Libl.tl' r A well-looked after plant gives luscious chiku8 THE CHIKU IN INDIA T Hl~ CHIKU, also called sapodilla or sapota, is a native of Mexico in Tropical America. It is not known when it was first introduced into India. It is chiefly grown in the moist co!tstal tracts of peninsulM India, but in recent yeM's, it has been planted on !til appreciably hU'ge scale in the drier zones of the Deccall plateau, and also in the submontane tracts of North India. The chiku t,ree is a handsome, slow.growing evergreen. As an orcha"d tree in I nelia, it attains a height of about 30 feet and looks m[tjestic with its dense, rounded or pyramidal crown. The fruit is round, oval or conical ill shape, two to three inches ill diameter and almost like a smooth potato in appearance. , The skill is russet· brown, thin and scurfy. The flesh of the perfectly ripe fruit is honey-brown, soft, mellow, granular, very sweet and delicious; but when the fruit is hard and immatm'e, it is not edible as, then, it is fu ll of milky htex and tannin. or even more. The number of seeds varies from one to foul' They are hard, black, shining, flat, and about three.fo urths of an inch long, They Ct~n be easily separftted from the ripe flesh. The chiku is geneml ly eaten as fresh fruit, but it is aJso now being utilized on an increasingly large scale for prepa,ring various kinds of sweets 01' halwas. It contn,ins 12 to 14 pel' cent sugar, Climate The chilm is at its best in a strictly tropica l, humid, sea eli . mate, with a high annnal rainfall of GO to 100 inches, In India, its cultivation is at presellt limited to the states of BombltY, Bengal, Bihar, Andhra, Madras and Hyderu,bad, It is also grown 4 in Uttar Pradesh on a small scale. In Bombay State, excellent chiku plantations are found in large numbers within a short distance froIn the sea-shore in the heavy rainfall ureas of North Konkan. Though it does better near the coast than inland, it, grows v.nd fruits fairly well under a variety of wet and dry climates all over peninsular India up to an altitude of 3,000 feet. It is an evergreen tree, growing and flowering e.lmost through. out the year. Accordingly, it reqnires to be regularly irrigated during the dry season. Untimely rain or cloudy weather at any time of the yeat· ,is in 110 way harmful to the setting of fruits, but a high temperature abo.ve 110°F during the Bummer may cause dropping of blossom and scorching of fruits. When young, it is easily injured by frost in North India, but when well grown, it can withstand mild frost of a short duration. In the hot plains of North India, the chiku can be grown only under heavy irrjgation and protected from hot winds in summer and cold winds in winter. Soil The land selected for growing cbikus must be well drained. Alluvialloams on the banks of rivers, sandy Ioarus near the sea, red lateritic Boils of the heavy rainfall tracts, two to three feet deep, medium black soils overlying rnurum substrata such as are found in the Deccan plateau and deep, alluvial, loamy soils of the Indo-Gangetic plain are all suitable for growing chikus. The chiku is a shallow-rooted tree. The minimulll depth of soil in the hilly regions in which fairly good results can be expected, is two feet. In selecting the soil, the subsoil aloo has to be taken into account. The chUm will not thrive in It soil with a subsoil of hard rock or of limy, yellow sticky clay. Soils oontaining a very high percentage of lime are not suitable as they cause loss of gteep matter of the leaves and the plants die within 5 a few years of planting, Similarly, ill-drained, fine textured clay soils are unsuitable for growing chikus. Varieties The number of chiku varieties grown in India is very small. A dessert chiku of good eating quality should possess a pleasant, sweet taste and good flavour. It should have as few seeds aR possibl!'l' The pulp should be abundant, mellow and melting. Thick-skinned, hard-fleshed varieties with a sandy, insipid taste are conRid('recl inferior and, therefore, should never be given a place in commercial orchards. On the West Coast of Bombay State, there are about half a dozen varieties under cultivation, hut only two of these are of good quality and are cultivated all a sufficiently large scale. 'rhe others are slowly going out of cultivation. Kalip(ttti is the leading variety of Bombay. It has dark green leaves, spreading branches and oval.shaped fruits of excellent quality, The flesh of the fruit is mellow, sweet and mildly fragrant. It contains one or two seeds. The second best variety of Bombay is Ohatl'i, so called after its habit of bearing distinct umbrella,·like whorls of branches which show off the central stem (shaft) in distinct contrast to the closely set whorls of Kalipatti which very nearly hide the centl'HI shaft. The leaves of Ohatri are of light green colour and the fruit which is very similar to that of i{alipatti ill a,ppearance is slightly less sweet. Though a fairly good cropper, it does not bear heavily as Kalipatti. I:lO The well known varieties of South India are O?'icket-ball, DlI'arapudi, Bangalore, Vavivalasa, Kil·tabarti, J onnavalasa and Pala. 0I'ic1cet·ball is a large-sized, round variety, having granular flesh of moderate sweetness, It is said to proclllce better quality fruits at elevations below 1,000 feet and under a relatively arid 6 Dwm'apudi much resembles Oriclcet·ball but 'is smaller in size. Bangalore and ValJivalasu · are oval varieties. Chiefly grown in the Circars, Kirtabarti is also a popular variety of Andhra. Jonnavalasa is popular near Vizianagaram and bears roundish fruits of small to . medium size. Pala is also a popular variety of Andhra and Madras. It produces small, roundish to oval fruits of good flavour. climate. B(lramasi is a popular variety of Bengal, Bihar and Uttar Pradesh and has roundish fruits. The name Baramasi which means 'ever bearing', is being exploited by Some nurserymen to mean that this is the only all-the· year· round cropping variety ill India. This, however, is not a fact. Really speaking, all chiku varieties are by nature, all.the.year·round croppers as explained later in this bulletin. Notwithstanding the distinction made by growers between the different, chiku varieties, the fruit trade in India has not yet recognized any variety under a standard trade name for sale in Oval and round fruits of the Kaiipatli variety 7 the market. Whatever the variety, its fruit is sold as chiku ana not by its varietal name. At the most, it is called either a 'long' or 'round' variety after its shape. In most nurserymen's catalogues also, no named varieties are fOIlIld to be listed except that they are called 'long' and 'round' varieties. The terms 'long' and 'round' used by nurserymen for naming ch iku varieties are, however, not sufficiently intelligible, as severa l varieties may have an oval or long sbape and similarly several others may be round. There are instances of varieties like Kalipatti and Chat1'i in which long (oval) and mund fruits are simultaneously produced on one and the same tree. Season also influences the shupe of the fruit. It is observed that fruits maturing during the monsoon are generally oval in shape and those produced during the cold and hot seasons are mostly roundish. The growers are, therefore, advised not to p lace much reliance on such terms as 'long' and 'round'; they should buy plants from nurserymen of repute who can guarantee the kind and quality of the variety. PROPAGATING THE CHIKU THE CHIKU is not usually propagated ft'Otn Beed as the plant so propagated grows very slowly, takes maIlY years to fruit and does not inherit the true characteristics of the parent tree. It is, therefore, commercially propagated by vegetative methods such as air layering and inarch-gl'n,fting. Air layering is a popular method of propagating the chilm in West Iu(lil1. In other parts of India, inarch grafting is genel'ally practiRed. A.ir layering This method of layering is known as gooty layering in India. It consists in rooting a branch while it is still attached to the 8 parent tree. When the branch has produced enough roots, it is separated from the parent as an independent plant. The operation is as follows. Select a healthy, mature, terminal branch of the tree which is desired to be propagated. The branch should be about two years old, l-~ to 2 feet in length and 1- inch in thickness. It should have plenty of dark green leaves. Remove a ring or girdle of bark completely around the stem at the base of the branch to a length of about one inch, with a sharp knife. Cover the exposed wood and one inch of the bark above and below the l'ing with a ball of moist garden soil. Bind it over securely with a bandage of gunny cloth and keep it continuously moist by sprinkling water on it daily. As a result of ringing, the margin of the bark above the ring swells due to the formation of a healing tissue called callus. Hoots push out from the callus and fill up the ball of soil in course of time. A branch thus rooted is called a gooty layer. An ingenious method of securing a continuous supply of moisture without much trouble is that in which an earthen pot containing water is suspended over the gooty. From a tiny hole in the bottom of the pot issues a. string which has a knot tied at one end of it. The other end of the string is drawn through the hole till the knot is brought down to fall upon and close up the hole. The string is then carried on at full stretch and coiled round the ball of the gooty. By this means, the water from the pot oozes out slowly, triokles down the string and distributes itself over the ball. A layered branoh takes about two months to form callui! and another three months to produce roots. For successful rooting, a continuous supply of ~ater to the ball of the gooty is essential. When the roots are seen protruding through the bandage in large numbers and have turned from white to brown in colour, the · . ,.~ ' .: j' , :j/ A 13 c A. Ring of bark removed. The dotted oval shows the ball oCmolst clay applied over the operated part. The margin of the hark above x swells and gives oul roots B. The bandaged gooty is kept continuously moist. The gooty will be detached at the dotted line below the ball C. The pot is filled and the gooty layer transplanted branch may be severed from the parent tree by cutting it below the bandage. The severing of the branch must be gradual. This is done by cutting a small notoh in the branoh below the bandage and deepening it every seoond day. sever the gooty completely. A fortnight will suffice to The best time for gooty layering is March or April when the sap is actively rising in the branches. With the setting in of the south-west monsoon in June or July, the roots will begin to s~rike and by the middle of September when there is still some rainfall, the gooty will become ready for detaching from the parent tree. After detaching the gooty layer from the parent, it should be immediately planted in a deep earthen pot which is slightly bigger than the ball of the gooty, 10 It is not wise to layer a branch bigger than two feet in length, as the roots produced by the gooty am not enough to Hustain and nourish a bigger head. :-)l1ch goo ties with huge tops wither away and die soon after potting. III preparing a pot to receive the gooty, the first thing to do is to bore a drainage hole in its bottom and then to put broken pieces of hrickbats in it for drainage. Over the brickbats is placed a small qua.ntity of dry leaves, and finally three-fourths of the depth of the pot is filled up, at the time of planting the gooty, with compost (mixture of soil and manure) made out of equal p~1rts of garden soil (loam I and well rotted farmyard mfl,l1me. Soils containing a large amount of clay a,re not suitable for potting, hut silt dug out from the river bank is admirable for this purpose. While planting, the gooty is held erect with i~s ball placed in the centre of the pot.. Great care should be taken to press the soil gently around the ball so as not to break the brittle roots that protrude from the bandage. The cloth of the hand age rots and mixes with the soil of the pot in course of time. The potted gooty should be tied with and supported by stakes, so that it may not shake and become loose at the root. Gooties after potting are usually kept under partial shade and watered daily till the beginning of the following monsoon when they are sold away. Before ordering gooties from nurserymen, growers are advised to ascertain that the goo ties have been hardened jn the nursery for at least six months and are not more than two feet height. It is not uncommon to find unscrupulous nurserymen selling freshly potted gooties of a huge size to growers who are not usually conversant with the nursery practices. Such plants often collapse in the plant package itself during railway transit or die soon after planting in Lhe orchard. it; Air layerin(J is made quicker and much le88 e.vpeW3ive by 11 Icrappill(I the ball oj the (Jootll with 1I'afel'-prooj 1)()l}er' in~tead of (/unny cloth. The method of gooty layering described in the foregoing paragraphs is slow, time-consuming and expen1'live, as the layered branch roots very slowly and, therefore, requires to be watered for a long period of four to five months. A quicker and much cheaper way of rooting the layered branch has recently been found in the United States of America. The special feature of this method is that the after-watering of the ball of the gooty is E'ntirely dispensed with. This llew method consists in using a transparent water-proof film-paper for holding and wrapping of the soil· hall of the gooty instead of the conventional piece of gunny cloth. The film holds the wet soil- ball and conserves all the original moisture therein till the roots strike. The striking of roots is also highly accelerated and the layered branch becomes ready for separation from the mother tree within a short period of four to eight weeks. One su('h film called 'Alkathene' made and marketed in India by the Imperial Chemical Industries has been used very succe8Sfully on a commercial scale for layering at the I{,oyal AgriHorticultural Society's garden at Calcutta. The method employed in this garden for wrapping and tying the film consists in first surrounding the wet soil· ball of the gooty with a thin byer of moistened !phal5n.!!,W.-l!!,Q§1:l and then wrapping it round with [1 piece of the film measuring 9 inches X !) inehes. Finally. the two ends of the bandage are securely tied by meallS of a string. The roots emerging from the soil-btl'!l are unahle to pierce through the tough film-paper, but they can distinctly be aeen through the transparent film. It is necessary to provide shade to the gooty, as the film has a tendency to crack if exposed to the sun for a long time. When a. sufficient quantity of roots is seen 12 to have struck witllin the film, the gooty may be detached from the parent tree aUlI planted iu an earthen pot. While planting the gooty, it is essential to remove the HIm as it does not easily rot and does not allow the roots to break through it as the gunny cloth does in the indigenous method. There are various guages of the 'Alkathene' film, ranging from HlO to 700. and it has been found that the guages 200, 250 amI :300 are of sufficient thickness for making layers of most of the soft as well as hard.wooded ornamental plants at the Royal Agri.Horticultural ~ocicty's garden at Calcutta. It is. also found that by llsing this fUm, the litchi which is known to be one of the difficult among fruit trees to layer, roots within four weeks in the climatic conditions obtaining at Calcutta. A similar film of a foreign manufacture has bem used for layering the litchi with equal success at the Pruit Research Station, Saharanpur. In view of the experience at Calcutta with various kinds of trees, there remains nttle doubt that the 'Alkathene' film would be equally useful for layering the chiku also ill the shortest time possihle. 'I.'he 'Alkathene' film retail price is Rs. 5·4 per pound of the 300.guage yards and is sufficient f01' is sold in roll!; by weight and the CUl'rent pound fo), all guages and widths. One film, 72 inches wide, measures 72 square layering as many as 124 branches. Inarch grafting A branch of the chiku tree (~cion) which is dei-dred to be pro· pagated is united with the stem of another young plant (stock) of the same family, When both have united with one another, the scion branch is detached from its parent and the top of the stock above the union is (lut off. The new plant thus prepared by uniting the stock and scion is called the graft. 13 The stock plants are grown from seed in earthen pots for about a year and when of proper size are elevated on a scaffolding to meet the scion branches. The scion branch selected for grafting should be about two feet in length, and stems of both th(' stoek and scion must be of equal thickness at the place whe~e they are to be united. An inarch-Iraft The scion branch is brought close to the stem of the stock and at the point of contact a thin slice of bark and wood is removed from each by means of a sharp knife. The slice may be two inches long, 1 to ! inch broad and about -l'"2 inch deep. 'fhe cut surfacE's which should be absolutely flat should fi t on each other so that the union may be perfect. The cut surfaces should immediately be tied together tightly, first with a flat tape and then with a string, and finally covered with grafting clay or wax. It takes nearly ~onths for the stock and scion to unite. After they have united, the scion branch is severed from ihl parent tree by cutting it through below the graft.joint. The severance of the scion is effected slowly. 14 Ph'st, a shallow cut is made. '1'he cut is deepened after about a week and the scion completely severed after another fortnight. The original top of the stock above the graft-joint is then removed. Grafts thus prepared are taken to the nursery and nursed there for about six months before they are sold to growers. Any growths produced by the stock below the graft. joint should be promptly removed during the time the graft is maintained in the nursery. Root-stock for grafting chiku The root-stocks generally used by nurserymen for grafting the l'hiku are not necessarily chUm seedlings, but they are mOt'e usually seedlings of other plants such as khirnee (Jfiml£8o)J,~ hezandra) and mohwa (Bassia longifolia) which also belong to the same botanical family (Snpotaceae) as the chiku, It is necessary, therefore, that growers get themselves acquainted with khirnel' and mohwa trees as well, ]{hirnee is a fruit tree growing wild in Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Madhya Bharat, Andhra and West Bengal. The fruit of khirnee which ripens in the hot season (May-June) is about the size and shape of a small grape, bright yellow and sweet with one or two large, black seeds. When immature, the fruit contains latex and is not edible, but on ripening, the latex disappears and it becomes edible. The kMrnee is called rayan in Gujarati. For raising root-stocks, fresh seeds are collected and sown in low, flat beds in the beginning of the monsoon. After one year, in the following monsoon when the seedlings attain the height of about It feet, they are (larefully lifted with moist soil attaohed to their roots and individually transplanted in small earthen pots. Four months later, when these seedlings are properly established ill pots, they are inarched with chiku branohes as explained elsewhere. 15 J.1Iohwa is a forest tree of the wet zones of South India. It bears non-edible fruits with large seeds. Nut'serymen in the South lIse it as root-stock for grafting chiku, as it can very easily be grown from seed. The seedlings attain the height and thickness for grafting much quicker than those of khirnee. There is another species of rnohwa (Ba.s8ia latifolia) found growing wild in North Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Madhya Bharat, It is a huge forest tree the fruits of which are non. edible, but its fleshy flowers which very much resemble green grapes, are extremely sweet and edible. It is from these flowers that country liquor is made. This tree is called mohwa in Gujarati. It is possible to graft chiku on this tree, but as it is a slow gl'Ower, it is not commercially nsed as a root-stock for grafting chiku in any part of India. Gooty and graft Before buying either a gooty or a graft, it is necessary that the grower should have some knowledge about the structural differences between these two kinds of plants offered ,for sale by nurserymen, as both differ greatly from each other in their capacity to adapt themselves to different soils and climdtes. The gooty is one whole plant of homogeneous structure, having its own stem and roots. As such, it directly draws its food from the soil. The graft, on the other hand, is made up of two distinct plants-stock and scion. In the graft, the scion is entirely dependent for its nourishment on the roots of the stock. The root. stock absorbs water and nutrients from the soil and passes them on to the scion via the graft-joint. The Rucoess of a grafted plant depends much upon the natural affinity between the stock and scion to unite' closely with each other and their capacity to grow harmoniously and co-exist in equal partnership. Both the stock and scion must grow equally thick at the graft. joint. 16 Failure to do so by one is soon reflected in the functions of thE' oLher and ultimately, the grafted tree becomes unproductive and dies an early death. The kind of root-stock used in grafting chiku also plays an important part in moulding the entire life of the scion. The three kinds of root-stocks-chiku, khirnee and mohwa, used for grafting chilm, have differdnt types of root systems, and they, therefore, differ from one another greatly in their habit and capacity to utilize water and nutrients from the soil. The chilm scions grafted OIl each of these root-stocks must naturally vary from one another in their vigour of growth. Briefly stated, the type of root-stock influences the vigour of the scion in a striking manner. Vigour in turn indirectly influences the quality and size of fruit, yield, size of the tree top, hardiness to heat, cold and drought, and resistance to cHseases. From what has been said about the structural differences between gooty and graft, it will appcar that out of the two, the gooty is a simpler and safer plant for planting, as it does not involve any dependence on another plant for its existence. In fact, there is no justification in planting a graft 80 long as the gooty produces abundant fruit of good quality; but there are different soil and clhnatic conditions in wh ich the chiku standing on its own roots as in gooty may not thrive. In such circumRtances, it has to be grafted on a suitable root-stock which helps the scion to acclimatize in an otherwise difficult em'ironment. Gooties and grafts in India Before we discuss the observations made on goo ties and grafts planted in different parts of India, it would be interesting to have some knowledge of their root systems. The gooty is a very shallow-rooted tree, the majority of its roots concentrating in the top one foot to 1~ feet of soil. On the other hand, the roots of the graft (on lckirnee) mostly concentrate between the second 17 awl third foot from the ground surface. This shows that whereas the gooty would thrive in hoth deep and shallow soils, the gmft (oulcltirnee) would require at least three feet deep soil for a BUCCHS· fill growth. In the coastal parts of Bombay State, in North KOllkall ~Ln(l "';outh Guju,rat (annual rainfall 60 to 70 inches from .June to Reptember), the gooty find the graft on khirne{3 both seem to thrive equally well in the deep loams a.n(1 clay Ioams ; hut in the H!Tht sandy Ioams within a mile or two of the sea-shore, the '" , gooty grows much more luxuriantly I111c1 fruits more heavily t,han the graft on khirnee. The fruit of the gooty iH also repol'ted to be sweeter and possessing a mellower pulp. Tn fact, H5 per cent orelHtrds in these coastal regions ~tl'e planted with gooties and some of them are over 30 yea!'!! t.ive as ever. ill age al1(1 still a.re ftS healthy and produc. Though grafting on khirnee I1nd on chiku root-stocks has been experimentally praetised by a few growers on the West Coast for long, the planting of grafts on It commercial scale seoms to have begun as recently as 15 years ago. These grafts plante!l ItS they are in heavier soils, are rellOI'tcd to fruit as heavily as the gooties, and in an oxperiment at Ganrlevi, the grafts on lcltil'tMf' ltl'C even reported to benI' more heavily than the gooties. In an experiment at the Gn.ueshkhil1d Fruit Experimont Htation, Pooua, situated ill the dry and light rainfall tI'ILct of the Bombay -Deccan (altitucle ] ,800 feet; annual rainfall 20 to 25 inches from ,June to September; soil medium black, cllty loam, two feet deep with a slight admixture of lime nodules), it was observed that the gooty made fairly vigorous growth Imd fruited well, whereas the graft on khirnee, though as vigorous as the !:(ooty in the first two years of planting, tended to develop It disease called chlorosis (loss of green matter from leaves) in the later years, 18 particularly on patches of land with calcareous subsoil which contains large quantities of lime. Such plants die within It year of contracting the disease. In the same experiment, the graft on chiku root· stock though found slower in growth than the gooty in the first two years, beca.me as fruitful as the gooty in the later years. In the Telingana tract of Hyderabad-Deccan in the shallow chalk(t soil (derived from granite rock) which becomE'S extremely hard on drying, grafts on kltirnee root,-stock mude poor growth and did not bear much fruit. At Kodur (Al1dhra), the grafts on khirnee were found to grow and fruit better than the grafts on either of the two species of mohwa (Bassia longifolia and Bassia lat~folia). In the light rainfall tract and deep loamy soil of North Gujarat, the grafts on khirnee are reported to give higher yields than the gooties and the grafts on chiku root-stock. In an experiment in the equatorial climate and lateritic soil of Ceylon, the grafts on chiku root-stock were found to be the best and the grafts on khirnee were nearly as good, but the grafts on mohwa (Bassia lon,qifolia) failed to make good growth, as the root-stock grew faster and thicker than the scion and made a seedling below the graft-joint. These observations would be of interest to growers in the southernmost parts of India where the dima.tic conditions are very similar to those of Ceylon. From the experience of grower>! and the experimental .evidence noted above, the following recommendations are made: 1. The gooty can be safely planted in the moist coastal regions as well as in the inland dry areas of peninsular India. It will thrive in light sandy loams and also in heavier loams ,Qr olay loams. Being shallow-rooted, it will adapt itself well all .oYer the Deccan plateau, provided the soil depth is not less than ,tw;.o £e.et. 19 lchirnee is fairly good for planting in the moist coastaJ l'egionA ns well as the dry inland areas, provided the soil i::; at least three feet in depth. It thrives better in decp Ioama, clay loams or deep lateritic soils. Avoid sandy soils, ;;hallow, rocky soils and soils with calCal'eOml subsoils. 2. The graft 011 :.L The grl1ft on the chiku root-stock will be almost as productive as the gooty in the moist coastal as well as the dry inland tracts, But such grafts are not commercially prepared by nurserymen probably due to the paucity of seeds of chilm fruits and the slow growth of chilm seedlings in the nursel'Y. The graft on rnohwu (Bussin long'ifolia or Bassi(l latifolia) is not suittLble for planting in any region of India, Production of sueh grafts by nurserymen should be stopped. Selecting a nursery graft At the time of purchasing a chiku graft from a nurseryman, the grower should see that (1) the graft has both its scion !tnd Iltock stems of equal thickness, (2) the scion is growing straight with plenty of healthy lea,ves, (3) the union between the stock and acion has perfectly healed so as not to present (my hollow or unfilled space between the two stems, (4) the union is made at least, six inches above the root-collar of the stock and not lower, (5) the string or tape has not deeply cut into the tissues of the graft-joint, (6) the Lop of the fltock above the union has been removed, and (7) tIH-l graft has been really made from a gennine ::;C'ion tree of a reputed variety. Forkert method of budding A cheaper, easier a.nd more efficient method of propagation called the l!'orkert method of budding which hIts been snccessfully adopted for the mango at the Ganeshkhind .~'ruit Experiment Station, Poolla, can also be recommended for budding the chilw. '1'he chiku in Ceylon is successfully budcle(l on khirnee by this method and there is every possibility of this method being 20 successfully adopted all over the coastal regions of India where the climate is moist and rainfall heavy, For details of the operation of budding, the reader is advised to refer to the Farm Bulletin No. 0 entitled "The Mango in India", PLANTING THE CHIKU RIOR to the plan bing of the trees, the field should be deeply A strong wind-break of tall-growing trees should also be planted on the !:louth-west side of the orchard as a protection against violent winds blowing in the summer and monsoon seasons. Oasuarina equi.setifolia is the best plant for planting as a wind-break on the Wesb Coast and all over South India. Similarly, Dalbel'gia SiS800 (sMsltam) is most suitable for North India. P ploughed, harrowed and levelled. The best time for planting is the beginning of the monsoon. The trees should be planted 30 feet apart in heavy rainfall tracts and 25 feet apart in dry zones. Pits two feet wiele and two feet deep may be dug and filled with topsoil mixed in equal proportion with well rotted farmyard manure. If it is not raining and the ground is hard, it is necessary that the pits are irrigated three days before planting and the planting done when the soil becomes workable. Since the chiku plants are sold in earthen pots, it is necessary at the time of planting to remove the root- ball carefully by breaking the pot. The undisturbed plant with its unbroken root-ball as taken out in its entirety from the pot is then placed in the centre of the pit by excavating as much soil as is necessary to accommodate the root-ball. While planting, ib is essential to press the soil well around the root-ball of the plant. After planting, the young tree must be supported by means 21 of a stake and kept erect. Gooties in particular are heavily branched at the start and are, therefore, more apt to lodge unless supported. Make a small basin of about two feet radius around the tree and wll,ter it copiously immediately after plant. ing. A well balanced chiku tree (gooty layer) properly planted and staked If the tree is a graft, take care to keep the graft-joint well above the ground level while plant. ing, and to remove growths, if any, from the root·stock below the graft-joint. The tape and string should be removed from the graft. joint at the time of planting the graft. CARE OF THE ORCHARD T HE after-care of young chiku trees consists in watering them regularly during the dry season, hand.digging the basins occasionally and manuring once in a year. The basins around the trees should be enlarged as the trees get older. They should be kept a little bigger than the spread of the largest branches. The trees will not require wa.tering in 22 periods of heavy rainfall, but during long breaks in the monsoon and in winter and summer, they will have to be watered at intervals of six to twelve days according to the severity of weather. Due to repeated irrigations, the soil in the basins is likely to get packed and overgrown with weeds. It is necessary, therefore, to remove weeds occasionally and dig the soil of the basins after every third irrigation. Manuring The trees should be manured annually, preferably at the end of the south-west monSQon in the heavy rainfall tracts of penin. sular India. In the dry zones of the Deccan and also in North India, the beginning of the monsoon is the right time for manuring. A year· old tree may be given 50 pounds of farmyard manure and one pound of ca8tor cake. From the second year onwards, the above quantities should be increased by ten pounds and onf! pound respeotively, tl.nnually, up to the end of the nInth yea.r. From the tenth year onwards, the adult dose of manure mixture to be given per tree would be 100 pounds farmyard manure, 15 pounds castor cake and five pounds bonemeal. The mltnure should be spread evenly and uniformly in the basins and deeply dug in the case of gooty trees which are surface. / rooted. In the case of grafts which feed in the deeper layers of the soil, the manure is best applied in a circular trench two to three feet wide and six to nine inches deep under the inner fringes of the tree's canopy. The trees should be watered immediately after manuring. From the seventh year onwards, the trees bear heavily and, therefore, they should be manured twice in a year as suggested in the schedule of annual operations (see pages 26.27). Frost Young chiku trees in North India are liable to be killed by 23 frost in winter. It is, therefore, necessary to cover the young plants during the winter on top and three sides with a thatching, keeping the south·east side open for light and sunshine. Such a cover is quite effective in saving the young plants from being killed by frost. Inter-crops During the first 10 years when the trees are young, ,much of the orchard land between the rows of trees will remain unoccupied. Inter.crops of vegetables can profitably be taken in this space if facilities for extra irrigation are available. Training snd pruning Few cultivated fruit trees in the tropics are perhaps so grace. The tree naturally develops ful in form as the evergreen chiku. a smooth central stem with radiating whorls of horizontally disposed branches produced at more or less regular intervals. These main branches carry an array of short branchlets which bear fruits terminally and also give out vegetative shoots from their sides. The fruiting branchlets as well as the vegetative shoots are so abundantly produced and 80 judioiously spaced on the tree by nature, and the shape of the crown is so uniform and well balanced all around, that little is left for the human hand to correot the habit of the tree by pruning. No pruning whatsoever is needed for at least a period of seven to ten years after planting, except for the removal of stock growth, if any, below the graft union, should the plant happen to be 11 graft. The chiku by nature is a slow and sparse grower, and there should be no undue haste in pruning off any growth till all the main branches growing in whorls have sufficient time to compete with and outgrow each other. The chiku tree puts forth branches very near the ground During the first few especia.lly if it happens to be a gooty layer. years, these basal branches are very helpful in thickening the 24 A horizontally disposed main branch with its subsidiaries carrying a well spaced array of fruit branchlets (above) and (below) a fruit-bearing branchlet of cbiku 25 t:entral stem; but as the tree advances in age, branches of the basal whorls at times weigh down almost to ground level and final. ly become unfruitful, as they are eclipsed and shaded by the upper whorls which are more vigorous-growing. In these circumstan· ces, when the tree has developed a sufficiently big size with a numser of well established whorls, the basal branches touching the ground may be removed and the crown of the tree may with advantage be raised to three or four feet above ground. A greater height than this is not desirable as it may make the tree top heavy and susceptible to wind injury. FrameWOfk of an 8·year old cbiku tree showing lVell balanced whorls of brancbes. The two basal whorls wbich have been eclipsed sbould be removed Treatment of bearing trees and cropping The chiku, propagated either by layering or grafting, begins to bear small crops from the second or the third year after planting, but it begins to bear substantial crops from 26 its seventh year. It is from the seventh year, therefore, that it requires to be given special cultural treatment. The chiku takes four months from flowering to mature its fruit. It blossoms continuously in several flushes at short intervals throughout the year, and, consequently, the fruits set by these flushes also mature at different times. It is, therefore, possible to harvest a small crop of matllre fruits from a tree once every week, but it is observed that in spite of these continuous small croppings there are two main cropping seasons when largel' or'ops are obtained. On the West Ooast near ''Sombay. the two main blossoming seasons are October-November and February-March, and the two corresponding harvesting seasons are January-February and May-.Tune. 'M(-.",. .. ,. Schedule of annual operations The following schedule of annual operations is recommended as an ai.d to successfut cropping of chiku in West India, Growers in other parts of India may modify the programme of cultural operations to suit their own seasons of blossoming and fruiting. 1. At the end of the south-west monsoon in October and after harvesting the monsoon crop, plough the uncovered space of the orchard in-between the rows of trees and dig the ground underneath the canopy of trees. 2. Examine the trunks for steo}i borers and the branches for red ant nests, mealy bUgR and leaf miners and destroy these insects (see pages 29.30) 3. j\iake suitable irrigation beds which should be as large as the spread of branches. 4. In November, manure the trees individually in the basins as recommended on page 22. 6. After manuring, give the first two irrigations in quirk suo· 27 l'ession at an interval of three days. Then irrigate at intervals of eight to twelve days throughout the winter. fJ. After harvesting the winter crop in February, dig the bedA and luallure the trees once again with the adult dose of manure (see page 22). 7. Water the trees soon after manuring and irrigate them at intervals of five to seven days during the hot weather. (The interval of watering should be ttdjusted according to the type of soil and the severity of weather.) S. After harvesting the summer crop in MaY-tJune, keep the orchard free of weeds during the rains. Irrigation may not, be necessary during the monsoon in heavy rainfall tracts, but in light rainfall areas, it lllay be given once in a while during long breaks in the rains. Y. Tn young orchards where there is wiele open space inhetween the tree rows and if it is intended to take cold weather inter-crops, sow sl1nnhemp in .June and bury it as green manure in the beginning or in the middle of August. In South India, the t,wo main harvesting seasons are February to .Tune ancI September to October. Here, the trees may be manured once in the beginning of the south· west monsoon in June or July and for a second time in the beginning of the north-east mOnsoon ill November. In North and East India, the best time for the two manuring operations would be February-March and .June-July, respectively. HARVESTING AND YIELD HE Cl:IIKU, be it a gra.ft or a layer, begins to bear small crops from the second year after planting, hut it is from the fourth or fifth year that it yields subst.antialc rops. On the West Coast T 28 near Bornhay, it yields about 250 fruitll fler tree in the fifth year. In the seventh year. the yield rises to 800 fruits and between the 10th amI 1iith yea!', it may range from 1.500 to 2,000 fruits. In the 80th year, whieh if! considered the prime of Its life, the tree can be 'fhese yield figure~ expected to yield 2,500 to 3,000 fruits. represent the aggrf'gate yields of several pickings done throughout the year. After the 40th year, the yield usually decliIles, and it may not IL plantation economically thereafter, though individual trees in favourable soil and climatic colltlitiollS may live for iiJ years or more and ma,y still hear l>Iaiisfactory ('ropi5, 1)(,' profitable to maintain Harvesting }!'ruits as they mat,ure have to be inclivid ually picked hy hand with t,h('ir "talks at,taehed. Even in one and the same cluster, some fruits are more advanced in maturity than others. The chiku fruit is said to he perfectly mature and ready for picking when it begins to fIrop the brown scurf f!'0111 its skin. A perfectly mature fruit with all its scurf off' the skin presents a dull, orange eolouI' in contrast to the potato hrown of the immatml'e fruit. Immature fruits give a green streak if scratched with finger nails, whel'e[Ls mature fruits give a yellow streak. Mature fruits should not be allowed to ripen on the tree as they would either drop down or may be spoiled by crows and parrot:,;. Mature fruits should be picked with their stalks when still hard and green. Ripening Fruits ripen and soften within five days after pi{'king, if kept in H basket at ordinary air temperature in a warm ruom. During storage, the milliY latex altogether disappears and the fruit becomes sweet and edible. The chiku fruit keeps in good condition for seven to eight days from the date of picking. 29 Packing If the fruits m'(' to be seni. to (liRtant markf'tR by rail, they >.houln be parked immpdiately after picking wilrn they are still hard, in bamboo baflketH. ltice straw 01' any kind of soft gmss is goocl for padding around the fruits in bhe package. The fruits should be grarled ill different flizes and each gI'ltcle sepf1rately packed in a bamboo basket of tIl(' requircc1 si7.e. fruits shonld be separll tt·Iy pa('ke(l, Oval and !'ound Cold storage If it is (lesired to kepp t.lle fruits longer and sell them la.ter, they should he stored in eold storage. The cold store iR an insula led house ill which cooling is efTe('terl by a process ('ailed ammonia.-brine drculatiol1 syfltem. Tn the cold Atore, (liffercnt rooms with difi't'rcnL temperutureA arc providerl to store different kinds of pel'ishlLhle fruHs and vegetables. Such cold storage fMilities are generally availahle in fL number of lEu'ger citiefl Unripe hard uhikll fruits can be mllcie to l'ip('Jl slowly und satisfactorily between 52° and 56°F, At tb('sc temperatures, they can be stored in good condition for about live weeks, If it is desired to preserve ripe fruits they should be kept in cold storage between 32° and 35°F. At these temprratnl'es, ripe frllitfl keep in good conrlition for nl10nt six wrel;:s. INSECT PESTS AND DISEASES THE OHIKU is remarkahly free from the ('ommon insert pestR, and diseases which usually nttack other kinds of fruit. tr('(·s. Leaf miner, mealy bug and stem borer are Rometimf's srell in neglected plantations. Lpn! miner. It is an extremely tiny (,l1terpiIlnl' of It greyish 30 moth. It mines into the surfaC>8 of young chiku leaves and makes them curl. The attacked leaves show glistening, irregular galleries or mines on the leaf surface with often the tiny caterpillar inAide them, Tlw infertr(l leaves grt distorted, dry up and fall. Jlf m/ll bug. This iA a Rmall, ovaJ, sncking insect with It cottony white, waxy (lovering on its body. Mealy bugs are found sticking to the undersirle of chUm leaves and base of the fruit near the [mit stalk. They suck the sap of the tree heavily and spcrete a large quantit.y of sugaJ'y substance over whieh n, black fungus called 'sooty mould' develops. The fungus pauses a black coating on the letLVes and gives them a sickly appearance. ...... ...... For both lraf miner anc1 mealy hug, spray ni('otinf' slllphn,t,e mixed with we\tahJ€' DDT. Mix one poun<1 nicotine sulphate (40 per cent). foul' pounds soap and four pounds 50 per cent wettable DD1' in 80 gallons of WI~ter. Give two Qt' three sprayings at an intt'l'val of three w{'eks if the attack persists. Always keep the plantation free of red ants as they are greatly responsible for distrihuting m€'aly bugs from one i,ree to another. Red antR may be killed by dusting tt mixture of 'GitlnmeXltne' D.025 (five pel' cent BRC) with sulphur in the proportion of 2:1. Stem borer. This is a stout grub of a beetle. It, bores into the bark of the trunk in circular galleries and fec(ls l1pon the living tissue of the inner bark. The prer;eDf'e of the insect can be detected from the chewed bark thrown out of a halo in the trunk. The borer can he traced by eutting the dean bark along the hollow t.unnels with a stout knife, or it ('nn be killed by thrusting a stiff wire into the tunnel. Where the borer has entererl the wood and consequently cannot be traced, the hole may be plugged with It wad of cotton wool dipped in kerosene and plastered with wet mud. The borer will get suffocated and die within the tree. OTHER BULLETINS IN THE SERIES RICE CULTIVATION IN INDIA As. 4 GROUNDNUT CULTIVATION IN INOlA As. ONION AND GARLIC CULTIVATION IN INDIA As. 4 GOAT-KEEPING FOR PROFIT A~. 4 COTTON CULTIVATION IN INDIA As. 4 THE MANGO IN INDIA As. 4 MANURES AND MANURING As. ~ POTATO CULTIVATION IN INDrA As. 4 CASflEWNUT CULTIVATION IN INDIA As 4 TOBACCO CULTlVA nON IN INOlA As. 4 Under preparation GRAPE CULTURE IN INDIA BEE-KEEPING FOR. REGINNERS FISH CULTURE SHEEP FARMING If you like to be kept informed of the,e puhlications as and when they are out, please write to : 1'he Secretary INDIAN COUNCIL OF AGRICULTUHAL RESEARCH Queen Victoria Rona NEW DELHI.l I5SUED EVERY MONTH INDIAN FARMING THE F R E R S' 0 WN As. 12 per copy MAS A Z I N E Rs. 9 per year K H ET I THE HINDI MAGAZINE THAT STANDS FOR BETTER FARMING As. 8 per copy Rs. 6 per year DHART I-KE.. LAL TilE JOURNAL THAT BRINGS TO YOU IMPROVED FARMING METHODS IN SIMPLE EASY-TO-READ HINDI Oopie3 avaUable from The Secretary. Indian Council of Agricultural Resea.rch, Queen Victoria Road, New Delhi-l swan Press of Lahore, Delhi.
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